Gwen Dress
Sewing Pattern
By: Cayden Naughton
Size in
clusiv
Adjustable fit! e!
View A View B View C
#GwenDressPattern
@Cayden.Naughton
Pattern information
The Gwen Dress features an adjustable, fitted bodice,
with elastic in the back and corset style ties in both the
front and back. There is no zipper needed for this dress.
This is an Intermediate pattern due to its many steps,
pattern pieces, and exposed bias finishes. I do feel an
adventurous beginner could accomplish this pattern well if
familiar with bias tape or willing to learn and take their time
with it. Back view
View A View B View C
Video Tutorial
Here is the link to a video where I walk you through each
step of constructing this dress!
https://youtu.be/Z8NK9_zik4w
2
Notions etc.
Main fabric 3-5.3 Yards depending on size and
view.
Lining fabric 0.6 Yards.
3/4" double fold bias tape (1.5" strips) 8-15 Yards
depending on size and view.
1-2 Yards of 0.25" elastic depending on size.
Small safety pin.
Optional trims like lace, ribbon, piping, etc...
*This pattern was drafted for woven fabrics.
3
Fabric
Linen
Recommendations
Upcycle a bedsheet
Cotton Lawn
Upcycle a quilt top
Quilting Cotton
Upcycle a tablecloth
Cotton Shirting
Patchwork your fabric
Rayon
scraps
Viscose
For lightweight fabrics like rayon, I recommend lining with something stronger like
cotton to hold integrity on the bodice.
Also, note that thicker fabrics may add bulk to the bias bound seam finishings.
Note the endless fabric matching, clashing, or complimenting opportunities here!
A sol Vi
View e with View B id b ew C
p ia
bi as ta ric prin s tape
d Patchworked plaids ted
soli ted
fab fab
wit
h
p ri n ric
4
Intended Fit
Keep in mind: While this page explains the patterns intended fit,
there are many different body shapes and personal preferences
that play into your specific desired fit. Keep this in mind for any
adjustments you may prefer.
View C The Gwen Dress is wide across
the shoulders with a low
scooping neckline.
The waistline falls at the
natural, or bend of your,
waist
The sleeves should end 1"
(2.5cm) above your wrist
This long length dress should
fall just above your ankles
5
Sizing Information
This garment is designed with an adjustable back and front
featuring corset-style ties and elastic in the back. This
makes getting the perfect fit more simple even with
inevitable body fluctuations! Please do note that even with
the adjustable feature, this is still a fitted bodice. I do
recommend making a toile first.
Please consider the following before making any
adjustments:
This Pattern was drafted on a 5ft 9in person with a longer
torso.
The hem of this dress is designed to be just above your
ankles. Both the dress and sleeve length can be adjusted
simply from the bottom of the pattern piece due to the
squared hem.
This Pattern was drafted for a chest to bust difference of
2". Meaning the fullest part of the bust is 2" larger than the
measurement at the chest (being the area right under your
armpits). If bust adjustments are needed, I recommend
this YouTube tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=km3-4QmPrlY
Note the seam allowance is 3/8" (1cm)
If a bust adjustment is needed, take your chest
measurement (under your armpits, above your bust) and
adding 2", then find that measurement in the “Body
Measurements” section under “Bust”. Use that size for your
Full Bust Adjustment.
6
Size Chart
Note the “Bust” measurement refers to your full bust. For this pattern the chest, or
upper bust, measurement is 2" smaller than the “Bust” (full bust) measurement.
Body Measurements Inches
Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust 29.5 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 38.5 40 41.5 43 44.5 46 47.5 49 50.5 52 53.5 55 56.5 58 59.5 61 62.5 64
Waist 21.5 23 25.5 27 28.5 30 31.5 33 34.5 36 37.5 39 40.5 42 43.5 45 46.5 48 49.5 51 52.5 54 55.5 57
Hips 31.5 33 34.5 36 37.5 39 40.5 42 43.5 45 46.5 48 49.5 51 52.5 54 55.5 57 58.5 60 61.5 63 64.5 66
Body Measurements Centimeters
Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust 75 79 82.5 86 90 94 98 101 105 109 113 117 120 124 128 132 136 140 143 147 151 155 159 162
Waist 55 58 65 68.5 72 76.2 80 84 88 91 95 99 103 107 110 114 118 122 126 129 133 137 141 145
Hip 80 84 87 91 95 99 103 106 110 114 118 122 126 130 133 137 141 145 149 152 156 160 164 168
Note the additional ease in these finished garment measurements provides the ability
to put the dress on over your head without needing a zipper. These finished
measurements are taken when the dress is NOT cinched up with the ties or elastic.
Finished Garment Measurements Inches
Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust 35 36 37 38 40 41 43 44 45 47 48 49 51 52 53 55 56 57 59 60 61 63 64 65
Waist 32 34 35 36 38 39 40 42 43 44 45 47 48 49 50 52 53 54 56 58 59 60 61 63
Hip 61 62 63 64 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 85 86 87
Bodice
16 16 16 17 17 17 17 18 18 18 18 19 19 19 20 20 20 20 21 21 21 22 22 22
Length
For all sizes, the skirt length is 39" and the sleeve length
taken from the underarm to the hem is 17"
Finished Garment Measurements Centimeters
Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust 89 91 94 97 102 104 109 112 114 119 122 124 130 132 135 140 142 145 150 152 155 160 163 165
Waist 81 86 89 91 97 99 102 107 109 112 114 119 122 124 127 132 135 137 142 147 150 152 155 160
Hip 155 157 160 163 168 170 173 175 178 180 183 185 191 193 196 198 201 203 206 208 211 216 218 221
Bodice
41 41 41 43 43 43 43 46 46 46 46 48 48 48 51 51 51 51 53 53 53 56 56 56
Length
For all sizes, the skirt length is 99cm and the sleeve
length taken from the underarm to the hem is 43cm
7
Print at home
Open in Adobe
Acrobat Reader and
print at 100% scale.
Start by printing just
the first page to
make sure the
measurement squares
are accurate!
VIEW A: 1-7, 10-44
VIEW B: 1-7, 10-59
VIEW C: All pages
8
A0 Printing
Be sure to check the
measurement square to
confirm accuracy!
The sleeve and ruffle
need to be attached
using the alignment
triangles.
9
Pattern piece inventory
1. Center Front - Cut 1 main fabric
2. Middle Front - Cut 2 mirrored main and lining fabric
3. Side Front - Cut 2 mirrored main and lining fabric
4. Side Back - Cut 2 mirrored main and lining fabric
5. Center Back - Cut 1 main fabric
6. Sleeve - View B + C - Cut 2 mirrored main fabric
7. Peplum - View C - Cut 1 on the fold main fabric
8. Dress Front and back - Cut 2 on the fold main fabric
9. Skirt Ruffle - Cut 2 on the fold main fabric
10. Pockets - Cut 4 mirrored main or lining fabric
10
Fabric Requirement + Cutting Layout
VIEW A 54" wide MAIN fabric flat (no fold)
Size 0-6
3 Yards
Size 7-15
3.5 Yards
Size 16-23
3.8 Yards
Note that these layouts do not account for fabric shrinkage, although I do
recommend prewashing your fabric.
11
Fabric Requirement + Cutting Layout
VIEW B + C 54" wide MAIN fabric flat (no fold)
Size 0-6
3.4 Yards
Size 7-15
4.2 Yards
Size 16-23
5.3 Yards
Note that these layouts do not account for fabric shrinkage, although I do
recommend prewashing your fabric.
12
Fabric Requirement + Cutting Layout
ALL VIEWS LINING 54" wide fabric flat (no fold)
All Sizes
0.6 Yards
8-15 Yards bias tape
OR
0.8 Yards 54" wide fabric
Note that these layouts do not account for fabric shrinkage, although I do
recommend prewashing your fabric.
13
YouTube Sew along: https://youtu.be/Z8NK9_zik4w
Making Bias Tape
There are many ways to make bias tape, but this is my
favorite for when you need lots!
1. using the full width of your
fabric, cut a square.
Right side Wrong side
2. Fold your square
in half right sides
together, making a
triangle, and cut
along the fold
3. Rotate the top edge (of
your top triangle only) to the
left once and sew with a 0.25"
(0.6cm) seam allowance
14
YouTube Sew along: https://youtu.be/Z8NK9_zik4w
RS WS
Making Bias Tape Cont.
4. Open your triangles and
press the seam open.
Starting from your bias
edge, draw lines 1.5"
(3.8cm) apart.
5. Fold your fabric
right sides together,
staggering your lines
once.
6. Sew with a 0.25" (0.6cm) seam
allowance.
7. Following the line you marked, cut
out your extra long continuous bias
tape!
8. Fold Your bias
tape in towards
the center wrong
sides together,
and then again in
half to create The youtube video linked below is very helpful for a
double fold bias real life visual and more details on using this method.
tape. Just note that we are doing 1.5" lines, not 2.5" and
you will need a lot more bias tape than she makes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxvQZEttQK8
Skip to 1:12 to jump right in!
15
YouTube Sew along: https://youtu.be/Z8NK9_zik4w
Instructions
Seam Allowance is already included
in the pattern pieces and is 3/8"
(1cm) unless noted otherwise.
Right side Wrong side
Step 1
Start by taking your Center Front (1) and Center Back
(5) and pressing them in half with wrong sides together
along the fold line. Set center front piece aside.
Step 2
On the center back, draw parallel lines across
connecting the notches on either side.
Use chalk, water
soluable ink, air
soluable ink, or
something similar to
create these markings.
16
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 3
With wrong side of your center back still together, sew
along the lines you drew in the previous step.
Step 4
Insert your elastic through the 0.5" (1.3cm) channels.
Be sure to sew the elastic in place on the edges with a
0.25" (0.6cm) seam allowance. Set center back piece
aside. Size 0, 1, 2, 3
5.5" elastic sections
Size 4, 5, 6, 7
6" elastic sections
Size 8, 9, 10, 11
6.5" elastic sections
Size 12, 13, 14, 15
7" elastic sections
Size 16, 17, 18, 19
7.5" elastic sections
Size 20, 21, 22, 23
8" elastic sections
17
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 5
Place middle front (2) and side front (3) right sides
together matching the notch. Sew. Repeat for both sides
and lining pieces. Press all seams open
Step 6
Place side back (4) onto side front (3) with right sides
together matching the top and bottom corner of the
sides. Sew. Repeat for both sides and lining pieces. Press
all seams open.
18
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 7
Match your straps right sides together and sew. Repeat
for the other side and lining pieces. Press all seams
open.
Step 8
Place your bodice main and lining fabric wrong sides
together. Match the edges and seams. Sew around the
edges with a 0.25" (0.6cm) seam allowance. Repeat for
other side.
Lining fabric key
RS WS
19
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 9
Take your center front(1) and place it on the middle
front(2) lining side. Be sure the folded edge of center
front is pointing up towards the straps, not down
towards the waist. Match the bottom edges and sew to
the top of center front. Repeat for the other side.
Lining fabric key
This may feel weird,
but we want RS WS
exposed seams to
bias bind on the
right side!
Step 10
Place center back (5) on the lining side of side back (4).
Be sure the fold of center back is pointing up towards
the straps, not down towards the waist. Match the
Bottom edges and sew to the top of center back.
Repeat for the other side.
Adjust your elastic
gathers to the middle of
center back for an easier
time sewing this seam.
20
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 11
Unfold your bias tape and place it right side to the
bottom of center front and pin or clip in place all the
way over the shoulder and to the other side of the
bodice. Sew in the fold of the bias tape. Repeat for the
other side. Trim the seam allowance to 0.25" (0.6cm).
Bias tape fabric key
RS WS
Step 12
Fold your bias tape over the trimmed raw edge and pin or
clip in place enclosing the raw edge of center
front/side front and center back/side back seams as
well as the raw edge of the bias tape. Sew close to the
folded edge of the bias tape all the way over the
shoulder and to the other side of the bodice. Repeat for
the other side.
Bias tape fabric key
RS WS
21
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 13
Count the amount of back elastic channels you have and
multiply by 4. That is how many loops you will need.
Multiply by 2" (5cm) for how much bias tape you will
need to create the loops. Create loops by taking your
double fold bias tape and sewing close to the folded
edge. Then cut 2" (5cm) sections until you have
enough.
Step 14
Fold the sections in half and space evenly on each side
of the center front and on each side of the center back
where there is an elastic channel. Position loops with raw
edge of the loop touching the edge of the bias tape
stitching line like illustrated below. Tack in place. Fold
the finished bias tape over the raw edges of the loops
(onto the center front and center back pieces) and sew
the bias tape down in place close to the folded edge of
the bias tape.
View A skip to step 22
View B skip to step 18
For the Center front loops, I
like to place one just below
the top folded edge, and one
0.5" above the bottom raw
edge of the center front
piece. Then space the rest
evenly between those two.
22
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 15 View C
Take your sleeve (6) and draw a straight line connecting
the notches on the wrong side of the fabric. Repeat for
the other side.
Use chalk, water
soluable ink, air
soluable ink, or
something similar to
draw this line.
Step 16 View C
Take your double fold bias tape and open it up so that
only the two edges are folded in. Place the center of
the bias tape on the center of the line you drew in the
previous step, wrong sides together, and pin in place.
Sew close to the folded edge on both sides. Repeat for
the other sleeve.
Bias tape fabric key
RS WS
23
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 17 View C
Wrap your elastic around your wrist at your desired length.
Add seam allowance and cut two. Insert your elastic
through the channel and sew it in place on both sides with a
0.25" (0.6cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Step 18 View B + C
Sew two lines of gathering stitches where the wavy line is
between the sleeve notches. Leave long thread tails to
gather the sleeve in a later step. Repeat for the other
sleeve.
24
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 19 View B +C
Fold your sleeve right sides together and sew the
underarm seam. Finish the raw edge with a serger, zig zag
stitch or bias tape. Press seam to back. Repeat for the
other sleeve.
Step 20 View B+C
Pull on the bobbin threads to gather the sleeve until it
fits in the armscye. Tie knots in the threads and
distribute gathers evenly. Repeat for the other sleeve.
25
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 21 View B+C
Place your sleeve wrong side to bodice lining side.
Matching the side seam to the underarm seam. Sew.
Repeat for the other side.
Bias tape fabric key
Step 22 All Views
Take your double fold bias RS WS
tape, unfold one edge and
place the right side of the
bias tape to the lining (View
A) or to the right side of
the sleeve (View B + C).
Fold the beginning 0.375"
(1cm) to the wrong side.
Sew all the way around the
armhole in the fold of the
bias tape. Trim the seam
allowance to 0.25" (0.6cm).
Repeat for the other side.
26
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 23
Fold the bias tape around the trimmed raw edge of the
armhole, enclosing the raw edge with the bias tape. Sew
next to the folded edge of the bias tape. Press towards
the sleeve. Repeat for the other side.
Bias tape fabric key
RS WS
Step 24
Place your pockets onto the dress front with right
sides together, matching the top corners. Sew the
pockets onto the skirt. Finish the pocket seam using a
serger, zig zag stitch or bias tape. Press the seam
towards the pocket.Repeat for other side and both sides
of the dress back.
27
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 25
Place your front and back pieces right sides together.
Sew around the pocket curves and down the side to the
bottom of the skirt panel. Finish the side with a serger,
zig zag stitch or bias tape. Repeat for the other side.
Step 26
Sew 2 rows of basting stitches across the front skirt
from one pocket to the other. Repeat for the back from
the pocket to the notch on both sides of the back piece.
28
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 27
Pull the bobbin threads until the front skirt matches the
bodice front from side seam to side seam and the back
skirt matches the back of the bodice from side seam to
notch aligning with the side back/center back seam. Tie
the threads and distribute gathers evenly.
Step 28
Fold the pocket to the wrong side of front skirt and pin
or baste in place along the top edge. The pockets may
overlap in the center, or have a gap. This is size
dependent and expected!
29
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 29
Place the skirt right side out and bodice wrong side
(lining side) out. Slide the bodice upside down into the
skirt so that wrong sides are together. Match up the
bodice and skirt waist at the side seams, center front,
and back skirt notches to side back/center back seams.
Sew the skirt and bodice together, stretching the
center back bodice elastic as you go. Lining fabric key
RS WS
View A + B skip
to step 32
Step 30 View C
Take your double fold bias tape and unfold one side.
Place the bias tape right side to the peplum (7) wrong
side matching the edge of your bias tape with the raw
edge of the curved peplum side. Sew in the fold of the
bias tape all the way around the raw edge of the peplum.
Trim the seam allowance to 0.25" (0.6cm). Fold the bias
tape around the trimmed raw edge to the right side of
the peplum and sew close to the folded edge, enclosing
all raw edges.
Bias tape fabric key
RS WS
30
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 31 View C
Place the peplum wrong side to the right side of the
skirt, lining up the bias edge of the peplum to the bias
edge of the center front/side front bodice. Match the
raw edge of the peplum to the raw edge of the waist
seam (leave the bodice inside of the skirt) and sew the
peplum to the skirt using your previous stitching line .
Step 32 All Views
Take your double fold bias tape and unfold one side.
Place the bias tape right side to the bodice right side,
matching the edge of your bias tape with the raw edge
of the waist seam we have just sewn. Fold the beginning
0.375" (1cm) of the bias tape to the wrong side. Sew in
the fold of the bias tape all the way around the seam.
Trim the seam allowance to 0.25" (0.6cm)
Bias tape fabric key
RS WS
31
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 33
Fold the bias tape around the trimmed raw edge to
enclose it and sew close to the folded edge of the bias
tape. Press up.
Bias tape fabric key
RS WS
Step 34
place your skirt ruffles (12) right sides together and
sew. Finish the raw edge and press to back. Piece ruffle
together as needed.
32
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 35
Sew two basting stitches around the top of the skirt
ruffle and pull the bobbin threads to gather until it fits
in the bottom of the dress. Knot the threads and
distribute gathers evenly.
Step 36
place your
skirt ruffle
with the
bottom of
your dress
wrong
sides
together
and sew.
33
Seam Allowance is already included in the pattern
pieces and is 3/8" (1cm) unless noted otherwise.
RS WS
Step 37
Take your double fold bias tape and unfold one edge.
Place the right side of your bias tape to the right side of
the dress matching the raw edge of the seam we have
just sewn. Fold the beginning 0.375" (1cm) of the bias
tape to the wrong side. Sew the bias tape in the fold.
Trim the seam allowance to 0.25" (0.6cm).
Bias tape fabric key
RS WS
Step 38
Fold the bias tape over the trimmed raw edge and onto the
skirt ruffle. Sew close to the folded edge of the bias tape
enclosing all raw edges. Press binding up. Bias tape fabric key
RS WS
34
Step 39
Fold the bottom of your dress up 0.5" (1.3cm) twice and
sew close to the folded edge. View C repeat for the
sleeves.
Step 40 View B
Fold the bottom of your sleeve up 0.5" (1.3cm) twice
and sew close to the folded edge, leaving a gap. Wrap
your elastic around your wrist at your desired length.
Add seam allowance and cut two. Insert your elastic
through the channel. Sew your ends together and sew
the gap closed. Repeat for the other sleeve.
35
Step 41
To determine your front and back tie length I like to
thread the dress with my double fold bias tape and pull
the bodice completely loose to be sure the ties will not
slip out of the loops. Trim at that length and take the
bias tape out. Then sew your double fold bias tape shut
and use it to lace up your dress front and back. Knot
the ends, and give your Gwen Dress a final press!
y !
Ya
36
You’re finished!
I would love to see your make! If you plan to share on
social media, please consider tagging me
@Cayden.Naughton and using the hashtag!
#GwenDressPattern
#GwenDressPattern
@Cayden.Naughton
37
