DRESS

MILANA

SIZES
34-52

DIFFICULTY

INTERMEDIATE
 FROM THE FOUNDER
OF THE #VIKISEWS BRAND

Back in 2016, when I was working on my first

sewing instructions, I was trying to write them
in such a way that even a complete beginner
would be able to understand and create their
first garment. These instructions laid the foundation
of the Vikisews brand, its vision and mission. I
wanted to create modern patterns with the most
detailed and clear instructions.

With each new collection, we’re constantly

improving our instructions: adding more details,
removing redundancies. Before they reach you,
our drafters, correctors, and editors spend weeks
working on every word and every photograph. If
you put a few instructions together, you’ll get a
sewing manual that will assist you in sewing all
kinds of garments of any difficulty level.

And I’ll be very happy if these instructions help

you to grow a small hobby into a lifelong passion.
Enjoy the process. Create your ideal and effective
wardrobe. Wear your garments with pride and
for years to come.

If you have any questions, do write to us at

info@vikisews.com. We’ll always help you.

02
 MILANA PATTERN DESCRIPTION
Milana is a close fitting dress with an accentuated waist. The shaping on the
top front is achieved with bust and waist darts, as well as a center seam. The
front features a seam situated 5cm above the natural waist, and the back bodice
is shortened and is composed of two sections which tie together to form a bow
with long tails. The back skirt is not attached to the back bodice and has a
curved elasticated gathered waistline. Both the front and the back have a V
neckline with flounces. The flounces are at their widest around the shoulder
seams, and taper to their narrowest at the center front and back. The bottom
of the dress also features a flounce. Milana is above-knee length.

03
 IMPORTANT!

The contents of this pattern are copyright protected and belong exclusively
to VikiSews. You may use VikiSews patterns for personal use. It is prohibited
to share VikiSews patterns and instructions with third parties, as well as to
publish patterns and instructions online for public access. You may use VikiSews
patterns for commercial use, to sew custom-made garments and/or create
garment collections, on the condition that the patterns are solely used in a
manufacturing setting and are not further shared with individuals.

04
TOTAL EASE ALLOWANCE
Bust ease (diff. for Waistline ease (diff. for Hipline ease, cm
each size), cm each size), cm

1.3-3.8 14.8-17.6 9.5-13.6

GARMENT LENGTH
Height, cm Garment length at the back from
waist down (diff. for each size), cm

1 (154-160) 41.8-46.3
2 (162-168) 44.8-49.3
3 (170-176) 47.8-52.3
4 (178-184) 50.8-55.3

SUGGESTED FABRIC
To sew this dress, choose woven fabrics with the following properties:
• Lightweight to medium weight, structured, non-stretch
• The fiber content can include natural fibers (silk, cotton, linen), artificial (viscose), blends (cotton +
viscose, etc), and synthetic (polyester)
• The following fabrics are recommended: sateen, poplin, linen, eyelet, opaque cotton shirting, batiste
For the lining, we recommend the following materials: cotton shirting, poplin, batiste.

The dress on the photo is made in 100% cotton eyelet fabric. This fabric is medium weight and has no
stretch. The lining is shirting fabric, the fiber content is 100% cotton.

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 FABRIC AND NOTIONS REQUIREMENTS
1. Main fabric, 140cm wide, in meters

Size
Height, cm
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

1 (154-160) 1.64 1.67 1.77 1.79 1.82 1.86 2.1 2.17 2.18 2.25
2 (162-168) 1.67 1.69 1.77 1.79 1.82 1.87 2.1 2.17 2.25 2.28
3 (170-176) 1.7 1.72 1.79 1.83 1.88 1.91 2.15 2.17 2.29 2.32
4 (178-184) 1.7 1.73 1.83 1.87 1.92 1.97 2.22 2.22 2.35 2.38

2. Lining fabric, 140cm wide, in meters

Размер
Рост, см
34-38 40 42-46 48 50 52

1 (154-160) 0.71 0.71 0.81 0.95 1.02 1.05

2 (162-168) 0.75 0.78 0.86 0.98 1.04 1.08
3 (170-176) 0.78 0.83 0.93 1 1.06 1.11
4 (178-184) 0.82 0.89 0.99 1.03 1.08 1.15

IMPORTANT! When purchasing fabric, please account for

shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.

3. 1cm wide elastic, in cm

Size 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

Yardage 29 31 32 34 35 37 40 41 43 44

4. Matching thread, 5 spools (1 spool for the sewing machine and 4 spools for the overlocker)

06
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
• Sewing machine for construction
• Overlocker for finishing raw edges. This may be replaced with a stretch overlock stitch or a zigzag stitch
on the sewing machine (overlock or zigzag stitch width 2-3mm, stitch length 2.5mm)
• Bodkin for threading elastic through a channel (may be replaced with a safety pin)
• Stitch-in-the-ditch foot for your sewing machine (optional)

PATTERN PIECES LIST

1. From main fabric: 2. From lining:
• Front bodice – cut 2 • Front bodice - cut 2
• Back bodice - cut 2 • Back bodice - cut 2
• Front skirt - cut 1 • Front skirt - cut 1
• Back skirt - cut 1 • Back skirt - cut 1
• Front neckline flounce - cut 2 • Armscye bias binding - cut 2
• Back neckline flounce - cut 2
• Front skirt flounce - cut 1 Additionally, cut binding strips from the lining fabric
• Back skirt flounce - cut 1 for binding the skirt side seams and the flounce
• Back tie - cut 2 seam allowances. The binding strips are cut on the
crosswise grain.

IMPORTANT! Don’t forget to transfer all

pattern markings and notches onto the
fabric.

SEAM ALLOWANCES
All pattern pieces include 1cm seam allowances. Take this into
account when laying out pattern pieces on the fabric.

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Main fabric, 140cm wide, cut in one layer, Main fabric, 140cm wide, cut in one layer,
for sizes 34-36 in all heights, with a non- for sizes 38-44 in all heights, with a non-
directional print directional print

Selvedge Selvedge

Selvedge Selvedge

Main fabric, 140cm wide, cut in one layer, for sizes 46-48 in all heights, with a non-directional print

Selvedge

Selvedge

Main fabric, 140cm wide, cut in one layer, for sizes 50-52 in all heights, with a non-directional print

Selvedge

Selvedge
08
Lining fabric, 140cm wide, cut in one layer, Lining fabric, 140cm wide, cut in one layer,
for size 34 in all heights, with a non- for sizes 36-40 in all heights, with a non-
directional print directional print

Selvedge Selvedge

Selvedge Selvedge

Lining fabric, 140cm wide, cut in one layer, Lining fabric, 140cm wide, cut in one layer,
for sizes 42-46 in all heights, with a non- for sizes 48-52 in all heights, with a non-
directional print directional print

Selvedge Selvedge

Selvedge Selvedge

READY? LET’S GET SEWING!

09
 FIRST GARMENT FITTING

We recommend doing a first fitting for any garment.

For what purpose? The first fitting is done with the goal of checking the balance of the garment (this is how a
garment hangs on the body; the vertical seams should be straight and perpendicular to the floor, and the horizontal
seams should be straight and parallel to the floor), correction of volumes (only to reduce the volume and in case you
didn’t make a muslin and didn’t make any pattern modifications prior to cutting fabric), correction of garment length,
checking of the neckline depth and shape.

How? We recommend basting the darts and the main construction seams (side, shoulder, and center front seams).
Assemble and attach the ties and the flounces.

To ensure a well-fitting garment, it’s important to properly assemble it for the first fitting, so pay attention to the
notches during construction. When you pin pieces together, pin first at the notches, then at the ends and between the
notches, making sure the fabric is laying smoothly.

To baste the garment, use either a long straight machine stitch (stitch length 4-5mm) or baste by hand (stitch length
approximately 1cm). For hand basting, it’s important to have the pieces lay on a straight flat surface (table) without any
parts hanging off the surface.
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 Important! In situations where the needle leaves marks in the fabric (leather, suede, nylon, silk, etc.), in order to
check the fit and evaluate possible issues, we recommend making a muslin first! In this case, you won’t need to do
fittings, unless it’s done solely to evaluate the garment length. We recommend testing on a scrap piece of fabric first to
see whether your chosen material is prone to be marked by needles.

During basting, if it so happens that one piece is longer than the other, don’t rush to true them by cutting the excess
or stretching the shorter piece. First make sure that the notches are properly matched, lay the pieces on a flat surface
and try to re-baste the pieces together. If the pieces still don’t match in length, for example if one stretched or if there
was a mistake during cutting, then the truing can be done after the first fitting, during construction of the garment.

After assembly, seams should be lightly pressed flat, then pressed to one side.

What to look for during fitting?

Verify the balance of the garment – the side seams must be vertical, the shoulder seam must lie on the natural
shoulder line.

Evaluate the side view of the front and back of the garment (look at yourself sideways in the mirror). The front and
back should not sag or ride up. There shouldn’t be any horizontal wrinkles across the back, nor any tension across the
shoulder blades and shoulders.

Evaluate the side seams from the front or back. The sides should not sag or ride up.

Verify the garment length.

Check for fit issues associated with individual features of the body (for example, an asymmetrical figure with
shoulder at different levels, etc.)

Verify garment volume, there should be enough ease and it should feel comfortable.

After the fitting, mark changes symmetrically to both sides of the garment; if needed, baste once more and do
another fitting.

On the wrong side of the front bodice piece,

pin the bust and waist darts, baste, and stitch
them on the machine. Backstitch at the beginning
and tie knots at the end of the stitching line, then
hide thread tails inside the dart bulk.

11
 Press the waist darts flat.

Press the darts towards the center front.

Press the bust darts flat.

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 Press the darts up towards the armscye.

Trim the bust dart intake, leaving a 1cm seam

allowance.

Press and steam around the dart apex to shrink

away excess fabric.

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 Place the front and back bodice pieces right
sides together and align the shoulder edges. Pin,
baste, and stitch on the machine. Backstitch at the
beginning and end.

Press the seam flat.

Press the seam allowances open.

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 Place the front and back neckline flounce pieces
right sides together and align the shoulder edges.
Pin, baste, and stitch on the sewing machine.
Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Place the front and back skirt flounce pieces

right sides together and align the side edges. Pin,
baste, and stitch on the sewing machine.
Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Press the seams flat.

15
 Press the seam allowances open.

Turn each side of the seam allowance inwards

by 5mm and press.

Stitch the seam allowance edges to the flounces

at 1-2mm from the free edge. Backstitch at the
beginning and end.

16
 Press.

Fold and press the flounces bottom edges to the

wrong side by 5mm.

Stitch on the sewing machine at 3mm from the

edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

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 Press.

Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching

line.

Fold the flounce hem once more to the wrong

side, pin, baste, and stitch on the sewing machine
at 2mm from the free edge. Backstitch at the
beginning and end.

18
 Press.

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the

top edge of the flounces. The stitching lines must
be at 5mm and 1cm from the edge, with a stitch
length of 4-5mm, without backstitches.

Pull on the bobbin threads on the neckline

flounces and spread the gathers evenly.

19
 Place the neckline flounce wrong side down to the right side of the front and back bodice. Align the
flounce’s raw edge with the neckline and the center back and front edges. Match notches, pin, and baste.

Try on the bodice and ensure the gathers are

evenly spread. If needed, redistribute the gathers.
Stitch the flounce on the sewing machine.
Backstitch at the beginning and end.

20
 Press the seams.

Place the front bodice pieces right sides

together and align the center edges. Pin and
baste, stopping the stitches 1cm before the
neckline edges.

Place the front and back bodice pieces right

sides together and align the side edges. Pin and
baste. Stitch the basted centre front and side
edges on the machine. Stop the stitching on the
center front at 1cm below the neckline edges.
Backstitch at the beginning and end.

21
Press the center front seam flat.

Press the seam allowances open.

Press the side seams flat.

22
 Press the seam allowances open.

Fold the back tie pieces in half right sides

together. Align the edges, pin, baste, and stitch on
the machine. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Press the seam.

23
 Trim the seam allowances down to 5mm and clip
the corners.

Turn the ties right side out, straighten the edges,

push out the corners, and baste around the
perimeter.

Press the ties.

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 Topstitch around the perimeter of the ties at
5mm from the edge. Backstitch at the beginning
and end.

Press the ties well.

Place the back ties to the right side of the back

bodice, 1cm above the bottom edge of the bodice
pieces. The seam on the ties must be on the
bottom.
Pin the ties, baste, and stitch on the machine.
Backstitch at the beginning and end.

25
 Press the seam.

To prepare the binding strips for the skirt pieces,

cut 2.5cm wide strips on the crosswise grain.
Place the binding strips right sides together with
the front and back skirt pieces, aligning with the
side edges.
Pin the binding, baste, and stitch on the machine
at 5mm from the edge.

Backstitch at the beginning and end.

26
Press.

Press the seam allowances towards the binding.

Trim the seam allowances down to 3mm.

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 Fold the binding around the seam allowances
while turning the raw edge to the inside, and
press.

Baste the binding’s free edge and then machine

stitch at 1-2mm from the seam.

Press.

28
 Place the front and back skirt pieces right sides
together and align the sides. Pin, baste, and stitch
on the machine, stopping 1cm short of the top
edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Press the seams flat.

Press the seam allowances open.

29
 Gather the top edge of the skirt flounce and
spread the gathers evenly.

Place the assembled skirt and skirt flounce

pieces right sides together. Align the bottom skirt
edge with the top flounce edge. Match all notches,
pin, baste, and stitch the flounce to the skirt.
Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Press the seam.

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 If your binding strip isn’t long enough to cover
the length of the seam, stitch binding strips right
sides together. Press the seams flat and then
press the seam allowances open.

Place the binding strip right side down to the

wrong side of the flounce seam. Fold the binding
end to its wrong side by 1cm.

Cover the first end of the binding with the

second end.

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 Pin, baste, and machine stitch the binding at
5mm from the edge. Backstitch at the beginning
and end.

Press the seam.

Press the seam allowances towards the binding.

32
 Fold the binding around the seam allowances
while turning the raw edge to the inside, and
press.

Baste the binding’s free edge and then machine

stitch at 1-2mm from the seam.

Press.

33
 Press the seam allowances towards the skirt.

Topstitch the seam allowances to the skirt at

5mm from the seam.

On the wrong side of the front bodice lining, pin,

baste, and machine stitch the bust and waist
darts. Backstitch at the beginning and tie knots at
the end of the stitching line, then hide the thread
tails inside the dart bulk.

34
Press the waist dart flat.

Press the dart towards the center front.

Press the bust dart flat.

35
 Press the dart up towards the armscye.

Trim the bust dart intake, leaving a 1cm seam

allowance.

Place the front bodice lining pieces right sides

together and align the center front edges. Pin,
baste, and stitch on the machine, stopping 1cm
short of the neckline edges. Backstitch at the
beginning and end.

36
 Place the front and back bodice lining pieces
right sides together and align the shoulder and
side seams. Pin, baste, and stitch. Backstitch at the
beginning and end.

Press the center front seam flat.

Press the center front seam allowances open.

37
Press the side seams flat.

Press the side seam allowances open.

Press the shoulder seams flat.

38
 Press the shoulder seam allowances open.

Trim off 2mm along the front and back lining

neckline edges.

Staystitch along the front and back lining

neckline edges with a stitch length of 3mm.
After staystitching, compare the neckline to the
pattern pieces to ensure it hasn’t stretched; if it
has, pull on the threads to gather it back to the
intended size.

39
 Place the garment bodice and the bodice lining right sides together. Align the neckline edges and the
back bottom edges up to the side seams. Pin, baste, and stitch on the machine. Backstitch at the
beginning and end.

Press the seam.

40
 Trim the seam allowance down to 5mm.

Turn the bodice right side out and baste around

the neckline and back bodice hem.

Press.

41
 Topstitch along the neckline down to the back
bodice hem at 5mm from the seam.

Press.

Align the garment and lining armscye edges, pin,

and baste.

42
 Stitch the armscye on the machine at 7mm from
the edge.

Press.

Trim the seam allowance down to 3mm.

43
 Place the armscye bias binding strip right sides
together with the armscye edge. Fold the binding’s
end to its wrong side by 1cm.

Cover the first end with the second end.

Pin the binding, baste, and machine stitch at

5mm from the edge. Backstitch at the beginning
and end.

44
 Press the seam flat.

Press the seam allowance towards the binding.

Fold the binding over the seam allowance,

leaving the raw edge free, and pin.

45
 Baste the free edge and machine stitch from the
right side of the garment at 1-2mm from the
seam.

Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching

line.

Press.

46
 Turn the finished edge to the garment’s wrong
side, baste, and machine stitch at 2mm from the
free edge.

Press the finished armscye.

Overlock the side edges on the front and back

skirt lining pieces with the right side facing up.

47
 Place the front and back skirt lining pieces right
sides together and align the side seams. Pin,
baste, and stitch on the machine, stopping 1cm
short of the top edge.

Press the seam flat.

Press the seam allowances open.

48
 Overlock the skirt lining bottom edge with the
right side facing up.

Fold and press the skirt lining bottom edge to

the wrong side along the hem allowance line of
1cm.

Pin the hem, baste, and machine stitch at 1-

2mm from the free edge. Backstitch at the
beginning and end.

49
 Press the hem.

Place the garment skirt and the skirt lining right

sides together. Align the pieces along the top
edges on the back.

Pin, baste, and machine stitch the back skirt

between the side seams. Backstitch at the
beginning and end.

50
 Press.

Turn the skirt right side out. Baste along the top
edge on the back while forming a 2mm roll
towards the lining. The stitching should be at
1.2cm from the edge.

Stitch the back skirt on the machine between

the side seams. Backstitch at the beginning and
end. Press.

51
 Align the front garment skirt and skirt lining
along the top edge. Pin and baste.

Stitch the front skirt on the machine at 8mm

from the top edge.

Press.

52
 Place the front bodice and skirt pieces right sides
together. Align the front bodice bottom edge with
the front skirt top edge, pin, baste, and machine
stitch between the side seams. Backstitch at the
beginning and end.

Press the seam flat.

Press the seam allowance towards the bodice.

53
 Припуск шва срезать до 7 мм.
Trim the seam allowance down to 7mm.

Деталь подкладки переда приложить

Place the front bodice lining right side over the
лицевой стороной к верхнему срезу нижней
top edge of the front skirt. Pin, baste, and stitch
части
the переда.
pieces up to the waist darts from both sides.
Детали сколоть,
There will be an opening сметать и middle
left in the стачать до
of the
талиевых
front вытачек
bodice lining. с одной и с другой стороны.
Посередине детали подкладки переда
должно остаться отверстие.

54
Press the waist seam from the right and wrong sides.

Baste the bottom edge of the front bodice at 3mm from the seam.

Topstitch along the front and back bodice pieces

at 3mm from the seam. Start and end the stitching
at the back ties. Backstitch at the beginning and
end.

55
 Press.

Insert the elastic into the channel at the top of

the back skirt using a bodkin or a safety pin. The
finished elastic length is indicated on the pattern
piece.

Secure the elastic ends by machine stitching

exactly in the side seams. Backstitch at the
beginning and end.
Give the garment a final press.

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SEW TOGETHER
WITH #VIKISEWS!
CREATE YOUR
IDEAL WARDROBE!

#vikisews_milana