Colloids and SurfacePhenomena

Aspects Of Make Up and Lipstick.

Group Members
CHAIN, KOK KEONG
LE, DIEUHANH THI
MCLAUGHLIN, KELLY E
VAN NATTER, RAINEE M
Date: 18th April 2002

Introduction

Definition of Cosmetic Ingredients

Overview of Customer Requirements
Role by Polymer and Surfactants
Application in Cosmetic Products:

Eye shadow and Blush

Lipstick
Liquid Cream
Pressed Powder for both pale and dark skin

Overview of Cosmetic
Consumer aspect

High quality
Safe or non allergic
Reasonable Price
Multiple Performance
Long Wearing

Role by Polymer And Surfactant

Polymer
gel like, long chain carbon with cross-linked
conformation
Encapsulation
Firm distribution
High internal surface areas, ideal sorption and desorption
mechanism

Surfactant
hydrophilic head group + hydrophobic tail
Emollients, wetting agents, and emulsifying agents,humectants
To promote lubricant, adhesiveness, slip and covering purposes

What are pressed powder

properties?
Slip
Spread Easily, smooth feeling
Rhapsody, Zinc Stearate

Adhesiveness
Cling Together
Zinc Stearate, Octyl Palmitate

Other Ingredients
Coloring Pigments, Iron Oxide
Shininess Appearance
Not over darkness and chalkiness

Pressed Powder for both pale and

dark skin
Long Wearing Pressed Powder
(for a person having pale skin and dark skin)
Composition

Components
(1) Talc, Rhapsody
(Filler/Matrix)
(2) Iron Oxides

Range
% by weight
70.0 - 90.0

Pale skin
90.5 (2M)

Dark skin
74.5 (4M)

0.1 - 10.0

0.5

15.0

2.0 - 6.0

3.0

0.0

(4) Octyl Palmitate

(Liquid Binder)

2.0 - 8.0

3.0

0.0

(5) Zinc Stearate

(Solid Binder)

2.0 - 6.0

0.0

3.5

(6) Mineral Oil 70 cst.

(Liquid Binder)

2.0 - 9.0

0.0

7.0

100.0

100.0

(Colorants)

(3) Polyethylene,
Micronized

ToTal

Action and Mechanism

Zinc Stearate
Zn (C18H35O2)2,
long hydrocarbon chain
ideal physicals
< 6% of moisture, alkaline, soluble in mineral oils

promoting the powder flow ability

reduced the interfacial tension

Octyl Palmitate
as liquid binder,
provide cohesion
as emulsifier, emollients

Iron Oxide
(Fe2O3) , Color Pigment

How to Produce make up?

Guidelines by Ultra. Chemical Inc.
pulverize or to crush Rhapsody talc in to
powder form
compress them into pan utilizing (200psi
2000psi )

Lipsticks
Purpose:
Protect lips from hard weather
Color lips

Objectives:
Variation in color from application to application
Lasts all day
Removable with cleansers

Basic categories of lipsticks:

Matte: heavy in wax and pigment but lighter in emollients.

Gloss: less wax and more oil to make the lips shinier.
Long lasting: contains silicone oil, which seals the color the lips.
Satin: combination of gloss and matte lipsticks.
Frosted: include a pearl zing agent that adds luster to the color.

Lipsticks

Example of Lipsticks, Matte

Formulation composition*
Components
Range % by wt
1.
Candellela Wax
3.0-9.0
2.
Ozokerite
1.0-4.0
1.0
3.
Paraffin wax 2.0-5.0
2.0
4.
Isosteryl Isostearated
2.0-10.0
5.
Ultrapure HMP-S
8.0-10.0
6.
Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride
7.
Castor Oil
QS
51.6
8.
Propyl Paraben
0.10
9.
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.1-1.0
10.
Colorants: D&C #7 CA lake
11.
Red Oxide
0.0-3.0
1.5
12.
Rhapsody Talc 4M
2.0-10.0
Total
100.0
*Ultra Chemical Inc.

Preferred by wt
3.0

10.0
10.0
2.0-10.0

10.0

0.10
0.10
0.0-4.0

0.30

10.0

Lipsticks

Function of Ingredients
1. Emollients
a. Castor oil:-extracted from castor plant
b. Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride:-oily liquid extract from plant
vegetable oil and dairy fats.

2.

3.

c. Isostearyl Isostearate
Emulsifiers
a. Paraffin Wax:-derived from petroleum
b. Ozokerite Wax:-ceresin wax, naturally occurs in mineral wax.
Preservatives
a. Propyl Parahen:-propyl-4-hydroxylbenzoate and prepare from pbromophenol

4.

5.

Colorants
a. D&C Red #7 CA lake:
b. Red Oxide
c. Ultrapure HMP-S
Binders
a. Candellia wax

Lipsticks
Processing
1. Heat the ingredients to 75-85degree Celsius
2. Mix until the batch is smooth and uniform

Lipstick
Shapes, packaging and price

~40
~40sec
sec

Eyeshadow & Rouge

Purpose:
To provide color

Requirements & Objectives:

Contain pigments
Adhere to skin
Have adequate slip to spread onto skin
Limited solubility in perspiration (to avoid
streaking), but easily removable with cleansers
Safe for eyes (preservatives)

~25
~25sec
sec

Forms
Solid, creamy

Dry, Compact

Liquid
suspension/
emulsion

(Black
Opal/BioCosmetic
Research Labs)

Solid, stick

(Almay,
Inc.)

(LOreal)

(Wet N Wild)

(Brief
(BriefOverview
Overview
Slide)
Slide)

Rouge/Eyeshadow Ingredients

Filler
Pigments and Opacifiers
Binders
Emulsifiers
Emollients
Preservatives
Absorbents
Perfume Carriers
Viscosity controllers/thickeners

Talc
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andoils
oils

Main Ingredients

Dry, Compact Cosmetics:

Talc (3MgO4SiO2H2O) (Filler)

Slip and shine due to lamellar structure

Very soft
White
Adheres to skin evenly

Liquid/Gel Rouges:
Water (Solvent)

Cream/Solid Cosmetics:

Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Solvent & Emollient)

Octyl Palmitate (Binder & Emollient)
Mineral Oil (Binder)
Castor Oil (see Lipsticks)

(Marmion, Sagarin 223-224

~15
~15sec
sec

Pigments & Opacifiers

Purpose:
To provide the color for the cosmetic
Opacifiers increase the opaqueness (coverage) of the applied
cosmetic color
Objectives:
Should not change color, bleed, or streak with pH
changes, water, or oil (perspiration)
Should not fade significantly when exposed to light
Be heat stable
Be easy to add into product
Be non-toxic
All pigments of same particle size

(Sagarin 229-235, Poucher III 2

55secsec-refer
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Common Inorganic Pigments

Pigment

Structure

Color(s)

Talc

MgO4SiO2H2O

White (Filler, Opacifier)

Zinc Oxide

ZnO

Titanium dioxide

TiO2

White/yellowish white
(Opacifier)
White (Opacifier)

Mica

White, pearlescence

Carbon black

K2Al4(Al2Si6O20)(OH4) or
H2KAl3(SiO4)3
C(s)

Iron Oxides

Fe3O4

Black

Iron Oxides, ochres, umbers

Fe2O3

Red, brown

Iron Oxides, Yellow ochres

Fe2O3H2O

Yellow-orange

Siennas

Black

Yellow, Brown

Ultramarines

~Na7Al6Si6O24S3

Chromium oxides,
hydroxide
Aluminum powder

Cr2O3, Cr2O33H2O
Al (s)

Blues, violets, greens, pinks,

reds
Yellowish (sage) green, bluish
green
Silver

Ferric Ferro-Cyanide, ferric

ammonium ferrocyanide

Fe4[Fe(CN)6]3XH2O,

Prussian blue

Manganese Violet

~Mn3+NH4P2O7

violet

Bismuth Oxychloride

BiOCl

Pearly lustre

(Marmion 99-111, Sagarin 228,233, PCI, Jo

Binders, Emulsifying Agents,

Surfactants, and Emollients
Binders:
Provide cohesion of powders

Emulsifying Agents/Surfactants
Promote the mixing of otherwise immiscible liquids
Lower surface tension, promoting more even mixing

Emollients
Soften and smooth the skin

***Many cosmetic ingredients serve more than 1 of these purposes, and thus they
have been combined for the purpose of listing ingredients.

(European Commission, Sagarin 257

Only
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Common Binders, Emulsifying Agents, Surfactants,

and Emollients

Zinc and Magnesium Stearate (dry binder)

Caprylic/capric triglyceride (solvent/emollient)
Octyl Palmitate (binder/emollient)
Mineral Oil (binder/emollient)
Petroletum (binder/emollient)
Squalane (liquid binder/emollient)
Isopropyl myristate (liquid binder)
Waxes (binders/emulsion stabilizers/emollients/viscosity
controlling agents)
Castor Oil (see lipsticks)

(European Commission, Sagarin 227,256-258,288,390, Poucher

Preservatives & Absorbents

Preservatives
Purpose
Inhibit the growth of micro-organisms
Examples
Parabens (esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid)
Glyceryl Monolaurate
EDTA
Imidazolidinyl Urea
Absorbents:
Purpose: Absorb water/oil.
Examples: Magnesium carbonate, Kaolin
Perfume Carriers:
Examples: Magnesium carbonate, Chalk

Paraben (p-hydroxybenzoate)

(Product Dictionary), (European Commission)

Compact Powder Eyeshadow

(Compact Powder Rouge is manufactured similarly)

(Almay, Inc.)

Talc (Filler)
Ultramarine
Blue (Pigment) 64.7%
Filler
Octyl Palmitate
(Liquid Binder)22.6%
Pigment
Squalane (Liquid Binder)
Liquid
Binder
10.5%
Iron Oxides
(Pigment)
Solid(Solid
Binder
Zinc Stearate
Binder) 2.0%
Glyceryl Monolaurate
Preservatives
0.6%
(monoglyceride) (Preservative)
EDTA (Preservative)
(Ultra Chem)

64.7%(wt)
20.0%
7.0%
3.5%
2.6%
2.0%

(Almay, Inc.)

0.5%
0.1%

Procedure:
1. Mill, grind, mix dry powder ingredients
2. Spray liquid phase into powder while mixing
3. Distribute
4. Press
5. Dry
(Ultra Chem), (Sagarin 258-261)

Liquid/Gel Rouge

(LOreal)

Procedure:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Water (softened or distilled)

67%
Glycerin (solvent)
19%
Diethylene glycol monostearate
(emulsifier)
4.3%
Water
67%
Cetyl alcohol ethoxylate
2.9%
Other
Solvents
19%
Titanium dioxide
2-3%
Pigment
4.5%
Pigment
2.0%
Emulsifiers
Iso-Propyl
myristate9.6%
(binder)
1.9%
Perfumes
0.2%
Cetyl
alcohol
Preservatives
0.15%
(emulsifier/emollient)
0.48%
Perfume
0.2%
Methyl paraben (preservative)
0.15%
Bromo acid (colourant)
0.02%

Heat and mix emulsion base.

Dissolve methylparaben in glycerin by heat (separate vessel).
Add water to glycerin and heat to 75C.
Add water-glycerin mixture to emulsion base with slow, continuous stirring.
Allow to cool with continuous stirring.
Add perfume and pigment, including titanium dioxide, to mixture and mix well.

(Poucher III 284)

Solid (stick) Rouge

(Wet N Wild)

Castor Oil
Candelilla wax
Carnauba wax
Color
Perfume

77.4%
9.9%
2.7%
10.0%
q.s.

(Processed similar to lipstick)

(Sagarin 254)

Cream-Solid Eyeshadow

(Black Opal/
BioCosmetic Research Labs)

Petroleum jelly* (binder/base)

Paraffin wax (binder/emollient)
Isopropyl palmitate
(binder/emollient)
16.4%
LustreBinders/Emollients/
Pigments
10.3%
Pigments
8.2%
Emulsifiers
82.0%
Beeswax (binder/emollient)
5.1%
Pigment
18.5%
Oleyl alcohol (emulsion stab.)
0.5%
LanolinPerfumes
(emollient)
4.1%
Preservatives
0.03%
Cetyl alcohol
(emulsifier/emollient)
3.1%
Perfume
0.5%
Butylparaben (preservative)
0.02%
Propylparaben (preservative)
0.01%

25.6%
22.6%

5.1%

Procedure:

Heat together non-wax binders/emulsifiers/emollients

Mix in preservatives and pigments

Melt waxes and add with lustre pigments to base mixture

Cool, and add perfume

Pour into moulds and allow to set

(Poucher III 294)

Mascara

(Almay)

Isoparaffin (Solvent)69.7%
Pigments
12.0%
Beeswax
5.4%
Solvent
69.7%
Ozokerite
5.4%
Waxeswax
14.0%
Polyethylene
4.2%
Pigments
12.0%
Carnauba
wax
2.0%
Polyethylene
4.2%
Microcrystalline wax 1.2%

Procedure:
1. Mix polyethylene with about half the solvent
2. Heat to about 100C with stirring
3. Add remainder of solvent
4. Cool rapidly
5. Add the pigments and melted waxes, and mixed thoroughly.

(Poucher III 305)

Properties of Liquid Cream

Cover blemishes in skin

Even skin tone and texture
Does not rub off
Removable with cleansers

Liquid Cream Composition

Components

Range (weight %)

Deionized Water
Hydroxethyl Cellulose
Xanthan Gum
Butylene Glycol
Lecithin
Polysorbate 20
Methyl Paraben
Iron Oxides
Titanium Dioxide
Talc, Rhapsody 4M
Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride
Isopropyl Myristate
Squalane
Stearic Acid
SE Glycerol Mono Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Fragrance
Additional Preservatives

0.10 - 0.40
0.40 - 0.40
0.00 - 8.00
0.00 - 1.50
0.00 - 1.50
0.10 - 0.30
0.10 - 8.00
0.00 - 13.00
1.00 - 15.00
1.00 - 8.00
1.00 - 8.00
0.00 - 5.00
0.50 - 3.00
1.00 - 4.00
0.20 - 1.00
0.00 - 0.20
0.00 - 0.50

Function of Ingredients
Humectants

Reduce drying out of cream

Moisturize skin
Plasticize product
Control texture

Emulsifiers
Create stable mixture of oil and water

Function of Ingredients
Emollients
Smooth skin
Soften skin

Gums
Protective colloid
Suspending agent
Film formation

Function of Ingredients
Vehicle
Deionized water

Filler/Matrix
Talc, Rhapsody 4M

Colorants
Add color
Iron oxides and titanium dioxide

Function of Ingredients
Fragrances
Preservatives

Processing
Add deionized water to kettle and water
phase ingredients
Disperse gums and pigments
Heat to 75 deg C
Combine oil phase ingredients separately
Heat to 70 deg C

Processing

Add oil phase to water phase

Cool to 35 deg C
Add fragrance and preservatives
Cool to 28 deg C

Product -> Market -> Consumer

Marketing Techniques
Advertisement
Visual, internet
Odor, magazine

Free Sample
Counseling
Product advice

Consumer research
questionnaires

Efficiency

Cosmetics Labeling
Manufactures of cosmetics must print
certain information on the labels of each
product:
The identity of the product
The net quantity in metric units
The name and address of the manufacturer or
distributor
Any warnings or cautions necessary for the
safe use of the product.

Labeling
Types of labels
White labels
Clear labels
Labels on the bottles

Conclusion

Characteristics of Polymer and Surfactant

Eye shadow and Blush

Color; Waxes and vegetable oils as emulsifiers

Liquid Cream

Color; binders (dry compact), emulsifiers (gel/cream)

Lipstick

Suspension of cosmetic ingredients

Favorable adhere to skin

Emulsifiers, preservatives

Face Powder

Reduce interfacial tension, adhere, slip

References
Andersen, Kristin. Cosmetic Colorants. Healthwell. Penton Media (04 Apr 2002).
http://www.healthwell.com/hnbreakthroughs/apr98/colorants.cfm.
European Commission Enterprise DG UNIT F/3 - Biotechnology, Competitiveness in
Pharmaceuticals, Cosmetics. The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic
Ingredients. (23 Oct 2001). http://eudrams1.is.eudra.org/F3/home.html - Inventory of
Cosmetic Ingredients
Jones, Mr. Photographic Chemical Descriptions. (23 Mar 2001).
http://www.speakeasy.org/~mrjones/chemdesc.htm - photographic chemical site, used
to get pigment color of ferric ferrocyanide
Marmion, Daniel M. Handbook of U.S. Colorants for Food, Drugs, and Cosmetics. 2nd
Ed. John Wiley & Sons (1984).
Paint and Coatings Industry (PCI). (Iron Oxide Information)
http://www.pcimag.com/CDA/ArticleInformation/features/BNP_Features_Item/0,1846,13
449,00.html.
Poucher, W.A., and G.M. Howard. Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps. Vol. I. 8th Ed.
Chapman and Hall (1974).
Poucher, W.A., and G.M. Howard. Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps. Vol. III. 8th Ed.
Chapman and Hall (1974).
Product Dictionary. Make Me Up (2000).
http://www.emakemeup.com/ingredients.html - List and short description of cosmetic
ingredients
Sagarin, Edward, Ed. Cosmetics: Science and Technology. Interscience Publishers
(1957).
Ultra Chemical Inc. Pressed Eyeshadow, Matte. (2000).
http://www.ultrachem.com/formulations/pressedeyeshadow.html.
Walgreens. http://www.walgreens.com. - Cosmetics photos.