Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Skin care
Definition
Function
Basic skin care
formulations
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Definition :
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Skin function :
Barrier function.
Temperature regulations.
Protection against harmful effect of UV
light through our pigment cells
Sensory organ.
production ... vitamin D.
Immune function.
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Identification of skin type :
Normal skin : has an equal balance between
water and oil, medium sized pores, well hydrated,
smooth and firm to touch.
Dry skin : dull, rough to touch, flaky, small
pores, lack of hydration.
TEWL: Transepidermal water loss, which kept
to a minimum in by NMF, inters cellular lipids,
keratinized cells. Alteration in TEWL can cause dry
skin and it is affected by factors like central heating,
wind , cold, contact with water, nutrition,
surfactants.
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3. Oily skin : results from hyper production
of sebum, skin looks as orange peel; large
hair follicle, slight shine prone to black
head, and acne.
- Sebum production are controlled and
affected by the following factors cause:
- Genetic, hormonal, stress, diet .. Etc.
- Factors may cause temporarily
sebaceous gland activity :
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Menstrual cycle, contraceptive,
- Sebum composed of :
triglcerides, free fatty acids, wax
esters, cholesterol.
- Max secretion at puberty at
about 20 years then decreased by
28% after each decade.
4. Combination skin :
Mixture of dry and oily skin.
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Basic skin care :
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Consumers needs can be roughly
divided into Two areas (table 1):
Protection from Repair of
UVR Dry skin
IRR Sunburns
Wind Acne
Central heating Wrinkles
Chemicals Puffy eyes
Cold Cellulite
Pollution Skin cancer
Insects Pigmentation
Age spots
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Scares
basic skin care is daily routine of skin care :
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Cleansing products
Shower gel
Foam bath
Facial cleanser
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Facial cleaners normally contain : Formula
1. Mixture of SAA (anionic , anionic/
amphoteric).
2. Thickening agents : NaCl,and other
viscosity modifiers: cellulose derivative, PEG
esters, poly acrylic acid (carbapol®).
3. Refatting agent : usually natural oil.
4. Humactants : glycerol, propylenglycol.
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5. Silicon derivatives : increase in popularity
because it impart smoothness without stickiness (e.g.
quaternary poly dimethyl silicon, dimethicone
copolyol).
6. Hydrolysed protein.
7. Natural oil and extracts.
8. Proteolytic enzymes : keratolytic agents.
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Cleansing products
Cleansers for oily skin
Facial mask and exfoliating lotion rather
than facial scrubs.
Formula:
Synthetic detergent system
Astringent
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- Some skin care ingredients
1. Plant extracts commonly used in skin-care
products
Their beneficial effects might be due to its moisturizing, antioxidant,
anti-inflammatory and photo-protective properties of natural
ingredients.
2. Special additive / nutrients:
- Vitamins: Vitamin C has been used extensively in cosmetic
formulations for their skin lightening activity, free radical scavenger
and collagen synthesis anti-aging properties. Ascorbic acid was
found to cause epithelium thickening, with cells of larger volume in
the granular and spiny layers. Vitamin E protect skin from ultraviolet
light, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, helps
delay ageing and has skin moisturizing properties due to its
antioxidant activity.
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Special additive / nutrients:
- Proteins.
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Alpha- hydroxy acids
- AHAs are a group of organic carboxylic compounds. AHAs most
commonly used in cosmetic applications are typically derived from food
products including glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from sour
milk), malic acid (from apples), citric acid (from citrus fruits) and tartaric
acid (from grape wine).
-.Glycolic acid, having the smallest molecular size, is the AHA with greatest
bioavailability and penetrates the skin most easily; this largely accounts
for the popularity of this product in cosmetic applications.
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Alpha- hydroxy acids
- Epidermal effect
AHAs have a profound effect on keratinization; which is
clinically detectable by the formation of a new stratum
corneum. It appears that AHAs modulate this formation
through diminished cellular cohesion between
corneocytes at the lowest levels of the stratum corneum.
- Dermal effects
AHAs with greater bioavailability appear to have deeper
dermal effects. Glycolic acid, lactic acid and citric acid, on
topical application to photodamaged skin, have been
shown to produce increased amounts of
mucopolysaccharides and collagen and increased skin
thickness without detectable inflammation, as monitored
by skin biopsies.
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TONERS
The active component is astringent.
Material with astringent properties can be
classified as
a. Short chain alcohol e.g. ethanol.
b. Organic acid with low molecular wt e.g. lactic
acid.
c. Metal salt of organic or inorganic acid e.g. Al
sulfate.
d. Vegetable extracts containing tannins e.g. Witch
hazel.
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TYPES OF TONERS
a) Epidermis:
The epidermis is a cellular structure, made up of many
layers of cells. The special structure of the epidermis is
classified as stratified squamous epithelium and is typical of
vertebrate animals.
It is responsible for producing the main barrier known as the
horny layer or stratum corneum, which forms the
outermost part of the epidermis. The horny layer is made up
of water-resistant dead cells, called corneocytes, which are
cemented together with a complex lipid material.
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Fig.1: Structure of the skin
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Fig.1: Structure of the skin
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Epidermis
The epidermis varies in thickness from 75 to 150
micrometers (µm) in most areas to 6 mm on the palms of the
hands and the soles of the feet.
In terms of cells the epidermis consists of about 35 cell layers
of which 15-20 layers make up the horny layer.
The lower living layers of the epidermis can also be
subdivided as follows:
the germinative or basal layer;
the stratum spinosum or prickle cell layer;
the stratum granulosum or granular layer, which is
characterized by the presence of distinctive keratohyalin
granules.
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Epidermis
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Moisturizing factor (NMF)
The NMF acts as a water reservoir in the horny
layer which keeps the latter pliable and feeling
soft.
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The dermis
The dermis functions as a supporting frame to
the epidermis, supplying it with nutrients via the
blood capillaries. It also supports the sensory
nervous system, secretary glands and hair
follicles.
Unlike the epidermis, which is a cellular structure,
the underlying dermis consists of connective
tissue. Other examples of connective tissue in
the body include bone, cartilage and loose
areolar tissue.
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The dermis - collagen
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The hypodermis
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Skin permeability
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Skin permeability
Damage to the skin may be caused by:
mechanical stress, chemicals, light and
micro-organisms (bacteria, yeasts, moulds
and viruses).
To the cosmetics manufacturer, chemicals
and light-induced damage are the most
important considerations.
Appropriate safety tests ensure that the
potential for a product or its component raw
materials to cause adverse reactions is
reduced to a minimum.
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Skin permeability
Adverse reactions include skin irritation and sensitization
which results in varying degrees of inflammation of the skin.
Inflammation of the skin is known as dermatitis, of which
there are many types.
Inflammation involves all the changes which take place in an
injured living tissue, provided that the injury does not
immediately kill the cells or destroy the tissue structure. The
visual signs of this activity, known as the triple response,
are:
- erythema ; redness
- oedema ; swelling
- flare ; more extensive reddening and swelling.
Each stage of the triple response can be measured
objectively, but these changes are accompanied by
subjective manifestations (burning, itching, and stinging)
which must also be taken into consideration.
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Types of skin:
Skin is often classified into four types according to the activity
of the oil producing sebaceous glands. This classification is
commonly used for facial skin because the skin type can vary
in the individual depending on age, body site, season and
state of health.
1. Dry skin.
2. Oily skin.
3. Normal skin is not particularly oily or dry. It is smooth
and firm to touch and the skin pores are barely noticeable.
4. Combination: this type of skin has a tendency to be
greasy in the central T-zone of the forehead, nose, central
cheeks and chin. The skin on the other areas is normal or
dry.
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Dry skin
It has been established that water keeps the
horny layer supple and ensures neutralization of
acids and alkalis. A water content of 10-20% in
the stratum corneum is said to be required to
keep it soft and pliable.
An alteration of the barrier (by repeated
exposure to surfactants for instance) can cause
an increase in TEWL to the extent that water is
lost faster than it can be replaced from the
underlying tissues. This results in the horny layer
drying out, precipitating dry skin conditions.
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Dry skin
Dry skin feels taut, rough and itchy. Closer
observation reveals the presence of very
fine wrinkles and, at a more advanced
stage, large scales.
The surface of severe dry skin is cracked
and is reddened (erythema) as a result of
the dilated peripheral blood capillaries in the
dermis. Environmental factors, sunlight and
ageing, plus numerous skin diseases and
dietary deficiencies, all produce dry skin.
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Oily skin
Oily skin results from, the excessive activity of
sebaceous glands which produce the lipid secretions
known as sebum.
There are several factors which can cause and/or
contribute to oily or greasy skin; genetic inheritance,
hormonal changes, diet, stress and external agents
(chemicals, ultraviolet light). Changes in hormone
levels which occur during puberty, the menstrual cycle,
use of oral contraceptives and pregnancy tend to
influence the activity of the sebaceous glands which
can result in a flare-up of oily skin.
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Basic components of
moisturizing products
A good moisturizing formulation is non-irritant, easy to
spread over the skin, easy to rub in without ‘soaping up’,
able to leave the skin feeling soft rather than sticky, and
pleasantly perfumed. If the product is to be unperfumed
there should be no fatty base odor. The basic components
of a moisturizing product include moisturizer, emulsifier
system, water, preservative and antioxidants if necessary.
Moisturizing preparations can be classified into five groups.
1. Day preparations.
2. Night preparations.
3. Hand and body lotions.
4. All-purpose products.
5. Barrier creams.
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Day preparations
Day moisturizing products tend to be light, oil-in-water
emulsions which are designed to spread easily and rub
into the skin quickly.
They have evolved from the traditional vanishing
cream system which is an oil-in-water emulsion that is
based on high-quality stearic acid as the oil phase.
Commercial triple-pressed stearic acid consists of a
mixture of stearic and palmitic acid with a tiny amount
of oleic acid.
Partial neutralization of the fatty acid (16-20%) with a
base such as triethanolamine or potassium hydroxide
produces a soap which constitutes the emulsifier
system.
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Day preparations
These soap-based oil / water creams give a wet feel on
the skin when first applied. They do not rub in well and
appear soapy and white.
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Night preparations
One of the advantages, that water-in-oil
systems have over their oil-in-water
counterparts, is that the continuous oil
phase has direct contact with the skin and
forms a protective film immediately without
any detergent action.
In this way the dispersed water particles are
trapped in the oil, by the water-in-oil
emulsifiers and the product is more
resistant to being washed off. Therefore
such products have remained popular with
people with dry skin.
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Night preparations
Traditional night creams were
originally based on the beeswax,
borax and mineral oil systems.
Today other waxes, vegetable oils
and silicone oils (instead of mineral
oil) can be used as emollients and co-
emulsifiers such as quaternary
ammonium salts or the volatile
silicones such as cyclomethicone.
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Night preparations
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Hand and body lotions
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All-purpose products
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Protective products
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Protective products
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Protective products
Protection from water
Formulations which exhibit water repellency
may be based on petroleum jelly , lanolin
and silicones.
An aerosol mousse, as an alternative,
offers a product which is hygienic and easy
to apply. Kaolin may be included as a skin
protectant. Glyceryl monostearate (self-
emulsifying grade) allows the product to be
easily washed off after use.
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Protective products
(c) Protection from soil and oils
Non-oil soluble film formers such as gum acacia and
tragacanth or sodium alginate can be used to provide
oil repellency. Glycerin helps to plasticize the gum film.
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