Cosmetic Raw

Materials

Christina Avanti
Raw Material of Cosmetic
Source:
• Raw materials
• Natural compounds
• Synthetic compounds
• Biosynthetic materials
 Condition to be considered:
1.Excellent functions matching usage
purpose.
2.Good safety.
3.Excellent oxidation stability
4.Constant quality such as lack of smell
Oils/fats Source Constituent Used for

Olive oil Fruit of the olive tree, Olea •Oleic acid • control moisture
europaea Linne. (Oleaceae) •Palmitic acid evaporation
•Linoleic acid • enhance the
feeling on use

Camelia oil Seeds of the camellia bush, •Acid in oil are oleic •cosmetic creams
Camellia japonica Linne. acid •Milky lotions,
(Theacea). •Palmitic acid •Hair oil.
•Linoleic acid

Macadamia Nuts of the macadamia tree, •Oleic acid •Creams

nut oil Macadamia ternifolia •Palmitoleic acid •Milky lotions
•Lipstick

Castor oil Seeds of the castor plant, •ricinolic acid as the •Lipsticks
Ricinus communis Linne. hydroxy acid •Pomades
(Euphorbiaceae)
 Wax
Source Constituent Used for
esters

Carnauba leaves and leaf stems of •Esters lipstick

wax wild or cultivated carnauba •Alcoholsters
pals, Copernica cerifera
Mart (Palmae).

Candelilla stems of the candelilla •fatty-acid esters lipstick

wax family of Euphorbiaceae •Hydrocarbons
plants (Euphorbia cerifera hentriacontane
Alcocer, Euphorbia •alcohols
antisyphilitica Zucarrini, and
Pedilanthus pavonis
Boissier)
Wax esters Source Constituent Used for

Jojoba oil Seeds of the seeds •esters of •Creams

of the wild jojoba unsaturated •Milky lotion
plant, Simmondsia higher alcohols •Lipsticks
chinensis and (11-eicosen-1-ol
Simmondsia and 13-dococen-
california 1-ol), or
•unsaturated fatty
acids (11-
eicosenoic acid
and oleic acid).
 Wax
Source Constituent Used for
esters

Bees wax Oriental honeybee, Apis •Esters of higher fatty acids •Creams
indica Radoszkowski •Higher alcohols •Lipstick
(Apidae) and European •Hair stick
honeybee, Apis mellifera
L

Lanolin fleece of the •Anteiso fatty acids •creams

domesticated sheep, •Lipstick
Ovies aries Linne CH3CH2
CH(CH2)nCOOH (n=4~26)
CH3

•Iso fatty acids

CH3
CH3 CH(CH2)nCOOH (n=6~24)
Hydrocarbons Source Constituent Used for
Liquid paraffins petroleum saturated milky lotions
fraction hydrocarbons

Paraffin straight •Creams

hydrocarbon •Lipstick
chains 2-3%
branched
hydrocarbons

Petrolatum C24-C34 •External phase •Creams

hydrocarbons in solid paraffin •Lipsticks
a non crystalline •Internal phase
liquid paraffins
Hydrocarbons Source Constituent Used for

Ceresin Ozocerite C29-C35 Used in

straight lipsticks
hydrocarbons

Microcrystalline Petrolatum C31-C70 •Lipstick

wax isoparaffin •Creams

Squalane •Deep sea hydrogenating •Creams

shark squalane •Milky lotions
•Olive oil
Higher fatty
Source Constituent Used for
acids
Lauric acid: Datty acid •Cosmetic soaps
CH3(CH2)10COO •Cleansing
H preparations

Myristic acid: Palm nut oil •Soap

CH3(CH2)12COO •Cleansing
H

Palmitic acid: Palm oil •Creams

CH3(CH2)14COO •Milky lotions
H
 Higher fatty
Source Constituent Used for
acids

Stearic acid: Fatty acids •Creams

CH3(CH2)16COOH •Lotion
•Lipsticks

Isostearic acid Fatty acid •Stearic acid Emulsifier

•Palmitic acid
Higher alcohols Source Constituent Used for

Cetyl alcohol: whale oil beef tallow •Creams

CH3(CH2)15OH •Milky lotions

Stearyl alcohol: waxy solid •Creams

CH3(CH2)17OH •Milky lotion
•Lipsticks

Isostearyl alcohol oily raw

material
Higher
Source Constituent Used for
alcohols
Cetyl 2-ethyl •Creams
hexananoate •Milky lotions

Di-isostearyl ester of isostearyl •Lipstick

malate isostearyl alcohol of 5,7,7- •Foundations
alcohol and trimethyl-2- •Creams
malic acid (1,3,3-
trimethylbutyl)
octyl alcohol
 Esters Source Constituent Used for
Isopropyl sulfuric acids •Myristate acid •Milky lotions
myristate •Isopropanol •Makeup
products
•Hair cosmetics

2-Octydodecyl 2-Octyldodecyl •Myristic acid To control

myristate myristate •2-octyldodecanol moisture
 Silicones Source Constituent Used for

Dimethylpolysiloxane CH3 CH3 CH3

•Skin product
CH3 Si O Si O Si CH3
CH3 CH3 CH3 •Hair product

Methylphenyl- Wide range of

polysiloxane products

Others Source Constituent Used for

Polyoxypropylene Alcohols Liquid hair

dressings
Anionic surfactants Source Constituent Used for

Soap: RCOOM [R: C7-21, •T

allow fats •Fatty acids •Cleansing creams
M: Na, K, •Coconut oil •Alkali •Shaving creams
N(CH2CH2OH)3] •Palm nut oil

Alkyl sulfate: ROSO3M fatty alcohols •Chlorosulfonic acid •Shampoos

•Sulfuric anhydride •Dentifrices
•Fuming sulfuric
acid

Polyoxyethylene alkyl •Pollymerizing •Shampoos

ether sulfate: oxyethylene
RO(CH2CH2O)nSO3M •Fatty-acid
alcohol
 Anionic
Source Constituent Used for
surfactants
R CONCH2CH2SO3M

CH3
Acyl N-methyl dehydrochloric acid •Cosmetic cleansing
taurate creams
•Shampoos

Alkylether phospate fatty alcohol •Cleansing creams

•Shampoos

N-Acylamino acid fatty acid shampoos, cleansing

salts creams and
dentifrices