S O Z I O , I N C .

1 P AG E 1

101
ALL THERE IS TO
KNOW ABOUT
FRAGRANCE FRAGRANCE:
HISTORY
TECHNIIQUES
OLFACTIVE ANALYSIS
TRENDS

///////////////////

OLFACTIVE
TRAINING
PRESENTED BY SOZIO, INC.

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
2 P AG E 2

101
FRAGRANCE

The term perfume is associated with

fragrance - an arousing odor,
pleasant smell, erotica, sensuality.

The French use of the term perfume

dates back to the 16th Century
and is derived from the Latin per-
"through" + fumare -"to smoke". It
describes the activity used to
spread scent in churches, public
places and homes by burning
aromatic plants -- incense -- and
thus “through smoke”

Today the production of perfume is

part of a multi billion-dollar industry.
In ancient times it also played a
major role in the prosperous trading
of merchandise between the east
and the west.

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
3 P AG E 3

FRAGRANCE
101
Smell -- one of the five senses --
is the sense that allows us, with the
help of organs in our nose and a
process of memory and associations in
our brain, to recognize our world and
to understand and adapt to our
environment.

It tells us what we like and dislike;

it tells us with whom to fall in love.

It stimulates our appetite and enriches

our eating experience.

It triggers memories and affects our

moods. The lack of it might endanger
our lives or leave us in state of
depression.

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
4 P AG E 4

101
FRAGRANCE

Perfume Basics - Perfume is a man

made product, mostly in the form of
liquid, which is composed of several,
sometimes hundreds, of components
that produce a pleasant smell by
having their odor molecules float in the
air. Plants, animals and synthetic
aromatic compounds make up the
source ingredients for the perfume
industry.
The formulas used for creating perfume
are usually carefully guarded secrets –
but almost all perfume manufacturers
have developed a similar technique
that enables the scent of the perfume
to unfold gradually over time.

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THE HISTORY OF
PERFUME
The History of Perfume - The history of
the production and use of perfume
stretches back some thousands of
years.
Perfume, incense and the use of scent
were mentioned many times in the
bible, along with remains of records
describing production in ancient
Egypt, the land of Israel, India,
Mesopotamia and in the Far East.
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S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 5
HISTORY
&
FRAGRANCE
The Greeks, followed by the Romans,
refined the process of production of
aromatic oils and perfumes, and
emphasized the use of them in the
culture of body care.
Islamic scientists, hundreds of years ago,
introduced a process of distilling that
enabled manufacturers to extract
essential oils and fragrances from raw
materials.
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 S O Z I O , I N C .
6 P AG E 6

SPICE, INCENSE
&
FRAGRANCE

INCENSE
TRADE ROUTES

The Ancient Incense Trade Routes - Fortresses were built in strategic points
The Perfume and incense trade along the trade routes in order to protect
route played an important role in the convoys carrying the expensive
the connection between the East merchandise from robbers.
and the West – providing
commercial activity that also
included the trade of spices and
precious stones.

From ancient Arabia and its

neighbors, this route brought
famous aromatic plants such as
frankincense and myrrh to the holy
land, and eventually to the western
world.

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 7
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 7

101
FRAGRANCE

Basic classification of perfume is done

using 3 main categories:

•The concentration/dilution level of the

essential oils

•The family to which it belongs

•The notes of the scent

Concentration/Dilution:
Since essential oils are by nature
incredibly concentrated, extremely
toxic and should not be consumed,
inhaled or come in contact with skin,
the mixture of essential oils is diluted
with alcohol and/or with other neutral
odor sources like water, coconut oil,
wax or extracts of jojoba.

This is also done to cut the intensity of

the scent.

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
8 P AG E 8 9

FRAGRANCE
101
The Origin/Source of Essential Oils

Plants, animals and synthetic aromatic

compounds make up the source
ingredients for the perfume industry.

Plants – Plants have been the earliest and

the main source of aromatic compounds
in perfume production, primarily because
of their relative ease of accessibility, and
the great variety of odors among them.

The source of aromatic compounds can

come from different parts of the plants.
From flowers like the rose and jasmine,
from resin like frankincense, myrrh and
pine, from bulbs like those of the iris plant,
from bark like cinnamon, from seeds like
Tonka bean, coriander, anise and others,
or from the root like orrisroot. Some
commonly used leaves and twigs are
lavender, sage and rosemary. Cloves are
an example of a flower (in bud form) that
is valued.

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FRAGRANCE
101
Many fruits that elicit enticing odors,
such as cherries and strawberries, are
surprisingly not used in the production
of perfumes. Whenever these
fragrances are achieved they are the
result of synthetic compounds. On the
other hand, the leaves and rind of the
fruit of citrus plants are often used in
the perfume industry.
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S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 9
Some plants have been more difficult
to find or to grow. Plants like myrrh
and frankincense for example were
grown, in the past, only in Somalia and
Southern Arabia; persimmon was
grown in Ein Gedi by the Dead Sea,
some others like cinnamon were
grown in Ceylon and south India,
others in China. Together with the
spices grown in the east, these rare
plants triggered the establishment of
the famous ‘Trade Route’, known also
as the ‘Perfume Route’ or ‘Incense
Route’.
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 S O Z I O , I N C .
10 P AG E 1 0

FRAGRANCE
101
Animals – Animal pheromones have
been used in perfume production for
a number of centuries. Perfumers have
highly valued them for the affect they
have on the perfume compounds,
since they tend to heighten the
intensity of the fragrance. Today,
simulated animal pheromone extracts
are synthetically created in order to
protect endangered animals.

Synthetic compounds – The use of

synthetic aromatic ingredients for
perfume production goes back as far
as the end of the 19th century. The
progress made in the research of
organic chemistry made it possible to
develop new aromatic compounds
that replaced, in many cases, the
more expensive and rare natural
aromatic sources, thus, allowing the
manufacture of perfume for more
reasonable prices.

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S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 1

FRAGRANCE
101
Aromatic Essential Oils: Absolutes:
(Derived from flowers, stems, leaves, (Created to remove aromatic
barks and fruits) components from a plant which
cannot yield aromatic essential oil)
Examples:
• Orange Oil Examples:
• Lavender Oil • Rose
• Patchouli Oil • Jasmine
• Sandalwood Oil • Orange Flower

Resins: Man Made Ingredients:

(Materials which are exuded from a Commonly called chemicals, varieties
plant) of aromatic sensations, reproduced
synthetically.
Examples:
• Myrrh
• Benzoin
• Fir
• Oakmoss

Note: Most fragrances are comprised of a combination of natural and synthetic ingredients.

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
12 P AG E 1 2

HOW
FRAGRANCE
IS MADE

METHOD TO
THE MADNESS

Today, fragrance is usually constructed There are different methods that are
from a mixture of essential oils and used in order to extract the aromatic
fragrances, combined with fixatives compounds from the raw materials.
and solvents. The result is often somewhat different
than the original odor since it is
The essential oils contain the volatile affected by the extracting process.
fragrance of the component. It is
incredibly concentrated oil which
contains the distinctive aromatic
properties of the plant, in a way, its
essence. The oils are produced usually
through distillation, expression or
solvent extraction.

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 13 S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 3

FRAGRANCE
101
Perfumes are typically manufactured to
unfold, over time. They are formulated
based on 3 ‘Notes’ – Top Notes, Middle
Notes and Base Notes. Each of these
notes represents a different group of
scents within the perfume’s fragrance.
The fragrance gradually develops over
time as a new note takes over from the
previous note.
Base notes – Are noticed just before
the middle notes fade. They consist
of large and heavier scent
molecules that evaporate slowly
and can be detected even after 24
hours.
The middle and base notes are the
two that are at the core of the
perfume’s fragrance.

Top notes – Give us the first immediate

impression of the fragrance. They are
usually strong, sharp scents. These scents
are made of light molecules and
generally last a matter of 10-30 minutes
before they evaporate.

Middle notes – Are noticed as the top

notes evaporate. They are more
rounded, mellow scents. They usually
appear some 10-45 minutes after
applying the perfume and last longer
than the top notes.

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
14 P AG E 1 4

THE
FRAGRANCE
WHEEL

FRAGRANCE FAMILIES:
THE FRAGRANCE
WHEEL Each fragrance can be put into a
fragrance family, grouping it with
many other similar fragrances.
Commonly there are Four main
groups (Citrus, Fougere, Oriental and
Chypre), which are then divided into
sub groups.

Feminine fragrances have floral

tones and male fragrances have
Fougere style fragrances.

Copyright  2011
Copyright Sozio,
 2012 Inc.
Sozio, Inc. www.jesozio.com
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 15
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 5

FRAGRANCE
101
Aldehydic Green
• Aldehyde C-11 • Leaf Acetate
• Aldehyde C-12 MNA
Marine
Animalic • Calone Solution @10% in DPG
• Ambrarome Absolute
Mint
Aromatic • Spearmint Oil
• Lavender Oil
Spice
Balsamic • Eugenol
• Fir Needle Oil
Sweet
Camphoraceous • Vanillin
• Eucalyptol

Citrus Wood
• Lemon Oil California • Sandalwood Oil
• Orange Oil • Cedarwood Oil

Floral
• Orange Flower

Fruit
• Strawberry Natural Absolute

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
16 P AG E 1 6
FRAGRANCE 101
The common fragrance family groups are listed:
■ Fougère (pronounced ‘foo-jer’): Fougere
fragrances are one of the most popular men’s
families. These will often contain Lavender and
Oakmoss. Examples include: Masculine: Polo Sport
by Ralph Lauren, Platinum Egoiste by Chanel, Cool
Water by Davidoff, Jazz by YSL, Paco Rabanne
pour homme.
■ Floral: The majority of feminine fragrances are
floral. Some are a bouquet of different flowers,
with each individual flower complementing the
others; some use one main flower and
complement it with other notes and accords;
others are very simple and can just be the scent of
a flower alone, which are also called single-note
scents. Examples include: Masculine: Agua
Lavanda by Puig, Insensé by Givenchy Feminine:
Chanel No 19, Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel, L’Air du
Temps by Nina Ricci, Charlie by Revlon.
■ Oriental fragrances are common in both male
and female fragrances. They are often warm,
spicy and sweet and contain ingredients such as
Vanilla and Tonka bean. Sandalwood is also
common in these fragrances. Examples include:
Masculine: Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein,
Joop! Homme by Joop!, Le Male by Jean Paul
Gaultier, Equipage by Hermes, Egoiste by Chanel
Feminine: Jean Paul Gaultier “Classique”, Angel,
Opium by Yves Saint Laurent
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■Chypre (pronounced ‘sheep-r’): A Chypre
fragrance contains woody, mossy, and floral
notes. This kind of fragrance will also contain
Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Patchouli,
Bergamot, and Vetiver. Examples include:
Masculine: Givenchy Gentleman, Fendi
Uomo, Vetiver by Guerlain, Aramis, Van
Cleef and Arpels, Quorum by Puig, Antaeus
by Chanel, 212 Men by Carolina Herrera.
Feminine: Cuir de Russe by Chanel, Mitsouko
by Guerlain, Chypre de Coty.
■Marine: The Marine fragrance family is
relatively new and is used to describe scents
that evoke a feeling of the sea air. An
ingredient called calone is used to give the
marine scent.Examples include: Masculine:
Kenzo Pour Homme, L’Eau D’Issey pour
Homme by Issey Miyake, New West for Him
by Aramis Feminine: Escape by Calvin Klein,
Inis by Fragrances of Ireland, Aquawoman
by Rochas.
■Citrus: The earliest colognes were in the
citrus family. Citrus scents are fresh and very
enlivening. Examples include: Masculine:
Eau Sauvage by Dior, D&G Masculine by
Dolce & Gabbana, Happy by Clinique.
Feminine: Cristalle by Chanel, Green Tea by
Elizabeth Arden, Diorella by Christian Dior,
4711 Fragrance by Muelhens.
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S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 7

101
FRAGRANCE

Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche

Created: 1982 For: Men Type: Aromatic Fougere

Top Notes
Basil, Rosemary, Verbena,
Lavender

Heart Note
Juniper, Coriander, Cinnamon,
Angelica

Base Note
Oakmoss, Fir, Patchouli, Vetiver

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
18 P AG E 1 8

101
FRAGRANCE

Anais Anais by Cacharel

Created: 1978 For: Women Type: Floral – Muguet

Top notes
Bergamot, Galbanum, Hyacinth,
Honeysuckle

Heart note
Lily, Lily of the Valley, Rose,
Ylang-Ylang

Base note
Cedarwood, Sandal, amber,
Oakmoss

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 19
S O Z I O , I N C .

101
P AG E 1 9

FRAGRANCE

Le Male by Gaultier
Created: 1995 For: Men Type: Oriental – Fougere

Top notes
Mint, Lavender, Bergamot

Heart note
Cinnamon, Cumin, Orange,
Blossom

Base note
Vanilla, Tonka, Sandal, Cedar

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
20 P AG E 2 0

101
FRAGRANCE

212 Men by Carolina Herrera

Created: 1999 For: Men Type: Chypre

Top notes
Bergamot, Lavender, Green

Heart note
Gardenia, Pepper, Ginger

Base note
Sandalwood, Vetiver, Incense,
Musk

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 21 S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 2 1

101
FRAGRANCE

L’Eau d’Issey Pour Femme by Issey Miyake

Created: 1992 For: Women Type: Marine

Top notes
Lotus, Freesia, Cyclamen, Melon

Heart note
Peony, Carnation, Lily, Lily of the
Valley

Base note
Cedar, Musk, Amber, Sadal

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
22 P AG E 2 2

101
FRAGRANCE

4711 by Muelhens
Created: 1722 For: Unisex Type: Citrus

Top Notes
Orange Oil, Peach, Basil,
Bergamot And Lemon

Heart Notes
Cyclamen, Lily, Melon, Jasmine
And Bulgarian Rose

Base Notes
Patchouli, Tahitian Vetiver, Musk,
Sandalwood, Oakmoss And
Cedar

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 23
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 2 3

DICTIONARY OF FRAGRANCE TERMS:

THE ABC’S OF
An A to Z Glossary of Perfume Lingo
FRAGRANCE
Learn the lingo of fragrance fanatics,
so you can talk like a perfumista.

This glossary defines some commonly

used terms in the world of perfume
and fragrance.

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Copyright Sozio,
 2012 Inc.
Sozio, Inc. www.jesozio.com
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 28 S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 2 8

FRAGRANCE
101
Chanel no.5, an ancient mystery for evermore This eighty-something year old fragrance
history… is one of the best-selling perfumes in the
world. It actually made history as it has
“What do I wear in bed? Why, Chanel No. 5, of been generated by mixing eighty natural
course.” and artificial scents – and for the first time
people could not identify what it was.
Answered by ever popular with the rich and Before Chanel No. 5 was made, perfumes
sophisticated, Marilyn Monroe. were just flower scents with poetic names,
and some people consider Chanel No. 5
Interesting and true, the signature fragrance to be a first real perfume.
Chanel No. 5 was created after a fortune teller
told Coco Chanel that her lucky number was five.
It was released on the fifth day of the fifth month
of the year, May 5th 1921. Ernext Beaux also
created four other perfumes for Chanel; they are
the little known Bois d’Illes, No. 22, Cuir de Russie,
and Gardenie. However, Gardenie has recently
been re-released by the House in 2005 with
international acclaim, a scent that fuses jasmine
with musks.

The big novelty, however, was the aldehydes. The

legend says that the ‘extensive’ amount of
aldehydes used in Chanel No. 5 was in fact the
result of a mishap in the lab. Whether this is true or
one of many myths created about this icon, who
knows…?

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
29 P AG E 2 9

FRAGRANCE
101 Fragrance Collection 11-12
What’s new for 2011-2012? Skin tones and ultra-dark blacks, precious woods, sweet treats, bouquets of white
flowers, optimism…

New for her

Which of the new launches is for you? It’s

true that once again, the fall season offers
an embarrassment of riches. For women
seeking mystery and seduction, Givenchy
unveils Dahlia Noir. For fans of gourmand
scents, the choice is vast: how about
mischief-filled Prada Candy?

INCENSE
TRADE ROUTES
Powdery scents and hues are also in. Check out:
Chanel’s N°19 Poudré, for its blend of iris and
cottony musks. Diesel promises an aphrodisiac effect
for its woodsy-gourmand new fragrance, Loverdose,
which comes in a surprising, multi-facetted heart-
shaped bottle. Burberry presents Body, a perfume
announced as ‘the most exciting launch we’ve ever
done.’

Several newer luxury houses, like Bottega Veneta and Elie Saab are
entering the world of perfume, and Valentino is making a very visible
comeback, with a perfume christened Valentina.
The stars are back in force, too, including Céline Dion, with Signature;
Beyoncé, with Pulse; Jennifer Lopez, with Love & Light… And let’s not
forget singing sensation Justin Bieber, with his first fragrance for women,
Someday, a huge hit in the USA.

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
30 P AG E 3 0

FRAGRANCE
101 Fragrance Collection 11-12
What’s new for 2011-2012? Skin tones and ultra-dark blacks, precious woods, sweet treats, bouquets of white
flowers, optimism…

INCENSE
TRADE ROUTES
For him or for both: what’s new?
For men, the most hyped launch is
probably Jean Paul Gaultier’s Kokorico,
a woody-gourmand scent in a
polymorphous, half-torso, half-face
bottle. Couturiers Dolce & Gabbana
invite men to act ‘Le Fou’ (The Fool);
Hugo Boss suggests smelling ‘Just
Different. And Azzaro has recruited
singer Julian Casablancas for their new
fragrance in a microphone bottle:
Decibel.
There’s also been a lot of attention trained on
the return of Calvin Klein, with ck one shock, a
duo with a rebellious and trendy style. Black
for him; white for her: be careful, these new ck
one’s are not meant to be shared!
The following scents, however, are meant for
him and her to share: Penhaligon’s tonic
Juniper Sling, with its waves of British gin…
Serge Lutens’s angry yet elegant Vitriol
d’œillet, and delicate Eau cHic by Parfums
Nicolaï. As for oud wood, it is still a star in rare
scents. For him or her, Van Cleef’s Precious
Oud reveals oud wood garbed in spicy and
floral tonalities.

The Olfactive Studio has arrived in perfumeries

with a line of photography-inspired unisex
scents christened Chambre Noire (Darkroom),
Still Life and Autoportrait (Self-Portrait). These
fragrances were conceived of collectively,
based on fragranistas’ on-line discussions. A
first!
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FRAGRANCE
101
FRAGRANCE
TRENDS
Nude & Powdery
Pale beige, skin tones, cream, powder
pink and more: after make-up, nude
tones are coming to perfume. Several
designers have adopted this key color
trend for their bottles or their ads.
For their first fragrances, Bottega
Veneta and Elie Saab, for instance,
respectively went with a somewhat
leathery chypre scent and a white-
floral bouquet.
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31 S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 3 1
NUDE
&
POWDERY
For women who love nude tones,
Valentino has adorned the bottle for
Valentina – a floriental with a white truffle
note – with a floral brooch in a trio of
neutral nude shades. For Givenchy’s
powdery-chypry Dahlia Noir and Nina
Ricci’s L’Air, the shade takes on pinkish
accents.
A chic blend of couture sophistication
and vintage softness emanates from
each of these new scents.
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 S O Z I O , I N C .
32 P AG E 3 2

FRAGRANCE
101

ULTRA
FRAGRANCE BLACK
TRENDS

Ultra-black
But more powerful woody-orientals – like
Gaultier’s Kokorico, Calvin Klein’s ck one
Black is back for men, after an absence of
shock for him, and Azzaro’s Decibel, with
several years. It’s all over bottles, for everything
cocoa, tobacco and aldehyde facets
from fresh scents to fuller-bodied ones. What’s
respectively – have chosen that color
new is that designers are pushing the envelope
code, too. Montblanc’s neo-classical
all the way to absolutely opaque black bottles,
fougère, Legend, also comes in opaque
unlike what they were doing until recently.
black.
This ultra-black trend carries a message of
The intense black trend is still relatively rare
strength and self-confidence, and will suit young
for women. But Cacharel did choose it for
city-dwellers looking for trendy, sexy scents
Amor Amor Forbidden Kiss, a coffee-
perfectly. Hugo Just Different, a woody, fresh
inflected gourmand scent, redolent of the
and fruity scent, and Armani Code Sport, a
temptation of forbidden fruit.
sparkling spicy-citrus scent, are both riding that
wave.

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 S O Z I O , I N C .
33 P AG E 3 3

101
FRAGRANCE

OVERDOSE
OF
OPTIMISM

Overdose of Optimism
Even packaging is all about good cheer
and joie de vivre. Two cases in point:
While economists may say that the crisis isn’t
Prada Candy’s bright pink box with a light-
over yet, designers beg to differ! Fragrance
hearted drawing of a young woman, and
houses are projecting a massive message of
the extravagant tulle-topped cap for Vera
optimism in their latest launches. Yves Rocher,
Wang’s Lovestruck.
for instance, christened their latest perfume
As a trend, optimism is essentially – but not
Moment de Bonheur (“Moment of Happiness”).
exclusively – feminine. Paul Smith, has
The gentle, cheerful scent reveals a rose with
launched ‘Optimistic’ as a his-and-hers
green and woody facets. The late-50s, early-
duo. Twice as many reasons to look at the
60s, French New Wave cinema-inspired ad for
bright side!
Nina Ricci’s L’Air highlights the sense of care-
free happiness with charmingly retro music. True
to its name, the more modern and colorful ad
for Kenzo Madly focuses on being madly happy.

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Fragrance is everywhere. In your
soap, your toothpaste, your
shampoo, your conditioner, your
hairdressing, your deodorant, your
polish, your washing-up liquid, your
washing powder, your make-up,
your hand cream, your lip salve,
your fabric conditioner, your fly
spray, your everything. Even your
fragrance-free things have "odor
neutralizers" in them to take away
their intrinsically nasty smells.
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34 S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 3 4
101
FRAGRANCE
Today the fragrance industry is faced with
so many rules and regulations. What was
once an art is now cripled… but as chemist
and perfume critic Luca Turin wrote:
"Nobody ever died from wearing Mitsouko,
but lots of babies were born as a result of
it.“ With that said enjoy, appreciate and
embrace the world of fragrance!
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 101
FRAGRANCE

Odor Identification

This test requires the individual to associate odors with objects or sensations. The
candidate smells the sample and records their odor impression. Partial credit is
given for answers which have an association with the odor, yet do not specifically
identify it. Individuals who score high on this portion of the quiz are good
candidates for panels whose objectives include concept appropriateness,
fragrance modification or preference.

Instructions:

Please identify the odor sample given to you by the instructor. Use as many words
as you need to identify the odor. Partial credit is given for identifying an odor very
similar to the sample.

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

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SOZIO
D I S C O V E R

A N E W W O R L D O F F R A G R A N C E S

ALL THERE IS TO KNOW ABOUT FRAGRANCE

FRAGRANCE 101

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

Please Contact Tracey Lundquist at traceyl@jesozio.com or 732-572-5600

51 Ethel Road West – Piscataway, NJ – 732-572-5600

www.jesozio.com