M.DES.

FDP
BASIC SHOE MAKING
(FOUNDATION COURSE)
(Topic:MACHINES IN CUTTING ROOM)

Prepared by:
Vishal
Sr. Faculty (FT)
Cutting Department (FDDI,Noida)
 Introduction
 In any shoe factory whatever requirement of
cutting, accordingly hand cutting and machine
cutting options are taken by the management.
 There is another department is made in which
various operations are done before start of
closing department that is called “Cutting
Preparation department” .
 This department is attached with “Cutting
room”.
 That is also called “Pre-Fabrication”
Department.
 Machines in Cutting Preparation Department

There are the following machines or tables/work stations are

used in Cutting Preparation Department in a leather shoe
factory:
1. Splitting Machine
2. Stamping Machine (for Upper, Lining & Socks)
3. Embossing Machine (for Upper, Lining & Socks )
4. Screen Printing Table
5. Strap Cutting Machine
6. Circular Lace Cutting Machine
7. Marking Table
8. Crimping Machine
9. Interlining fusing Machine
10. Skiving Machine
 Machines in Cutting Preparation Department

11. Roughening Machine

12. Cut component counting table

There are the following machines or tables/work stations are also

used in Cutting Preparation Department in a sports shoe
factory:

1. High Frequency Machine

2. Welding Machine
3. Screen Printing etc.
SPLITTING MACHINE
 Splitting machine is used to reduce the
thickness of leather cut component of a shoe
as per requirement.
 The thickness of upper and lining materials
plays an important role in shoe making.
 The thickness is depend on the type of shoe
construction.
 So the thickness of upper and lining should
be checked properly before start of cutting.
 For this a small piece of leather should be
taken and thickness should be checked with
the help of a m.m. thickness gauge.
 The leveling of the splitting machine should
be done properly .
 Before start of bulk production splitting
should be checked properly.
 SPLITTING MACHINE
 The appropriate required thickness is decided by the Chief
designer or Production designer and it should be mentioned in
the “Technical show board” .
 To measure the thickness there is a m.m. thickness gauge is
used to measure the thickness of the leather.
 The thickness after splitting should be checked by the splitting
machine operator on regular interval.
 Any lackness may create big problem in the production.
Specially in case if splitting is done on the lower thickness.
Stamping Machine (Upper)

 Stamping(Upper) machine is used for cut

component printing for a shoe.

 In general the following information are

printed on the upper components:
• Article Number
• Size
• Pair Number
• Plan Number or series number

 The printing machine operator do

stamping as per detail given in the job
card for a particular article.
Stamping Machine (Upper)

The printing should be done on grain side of the

components in the hidden parts like Underlay allowance
or lasting allowance in a such way no printing should
visible after completion of the shoe.

The printing can be done either with foil or without foil.

The purpose of use of any foil during upper printing to

increase the visibility of printing. So the colour of the
foil should be selected accordingly.

e.g. Printing Foil colour may be taken either White,Golden or

Silver for Black upper.
Stamping Machine (Lining)

 Stamping(Lining) machine is used for cut

component printing for a shoe.

 In general the following information are

printed on the Tongue Lining components or
inside quarter lining
• Article Number,
• Size
• Pair Number
• Plan Number or series number
• Month & year of manufacturing (optional-
printed if customer asked)

 The printing machine operator do stamping

as per detail given in the job card for a
particular article.
Stamping Machine (Lining)
 The other printing should be done on grain side of the
components in the hidden parts like Underlay allowance or
lasting allowance in a such way no printing should visible
after completion of the shoe.

 The printing can be done either with foil or without foil.

 The purpose of use of any foil during Lining printing to

increase the visibility of printing. So the colour of the foil
should be selected accordingly.

 Printing Foil colour should be taken as per customer

requirement.
Embossing Machine (for Upper, Lining & Socks )
 Heat embossing machine is used for
embossing work on the shoe upper , lining
or socks as per specified by the customer.

 There is a stamp is made according to the

artwork given by the customer.

 The stamp should be made accurately. For

this computerized option may be taken.

 Manual option is cheaper but not accurate

as computer made stamp.

 For a perfect embossing

Screen Printing
• Screen Printing is one of very important part of
any shoe industry.

• For screen printing there is a screen used on

which required artwork /design is developed.

• In general screen printing is done on socks

lining as a logo or brand printing e.g.

• Some times any specific detail may be printed

on tongue lining or quarter lining .
Strap Cutting Machine
 Strap Cutting Machine
This machine is used to cut straps /laces for various shoes.
The width can be selected according to the requirement of the
shoe.
e.g. In boat shoes the width of laces can be 6 mm.

In moccasin shoes width of laces can taken

4 mm to 8 mm.
MARKING TABLE
• Marking is one of important process in
shoe making.
• For marking there is a team do marking
work as per requirement.

• A big tables is placed for marking team.

• Marking patterns are issued for various
sizes for a particular article.
• For Marking the selection of any
pencil/pen is based according to the type of
leather.
• e.g.
Burnish , Nappa, milled, crazy horse
or Oil pull up any colour - Silver pen
Nubuck or suede leather any colour-
White pencil
Sometimes black HB pencils can be used
in case of white/off white leathers.
 Crimping Machine
Picture Crimping Machine After crimping (Boot vamp)
 Crimping Machine
So, what is crimping? When you create..
let’s say a riding boot, you will face a
geometrical problem: the vamp is
impossible to fold. Look:
Normally we would choose a line, like this.. if it
would be a shoe. But choosing this line means
that we just won’t be able to last our upper. So
does this look right
 Crimping Machine
So we can create final boot after
Still not good. What we need to create a curved crimping like this.
folding line – that’s what we call crimping.

The correct curve for folding would look like

this:
Interlining Fusing Machine
 Interlining Fusing Machine
• Interlining can be used to provide extra strength to the upper
if the thickness of upper is less than the required thickness.
• Interlining helps to get proper shape retain after lasting
process even for the lower thickness leather.
• The selection of interlining is depend on the type of leather.
• The interlining should not change too much the natural
properties of leather like softness, grain structure, flexibility
etc.
• There should be proper temperature and dwell time given
during interlining fusing with the particular upper.
SKIVING MACHINE
 SKIVING MACHINE
• Skiving is a process of reducing the thickness of a shoe
component as per requirement.
• It is usually done on leather and sometimes in case of some
non-leather material also.
• The purpose of skiving :
 To improve the appearance of shoe by removing any sort of
bulkiness caused by overlapping of the shoe component or by
joining of component.
 To make stitching operations more easier by reducing
bulkiness.
 To help in better adhesion.
 To make footwear more comfortable.
 ROUGHENING MACHINE
 This machine is required to remove grain finish of the leather.
 After this fibers structure are appeared on the top of the
leather that gives good adhesion of upper with the sole
during direct injection moulding process.
 It may help to increase better adhesion during attachment of
two footwear components.
 The width of roughing can be get according to the selection of
guide used in the roughing machine as per requirement of the
shoe.
e.g. In gents DIP shoes 5 mm roughing guide can be used .
 CUT COMPONENT COUNTING TABLE
• Cut component counting process is one of essential
part of shoe production.
• To ensure proper cut component distribution on
various closing lines this become very important that
there should be no shortage comes out during
closing operations.
• For this work there is a team which works to ensure
all cut components of a particular article are
complete for a particular pair.
• If they found any shortage they go for re cutting and
make complete pair.