Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Spring Summer 2007
Spring Summer 2007
Theatrical Romance
Hair: Rags & Ringlets
Beauty: Nude Balm Lip
60s Couture
Hair: On the Fringe
Beauty: Defined Eyes
New Opulence
Hair: So Long
Beauty: Pared Down Perfection
Executive Sport
Hair: Casual Fly-away
Beauty: Healthy Glow
What’s hot and what’s not for S/S’07
In Out
Romance Bondage
Light Neutrals Greys
Jewel brights Sludgy greens/browns
White Black
Silk flowers/floral prints Metal chains/chain prints
Beaded/crystal/floral embellishments Excessive woollen layering
Vintage corsetry Illusionary tailoring
Old fashioned corsetry Fabric hip pads
Boning Suiting
Shiny glossed leather Distressed matt leather
Silver Leather Tartan
Shift dress Machine overalls
White cotton shirt White linen kaftan
Parka Trench coat
Pantaloon Wide leg pants
Wedge heels Knee high boots
Platform sandals Lace-up ankle boots/Brogues
Hand-held clutch Oversized laptop bag
Transparent laboratory glasses Black/White-rimmed spectacles
Nude balm lip Full red lips
Rags, curls and hair rolls Twists and plaits
Headpieces, turbans and corsages Bee-keeper hats/Over-sized hoods
Soft baseball cap Hard riding hat
Introduction
Whether her body is glorified with startlingly futuristic designs, fluffed up with
frivolous rags, frills and intricate embellishments, draped in rich, plain colour
or laid bare by sporty workwear, for S/S’07 the female is presented as a
creative, active and sophisticated being. However, within these key looks lies
a blatant paradox for the woman’s role; that of active, confident and able vs.
vulnerable and ‘shielded’ by artificial armour.
S/S’07 sees references from every decade. There are direct connections
to the trends of S/S’06 and A/W’06, yet ideas presented then are taken to
excess. Tailoring is more complex; embellishments more intricate; colour
brighter, accessories more intricately made; the concept of layering which
began as ‘Pretty Layering’ in S/S’06 is at its most dense. This extreme
complexity reflects the representation of the female herself.
In A/W’06 she was both the hunter and the hunted; clothes portrayed her
as dominant, whilst others revealed (by paradoxically covering up) her
vulnerability. In S/S’07, this reaches new levels. In some cases (Back to the
Future, Theatrical Romance) her clothes serve as a mask to hide behind;
similar to the layering of the ‘Superluxe Vagabond’ in A/W’06. At other times,
clothes serve as an ‘open’ expression of natural confidence and power (New
Opulence, 60s Couture, Executive Sport). Overall, there’s a new sexiness
within these new looks: whereas for A/W’06 every area of flesh was covered
up, this season it’s left bare and golden, with a distinct emphasis on the leg.
The extremes to which these styles are demonstrated take this contrast
beyond a mere changing of the seasons.
Another paradox lies in the areas of hair and make-up. Where fashion is
somewhat false and artificial, hair and make-up serve to enhance the
female’s natural perfection, using dramatic, rich-looking metallic make-up,
super-light, even foundations, soft bronzed glows, and shine sprays or hair
gels on the hair. In contrast with clothing, make-up is about ‘taking it off to
put it on’; less is often more.
60s Couture
This concept of modern-day ‘armour’ appears in the more refined form of
luxurious embellishments in 60s Couture (an elaborate version of the ‘New
Structure’ seen in S/S’06). Where some designers abandoned elaborate
beading, others took it to the max, combining it with a distinctly sexy 60s feel to
create a code of ‘fancy’ dress for the modern working woman. It serves as
another kind of artificial uniform for the powerful female.
New Opulence
In contrast to these complex trends, we also see a new simplicity for
S/S’07. Where excessive layering has pointed toward a new individualism
in the past, this comes in the form of a New Opulence (a continuation from
S/S’06 50s Socialite). Here, a refreshing new use of bright, luxurious colour
represents the female as independent and confident, without the need for
designer logos and excessive accessories. Luxury silks and satins come
neatly tailored in jewel-like colours; surfaces are plain, skin is left natural
and flawless. That, for many designers, is enough.
Executive Sport
Following in this simplistic vein, the ‘Continental Chic’ of S/S’06 and the
‘Dressed For Success’ of A/W’06 returns with a sportier, more youthful edge
as Executive Sport. This serves the working female who seeks quality as
well as practicality in an outfit; luxurious fabrics are used to create soft,
fluid shapes in neutral putty shades. Parkas, shorts, hooded tops and
casual suiting are teamed with chunky wedges and hi-gloss handbags to
create a new laid-back wardrobe for the working woman. The designer logo
(huge in the 80s) creeps in here, appearing on some handbags and t-shirts.
Executive Sport is not so much armour, but a comfortable, open, casual
uniform for the active modern woman.
Back to the Future
1. Fendi 2. Dolce & Gabbana 3. Hussein Chalayan 4. Versace
Space age creations made a huge and very striking appearance on the
catwalk for S/S ’07. The trend symbolizes woman as a conveyor-belt android
or machine. She is masculine, yet sexy and feminine. She’s efficient,
hardened and intelligent – capable of anything; yet simultaneously vulnerable
and insecure, in need of a modern-day coat of armour to protect her from
pressure to be the perfect being she is, ironically, portrayed as being here.
Picture Star Wars’ C-3PO; the edgy, car-like costumes in Bladerunner,
combined with the almost doll-like complexions of the animated characters in
the film A.I., and you get the picture. It’s about achieving technical and
physical perfection.
Back to the Future is a paradox, combining couture techniques of the past
with modern fabrics. There’s a hint of 16th century corsetry here, combined
with the Courreges-inspired bubble shapes of the 60s (a continuation of last
season’s ‘Full Volume’ trend), as well as references to Herve Leger’s 1 2
bandage-style clingy dresses and the sharp curve accentuations of Thierry
Mugler, both of the 80s. Modern fabrics like Perspex, richly glossed/patent
leather and PVC are used to replicate and enhance the female curve.
Metallic silver and gold reign supreme, along with plenty of white, a touch of
black and some deep blue. Chunky cut-out wedges with quirky Perspex heels
feature heavily, along with high-glossed leather bags and laboratory-style
transparent sunglasses.
Hussein Chalayan took the Space Age to its most futuristic limits. Whilst
models wore his outfits, their fabric moved automatically by remote control, so
that each piece transformed itself into another. In one instance, a model’s
entire outfit gradually slid up from the floor into the rim of her hat, leaving her
naked; a symbol of the natural vulnerability and softness that lies under this
sleek, hardened robotic ‘uniform’.
Key designers who went Back to the Future: Hussein Chalayan, Fendi, 3 4
Lanvin, Balenciaga, Gareth Pugh, Givenchy, Preen, Versace
Scraped back
To recreate the look: Sam McKnight says “We call this the ‘facelift’ chignon; it
pulls the eyes back and up, making the face look younger and tighter. Wash
and condition your hair, then comb it back off the face and apply an anti-frizz
product or light gel depending on your hair type. Blow-dry, brushing the hair
back, then evenly distribute a styling milk or serum onto your hands and
smooth over the hair, pulling it straight back into a pony tail and fixing firmly in 2
place with a good quality ‘hair elastic’.” To get the wet look, McKnight
recommends a gel spray; “Modern technology means products are light so
there’s no reason to over-saturate the hair; use a light hair gel or shine spray
to avoid making the hair look greasy.”
Key products:
Pantene Pro-V Smooth & Sleek Frizz Taming Styling Milk
3
Pantene
Balenciaga 2. Max Pro-V
Mara 3. LanvinIce Shine
1
1.
Metallic gold and silver eye shadows, creams and theatrical paints are used
to bring light to the face, making it seem more robotic-like, yet at the same
time, more natural. It’s a step towards total perfection. Shadows and creams
are usually smudged on top of the lid or loosely around the eye, to contrast
with the sharp, clean lines of the futuristic fashion. Gold powder or pencils
are applied to the cupid’s bow on the lip to add further depth and shine to
the face. In some cases, shimmery gold body cream is also applied to bare
arms and legs, to create a plastic doll-like appearance; as if models have
come off a conveyor belt. Like the intricately tailored fashion of Back to the
Future, metallic make-up serves to create an overall look that screams luxury,
wealth, health and physical perfection.
Key products:
Max Factor Colour Perfection Duo Eyeshadow in Dawning Gold
Max Factor Earth Spirits Eyeshadow in Inca Bronze
1 3
This season, vivid red and berry lipsticks are abandoned in favour of nude
balms and lightly tinted glosses in colours like peach, flame and rose.
By simply applying a slick of balm to an already fresh rosy lip, the face
automatically appears healthier and younger. The nude lip is one of the
definitive beauty looks for Spring/Summer, teamed not exclusively with
the Theatrical Romance style but across the majority of fashion trends.
Here, by keeping lips as natural as possible, the excessively theatrical fashion
seems less frivolous, ironically, than it would if it was teamed
with excessive, vivid lipstick.
Key products:
Max Factor Lipfinity Top Coat
Max Factor Lipfinity in Subtle Sienna or Creamy Latte
Max Factor Colour & Gloss in Crystal Bronze or Glazed Caramel
1 3
1. Donna Karan 2. Calvin Klein 3. Celine
Theatrical Romance Summary
Theatrical Romance sees today’s woman at her most frivolous and playful.
Frothy frills and layers add flamboyancy to the look, along with rags, flowers
and corsages in the hair. The nude lip saves the overall appearance from
seeming like a pantomime, and complements the cream and pastel colours
used in the clothing with subtlety.
60s Couture
The 60s shift dress makes a big comeback for S/S’07, and it comes adorned
and encrusted with plenty of rich-looking beads, jewels, ruffles and brooches.
It’s all about retro luxury, with a touch of the Edie Sedgwick/Warhol
Pop Art era to it (as seen with Lanvin’s projection of photographic
portraits on dresses), but with added gloss and decoration. The overall look:
rich opulence combined with youthful sexiness; yet its complete excess
represents a kind of luxury ‘uniform’ for today’s demanding lifestyle.
Tailoring is simplified with this trend, the detail comes in the form of prints and
embellishments. In Back to the Future, we see a strong reference
to Courreges; here, again, his shapes and styles feature but are less
space-age and more vintage-inspired. These 60s couture pieces come
adorned and printed with 70s retro patchwork patterns and paisley prints.
Satin, cotton, silk and organza are combined within each outfit, along with
an array of colour. Tobacco, ochre, brown, purple, white and powder blue 2
are the colours of the day, alongside neon colours from the 80s, such as
tangerine orange, fuchsia pink, lime green and turquoise. Silver, black
patent leather and PVC are also key.
The shift dress becomes the new day-to-evening solution for any working
woman (often worn over a white shirt, as seen at Chloe) and replaces the
wrap-around dress popular last summer. Accessories are just as retro.
There are flat-heeled patent leather sandals adorned with crystals and
beads; super-chunky wedges with cut-out Perspex heels, and office-style
platform T-bars. Coloured Perspex bangles, high gloss belts and bags
complete the look. It’s one of overt, excessive luxury and opulence.
Designers who went 60’s Couture: Chloe, Emilio Pucci, Lanvin, Yves Saint
Laurent, Gucci, Anna Molinari, Karl Lagerfeld
Signature fragrance for 60s Couture: Valentino Rock ‘n’ Rose
1 3
1. Gucci 2. Chloe 3. Lanvin
Geometric Cut
The fringe makes a bold appearance; it’s usually door-step thick and
dramatically choppy. Hair is cut in a jagged fashion to create edgy,
asymmetrical lines around the face, and at the back of the head.
This new geometry complements the quirkiness of the 60s Couture
fashion. It’s a natural, raw jaggedness, as opposed to a rigorously styled
‘hair salon creation’, and is seen in both long and short hair. This look
is somewhat futuristic, yet at the same time, maintains elements of the
styles seen in the 60s. It’s natural and organic, and complements the
artistic nature of the pop-inspired fashion.
Key products:
1 3
1. Christian Lacroix 2. Fendi 3. Missoni
Pantene Pro-V Smooth & Sleek
Be Sleek MoussePantene Pro-
Defined Eyes
Eyebrows are neatly groomed and ‘filled in’ with small strokes of black and
mink eye pencils. Smudgy black eyeliners and shadows are applied loosely
around the eye to create ‘morning-after’ sexiness. Individual false eyelashes
are applied to the outer corner of the eye for added ‘fluttery’ impact. Lashes
are then coated in volumising mascara. It’s a sexy, modern look which goes
against the immaculate perfection seen in previous seasons created with
liquid eyeliners and obvious ‘spidery’ false lashes; this is softer, warmer and
less articulate. It’s about being laid-back and confident with one’s own natural
features; and with so much embellishment on the 60s Couture clothing,
there’s no need to over-paint the face.
Key products:
Max Factor Masterpiece MAX mascara in Black or Brown
Max Factor Eyebrow Pencil in Hazel or Ebony
Max Factor Colour Perfection Duo Eyeshadow in Moonshine Meadows
1 3
1. Gucci 2. Karl Lagerfeld 3. Lanvin
60s Couture Summary
Beads, crystals and jewels adorn 60s shifts to create a new vintage couture
with a modern, youthful edge. Patent leather platform shoes and retro
patchwork patterns continue the 60s vibe, along with choppy, edgy fringes
and smudged black eyes and fluttery lashes. It’s a look for day or for night; for
work and play and is, above all, sexy and feminine.
New Opulence
Having been absent for at least four seasons, bright colour – usually in plain,
jewel-like blocks – returns to symbolize a New Opulence; a modern, simplistic
take on the Hollywood golden age. Here, colour becomes a statement by
itself. Where rich embellishments feature in the 60s Couture and Theatrical
Romance trends, there are none to be seen here. Colours are rich and
flamboyant, yet the way in which they are worn - uncluttered blocks, clean
shapes, expensive fabrics - means it’s less about blatant exhibitionism and
more about a new-found confidence. Burgundy, teal, acid lemon, champagne
yellow, deep jade, apple green, royal blue, pillar box red, fuchsia and
tangerine orange all feature. In their consistent simplicity, they represent a
new take on luxury and richness.
Miuccia Prada led the way for this new trend. Her jewel-bright satin tops,
tunics and short skirts came in plain, unbroken blocks save for a curve-
accentuating leather belt tied around the waist. Tailoring is intricate, but the 2
surface of the fabric is always left plain. Sophisticated 40s style turbans are
worn on the head to add elegance and sophistication to the look, whilst
matching satin rucksacks provide a glamorous, if not a little ironic, accessory
for today’s busy woman.
This rich and very simple use of colour represents a new female confidence.
Last season, the Superluxe Vagabond represented a new individualistic way
of dressing. The oversized layering of gloves, socks and knitwear screamed
‘look at me’ yet at the same time ‘don’t look at me’. The New Opulence trend
reflects this same confident yet introverted attitude.
Designers who reveled in New Opulence: Prada, DKNY, Jil Sander, Preen,
Paul Smith, Sophia Kokosalaki, Christopher Kane, Emmanuel Ungaro, Alice
McCall, Valentino, Lanvin
Signature fragrance for New Opulence: Femme by Boss
1 3
1. Carolina Herrera 2. Prada 3. Jil Sander
So Long
Naturally long hair makes a strong appearance on the catwalk for S/S ’07,
and is always rich with health (i.e. wealth) and shine. Hair extensions and
artificial tresses from last season are abandoned in favour of naturally thick,
long locks which are usually all the same length, as seen at Prada and
Blumarine. Sometimes the hair is slightly wavy; at others it is straight and
thick. It is always rich in shine. This glossiness complements the rich shine
of the luxury fabrics seen in the New Opulence trend.
Key products:
Pantene Pro-V Ice Shine Volume & Shine Mousse
System Professional Shimmer Spray
Sebastian Laminates Drops
Sebastian Laminates Concentrate Gel
Wellaflex Brilliant Colors Mousse
Wellaflex Brilliant Colors Spray Gel
1 3
1. Prada 2. Blumarine 3. Chloe
Pared Down Perfection
To complement the rich sheen of the opulent silks and satins, the face is
given an even, perfected complexion that emphasizes the idea of natural
health (i.e. wealth). It is minimal and clean. A light covering of soft, creamy
foundation is applied, then tissued off. The face is then dusted with a little
face powder. The overall effect is one of matte perfection, as opposed to
a shiny or ‘sweaty’ glow. It’s about fresh, youthful skin in its most natural,
confident form. This natural, pared down look pervaded the majority of
fashion trends for Spring/Summer, making it one of the season’s defining
beauty trends.
Key products:
Olay Total Effects 7X Mask
Max Factor Age Renew Foundation
Max Factor Pan-Stik
1 3
1. Bottega Veneta 2. Hussein Chalayan 3. Paul Smith
New Opulence Summary
New Opulence is a celebration of wealth and luxury. The simplicity of the use
of colour – where embellishments and patterns are scarce – and the classic
use of tailoring, mean that both the quality of the fabric, and the exotic shade
in which it is dyed, become paramount. Accessories take a back seat. Rich
sleek glossy hair and almost perfect complexions suggest a further natural
confidence in one’s wealth and self-made luxury.
Executive Sport
The office executive’s clothes are beautifully tailored with soft, clean shapes;
made from luxury silks, wools and cashmere, they’re aimed at the powerful
female consumer. Embellishments and frills are scarce; it’s about shape as
opposed to colour or pattern here. Layering is also common. Colours remain
neutral; taupes, beiges and whites are key. The blouson-style parka replaces
the more formal and restrictive trench coat.
The classic white dress shirt forms another staple. Hooded tops are worn with 2
tailored trousers, romper suits combine swimwear with the more traditional
hot pant/city short. At Marc Jacobs, baseball caps and flamboyant metallic
head corsages are teamed with combat-style pants and jackets. Designer
handbags are evident but are not as oversized as last season; designer logos
appear on some. Shoes come in the form of bejewelled ‘platform’ flats, super-
chunky wedge heels or tennis pumps. It’s both frivolous and serious. Soft and
feminine, but with a distinct air of ‘combat’ about them; these clothes define a
comfortable, sexy working wardrobe for the active urban career women.
Designers who went sporty: Stella McCartney, Dries van Noten, Marc Jacobs,
Paul Smith, Michael Kors, Pringle, Issey Miyake, Loewe, Cacharel, Celine,
MaxMara
1 3
1. Dries Van Noten 2. Stella McCartney 3. Michael Kors
Casual Flyaway
Key products:
Pantene Pro-V Smooth & Sleek Comb in Cream
Pantene Pro-V Smooth & Sleek Intense Anti-Frizz Serum
Sebastian Laminates Anti-Frizz Hairspray
Sebastian Evocativ Nudist Leave-In Smoothing Serum
Sebastian Originals Potion 9
Wella ShockWaves Wonder Frizz Fighter Mousse
Wella ShockWaves Foaming Wax
Wella ShockWaves Texturising Gum
1 3
1. Sportmax 2. Biba 3. Etro
Healthy Glow
Key products: 2
Max Factor Age Renew Foundation
Max Factor Loose Powder
Max Factor Flawless Perfection Blush
1 3
1. Stella McCartney 2. Oscar de la Renta 3. Pringle of Scotland
Executive Sport Summary
Executive Sport represents a new working wardrobe for the active career
woman. It is sexy and feminine, yet practical. Her hair and make-up
symbolise natural health and inner confidence. The urban executive is
in control because of her natural vigour; she has no need for masculine
working attire to relay that quality.
Top 10 Fashion Must Haves
1. Chanel Perspex Cut-Out Wedges 2. Balenciaga Transparent Lab Glasses 3. Paul Smith White Dress Shirt 4.Louis Vuitton High-Gloss Monogrammed
Bag 5. Chloe Beaded Shift Dress 6. Kenzo Rainbow Stacked Bangles with Attached Clutch 7. Prada Satin Turban 8. Marc Jacobs Gem-Encrusted White
Leather Crystal Heels 9. Fendi Logo Clutch 10. Louis Vuitton Embellished Logo t-shirt
1 2 3 4 5
6 7 8 9 10
Top 5 Beauty Must Haves
Defined Eyes Max Factor Masterpiece MAX Mascara Geometric Cut Wella ShockWaves Tame It! Straightening Cream
Pared Down Perfection Olay Total Effects 7X Mask Nude Balm Lip Max Factor Lipfinity Top Coat
Scraped Back Pantene Pro-V Smooth & Sleek Frizz Taming Styling Milk