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McKenzie Janisz, Nicholas Kurth,

Julianna Saez
M.A.T.E.S. Academy
Observation of Dune Height and Wind Speed Discussion
T-tests were used to analyze wind speed v.s. both the difference in heights and dune height relative to
calibration (the latter being a record of the weekly change in height of the dune) to find a correlation. The p-

along the Barnegat Peninsula


value for all of the stakes range from 0.0000000234 to 0.0000001244. Since all values were significantly
smaller than 0.05, the data goes against the null hypothesis: wind speed has no effect on dune growth. This
January 24, 2020 means that wind plays an important role in sand redistribution for sand dunes, and with the seasonal trend
of strong coastal storms during the winter months, such as nor’easters, dune erosion is very likely to occur
(“Science of the Shore”). The value of covariance of the dune height relative to calibration vs. wind speed
were all greater than the value of 0, meaning that all the locations display a strong and positive correlation

Abstract (weekly change in dune height strongly correlates with wind speed). A similar analysis also applies for the
covariance values with the difference between heights v.s. wind speed; however, these values are much closer
The objectives of the study are to bring awareness to dune replenishment along the coast and
analyze the effect that strong winds have on dune growth in both replenished and unreplenished
areas. The problem of coastal erosion was researched in accordance with the project in order to
To monitor the change in dune height as a result of wind patterns associated to 0, and stake 2 has an inverse correlation with wind speed (wind speed does not have much of an effect on
that location’s dune height). Due to the unusual covariance value of stake 2 that does not align with the rest
of the data, it has been determined as an outlier. Although the experiment had a goal to observe the
understand the effectiveness of artificial beach replenishment. Over the course of October 2019
leading into January 2020, dune heights and wind speeds were measured weekly and tracked using
wooden stakes at the top of four dunes. Two of the stakes were located at Island Beach State Park (an
with the fall and winter months (October - January) differences in data between the replenished and unreplenished sites, there was not enough significant
difference calculated between the stakes collected from each location a connection to be identified.
Dunes are essential in the protection from coastal hazards, which include coastal storms, erosion,
unreplenished location), and the other two were located at Brighton Avenue Beach, an area which and flooding. As well as serving as a barrier for human infrastructure, dunes also maintain the sand supply
regularly undergoes dune replenishment to protect the beach from damaging coastal erosion. This for the beaches that they are a part of (“Why dunes are important”). By recording and understanding the
analysis encapsulated both a t-test and covariance test to find the correlation between wind speed effects of wind speed on the sand distribution of beach dunes, future projects, such as replenishments, can be
and dune growth. Though no significant difference was found between the replenished and planned in order to properly preserve dune widths and to prevent coastal erosion from strong weather
unreplenished location, a rigorous analysis resulted in the finding of a correlation was found,
Results events.
supporting the hypothesis that increased wind speed would produce an increase in dune growth.
Methodology Although a correlation between wind speed and changes in dune height was determined, the
experiment itself contained a few flaws that may have affected the results. It should be noted that the test was
Study Site(s):
originally planned to use eight stakes in order to measure all of the overall changes in both the bottom as well
On October 8, 2019, research began on Barnegat Peninsula at Brighton Ave Beach (located
as the top of the dunes. Unfortunately, due to unforeseen weather events, the majority of the bottom stakes
between C Street and Brighton Avenue) and Island Beach State Park. The area of study at Brighton Ave Beach
were lost or buried underneath the sand and were unable to gather a purposeful amount of data for an
typically undergoes beach replenishment projects as a way to preserve the beach from erosion. Meanwhile,
analysis. Another setback that could have been improved on was the consistency of data collection. Due to
Island Beach State Park is experiencing no beach replenishment methods to combat erosion — meaning that
unstable weather conditions, there were some weeks where data was unable to be properly recorded. Based
the beach is natural. By using both locations with varying conditions, a better understanding of the wind’s
on these errors, a future study with more data points would be more efficient in gathering a greater range of
effect on dune height can be analyzed.
data for a better in-depth analysis.
Procedure:
1. Stake Development
- Four stakes of wood, ranging from 22.86 centimeters (9 inches) to 30.48 centimeters (12 inches)
were acquired.
- A line was made across the middle of the wooden piece, approximately at 11.43 centimeters Conclusion
(4.5 inches) or 15.24 centimeters (6 inches). The primary aim of this project was to analyze sand redistribution of replenished and unreplenished
- Additional markings were made at every quarter centimeter for the entirety of the piece.
beaches with respect to wind speed in dunes along the Barnegat Peninsula, and more holistically, the New
- At every centimeter, a number was assigned according to whether or not the marking was above or
below the respective halfway mark. Jersey Coastline. Due to the increased volume of coastal storms that erode the shore during the winter
- The halfway mark was numbered 0. months, it was hypothesized that the increased wind speeds at Island Beach State Park and Brighton Avenue
- Every centimeter above the 0 mark was given a positive value, while every centimeter below Figure 3: A comparison of the measured dune height relative to calibration v.s date of data Figure 4: A comparison of the measured dune height relative to calibration v.s date of data
Beach would produce significant dune growth at these locations. Using wooden stakes to measure change in
was given a negative value measurement and difference between heights v.s. date of data measurement at Stake 1, measurement and difference between heights v.s. date of data measurement at Stake 2,
Island Beach State Park. Error bars with a standard deviation of 5% are displayed. Island Beach State Park. Error bars with a standard deviation of 5% are displayed.
- The previous two steps were done for all four wooden pieces. After this task, numbers were coastal dune height, the change in dune height, in both unreplenished and replenished dune areas, was
assigned to each wooden piece (1, 2, 3, or 4) and they were officially termed a stake. significant in relation to the wind speed measured at both locations. Overall, there was a strong correlation
1. Placement, Measurement, and Removal of Stakes
between wind speed and dune height, supporting the belief that the sand distribution of coastal dunes would
- The study was centered at Island Beach State Park and Brighton Ave Beach.
- Two of the stakes (1 and 2) were placed in the dunes at Island Beach State Park approximately 0.5 experience a significant increase during the winter months in New Jersey. This research was also vital to
kilometers away from the park’s entrance. Meanwhile, the other two stakes (3 and 4) were placed understanding dune erosion; dunes are the frontline of defence against coastal flooding and without them,
at the dunes near the Brighton Avenue entrance (stake 3) and near the C Street entrance (stake 4).
coastline towns and establishments would be severely damaged during each major winter storm. For future
Each stake was placed in locations that are easily accessed and observed for proper measurements
and maintenance (if applicable). The placing of the stakes took place on October 8, 2019. studies, more locations could be tested along the shore to gather more data, as well as a greater
- Once a week, the stakes were monitored and the marking that indicates the dune height was understanding of the differences between dunes at replenished and unreplenished beaches.
recorded. Additional information was also recorded weekly, including the weather, possible
precipitation, and observations.
- The previous steps continued for a total of 13 weeks; and on January 14, 2020, the stakes were
removed from the dune tops. Acknowledgements
Statistical Analysis
Figure 1 and 2: A map of the Barnegat Peninsula. The top map is of Stakes 1 and 2 at We would like to sincerely thank Mr. Werner for allowing us to work on and for overseeing our project
Island Beach State Park, while the bottom map is of Stakes 3 and 4 at Brighton Ave Beach. A t-test and test for covariance were applied to the data in order to analyze statistical significance and
Stakes were calibrated at all locations on October 15, 2019. correlation. Using an alpha value of 0.05, the t-test was used to check for correlation between wind speed, through completion. We would also like to thank the students who aided with the design and measurement of
relativity to calibration, and difference between dune heights; furthermore, the t-test was used to determine the stakes used in the experiment. Finally, our gratitude goes out to the Marine Academy of Technology and
the rejection or acceptance of the null hypothesis: an increase does not affect dune growth. Alternatively, the
Environmental Science for granting this opportunity to test out such an experiment and for supplying the

Introduction covariance between wind speed, relativity to calibration, and difference between dune heights was used to
analyze the possible linear correlation between parameters and to identify and trends. Figure 5: A comparison of the measured dune height relative to calibration v.s date of data
measurement and difference between heights v.s. date of data measurement at Stake 3,
Figure 6: comparison of the measured dune height relative to calibration v.s date of data
measurement and difference between heights v.s. date of data measurement at Stake 4,
necessary equipment.
Over the years, coastal erosion has become a large problem that beaches globally are facing. With over half of Brighton Ave Beach. Error bars with a standard deviation of 5% are displayed. Brighton Ave Beach. Error bars with a standard deviation of 5% are displayed.
the world’s population living within fifty miles of the coast, the detrimental change of shorelines has been
brought to the forefront of conservation efforts, with beach replenishment programs taking place worldwide in
order to restore and protect these beaches (“What Percentage”). Composed of loose grains, ranging in size
“between 1/16 mm to 2 mm in diameter,” sand is created by the breaking down of rocks and transferred to
References
beaches via wind (“Sand”). The distribution of sand is affected by coastal weather such as hurricanes and Table 1: A table of the recorded wind speeds and the relative to calibration dune height and difference between heights at each of the four stakes. Dissanayake, Pushpa, et al. “Effects of Storm Clustering on Beach/Dune Evolution.” Marine
Below each are the t-tests and covariances for the respective stakes. An alpha value of 0.05 was used to compare the p-values.
nor’easters, causing large-scale shifts over the shape of coastlines and slowly eroding the barrier between the
Geology, Elsevier, 19 Oct. 2015. Web. 23 Sept. 2019.
land and sea. Intense weather along the shore can cause an increase in coastal flooding due to the erosion
Stake 1 Stake 2 Stake 3 Stake 4
these storms cause; as such, frontal dunes, either artificially or naturally constructed mounds of sand and "Dune Protection and Improvement." State of Delaware. Delaware.gov, n.d. Web. 24 Jan. 2020.
Wind Speed Relative to Calibration Difference between Heights Relative to Calibration Difference between Heights Relative to Calibration Difference between Heights Relative to Calibration Difference between Heights
vegetation, are proven key components in preventing inundation along the shore (Sloss et al.). The length and
Luo, Shilong, Yuheng Siu, Ruifang Jin, and Jinpeng Zhang. "A Guide to Coastal Management: Benefits and
intensity of coastal storms contribute significantly to the destruction of dunes, providing the need for beach 41 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Lessons Learned of Beach Nourishment Practices in China over the past Two Decades." Ocean &
replenishment in order to maintain a strong natural boundary against the sea and flooding (Dissanayake). 14 1 1 -1 -1 -0.5 -0.5 -0.5 -0.5
Coastal Management (2016): n. pag. Elsevier. Elsevier, 18 Oct. 2016. Web. 22 Jan. 2020.
Beach nourishment, or replenishment, “comprises the placement of large quantities of good quality sand with 19 2 1 -1.5 -0.5 -0.75 -0.25 -0.25 0.25
the nearshore system usually to address a continuing deficit of sand” to either increase beach width or 11 2.25 0.25 -2 -0.5 0.5 1.25 -0.25 0 “Sand." World of Earth Science. Encyclopedia.com. 16 Sep. 2019.

artificially create a new beach (Lou et al.). The sustainability of each dune varies widely based on storm 18 2.25 0 -1.75 0.25 0.5 0 0 0.25 "Science of the Shore – A Tale of Two Beaches: Winter & Summer Beach Profiles." Friends of Island
activity in the area, and wind speed consistently shows a complex relationship with dunes in the intensity of 20 2.25 0 -2 -0.25 0.5 0 0 0 Beach State Park. N.p., n.d. Web. 22 Jan. 2020.
sand distribution along the shore in both unreplenished and replenished dunes. 6 2.25 0 0 2 0.25 -0.25 -0.75 -0.75 Sloss, Craig R., Michael Sheperd, and Patrick Hesp. "Coastal Dunes: Geomorphology." Nature News. Nature
In order to detect a pattern in dune growth during the research period, Island Beach State Park
18 2.5 0.25 0 0 0 -0.25 -0.25 0.5 Publishing Group, 2012. Web. 24 Jan. 2020.
and Brighton Avenue Beach were profiled between October 2019 and January 2020 to monitor the depth of
26 3 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.25 1.25 -0.5 -0.25
change in these locations. Utilizing measured stakes and tracking wind speed on a weekly basis, wind speed Williamson-Rea, Jacob, and Scott Spitzer. "To Improve Dunes, Plant More Beach Grass." Penn Today.
25 3.25 0.25 0.75 0.25 1 -0.25 -0.25 0.25
and dune height will be collected in order to build a profile on sand distribution with respect to the wind. University of Pennsylvania, 15 Oct. 2018. Web. 24 Jan. 2020.
20 3 -0.25 1 0.25 1 0 -0.75 -0.5
From this, the study aims to analyze the correlation between wind speed and dune growth to further extend
“What Percentage of the American Population Lives Near the Coast?” National Ocean Service,
19 3 0 1 0 1 0 -0.5 0.25
the results onto the larger issue of beach replenishment as a prospect for protecting beaches from coastal
erosion. Due to increased storm activity along New Jersey’s coastline during the winter months, this project 17 3 0 1 0 0.75 -0.25 -0.25 0.25 NOAA, 25 June 2018. Web. 23 Nov. 2019.

will be based on the proposed hypothesis that increased wind speed will produce significant change and 13 3 0 0.75 -0.25 0.75 0 -0.5 -0.25
“Why Dunes Are Important .” Waikato Regional Council. Waikato Regional Council, n.d. Web.
increase in dune size and sand redistribution among both the unreplenished and replenished beaches. T-Test (Col. 3 v.s. Col. 2) 0.0000001244 T-Test (Col. 5 v.s. Col. 2) 0.00000002341 T-Test (Col. 7 v.s. Col. 2) 0.00000003291 T-Test (Col. 9 v.s. Col. 2) 0.00000002551
From the collected data, an analysis will be conducted to estimate sand redistribution in the research period to Covariance (Col. 3 v.s. Col. 2) 1.358 Covariance (Col. 5 v.s. Col. 2) 1.385 Covariance (Col. 7 v.s. Col. 2) 1.161 Covariance (Col. 9 v.s. Col. 2) 0.3521 23 Jan. 2020.

determine which locations may be more susceptible to coastal flooding. It is fitting to believe that the sand T-Test (Col. 4 v.s. Col. 2) 0.00000004075 T-Test (Col. 6 v.s. Col. 2) 0.00000005575 T-Test (Col. 8 v.s. Col. 2) 0.00000003454 T-Test (Col. 10 v.s. Col. 2) 0.00000002589
distribution amongst dunes will display a significant linear correlation of change in value due to the increased Covariance (Col. 4 v.s. Col. 2) 0.1805 Covariance (Col. 6 v.s. Col. 2) -0.7337 Covariance (Col. 8 v.s. Col. 2) 0.38166 Covariance (Col. 10 v.s. Col. 2) 0.8417
amount of coastal storms impacting the New Jersey shoreline during the research period.

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