CUTTING EQUIPMENTS

CUTTING PROCESS
CUTTING IS THE PREPRODUCTION
PROCESS OF SEPARATING
(SECTIONING,CARVING,SEVERING) A
SPREAD INTO GARMENT PARTS THAT
ARE THE PRECISE SIZE AND SHAPE OF
THE PATTERN PIECES ON A MARKER.
IT MAY ALSO INVOLVE TRANSFERING
MARKS AND NOTCHES FROM THE
MARKER TO GARMENT PARTS TO
ASSIST OPERATORS IN SEWING.
CUTTING EQUIPMENTS
THE EQUIPMENTS USED IN
CUTTING PROCESS ARE CALLED
CUTTING EQUIPMENTS.
PORTABLE CUTTING KNIVES
STATIONARY CUTTERS
SERVO CUTTERS
SPECIALIZED CUTTING MACHINES
EQUIPMENTS FOR
TRANSFERRING MARKS.
PORTABLE KNIVES
CAN BE MOVED TO AND THROUGH
A SPREAD BY AN OPERATOR.

1.VERTICALRECIPROCATING
STRAIGHT KNIVES
2.ROUND KNIVES
STRUCTURALLY AND MECHANICALLY THESE
TWO TYPES OF MACHINE SHARE MANY
SIMILARITIES. STRUCTURALLY BOTH TYPE OF
KNIVES HAVE A BASE PLATE,POWER SYSTEM,
HANDLE,CUTTING BLADE,SHARPENING DEVICE,
AND BLADE GUARD.
VERTICAL STRAIGHT KNIVES
VERTICAL STRAIGHT
KNIVES WITH
RECIPROCATING
BLADES ARE THE
KNIGHT OF CUTTING.
CUT WITH A UP AND
DOWN ACTION.
MOST COMMONLY USED
STRAIGHT KNIVES
 BLADES VARY IN LENGTH FROM 6 TO 14 INCHES.
 BLADE LENGTH AND THE ADJUSTABLE HEIGHTS OF THE
BLADE GUARD ARE FACTORS IN DETERMINING THE
SPREAD DEPTH.THAT CAN BE CUT.
 THE 90 DEGREE ANGLE OF THE NARROW ,THIN BLADE
TO THE CUTTING SURFACE MAKES THIS KNIFE A GOOD
CCHOICE FOR ACCURATELY CUTTING SHARP
CORNERS,ANGLES AND CURVES.
 MAKE ONLY LATARAL CUTS INTO A SPREAD
 CANNOT BE USED TO CUT OUT AREAS FROM THE
CENTRE OF GARMENT PARTS.
 TO REMOVE A SECTION OF FABRIC WITHOUTCUTTING
INTO THE AREAS REQUIRES A SLASHER.
 ADAPTED VERSION OF A VERTICAL KNIVES
 IT CUTS INTO THE SPREAD FROM ABOVE MUCH THE
SAME AS A JIGSAW AND CUTS AROUND THE SECTION OF
FABRIC TO BE REMOVED.
ROTARY OR ROUND
KNIVES
 A ROUND BLADE THAT CUTS WITH A
DOWNWARD TURN ATBTHE LEADING EDGE.
 OPERATES WITH A ONE WAY THRUST
 TTING CAPACITY IS DETERMINED

BY THE RADIUS OF THE BLADE,

MOTOR SIZE AND SPEED.
 CANNOT MANIPULATE AROUND

TIGHT CURVES AND SHARP

ANGLES.
 USED FOR ST.CUTS AND LARGE

RADIUS CURVES.
 BASIC COMPONENTS
OF
PORTABLE KNIVES
BLADES
1. ARE MOUNTED IN A VERTICAL POSITION.
2. VARY IN SHAPE,SIZES,CUTTING ACTION AND
EDGE FINENESS.
3. AFFECT THE QUALITY OF CUT
4. MAY BE FLAT SURFACE,SAW
TOOTHED,SERRATED, OR WAVY WITH A
STRIATED SURFACES
BASE PLATE
SUPPORTING FOUNDATION TO
BALANCE THE CUTTING.
VARY IN SHAPE,SIZES DEPENDING
UPON THE SIZE AND WEIGHT OF THE
KNIFE
GUIDES THE KNIFE IN RELATION WITH
THE CUTTING TABLE
THEY ARE SUPPORTED BY BERAING
ROLLERS
EDGE OF THE PLATE IS SLOPED
POWER SYSTEM
CONTROLS THE MOTOR AND
POTENTIAL CUTTING SPEED
THE AMOUNT OF POWER NEEDED TO
CUT A SPREAD DEPENDS ON THE
HEIGHT OF THE SPREAD AND THE
DENSITY OF THE FABRIC TO BE CUT
HORSEPOWER DETERMINES THE
AMOUNT OF THRUST
HIGHER SPEED MEANS KNIFE MOVING
FASTER
GREATER HORSEPOWER INCREASES
MACHINE POWER AND WEIGHT ALSO
SHARPENING DEVICE
APPROPRIATE FOR THE SPECIFIC
BLADE TYPES
BLADES DULL QUICKLY WHEN
CUTTING A DEEP SPREAD OR
DENSE FABRIC
PREVENTS ROUGH ,FRAYED,OR
FUSED EDGES
MAY BE STONE OR EMERY
WHEELS OR ABRASIVE BET
SHARPENERS
HANDLE
TO GRIP,GUIDE AND PROPEL THE
KNIFE THROUGH THE SPREAD
BLADE GUARD
RESTS ON THE TOP PLY TO HELP
STABILIZE THE SPREAD AND TO
PROTECT THE OPERATOR’S HAND
METAL MESH GLOVES ARE ALSO
AVAILABLE AS A SAFETY DEVICE
STATIONERY CUTTERS
ARE THOSE CUTTING MACHINES
THAT HAVE BLADES OR CUTTING
DEVICES THAT REMAIN IN FIXED
POSITION
TWO BASIC TYPES

1.BAND KNIVES
2.DIE CUTTERS
BAND KNIFE
BAND KNIFE
 FINE BLADES THAT ROTATE THROGH A SLOT
IN THE CUTTING TABLE
 CAN BE USED TO MAKE ONLY LATERAL CUTS
 BLADES ARE FINER AND NARROWER THAN
RECIPROCATING BLADES
 TEMPLATES OF PLASTICS OR HEAVY
CARDBOARD MAY BE PLACED ON ON TOP OF
A SECTIONED BLOCK TO PROVIDE A GUIDE
FOR CUTTING SPECIFIC SHAPES
 SAFETY CONCERNS ARE MORE
DIE CUTTING
MOST ACCURATE MEAN OF CUTTING
DIES ARE PRESHAPED METAL
OUTLINES WITH ONE CUTTING EDGE
BASIC PARTS

1. TABLE BLOCK
2. RAM HEAD
3. MOTOR
4. RAM DRIVE
SYSTEM
contd..
 WHEN AN OPERATOR ENGAGES THE
MACHINE,THE RAM HEAD MOVES INTO THE
PLACE ABOVE THE DIE,APPLIES TONS OF
PRESSURE TO THE DIE,RELEASES AND
RETURNS TO POSITION.CUTTING ACTION IS
VERTICAL AS THE RAM PRESSES THE DIE INTO
THE SURFACE OF THE FABRIC.
 FREQUENTLY USED FOR SMALL PIECES OF HIGH
ACCRACY LIKE COLLARS,POCKET FLAPS OR
APPLIQUES
 LEATHER GOODS ARE FREQUENTLY CUT
 CAN ALSO BE USED TO CUT SHAPES FROM THE
CENTER OF THE GARMENT PARTS
contd..
 DIE CUTTING IS LABOR
INTENSIVE WHEN DIES
ARE MANUALLY PLACED
 IT CAN BE AUTOMATED
FOR CONTINUOUS LINE
CUTTING
 A SINGLE DIE FOR A
T SHIRT WOULD CONTAIN
A SINGLE PIECE BODY
UTILIZING A FOLD AT
CENTRE FRONT AND
CENTRE BACK DOVETAILED
WITH A SLEEVE SHAPE.
SERVO CUTTER
 A BRIDGE BETWEEN COMPUTER CONTROLLED AND
MANUAL CUTTING
 OVERHEAD SERVO MOTOR WITH ADJUSTABLE SPEED
AND A SUSPENSION SYSTEM THAT SUPPORTS A KNIFE
PERPENDICULAR TO THE CUTTING TABLE
 THIS REDUCES PROBLEM WITH TILTING THE BLADE
AND INACCURATE CUTTING
 IT CAN MAKE TIGHTER TURNS WITH LESS DISTORTION
IN THE LAY
 IT COMBINES VERTICAL CUTTING AND BAND KNIFE
CUTTING INTO ONE MACHINE
 DEEPER SPREADS WITH GREATER ACCURACY
 LESSERINVESTMENT THAN COMPUTERIZED CUTTER
SPECIALIZED CUTTING
MACHINES
DESIGNED FOR SPECIFIC
OPERATIONS AND SPECIFIC
PRODUCTS

CLOTH CUT STRIP MACHINE

WIRELESS RECHARGEABLE
ELECTRIC SCISSOR

MINI ROUND CUTTER

TRANSFERRING MARKS
MARKS AND NOTCHES ARE
TRANSFERRED FROM MARKERS TO
THE PERIMETER OR INTERNAL
SURFACES OF GARMENT PARTS TO
FACILITATE THE SEWING
OPERATION
MARKS SHOULD NOT DAMAGE OR
DISCOLOUR THE VISIBLE PARTS OF
THE GARMENTS.

1.EDGE MARKS
2.INTERNAL MARKS
AUTOMATED,NUMERICALLY
CONTROLLED CUTTING
SYSTEM
ELEMENTS OF CNC
TABLE
CUTTING HEAD
I. SERVO MOTOR A
II.KNIFE
III.SHARPENER
CARRIAGE
I. SERVO MOTOR B
II.SERVO MOTOR C
III.SERVO MOTOR D
 KNIFE CUTTER
CNC for leather

• SPEED= 5-12 m/sec

• Length of knife depends upon

• number of plies.
Types of knifes used
LASER CUTTER

 It is a V shaped beam of
width of 0.004 inch.
 Cutting speed= 30-40
m/min
 Heat produced tends to
seal fabric.
 It can focus to limited depth
 Suitable for cutting single
ply.
 More accurate
Laser cutting CNC
 WATER JET CUTTERS

Width=0.0010-0.0015
inch
Pressure=70,000
pounds/square inch
Does not cause fusing.
May fray and tangle
yarns.
Suitable for cutting
leather and vinyl fabrics.
 Water jet cutters…

Cutting Source : High Pressure Water + Abrasive

Table(Cutting Table Unit)
- High rigidity and precision feed system driven with X-
axis and 2-axis simultaneous driving mechanism, in
- gantry structure
- Ball-Screw Feed driver enables high precision feeding
(Repetitive Accuracy: ¡¾0.03mm, Position Accuracy:
¡¾0.05mm)
- Nut-mechanism provides high speed/high accuracy
driving
- Block Lattice can be replaced according to user
requirement, or by - - individual Lattice replacement
4000 Series Cantilever
WaterJet
Comparison…
Abrasive Water Jet v Laser

AWJ strengths..
Accuracy the same as Laser
but in much thicker materials

Parts up to 50mm thick in

almost any material

No heat-affected zone to

prevent secondary operations
ULTRASONIC CUTTERS

 Produces vibration freqyency of

20 kHz
 10 plies can be cut.
 Lower price than laser cutter.

PLASMA JET

•High temperature ionised gas acts as

cutter.
•Heat emission causes damage.
PLASMA CUTTER
Plasma cutting is a process that is used to cut
steel and other metals (or sometimes other
materials like textiles) using a plasma torch.

In this process, an inert gas (in some units,

compressed air) is blown at high speed out of a
nozzle; at the same time an electrical arc is formed
through that gas from the nozzle to the surface
being cut, turning some of that gas to plasma.

The plasma is sufficiently hot to melt the metal

being cut and moves sufficiently fast to blow molten
metal away from the cut. Plasma can also be used
for plasma arc welding and other applications.
Specifications:

Input voltage: (50/60Hz) 220V +/- 10% 1PH

Frequency (Hz): 50/60
Rated input current (A): 22.1
No-load voltage (V): 230
Out current adjustment (V): 20-40
Rated working voltage (V): 96
Duty cycle (%): 60
No-load loss (W): 40
Efficiency (%): 85
Power factor: 0.93
Insulation grade: B
Housing protection: IP21
Pilot arc model: touch
Cutting thickness (mm): 1-16
Gross weight (kg): 9
Fittings: Trafimet101
Dimensions (mm): W 371x D 153 x H 232
Input voltage can be custom made
Air plasma cutter

Features:
Metal plates with different thicknesses
can be cut into any shape
Continuous, adjustable and exact
cutting current
Optimized design layout, high
frequency inverter, high duty cycle, low
energy consumption
Compact in volume, light in weight,
easy to carry, especially suitable for
outdoor, mobile operation
HOWA PLASMA CUTTER
WORKS???
Bibliography
BOOKS:-
“The technology of Clothing Manufacturing“ by Carr & Latham

“ Apparel Manufacturing” by Glock & Kunz

ARTICLES:-
Stitch world-pg no. 10 March 2006
pg no.46 March 2007
pg no.24 august 2007

WEBSITES:-
 www.gerbertechnology.com
 www.assyst-intl.com
 www.apparatex.com
 www.lectra.com
 www.tukatech.com
THANK YOU