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CHAPTER 2

WINE WITH FOOD


Introduction

 The marriage of wine and food can be a


mutually beneficial relationship.
 In pairing, food and wine flavors
complement each other.
PRIVATE DINING WINE LIST
Our Corporate Som m elier is available to assist with wine selections.

Sparkling
Pro se cco , Jeio, NV 39
Cre mant de Bo urg o g ne , JCB Brut Rosé , NV 42
Champag ne , Taittin ger, “La Fran caise ” Brut, NV 55
Champag ne , Ve uve Clicq uot Rosé , NV 79
Champag ne , Lauren t-Pe rrier, Vin tag e 95

White
Chardo nnay, Bartin ney Ste lle nb osch 39
Chardo nnay, So nom a-Cu tre r “Ru ssian River Ranche s” Sonom a Coast 45
Chardo nnay, Ramey Ce llars Ru ssian Rive r Valley 55
Chardo nnay, Cake b read Nap a Valley 59
Chardo nnay, Mayacamas Mt. Vee d er 65
Po uilly-Fuis se , Do main e Ferre t Macon 59
Sauvig no n Blanc, Sou the rn Rig h t Walker Bay 35
Sauvig no n Blanc, Josep h Ph e lp s Nap a Valley 49
Sauvig no n Blanc, Clou d y Bay Marlb orough 52
Sance rre , Roland Tissie r Loire Valle y 48
Pino t Grig io , Terlato Friu li 39
Pino t Grig io , Santa Marg he rita Vald ad ige 49
Pino t Gris, Trimb ach Rese rve Alsace 39
Rie s ling , J.J. Prum Graache r Him me lre ich Kab ine tt Mosel 45

Ro sé
Dry Ro sé , Cave s d ’Esclans “Whisp e rin g An gel” Proven ce 45

Re d
Pino t No ir, De Loach “Block 1950” Sonom a Coast 39
Pino t No ir, Elk Cove Vine yard s Willame tte Valley 42
Pino t No ir, Hamilton Russe ll Vineyard s He me l-e n-Aarde 49
Pino t No ir, FEL An d erso n Valle y 55
Pino t No ir, EnRo ute “Les Pom mie rs” Ru ssian Rive r Valley 60
Chianti Class ico , Que rce to Toscan a 35
Syrah, Tulip Winery “Re serve ” Up p e r Galilee 55
Malbe c, Alcan za Men d o za 39
Malbe c, Vina Cob o s “Bram are” b y Paul Hob b s Lujan d e Cuyo 65
Me rlo t, Stags’ Leap Win ery Nap a Valle y 49
Cabe rne t Sauvig no n , Bue hle r Nap a Valley 49
Cabe rne t Sauvig no n , Seq uoia Grove Nap a Valley 55
Cabe rne t Sauvig no n , Jord an Alexand e r Valle y 75
Cabe rne t Sauvig no n , Chap p e lle t “Sign ature ” Nap a Valley 89
Me ritag e Ble nd, Ove rtu re b y Op us One Nap a Valley 145
History
 Food and wine goes back centuries, in modern times it has become more trendy
 In 1928 Escoffer wrote that red meat and burgundy should be paired, as Champagne with
entremets
 In 1931 Micheline Guide recommended wines with dishes
 1939 a systematic approach by Pierre Andrieu paired wine with the evolution of the meal

 Old Systematic Approach: Red Wine with red Meat. White Wine with Fish.

Systematic Method (Course wine)

*Dry before Sweet


White before Red
Young before Old
Simple before complex
Light before Heavy

 Modern approach is a Lateral Approach with wine-dish combinations regardless of sequence.

 Today there are so many subtle foods and cuisines where matching food and wine takes more
into consideration.
Historical and Cultural Influences on Food and
Wine Pairing

 Cultures evolves their own cuisines over


centuries based on foodstuffs available in
their regions.
 Accompanying beverage was wine from
their respective countries.
 Wines were made with grape varietals
indigenous to that region and reflected the
terroir of the region.
Wine Pairing Develops
 In the late 17th century, regional cuisines became more clearly
developed.
 French were leaders in defining national cuisine.
 “La Haute Cuisine” (high cuisine)
 Developed concept of restaurants
 People in Europe chose wines from their own countries.
 People in countries where wine couldn’t be produced chose
French wines.
 Concept of matching wines to dishes developed.
 “Fusion cuisine”
 Started in 1970s by chef Wolfgang Puck
 Blending culinary traditions of two or more nations to create innovative
dishes
Thoughtful Matching of Wine and
Food
 “Goal of combining a wine and dish is to provide
an arrangement where:
 The flavors of the wine both compliment and elevate
the flavors of the food and vice-versa
 The whole is greater than the sum of its parts
 One partner should not dominate over the other.
 A wine can provide two functions:
 It can act as a seasoning that adds a new flavor to
the food.
 It can compliment the dish so the food’s flavor is
emphasized.
Food & Wine Pairing
 Steps to a Balanced Pairing
 Light with Light, Medium with Medium, Full with Full
 Be Mindful of Cooking Preparation
 Versatility- Pairing with a Wide Range of Dishes
 What Grows Together Goes Together
Basic Concepts of Matching Wine
to Food
 Rich foods are complemented by full-bodied wines. (tannic
wines complement fatty foods).
 Light-bodied foods are complemented by light-bodied
wines.
 Sour foods decrease the perception of acid in wine and are
best paired with tart wines.
 Sweet foods accentuate the perception of acid and are best
paired with wines that are slightly sweeter than the food.
 Foods with fruity flavors go best with wines that also have
a fruity character.
Basic Concepts of Matching Wine
to Food (cont.)
 Complex foods with intricate flavors go best with simple wines;
conversely, wines with complex flavors go best with simple foods.
 Spicy foods bring out the bitterness and astringency in wine and are
best paired with tart, light bodied, off dry wines.
 Spicy foods bring out the bitterness and astringency in wine and are
best paired with tart, light bodied, off dry wines.
 Salty foods pairs well with sparkling wine.
 A sauce or glaze can be used to bridge the gap between flavors to
allow a particular food to go with a certain wine.
Basic Concepts of Matching Wine
to Food (cont.)
 The method of preparation can greatly affect on
how the dish will pair with the wine.
 The textures and body of the food and wine
should complement each other.
 The older and more complex a sparkling wine is,
the better it goes with heavy foods.
How a Wine’s Flavor Affects Food

 A wine’s chemical and physical attributes determine:


 What the flavor of the wine will be
 How the wine will relate to the food
 Components of a wine’s flavor profile:
 Alcohol level
 Acidity
 Sweetness
 Astringency/bitterness
 Oak level
 Body/viscosity
How a Food’s Flavor Affects Wine

 Method of cooking
 Richness
 Spiciness
 Saltiness
 Acidity
 Sweetness
Special Considerations for
Vegetarian Cuisine
 Most vegetarian dishes are not as rich and fatty
as meat-based entrees are.
 Big-bodied tannic wines may not make a good
match.
 Light to medium-bodied wines would do better.
Putting it All Together

 These are basic guidelines, not absolute laws.


 Cooks and wine drinkers are encouraged to
experiment.
 Pairing food and wine is a matter of taste.
 Everyone has their own opinions and
preferences.
 Experimentation leads to a greater
understanding.
Ageing Wines

 Majority of wines are designed to be enjoyed


when they are released.
 Storage conditions are essential to proper aging.
 As wine ages, it goes through changes that affect
its flavor and body.
 As the wine’s flavors evolve, the way it interacts
with food also changes.
What Happens to a Wine as it
Ages
 Changes in color
 Changes in aroma
 Changes in flavor and body
 Amount of sediment
Which Wines Should be Aged?

 Wines that depend on fruity qualities for the majority


of their flavor do not age well.
 Since acid is needed preserve a wine during aging,
low acid wines age poorly.
 The additional alcohol and big body of fortified
dessert wines helps to preserve them for many years.
 Large bottles age more slowly than small bottles.
 For a wine to age well, it should have a high level of
tannins and acid, yet still be in balance.
Matching Older Wines With Food

 As a wine ages, it goes through a number of changes


that affect how it will pair with food.
 Since the wine is becoming softer and less tannic, it
will be less likely to go with rich and fatty dishes.
 An older wine’s flavors are more delicate/less likely
to match strongly flavored or heavily seasoned foods.
 Older wines have more subtle and complex flavors
that develop over time and do better with foods that
possess more subtle flavors as well.
Wines and Health

 The role of wine on human health is influenced


by two contradictory concepts:
 Wine is a beverage that should be considered a food.
 Alcohol is a drug and should be regulated and
controlled.
 Today, scientific studies show that moderate
consumption of wine can have positive health
effects, and moderate drinkers outlive those who
abstain.
Negative Effects from Excessive
Alcohol Consumption

 The harmful effects of excessive consumption


can occur chronically over many years, or
acutely in a single “binge drinking” episode.
 The long-term consequences of over
consumption include liver damage, as well as an
increased risk of cancer and heart disease.
Positive Effects from Moderate
Wine Consumption
 People who consume wine in moderation have a
longer lifespan than alcoholics and those who
abstain from alcohol.
 Direct link between modest wine drinking and
increased cardiovascular health.
Food and Wine Pairing
 FOOD AND WINE PAIRING IS SUBJECTIVE: Everyone has a different palate:
◦ Germans say something is dry, we say it’s sweet.
◦ People who eat spicy food experience wine differently from someone who
eats pasta and potatoes

 The TONGUE
◦ The tip senses sweetness = fruit, alcohol, sugar
◦ The front sides salt
◦ The back sides acid
◦ And very back bitter
◦ each section has buds of different intensities

 The NOSE
◦ Very sensitive in picking out minute differences in aroma
◦ Aromas are triggered by nose and brain connecting to memory
◦ The more senses you sense in a day the more you build up in memory bank
◦ The palate is located at top of mouth close to throat, this area is sensitive
and connects to the nasal cavity
◦ AROMA is very important
 What we perceive as tastes are really aromas: floral, fruits, nuts,
vegetables, spice, herbs, roasted flavors, animal and alcohol are all
aromas.
 THE SENSES
 Sweet, Bitter, Sour (Found in food and wine)
 Hot and Salty (come from food)
 6th sense UNAMI (found in food and wine)

 Umami: “Delicious” or “Savory”


 Found in foods with high protein such as consumes, aged meats,
shitaki mushrooms, dried seaweed, shellfish, raw seafood, soy
sauce & tomatoes
 Amino acid: L-MSG (l-glutamate-monosodium glutamate)
 Related to spiritual sense: “feeling of perfect quality in a taste or
some special emotional circumstance”

 Sweet and Umami are the only senses that are perceived as pleasant
 Can have adverse affects on wine, making wines more tannic, bitter
or metallic tasting
Food and Wine Pairing
COMPARE
Find a balance; use the dominant flavors of a dish to match the wine

Weight of a wine should match the weight of a dish

If a dish uses a specific wine in the sauce use the same wine in the pairing

Foods with sweetness or acidity is paired w/ a wine of equal or higher sweetness or acidity
– E.G. spaghetti & Barbera; Chicken in cream sauce & Chardonnay; Dulce de Leche & Sauternes

Focus on bridging ingredients of a dish such as berries, mushrooms, citrus etc… and use a wine that pairs with those
same ingredients

CONTRAST
Salmon with butter sauce with higher acidic Pinot Noir

Sour or acidic dishes are paired with a sweeter wine

Foods with richness are paired w/ acidic wines to cut through.

Intensity in flavors can provide a good contrast. E.g. An intense Alsace Riesling contrasted with a rich fatty roasted goose
work very well
COMPLETE

Food and wine enhance each other. Such as salty prosciutto with melon
Use wine as a condiment for the dish being eaten.
Fish or seafood with acidic wine if you like lemon and butter sauce
Lobster with a buttery chardonnay if you like your lobster with butter
Salty food with sweet wine
Salty food with Acidic wine
Spicy food with sweet wine
Important Wine Components
Acidity
 Where does it come from?
 Grapes = Tartaric, Malic and Citric Acids
 Fermentation = Succinic, Lactic and Acetic Acids
 Acidity comes from under ripeness; as sugars increase acidity decreases. The key is to get to a point where
acidity and sugars are in balance
 Affects of Acidity
 Has the opposite affect of sweetness (milk is a warm sweet feel; tea w/ lemon is fresh clean feel)
 Penetrates richness of ingredients & sauce (butter/Cream) to refresh palate
 Mirrors tart items (Vinegar, lemon, tomato & chutney)
 Mitigates oiliness, pizza, sautéed, deep fried
 Brings out flavor in food

 Changes in Acidity Levels raises concerns


 Modern winemaking and commercialism of wine has started to produce wines of lower acidity & big fruit.
Wines are not food friendly & are more suitable to being drunk on their own.
 The healthy culture of wine being a normal mealtime component is more & more eroded
 Leading to more consumption of wine on own. Can be said that it is more suitable to a culture concerned
with alcohol consumption than with the dining experience.
 Critics and Press are big culprits. Robert Parker is partial to fruit bombs and non-acidity
 The DANGER: soon we won’t be able to tell the difference between a wine from Spain, Italy, France or
California.
 Modern winemaking is based on trends…unfortunately the trends don’t last forever, and not always the
best in quality.
Oak and Alcohol

High alcoholic wines can give off tastes to food


Alcohol is a sweet liquid; wines w/ high alcohol have a hint of sweetness
Alcohol can also influence weight and body, the higher the alcohol the more body
Oak and Alcohol creates richness & intensity due to oak treatment, fermentation and aging
Affects of Alcohol and Oak
– Alcohol accentuates heat and salt
– Oak wines match well with similar flavors (nuts, toast, smoke & Caramel)
– Roundness and Richness should match with similar textured foods
– Rich meats, fish & Chicken w/ cream= full bodied chardonnays, light foods will be overpowered by
wines of weight and richness

Sweetness

 Wines are classified into different categories of sweetness:


 DRY: no detectable sweetness
 OFF DRY: White Zinfandel
 MEDIUM DRY: German Kabinett
 MEDIUM SWEET: Vouvray
 SWEET: Trockenbeerenauslese & Sauternes
 Sweetness comes from residual sugar, left after fermentation has been stopped and from acidity levels
 Low acid wines can seem sweeter than they really are
 High acid wines mask the sugar levels
 Fruity Character gives impression of sweetness, but it is fruit sweetness not sugar sweetness; as a result of
ripe grapes giving illusion of sweetness
 Affects of Sweetness
 Takes the edge off hot foods
 Matches well with slightly sweet condiments such as chutneys
 Good contrast to salty flavors such as Asian foods
 Very sweet wines work well with salty cheeses, Roquefort
Bitterness
Bitterness adds balance, character and appealing flavors to wine
Not Present in White Wines
Is a result of high tannin levels especially green tannins associated with under-ripe grapes
– Can come from aggressive pressing of grapes, fermentation choices, types of oak & aging
Affects of Bitterness
– Bitterness can make sweet foods bitter
– Pair with like flavored foods: grilled, charred, blackened
– Pair with bitter foods: broccoli, arugula, eggplant & bell peppers

Saltiness
Saltiness is a craving component of taste
We salt our savory foods, foods w/ Unami…work with wines w/ Unami
Saltiness cuts and accentuates sweetness
Wine doesn’t have salt but has affects on Salty foods
Affect of Salty Foods
– Acidity in wine cuts saltiness in food. Champagne & whites work with salty dishes, seafood: better
than less tart reds
– Salt will accentuate the tannins in a wine
– Salt accentuates the alcohol in wine
– Moderately sweet wines pair well with salty foods
Tips In Pairing
WHAT IF THE FOOD IS:

 Acidic: A dish with citrus or vinegar should be paired with a acidic wine.
 Duck with oranges needs a more acidic red wine than Duck with olives

 Salty: dishes with saltiness, such as soy sauce or seaweed will make wines with tannins more tannic
and bitter.

 Sweet: If the food is sweeter than wine then the wine will taste thin and tart.
 Ice cream is almost impossible to pair.

 Highly Seasoned or Spicy: These foods can fatigue and numb the palate and the wine can get lost.
 Wines with low tannins and low alcohol levels are best
 Sweet wines contrast well

 Rich and Fatty Foods: Foods with cream sauces, fatty steaks or rich fowl
 full bodied wines such as Chardonnay, Cabernet, Zinfandel, Merlot or Syrah are recommended
 Base Ingredients are the main portion of the dish (the Protein)

 Bridge Ingredients are those extras on a dish that add to the flavor such as mushrooms, berries, beans and herbs such as ginger,
tarragon, cinnamon, cloves

 Cooking Method
 Grilling, Roasting, Sautéing and braising are preferred methods to pair with wine
 poaching, Steaming or smoking limit the wine choices

 Easy Matches: Risotto and Chicken

 Difficult Matches: Asparagus, Artichokes, Strong Cheeses


 Chiles numb palate
 Eggs Mask wine flavors too much Unami
 Vinegar and Pickled foods can rob tastes and make wines more astringent
 However balsamic and pickled ginger work well

MARRIAGES MADE IN HEAVEN

Oysters and Chablis Roast Lamb and Bordeaux

Roquefort and Sauternes Stilton and Vintage Port

Sole and Burgundy Goat Cheese and Sancerre

Caviar and Champagne BBQ Ribs and Zinfandel

Stewed or Game Casseroles and Barolo


Cooking Methods Wine Choices Notes
Poaching or Steaming Light white wine: Chenin Blanc or Use lighter weight wine, with non
Pinot Grigio. Light fruity red: tannin, non acidic and less intense
Beaujolaise or Grenache rose flavors

Frying Chardonnay, Riesling or Pinot Noir Best is a wine with some acidity to
contrast with the oils

Grilling Whites Chardonnay, Full bodied Adds flavor; works well with fruity
White Rhone. Reds Pinot, Zin, oaky reds; Grilled beef needs tannic
Merlot, Cab. W/ Beef Barolo or Syrah wines
from Rhone
BBQ Roses; Zinfandel, Merlots or New BBQ Sauce adds sweetness; less
world Tempranillos tannic reds

Marinades New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Marinades usually have strong


Chablis or Fruity Grenaches or flavors and require wines with bold
Tempranillos flavors
Roasting Oaky Chardonnays, Rhone blends or Roasting can be complex. Herbs and
Gerwurtztraminers. Mourvedre, spices will determine white or red.
Syrah, Grenache, Nebbiolos Rosemary and Thyme = reds
Reduction Sauces Chardonnays and Rieslings If has powerful flavor need intense
Cabernets and Syrahs wine; Drink w/ wine sauce is made
with
Braising and Stews Pinot Noir, Cabernets, Merlots Use the wine used in the stock

Red Wine Sauce Sangiovese, Cabernets, Pinot Noir Use the wine sauce is made of

Stews w/ beer or stout Merlot, Beaujolaise, Red Burgundies Use low tannin reds so not to
overpower the beer flavor
FOOD TYPES Sparkling Sweet Wine Dry White Light Fruity Full Bodied
Wine Red Tannic Wine
Sweet Food No Effect, with The wine will Makes wine Increases Wine becomes
(Desserts, chocolate can taste dry if drier and more Acidity more bitter
Chocolate make wine food is acetic and tannic
Sweet Sauces)
taste bitter sweeter than
wine

Sour Foods Increases Makes wine If has more No effect Reduces


(Citrus, Vinegar, Sweetness bitter acid than wine tannins
Pickles & then wine will
Worchester)
taste sweeter

Salty Foods Wine becomes Wine will taste Makes wine No effect Reduces
(Feta, Soy sweeter sour sweeter Tannins
Sauce &
Seaweed)

Umami Foods Can become Wine gets lost Can make Can make A wine with
(Beef, MSG & metallic wine taste wines more equal to more
Shitake metallic tannic and unami is good;
Mushrooms)
bitter if it has less
could taste
tannic

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