7.

Sewing
Stitching or sewing is done after the cut
pieces are bundled according to size, colour
and quantities determined by the sewing
•Garments are sewn in an assembly line, with the garment becoming complete as it progresses down the
room.
sewing line. Sewing machine operators receive a bundle of cut fabric and repeatedly sew the same portion of
the garment, passing that completed portion to the next operator. For example, the first operator may sew
the collar to the body of the garment and the next operator may sew a sleeve to the body. Quality assurance
is performed at the end of the sewing line to ensure that the garment has been properly assembled and that
no manufacturing defects exist. When needed, the garment will be reworked or mended at designated
sewing stations. This labor-intensive process progressively transforms pieces of fabric into designer garments.
•The central process in the manufacture of clothing is the joining together of components.
•Stitching is done as per the specification is given by the buyer.
•High power single needle or computerized sewing machines are used to complete the sewing operation.
Fusing machines for fusing collar components, button, and buttonhole, sewing machines for sewing button
and buttonholes are specifically employed.
 Comparison between Progressive Bundle System and Unit Production System (UPS)

In readymade garment manufacturing plants various types of sewing systems are installed. A plant owner chooses these
systems depending on the production volume, product categories, and cost effectiveness of high tech machines. Among
those “Progressive Bundle System” (PBS) is mostly installed sewing system till date. In this production system bundles of
cut pieces (bundle of 5, 10, 20 or 30 pieces) are moved manually to feed the line. Then inside the line an operator
himself drag the bundle from side table and transfer the bundle to the next operator after completion of the work.

With the advancement of the technology mechanical material transportation systems are brought in the sewing plant.
An overhead material transport system, known as UPS (Unit Production System) transports cut pieces hanged in
hangers (one hanger for one piece) by automated mechanical transport system. It reduces manual transportation and it
has many other benefits against the progressive bundle system. This article is not to recommend one to replace this well
placed progressive bundle system. When to install a new technology is depend on various factors.

A comparison between these two production systems has been drawn in the following table on the basis of production
KPIs (Key Performance Indicators) to show how an UPS system (overhead hanging and sensor controlled system) is most
effective over PBS.
 Parameters Progressive Bundle System (PBS) Unit Production System (UPS)

-Manual transportation, many times helper are -In this system an automated mechanical system
hired for this bundle transportation job. carries pieces to each work stations.

Transportation -Easier pick up and dispose at each work station.

-Operators stop their work to fetch bundles. Resulted quick response time

-Less effective in terms of production management.  

Resulted long response time.

-Compare to UPS, through put time longer in PBS. -Through put time in UPS is less compare to PBS.
Through put time How much long will depend on the bundle size and But it is not the minimum time as in this system
no. of bundles kept in between two operators. there is WIP in between two operators.

- Direct labour content is high because usually
operator does tying and untying of bundles,
Direct Labour content positioning components, pulling the bundle ticket
and handling of work pieces.
-Direct labour content is less than PBS because an
operator only sews the garment part rather than
other tasks. In this system garment parts are held
by the over head hanger, so less handling of
garment components.
 Parameters Progressive Bundle System (PBS) Unit Production System (UPS)

-In PBS generally operators are asked to sew as -Less WIP in between operators. As workstation has limit of
WIP level much pieces as they can without considering back holding no. of hangers. Also after completion of operation
and front operators. This resulted piling up of work
in the operations with higher work content. hangers are transported to the next operation automatically.

-As a result of High Work In Process (WIP) is

Cutting work required by sewing section, cutting sections are -Lower WIP results in less cutting works. A balanced flow of
requirement required to perform 60-70% more than actual material established in between cutting and sewing line.
production can handle.

Inventory Level -Due high WIP and higher cutting, fabrics and trims -Less inventory for fabric and trims.
need to stock in advance

Excess labour - Usually in PBS needs more overtime works, repair -Plant with UPS system needs less overtime as planning is
requirement work due to some unfinished operations. easy in this manufacturing system.
Different Types of Line Layout

Though there are multiple options of sewing line layout to choose from, most garment manufacturers are comfortable
with straight lines having center table in between two rows of machines. 

In this article I will be showing you different types of line layout found in garment industry. This article would not tell
you which line layout is good and which one is not so good when compared with others. 

The other common sewing line layouts are as following. 

Figure 1: Straight line.

1. Line with center table and operators facing same

direction (Figure-1):

In the line a centre table is placed in between two rows of

sewing machines. All operators sit on workstation facing same
direction. Operators pick bundles from center table and after
stitching dispose bundles on the center tables. 
 Figure-2. Straight line operator facing opposite direction

2. Line with center table and operators facing opposite

direction (Figure -2)
Machine layout is same as above one. Difference is on
operators’ sitting position. Operators sit on the machine
keeping center table left side. This layout is more convenient
to all operators for picking up work from left side.

3. Straight line without center table and one raw of machines

In this layout no center table is used for material handling.

Instead cutting and finished garments are kept of hangers, on
baskets or on trolleys. See the different form of layout where
machines are placed in a straight line but no center table is
used.

 (a) Overhead material movement (Fig-3): Garment

components are placed clipped on hanger. and transported on
Fig. 3: Straight line layout with overhead
a rail.
material transportation
 Fig-4: Straight line layout with trolleys

(b) Trolley for material transportation (Fig-4): 

In this layout instead of center table trolleys are used

for material transportation.

(c) Line having individual disposal basket (Fig-5):

 
Instead of centre table individual disposal baskets are
provided to operators. 

Fig-5: Straight line layout with individual disposal basket

 Fig -6: Side by Side machine layout
4. Side by side machine layout (Fig -6): 

In this layout sewing machines are placed side by side.

Two rows of machines are faced each other. This type
of layout is used for single piece production system.

5. U-shaped line layout (Fig - 7): 

This kind of line layout is used in lean manufacturing.

Machines are placed side by side and U-shape is formed
to make a line. Operators sit inside. No center table is
used. This line layout is also known as modular line.

Fig. 7: U-shaped line layout.

6. Modular line layout:
In lean manufacturing, to reduce material transportation and increase the machine utilization sewing
machines are placed in such a way that neither it forms a U-shape nor a straight line. Instead machines
placed that suits better to work into multiple sewing machines sitting in single chair. I don’t know what the
exact name of this kind of layout is. This layout is named as modular layout to differentiate from the above
one.

7. Machine layout in UPS system (Fig-8)

This is bonus for you. I found this while searching

on the web. Machines are placed in straight line
but in an angle. In the other UPS workstation
machines can be placed side by side.