Weft Knitted Fabrics

1
2
 A) Plain or single jersey

3
 Plain
Plain is produced by the needles knitting as a single set,
drawing the loops away from the technical back and
towards the technical face side of the fabric.
Example: Jersey lily.

Patterning with Yarn 4

Technical face:
--- Smooth
--- Having the
appearance of columns
of V’s in wales.

Technical back:

--- Having the

appearance of
columns of
interlocking semi-
circles.
5
 Features:

• Used only a single set needle.

• Simplest and most economical production.
• 40% potential recovery after stretching.
• High covering power.
• Probability of curling yarn.
• Technical face is smooth and v-shape will show the wales.
• Technical back is rough and the head of the needle loop and the
bases of the sinker loops from columns of interlocking semi-circles.
• If yarn breaks, needle loops successively un-mesh down a wale and
sinker loops un-mesh up a wale. This structures break down is
termed ‘Laddering’.
• It is known as ‘Shaker stitch’ as its coarse gauge of about 3 needles
per inch.
• Plain can be un-roved.
• In plain un-roving can be prevented by binding off.
6
7
 Properties

• Unrove curl

stretching 8
 Laddering:

• If the yarn breaks, needle loops successively un-mesh

down a wale and sinker loop un-mesh up a wale; this
structure break down is termed as laddering.
• To prevent laddering, certain ladder resist structures
have been devised.

9
 Uses:

– Suitable for ladies hosiery.

– Suitable for single jersey fabric.
– Suitable for fully fashioned fabric.
– Suitable for ladies suiting known as ‘Jersey lily.’
– Men’s underwear.
– T-shirts.

10
Circular Knitting Machine

11
 Plain Circular Latch needle machine:
Or Single jersey Circular knit machine:
• Single jersey fabric is produced by the plain circular
latch needle machine.
• One set of latch needle is used.
• Latch needle, cylinder and sinker ring revolve through
the stationary knitting cam systems.
• Stationary yarn feeders are situated at regular
intervals around the circumference of the cylinder.
• Yarn is supplied from cones, placed either on an
integral overhead bobbin stand or on a free standing
creels through tensioners, stop motions and guide
eyes down to the yarn feeder guides. 12
13
• The fabric, in tubular form, is drawn downwards from
inside the needle cylinder by tension rollers and is wound
onto the fabric batching roller of the winding- down frame.
• The winding down mechanism revolves in rack over with
the and fabric tube.
• As the sinker cam plate is mounted outside on the needle
circle, the centre of the cylinder is open and the machine is
referred to as an open top or sinker top machine.
• Approximately suitable count may be obtained by using
formula-
Cotton spun count, NeC = G2/18
Worsted spun count, NeW = G2/15.

14
 The knitting head
1.Yarn feeder guide, which is associated with its own set of knitting
cams.
2.Latch needle.
3.Holding down sinker; one between every needle space.
4.Needle cylinder (revolving clockwise)
5.Cylinder driving wheel.
6.Cylinder driving gear.
7.Sinker cam-cap.
8.Sinker trick ring.
9.Needle retaining spring.
10.Needle operating cams.
11.Cam box.
12.Cam plate.
13.Head plate.
 Different parts of Single jersey knitting machine:

• Package carrier: To hold the yarn package.

• Yarn guide: To guide yarn definite path.
• Feeder in (signal lamp, magnet) for any problem.
• Latch needles: To form loops.
• Sinker: To open or close the latch of needle.
• Needle detector: To detect needle if there is no needle at any
point.
• Fabric detector.
• Cam (Knit cam, Tuck cam, miss cam): To up and down the needles.
• VDQ pulley (Variable diameter pulley): To control fabric GSM.
• Take up roller: To receive the fabric.
• Batch roller: To wind the fabric.
• Needle: Latch needle: For loop formation.
• Machine monitor.
17
 Knitting Action of Plain Knit Machine

Knitting action of a plain circular latch needle machine

a)Rest position: The sinker is forward, holding down the loop
whilst the needle rises from the rest position.
b)Clearing: The needle has been raised to its highest position
clearing the old loop from its latch.
c)Yarn feeding: The sinker is partially withdrawn allowing the
feeder to present its yarn to the descending needle hook
and also freeing the old loop so that it can slide up the
needle stem.
d)Knock over: The sinker is fully withdrawn whilst the needle
descends to knock over its old loop on the sinker belly.
e)Holding down: The sinker moves forward to hold down new
loop in its thread whilst the needle rises under the influence
of the up throw cam to the rest position where the head of
the open hook just protrudes above the sinker belly.
 Sinker timing

• The most forward position of the sinker during

the knitting cycle is known as the push point and
its relationship to the needles is known as the
sinker timing.
• If the sinker cam ring is adjusted so that the
sinker are advanced to the point where they rob
yarn from the new stitches being formed.
• The timing is normally set between the two
extreme.
 Single Jersey Derivatives
The structural modifications are used to a very great extent
in designing plain-knit structures by modifying the order of
knitting.
The plain knit structures can be modified with the following
alternatives.
- Knit loop and miss loop
- Knit loop and tuck loop
- Knit Loop, miss loop and tuck ioop.

The following figure illustrates the notations of some

simple tuck and float stitch single jersey fabrics.

21
 Plain Knit Derivatives
1. Single lacoste
2. Double lacoste
3. Single pique
4. Polo pique/Double pique
5. Two thread fleece
6. Three thread fleece
7. French terry etc
8.Jacquard knits
9.Knitted velour
10.Plaited knits
11. Pile knits

22
 1. Cross Miss Design:
• Cross miss is a miss-knit single jersey structure.
• So one set of needle is used to produce this structure.
• The repeat of the structure completes on two courses.
Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows:
- First course: Knit on all odd number needles and miss on all
even number needles.
- Second course: Miss on all odd number needles and knit on
all even number needles.

23
 2. Birds Eye or Double Cross Miss
Design:
> Birds eye is a knit-miss single jersey structure.
 So one set of needle is used to produce this structure.
 The repeat of the structure completes on four
courses.
 Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows:

24
- First course: Knit on all odd number needles and miss on
all even number needles.
- Second course: Knit on all odd number needles and miss
on all even number needles. Similar as first course.
- Third course: Miss on all odd number needles and knit
on all even number needles.
- Fourth course: Miss on all odd number needles and knit
on all even number needles. Similar as third course.

25
 7. Single Lacoste or Fred Perry Design:
> Single lacoste is a knit-tuck single jersey structure.
 So one set of needle is used to produce this
structure.
 It is also a very popular structure to produce cut
and sew knit wear.
 The prominency of the design appears on the
back side of the fabric.
 The repeat of the structure completes on four
courses. Knitting sequence for a repeat as
follows:
26
- 1st ourse: Knit on all odd number needles and tuck on all
even number needles.
- 2nd course: Knit on all needles.
- 3rd course: Tuck on all odd number needles and knit on
all even number needles, which is opposite of the first
course.
- 4th course: Similar as second course knit on an needles.

27
28
 8. Double Lacoste Design:
• Double lacoste is a tuck-knit single jersey structure.
• So one set of needle is used to produce this structure.
• It is also a very popular structure to produce cut and sew knit wear.
• The prominence of this design near to the single lacoste fabric. The repeat of the
structure completes on six courses.
• Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows:

29
- 1st course: Knit on all odd number needles and tuck on all even
number needles.
- 2nd course: Same as first course i.e. Knit on all odd number
needles and tuck on all even number needles.
- 3rd course: Knit on all needles.
- 4th course: Tuck on all odd number needles and knit on all even
number needles, which is opposite of the rirst course.
-5th course: Same as fourth course i.e. Tuck on all odd number
needles and knit on all even number needles.
- 6th course: Similar as third course knit on all needles.

30
 B) Rib

31