Skin Preparations Cold Cream

First Cold Cream Formula from Galen (170 AD) Purified Wax 1 Part Olive Oil 3-4 Parts Rose Petals q.s. Water q.s. Variations: Water 5-37% Almond Oil 50-70% Beeswax 12-15% or Mixed Beeswax and Spermaceti > 24%
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BPC 1948 Formula of a Cold Cream: (a) White Beeswax 18% (b) Almond Oil 61% (c) Borax 1% (d) Rose Water 20% (e) Oil of Rose 0.1% 1.Melt (a) in (b) 2.Dissolve (c) in (d). Add with constant stirring (2) to (1). Add the Oil of Rose and continue to stir till cold.
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In 1900, Mineral Oil to replace Vegetable Oils: - Ensure whiteness. - Inhibition of rancidity. - Uniformity of the finished product. - Cleansing improved. - But it modified emolliency. Non-ionic Emulsifiers, either alone or with beeswax-borax combination, are used.

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Oil-in-Water cold creams similar in character to the classic cold creams:

(a) Mineral Oil 65/75 (b) Beeswax (c) Spermaceti (d) Lanolin Anhydrous (e) G-1441 (Polyoxyethylene sorbitol-lanolin) 4.0 (f) Arlacel 60 (Sorbitan monostearate) 4.0 (g) Arlacel 83 (Sorbitan sesquioleate) 0.5 (h) Veegum Gel (Magnesium aluminium silicate)0.5 (i) Water 23.5 (j) Preservative q.s. (k) Fragrance q.s. 1. Mix (h), (i) and (j), heat to 70C. 2. Mix (a), (b), (c), (d), (e), (f) and (g) and heat to 70C. Add (1) to (2) at 70C, with moderate agitation. Continue agitation during cooling. Perfume at 45C and pour at 40C.
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Per cent. 50.0 15.0 2.0 0.5

Cleansing Creams
Cleansing Creams remove soils, but do not remove the natural oils of the skin. Thus they do not cause 'drying' or 'defatting' of the skin. Properties Desirable in a Cleansing Cream, Cleansing Milk or Cleansing Lotion: Leave the skin feeling "smooth" and preferably, non-greasy. Readily cleanse make-up and other dirt from the skin. Either be in liquid form or should readily liquefy or soften at that temperature at which it is used (body temperature), in order to exert any undue "drag" on the skin.WWW.BDTECHIE.COM

Liquifying Cleansing Creams:

(a) Isopropyl Myristate (b) Mineral Oil (c) Petroleum Jelly (d) Paraffin Wax (e) Fragrance 25.0% 25.0% 30.0% 20.0% q.s.

1. Melt and mix together all the above ingredients at about 65C. 2. Cool, with constant stirring until the mixture is a little over solidifying point. 3. Pour into jars.
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O/W Cleansing Creams:

Mineral Oil Stearic Acid Triethanolamine Carbopol 934 Water Preservative Fragrance 30.0% 10.0% 2.0% 0.5% 57.5% q.s. q.s.

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W/0 Cleansing Creams:

Mineral Oil Paraffin Wax Bentone 38 Arlacel 83 Water Isopropanol Fragrance 50.0% 5.0% 0.7% 2.0% 41.9% 0.4% q.s.
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Cleansing Milk:
Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Triethanolamine Preservative Water Fragrance 10.0% 0.5% 3.0% 1.8% q.s. 84.7% q.s.

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Cleansing Lotions:
Triethanolamine Lauryl Sulphate, Liquid 5.0% Water 95.0% Fragrance q.s. Preservative q.s.

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Quality Control:
pH Appearance and Smoothness Spread ability Non-Greasy Absence of Air Pockets Cleansing Property Emollient Property Absence of Allergic Ingredients Absence of Incompatibility Economy

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Packaging:
Cold Cream : Wide mouth glass/plastic containers. Should be screw-type cap. Aluminum or plastic tubes. Milks or Lotions : Narrow mouth plastic bottles/containers.

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Thank you

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Vanishing Cream
Contains a significant amount of oil phase, but after rubbing the residue does not feel greasy. Used as a facial cream, hand cream and foundation cream. Water in the external phase. Although they contain soaps, pH is not alkaline, but between 6 - 6.9. Because acid-soaps are used. Alkali-Stearate with Stearic Acid.
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Vanishing Cream ...............

Jacketed Steel Kettles are better. Impure Steel or Copper utensils not to be used. Stirrer to be used cautiously because of aeration problem. Cooling by stirring is not a good practice. Vacuum is a must before packaging.

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Vanishing Cream ...............

(a) Stearic Acid 15.0% (b) Pot. Hydroxide 0.7% (c) Glycerin 8.0% (d) Water 76.3% (e) Preservative q.s. (f) Fragrance q.s. (1) Heat (a) to 75C. (2) Dissolve (b), (c) and (e) in (d) and raise the temperature of this solution to 75C. Add (1) at 75C to (2), with gentle but thorough agitation. Continue stirring until the temperature of the mixture falls to about 40C. Add the fragrance, stir and allow the cream to stand for 24-48 hours, occasionally turning over the top crust of cream that forms. Use a vacuum. After that pass the cream through a low-speed homogenizer. Pack in suitable containers and seal immediately to make it air-tight. WWW.BDTECHIE.COM

Vanishing Cream ...............

(a) Stearic Acid 15.0% (b) Pot. Hydroxide 0.7% (c) Glycerin 8.0% (d) Water 76.3% (e) Preservative q.s. (f) Fragrance q.s. (1) Heat (a) to 75C. (2) Dissolve (b), (c) and (e) in (d) and raise the temperature of this solution to 75C. Add (1) at 75C to (2), with gentle but thorough agitation. Continue stirring until the temperature of the mixture falls to about 40C. Add the fragrance, stir and allow the cream to stand for 24-48 hours, occasionally turning over the top crust of cream that forms. Use a vacuum. After that pass the cream through a low-speed homogenizer. Pack in suitable containers and seal immediately to make it air-tight. WWW.BDTECHIE.COM

Vanishing Cream ...............

(a) Stearic Acid 15.0% (b) Pot. Hydroxide 0.7% (c) Glycerin 8.0% (d) Water 76.3% (e) Preservative q.s. (f) Fragrance q.s. (1) Heat (a) to 75C. (2) Dissolve (b), (c) and (e) in (d) and raise the temperature of this solution to 75C. Add (1) at 75C to (2), with gentle but thorough agitation. Continue stirring until the temperature of the mixture falls to about 40C. Add the fragrance, stir and allow the cream to stand for 24-48 hours, occasionally turning over the top crust of cream that forms. Use a vacuum. After that pass the cream through a low-speed homogenizer. Pack in suitable containers and seal immediately to make it air-tight. WWW.BDTECHIE.COM

Vanishing Cream ...............

In this formula, about 3.8% of the fatty acids are neutralized. If more (20-30% fatty acids) to be neutralized, stronger emulsifiers are to be used. There are many types of emulsifiers : Sodium Hydroxide gives a harder cream. Potassium Hydroxide gives softer cream & plenty of sheen. Borax gives a white cream, but tends to grain. Ammonium Hydroxide produces a soft cream, but is unpleasant to the employees and causes discolouration (light, air, fragrance). Triethanolamine gives a very soft cream with high sheen (Sod. Hydroxide may correct it). Also causes discolouration of the cream on long standing (metallic contamination, fragrance, light). Isopropanolamines produce soft creams without any chance of discolouration.

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Vanishing Cream ...............

(a) Stearic Acid (b) Potassium Hydroxide (c) Sodium Hydroxide (d) Cetyl Alcohol (e) Isopropyl Myristate (f) Glycerin (g) Water (h) Preservative (i) Fragrance 15.0% 0.5% 0.18% 0.5% 3.0% 5.0% 75.8% q.s. q.s.

(1) Heat (a), (d) and (e) at 75C until homogenous. (2) Heat (b), (c), (f), (g) and (h), until a clear solution obtained. Adjust temperature to 75C. Add (1) to (2) with gentle but continuous agitation. Stir down to 45C. Fragrance, allow to stand 24-48 hours. Use vacuum, homogenize and pack air-tight.
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Vanishing Cream ...............

(a) Stearic Acid (b) Potassium Hydroxide (c) Sodium Hydroxide (d) Cetyl Alcohol (e) Isopropyl Myristate (f) Glycerin (g) Water (h) Preservative (i) Fragrance 15.0% 0.5% 0.18% 0.5% 3.0% 5.0% 75.8% q.s. q.s.

(1) Heat (a), (d) and (e) at 75C until homogenous. (2) Heat (b), (c), (f), (g) and (h), until a clear solution obtained. Adjust temperature to 75C. Add (1) to (2) with gentle but continuous agitation. Stir down to 45C. Fragrance, allow to stand 24-48 hours. Use vacuum, homogenize and pack air-tight.
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Vanishing Cream ...............

Quality Control : Absence of gritty particles. pH not alkaline. Not darken on long storage. Shiny/pearly appearance. Absence of any black particles. Easily absorbed by the skin. Non-greasy or non-sticky. Optimum viscosity. Mildly fragrant. Packaging : Wide-mouth opaque plastic containers. Air-tight non-metallic closure. Tubes also can be used. WWW.BDTECHIE.COM

Thank you

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