MISSION

Our mission Is to profitably manufacture And Supply clothing of require quality standards To our customers On time, every time"

COM PANY PROFILE: MATRIX CLOTHING PVT. LTD. Year of establishment: June 1980 Address: Matrix clothing Village - mohammadpur. Khandsa road, p.o. -Narsinghpur, Gurgaon-122001 haryana Annual turnover: 130 crore Rs. Ownership: Partnership firm Partners: Mr. Gautam Nair Mr. Vikram Nair Mr. Rajeev Dhawan Monthly production capacity: 2 lac polos. 3 lacs boxer shorts, 1 lac ladies garments No. Of employees: 2200 BRIEF PROFILE PAUSHAK, a partnership firm, was set up in June 1980, to manufacture "paushak" (this is a Persian word, meaning clothing) for the international market. The original partnership is still flourishing with each of the three partners having a hand-on involvement in operations. Paushak and its sister concern, matrix Clothing(P) LTD , are currently engaged in the manufacture of woven and knitwear ladies/men's apparel essentially for European and North American markets. Other companies in the group are engaged in the manufacture and export of polyesters zip fasteners. Total group sales turnover for current year 2005-2006 is INR 130 Crores (equivalent to US$ 29million) Of this apparel accounted for INR 90 crores or US$20 million.

The Top Management

Rajeev Dhawan ,Handles production operations for both the woven and knitwear divisions. Gautam Nair, Handles client services and commercial operations.

PRODUCT RANGE WOVEN They make various products for men as well as ladies but the area of specialization is in Men's/Boy's Boxer shorts along with ladies embellishment tops and blouses. KNITWEAR Their product range in knitwear comprises of: men's knitted polos and cont front shirts in a variety of specialized fabrics. They work with single/double mercerized fabrics, moisture management and performance fabrics in 100% cotton as well as in blends. ladies/girls knit tops with embroidery, bleaching and printing embellishments.

CLIENTS They work with several international brands which are known world over for the quality of their merchandise. The factory has been evaluated and approved for production by well known brands as: 1. The gap clothing co. U.S.A. 2. Philip van huesen co. U.S.A. 3. Kohl's 4. Speedo 5. Ashworth 6. J. Crew 7. Reebok 8. Timberland 9. Abercrombie and fitch 10. Hollister

11 .Next, U.K. 12. The Otto versand combined group, Europe 13. Speedo U.K. 14. Espirit 15. IZOD 16. Benetton group 17 .Armani exchange 18. Nautica 19. Tommy Hilfiger 20. Greg Norman collection 21. Calvin Klein 22. Tehama 23. Mervyns 24. Debenhams 25. Rockport 26. Old navy 27. Jos-a-bank 28. Woolworth 29. Belk

MANUFACTURING FACILITIES Manufacturing operations for both knits and woven are processed at Gurgaon factory, about 40kms from Delhi. The Gurgaon unit is a state of the art factory having over 100,000 sq. Ft of covered area. To ensure a hygienic, dust free atmosphere, the entire unit is air cooled by a forced draft ventilation cooling system. Complete operations from cutting to dispatch are done in house-over 400 Japanese sewing and special purpose machines have been installed. Special machines include 3-thread and 5-thread overlook, feed off the arm, double needle machines, edge cutting, needle feed machines, bar tacking and band knife cutters, more man 50% of the machines are, micro processors controlled with,

automatic tacking and thread trimming functions. A complete washing plant is also installed in house and is shared with the knitwear division. Companys Monthly capacity is 300,000 boxer shorts and 60,000 ladies tops. All manufacturing operations are centralized at Gurgaon. A total of 600 sewing machines are currently engaged in knitwear production. The monthly capacity is 200,000 polo shirts per month and 100,000 ladies tops per month with production being done on art assembly line system to enable quick turnarounds in sampling and production, we have 7 circular knitting machines and 12 flat knit collar machines installed in house. We also have three computerized embroidery machines with a total of 46 embroidery stations. This enables the bulk of fabric/collar knitting/development and all of our embroideries to be done in house.

THE ENVIRONMENT
INTERNAL ENVIRONMENT : Matrix Clothing Compliance with human right standards is a key issue for today's apparel maker. the company is an equal opportunity employer and does not discriminate in hiring people on the basis of sex, religion, caste or creed. We meet and exceed statutory requirements on work place hygiene, fire/safety regulations and minimum wages/ perquisites to employees. They have a unique employee welfare scheme where up to two children of every employee whohas been in service for over seven years are provided free education up to high school. They have an HR department for development of human resources which focuses on their training, development, and motivation and general welfare. EXTERNAL ENVIRONMENT : Matrix Clothing Concern for the environment is a cornerstone of our individual and business philosophy. Although hardly any effluent is generated during the production process, waste water from our washing department and toilets is treated in our own effluent treatment plant jointly owned with an associate company before being recycled for use for horticulture purposes. They believe that every business has a social responsibility towards the society from where it draws its resources. Towards this end, we regularly participate in several social and community development projects. In the past we have donated

computers to a nearby village school for free computer education for under privileged students, organizing relief material for cyclone ravaged area of Orissa in eastern India, mobilizing funds for the Kargil relief fund for The Indian army and organizing a fund collection effort from within the company towards Helping the earthquake ravaged state of Gujarat where thousands of innocents lost their lives. They also work actively with an NGO called the Salaam Baalak trust, which works towards the rehabilitation of street children in Delhi.

VARIOUS UNITS OF MATRIX CLOTHING

1. Unit 1 (Knitted also known as Timberland Floor) Machine Details : S. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS Straight Knife Cutting M/c Fusing M/c Band Knife Needle Detection M/c Model Juki Juki, Brother Juki, Brother Pegasus, Yamato Juki, Pegasus Pegasus Brother Brother, Juki Juki Pegasus, Yamato Brother, Juki Eastman Aura , Duke Duke Quantity 14 151 12 21 17 1 3 3 21 12 3 5 3 1 1 270

2. Unit I (Sampling) Machine Details :

S. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10 11 12 13

Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNCS Band Knife

Model Juki, Brother Pegasus, Yamato Juki, Pegasus Pegasus Brother Brother, Juki Juki Pegasus, Yamato Pegasus Higlade Duke

Quantity 21 4 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 35

3. Knits 1st Floor Machine Details : S. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS SNCS Model Juki, Brother Juki, Brother Pegasus, Yamato Juki, Pegasus Brother,Juki Brother, Juki Juki, Brother Pegasus, Yamato Pegasus, Yamato Brother, Juki Quantity 0 90 10 15 23 0 3 2 2 16 13 7 1

14 15 16 17 18 19

Straight Knife Cutting M/c Fusing M/c Band Knife Drill Maker Spotting M/c Pressing Table

Eastman Kumsum Duke Kingsew Travel Excel

3 2 1 1 2 24 217

4. Knits 2nd Floor : Machine Details : S. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS SNCS Straight Knife Cutting M/c Fusing M/c Band Knife Transfer Fusing Spotting M/c Pressing Table Model Juki, Brother Juki, Brother Pegasus, Yamato Juki, Pegasus Brother,Juki Brother, Juki Juki, Brother Pegasus, Yamato Pegasus, Yamato Brother Eastman Kumsum Duke Ramsons Travel Excel Quantity 0 88 7 19 23 0 3 2 3 13 8 1 0 3 2 1 1 2 23

187 5. Unit II (Sampling- Mens) Machine Details : S. No. 1 2 3 5 6 7 10 11 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Feed of the Arm Flat Lock Kansai Special Model Juki, Brother Pegasus, Yamato Juki, Pegasus Brother Brother Juki Pegasus, Yamato Fx 4404 Quantity 15 2 2 1 1 1 4 1 27 6. Unit II (3rd Floor) Machine Details : S. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS Model Juki, Brother Juki, Brother Pegasus, Yamato Juki, Pegasus Brother Brother Juki Pegasus, Yamato Pegasus, Yamato Brother, Juki Quantity 0 142 4 1 4 0 2 2 7 0 3 8

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

DNCS Straight Knife Cutting M/c Fusing M/c Kansai Special Feed of the Arm Spotting M/c Pressing Table Cone Binder End Cutter

Juki, Typical Eastman Fablion 450 Fx Series Juki,Brother Travel Excel Hasima Eastman

6 3 1 15 20 5 26 1 1 251

7. L.S.T. Ground Floor Machine Details : S. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS Snap Button M/c Needle Detection M/c Model Juki Juki, Brother Juki, Brother Pegasus Pegasus Pegasus Brother Brother, Juki Juki Pegasus, Yamato Pegasus, Yamato Brother, Juki Tacking Eastman Quantity 10 131 2 27 11 1 1 1 1 14 3 3 1 1 207

8. L.S.T. 1st Floor Machine Details : S. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS SNCS Straight Knife Cutter Rib Cutter Band Knife Transfer Fusing Fusing M/c Model Juki Juki, Brother Juki, Brother Pegasus, Yamato Pegasus Pegasus Brother Brother Juki Pegasus, Yamato Pegasus, Yamato Brother, Juki Juki, Higlade Eastman Juki Duke Ramsons Hasima Quantity 12 109 5 33 1 1 1 1 1 8 11 0 3 5 1 1 3 2 206 9. L.S.T. 2nd Floor Machine Details : S. No. 1 2 3 4 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L Model Juki Juki, Brother Juki Pegasus Quantity 11 10 1 3

5 6 7 8 12

Multi Needle Chain Stitch Feed of the Arm Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS

Kansai, Fuken Juki Pegasus, Yamato Pegasus, Yamato Brother, Juki

2 3 0 3 4 37

10. Plot No. 33 Machine Details : S. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Single Needle Lockstitch SNLS (with Edge Cutter) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L F/L Trimmer DNLS DNLS Flat Lock Button Stitch UBT Bartack Buttonhole Band Knife Cutting M/c Fusing M/c DNCS Model Brother Brother Juki Juki Brother Pegasus Pegasus Pegasus Brother Juki Pegasus Juki Brother Juki, Brother Eastman Aura Juki Quantity 115 75 15 10 9 4 0 2 3 5 19 3 3 3 1 2 1

18

Straight Knife M/c

Eastman, KM Mark

5 318

11. Plot No. 412 Machine Details: S. No. 1 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 17 18 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L F/L Trimmer DNLS Flat Lock Button Stitch UBT Bartack Buttonhole Straight Knife Cutting M/c Fusing M/c Snap Button M/c Model Brother, Juki, Maqi Brother Pegasus Pegasus, Hangan, Brother Pegasus Brother Pegasus Brother Brother Juki, Brother Eastman Hashima Tony Quantity 228 10 15 37 4 12 10 2 3 2 4 1 1 337

Merchandising
Merchandising is the central part of garment manufacturing company. Merchandising is vital from the buyer sourcing to the delivery of the products. The main role of merchandiser in a production unit is to fulfil the needs of buyers by coordinating with the manufacturing departments. His work is to balance the quality price and delivery simultaneously with proper co-ordination, supervision and control. Thus a merchandiser is a fulcrum of the organization that involves coordinating and follow-up against tight schedules merchandising department is involved throughout the process at each and every step from getting the order, to the shipment of the order. Merchandising is the focal point of activity in this company. It is the responsibility of a merchandiser to for all the milestone activities with regard to processing of an order viz. Sampling, bulk approvals, ordering fabrics, ordering trims and accessories, getting sample approvals, fabric and garment testing, shipment sample submissions, production, inspection, packaging and dispatch. When an order is received the first and main step is the calculation of the cost of the garment. The merchandiser prepares invoice. An invoice is a tender which is sent to the buyer which contains the details about the buyers name, address, price quotation, terms of payment, credit or open account etc. At matrix as such no invoice is prepared as the buyers are fixed but for new buyers this is done. In case of old buyers, the buyers send the tech pack and then the merchandiser sends the pricing. Negotiations then take place between the two and they decide upon a common point of agreement. The costing is done in regards to CMTP i.e. Cut, make, trims and packaging. It also includes the fabric and embellishments cost. A cost sheet is used for this purpose. Costing depends on the following factors : Fabric cost Fabric Type Yarn Count GSM Tube size open Tube size closed

Fabric cost per kg: yarn cost + knitting cost + knitting wastage + wet processing charge + processing loss + tube size open or closed Collar Cutting cost Cutting charge Production cost Lockstitch Overlock Flatlock Folding/binding Shell stitch Thread Thread cutting Trims cost Main label Twill tape Care label Tag AP Ticket (or any other Tickets) Tape Side label Finishing/packaging cost Washing Pressing Price tag Packing material Carton Truck to Chennai

Embellishments cost Woven patch Printing Sequins Embroidery OVERHEADS All indirect costs Contribution It is the profit margin for the company. Drawback The percentage which is given by the government because the company is exporting and getting foreign currency in India, It is usually 6-7%. This amount is usually deducted from the contribution value. Handling/settlement value It is the amount that is given to the buyer. It is usually 6-7%.

Once the cost is determined, the merchandiser quotes this cost to the buyer. Negotiations take place between the two and accordingly a settlement is reached. The buyer then sends a specification sheet to the merchandiser, which contains all required details about the order. Based on this spec sheet the proto sample is made. The number of proto samples to be made is determined by the buyer. Usually 3 proto samples are made. One is sent to the buyer, one to the buying house and the third one is kept by the merchandiser as a counter sample. If the proto samples are rejected, they are to be made again. If the samples are approved then the next step is the construction of the size samples. Size Set samples are made in all sizes with the required fabric in the original colour. If these size set samples are approved then the in house production order is received and accordingly everything is ordered for. The merchandiser makes cad request form by this purchase order form, which is in turn made by the marker efficiency form. Two copies are made, one of them is sent to the sourcing department so that the required amount of fabric is procured for production and the other copy is sent to the CAD department to get the average. This average helps in knowing how

much fabric would be required for the particular number of pieces. Once an order is given it is punched into the ERP software. The software that is used by the merchandisers is called the World Fashion Exchange. The order is punched with the order confirmation number along with the details of the buyer, quantity, style etc. The order confirmation number has the following parts: 11. K.TMB.033.0173 11 stand for the year K stands for knits TMB stands for the buyer name 033 the order number of the year for the particular buyer 0173 the order number of the year for the whole company When the order is punched the cad requisition form is made. Side by side the sampling has started and the samples are to be approved. Through the cad request form MRL is generated. MRL is material requirement list. MRL lets one know the amount of total fabric that is required as well as the trims. The approved fabric and the trims swatch are received. An indent is formed for the fabric as well as the trims. This indent is the permission by the merchandiser to buy the trims as well as the fabric. The head of the merchandising department signs it. Alongside MRL, BOM is made. BOM is the bill of material for fabric, trims as well as for the packaging material. The order confirmation tells about the price where as BOM tells about the required quantity. MRL=BOM x OC The merchandiser then prepares a summary sheet. This summary sheet consists of a one-page summary of the details of the order. It lists the color wise and size wise breakdown of particular style, the consumption, the amount of fabric required, delivery date and price. The copy of this summary sheet is circulated to all department heads that are associated with the processing of the order namely fabric department, stores, production, and finishing, accounts, shipping and documentation department. The main documents that are used by the merchandising departments are: 1. Tech pack-it contains all the technical details about the garment to be manufactured. It contains the construction details, the type of fabric to be used, the trims and accessories that are required etc.

2. Time and action plan- as the name suggests it contains the time period to be allotted for a particular action. By action it means the time the samples need to be made, sent and approved, the time it takes to get the purchase order, the time taken for getting the bulk fabric, accessories and trims, the total time required in the production department i.e. from cutting to packaging and also the time for shipping and documentation. The difference between the planned and actual dates should be less and it is usually made for a total of 90 days from the order receive date till the shipment date. 3. BOM-it is the bill of material. It is made for fabric, sewing trims and packing trims. The fabric contains cuffs, collars, and the different types of fabric that are used in the garment. It contains the type of fabric, color, size (in case of collars and cuffs), rate, quantity, supplier, purchase officer etc. The sewing trims consist of main labels, wash care labels, size labels and buttons etc. The packing trims consist of poly bag, tissue paper, sticker, hang tag and price ticket etc. 4. MRL- it is the material requirement list. MRL lets one know the amount of total fabric that is required as well as the trims. It is again made for fabric, sewing and packing trims. PURCHASING TERMS FOB-free on board- it is the simplest costing procedure. In this the costing is done till the delivery till the port of ones own country. C&F-cost and freight C&I-cost and insurance LDP-land duty port - in this case the delivery is to be made till the buyers port DDU-delivery duty and paid - in this case the delivery is to be made till the buyers warehouse or the buyers destination. Payment terms Payment in advance-the payment for the delivery is done in the advance Open account- as the buyers and the company have been working for a long time now, they have an open account. This open account enables the company to take out capital from the account, which is in turn filled up by the buyer. This is usually done with orders that are running all around the year.

Letter of credit (loc)-letter of credit is the proof by the buyer that the payment will be made to the company on the shipment. It is usually given after 30 days of shipment. As the buyer sends the purchase order (PO) to the company, he sends the loc to his bank. The company receives the p0 and issues a copy of it to his bank. The bank then forwards the PO to the buyers bank and the dealings are made accordingly. The company can now take up to 80-90% of the capital by their bank. Documents on payment (DOP) and documents on acceptance (DOA)DOA-the company sends the documents to its bank. This bank then sends the documents to the buyers bank. This bank then prepares an agreement on the basis of some clauses such as the time for payment etc. And when the buyer signs these agreements then only will he get those documents. DOP-the documents are sent to the companys bank, which sends it to the buyers bank. The buyers bank gives these documents to the buyer only if the bank receives the payment. The buyer can get the shipment only on the basis of these documents. The exporter sends the shipment to the buying house, this buying house then sends the goods to the foreign buyer. The entitlement of the goods will not be transferred to the foreign buyer. It will get the entitlement only if it sells. If the goods are not sold then they can be returned to the buying house. Order stage The merchandiser gets detailed information from buyer about a product like: Style Details: Tech pack Fabric type Quality and fiber content Trim requirements and quality of trims used color details Additional processing required like washing, printing, embroidery. Sometimes they provide a style sample also Sampling Stage : Make the prototype sample Coordinate with research and development for product study

 Find the fabric consumptions and initial costing Send the sample with price quotations Confirmation Stage: receive the purchase order receive the amendments in the style confirm the price confirm the delivery schedule and get the required lead time. Processing stage Receive the commands for the end sample and get it corrected Get the approval for the samples and trims Prepare the time action calendar Prepare the fabric and trim indents Get the list of tests required Coordination with the logistics, r&d and I.E. For detailed reports Coordinate with PPC for production planning Send the order status to the buying office at every stage Receive the ordered fabric and trims. Conduct the tests in buyers authorized laboratory and get it approved. Production stage: call for the production meeting every Saturday prepare the production file and forward the same to the unit look upon the finance in each department Shipment stage: Coordinate with logistics department and buyer for shipping documents coordinate with bank for receiving the money The major focus of the merchandiser is on his communication skills, he acts as the mediator between the buyer and the company. While taking up the order it is his job to ensure that no mistakes take place and there should be no misunderstanding between him and the buyer. The mode of communication practiced in matrix is via emails and faxes. Correspondence files are maintained for each buyer in which the details of all the

incoming and outgoing correspondences are kept. It is the responsibility of the merchandiser to ensure that the data which is supplied to the various departments of the company is free from any errors. If any mistake is done in this aspect it may lead to held up of production and ultimately the delay or in worse cases the cancellation of shipments. Example of a 90 day Template of T&A Calendar Track Target Date : 08 July 2011-07-02

Task

Duration (in Days)

After Task

Target Date

OC PUNCHING LAB DIP APPROVAL FINAL MRL PROCESSING TRIMS INHOUSE DEADLINE

1 7 8 35 OC PUNCHING FINAL MRL PROCESSING

10 APR 2011 16 APR 2011 18 APR 2011 23 MAY 2011

FIT SAMPLE APPROVAL FABRIC FIRST LOT APPROVAL PP/ SEALER APPROVAL

17 21 LAB DIP APPROVAL

26 APRIL 2011 7 MAY 2011

15

FABRIC FIRST LOT APPROVAL, FIT SAMPLE APPROVAL

22 MAY 2011

FABRIC TEST RESULTS

FABRIC FIRST LOT APPROVAL

8 MAY 2011

FABRIC INHOUSE

21

FABRIC FIRST LOT APPROVAL

28 MAY 2011

FILE HANDOVER DATE PCD FINAL INSPECTION

55 62 28 PCD

3 JUNE 2011 10 JUNE 2011 8 JULY 2011

Jist of Merchandising Activity:

Receive the Tech Pack from the Buyer Prepare the Proto Sample

Get the Approval of the Proto Sample Prepare the Fit Samples/Get them approved Send the Sales Man Sample to the Buyer Prepare the Pre Production Sample Prepare the Pre Production Sample Get the Pre Production Sample Approved Send the Fabric Sample (Beginning, Middle, End) to the Buyer Send the Top of Production Sample to the Buyer Accumulate the Pack Pull Samples

Co-ordinate with the Production Department and send the order on time

Sample Cost Sheet : Knits/Timberland Buyer / Label Season Style # Style Description Yarn Count / Type Yarn Conten t Fabric Type / Finish FABRIC PRICE C T G Date :

ITEM

YA RN

KNIT TING

LOS S%

PRC. COST

LOS S%

TO PANEL TAL LENGTH

PANEL WIDTH

GSM

CON S.

PRICE (INR)

TOTAL FABRIC PRICE STITCHING / PACKING TRIM PRICE FRT + HANDLING % CON S. PRICE (INR)

ITEM

ITEM DESCRIPTION

FOB

LDP

TOTAL TRIM PRICE VALUE ADDITION COST (EMBROIDERY/PRINTING/OVERDYING) COST /KG CO NS. COST/P c. REJECTION % PRICE (INR)

OPERATION

EFF%

TOTAL EMBELLISHMENT COST COSTING SUMMARY PRICE (INR)

MISC. CHARGES

GARMENT SAM

SAM COST

TOTAL INPUT COST TOTAL COST PRICE CONTRIBUTION DRAWBACK SELLING PRICE NET CONTIBUTION SPECIAL EXCHANGE RATE

REMARKS

APPROVED AS ON :

AUTHORIZED BY :

Store
There are 2 stores at Matrix Clothing. One store is specifically dedicated for storing the knitted fabrics, while the other store holds the woven fabric, knitted fabric and the Trims as well. Activities in the Store: 1. 2. 3. 4. Receive the fabric Tally the fabric against the ordered and mentioned quantity Open the bale and tally the packing list (if woven fabric) Then the quality check is done as per the 4 point system i.e. a maximum of 40 defects per 100 sq yd 5. The woven fabric is checked entirely while the knit fabric is checked only 20%. 6. The widths of the fabric at beginning, middle and end are checked and recorded. 7. The record of defects in the fabric is also kept. This helps in communicating to the floor and warning them about the defects so that counter measures can be taken. The Store is responsible for adequately holding the material and issuing the materials in the right quantity, to the right department/floor, in the right time. When the store receives the order from any department the store checks the P.O. and the amount to be issued. Once the quantity is issued a challan is issued to keep a record of the fabric issued. There are 2 fabric stores, the capacity of which are : Store 1 50 Tons knits + 2 Lakh mt. Woven Fabric Store 2 200 Tons knits + 10000 mt. Woven Fabric 4 point system for fabric checking: Up to 3 inches 1 point 3-6 inches 2 points 6-9 inches 3 points Over 9 inches 4 points Holes and openings 0-1 inches 2 points Over 1 inches 4 points Total defects points per 100 sq. Yard are calculated, and normally those fabric rolls

containing more than 40 points per 100 sq. Yard are considered "seconds". However different buyers have their different acceptance criteria. Most prominent fabric faults to be looked upon are: Mending hole Hole Knitting fault Barre Color tinting Stain Kitty Crease As the rolls are being inspected, the inspector has to fill in a form for his reference as well. This form is called the matrix fabric inspection report. It contains the following details: Fabric: the type of fabric which is being inspected Supplier: the supplier of the fabric Color: the color of the fabric Width required Lot no Style no Buyer; the buyer's name Width received GSM required GSM received No. Of rolls As the rolls are being inspected, the roll no is noted down. For every roll no the following Details have to be determined as well as calculated: 1. No. Of pieces: these are the number of fabric pieces in the whole roll. If the fabric has a defect which is stretched over a particular length and width, then the fabric is cut from that portion, hence two pieces are obtained within the same roll. 2. Weight of the fabric roll

3. GSM calculated 4. Width: the width is found out in the starting, middle and at the end. This is to see if there is any width variation within the roll as it would give problems in cutting then. 5. Points calculation: this is to see how many defects lie under the category of 1 point, 2 point, 3 point or 4 point and there respective total. 6. Total points 7. This tells weather to grade the fabric as A, B,C or D grade. 0-25% A grade-accepted 25-50% B grade - under decision 50-75% C grade- under decision 75% and above D grade- rejected Comments: the comments are made regarding the defects. It is to classify the defects on the basis of yarn defects, knitting defects or processing defects. After the roll is inspected, it is packed again in plastic sheets and two types of stickers are put on them. One of the stickers has the following details. 1. Style no 2. Buyer 3. Combo 4. Purchase order no. 5. Party 6. Date 7. Roll no. 8. Lot no. 9. Required size 10. Actual size act 11.GSM 12. Quantity 13. Yarn lot: contains the no. Of defects This sticker is put on the fabric roll that is packed. The other sticker that is put on the roll is the colored sticker that tells about the grade of the fabric.

The color code is: 1. Light green-passed from inspection-A grade 2. Yellow- non conforming or under decision-B & C grade 3. Red - rejected from inspection - D grade

Trims Store : The Trims Store holds the following : Twill Tape Main Label Size Label Sewing Thread Embroidery Thread Wash care Label Asia Pacific Sticker Price Ticket Poly bag Sticker Poly bag Hang Tag Carton

When the Trims are received by the Store firstly the quantities are checked. The bill against the P.O. contains the quantity. For checking the quality of the Trims received random boxes are opened and checked.

Knitting Section
Matrix Clothing (P) Ltd. Has its own knitting section which provides 100% Rib and satisfies 10-15% requirement of fabric. Chiefly Fabric for Sampling is produced in the knitting section, but they also produce fabric for shortages and urgent fabric requirements. There are 8 circular knitting machines. 1. 2 Electronic Jacquard machines (Diameter-31, Gauge-24). 2. 1 Rib Maker machine (Diameter-30, Gauge-18). 3. Mini Jacquard machine (Diameter-30, Gauge-28). 4. 2 Single Jersey (4 Track) machines (Diameter-30, Gauge-28).

The section also has 12 flat bed knitting machines (Bed-80, Gauge-14). There are 3 fabric Inspection machines. One coning machine. The knitting unit does not have a fabric finishing facility. This is the reason why the knitted fabric has to be sent outside for finishing. The management is planning to have an in-house finishing facility very soon. The knitting unit can then supply the fabric to the sewing floors in a very short lead time. Per day capacity of this unit is 1 Ton (produced in 24 hours). On an average the kitting unit provides 20-22 Tons fabric to the sewing floors.

PRODUCTION PLANNING A line plan is made by the planning department. The capacity for each line is determined according to the SAM. This helps in putting the target for the particular line so as to meet the shipment date. While setting the line plan the efficiency of each line is taken around 50-55%. This is because of normal and abnormal absenteeism as well as the current efficiency of normal working of the operators. This line plan is made for each floor separately as well as for each line. It consists of the line number, date, the target to be set, the style number, the output to be delivered as well as the target output of the whole day for the entire floor. Moreover, the planning can also be made on historical data as in certain lines would be good at handling specific styles hence when the same style returns it can allotted to the same line. The line to be selected for the particular style is decided on various issues. These are: 1. If it is repeat order for the line 2. Particular buying house wants that particular line to make their product. 3. Particular buying house wants that particular floor to make their product. This line plan is reviewed every day and the changes are incorporated every week. These changes may be made because of inefficiency of the line, style gets delayed due to various reasons such as the fabrics and trims were not available on time etc. The planning department also makes Daily Production Reports and Line Wise Reports which help them to keep a track of the production and make planning if anything goes wrong. Full cooperation with the merchandising department is necessary

CAD Section
The Process of CAD department : Development of pattern as per Style/Order

Fit/P.P. Approval

CAD Average

Fabric Ordered Accordingly

Shrinkage test

Development of pattern as per Allowance

Final Marker/Patter Ready

Pattern Send to Production Floor

The CAD department has the responsibility to provide the Sampling department and the Sewing floors with the correctly developed patterns. The CAD dept. must take special care of marker efficiency in order to utilise the fabric in the best possible way.

Spreading and Cutting

At Unit I : No. Of Tables - 4 No. Of Straight Knife Cutting Machines 5 No. Of Operators 26 Types of fabrics handled fleece, RFD, Auto Striped, Engineered Striped, solid pique. (only knits) Per Day Cutting Capacity : Solid Pieces : 5000-6000 Striped Pieces : 2000-2500 Per Day Fabric Consumption : Solid : 1800-2000 Kg. Striped : 500 Kg. Get the Order Quantity from the P.O.

Order the required fabric from the store

Check the CAD average of the P.O.

Receive the Fabric

Cut the front and back mock for shrinkage test

Give the shrinkage percentage along the CAD Requisition

Allot the fabric to the cutting tables

The Fabric is spread and cut

Bundling of Garment parts

Ticketing and numbering on cut parts

Feed the bundles to the lines

Generate the Internal Issue Slip

Standard Operating Procedure Before Cutting Fabric : 1. Measure the widths of three different fabric lots. 2. Generally Cut able Width = Actual Width 2 or 3. 3. Segregate the fabric lots according to the width. 4. Cut the mocks from these lots and send them for washing. 5. Get the width wise and length wise shrinkage of the fabric. 6. Finally the width of the fabric will be received and confirmed. 7. Hence according to the garment ratio and lay lot planning the CAD department gives the final length of the layers. Spreading and Cutting Activity :

Fabric # 1
Style No. - 94468 Colour - Rust Fabric - Fleece Garment Timberland Sweatshirt Total Fabric Quantity = 478 Kg.

Size Ratio S : M : L : XL : XXL 48 : 150 : 197 : 177 : 109 No. Of Plies Spread = 45 Time Taken in Spreading (45 plies) = 51 minutes Time Taken in Cutting (45 plies) = 45 minutes No. Of Operators Involved = 2 Length of Lay = 146.5 inch Width of Lay = 70 inch Lay Height = 4 inch

Total P.O. of 478 Kg. is cut in 2 days. 25th May 93 kg. / 243 pieces 27th May 385 kg. / 438 pieces Table utilized for this P.O. = 1 Operators = 5 Straight Knife Cutting m/c = 2

Type of Fabric Fleece

Readings (in seconds) 35 37 36 38 35 33 36 35 51 38 37.4

Average Time

Allowance Spreading SAM/ply Observations : 1. 2. 3. 4.

15% 0.73

Total No. Of plies were 45. The spreading time was 51 minutes. The entire layer was cut in 45 minutes. The operators Santosh and RajKumar were quick in handling the fabric defects.

Suggestions : 1. The layer height went 1 above the mandatory lay height i.e. 3. This can restrict the proper movement of the knife hence the number of plies for fleece should be max. 35. 2. The scissors must be sharpened so that the spreading time can be reduced. 3. A lot of time is wasted on fetching things like scissors, tape, paper. These things must be sorted and put at specific places. 4. After the layer is set there was no marker, the marker must be brought in as the spreading starts.

Fabric # 2
Style No. - 67499 Colour - White Fabric - Pique Garment - T-shirt Total Fabric Quantity = 91 Kg. Size Ratio S : M : L : XL : XXL 43 : 86 : 64 : 32 : 109 No. Of Plies Spread = 32

Time Taken in Spreading (32 plies) = 35 minutes Time Taken in Cutting (32 plies) = 57 minutes No. Of Operators Involved = 2 Length of Lay = 236 cm Width of Lay =208 cm Lay Height = 2.5 inch Total P.O. of 91 Kg. is cut in 1 day. 1 June 93 kg. / 268 pieces Table utilized for this P.O. = 1 Operators = 5 Straight Knife Cutting m/c = 2 Type of Fabric RFD Pique Readings (in seconds) 63 66 58 68 66 75 60 55 53 57 62.1 15% 1.19

Average Time Allowance Spreading SAM/ply Observations :

1. The operators were a bit slow in spreading and required the help in placing the marker properly.

Suggestions : 1. The operators must be educated about dropping the waste bits in the dust bins and keeping the walking area clean.

Fabric # 3
Style No. - 91443 Colour - Dark Navy Garment Rugby T-shirt Total Fabric Quantity = 466 Kg. No. Of Plies Spread = 52 Time Taken in Spreading (52 plies) = 126 minutes Time Taken in Cutting (52 plies) = 94 minutes No. Of Operators Involved = 3 Length of Lay = 34 inch Width of Lay =14 inch Lay Height = 2.5 inch Total P.O. of 466 Kg. is cut in 1 day. 2nd June 466 kg. / 613 pieces Table utilized for this P.O. = 1 Operators = 8 Straight Knife Cutting m/c = 2

Type of Fabric Autostriper Jersey

Activity Block Cutting

Readings (in seconds) 38 37 36

47 26 28 34 34 34 24 Average Time Allowance SAM (Block Cutting) 33.8 15% 0.65

Type of Fabric Autostriper Jersey

Activity Bundling

Readings (in seconds) 58 57 40 32 32 37 45 29 37 33 40 15% 0.77

Average Time Allowance SAM (Bundling)

Type of Fabric Autostriper Jersey

Activity Layering

Readings (in seconds) 26 20 22 13 15 18

31 20 19 15 Average Time Allowance SAM (Layering) 19.9 15% 0.38

Type of Fabric Autostriper Jersey

Activity Sleeve Spreading

Readings (in seconds) 40 35 34 50 45 50 55 30 25 27 39.1 15% 0.75

Average Time Allowance SAM (Sleeve Spreading)

Spreading and Cutting

At Unit II (3rd Floor) : No. Of Tables - 4 No. Of Straight Knife Cutting Machines 3 No. Of Operators 10

Types of fabrics handled Woven (printed and checked) Per Day Cutting Capacity : 7000 pieces approx. Per Day Fabric Consumption : 4300-4500 mts.

# Fabric : 1
Garment: Boxer Mens Buyer : Abercrombie & Fitch Style : IL6184 (Checked) Width : 58 Layer Length : 5 yards No. Of Plies : 245 No. Of Operators : 3 No. Of cutting m/c : 2 Spreading Time : 2 hours 53 minutes Cutting Time : 1 hour 05 minutes

Type of Fabric Woven Check

Readings (in seconds) 34 37 30 38 30 34 31 36 32 40

Average Time Allowance Spreading SAM/ply

34.2 15% 0.66

Observations : 1. The checked fabric layer requires manual flow matching of patters which can take around 1-1.5 hours. 2. There is only 1 pattern Master available for flow matching.

# Fabric : 2
Garment: Boxer Mens Buyer : Hollister (A&F) Style : IL6184 (Printed) Width : 59.5 Layer Length : 7 yards No. Of Plies : 30 No. Of Operators : 3 No. Of cutting m/c : 2 Spreading Time : 20 minutes Cutting Time : 52 minutes
Type of Fabric Woven Printed Readings (in seconds) 32 32

34 32 31 30 32 34 34 37 Average Time Allowance Spreading SAM/ply 32.8 15% 0.63

Observations: 1. There were 3 operators involved in the spreading of the layer. 2. We had the opportunity of removing one operator and as a result the time taken to spread 1 ply shot up by 15 seconds. 3. This was because the operators had to travel along the table twice for spreading the ply and once for setting it.

Stitching
Style - #91443 Auto Striped Rugby T-Shirt. Timberland. As the result of Time Study :
S No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Zig -Zag stitch on Collar Collar Run stitch Collar Top Stitch Collar Band Attach Deco Stitch on Band Cuff Join Name of the Operation SMV 0.76 0.81 0.68 0.86 0.83 0.65

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 *

Cuff Run stitch Placket to Placket Attach Placket Attach to Body Placket Tape attach to tape Placket Edge Stitch Placket Close and Finish Placket Box Making Label Attach to patch label patch attach to moon Moon Attach to Back Shoulder Attach Shoulder Turn & Stitch Sleeve Attach Armhole Topstitch Bottom Hem Stay Stitch to Neck Collar Attach to body Collar Finish Side Seam Attach & Placket Serge Slit Tape Attach Slit Tape Finish Cuff Attach Turn & Stitch on Attached Cuff Wash Care Label Attach Final Tack Garment SAM

0.78 0.52 0.85 0.61 0.65 1.2 1.12 0.55 1 0.7 0.52 0.5 1.23 0.75 0.78 0.51 1.09 1.2 1.4 1.05 0.9 0.85 0.7 0.42 0.42 24.89

Learning :

1. The critical operations in a Rugby T shirt are in the Placket and Collar. 2. A Critical Operation also known as the bottle neck operation is responsible for the increased throughput time of a piece. 3. To get proper output at end of line these critical operations must be taken care of. 4. There are 5 operations in a collar this is the reason why collar was being prepared in a different line.

5. The other critical operation is the Placket. It also has 5 operations in it. 6. Though the operations in the placket are included in the main line these operations are done by one highly skilled operator so as to supply proper feeding. 7. Moreover during the setup time for the style a few operators produce enough feeding (Front with placket attached & Moon, Label attached to Back). 8. The other assembly operations such as Sleeve Attach, Collar Attach to Body, Collar Finish, Side Seam attach and Placket Serge are done by skilled operators who have years of experience in the same operation. 9. The WIP between operations is around 25 pieces. 10. The operators are on a piece rate payment basis. 11. The maximum output of the line is 450 pieces per day. 12. The number of machines in a line is 30. Style - #1L6184 Menswear Printed Boxer Short. Hollister. As the result of Time Study :
S No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Name of the Operation Complete Fly Attach Join Back Rise Turn & Stitch Back Rise Join Inseam Turn & Stitch Inseam Side Attach Side Finish Bottom Hem Mark on Waistband & Elastic put in bundle Waistband Over lock Tack elastic to waistband Turn & Stitch on Waistband Bar tack Attach Label to Waistband Unfold & Elastic cutting SMV 2.45 0.5 0.14 0.34 0.3 0.61 0.42 0.65 0.24 0.17 0.61 0.4 0.31 0.36 0.14

16 17 18 *

Elastic Ring Making Elastic Marking Label To Elastic Garment SAM

0.2 0.15 0.53 8.52

Learning : 1. The critical operation in a Boxer short is the fly operation. 2. The operators on the 3rd floor are on salaried basis, but the fly operation is done by piece rate operators. 3. This is because the piece rate operators can prepare enough front panels for feeding in the line quickly. 4. The in line WIP is maintained at 200-250. 5. The WIP between operations is 25 pieces. 6. The hourly target for the line is set, if the target is not achieved the remaining pieces are added up to the target of the next hour. 7. The maximum output of the line is 1500 pieces in 10 hours. 8. The number of machines in a line is 24.

Embroidery
Matrix Clothing has an in house embroidery department. Punching in the software and ultimately in the machine. Embroidery work flow Get the Design (design data) Ready and check the Embroidery machine, fabric/thread Original drawing Scanner Enlargement of original drawing Dg/ml floppy disc Embroidery Finishing Quality check Setting of fabric

 Putting the foam Setting of upper and under thread Embroidery is the decorative stitching on the fabric. It is either in the form of a brand name or label or it could be some form of motif or design. The buyer to the merchandiser supplies this design. The merchandiser supplies the design to the embroidery department. Machine embroidery over here can be described through two factors. One is by the sewing machine to manually create a design on a piece of fabric or other similar item. This is usually done for making new samples for the design department. The other factor for the embroidery machine is to use specially designed, computerized embroidery machine to automatically create a design from a pre made pattern that is input into the machine. Industrial embroidery machines are with automatic technology that can process and output complex designs that have been stored in a computer. Computerized embroidery machines are commonly used in product development operations and mass production of repeat patterns. The patterns to be embroidered are scanned on to the computer and using the software es65 Wilcom are converted into embroidery designs that will be put into the floppy which would be then eventually put into the machine that will recognize the commands and do the embroidery. The embroidery process includes the following steps: 1. Sorting the pieces on the basis of size 2. Scanning the design 3. Punching the design into the software 4. Marking of the pieces 5. Framing of the pieces 6. Loading the pieces (includes the loading of foam) 7. Embroidery 8. Unloading of the pieces (includes the simultaneous removal of frames) 9. Finishing There are typically 3 types of stitches

1. Run stitch- This stitch is the initial stitch that outlines the main design to be embroidered. These are of three types Simple run stitch- its a single line. Triple run stitch- this stitch is runs on the same outline three times to make it thick Motif run stitch- the motif will be run as a stitch. This is done when patches are used. The Placement of the motif is first made through stitches and then the patch of the motif is put. 2. Satin stitch- This stitch is long stitch that fills from one end to the other 3. Tatami stitch- This stitch is also known as the fill stitch, it fills up the base. It is of two types : Zig- zag stitch- this runs in a zig zag fashion. E stitch-in this type of the stitch there is space between the stitches. There are a total of three computerized machines in the embroidery department. They are: 1. Tajima (Japanese make) 6 colors 20 heads head to head distance-200mm flat design, used for production 2. Zsk (German make) 9 colors 20 heads Head to head distance -- 300 mm embossed design, used for production 3. Zsk (German make) 11 colors 6 Head Used for sampling Foam or fusing is used while embroidering the pieces. This foam is usually to avoid the contraction and expansion of garment pieces or panels. The type of foam to be used depends upon the requirement of the buyer. The various foams used are:

1. Water soluble fusing. This fusing is used in case of women's garments. It is used while embroidering and is removed during the wash the cost is relatively high, around Rs. 24/meter. 2. Random fusing: this is usually used in case where the backing of embroidery has to be removed. It is used in case of low costing and comes at a range of 20-30 GSM. 3. 90 RDM foam: it is a cut able foam this is usually used in case of embossing effect. The cost is Rs. 4/meter 4. Tear able both side foam: this type of foam is used in the design which involve some text form on them. It is not tore off but cut from the design. It comes as 45 gsm and the cost is around Rs. 5/meter. 5. Tear able one side foam (tpoi): this type of foam is used in pairs. The look of the design is firm and good and is available in the market at the cost of Rs. 3/meter. The threads which are used in the embroidery machine are usually cotton blend threads With polyester, cotton threads or viscose threads. The type of thread and the count to be used should be appropriate so as to avoid any thread breakages, clogging of stitches or poor finishing of embroidery. The various thread companies are: 1. Madeira- Rs.65/1000m 2. Telephone- Rs. 14/800m 3. Oswal-Rs.l6/800m 4. Vardhman- Rs. 10/400m 5. Coats sylko-Rs.52/1000m The type of needle to be used depends largely on the type of machine and application. In embroidery the standard needle is db x k5 # 11.

Flow Process Time Taken (approx.)

Ply/Garment Received

0.21 minute

Marking on Panel/Garment

0.23 minute (1.46+2.31+1.92 ) minute

Framing (1.02+0.25) minute Machine Time (Placing, Uptime, Removal)

Finishing (Thread Cutting, Checking)

Despatch to Location

** On an average 20 head embroidery machine produces 20, 1X1 inch embroidery designs in 10 minutes.

WASHING
Washing is an important factor in the overall production of the garment. After the garment has been produced to all the required specifications, it is essential to send it for washing to remove any unnecessary stains and also to impart certain types of finishes that are desired by the buyer for his product washing adds to the aesthetic sense of the garment. Work force: 15 Type of washes: 1) Enzyme Wash 2) Garment Wash 3) Softener Wash (silicon wash)

4) Machine Wash (normal detergent) 5) Bleach wash These washes given were depending upon mainly on the buyer's specification. Some other factors also contribute to their selection, like - Fabric strength, type of effect needed, color of fabric, total costing of the fabric. Garments are washed after they have been properly stitched. Not only garments are washed but also cut fabrics. These fabrics are termed as cut panel laundry. They are those fabrics which have abrupt shrinkage. The fabrics are cut according to their desired length of the marker and then sent for the washing. This is done for pre shrinking. It is required so that the fabrics can shrunk before cutting so that no further shrinking can take place. Thus the shrinkage is adjusted. The Process is called CPL : Cut Panel Length Prerequisites for CPL : 1. Cut the panels based on the layer length and add the shrinkage based on the lab report for CPL wash. 2. Cut panel has to be dipped in normal water for 3-4 hours under normal room temperature. 3. After dipping process the panel should be hydrated to extract the water from it. 4. Panels should be properly dried in tumbles at a temperature of 70 C. 5. Once the panels dry then the panels should be taken out from the tumble gently to avoid the stretch during handling. Enzyme wash: The Process flow of this type of wash is as follows: Desizing Rinse Enzyme Rinse Finishing agent For enzyme wash the temp of around 50-60 degree Celsius is maintained. The thinner the fabric lesser the temperature is. Garment wash: In this the garments are washed normally. The spots and stains axe removed by using

Acetone and Vinyl. The solution of soap, Acetone and Vinyl are prepared and applied manually by small tooth brushes. Basically water is used for removing sand and soil stains. Acetone is used for removing ink stains. Vinyl is used for removing hard stains like oil spots etc. Softener wash: This is done to give finishing to the garments and fabric. The garments are treated with some finishing agents like silicone etc to give a soft and smooth feel to the garments. 5 to 10 pieces are first tested. If the fabric is soft in feel then it requires less softener and for fabrics with harsh feel the application of softener is comparatively much more. If the fabrics turn out to be less soft than they treat it again with softener. Different type of softeners are: Anionic softener Cationic softener Silicone softener In silicone washing a pool of water is made in which silicone is added, the fabrics are dipped into the pool for 45 min. The water is generally luke warm water. There is no temperature control for silicone wash. There are two types of chemical used for silicone wash. They are 196 Ultra Resin and 180 Wakar.196 ultra resin is thinner and is used for light fabrics. It is comparatively cheaper than number 180 which is thick as well as used for darker fabrics.10 litre water along with 1.5 kg silicone is used for 300 polo t-shirts. Machine wash: The garments are washed with detergents in washing machines. The detergents used are generally specified by the buyer, generally Ariel, Surf excel and Tide are used as detergents. The detergent must be of a non ionic base. A 50 Kg. can is issued to the washing unit each day. 400g. detergent is used up in washing 100 garments. The time taken for washing : White Fabric : 10 minutes Printed / Coloured Fabric : 5 minutes Enzyme Wash : 20 minutes

Bleach wash: For white garments bleach is used to remove various types of stains. The bleaching amount also depends upon the type of fabric used. If the fabric is light lesser quantity of bleach is used or vice-versa. The machines that are used are: 1. Stefab machine-25 kg capacity 2. 2 Fabcare machines-100 kg. Capacity

4 cemented baths are also used for carrying out washing operations (CPL). After the washes the fabrics or garments are put in the hydro for about 10 minutes. This is done to remove the soap from the garment pieces by the rapid action of water. There are 3 hydro extractor machines (50 kg,50 kg,25 kg capacity each).

As the counting of total no. of pieces can be tiresome job for the washing operators. Thus a single garment piece is weighed and accordingly the no of pieces are put in to hydro machine. The 3 hydro machines are: 2 Stefab machines - 50 kg capacity. 1 Stefab machine - 25 kg capacity

Tumble machine is also used in washing process. This machine is used to dry the fabrics that come out from the hydro. This removes water from the fabric. The various tumble machines are 1 Fabcare machine-100 kg capacity 2 Stefab machine -25 kg capacity 1 Stefab machine-50 kg capacity 1 Stefab machine - 120 kg. The Time Taken for Tumble Drying : Woven : 25 minutes Knits : 1-1.5 hours. Temperature :

Woven : 35-40 degree C Knits : 70-85 degree C A store wise break up is sent to the washing department which gives the color wise as well as Size wise breakup so that the washing department knows how many pieces are sent in the particular color. It also contains details about the style number, buyer and the shipment date. The shipment is given so that the department knows how to prioritize what style has to be washed first. Thus the washing department is very essential in the overall production process of the garment no matter how much the garment is up to the desired specification but the most important factor is the overall look of the garment.

Finishing
Timberland Rugby : Washing

Thread Cutting/Ticket Removal Dusting

Initial checking

Buttoning

Pressing

Final Checking

Tagging

Measurement

Re-Final Checking

Folding

Poly-bag/ Sealing

Carton

Time Taken for Finishing 1 Rugby T-Shirt

S. No.

Activity

Recorded Time

Thread Cutting/Ticket Removal

3 minute 30 seconds

Dusting

20 seconds

Initial checking

19 seconds

Buttoning

4 seconds

Pressing

1 minute 10 seconds

Final Checking

1 minute 45 seconds

Tagging

6 seconds

Measurement

45 seconds

Re-Final Checking

1 minute 10 seconds

10

Folding

12 seconds

11

Poly-bag/ Sealing

16 seconds

Total Time

9.6 minutes

Hollister Boxer Short :

Washing

Thread Cutting/Ticket Removal Initial Checking

Pressing

Final Checking

Tag Attaching

Folding

Packing

Carton

Time Take for Finishing 1 Boxer Short

S. No.

Activity

Recorded Time

Thread Cutting/Ticket Removal

1 minute 30 seconds

Initial checking

40 seconds

Pressing

25 seconds

Final Checking

1 minute 15 seconds

Tagging

7 seconds

10

Folding

29 seconds

11

Packing

16 seconds

Total Time

4.7 minutes

TESTING
Testing is a critical factor in determining if the fabric and the garment will be performing up to the desired performance in different situations. Testing is a very important aspect of quality management. It is up to the buyer to give certain specifications for various properties of the product under consideration and also the fabric performance specifications for various properties. Though the agencies where testing has to be carried out is suggested by the buyer himself but there are certain tests which are in house. These tests are carried out to determine if the fabric which they have outsourced is of the appropriate quality, the garments which they have been manufacturing are undergoing certain changes which are all because of the default in the specifications by the buyers. the certain tests carried out are:

1. Dimensional stability - shrinkage tests- garment shrinkage is mainly due to laundering, dry cleaning, steaming or pressing. It occurs at three levels: fabric, yarn and fibre. The total observed shrinkage is the resultant shrinkage at these three levels. 2. Crocking- crocking is the test so designed to determine the degree of color that may transfer from the surface of colored textiles to other surfaces by rubbing. The washing, dry cleaning, ironing and finishing, may affect the degree of color transfer from a fabric, the test is usually carried out before or after such a treatment. This test is carried out both in dry and wet conditions with the help of a crock meter. Multi fiber is used which has the fallowing composition: Nylon Polyester Acrylic wool Cotton This fabric is used alongside the fabric to be tested to see the crocking result on different fabrics. 3. Ph value- this test is carried out to determine the dye or soap content in a garment piece. 4. Color fastness to washing- color fastness is the property of a dye or print that enables it to retain its depth and shade throughout the wear life of a product. The colorfastness to washing is tested in launder meter under appropriate conditions of temperature, bleaching and abrasive action. Different types of reagents are used to carry out this type of tests. Also a color matching box is present to check its appearance under different kinds of lights. The different lights are: daylight A+ tube light cool white horizon ultraviolet

It is also tested against the grey scale as well the chromatic transference scale to check the performance level. 5. Count- this test is carried out to determine the count of the yarn. This is carried out with the help of Baisley balance. 6. Performance test o/ garments up to the required level desired there are various tests carried out for rating the performance of the properties which are essentially required in The garment some of these tests are carried out to see the overall strength of the Garment. 7. Skewing - is a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses are angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side of the fabric it is also known as bias. 8. Testing for trims: trims like zippers, buttons and wash care labels are also tested so that they perform up to the desired level of performance. 9. Button snap test- this test is carried out to see the strength of the point where the button is attached. Some of the Test Standards used World wide :

Fabric and Garment Tests

Color Fastness Tests No. 1. Test Parameters Washing Testing Standards ISO 105 C10 BS EN ISO 105-C10 IS 687,3361,764, 765 IS 3417 2. Laundry ISO 105- C06 /C08 BS EN ISO 105-C06 /C08 AATCC 61 No. 1A-5A IS 687,3361,764, 765 IS 13025 3. 4. Perspiration Dry & Wet Crocking/Rubbing ISO 105-E04, IS 971 ISO 105-X12,

AATCC 8 & AATCC 165, IS 766 5. Light a) Xenon Arc (Water Cooled) ISO 105 B 02 BE EN ISO 105 B02 i) BWS 4 or below ii) BWS 5 iii) BWS 6 or above b) AATCC 16 i) 20 Fading Units or below ii) Each Additional 10 fading Units b) MBTL Method i) Fading up to Grade 4 ii) Fading Up to Grade 5 6. water ISO 105-E01 BS EN ISO E01 AATCC 107 IS 767 7. Sea Water ISO 105 E02 AATCC 106 IS 690 8. Chlorinated Water ISO 105 E03 BS EN ISO 105 E03 AATCC 162 9. Dry Cleaning ISO 105-D01 AATCC 132 IS 4802 10. Hot pressing ISO 105-X11 AATCC 133

IS 689 11. Water Spotting ISO 105 E07 AATCC 104 IS 976 12. Acid Spotting ISO 105 E 05 AATCC 6 IS 968 13. Alkali Spotting ISO 105 E 06 AATCC 6 IS 977 14. Bleaching a) Hypochlorite ISO 105 N01 BS EN ISO 105 NO1 AATCC 188 IS 762 b) Peroxide ISO 105 N02 BS EN 105 N02 AATCC 101 c) Oxidative Bleach ISO 105 C09 BS EN ISO 105 C09 AATCC 190 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. Non Chlorine Bleach Solvent SpottingPerchloroethylene Scrubbing Sublimation Mercerization AATCC 172 Each Additional Wash AATCC 157 IS 11908 IS 975 105-X04 IS 979

Each Additional Cycle 20. perspiration and Light a) ISO 105-B07 i) BW 4 ii) BW 5 AATCC 125 i) 20 Fading Unites or Below ii ) Each Additional 10 Fading Units 21. Color fastness to artificial weathering ISO 105-B04 AATCC 111,169 IS 6152