Professional Documents
Culture Documents
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CLARKSON POTTER
641.59455dc23
2013032506
ISBN 978-0-385-34605-4
eBook ISBN 978-0-385-34606-1
Printed in China
Book and jacket design by Jan Derevjanik
Jacket photography by Eric Wolfinger
All photographs are by Eric Wolfinger with the exception of:
pp. 29, 49, 88, 99, 241 by Jeremiah Alley; pp. 5, 38, 63 by
Lorenzo Carlomagno; and p. 21 by David Lang.
Photographs courtesy of the authors: p. 175 by Chiara Sinatti
and pp. 4, 235, and 256.
Cooking Channel photographs on pp. 89, 13, 26, 38, 73,
163, 199, and 231 are provided courtesy of Cooking Channel, LLC.
2011 Cooking Channel, LLC.
Cooking Channel photographs on pp. 31, 176, 210211, and 123 are provided
courtesy of Cooking Channel, LLC. 2012 Cooking Channel, LLC.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First Edition
CONTENTS
Introduction ~ 8
The Tuscan Kitchen: Essentials ~ 12
Appetizers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8
Pastas and Sauces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 6
Risotto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 0
Soups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 4
Salads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
120
Meat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 4
Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 6 0
Vegetables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7 8
Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 9 6
Panini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 0
Desserts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2 8
Drinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 5 8
Acknowledgments ~ 267
Index ~ 269
ESSENTIALS
12
EX T RA
The Pantry
This is literally
liquid gold for Italians, and should be for you, too.
Its a part of nearly every recipe, whether kicking
things off in a heated pan, or gracing a dish at the
end, or both. This culinary lifeblood is produced
everywhere in Italy, but naturally were biased
toward the justifiably coveted, world-famous
Tuscan kind, which ranges from pale and effervescent to dark, green, peppery, and intense,
depending on the region within the region. What
makes olive oil extra virgin is how its extracted
from the glorious, dutiful fruit. If the means are
strictly mechanicalwheels or rocks or machines
that squeeze the juice from the olive without
the use of chemical agentsthen you have the
premium oil, yielding the most fruitiness with
the least acidity (below 0.8% to get labeled extra
virgin). If youve ever seen first cold-pressed
olive oil, which is whats produced from a onetime extraction process without using heat, its so
luminescentgreen and vibrantit can actually
look like automotive coolant! Our suggestion
for what to have on hand is twofold: a high-end,
artisanal bottle imported from Tuscany that you
use for that final drizzle that anoints your meal, and
EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL:
V I RG I N
You always
want to grind black pepper as needed. The preground kind loses so much flavor after it leaves the
factory that theres no comparison.
WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS:
A spicy necessity!
We like to make our own flakes by roasting hot
peppers grown in the summer, letting them dry
for the winter, then opening them up and crushing
HOT RED PEPPER FLAKES:
the
t u s c an
k it c h en
W H O L E P E E L E D P L U M T O M AT O E S ( P E L AT I ) :
These are the basis for many of our sauces: sun-ripened, sweet, and full of flavor. We like them whole
because it allows us to choose whether we want to
pure them, or crush them by hand, depending on
the dish. Unless youre in the mood to give yourself
extra work during in-season months boiling, cooling, and peeling tomatoes yourself, do what even
the big-time chefs do: Enjoy the canned kind, packaged right after ripening, and hardly an inferior
e s s entia l s
13
14
EX T RA
F LO U R :
The less-refined I t a l i a n d o p p i o z e ro
make meringue, c o n f e c t i o n e rs s u g a r is
essential. We keep ra w s u g a r around for sweetening hot drinks like coffee and tea, and for certain
cocktails.
Dont settle for cheap honey in a plastic
bottle shaped like a bear. That dab of high-end
sweetness with your sliced cheese is worth the
extra cents.
H O N E Y:
RICE:
V I RG I N
Its a cheesethe
big cheese, if you will!but its so much more. Its
as much a seasoning for Italians as salt or pepper.
But it has to be Parmigiano-Reggiano, stamped
as such on the rind or the packaging, because
anything else will have a different saltiness and
texture. Dont buy pregrated, either: As it dries, it
loses that softness and a lot of the desired flavor.
And when youre buying the hunk attached
to the rind, check to make sure youre getting
more cheese than rind, since youre buying it by
weightyou dont want half your cost to be in rind.
That said, rinds are wonderful additions to soups
(see pages 104119) and risotti (see pages 90103)
during cooking, so hold on to themTuscans dont
waste anything!
PA R M I G I A N O - R E G G I A N O :
In
the world of ways to salt dishes, these are two
wonderfully flavorful alternatives. Especially when
you want a seasoning kick thats a little more textural, capers and anchovies are great options.
S A LT E D C A P E R S A N D A N C H O V I E S :
are an incredibly
versatile Tuscan staple that have a butteriness
and creaminess that complement many dishes.
B E A N S : Cannellin i b ea n s
the
t u s c an
k it c h en
These treasured
cured-pig seasoningspancetta from the pork
belly and guanciale from the jowlare our favorite
way to imbue a dish with the essence of meat
without actually bringing a hunk of pork to the
table. Chopped into pieces no larger than a caper,
and used as the basis for a sauce, their sudden
appearance when you bite into a forkful of pasta is
like a small gift of flavor that can elevate any eating
experience. Plus, they freezewell.
PA N C E T TA A N D G U A N C I A L E :
e s s entia l s
15
D I
Z U C C A
FRI T T I
Serves 46
D : Gabriele made this for me on our first date. Id always loved zucchini, but wasnt
aware that they produced these wonderful flowers that were delicate and strange-
looking, like a burst of fire on the end of a torch. I cherished the idea of him taking these
beautiful blossomsstraight from his gardenstuffing them with cheese, lightly frying
them, and feeding them to me as if I were a bee being nourished by this tuft of nature.
G : If youre looking to fall in love in summer, there are few things more poetic than
thisdish.
D : And nothing hotter than a man making them for you!
16 zucchini flowers
Use your fingers to carefully dig a hole on the side of each zucchini flower, opening it
enough with your pointer finger to dig out the stamen that is inside. Gently rinse the
flowers under a sprinkle of cold water, taking care to not damage the thin petals, then
spread them out on a kitchen towel and gently pat dry.
In a medium bowl, mix together the ricotta and lemon zest. Fill a piping bag with
the mixture. Carefully pipe 2 to 3 teaspoons of the ricotta mixture into each flower. Twist
the petals to close tightly so the cheese wont escape during frying.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, parsley, a couple of generous pinches
of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Slowly start pouring the beer into the mixture,
using a whisk or a fork to mix the batter, and work it enough to eliminate any lumps.
In a heavy skillet, pour in enough oil to come up a half inch, but no more than halfway up the sides. Heat the oil over high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 350F.
Drag the flowers through the batter, making sure the batter does not get inside the
flower, then slide into the hot oil. Fry for 2 minutes, flipping halfway through, until the
blossom is golden and crisp. Then place them in a large dish on a couple of layers of paper
towel to drain the excess oil. Salt to taste while the oil is still hot. Serve immediately.
36
EX T RA
V I RG I N
G : History tells us that Grisciano shepherds would cook this dish as they traveled from
the mountains of Central Italy to Rome to sell their cheese and pigs. With the cured pig
jowl known as guanciale hanging from their belts, theyd stop to feed themselves by
slicing off bits of the guanciale and making this powerful traditional recipe. In certain
ways it is the mother of two very famous meat-essential pasta sauces, the Amatriciana
(page 69) and the Carbonara (page 74), and though you can be forgiven for substituting
pancetta (which comes from pork belly), guanciale is the way to go. Its that much more
delicious. Why else would those shepherds keep it with them at all times? I also added
sage leaves to the recipe, since I think that surely a shepherd camping by a river would
forage for some wild herbs to cook with it. (Well, at least I would!)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil,
plus more for serving
In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking.
Add the guanciale and cook for about 10 minutes, making sure the meat does not get too
crunchy.
Add the garlic and cook for another 2 minutes, until both the guanciale and garlic
are a golden brown. (If you see the garlic browning too fast, you can always remove it
from the pan and add it back in later.) Add the sage, cook for 2 minutes, and remove the
sauce from the heat.
In an 8- to 12-quart pot, bring 6 quarts of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the pasta
and use a wooden fork to stir the pasta so it wont stick together. Cook until al dente.
Drain and add to the sauce in the pan. Toss over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Add the
34 cup Pecorino and toss for 1 more minute.
Garnish with grated Pecorino, a drop of extra virgin olive oil, and freshly ground
black pepper.
pasta
a nd
sau c es
71
OCTOPUS SALAD
IN S A LATA
D I
P O LP O
Serves 6
G : This warm-ish salad makes for a great meal. Octopus requires attention at first,
because if you overdo it during the initial cooking, it gets too mushy. Youre looking for
that window when the octopus has bite, yet breaks in your mouth. Many cooks have their
tricks regarding thisincluding adding a wine cork to the pot, since the cork contains an
acid that tenderizes protein. But the trick I subscribe to is adding white wine vinegar to
the boil and letting the octopus cool in its own bath of cooking water.
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
2 garlic cloves
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the octopus, garlic, carrot, celery, and vinegar, stir well, and cover. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 30 to 45 minutes,
until tender but still a little firm. Remove from the heat and let the octopus cool in the
cooking water for about 30 minutes.
In a large pot, combine the potatoes and cold water and bring to a boil. Cook for 10
to 15 minutes, until just tender. Drain, cool, peel, and cut the potatoes into 1-inch cubes.
In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat until hot.
Add the potatoes and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook for 7 to 10 minutes, until
browned on all sides. Add the tomatoes and toss for 1 minute, or until softened. Set aside.
Using a knife, remove the head from the octopus and cut the tentacles into 12-inch
pieces. If you use the head, remove the teeth and cartilage with a paring knife. Cut the
head into thin strips no more than 112 inches long.
In a large skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over high heat until just
smoking. Add the chopped octopus in a single layer, lightly season with salt and pepper,
and cook undisturbed for 5 to 6 minutes, until well seared on one side. Flip and cook an
additional 5 minutes to sear the other side. Remove from the heat.
On a platter, make a bed of the arugula and top with the potatoes and the octopus.
Sprinkle with the chives and dress with the lemon juice.
130
EX T RA
V I RG I N
Pur
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CLARKSON POTTER