Edible Iowa River Valley #17, Harvest 2010

EIRV 2010-09 - Issue 17 - Harvest - draft:Layout 1 8/16/10 11:31 AM Page 1
edible
IOWA RIVER VALLEY®
Celebrating the Abundance of Iowa’s Local Foods, Season by Season
Number 17 Harvest, 2010
Member of Edible Communities

www.EdibleIowa.com
Contents eiFriends
Harvest 2010
All of us at Edible Iowa are proud to call these folks our
Departments Friends. ey understand the importance of supporting
local farms, local food, and the local economy.
5 Grist for the Mill
Canned Goods Be sure to visit the eiFriends listed here, and thank them for
6 Season to Season supporting local, sustainable food and Edible Iowa River
Pear Chutney Valley. You can also follow many of them via Edible’s regular
7 Back of the House posts on Facebook and Twitter.
Detrás de la Casa—By Brian Morelli
To join the growing list of eiFriends, please contact us at
8 Behind Closed Doors 319.337.7885 or Kim@EdibleIowa.com
Eating with Style—By Rob Cline
16 Buy Fresh Buy Local Update El Banditos—pg. 30
Stocking the Pantry—By Elizabeth Brown Bur Oaks Farm—pg. 30
22 Notables Cafe del Sol Roasting—pg. 21
Food News & Tidbits from Around the State Classic Smiles—pg. 4
23 Edible Bazaar Colony Inn—pg. 21
One Stop Shopping for the Best in Local Businesses Cook-off for a Cure—pg. 26
27 Vote for Your Local Heroes Devotay—pg. 36
28 The 99
Edible Bazaar—pg. 23
Scott County Divide—By Brandi Janssen Edible Marketplace—pg. 35
e Englert eatre—pg. 26
34 The Last Word
Sherri Brooks Vinton’s Put’em Up!—By Kurt Michael
Fireside Winery—pg. 21
Friese
Field to Family—pgs. 17-20
Freighthouse Farmers Market—pg. 21
Hills Bank—pg. 26
Iowa City Farmers Market—pg. 4
Features Jasper Winery—pg. 27
John’s Grocery—pg. 21
9 An Open Letter to the People of Iowa L. May—pg. 33
An Appeal for Your Vote for Secretary of Agriculture—By La Reyna—pg. 25
Francis icke Local Heroes—pg. 27
10 The Purple Time Locally Grown—pg. 4
Enjoying Wild Berries and Fruits of Iowa—By eresa Madhouse Brewing—pg. 21
Marrone MidWestOne Bank—pg. 29
12 Outstanding in their Fields Mote Wealth Management—pg. 21
Practical Farmers of Iowa Gives Producers New Ways to Motley Cow—pg. 13
Network—By Renee Brincks New Pioneer Co-op—pg. 33
14 Sauces Full of Secrets—By Tim Rask Oneota Community Co-op—pg. 30
17 Field to Family Peace Tree Brewing—pg. 27
A Special Program Section for is Year’s Festival of Local Pepper Sprout—pg. 29
Foods Pet Central Station—pg. 16
24 WHAT Is They Feedin’ Our Kids?
Robinson Family Wellness—pg. 26
Q&A with Break-Beat Poet Idris Goodwin—By Katie
Rubaiyat—pg. 25
Roche Scattergood—pg. 33
Seed Savers Exchange—pg. 36
31 Welcome to the Good Burger
Share Wine Lounge—pg. 30
Short’s Burger & Shine Brings Local Food - and Beer -
Tassel Ridge Winery—pg. 2
Down to Earth—By Stephanie Catlett Templeton Rye—pg. 30
Terri Wiebold—pg. 26
University Lecture Committee—pg. 33
USA Pears—pg. 6
On the cover:
Canned Goods - Painting by Beppie Weiss
Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 3

edible
IOWA RIVER VALLEY ®
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & PUBLISHER
Kurt Michael Friese
MANAGING EDITOR
Kim McWane Friese
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Christine Cuda
WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS

Renee Brincks Brian Morelli
Elizabeth Brown Lisa Phillips
Matt Butler John Photos
Stephanie Catlett Tim Rask
Rob Cline Katie Roche
Luke Gran Francis Thicke
Brandi Janssen Sherri Brooks Vinton
Teresa Marrone
DESIGNED BY
Kurt Michael Friese
CONTACT US
Edible Iowa River Valley
22 Riverview Drive, NE
Iowa City, Iowa 52240-7973
Telephone: 319.337.7885
www.EdibleIowa.com — info@EdibleIowa.com
CUSTOMER SERVICE
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subscribers with fast, friendly service.
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Edible Iowa River Valley is published with the seasons by River
Valley Press, LLC. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $28
annually. No part of this publication may be used in any form
without written permission from the publisher. ©2010.
Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions.
If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our
sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.
Proudly printed in Iowa.
4 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

grist for
the mill
Dear Eater,
We’ve got a jam-packed harvest issue here so we’ll just get right to it. First off, proper respect to Iowa City artist Beppie Weiss for the wonder-
ful painting that graces the cover as we kick off our fifth year (!) of bringing you the best local food and food news in the state.
Lots of new stuff this go - new departments and new writers. Check out our two new series: Season to Season, a recipe ready to be made right
now; and Edible Bazaar, our new “classified ads,” bringing you the best in Iowa’s locally owned businesses.
New writers include Elizabeth Brown with the return of the Buy Fresh - Buy Local Update; Brandi Janssen takes the baton for our ongoing
county-by-county series e 99; and Stephanie Catlett has a portrait of the great Iowa City burger joint Short’s Burger and Shine.
We’ve a couple guests in our midst as well. Edible Iowa has never before made any sort of political endorsement, but we knew when Francis
icke announced his candidacy for Secretary of Agriculture we had to get behind him. In his open letter on page nine, you can see why. We
also have a recipe from Sherri Brook’s Vinton’s new book Put’em Up in our new Season to Season section (and it’s profiled in e Last Word),
and even more from wild food forager Teresa Marrone from her new book Cooking with Wild Berries and Fruits of Illinois, Iowa and Missouri.
All our usual suspects are here too. Brian and Rob return on their usual beats (Back of the House and Behind Closed Doors, respectively).
Renee Brincks is back with a story on Practical Farmers of Iowa, and Tim Rask returns and gets all saucy on us.
Dig in, we hope you enjoy. And please don’t forget to visit the eiFriends listed on page three, they all support local food and make Edible
Iowa possible. We have lots of new ones too, so please support them!
With Relish,
PS: We are all over the Internet, with active streams on Twitter and Facebook, as well as our fan-
tastic new podcast, e Blue Plate Special, on www.EdibleRadio.com, starring Kurt and his sister
Christine. Tune In, Turn On, Eat Up!
Harvest season is upon us, so that means it’s

Subscription Time!
See what’s growing in Iowa all year long.
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Season to Season
It’s harvest time, which
means time to Put’em Up!
is season’s recipe comes
from the author of the
book by that name, Sherri
Brooks Vinton. You can
read all about her new
book on page 34, and
(even better), you can
meet the author and see
her demonstrate this very
recipe at the Iowa City
Farmers Market Septem-
ber 4th, as well as during
this year’s Field to Family
celebration (more on that
on pages 17-20)
is chutney is a natural
companion for Indian
dishes or “low-and-slow” recipes, such as pot roast or
baked ham.
Pear Chutney
4 cups chopped pears (4–6 pears)

2 cups apple cider vinegar
2 cups brown sugar, lightly packed
1 cup finely chopped onions
1 cup golden raisins
1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons ground allspice
1 teaspoon salt
Combine the pears, vinegar, brown sugar,
onions, raisins, ginger, garlic, allspice, and salt
in a large nonreactive saucepan, and bring to
a boil, stirring constantly until the sugar dissolves.
Reduce the heat to medium-low and
simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Remove from the heat.
To Preserve
Refrigerate: Ladle into bowls or jars. Cool,
cover, and refrigerate for up to 3 weeks.
Can: Use the boiling-water method. Ladle
into clean, hot pint canning jars, leaving 1/2 inch
of headspace. Release trapped air. Wipe the
rims clean; center lids on the jars and screw
on jar bands. Process for 15 minutes. Turn off
heat, remove canner lid, and let jars rest in the
water for 5 minutes. Remove jars and set aside
for 24 hours. Check seals, then store in a cool,
dark place for up to 1 year.
Makes about 5 pints

Back of the House

Story & Photo
By Brian Morelli Detrás
de la
Casa
It all started with mom’s recipes. The secret to jarring is to cook the sauce to 200 degrees, pour it in the
jar hot, screw on a lid with a seal and flip it over to rest upside down
Mercy Sueppel, born into a Spanish family in San Antonio, fed her for about an hour and a half. Sealed like this, the salsa has a shelf life
kids the same spicy dishes she was raised on, her parents and grandpar- of three and a half years, Sueppel-Lansdon said. The salsa must be re-
ents ate as children, and the same meals that lined the menu at her frigerated after opening, and the cheese sauces, beans and dip need to
family-run restaurant for 25 years. The enchiladas, the fajitas, the re- be refrigerated at all times.
fried beans and, of course, the salsa, were staples for the Sueppel fam-
ily and La Casa restaurant. They make about 252 jars of salsa a day, and it remains their most
popular item.
Growing up, and even today, “the salsa is always on the table” in the
Sueppel house, no matter what’s on the menu, steak, eggs, potatoes, “I go into Hy-Vee and the store manager shows me a list of all 350
you name it, papa Bob Sueppel said. Mexican items they stock on the shelves, and we are usually No. 1,”
brother Bart Sueppel said. “So, they tell their friends.”
It was the same at the restaurant, and on Sundays when La Casa,
which translates to “the house”, remained closed, customers could buy Word of mouth has helped spread La Casa across the state.
it in jars in advance and have it at their home.
Sueppel makes the deliveries all over Iowa and into Illinois. His terri-
Back when the jarring operation first began, in 1989, Mercy Sueppel tory is Des Moines to the west, Mt. Pleasant to the south, Charles
would get started at the crack of dawn. By 5 a.m., she was heating up City to the north and Milan, Ill. to the east. He put 151,000 miles on
the salsa, stirring and then ladling it into jars --- all by hand --- in his truck in two years.
order to finish the job before the restaurant kitchen workers arrived.
The products are found in Hy-Vees, Wal-Marts, Dahl’s, and numerous
For years, the jarring happened right out of the old restaurant on mom and pop shops, such as Jack and Jill’s in West Branch, co-ops
Gilbert Court in Iowa City. As they began distributing to local grocery such as New Pioneer Co-op in Iowa City and Coralville, and health
stores, such as Hy-Vee and smaller mom and pop shops, the demand food stores, such as Campbell’s in Des Moines.
grew, and soon four cases of salsa by hand was no longer sufficient.
“The stores say everyone loves it,” Sueppel-Lansdon said. “It’s the fla-
Over the years, they accumulated equipment to simplify and speed up voring; it’s not too spicy and not too hot.”
the process.
Despite the volume, they chop off the stems of each jalapeño by hand.
By 2009, the children had grown and nights and weekends became a “It’s all natural,” she said. “There isn’t a company around that cuts the
chore, so they closed the restaurant, which they had opened in 1984, stems of the peppers.” Many people are surprised to learn vinegar is
and decided to focus full time on manufacturing. not used either, she said.
“We were a very successful restaurant but we knew it was time to open All agree that they could get bigger, but they want to keep the hands-
a new door,” daughter Laura Sueppel-Lansdon said. on approach both in making the products and in how it is distributed.
Still working as a family, the Sueppels work out of a new warehouse Meanwhile, mom Mercy, misses feeding people in her restaurant but
space on the outskirts of Iowa City. enjoys knowing people are still enjoying her family recipes, and she
still tests the products to make sure they taste the way she remembers
The shop is outfitted with a number of heavy-duty tools: an industrial them.
kettle that can simmer several dozen gallons of salsa at a time, a push-
pedal faucet for filling jars, plenty of space for prepping the ingredi- “If it ain’t good enough for me, it ain’t good enough for them,” she
ents, multiple stations for other jobs. proclaimed.
The manufacturing is not just about salsa either. Once the restaurant Mercy’s green Chili Salsa
closed they added more products. Sold under the brand La Casa, the 8 fresh jalapeños and 1 ha- 1/2 cup fine diced red onion-
Sueppels jar the salsa, “Salsa Caliente,” a white cheese sauce, a yellow banero (either fine chopped or Juice of 1 lemon and 1 lime.
cheese sauce, enchilada sauce and refried beans. Other products in- blended in a food proces- Salt to taste.
clude tortilla chips, (which are sliced, fried, dried and packaged at the sor)1/3 bunch chopped Optional cubed avocado.
warehouse) a Mexican dip, and three kinds of seasoning – taco, red cilantro.
and fajita. Simply combine all ingredients and refrigerate.

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS

Eating with Style
Story and Photo By roB Cline
If I’d had my druthers, I’m not sure the refrigera- Recently, he was pleased to be able to replace
tor is the space I would have most liked to inves- something he thought he might have to do
tigate at the Cedar Rapids home of Melonie and without. His brother had brought him a ha-
Greg Stoll. My first choice might have been banero sauce from Mexico, and he was not
wherever Greg, owner of Skippy’s Custom Tile, happy when he finished up his supply.
keeps his hats.
“It was really hot with a real nice flavor.”
See, Greg Stoll is a man who can wear a hat.
We’re not talking about baseball caps or floppy He was thrilled to find the same sauce—El Yu-
fishing hats, but rather the sort of lids that would cateco—in La Salsita, a local Mexican grocery
have done Sinatra’s haberdasher proud. It’s a sar- store.
torial feat made all the more impressive by the
complete impossibility of imagining Greg in one After all that hot sauce…
of Ol’ Blue Eyes’ impeccable suits. Greg is a man
who makes contrasts work. There are a variety of things to drink in the
fridge, and an impressive array of containers
I’ve known Melonie for years and years, having from which to drink in the freezer.
been friends with her older sister since high
school, and I’m pleased now to count both sis- Though they were out of both at the time of
ters among my friends. Melonie is a wizard with my visit, Melonie says the family is a fan of al-
all variety of fabric and her personal style offers a mond milk and vanilla soy milk. There were a
neo-hippie vibe in contrast with Greg’s modified couple of Minute Maid products—pink
hipster style. lemonade and berry punch—thanks to a recent
sale at Hy-Vee. I also spotted a two liter bottle of
Despite the couple’s height differential—Greg RC Cola. “I believe RC is the best cola to go
seems to have been allotted an extra portion of with rum,” Greg explains.
inches while Melonie may have been deprived
of her fair share—each seems a perfect fit for the The Stolls also enjoy a variety of beers (no light
other. beer, please). In the fridge at the time of my visit
were bottles of Fat Tire Amber Ale and Smithwick’s Irish Ale.
So would I find harmonious contrasts on display in their Frigidaire? And would I
discover some exotic foodstuff that might be linked to Greg’s success with hats? And inside the freezer? “That’s our frosty mug shelf,” Greg says as we survey the
varied landscape of drinking glasses.
Well, not really. But there was quite a bit of fruit.
Not the usual leftovers
From fresh fruit to homemade jam
In keeping with the theme of spiciness, Melonie explains that there are usually
“We are a fruit family,” says Greg, and the contents of the refrigerator back him Mexican leftovers from homemade meals in the refrigerator. “That’s the one
up. There are strawberries and grapes (both green and red) and apples and water- thing everyone can agree on,” says Greg.
melon. While we chat, the couple’s adorable young daughters, Irish and Lily, will
share some grapes and Lily will return for an organic banana. Whether as a On the afternoon of my visit, however, there were instead leftovers from the Gyro
dessert or as a snack, fruit is the girls’ favorite choice. Hut, a local establishment not far from the Stoll’s home.
Fruit also appears in the form of homemade jams in the Stoll fridge. Greg’s mom The restaurant serves up plenty of food at an affordable price. That day’s lunch
grows an array of fruit—raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, and grapes—and had cost just a smidgen over $20 and there were still plenty of leftovers. “The
makes the jams. gyros, you can’t even close them, there’s so much meat,”
“She makes the best currant. I don’t know what currant is—but it’s the best,” says There was also a baggy of leftover ribs from a family barbeque held the evening
Melonie. before. Greg did a bit of wheedling to acquire them, telling his host, “It must be
nice to have a great lunch to take to work on Monday.”
Speaking of growing things
Even without the ribs, however, it was clear that the Stoll family fridge can most
The Stolls have a garden of their own in their backyard, and they often supple- always offer up a tasty meal.
ment what they grow with fresh produce from the Farmers’ Market. They grow
cucumbers and zucchini (though it seems only one or the other thrives each A couple of the Stoll’s Faves...
year), tomatoes, and peppers. The last are something of a frustration. “I’m going
to have, like, two hot peppers this year,” says Greg. La Salsita Gyro Hut
700 1st Ave NW, Cedar Rapids 1455 Mount Vernon Rd SE
And Greg likes things hot, hot, hot. A number of little bottles are on display in
319.3659733 Cedar Rapids
319.364.1959
the Stoll refrigerator. “We like hot sauce, in case you couldn’t tell,” says Greg.
“That’s one of my favorite things in the world.”

Secretary of Agriculture Candi-

date Francis icke and his
wife Susan, with one of their
herd of Jersey cows. is par-
ticular mama cow was featured
on the cover of Edible Iowa
River Valley issue #7 with her
then 4-hour-old calf.
Photo by Lisa Phillips An Open letter to

the People of Iowa
From Secretary of Agriculture Candidate
Francis Thicke
I am running for Iowa Secretary of Agriculture because Iowa agricul-
ture is facing major challenges that we are currently not prepared to Iowa agriculture will need to change if it is to thrive in these changing
meet. We also have some great opportunities on the horizon that we times. The good news is that there are exciting solutions for all these
could take advantage of to help us meet those challenges. challenges. We can:
Iowa has a proud tradition as a leader in agriculture. The Iowa prairies Make Iowa’s landscape more resilient to flooding and keep Iowa’s
left us with some of the richest, deepest soils in the world. We have a rich soils and fertilizer nutrients from washing into our rivers
good climate for crop production. And we have a strong tradition of by increasing landscape diversity with more perennial and
hard-working people. All of these things have made Iowa an agricul- cover crops.
tural powerhouse, a shining jewel among agricultural states.
Grow a lot more of the $8 billion worth of food we eat in Iowa
But now we are in a time of great change: each year. Locally-grown food can be fresher, safer and
healthier, and will provide jobs in rural Iowa.
Climate scientists tell us that our climate is changing, and we should
expect a growing frequency of extreme weather events. Our dominant Re-establish local control over CAFOs, and regulate them to pro-
cropping systems in Iowa are not resilient enough to withstand such tect our air and water quality, and the health, quality of life,
weather extremes. and property values of Iowans.
Our agriculture is highly dependent on cheap fossil fuels in a world of Install farmer-owned, mid-sized wind turbines on farms across
escalating fossil-fuel prices. Without cheap oil, our current agriculture Iowa, to power farms, and help to power the rest of Iowa
and food system becomes imperiled and may fail us. Yet, we are oblivi- with distributed electrical power. With feed-in tariff policies,
ous to how we are going to power Iowa agriculture in the future. We we can make them an affordable and attractive option for
are making ethanol for cars driving on highways, but are not securing Iowa farmers.
the energy future of agriculture.
Make Iowa farms more energy self-sufficient and put more biofuel
Our environment has been compromised by farming practices of the profits in farmers’ pockets by refocusing Iowa’s biofuel invest-
past. Since we began cropping Iowa’s soils, half of our original topsoil ment on new technologies allowing farmers to produce biofu-
has been lost or moved by erosion. And, half of our soil organic matter els on the farm to power agriculture, using sustainable
has been lost. cropping systems.
We have water quality problems in Iowa that agriculture must take End predatory practices of corporate monopolies that are stealing
some responsibility for. the profits of Iowa’s family farmers. We need Teddy Roo-
sevelt-style trust busting to restore competition to agricultural
Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs) are a source of markets.
great divisiveness in rural Iowa, compromising our air and water qual-
ity, our property values, our quality of life, and even the health of Iowa To meet the challenges of the 21st Century will require new vision and
citizens. leadership. Iowa agriculture could lead Iowa and the nation to a new
economy based on sustainable, renewable energy; environmentally
Agribusiness corporations are monopolizing ag markets and stealing sound farming systems; and thriving rural communities.
profits from Iowa farmers. Economists tell us that when four or fewer
corporations control 40 percent or more of a market, that market be- I believe that a major role of the Iowa Secretary of Agriculture should
gins to function like a monopoly. We far exceed 40 percent concentra- be to provide vision and leadership for Iowa agriculture. That is what I
tion in most of our agricultural markets. Four corporations control 84 intend to do if elected. I would appreciate your support.
percent of the beef processing market. Four corporations control 66
percent of the pork processing market. One corporation controls 40 Editor’s Note: Election Day is November 2nd. When you vote,
percent of the dairy processing market. please remember the importance of the local foods and farms you
love.

The
Purple
Time
Enjoying Wild Berries
and Fruits of Iowa
by Teresa Marrone
Instructions and all recipes adapted from Cooking with

Wild Berries & Fruits of Illinois, Iowa and Missouri. ©
Teresa Marrone; used with permission. Photos ©
Teresa Marrone; used with permission.
Most wild grapes in our area are too tart to eat raw; they also contain a substance
that makes the mouth tingle and burn if more than a few are eaten. They’re typi-
Every season has its own color palette, cally juiced for use in making jelly, desserts and beverages; they also make excel-
and fall’s never fails to impress. The trees turn glo- lent wine, especially when combined with chokecherries. Wild grapes are
rious shades of flame-red or orange, fields take on a golden common in thickets, along park edges, and on streambanks.
glow, and my fingers are always … purple?!
Wild cherries in our area include pin cherries (Prunus pensylvanica), black cherries
You see, I love to forage wild foods, and late summer through fall offers an abun- (P. serotina) and chokecherries (P. virginiana). Unlike commercially available cher-
dance of wild berries and fruits that are richly colored, with enough staining ries, these are all small fruits, 3/8 inch across or less—and much of that is a large,
power to keep my fingers various shades of purplish-red until early November. inedible pit. They’re typically juiced or puréed before use; attempting to remove
Blackberries, wild grapes, various wild cherries and elderberries are some of my fa- the pits to use the fruits in, say, a pie would be a thankless task, yielding little but a
vorite wild fruits, and most are fairly common in our area. pile of wet skins and bits of pulp. Pin cherries do well in rocky areas, and are one
of the first plants to appear after a forest fire. Black cherries grow in open woods
Blackberries (Rubus allegheniensis and others) are the only fruits on this list that and along forest borders. Chokecherries are often found on field edges in agricul-
have a common domestic counterpart, although wild blackberries are much tural areas.
smaller—and usually far more delicious—than their tame cousins. If you’re sub-
stituting wild blackberries for domestic ones in a recipe, remember that because Elderberries (Sambucus canadensis) have a musty flavor and may cause nausea
they’re so much smaller, the wild berries pack more tightly into a measuring cup, when sampled raw, but they are delicious when cooked or juiced. The seeds are
so you may end up with more fruit by weight than the recipe intended. Other small and not objectionable as far as texture, although they may cause digestive
than that, feel free to use your wild harvest in any recipe calling for store-bought problems for some folks; others can eat elderberry pie with impunity, and typi-
blackberries. Look for wild blackberries along forest edges, in pastures and in cally enjoy every minute of it. Elderberry juice is easy to make, and whole elder-
open woods; they often grow alongside walking paths in urban park areas. berries can also be dried or frozen for later use. Look for elderberries in moist areas
such as riverbanks, slough edges, ditches and abandoned fields.
But what about wild grapes, you may be wondering—aren’t those similar to the
ones sold at the store? Well, not really. Wild grapes (Vitis riparia and others) have Caution: Always be absolutely certain of the identity of any wild food you har-
about as much in common with regular table grapes as snow peapods do with vest before eating it. Consult a reliable field guide for identification, or seek advice
shell peas: they may look similar, but they are used in completely different ways. of a knowledgeable forager.

Blackberry Juice or Puree: Measure fruit and place in nonaluminum pot. For Combine juice and sugar in Pyrex or glass mixing bowl, stirring until sugar is dis-
juice, add 1 cup water per quart of fruit; for purée, add 1/2 cup per quart. Gently solved. Let stand for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. In small saucepan, stir to-
crush fruit with potato masher. Heat to boiling, reduce heat, cover and simmer gether pectin and water. Heat to a rolling boil, stirring constantly; cook at a
for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. For juice, strain through strainer lined with rolling boil for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Pour into bowl with grape juice. Stir
three layers of damp cheesecloth; if you’re making jelly, don’t squeeze the fruit or constantly with wooden spoon until clear and no longer grainy, about 3 minutes.
the jelly will be cloudy. For seedless purée, process cooked fruit through a food Pour into sterilized jelly jars, leaving 1/2 inch headspace; cover with new, clean
mill, then discard seeds; if you don’t mind the seeds, the purée is ready after cook- lids. Let stand at room temperature for 24 hours; the jelly should be set. If not set,
ing. refrigerate for several days before using or freezing; it may take up to a week to set
completely. The jelly keeps for about 3 weeks in the refrigerator, or may be
Wild Grape Juice: In large container, crush washed grapes gently with a potato frozen for up to a year.
masher, being careful not to break the bitter seeds. Transfer to strainer lined with
three layers of damp cheesecloth; gather cloth around fruit and squeeze to extract Wild Cherry Zabaglione (6 to 8 servings): A light and fluffy version of the Ital-
as much juice as possible. Place the bundle back into the strainer, open it and ian classic, with a subtle pink color.
pour about 1/2 cup water into the fruit, then gather and squeeze again. Place the
bundle back into the strainer and let it drip for 30 minutes. (Wear rubber gloves, 1 cup whipping cream
or rinse your hands immediately after squeezing the grapes; acid in the grape juice 2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup sugar, divided
will cause a strong burning sensation on the skin an hour or so later if it’s not 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
washed off immediately.) After the bundle has dripped as much as it will, pour 5 egg yolks
liquid into a clean jar and refrigerate for 24 hours; a grayish sediment will settle to 1/3 cup wild cherry juice
the bottom. Pour off the clear juice into another container, leaving the sediment
behind and then discarding it; if you don’t do this, your jelly or other product In large mixing bowl, beat cream, 2 tablespoons sugar and the vanilla until stiff;
will have tartrate crystals in it. The separated juice is now ready to make jelly, refrigerate until needed. Combine yolks and remaining 1/2 cup sugar in top half
dessert or beverages; it is very rich, and most folks will want to dilute it a bit (and of double boiler. Beat with electric mixer until fluffy and light-colored. Add
maybe sweeten it also) before drinking it on its own, or mix it with apple or other cherry juice; beat until well combined. Place over simmering water in bottom
fruit juice. half of double boiler. Cook, beating constantly, until mixture is thick and holds
soft peaks, 8 to 10 minutes. Place top half of double boiler on heat-proof surface;
Wild Cherry Juice or Puree: Measure stemmed fruit and place in nonalu- continue beating for 3 or 4 minutes. Let stand until completely cool, about 10
minum pot. For juice, add 2 cups water per quart of fruit; for purée, add 1 cup minutes. Add to bowl with whipped cream; fold together gently with rubber
per quart. Heat to boiling, reduce heat, cover and simmer for 30 minutes, crush- spatula. Refrigerate for 30 minutes, or as long as 2 hours. Serve with shortbread
ing gently with a potato masher near the end of cooking (don’t break the pits; cookies, or topped with fresh raspberries. (Note: Leftovers can be frozen for at
they contain a harmful compound that is released when they’re broken). For least 8 hours; the mixture becomes an airy, delicious ice cream.)
juice, strain as directed for blackberry juice, above. For purée, process the cooked
mixture through a food mill, discarding the pits and skins.
Elderberry Liqueur (1 quart): Serve straight up or on the rocks as an after-din-
Elderberry Juice: Measure stemmed fruit and place in nonaluminum pot. Add ner drink.
1 cup water per quart of fruit. Heat to boiling, reduce heat, cover and simmer for
5 minutes. Crush gently with a potato masher, then simmer for about 5 minutes 2 cups stemmed fresh (or previously frozen) elderberries
longer. Strain as directed for blackberry juice, above. 2 cups water
3/4 cup sugar
Blackberry Coulis (about 1 cup): Spoon a puddle of this rich sauce onto indi- 2 cups vodka
vidual dessert plates, then top with cheesecake or a poached pear. It’s also deli- 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
cious served atop rich ice cream. 1 teaspoon anise seeds
1 cup strained, seedless blackberry purée Chop elderberries coarsely in food processor or blender. Combine water and
1/4 to 1/2 cup sugar sugar in nonaluminum saucepan and heat to boiling, stirring constantly to dis-
1/8 teaspoon grated lemon zest solve sugar. Add chopped elderberries; reduce heat to low and cook for 5 min-
utes, stirring occasionally. Set aside until cool. Use a funnel to pour mixture into a
In small, heavy nonaluminum saucepan, combine purée, 1/4 cup sugar and the sterilized glass juice jar that holds at least 40 ounces. Add vodka, lemon juice and
lemon zest. Heat over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until boiling. anise seeds. Seal tightly and place in cool, dark cupboard for 2 to 3 weeks, shak-
Cook, stirring constantly, until thickened to sauce-like consistency. Taste and ing every day or two. When steeping period is done, strain through doubled
add additional sugar if needed, cooking for a few more minutes to dissolve sugar. cheesecloth into a clean bottle, discarding mixture in cheesecloth. Refrigerate
Cool before using. strained liquid for 8 hours or longer to settle, then pour clear liquid through
paper coffee filter into another clean container, holding back any sediment. For
No-Cook Grape Jelly (3 half-pints): This easy jelly is sparkling-clear and deep best quality, store finished liqueur in refrigerator.
purple, with a super-fresh taste.
Teresa Marrone’s most recent books are Wild Berries & Fruits Field Guide of Illi-
1-1/2 cups wild grape juice, settled and poured off as described above nois, Iowa and Missouri (a 336-page photographic field guide) and Cooking with
2-1/2 cups sugar Wild Berries & Fruits of Illinois, Iowa and Missouri. Both were published by Ad-
Half of a 1.75-ounce box powdered pectin (measure carefully or weigh in grams venture Publications in April 2010; available at bookstores, outdoors-related
to ensure accurate division) stores, other retail locations, and www.NorthernTrailPress.com. Teresa is also the
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon water author of Abundantly Wild: Collecting and Cooking Wild Edibles in the Upper
Midwest.

OUTSTANDING IN THEIR FIELDS

Practical Farmers of Iowa gives producers new ways to network
BY RENEE BRINCKS
Photo by Luke Gran - PFI - Used with permission

After managing a few small vegetable farms in Wisconsin and Mon- That early curiosity about sustainable practices – from natural pest
tana, 34-year-old Sara Hanson recently returned to Iowa. She pur- control and crop rotation to cover crops and alternative fertilizers –
chased ten acres near Wesley that once belonged to her great came at a time when the farm crisis threatened the livelihood of many
grandparents, and she’s spent nearly two years working the land, repair- rural Iowa families. So, since its start, PFI has promoted techniques
ing buildings and saving money to start her own vegetable operation. that offer environmental as well as economic benefits.
In a way, it’s the fulfillment of a lifelong dream. “We focus on profitable, ecologically-sound, community-enhancing
approaches to agriculture,” Gran says, citing the nonprofit’s mission.
“I come from a farm family,” she says, explaining that her parents still More than two decades after it was launched, PFI is increasing its
grow corn and soybeans nearby. “Ever since I was a little girl, helping membership by 14 percent a year and some 75 percent of its 2,400
my dad on the farm was really fun for me. I’d always considered mov- members are farmers. Both beginning and established producers partic-
ing back to Iowa and farming myself.” ipate in the organization, and they work plots ranging from a few acres
to 1,500 acres or more
Eventually, Hanson hopes to start a community supported agriculture
venture and market her crops to local schools and restaurants. As she While some PFI farmers earn organic certification, many others simply
builds her business, she’s receiving support from Practical Farmers of concentrate on conservation and sustainability.
Iowa (PFI). The Ames-based nonprofit offers programs and resources
for producers at all stages of their careers, and works to educate the “Our core membership is not necessarily organic farmers. They’re rais-
public about agriculture and the environment. ing corn, beans, beef and hay,” says Gran. “But, they are the innova-
tors. They’re the early adopters who are planting cover crops like
“Over the years, even when I’ve been living out of state, I’ve been a PFI radish, for example, so there’s not so much water or wind erosion.
member. It kept me connected to what was happening here in Iowa.
The organization is really good at connecting you with other farmers,” To inform members about agricultural techniques, PFI hosts 30 on-
Hanson says. farm field days each year. Offerings include “Improving a Perennial
Pasture,” “On-Farm Poultry Processing,” “Cattle Grazing and Goat
This year marks the 25th anniversary of PFI, which was started by Browsing to Increase Biodiversity” and “Biodiesel: Basics and Beyond.”
farmers interested in sharing information and expertise. According to The events provide both educational and networking opportunities for
program coordinator Luke Gran, the organization traces back to a farmers, who enjoy a unique chance to meet others with first-hand ex-
1985 field day that founding member Dick Thompson put together on perience.
his Boone farm. The goal was to show some growers how he was incor-
porating alternative agricultural practices. When the day arrived, sev- Gran tells the story of a cover crop session led by member and veg-
eral hundred people showed up. etable farmer Gary Guthrie, where field crop farmers learned how the
practice can reduce input costs and increase environmental quality.
“People said, ‘We want to learn from farmers,’ and it grew into a
stronger movement,” says Gran. “Farmers here have real knowledge to “A small one- or two-acre vegetable farmer can help teach 1,500-acre
share.” farmers about cover crops, and the same thing works the other way. A

small farmer can learn a lot about mechanization for a vegetable opera- “It’s helping us ask the question, ‘What is the nature of farming in
tion from someone using mechanization for row crops,” says Gran. Iowa?’ It’s helping us really re-imagine what rural Iowa could be,” he
says.
When the growing season wraps up, PFI continues educating produc-
ers through free online “farminars” that address a variety of topics re- Gran points to a recent survey of the organization’s beginner members,
lated to growing crops, raising animals and financing and promoting a which includes those who have farmed for five years or less. They re-
business. Interested individuals can log on and participate as each 90- ported an interest in raising vegetables, fruits, organic grains, nut crops,
minute seminar is being produced, or they can download the sessions bees, poultry, beef and pork, among others – a diverse mix that opens
and watch when as time permits. Outside of organized events, PFI up new opportunities for the state, according to Gran.
members also share advice and initiate discussions via the organiza-
tion’s email distribution lists. “We [PFI] started 25 years ago really focused on field croppers. Just
over the last 10 years, we’ve grown to include a much wider offering of
“A lot of it is just Tyler Franzenburg joined PFI five enterprises,” he says.
getting out and years ago. The 26-year-old, who
grows organic corn and soybeans on At the same time, the organization has welcomed a growing number of
seeing how other 80 rented acres near Keystone, has non-farm members. Some were raised in a rural setting but no longer
people are doing taken part in field days and farmi-
nars where he learned about grow-
live there; others are interested in land stewardship or local food.
things,” he says. ing organic flax and raising grass-fed “These are people that want to know their local farmer,” says Gran,
“You can learn a beef. He networks with established
PFI farmers and values the lessons
“and they just want to support, in a genuine way, sustainable agricul-
ture in Iowa.”
lot more from get- that come from those conversations.
ting out in the “A lot of it is just getting out and
By bringing farmers together, he adds, PFI strengthens the state’s food
system and its economy.
field and seeing seeing how other people are doing
something than by things,” he says. “You can learn a
lot more from getting out in the
“If we want healthy food, if we want local food produced by Iowans,
we need to find a way to grow it profitably. Who better to help farmers
reading about it in field and seeing something than by grow profitably than other farmers who have done it before?”
the paper or in a reading about it in the paper or in a
research article.” To learn more about Practical Farmers of Iowa, or to
research article.” donate to the new Savings Incentive Program, visit
As the farm industry changes, mak- www.PracticalFarmers.org or call 515.232.5661.
ing those connections becomes increasingly important.
Photo by Luke Gran - PFI - Used with permission
“Iowa agriculture used to be about relationships and neighbors and

community. It still is in many ways, but we’ve really outsourced a lot
of the neighborly help and advice to corporations,” says Gran. “Instead
of having a neighbor down the road to ask a couple of questions to,
farmers live more isolated lives or find that the farmers around them
are not like them.... These farmers need to be able to talk and ask
questions. A lot of times they’re not physically neighbors, although
they are spiritually or emotionally neighborly.”
Just as facilitating conversations between producers is central to PFI’s

work, so is backing beginning farmers. The 2008 Iowa Farm and Rural
Life Poll, a cooperative project out of Iowa State University Extension,
reports that 42 percent of Iowa farmers plan to retire in five years. Pur-
chasing land and equipment can be challenging for the producers who
will take their place. To help new farmers get started, PFI is finalizing
its new Savings Incentive Program (SIP). Participants will be encour-
aged to save $100 a month over a two-year period. Those who meet
program requirements will then receive a dollar-for-dollar match; that
means they’ll have $4,800 to put toward the purchase of land, live-
stock, machinery or other assets that will help get their business off the
ground.
As they save, SIP participants will be matched with a mentor, and

they’ll receive assistance with creating a business plan. PFI staff and
business consultants will conduct quarterly status checks and offer ad-
vice. Beginning farmers will also be required to attend at least four PFI
events per year, where they’ll strengthen their skills and learn from
other growers and producers.
PFI is working to raise $250,000 for the SIP project and plans to put
90 new farmers through the program by 2016. Getting beginners on
the land and on their way to success is a “huge challenge,” Gran says,
but an exciting one.

Sauces
full of
Secrets
Story and Photos

by Tim Rask
It’s the thought that probably lurks in the back of every home chef’s mind. You’ve Charlie’s” in honor of his two sons. When going over prototypes for the label,
created a fantastic recipe that all of your friends and family love. Wouldn’t it be their graphic designer suggested adding “Big Sauce” to emphasize the bold taste
great to take that next step and produce your own secret recipe commercially? of the sauces. Jason and Mike liked the design, and “Jack & Charlie’s Big Sauce”
was christened.
This year, two small companies have emerged to bring their home creations to
the marketplace. The Cedar Valley Sauce Company of Evansdale has added a se- To formulate the recipe for the sauces, Jason relied on his years of trial and error
ries of big-tasting grilling sauces to the Iowa scene, while Galassi Sauce Company experience. “It’s just a matter of trying new things—once you hit the right blend,
of Coralville has hit the market with their traditional Italian tomato sauce. you just know. I was just playing around one day when I finally hit on the right
mix and thought, ‘this is it!”
Cedar Valley Sauce Company
Currently, the pair turn out four varieties of sauce. First on their roster is the
Casey’s Pub and Eatery in Evansdale looks like a typical sports bar from the out- “Roasted Garlic #1,” a medium-hot sauce, traditionally used for chicken wings,
side. Inside, its kitchen is the headquarters of the Cedar Valley Sauce Company, but intended as an all-purpose sauce. The “Sweet Honey BBQ Sauce #2” em-
the producers of Jack & Charlie’s Big Sauce. ploys honey to cut the heat for a more traditional barbeque sauce, while “Spicy
Hot #3” kicks the heat up a notch with a dose of garlic to satisfy the grilling afi-
The company was conceived three years ago by Jason Dugan. Jason is a veteran cionado who likes a bolder flavor. “In all our sauces, we stress fresh ingredients,”
of the restaurant business, having previously owned Heart Attack Jack’s in Cedar says Jason. “For example, we use real honey, not artificial sweeteners ,and I think
Falls eight years ago. During his stint there, Jason developed a house grilling that makes a big difference in the taste.”
sauce, which he continued to make at home after he left the restaurant business.
“I made batches for friends and gift baskets for holidays and special occasions.” On a recent visit to Casey’s, Mike and Jason were preparing a batch of the fourth
The overwhelming positive feedback from friends induced Jason to explore the variety, the extra spicy “Holy #%\*@! Sauce #4,” which packs a mighty wallop
idea of producing his secret recipe on a larger scale. without completely disabling the taste buds. “It’s not quite to the level of a ha-
banero pepper, “I’m going for more of a back-of-the-mouth, or creeping heat,
A mutual friend knew that Mike Kroeger had some extra kitchen space at Casey’s something that will stay with you,” explains Jason. “It’s not quite as hot as a ha-
Pub and introduced Jason to Mike. The two hit it off and decided to become banero-based sauce, which would check in about 50000 Scoville units higher.”
partners instead. Today, a corner of the kitchen at Casey’s is now dedicated to Jokes Mike, “It only makes your lips burn for half-an-hour or so.”
producing hot sauce.
The production operation is delightfully low tech. The sauce typically cooks in
The kitchen gained USDA and state approval in February of 2010, and produc- 15 to 20 gallon batches, although during my visit, the pair were whipping up a
tion began shortly thereafter. Jason had already decided to use the name, “Jack & smaller 5-gallon batch of the “Holy #$#$” sauce. “We start with a roux, and add

the ingredients such as tomato sauce, molasses, cayenne, and honey and go from ternet sales as well. “The web site has generated a lot of hits, but not a lot of sales
there. We simmer the batch until it heats to 190 degrees Fahrenheit, and after yet,” stated Kroeger. “It’s encouraging, though, that people have seen us at farm-
that it’s ready to put into jars.” ers markets, and have come back to check us out online. We hope to stress the
internet sales more as the market season dies down.”
There is no mechanized canning line for this crew. Mike and Jason fill each jar by
hand using a pitcher, then give each jar a date-stamped sticker and label before The business is off to an encouraging start, but Dugan plans on keeping things in
loading it into a box for distribution. “Actually, we are automated—we can do perspective. “Sure we’d like to expand, but that’s something that’s maybe three
this in our sleep,” noted Mike as he ladled a 16-oz portion into a jar. years down the road. I’d hate to get big too quickly and compromise the quality
of the product. I really like to have that control, so we’d have to look very closely
All of the sauces are intended to be used as an all-purpose accompaniment to at any expansion to make sure it’s the right fit for us.”
grilled meats. Dugan says his favorite is to brush the sauce over grilled chicken
drumsticks, while Kroeger serves it on the wings at Casey’s. “We encourage our Galassi Foods
patrons to try it on anything,” says Kroeger. “A lot of people are used to putting
on mayo and ketchup on everything, but our customers have been willing give Unlike Dugan and Kroeger, siblings Lisa Galassi and Craig Galassi have no prior
the sauces a try and found they like that extra flavor.” experience in the food business. But as with Jack & Charlie’s Big Sauce, their
Coralville-based Galassi Foods Pasta Sauce originated with a home recipe.
Although the sauce is sold at Casey’s, Dugan and Kroeger don’t rely on the pub
for sales. Jason hits the road at least four days per week, visiting retailers and area “Our grandmother was second-generation Italian,” says Craig Galassi, “and
farmers markets. “We want to gain a foothold in the major markets in Iowa, and when we younger she passed the recipe down to us.” Neither Craig nor Lisa had
farmers markets are a great way to do that,” says Dugan. “Farmers markets give much interest in cooking when they were younger, but over the years they came
us one-on-one access to customers and we can offer samples, answer any ques- to appreciate the traditional recipe. “I started watching the Food Network,” says
tions or make suggestions for using the sauce. At this point, word of mouth is our Lisa, “and they really sparked my interest in cooking.”
main advertising campaign, so spreading the word at the markets this summer,
we hope to make it easier to get onto supermarket shelves when the market sea- For the past fifteen years, the pair has hosted an occasional gathering of friends
son quiets down in the fall.” and family they dubbed “Soul Food Sunday,” which provided a forum to show-
case their-new-found culinary talents. The old-world family pasta recipe often
Dugan adds, “I like that we can stress that our sauce is made in Iowa, using fresh found its way into those Sunday meals, featured in crowd-pleasing recipes for
ingredients. We know we’re not going to be able to compete on price with a bot- baked ziti and lasagna.
tle of sauce that costs 99 cents at the supermarket so we have to offer a higher-
quality product.” “Everyone thought we should find a way to sell the sauce commercially,” says
Craig, so the pair pondered ways they could get their sauce to market. Initially,
So far, the farmers market strategy has worked well. “We don’t have a lot of built- the two thought it would be fun to open a restaurant together, but thought the
up inventory,” remarks Kroeger. Cedar Valley Sauce has sent its product to sev- daily grind of running their own place would be too stressful for a mother of a
eral markets in Iowa, including Cedar Rapids, Davenport, Iowa City, Dubuque one-year-old like Lisa. After some more research, the Galassis decided that selling
and even smaller communities like Harpers Ferry and Tripoli. They’ve also used the sauce by the jar would be a viable option.
the markets in Galena, Illinois and Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin to take a few ten-
tative steps across the Mississippi. The Galassis arranged with Triple K Manufacturing of Shenandoah to produce
the sauce on a large scale. “The home recipe is made in 8-quart batches,” says
Staffing the farmers markets booths is a family operation. On one summer week- Craig, “so it took some trial and error to get the proportions right, especially the
end, Cedar Valley had Jason visited Davenport, while his wife Pam (with five- pepper, but we kept plugging away until we got what we wanted.”
year-old Jack and eight-year-old Charlie) tended their booth in Iowa City.
Dugan and Kroeger have even added a marketing intern, Mike Crow, who can Adds Lisa, “I think Triple K might have gotten a bit frustrated with us at times,
usually be found hawking the sauce in the Dubuque area. but they’re a family-owned business, too, so they recognized the importance of
maintaining the quality of the sauce. A lot of sauces add water to increase their
Dugan and Kroeger hope to translate the buzz from farmers markets to more volume, and we didn’t want to do that. And we refused to add any extra sweeten-
conventional venues in the fall. Jack & Charlie’s Big Sauce is available at Water- ers—all of the sugar in the sauce comes the tomatoes.”
loo/Cedar Falls area Hy Vee stores, and the company has begun to dabble in in-

After each production run, the Galassis receive 220 cases, each containing 12
25-oz jars of pasta sauce, each with a simple white label inscribed with the
Galassi Foods logo and a bright red door. “In Italian culture, the red door is a
symbol of welcome, so I thought that was a natural for the logo,” says Lisa.
To promote their sauce, Lisa and Craig have embraced the Cedar Rapids and
North Liberty Farmers Markets. “Cedar Rapids is phenomenal,” says Lisa, “we
usually sell 25 to 27 cases at each visit.” The two have had a blast interacting with
customers, exchanging recipes, and convincing skeptics that they really are
brother and sister and not just pretending to be as a marketing gimmick.
Selling at a Saturday-morning farmers market did pose one interesting challenge, STOCKING THE PANTRY
however. “We found that some people weren’t in the mood to taste pasta sauce By Elizabeth Brown
at 7:30 in the morning,” says Craig. To help break that reluctance, Craig devised As the close of the regular farmers market season draws near, local vendors show-
a recipe for Italian scrambled eggs, which has proven to be a crowd favorite. case an increased variety of jams and jellies, canned tomatoes and pickled onions,
and award-winning salsas and sauces. With these purchases, locally minded
“It highlights the versatility of the sauce, says Craig, “Sure, putting it on pasta is Iowans are able to enjoy the preserved bounty of Iowa year-round. But, what
most popular, but it works well with chicken, fish, vegetables, and yes, even for about preserving the bounty of interest in fresh, local foods?
breakfast.” Buy Fresh, Buy Local Iowa was founded in collaboration with Practical Farmers
of Iowa in 2003. It was one of ten original state branches with the goal to pro-
The success at the farmers markets also has provided entry to supermarkets in mote and strengthen independent farmers and businesses, to raise awareness of
the Iowa City and Cedar Rapids areas as well. “The local Hy Vee and Fareway Iowa’s “local treasures,” and to stimulate the social and economic vitality of Iowa.
stores have been fantastic,” reports Lisa. “Both really like to promote Iowa-made
products and have been really supported us by letting us do tastings in the According to Mallory Smith, the coordinator for Buy Fresh, Buy Local (BFBL)
stores.” Iowa, strong initial grant funding often leads to a quick but weak development
for many grassroots initiatives, but that has not been the case for BFBL Iowa.
The Galassis are enjoying their initial success, but by no means are they slowing Welcoming a 12th chapter to Iowa this year, Smith, a community developer by
trade, is most proud of the organization’s “slow steady, sustainable growth.”
down. In late July, they debuted a wet spice rub at the Cedar Rapids Farmers
Market. “You can use it as a marinade,” says Craig, “ but I like brushing it onto While the campaign is “more about marketing than it is about developing local
steaks just before putting them on the grill.” The pair also plan on unveiling a food producers, it is also about local organizational development.” Each chapter
tomato vinaigrette soon. is made up of local residents and business people much like a regional chamber
of commerce focused on food. Buy Fresh Buy Local chapters bring together peo-
“We want to help make everyone a good cook,” says Lisa, “with our sauce, we’ve ple interested in developing the local food system. eir motivations may in-
already done the work for you.” clude encouraging sustainable agriculture, maintaining Iowa’s food heritage,
sourcing gourmet ingredients, supporting local economies or providing healthier
diets for school children and senior citizens, but they all agree that the solution is
more people buying more local food.
Craig Galassi’s Italian Scrambled Eggs
12 Large eggs
8 ounces sour cream
Kosher salt
Black pepper
8 ounces mozzarella cheese, shredded
8 tablespoons butter
1 cup Galassi Pasta Sauce
Crack the eggs in a large bowl. Add sour cream and salt and pepper to taste.
Whisk the mixture vigorously until the sour cream is thoroughly incorporated
and eggs are well beaten. Add the mozzarella cheese and stir well.
In a large skillet over medium to medium low heat melt the butter. Add the
egg mixture to the skillet. Stir regularly until the eggs just start to set. Add the
Galassi Pasta Sauce and continue to stir until the eggs are setting but still a little
runny. Remove from the skillet, let sit for a couple of minutes and enjoy!
Serves 4-6
The secret to great scrambled eggs is not to over cook them. Eggs are a lot like
meat and continue to cook even after they are off of the heat. When you think
the eggs are done, they are over done. So remove them from the heat while
they are still a little runny and let sit for a couple of minutes. You will be
amazed at how much better your eggs taste.
Cedar Valley Sauce Company Galassi Foods

3521 Lafayette Road, Evansdale 2042 Glen Oaks Drive, Coralville
www.JackAndCharliesBigSauce.com www.GalassiFoods.com or check out
Galassi Foods on Facebook

Field to Family Local Foods Festival Schedule is a Special Supplement to

Edible Iowa River Valley, Issue #17, Harvest 2010 - www.EdibleIowa.com

Field to Family Local Foods Festival Schedule is a Special Supplement to Edib

nt to Edible Iowa River Valley, Issue #17, Harvest 2010 - www.EdibleIowa.com

Field to Family Local Foods Festival Schedule is a Special Supplement to

Edible Iowa River Valley, Issue #17, Harvest 2010 - www.EdibleIowa.com
nt to Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 21

a.com
Notables
In Memorium
Scott Bush of Templeton Rye sends us the sad news of the passing of a legend:
“It is with a heavy heart that I reach out to tell you that we have lost Templeton Rye Master
Distiller Meryl Kerkhoff. Meryl died at Manning Hospital, surrounded by his family. I re-
ally struggle to put into words how much we all admired this great man. He will be missed
dearly.
“Meryl was a child of the Depression, born a mile from our current distillery in Templeton
in 1929 to Alphonse and Frances (Bluml) Kerkhoff. He attended Sacred Heart School in
Templeton and graduated in 1946. Meryl fought in Korea for two years and went on to a
successful career as a farmer and auctioneer. He and his wife Imelda had seven children and
14 grandchildren.
Photo Courtesy of Templeton Rye

“He had a presence that was unmistakable. Meryl was a true gentleman and a man of great
stature, both in size and in character. I will always remember how his huge hands, strength-
ened by a lifetime of farming, would totally engulf those of anyone who would shake them.
He dressed well, yet modestly, and had his signature Templeton Rye cap slightly tilted, or "a
little cocky" as he would say. Master Distiller
“Meryl had a sense of humor and his own language that greatly amused the rest of our Meryl Kerkhoff
team. A nice place was "Uptown" and when things were going well we were "Cadillacing."
He was a caring man who was always excited to see you and would ask, "So, how've things 1929-2010
been going?" Meryl was a patient man and was more likely to listen than to talk. He gave
Keith and me great advice over the years and was always
very thorough about issues that impacted our company.
“Obviously things will continue at Templeton Rye and Keith has been handling the day-to-day duties for sometime. Genetics
are a powerful thing I guess, as I look at what I have written about Meryl, I could very well be describing Keith.
“Please keep Meryl, Imelda, Keith and all of the Kerkhoff family in your thoughts and prayers.” - Scott Bush, Templeton Rye
Photos by Kurt Michael Friese

Aromas Coffee
We found it almost as hard to believe as you will when we tell you, but the very best coffee in America is
being brewed in Charles City, Iowa. Seriously. Enjoy stunning depth of flavor in a brew made from beans
roasted right there, probably that very day. Ours was a long-draw Americano, and to borrow a phrase from
the internet, “OMG.”
ey have plenty of fresh-roasted whole bean coffee too.
Aromas Coffee
105 North Main Street, Charles City, 641.228.4773
Burrowing Owl Breads

And speaking of “OMG,” have you tasted the meringues being peddled at the Iowa
City Farmers Market by Allie Gnade of Burrowing Owl Breads? A single bite conjurs
up a distinctly George Takei-like “Oh MY!”
Full disclosure here, Allie is a some-time writer for this very publication, but our fond-
ness for her is irrelevant when it comes to finding her wares irresistable. Besides the
meringues, she also makes wonderful breads and tarts (both sweet and savory) in her
home-based bakery in Iowa City.
And the only place you can get’em? Saturdays at the Iowa City Farmers Market, now
through the end of the season (October 30th).
Go get some this weekend, you’ll thank us (and Allie) later.
Burrowing Owl Bread is only available at the Saturday Iowa City Farmers Market

edibleBazaar
Artisans Farms Markets e Faithful Pilot
Ladies and Gentlemen Serving
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Made Best in the Midwest Grass Pasture Raised and Fed A Cooperatively-Owned Local and 117 North Cody Road, Le Claire
319.646.2629 Red Deer Venison Natural Food Store 563.289.4156
www.KenAndCheryls.com 3446 Dogwood Avenue, Fertile 14 E. State Street, Algona www.FaithfulPilotCafe.com
641.797.2081 515.395.COOP (2667)
Chocolaterie Stam www.VenisonSteaks.com www.FreshConnectionsCoop.com Proof
230 Main Street, Ames Inspired Mediterranean Cuisine
515.232.0656 Grass Run Farms Gateway Market 1301 Locust Street, Des Moines
www.StamChocolate.com 100% Grass-Fed Beef, All-Natural Central Iowa’s Good Food Market 515.244.0655
Photo Courtesy of Templeton Rye
and Confinement-Free Pork 2002 Woodland Ave., Des Moines www.ProofRestaurant.com

Frisian Farms Gouda 2712 Hoover Drive, Dorchester 515.243.1754
2321 Highland Avenue, Oskaloosa 563.492.3400 www.GatewayMarket.com Ralph’s Garden Cafe
641.673.3306 www.GrassRunFarm.com 5 S. federal Avenue, Mason City
www.FrisianFarmsGouda.com Graziano Brothers 641.422.9902
Grinnell Heritage Farm Fine Italian Foods
Northern Prairie Chevre Certified Organic Produce, Herbs 1601 S. Union Street, Des Moines Sbrocco
Woodward and Flowers 515.244.7103 Wine Bar & Wine Shop
515.438.4022 1933 Penrose Street, Grinnell 208 Court Avenue, Des Moines
www.NorthernPrairieChevre.com 641.236.4374 Greatest Grains 515.282.3663
www.GrinnellHeritageFarm.com We Are Health Minded With www.SbroccoWine.com
Beers, Wines & Spritis Your Health in Mind
Kissing Emu 1600 Harrison Street, Davenport Services
Cedar Ridge Winery & Distillery Silly Name, Serious Skin Care 563.323.7521
Award-winning Wines & Spirits Emu Meat and Skin Care Products www.GreatestGrains.com Mote Financial
1441 Marak Road, Swisher www.KissingEmu.com Fee-Only Planning for Your Life
319.857.4300 New City Market Changes
www.CRWine.com Hotels and Inns e Highest-Quality Organic and 319.393.4020
Photos by Kurt Michael Friese
Natural Foods www.MoteWealth.com

Templeton Rye B&B on Broadway 48th and University Avenue
Prohibition Era Recipe Where the Past Meets Modern Des Moines 515.255.7380 Robinson Wellness
Small Batch Rye Whiskey Conveniences www.NewCityMarket.com Patient-Centered Chiropractic
209 E. 3rd Street, Templeton 305 W. Broadway Street, Decorah 2140 Norcor Avenue, Coralville
712.669.8793 563.382.1420 New Pioneer Co-op 319.354.4186
www.TempletonRye.com Keepin' It Real Since 1971! www.RonRobinsonDC.com
Bostick Guest House 22 S. Van Buren Street, Iowa City
Toppling Goliath Brewing Historic Properties Or 1101 2nd Street, Coralville Terri Wiebold
Big Beers Brewed in Small Batches 115 N. Gilbert Street, Iowa City 319.338.9441 or 319.358.5513 Certified Holistic Nurse
310 College Drive, Decorah 319.354.2453 www.NewPi.com 1335 Antler Drive, North Liberty
563.387.6700 www.BostickHouse.com 319.626.2416
www.TGBrews.com Restaurants www.YourHealingInsights.com
Hotel Fort Des Moines
Convention & Visitors Defining Cutting-Edge Comfort, Atlas World Grill
Bureaus, etc. Convenience and Service for Over 127 Iowa Avenue, Iowa City
80 Years: We Treat You Famously 319.341.7700 Enter the Bazaar
Cedar Rapids Downtown District 1000 Walnut Street, Des Moines www.AtlasIowaCity.com
312 Second Ave SE, Cedar Rapids 800.532.1466 Interested in seeing your busi-
319.398.0449 www.HotelFortDesMoines.com Centro ness in the Edible Bazaar?
www.DowntownCR.com e Urban Eatery
Hotel Winneshiek 1007 Locust, Des Moines reach thousands of Iowans just
Greater Des Moines CVB 21st Century Comfort and 19th 515.248.1780 like you who care about Iowa
400 Locust St # 265 Century Charm www.CentroDesMoines.com and its great local foods.
Des Moines, IA 50309-2350 104 E. Water Street, Decorah
515.286.4960 800.998.4164 Devotay For more information and to
www.SeeDesMoines.com www.HotelWinn.com Real. Good. Food.
117 N. Linn Street, Iowa City get listed in the Bazaar, contact
Quad Cities CVB 319.354.1001 Kim at 319.337.7885 or via
1601 River Dr., Suite 110, Moline www.Devotay.net email Kim@EdibleIowa.com
800.747.7800
www.VisitQuadCities.com

WHAT is They Feedin’

Our Kids?
Q&A With Break-Beat Poet Idris Goodwin
By Katie Roche
Iowa Writers Workshop playwright, KR: Idris, your piece draws the link
teacher, and break - beat poet Idris between social justice and food in a
Goodwin was working in a fledgling very subtle way. Could you talk a bit
charter school in Chicago when he more in detail about this connection?
noticed that the kids where turning
their noses up at the lunch that the IG: The difficult question we all ask
state was providing “to go to the ourselves when we want to see change
nearby gas station and buy cheap is “What am I willing to give up?” Of
Cheetos and other junk food.” Idris course we all know, generally speak-
thought that the state lunch looked ing, why its more expensive to buy a
disgusting, but he saw that there were product that is grown as close to natu-
not that many healthy alternatives in ral as possible than one treated with a
the neighborhood. Limp produce or myriad of chemicals and agents that
complete lack of fresh foods are the can harm you. We can easily site
norm in most urban markets where good ole fashioned greed, irresposibil-
low income is a norm, but the differ- ity and inequity perpetuated by large
ence between the lunches supplied by corporations and government - how
different schools hit a nerve with Mr. they lower the quality of food by in-
Goodwin. creasing its production to increase the
profit for a small percent of the popu-
“ I noticed the difference in food lation, while slowly killing the insides
quality between some the schools I of the many, particularly those on the
went to in the more affluent suburbs margins. This is incredibly unjust,
and the low income areas in the though not surprising in a highly cap-
city. So I just wrote the piece.” And italist post industrial society such as
that piece, titled “What is they feedin’ ours.
our kids?” ended up on the now by-
gone HBO Def Poetry Jam. The piece Social Justice is everyone’s job.
not only became his signature piece as Change happens when citizens are
a performance poet, but it’s reception willing to sacrifice, the problem is
struck a chord in the urban and Hip At the market with break-beat poet Idris Goodwin that we like how bad we eat. We like
Hop Community who had been or- -Photo by John Photos that we can sit in our car and get a
ganizing for years to bring healthy, hot meal for around 5 bucks. We like
fresh foods into schools and neighborhoods markets by way of ac- to drink our two liters of soda, which seem to always be on sale. We’ve
tivism, community and rooftop gardens and education. Now an Iowa been raised on junk food. Its available and easy. Also, we’ve lost con-
City resident, Mr. Goodwin is watching Iowa City, a small urban cen- nection to our agricultural roots. Many people have no idea where food
ter with abundant fresh, local food struggling with the same problem: comes from, or how its grown. My grandmothers grew up down south
horrible school lunches, with ingredients flown in from far away, with on farms and when they came to the city of Detroit they brought with
unhealthy and unappealing preparations. What does Iowa have to them that knowledge of growing one’s own food. They both had veg-
learn from the harbinger of rhymes, this poet of the mouth, Idris etable gardens in their backyards which paled in comparison to the
Goodwin? His message is simple: there is more to it than “you are land they grew up on, but they had all sorts of good stuff growing,
what you eat”. The new saying should be, “Beware and be aware of tomatoes, corn, greens, lettuce, green beans, snow peas, cabbage.
what you eat”. After all, just because you can eat it doesn’t mean it’s
food. Change happens when citizens are willing to gain knowledge and apply
it. We have to be willing or else the justification will continue to be
I sat Idris down and picked his lyrical brain... “We’re giving the people what they want.”

KR: You were raised in Detroit, lived in Chicago for a long time, and
most recently lived in New Mexico. How do you view Iowa in the
quest for food justice?
IG: I see a lot of local and sustainable here. Though there is a lot of
transplants because of the University of Iowa, I do feel a sense of com-
munity here that extends to foods. I’ve enjoyed great meals in places
like the Lincoln Cafe, Augusta, Devotay and their menus tell me
where the pork comes from and where the corn is from. A lady I
worked with here in Iowa City used to bring in all sorts of fresh pro-
duce that she grew.
KR: So what are your favorite Iowa food products?
IG: Hands down- tomatoes from Kolona, especially the yellow ones.
The corn is obviously off the chain. I also like the meat produced
here. All very tasty.
KR: You do presentations as a spoken word artist in schools. Much

of your work is meant to empower young people to be able to tell
their story through performance of poetry. The ability to tell your
own story requires self awareness as does healthy, environmentally re-
sponsible food consumption. Your most well known piece is about
food, so do you talk about food when you present?
IG: I do talk a little about it. I’m not an expert or anything, but talk-
ing about what we eat is another way of talking about promoting
awareness of one’s self in relation to larger society. I try to encourage
critical thinking and having an overall awareness of what one allows
into their being whether it be food, entertainment, news, etc.
What Is They Feedin’ our Kids?
By Idris Goodwin
What manner of meat is mechanically separated lips, entrails? Processed

slabs piled high between plastic bread pieces, then bathed in lukewarm
cheese sauce. The bundle binds together under heat lamps.
What is they feedin’ our kids?
Vanessa is 15-years-old. Vanessa is eating Red Hot Cheetos at 10 o’clock in

the morning. Big white gas station bags loaded with partially hydrogenated
oils, polluting the coiled intestines.
What is they feedin’ our kids?
Martisha forgets her lunch. I tell her to have some fruit. She says, “I aint no
vegetarian,” as if she’s ever seen one. She buys chips instead. There’s strange
fruit hanging in our public school vending machines. Like drug dealers, they
whisper, “Real affordable! Only 65 cents to get your mouth hot.”
What is a Funyun?
At Evanston Township, an affluent suburban school north of Chicago, they

serve veggie burgers in the cafeteria. On the city’s Westside, at Kelvyn Park
High School, students get the No Child Left Behind special: tater
tots. Grease staining their white t-shirt uniforms. And by noon, they’re eas-
edible
ily riled like hornets. Totally unfocused. Deep fried arteries. Short term
batteries.
I ask you, what is they feedin’ our kids?
See Idris Goodwin perform this poem at www.EdibleIowa.com

iowa river valley
If you are interested in learning more about efforts being made in Iowa to
improve school lunches please visit: Better Iowa City School Food: Advertising opportunities are available for
www.BetterICSFood.WetPaint.com upcoming issues. Call 319.337.7885 or eMail
And the Leopold Center is working to improve school lunch statewide: Kim@EdibleIowa.com
www.Leopold.IAState.edu



The 99
Scott County Divide

Story & Photo By Brandi Janssen
To the average traveler driving through fresh grass. The cattle completely graze
Scott County on Interstate 80, the most each pasture, which is then allowed sev-
notable place to eat may be the World’s eral weeks to recover before being
Largest Truck Stop at exit 284. However, grazed again. This method is less envi-
just a short trip off the interstate reveals a ronmentally destructive, as the cattle are
rolling, agriculturally diverse countryside not allowed to overgraze one area. It
anchored by the urban centers of Daven- also eliminates the need to purchase ex-
port and Bettendorf. Scott County is bor- pensive cattle feed, and, as Neal points
dered by two major rivers: the Mississippi out, let the sun and grass do all the
to the east and south and the Wapsipini- work.
con to the north. The Great River Road
offers dramatic bluff and shoreline views While intensive grazing has recently en-
as it meanders through several historic joyed a lot of publicity thanks to the at-
river towns along the southern border of tention of authors like Michael Pollan
the county. This diverse landscape sup- and films like Food, Inc, the Sawyers are
ports a number of small, sustainable farms among the first farmers in Scott County
that produce food for rural and urban to use the method. They have invested
areas alike. many hours learning from other farm-
ers in Missouri and Iowa. The effort is
The local food scene in Scott County is well spent, however, as grass fed beef is
anchored by Davenport’s Freight House not only tender and flavorful, it is high
Market, an indoor/outdoor, year-round in nutrients and essential fats. You can
farmers market overlooking the Missis- purchase Sawyer Beef in halves or quar-
sippi. Open Tuesdays 3:00pm-6:00pm ters at the farm or in retail cuts at the
and Saturdays 8:00am-1:00 rain or shine, Freight House Market and Milan, IL
this festive market boasts fresh, local pro- Farmers Market.
duce, preserves, sustainably produced beef
and pork products, soap, greenhouse Farther west, near Maysville, sits Nostal-
plants, snacks and baked goods. While gia Farms. This eclectic small farm
you’re there, be sure to stop by The Bak- boasts a multitude of vegetables, flow-
ery, owned by pastry chef Rhonda Groh. ers, herbs and livestock. Business part-
Rhonda started baking part time for the ners Ed Kraklio and Joe Dennis began
market three years ago in her home Nostalgia Farms co-owner Ed Kraklio with one of his Slow Food USA selling baked goods 13 years ago; slowly
kitchen, and she’s now a fixture at the Ark-registered heritage breed Bourbon Red Turkeys their operation grew to also include pro-
Freight House with a full time indoor duce, preserves and pasture-raised poul-
stand and an outdoor location on Saturdays. You’ll also find her at the Blue try and eggs. Nostalgia Farms is now based on the family farm where Ed spent
Grass Farmers Market on Thursdays. The Bakery strives to reduce packaging for his childhood. A raucous mix of flowers, including rare varieties of irises and day
its products and uses many local ingredients, making Rhonda an avid farmers lilies carefully tended by Joe, borders the property. The chickens and ducks
market shopper, as well as a vendor. At the Blue Grass market on Thursdays, she spend their days in the orchard, keeping the bug population in check and the
purchases strawberries and blueberries for muffins and scones as well as zucchini grass clipped. Chicken eggs are sold at the farm and at the Freight House market
and onions for her savory tarts that will be sold on Saturday in Davenport. Her and the duck eggs are used in the baked goods.
farmers market offerings are also made with local eggs and honey. Rhonda is cur-
rently looking for a permanent store location for her business, which has out- The farm also raises heirloom Bourbon Red turkeys, which are processed for sale
grown her home kitchen. along with the rest of the poultry in Greene, Iowa. While all of the livestock on
the farm is eventually destined for someone’s local meal, there are a few animals
Another stop to make at the Saturday market is the Sawyer Beef booth. Neal that will live out their natural lives on the farm, including “Happy” the turkey
Sawyer is the third generation of his family to farm in the rolling hills near Prince- and “Annabelle” the sheep. Two greenhouses help with early and late season pro-
ton, Iowa. Now he and his father, Norman, manage nearly 600 acres, most of duction of lettuces, strawberries, heirloom tomatoes and eggplants. Ed and Joe
which is devoted to rotationally grazing their herd of around 200 Angus cattle. also tend a number of berry bushes, including blueberries, currants, gooseberries,
The Sawyers have sold halves and quarters of antibiotic and hormone-free, corn- service berries and Russian seaberries. These are available fresh and are used for
finished beef from their farm for the past 20 years. More recently, with the in- the many varieties of jams and preserves that Joe creates in his home kitchen to
crease in demand for grass-finished beef, Neal has intensified the grazing rotation sell at the Freight House Market.
for 150 of his herd. These cattle will be fully finished on the lush mixture of
grasses that covers the Sawyers’ farm. Neal says that the goal of their intensive Ed and Joe don’t spend all of their time at the farm or in the kitchen, however,
grazing technique is to mimic nature as closely as possible. This involves confin- they are actively involved in educational efforts around the Quad Cities. The two
ing the cattle to a relatively small space, but moving them twice daily to new, have conducted educational workshops at Vander Veer Botanical Park in Daven-

port and have welcomed student groups to the farm through Stepping Stones
after school programs. Nostalgia Farms also hosts several public events during
the season, including an iris walk and a lily walk where you can enjoy the range
of rare flowers, along with more well-known garden flowers such as purple
coneflower and bee balm, for yourself. You can find their products at the
Freight House Market as well as in notable local eateries such as The Faithful
Pilot in LeClaire and the Red Crow Grille in Bettendorf.
While getting to know your Scott County producers is one of the many benefits
of local food, you don’t have to wait for the Freight House Market or drive to a
farm to find wholesome fare. Davenport is the home of Greatest Grains, a full-
service natural foods store, open seven days a week. The store was opened in
1979 by Clyde and Julie Martens and has been at its current Harrison St loca-
tion for the past 19 years. Julie says that their wide diversity of their grocery
products and their ability to stay on top of the latest trends in health food and
supplements sets them apart from other stores. In addition to grocery items, the
store has a full service bakery and deli with nearly everything made from scratch.
There is ample space for in-store dining as well as comfortable couches on
which to enjoy your coffee, tea or smoothie while you read the morning paper.
Julie says that the deli is a popular lunch spot for local business people. The
comfortable atmosphere and great food set this establishment apart from any
chain grocery or deli.
Davenport also boasts two excellent breweries, Front Street Brewery and Great
River Brewery. The Front Street Brewery on East River Drive has been in busi-
ness for over 17 years. Offering lunch and dinner as well as libations such as Old
Davenport Gold, the commemorative Raging River Ale and a seasonal Brew-
master’s Special, the Front Street Brewery is a good destination for lunch, dinner
or an afternoon pick-me-up. The Great River Brewery on East Second Street is
Davenport’s newest brewery; the beer list includes 483 Pale Ale, La Jefa Mexi-
can Lager and the Far Out Espresso Stout. And, for your bar-hopping pleasure,
these two fine establishments are conveniently located within walking distance
of each other. If beer isn’t your thing, check out The Grape Life, a new wine
store and lounge in Davenport. With over 200 wines for sale, you’re sure to
find the perfect fit for any occasion. You can pick up a bottle for your home
cooked meal, or relax in the Lounge where the staff will open any wine in the
store for a $7 corking fee. Weekly tastings and “Unwind Wednesdays” make
The Grape Life a notable spot for any day of the week.
Scott County offers many incentives to leave the interstate for a country drive or
a day in the city. The rolling hills generate a diverse selection of meat and pro-
duce; you can easily fill your plate during any meal with the bounty of the local
landscape. Davenport and Bettendorf each offer an eclectic urban food experi-
ence ranging from crunchy granola to upscale dining, all within shouting dis-
tance of the mighty Mississippi. Scott County is a microcosm of Iowa itself: a
companionable mix of rural and urban, of river valleys and rolling farmland and
the delicacies that abound from each.
When You Go...

Freight House Market Front Street Brewery
421 West River Drive, Davenport Faithful Pilot Café & Spirits 208 East River Drive, Davenport
www.FreightHouseFarmersMarket.com 117 North Cody Road, Le Claire 563.322.1569
563.289.4156 www.FrontStreetBrew.com
e Bakery www.FaithfulPilot.com
421 West River Drive, Davenport Great River Brewery
563.332.6149 Red Crow Grill 332 E. 2nd Street, Davenport
2504 53rd Avenue, Bettendorf www.GreatRiverBrewery.com
Sawyer Beef 563.332.2370
563.289.4359 www.RedCrowGrill.net e Grape Life
www.SawyerBeef.com 3402 Elmore Avenue, Davenport
563.355.7070
Nostalgia Farms www.MyGrapeLife.com
24785 80th Avenue. Walcott Be sure to tell’em
563.940.0634
www.NostalgiaFarms.com Edible sent ya!


Welcome
to the
Good Burger
Photo By Matt Butler
Short’s Burger & Shine brings local food - and beer - down to earth
By Stephanie Catlett
I’m going to make a judgment call here—Short’s Burgers and Shine has the best rounds him, he has gained a grudging appreciation for our enthusiasm, if noth-
burgers in Iowa City. There, I said it, and I challenge you to find better. ing else.
Made with local beef from just 26.5 short miles away, and served on a made- A goal he had for Short’s from the get-go was to identify ways to draw a more
fresh-daily bun, these cooked-to-order, mouth-watering stackers, named for Iowa food-centric, less college-drinking obsessed crowd into the restaurant, which is on
towns (Dundee, Maynard, Defiance just to name a few), have raised the bar for Clinton Street amongst drinking venues like the Summit, Jake’s and the Airliner.
burger excellence in the city. For those in the know, which now includes you, the Having been pleasantly surprised by a few brews from the Hawkeye State, he had
$6 Monday night burger special has become something of a tradition. If you an epiphany. “It was like lightning struck my forehead. I thought: Why not get
haven’t already, I’d suggest you skip cooking on Mondays from here on out. all Iowa beers on tap?”
The burgers and hand-cut fries are enough to send most foodies into a droolspin, The challenge of serving craft brews in the college atmosphere of downtown was
but they are not the reason Edible has chosen to feature the restaurant in this worth the risk. “I knew that trying to create a beer bar on Clinton Street would
issue. Nope, the most interesting thing going at Short’s these days is the beer. be tough sledding, but I figured who’s not gonna love it?” Customers noticed a
Specifically, the fact that all of the beers on tap are from Iowa. difference right away, and they got excited about it.
Iowa boasts many a wonderful agricultural and culinary tradition but, with Wis- “Our customers loved that it was beer produced by people who are a part of their
consin to our northeast and St. Louis due south, few among us would consider community,” Ray says, “Plus, it’s a sneaky way of getting our customers better
our state among the great brewing capitals of the Midwest. Perhaps that’s why it beer to go with better food.” He also sites a reduction in the carbon footprint and
took the keen eye of a relative outsider to take note of our state’s blossoming craft an appeal to “local food types” as additional reasons for the switch.
brewing industry and suggest that Short’s put it on full-time display.
Once the lines had been changed over, Short’s introduced the city to a whole new
New Jersey native Raymond Sultan moved Short’s to the forefront of Iowa’s craft spectrum of beers never before available on tap. Regulars on their line-up include
beer scene by eliminating all the macro brews from the menu (and even the Court Avenue Black Hawk Stout, Old Man River Helles and Dunkel, Peace
many noteworthy regional craft beers) and replacing them all with Iowa-brewed Tree Hop Wrangler and a good selection from Iowa’s oldest brewery, the Amana
beers. Colonies’ Millstream.
A former bartender at the highly-regarded Grad Center Bar in Rhode Island, Sul- The Stout stood in for Guinness, and John’s White Ale replaced Blue Moon
tan brought to his new home in Iowa City lots of experience serving quality craft (“and it’s better,” says Ray). Sutliff Cider also became a regular in the line-up, with
beers, and his enthusiasm is catching. Having finished his work at Short’s, he cur- Ray insisting that it’s the best cider he’s ever had.
rently mans the beer cooler at John’s Grocery, where he’s been honing his Iowa
beer appreciation on an even larger scale. Ray’s interest in Iowa beers was piqued when he began to hear buzz about Peace
Tree Brewing Company. He took a drive to Knoxville for a tour one wintry Sun-
Ray didn’t come to Iowa City by choice. His girlfriend came for grad-school, and day and was impressed with what he saw and tasted there.
he tagged along reluctantly. He certainly did not arrive expecting to be impressed
with the beer, so his appreciation for Iowa brewers was hard-earned. “They have the most beautiful taproom I’ve ever seen,” he says. “I hung out with
owners Scott & Meghan, and they were great.”
“This is the most patriotic state I have ever lived in,” Ray explains in a not-ex-
actly-admiring way. But despite his loving disdain for the Iowa pride that sur- The next stop on this Jersey boy’s Tour de Breweries was Court Avenue Brewing

Company in Des Moines. That’s where, he insists, his “head exploded.” After ant, H.D. Short, who owned a shoe-shine business back in the ‘20s. A large,
tasting through their line-up, including the Court Avenue Stout that’s now a black and white photo of Short and his crew hangs by the back booth at the new
mainstay at Short’s, Ray was sold. “I knew [then] that we could feasibly serve all Short’s.
Iowa beers on tap. This is what American craft beer is supposed to be like.”
Without much fanfare or promotion, Short’s has taken local food to the next
Recent changes in Iowa law have allowed the state’s twenty-plus breweries to cre- level with their simple “do one thing and do it well” approach to food and drink.
ate beers containing up to 12% alcohol. This has increased the quality and selec- “We prefer to walk the walk and not talk,” Kevin laughs.
tion of beers available, but distribution is still catching up to demand.
Perez and Ouverson’s nod to the locavore is not just a gimmicky branding initia-
In the beginning, arranging to get the kegs was one of the toughest challenges tive, but a business decision made by a couple of business-y guys. “We find that
Ray faced. How many bartenders do you know that would be willing to borrow local food tastes better, lasts longer, and is less expensive than anything else we can
their girlfriend’s car to make out-of-town pick-ups? After several trips, and having get,” Dan explains.
demonstrated his commitment to keeping product in stock, it only took a few
phone calls per week to make the deliveries run smoothly. As for the beer, Kevin agrees that going local has also given Short’s an edge. “The
beer junkies … they find us,” he says.
“You have to let the brewers grow into themselves, and be willing to give them a
chance,” he says. “If you don’t really care about beer, it’s probably not gonna hap- An attachment to local history and a respect for local food has created a folksy at-
pen.” He hopes to see more downtown establishments take an interest in offering mosphere and an “everybody knows your name” feel at Short’s. “We’re a come as
Iowa craft beers on tap because the increase in demand would allow for more de- you are kind of place,” says Dan, “We’ve got good food, good beer, and outstand-
liveries to the area and a steadier supply for the bars. ing service.”
“I give Ray all the credit for getting this Iowa beer thing started,” says Dan Ouver- Having drawn huge crowds for the World Cup games this summer, Short’s has
son, co-owner of Shorts with Kevin Perez. “We support local because that’s what’s become the burger and beer joint Dan and Kevin had envisioned. And, with a
right, and this was a really great idea on his part, so we said ‘run with it.’” little help from a Jersey boy who really knows his beer, Short’s has shown this
beer-drinking town that it truly pays to favor local craft brews over the typical on-
Ouverson and Perez are familiar with Iowa City’s local food scene, Dan through tap offerings.
his former restaurant, Baldy’s and current partnership at the Mill, and Kevin
through his experience as a chef at 126 and owner of Mama’s Deli. But both felt Dan and Kevin plan to expand their repertoire in their new venture, a restaurant
there was something missing: the perfect burger joint to catch a Hawkeye game. highlighting local fare in the old Taste on Melrose location.
Before opening Short’s, Dan and Kevin were on the hunt every Saturday, looking If you don’t feel like firing up your grill this evening, trek over to the burger joint
for a place to have a burger and a beer, and watch the game. that’s given us all the Iowa we (or anybody else) can want, seven days a week.
Short’s keeps it simple, homegrown and true, honoring Iowa’s old traditions and
“We were always trying to figure out where we should go,” Kevin explains. After embracing the new craft beer movement that is gaining momentum throughout
Photo By Matt Butler

years of disappointment, “finally we just said, ‘we should open something.’” the state.
Dan already possessed a space that was perfectly located and, by his own estima- Sam, an UrbanSpoon.com reviewer, said it best when she remarked on Short’s
tion, underutilized (the former Baldy’s location). It seemed a natural fit. “profound simplicity.” “When I’m eating a burger in Iowa, I don’t want some
frozen trash plopped on the grill from God knows where. I want Iowa!”
The name “Short’s Burgers and Shine” was inspired by the building’s original ten-


The Last Word

By Kurt Michael Friese
Yes We Can!
Photos (c) Kevin Kennefick, excerpted from Put 'em Up! (c) by Sherri Brooks Vinton, with permission from Storey Publishing.
When I go down to see Grandma, I gain a Best of all, she makes it fun. Even my sis-
lot a weight ter Christine, long a can-o-phobic, has
been enjoying using this book.
With her dear hands she gives me plate
after plate She was first turned on to it, by the way,
She cans the pickles, sweet and dill, and when she and I interviewed Vinton for our
the songs of the whip-or-will podcast, e Blue Plate Special, available
for you to hear anytime - streaming or for
And the morning dew and the evening download - at www.EdibleRadio.com.
moon, I really gotta go down and see her
soon As if that were not enough, Ms, Vinton
will be in Iowa City September 3rd and
Cause the canned goods that I buy at the 4th demonstrating a few of her tech-
store, ain't got the summer in’em anymore niques, including the recipe on page six of
this very issue of Edible.
You bet Grandma as sure as you're born
I'll take some more potatoes and a ree recipes for zucchini. Eight for ap-
thunder storm
ples. Nine for cucumbers, nine for chiles,
-Iowa’s own Greg Brown, Canned Goods nine for tomatoes, nine for berries. And she’s just getting warmed up.
Often when I am speaking around Iowa and around the country peo- It’s not just canning either. Freezing, drying, pickling, pretty much any
ple ask me about how we can eat local food in the depths of an Iowa way there is to preserve your food, Vinton will hold your hand through
winter, and I always tell them we can do so the same way our grand- it and help you make it not just safe, but awfully dang tasty too.
mothers did. In fact it’s the same way everyone did until not very long
As an extra bonus for those of us who occasionally tip a few back now
ago. My grandma called it “Doin’ the puttin’ up,” and it was a late-
and again, she includes ten (count’em, 10) recipes for various forms of
summer-to-early-fall ritual in almost every home, once upon a time.
infused liquers, brandies and wine. Sure to warm your bones by the
ese days though folks think they don’t have the time, or the expert- fire come next February.
ise, to put food by on their own. Add to that the slightly overblown
Chock-full of useful photographs by Kevin Kennefick and pencil illus-
fear of food poisoning and soon darn few people want to do it.
trations by Elara Tanguy, Put’em Up! is exactly the guide you need to
I do not mean to disregard the potential for botulism and other extend your summer into the depths of an Iowa winter. As Greg
pathogens, just to say that they are easy to avoid with some very simple Brown said, “e canned goods that I buy at the store, ain't got the
tools and techniques, and Sherri Brooks Vinton brings them all to you summer in’em anymore”
in and amazing volume full of recipes and methods called, simply
enough, Put’em Up!
Put’em Up! A Comprehensive Home Preserving Guide for the Cre-
is is not the stodgy instructions in your tattered copy of Joy of Cook-
ative Cook, from Freezing and Drying to Canning and Pickling -
ing, nor is it the clumsy, skimpy pamphlet that came with the canning
by Sherri Brooks Vinton. Published by Storey Publishing, North
set that’s currently gathering dust in your garage or basement. Vinton’s
Adams, MA. ©2010 Sherri brooks Vinton.
book is much more than approachable, it’s virtually unputdownable. I ISBN 978-60342546-9
have no doubt we will soon see blogs from people who, a la Julie &
Julia, spend a year or more cooking their way through each and every
one of the 160+ recipes included.

Photos (c) Kevin Kennefick, excerpted from Put 'em Up! (c) by Sherri Brooks Vinton, with permission from Storey Publishing. EIRV 2010-09 - Issue 17 - Harvest - draft:Layout 1 8/16/10 11:33 AM Page 35

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EIRV 2010-09 - Issue 17 - Harvest - draft:Layout 1 8/16/10 11:31 AM Page 1

Member of Edible Communities

Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 3

WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS

Proudly printed in Iowa.

4 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

Harvest season is upon us, so that means it’s

Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 5

4 cups chopped pears (4–6 pears)

6 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

Back of the House

Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 7

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS

8 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

Secretary of Agriculture Candi-

Photo by Lisa Phillips An Open letter to

Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 9

Instructions and all recipes adapted from Cooking with

10 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 11

OUTSTANDING IN THEIR FIELDS

Photo by Luke Gran - PFI - Used with permission

12 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

“Iowa agriculture used to be about relationships and neighbors and

Just as facilitating conversations between producers is central to PFI’s

As they save, SIP participants will be matched with a mentor, and

Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 13

Story and Photos

14 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 15

Cedar Valley Sauce Company Galassi Foods

16 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

Field to Family Local Foods Festival Schedule is a Special Supplement to

Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 17

Field to Family Local Foods Festival Schedule is a Special Supplement to Edib

18 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

nt to Edible Iowa River Valley, Issue #17, Harvest 2010 - www.EdibleIowa.com

Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 19

Field to Family Local Foods Festival Schedule is a Special Supplement to

nt to Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 21

Photo Courtesy of Templeton Rye

Photos by Kurt Michael Friese

Burrowing Owl Breads

22 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

and Confinement-Free Pork 2002 Woodland Ave., Des Moines www.ProofRestaurant.com

Natural Foods www.MoteWealth.com

Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 23

WHAT is They Feedin’

24 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

KR: So what are your favorite Iowa food products?

KR: You do presentations as a spoken word artist in schools. Much

What manner of meat is mechanically separated lips, entrails? Processed

What is they feedin’ our kids?

Vanessa is 15-years-old. Vanessa is eating Red Hot Cheetos at 10 o’clock in

What is they feedin’ our kids?

At Evanston Township, an affluent suburban school north of Chicago, they

I ask you, what is they feedin’ our kids?

See Idris Goodwin perform this poem at www.EdibleIowa.com

Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 25

26 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

Harvest 2010 www.EdibleIowa.com 27

Scott County Divide

28 www.EdibleIowa.com Harvest 2010

When You Go...