01m Transmission Removal

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01M Removal and Reinstallation
Remove breather, & battery. To access top area of trans.
Remove
battery
tray to
access top
of starter
area.
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Then take PS line bracket and trans wire

harness bracket off Mount bracket bolt stud.
Pay attention to routing of wires and the wiring
bracket goes below the PS line bracket. This
must be assembled the correct way as you go
back together to make it right.
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Unplug the following in

this pic.
1. Solenoid connector
2. G68 sensor
connector
3. G22 VSS connector
4. Unscrew G22
counter clockwise to
remove it so it doesn't
get broken during
handling.
5. Unplug Multifunction
switch.
6. Pry with even
pressure upwards to
pop the shifter cable off
the shifter lever. Don’t
cock it or you'll break it
like this one is. Usually
you don’t want to
remove the bolt "X"
because you would then
loose shifter cable
adjustment. I suppose
you could paint mark
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the adjustment, then

remove the bolt, and
when you bolt it back
up just make sure the
adjustment is the
same. This might
prevent the cable end
from breaking. I just
make sure to pull the
cable off carefully.
7. Remove the
horseshoe shaped clip from the shifter cable, by prying it upwards. Then take the cable out of the cable bracket and wedge or tie the shifter cable out of the
way.
Remove the G38 sensor from the

trans. I don’t uplug it from the
sensor. Just remove it from the
trans and fold it with the entire trans
harness into the battery tray area.
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I also remove the multifunction

switch from the trans,
because once I broke one
while removing the trans it
because it brushed against
the car and broke it.
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Remove negative battery cable end

from stud on top bell bolt
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Then remove front upper bell bolt
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Then remove front rear bell bolt.
Power steering line has this

bracket on it. Don’t remove the
PS line bolt in this pic. It’s a
pain to reinstall. Just remove
the entire bracket from the
bottom starter bolt stud later
when you are under the car.
Also in this pic is the harness
carrier that bolts to the top
starter bolt. To remove the
harness carrier there is a
"latch" on the bottom. Release
the latch and push the harness
carrier towards the battery
area. It will slide around the
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harness to give you room to

take out the top starter bolt.
Here's
what it
looks at
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when the
harness
carrier is
pushed
aside.
After the
harness
carrier and
harness is
pushed out
of the
way, you'll
get a little
more room
to remove
the top
starter bolt
by getting
the
solenoid
wire and
starter
cable out of the way. First remove the cap from the starter cable.
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Then unplug the solenoid wire.
Then remove the starter cable nut and then take

the cable off and fold it into the battery tray
area..
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The 13mm nut that retains the harness carrier bracket is

hidden behind the harness carrier bracket in the picture.
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Remove the nut off then remove the top

starter bolt. You can do this from the top with
a ratchet, or from the bottom with a impact
and a swivel, after removing the belly pan,
splash guard and wheel.
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Remove the cooler and wedge it up out of your

way.
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Don’t remove the mount bolts at this

point. You want to keep the
engine/trans supported by the mount as
long as possible. Now jack up the car
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and remove the front wheels. Be sure

to support the car safely with jack
stands and I would suggest putting the
wheels under the car, as a secondary
safety. Remove the belly pan and left
side splash cover.
Later in the process you’ll be pulling the

down pipe off the exhaust manifold or
turbo so first thing you should do after
supporting the car with jack stands is to
spray the flange bolts down with PB
Blaster or some other penetrating lube
because you don’t want the studs to
break off.
Then take the power steering line

bracket off the stud on the bottom starter bolt. Then remove the starter bolt and remove the starter.
Remove the ball joint on the left

side. I don’t remove the right side
ball joint or wheel. The holes that
the bolts pass through are slotted
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and you’ll need to bolt them back up

in the same location. Usually you
can reinstall the ball joint in the same
location during reinstallation by
looking at rust pattern witness
marks. You might want to paint
mark to locate the bolts for
reinstallation. Or you can remove
the ball joint nut instead of the 3
bolts..
Note: it’s entirely possible to

remove and reinstall the entire
transmission without removing the
axles or ball joints. But without at
least one side out of the way it’s
difficult to work around it. I do this
to make it easer.
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Here's a pic removing the LS axle

bolts with the XZN (triple spline)
tool. After you remove one rotate
the right side tire to get access to
the next one. If I was doing this
on jackstands I would use my
foot to turn the tire while working
on the left side.
I usually take the bottom bolt out of the Left sway bar link.
This allows you to fold the axle out of the way, behind the
A-arm. You could just remove the axle, but then you’d have
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to have the 30mm 12 point axle socket.
Axle moved behind the A-arm.
Note: it’s entirely possible to remove and

reinstall the entire transmission without
removing the axles or ball joints. But
without at least one side out of the way it’s
difficult to work around it. I do this to make
it easer.
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Remove the Cv boot leak shield.
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Then take the xzn bolts out

of the right axle. Leave the
rear bell housing bolt
alone. It will hold the trans
in place till last.
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To see the torque converter bolts while I

work there I like to put a light here near
the RS A-Arm.
Up behind the right axle stub

there is a small round plastic
cover. Remove the cover then
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use a 15 mm to remove the 3

torque converter bolts.
To turn the engine over to access the toque

converter nuts, use a 19mm 12 point shallow
socket on the crank pulley. If you went out of
order and pulled the mount and the motor is
lower than its supposed to be then you won’t be
able to fit the ratchet in there without raising the
motor.
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At some
point in
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here you
need to
remove the
pendulum
mount.
There are
2 bolts
going into
the
“K-member” and 2 going into the trans. These are stretch bolts and should be replaced on reassembly.
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01m Transmission Removal

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This Web Page is Blank Page 1 http://www.kansascitytdi.com/01m trans removal.

01M Removal and Reinstallation

Remove breather, & battery. To access top area of trans.

Then take PS line bracket and trans wire

Unplug the following in

the adjustment, then

Remove the G38 sensor from the

I also remove the multifunction

Remove negative battery cable end

Then remove front upper bell bolt

Then remove front rear bell bolt.

Power steering line has this

harness to give you room to

Then unplug the solenoid wire.

Then remove the starter cable nut and then take

The 13mm nut that retains the harness carrier bracket is

Remove the nut off then remove the top

Remove the cooler and wedge it up out of your

Don’t remove the mount bolts at this

and remove the front wheels. Be sure

Later in the process you’ll be pulling the

Then take the power steering line

Remove the ball joint on the left

and you’ll need to bolt them back up

Note: it’s entirely possible to

Here's a pic removing the LS axle

to have the 30mm 12 point axle socket.

Axle moved behind the A-arm.

Note: it’s entirely possible to remove and

Remove the Cv boot leak shield.

Then take the xzn bolts out

To see the torque converter bolts while I

Up behind the right axle stub

use a 15 mm to remove the 3

To turn the engine over to access the toque

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