Garment Industry Departments

GARMENT EXPORTS
GARMENT INDUSTRY DEPARTMENTS AND WORKING
RAJESH.K
1
Summer Internship Report
GARMENT EXPORTS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER TITLE
1 DEPARTMENTS
2.1. MERCHANDISING
2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
2.3. FABRIC SOURCING
2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
2.7.PLANNING DEPARTMENT
2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE
2.10. CAD ROOM
2.11. CUTTING ROOM
2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
2.13. IED DEPARTMENT
2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT
2.16.QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
2.17.FINISHING DEPARTMENT
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CHAPTER 2
2.1. MERCHANDISING
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and
presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from
start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers
work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams
are made according to the buyers being handled.
Two type of merchandising done in garment exports
 Marketing merchandising.
 Product merchandising.
Marketing merchandising
Main function of marketing merchandising is
 Product Development
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 Costing
 Ordering
Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has direct
contact with the buyer.
Product merchandising
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from
sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till
shipment.
A Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows:-
 Product Development
 Market and product Analysis
 Selling the concept
 Booking orders
 Confirming Deliveries
 Designing and Sampling
 Costing
 Raw Material
 Flow Monitoring
 Production Follow Ups
 Payments Follows
Department structure
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MARKETING MERCHANDISER
HEAD MERCHANDISER
SENIOR MERCHANDISER
JUNIOR MERCHANDISER
In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior

merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and coordinating with the buyer, the
garment styles that meets buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point.
Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with
buyers, overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the
necessary paper work, provide breakdown information to all other department and get samples
approved for fit, color and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers,
approval of production samples, and development of fabric and yarns are also included in product
development, which are co-coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate
with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall
we can say that merchandising is the core department of the entire industry.
Costing
The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of
production before the buyer sends on his PO .During the pre-development stage an initial costing
occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece.
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GARMENT EXPORTS
These costs includes general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost
etc. Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a final costing is done
accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.
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GARMENT EXPORTS
Start
Obtain tech pack from buyer
Costing Sampling
Analyze fabric Analyze cost of Obtain general Develop sample as

consumption from trims and fabric sewing data from per the tech pack
CAD IED
Prepare cost sheet Develop proto

from sample sample
Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval
Confirmation Yes Approval No Cost sheet

of order reworked
Obtain PCD & Source trims & Book washing & Obtain GSD
details from fabric from embroidery capacity if from IED
production unit concerned dept. required
Execution of order by entering details in ERP
Prepare sample as per buyer requirements
Forward the sample to buyer for approval
Hold pre production Comments received from buyer

meeting with the Yes Approval No should be incorporated and fit
production unit sample reworked
Follow up with Submit required Offer garments Follow up

Execute production documents to for final on the
bulk order End
departments & documentation inspection. payments
update the buyer dept Truck out for goods
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GARMENT EXPORTS
2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
BASIC WORK FLOW;
In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments
and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit.
Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production

department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to
check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer’s
specification.
Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric
details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this
information along with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and
approval in to a style package and hands it over to the Sampling department head.
Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of

garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as
to start off the production. The sampled garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and
quality of production skills and techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of
communicating correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to
calculate the fabric consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used.
It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes
samples on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.
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TYPES OF SAMPLES
Proto Sample:
Fit Sample:
Pilot Run Sample:
Pre Production Sample:
Pre Size set:
Size Set:
TOP Sample:
Shipment Sample:
Sales Sample:
Machine details
There were a total of 300 machines in the sampling department.
 250 operators
 5 cutting tables
 8 pattern making tables
 1 conveyor belt fusing machine
Finishing machines
 11 ironing tables
 1 shirt folding machine
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The Details Attached to the Garment Sample
After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached
to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded
and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).
 Ref no.
 Color
 Fabric
 Composition
 Description
 Quantity
 Style no/ Size
 Store
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Tech pack received from merchant
Develop patterns
Costing CAD Develop sample

marker
Develop fit/proto sample
If any comments If no comments

comments
Revise Fit/Proto PP sample

sample
comments
Revise PP sample Size set sample

comments
Incorporate buyer Sealer sample

comments
comments
Incorporate buyer Bulk production

comments (shrinkage to be added
if it’s a wash program)
Fig 3: Workflow of sampling
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2.3. FABRIC SOURCING
Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
merchandise i.e fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising
department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and
cost. A fabric sourcer must have a knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute
their function effectively.
STORAGE
Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in two areas (a)Checked
fabric and (b) Unchecked fabric. Such system maintenance of the store makes it easy to locate the
fabric whenever needed in future.
FABRIC ISSUE
The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on challan. All fabric is not issued at one go; instead it
is issued as required. The challan contains information regarding style no, color, buyer’s name, and
quantity to be issued and issued for which production unit.
FABRIC SOURCING
Fabric requisition from merchandiser
Order placed
Fabric receive invoice/challan
Unloading after checking
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Tally with supplier invoice for quantity
Send bill to gate for entry
Receive fabric in store
Forward fabric for inspection
Inspection report sends to the concern merchant or sourcing dept.
After comments reentry in the system with final comments if rejected or accepted
If accepted
Relocation in store
Issue against job order
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GARMENT EXPORTS
Start
Sampling Bulk
Technical analysis. Vendor Receiving order from merchants

evaluation/selection ovendor
Technical analysis
Order Placement
If Ok If not Ok
S/Off,L Rate quotation from suppliers
Supplier selection
Submit to buyer Redo S/Off
Sampling yardage/ Resubmission POP Review & P.O Confirmation

lab tests
P.O Release to supplier

Final approval by buyer
Fabric receipt
Bulk
Co-ordinate with fabric audit &

factory for quantity and quality
checking.
End
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2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department:
The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference
is that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing
department works for sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the
same. The working is as follows.
The merchandisers give the techpack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular
style to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further process and for
costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the
price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its
production. In the process of doing the in-house price , suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button
is Rs.32 then a Taxes of 2% + 14% of exercise duty + 10% of per unit price is added as the
transportation charges and this all together makes the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5% is
also taken into consideration).
This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing
purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is confirmed by the buyer
based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.
After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other
concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the trims and
accessories with respect to colour, size, MOQ, etc., will be given by the merchandiser to the
purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for all
the orders irrespective of the buyer.
Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent to the concerned
department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw materials is sent by the
supplier then the lab dips is done and is approved by the buyer.
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GARMENT EXPORTS
After receiving the goods from the supplier they are checked for the quantity and also
checked according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of them
are not meeting this criterion. This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received
in-house timely. The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser
according to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this
breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being mentioned then
the order is being placed with the supplier several times for small quantities and PO’s have to be
sent all the time so, in order to overcome this a breakups are being is given.
Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and
when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular style and then the
department also has to maintain the receipts and also they have to maintain the documents of the
inspections that are being carried out for those materials.
Booking from merchants
Check existing stock

If Yes If No
Adjust existing qty Supplier price Quotation and

negotiation
16
Proposals
Raising PO in ERP
GARMENT EXPORTS
PO sending
Send PO to accounts
Follow ups for the Shipping doc’s-

for imports only
2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT

Sending doc’s to documentation
dept.- for imports only
The main objectives of this department are:
 Analysis of defects in the fabric by variousFollow up with stores for any

methods.
short age/ execess
 Selection of fabric according to AQL 1.5.
Inspection is done on the following grounds: End
 100% shade segregation is done.

 100% width segregation is done.
 15% fabric inspection is done for defects.
 10 – 15% shrinkage test for light weight fabrics and mostly 100% for heavy weight fabrics.
 The fabric is checked in full width form only.
 The quantity is checked, whether the mentioned length of the roll is correct or not.
SHADE SEGREGATION
The process for shade segregation in the fabric audit department is described follows:
 The fabric is received from the fabric store with Lab report.
 Swatch of fabric of about minimum 10% or at times 100% rolls from each lot / color are cut
for lab tests if any.
 ¼ meters stripe across width of each roll or taka selected is cut and shade segregation is
done. All the cut pieces are aligned and made into a family or group and declare shades.
Sometimes, swatch cards or shade bands are prepared and then fabric strip from each roll is
matched.
 In some cases the shade groups are made after washing also.
 While doing shade segregation, color matching done by using paramount color matching
cabinet which is provided with D-65, TL-84, CWF, TL-83, UV, INCA light sources.
 The shade bands or lot bands are then sent to concerned merchandisers, sourcing
departments, cutting departments for approval and references.
 All the shade details are sent to the concerned people.
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FABRIC INSPECTION
In GARMENT, four point grading system is followed in the fabric audit department. All fabrics
are inspected under the 4 point inspection system. Penalty points are assigned based on the
standard fault size for every type of fault and colored stickers are then put for the identification
of serious defects in the subsequent process.
Fault description under the 4 point inspection system :
LEVEL POINT INDICATION

0-3 inches 1 Yellow
3-6 inches 2 Green
6-9 inches 3 Navy
Over 9 inches 4 Red
 Here the fabric acceptable level is maintained at:

o 30 points per 100 sq yards for mill made/ imported fabric.
o 40 points per 100 sq yards for power loom fabric.
 For checking whether the fabric is within the acceptable level, points/100 sq. yards is
calculated as:
Points / 100 sq yard = (total no. of points * 3300) / (width in inches * length
in mtrs)
Example:-
PASS :- (57*3300) / (44*300) = 14 points / 100 sq yards
FAIL :- (47*3300) / (44*45) = 78 points / 100 sq yards
 Width measurement of all the rolls is taken at least 1 time and minimum width is recorded
which helps in freezing the cuttable width of the fabric.
 The fabric length of the roll piece is checked and compared against length declared by
supplier.
 For every fabric order one meter of fabric is kept aside for lab testing and quality standard
reference randomly.
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 Minimum of the ten bits from different bales of fabric is kept from every consignment order
for shrinkage test.
 The inspection results are then filled in goods inspection reports (GIR).
 The
GIR
reports
have
following categories:
There is a space in the bottom for “Remarks”; where whether the roll is acceptable or rejected is
specified.
 When the fabric is inspected as per the 4 – point system, the defects are marked with
different colored stickers for different types of defects as:
Red Sticker Weaving Defect
Blue Sticker Processing Defect
Green Sticker Other Defects
Arrow Sticker Centre-Selvedge shade variation.
 The fabric is issued for cutting, if both Lab & Audit reports are O.K. However, the cuttings
are kept for reference.
INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS
 The width is checked and average width is mentioned.

 The fold length is checked and the average is mentioned.
 The reed is checked and +/- 2 threads is acceptable.
 Center to selvedge color variation is not acceptable.
 For the bowing level is checked for by the following set acceptance levels:
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WIDTH LEVEL
Up to 44 inches 1” acceptable
45 to 60 inches 1.5” acceptable
60 to 72 inches 2” acceptable
 After inspection of the roll/ takka is done, if the roll is passed/ rejected, a sticker is put on the
respective roll. It contains following information:
Tag used:
I-Bangalore
Pass fabric
Bale no.- Pc no.-
 This sticker is of Fabric - Qty- green color for the pass fabrics
and magenta for the Colour- Width- rejected fabric rolls or takkas.
No. of points- Date-
MACHINE DETAILS: By- Shade- RAMSONS CHECK MATE
Face side-
Type R 501
Power input 1 Ø , 220 v, 50 Hz
Power output 3 Ø, 220 v, 50 Hz
Gear motor 1 hp, 100 rpm.
Power consumption 0,75 kw
Start
Receive fabrics
Conduct shrinkage test Verify whether quantity Forward one meter of

on minimum 2 If No received match with If Yes each consignment for
bits/bale or minimum quantity ordered lab test
10 bits of consignment
Inform to stores and prepare Inspection based on four

If No If Yes
goods received note (in case of points system. Match
imported fabric) bulk with approved dye
lot, width of fabric etc.
20
Name shade lot as ABC
Send to merchant for buyer’s
approval
GARMENT EXPORTS
If approved
Forward to
If No If Yes
cutting dept.
Reject lot
End
2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of documents
i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and revival whenever they are done they are done
according to the documents that have been received from the merchants and also the department
also makes the document for anything they carry out within their roof.
The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants would
have sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the
accessory department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular
material they will make a note of it in their ERP that they will be receiving that material and this
is termed as PRE GRN.
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Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person
verifies the materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which they would have
received from the merchant as already stated.
After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then they
carry out a quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the type of the
buyer. The company carries this inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for all the types of goods
received.
AQL quantity chart:
Lot size or quantity being audited Inspect Accept
less than 151 8 0
151-280 20 0
281-500 32 1
501-1200 32 1
1201-3200 50 2
3201-10000 80 3
10001-35000 125 5
35001-150000 200 7
150001-5000000 315 10
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500000-above 500 14
After inspecting the materials for the quality as per AQL then the allocation of trims done based
on the nature of the item.
Then the department prepares the GRN according to the materials received and against the
documents received obtained from the merchants and they also do the bill entry. The bills
whatever they enter is been forwarded to the accounts department for the payments and to fulfill
other formalities and a copy of it is also given to the sourcing department in order to inform them
about the materials in-housed.
After this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand they are,
 Sub contracting: In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery
challan and then they keep all the documents and also forward the trims along with the
document for processing.
 Production issues: Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been
approved by merchants and then prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims ready to
Start
Accept & receive materials against documents
Prepare PRE GRN
Verify materials against invoice/ Delivery challan & packing list
Carry out quality & quantity inspection as per AQL 1.5
Allocation of trims based on the nature of the item
Prepare GRN & do the bill entry. The same is

forwarded to accounts for payment
SUB-CONTRACTING PRODUCTION ISSUES
23
approved by merchants
Prepare delivery challan

GARMENT EXPORTS Prepare delivery challan & keep trims
ready to issue to the factories
Forward trims along with

documents for processing
issue to the factories. Materials to be issued after inspected
Materialsby security
to be against DC as
issued after
inspection by security against DC
already mentioned.
Material outward
2.7. PLANNING DEPARTMENT
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Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps the
merchants to determine the costing of a particular style and they also tell the merchants if the
company is capable of producing the particular style in the given span of time and also helps
them to know the capacity of the production floor.
On receiving the orders, from the merchants they start to decide the date for having the
PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments which are directly involved which are,
planning, production and the finishing departments. Then the department will allocate the style
to the unit whichever has the capacity of completing the obtained project based on the line
openings and also buyer’s specifications and the skill of labor required for it.
The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Plan Cut Date), Order
Quantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular unit in
which that particular order has been placed with.
The planning department takes the approval or sits and conducts a meeting with three
other departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling dates for the
particular style this will take about 10 – 15 days from the merchandiser approves the order that
has to be followed.
Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity
based on the garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of components
in the garment, type of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment, types of machines
required to finish the garment, any specialized machine is required or not for the manufacturing
of the garment, difficulties involved during stitching of the garment if it is of a complicated style
and structure, the skill level required for the various operations of the garment and the ratio of
the operators with respect to their skill levels required for manufacturing the particular garment
for all the operations all together. Then they finally come to a conclusion about planning entire
style.
Secondly, they confirm the details given to the concerned units i.e., they confirm the
PCD, Order quantity, sample and other similar information from them in consultation with the
GM and FM.
Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision and then they also get a
confirmation from the embroidery, washing and finishing departments if the slots for the dates
on which they have planned for those particular styles is available and then after confirmation
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they fix the particular dates on which the style has to reach the embroidery, washing and
finishing departments.
After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper confirmation
obtained from the departments the planning department will confirm the order plan with the
merchants and then provide MIS (Management Information System) report to the management
every fortnight, then they prepare a “Batch Commitment Sheet” and this sheet is prepared about
3 – 5 days before the cutting date. This commitment sheet includes the details regarding the
batch that has taken up the job of producing the particular style, the quantity which they are
committed to produce for a day and the labor details (which involves the number of operators
and to which operation they are assigned to and they skill level will also be mentioned). This
sheet will have to be updated once in a hour to know the hourly production of the batch.
Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a ‘Batch Variance Sheet”,
this sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this sheet the updating of
the style in the production floor is done and is given to the merchants on daily basis.
Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the order is completely
being executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped.
The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the raw materials to the
production floor and they must make sure that none of the days the batch /sewing line must sit
idle with a reason of raw material non-availability.
The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of the departments like the
IED, Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within the different
departments is done purely on the mail basis and sometimes through phone calls but any types of
mails regarding the changes in the line of the style or any such modifying sort of a situation then
the department maintains a hard copy of it for the future reference and confirmation.
Start
On receiving the orders, allocate the same to units

based on line openings and buyer’s ratings
Provide details to the respective units on PCD,

order quantity & sample
26
Take inputs from IED on Confirm the above details given to Confirm in consultation
productivity based on concerned units in consultation with embroidery, washing
garment analysis with GM & FM departments
Confirm order plan with merchandising team
GARMENT EXPORTS
Provide MIS report to management every
fortnight
Planning follow up with factory till order

execution
End
2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments
that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there are several
tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available in the factory for
such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics or
accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized
ones with the buyers and the merchant’s approval.
The laboratory in this unit is the centralized one for the units that are located in
Bangalore city.
The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. The departments
and their main functions and applications with the laboratory are as follows.
 Fabric Sourcing department:

The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered later
may be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production. The sourcing department as soon as it
receives the fabric swatches from the supplier they will select the fabrics which they require for
the particular style and then order for a few meters and then after they receive the small amount
then they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that are to be carried out for that particular
fabric sample. The list of tests that the sourcing department generally asks for are as follows.
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Count
Construction
Colour fastness to washing
Colour fastness to crocking
Dimensional stability to washing
Fabric strength
Fabric weight
 Accessory Stores:
The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they will have to do the
sampling process and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be
carried out for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory. The lists
of accessories and tests that are generally tested are as follows,
Button breaking test
Colored laces and tapes are tested for color fastness
Color fastness test for elastics
Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability
Corrugated box
 Merchandising Department:
The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests
which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The
garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as
per the buyer specifications.
After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment
fabric samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer
specifies.
Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a
fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally send it in a
format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of the particular
material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, color and other material
related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out the tests.
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The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like:
 Types of tests.
 Urgency of the task.
 Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally.
 Duration of the tests that has to be carried out.
 Time required in getting the proper and the required output.
 Number of samples that has to be tested.
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Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from any of the
departments they generally proceed on priority bases. If the results are required very soon and
the tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular sample is taken first and
then
Start
tested
and
sent
Fabric Sourcing Accessory stores Merchandising
back
within
Test Test Carry on test
a on fabric and day,
garment as per
buyer
Count Buttons requirement
Color laces and

Construction
twill tapes On meeting
buyer
requirement,
Color fastness Color fastness samples to be
to washing test and elastic sent to
external lab to
get approval
Color fastness
to crocking Lining fabrics
Dimensional
stability to Dimensional
washing Stability
Fabric Strength
Corrugated box
Fabric Weight
End
suppose the sample received involves more number of tests and tests which involve long
processing then such tests takes time about 2 – 3 days and then after receiving the proper output
they note down the readings in the record and then send it the concerned department form where
they have got it.
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2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE
Apart from having quality system and the best practices,’ machine maintenance’ is also a
very important are to get ‘quality’ products. Unacceptable quality of products often results ill-
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maintained machines. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward

reduced downtime and increased life respectively. Proper machine maintenance is also necessary
to avoid casualties at the floor. The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE includes;
 Care of the fittings

 Adjusting settings
 Oil changing
 Graph maintenance
 Outward/inward reports
 Needle weekly reports.
 Machine configuration chart
 History card
 Needle log cards.
Types of needles and their norms
Needle systems
MACHINE NAME NEEDLE BRAND NUMBER
Single needle lockstitch DBX1
Single needle chain stitch UYX128/TVX3
Single needle feed DBX1
Double needle lockstitch DPX1
Tandem needle lockstitch UYX128/TVX3
Double needle chain stitch UYX128/TVX3
Over lock DCX1/DCX27
Flat lock UYX128/DVX43
Picotting UOX163/TVX7
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GARMENT EXPORTS
Smoking DVKX25/DVX57
Shell stitch LS-151
Pick/ saddle stitch DBX1
Bar tack DPX5/DPX17
Button stitch( shank button) TQX3
Button stitch DPX5/DPX7
Button stitch chain stitch TQX1/TQX7
Button hole DPX5
Zigzag DBX1
Six thread cover seam m/c UOX118
33
GARMENT EXPORTS
2.10. CAD ROOM

GARMENT EXPORTS has its own CAD department for varied style garments are made with
help of Optitex software package.
FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM
CAD department is responsible for the following functions:
 Determining cutting average for costing

 Making the most efficient cutting marker
 Development and alteration of patterns
 Development of size set pattern by grading
 Embroidery graphics making
 Digitizing the pattern
BASIC WORKFLOW
Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:
 Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.
 Graded measurement spec sheet.
 Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form ( open roll or folded form),
roll size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.
Then the work of the CAD room begins.
Receive spec
sheet form
Receive patterns
from pattern
Digitize pattern
to feed in
34
GARMENT EXPORTS
Pattern correction
Output to
Pattern grading
Graphtec
plotter
Cut ratio planning

Pattern sent to
merchandiser for
Market planning sampling
according to the
cut plan ratio
Output marker Output mini

to plotter WORK FLOW marker to
IN CAD printer
DEPARTMENT
Send to cutting Send to

room for cutting merchandiser for
costing
35
GARMENT EXPORTS
2.11. CUTTING ROOM
BASIC WORK FLOW
Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production
manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of
styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the following details:
 Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only), and other trims
averages.
 Measurement sheet
 Design worksheet of the garment
 Purchase order
 Fabric requisition sheet
 CAD mini marker
 Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be
cut.
ACTUAL CUTTING PROCESS
Solid cutting
 Spreading
Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a

manner, which permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components
acceptable for assembly. For this, first of all a thin brown paper sheet is spread on the
cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during
cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric layer on
this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.
The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine.
While manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine gives faster and more
accurate results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality of the fabric & length of the
36
GARMENT EXPORTS
marker as specified by the CAD. Whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the fabric
and the capacity of the machine.
 Cutting
The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or
CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the
marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are
also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band
knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the fabric as
it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.
Spread
Place marker
Cut pattern pieces
Block cutting
Jacquard, stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreading machine due to
requirements of matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks
are spread and cut in single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time, matching
the stripes with those in the previous plies. Then block are cut out from this spread for specific
number of pieces. The size of the block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini
marker for the cutting of the blocks from the lay and placement of the patterns on the blocks.
Accordingly the cut blocks are manually marked on the top with marking chalk and using the
hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to the match the stripes and a rough
cutting of the fabric following the markings of the pattern is done. The cut shapes are again
checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to finish the
patterns.
Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved is also
more due to cutting in two stages.
37
GARMENT EXPORTS
Spread
Match
Mark blocks
Match
Mark patterns
Cut patterns
Match
Final precise shaping of patterns
Sorting and Ticketing
The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one
garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two
different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-
bolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of
marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The
worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the
cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important
means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.
38
GARMENT EXPORTS
Cut panel checking
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual
piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size,
incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not
within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component
checking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are
sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed
with the same number as the rejected ones.
Other mendable faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted
out during garment finishing or washing.
Bundling
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using
ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will
contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount
required by the production department when asked for.
Embroidery
The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for
embroidery as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and follow up
these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent are sent for embroidery, which are re-
cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same size are stitched
together temporarily before dispatch for the embroidery.
Fusing
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated
from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the
components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between
two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the
temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time.
The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re
bundled.
39
GARMENT EXPORTS
 Length of spreading table 40 meter

 Width of spreading table 6 feet(72”)
 Height of spreading table 3 feet(36”)
 Table top type Plain, card board type
 Spreading mode face one way, nap one way
 No of clamps 14
 Two air channels on the bottom side of the table surface, along with 12 air nozzles per
square meter.
 Five blow motors per table, each supplying air to the particular zone of the table.
Cutting package
from production
manager
Acquire fabric from

fabric store
Cut sample to
check
40
GARMENT EXPORTS
Require Checking
Yes
Send to CAD for
Change
No
Receive changed
Cut for initial size
pattern from CAD
set
Assemble and
check
Require changes
Yes
NO
No
Issue job
order WORK FLOW IN
Cut plan CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Bulk cutting
Sorting
Bundling
Issue 41
GARMENT EXPORTS
2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

The production floor does production in two types, once during pilot production where
they have to produce about 150 – 200 garments for the new style this will take about 40 – 55
days.
The production floor will receive the details like,
 the style or the garment,
 number of operators required,
 the batch for which the style has to be installed,
 any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,
 target for each day
 Breakup of the production quantity.
After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and
sorting section and the request is sent to the accessory stores for all the accessories that are
required for the particular style then they start the production for the new style.
Before starting the proper production the production floor does a process of batch-setting
for the floor which is training the operators for the new style that has to be produced bulk, this
teaching session will go on for about 3 – 4 days maximum. After this batch setting process the
production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e., may be for 50 pieces for the
entire day and then the production gradually increases from 50 – 100 – 150 and so on, this will
make the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has to be carried out for
the particular style.
Once the cut parts is received from the cutting and sorting section then the parts are
prepared and assembled according to the line that is planned. After the assembling of the parts is
done then there will be a line checking, where the shade matching and the measurements are
checked and sent.
During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are
 In-process checking.
 Endline checking. – Here there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.
42
GARMENT EXPORTS
The garment making is divided into three different stages and at these three stages the checking
is done.
The flow of material in the production floor is through the bundle system and each
operator gets a bundle containing similar pieces and there will be about 15 – 20 pieces in each
bundle and the operator completely finishes the job and sends it to the next operator to do the
next operation on them. Each bundle will contain same component of different garments. The
movement of the materials within the operators in the batch/line is generally zig – zag motion
which is followed. The checking person will be present at a position where the garment is
partially finished and it is as mentioned checked thrice in the line and sometimes more than three
and this depends on the buyer as well as the number of components present in the garment.
The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages the entire batch
which is been allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform,
1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.
2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach them
the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task.
3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to
them.
4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to get
him/her their material and ask them to work.
5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their best.
6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the management.
7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operator’s skill level whenever
asked for.
8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a
better person to fit into that vacant place.
9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.
10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a friendly
approach to them and also must make sure that none of them create any trouble for the
factory at any time.
The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular
line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of
the operators.
43
GARMENT EXPORTS
Start
Bulk Production
Cut parts received from

cutting
Sewing process begins
Assembly
In-Line
checking
End line checking & AQL audit
Button & button hole/ Bar tack

Washing
Rough checking
Ironing
Final checking
Measurement checking
Tagging
Packing
FSA Audit
Auditing by buyer QA
Truck out End
44
GARMENT EXPORTS
2.13. IED DEPARTMENT

The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives
the entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria,
operators skill level categorization and other related aspects hence they play a vital role in
determining the cost of producing a single piece of the garment and they also calculate the cost
of the factory for that particular style of garment.
The different departments with which the IED works are as follows.
The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the production
of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and they also help in
knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department takes a decision if
they have to proceed with the item or no.
The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the
given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories consumption by
the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose
because the entire costing criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the merchants
suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any
of the steps and the method of doing it.
The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style bulletin which
includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the garment and it also
includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has to be carried out at different
places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and approval. Types of thread (which is the
TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of labels
that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be checked,
the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style
bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.
This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is
required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an hour, for a
shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely
completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator
based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time and
also maintain the quality of their work.
45
GARMENT EXPORTS
After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the
efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the single
operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch.
This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this
report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM
value of the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date,
average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working
that day or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about
the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.
Based on the operator’s performance which would have been observed for a specified
period of time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows,
Skill type Grade

A Highly skilled
B Skilled
C Semi skilled
The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio of,

20% - Highly Skilled
25% - Skilled
55% - Semi skilled
This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication of the style.
A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases.
Because of maintaining this record they keep in track of the operator’s skill and his efficiency,
working method and after a particular span of time they update the record.
Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training
for about 45 – 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity
a grade is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has a
previous work experience in a garment industry then he is just been asked about his job which
he/she would have done in the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hour’s test to
know his skills and then grade is been allocated.
Everyday the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the
maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a production
review meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation
46
GARMENT EXPORTS
carried out in the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated
efficiency and output then they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow
the right one.
Start
Training, selection & Production Dept. Pre-prod. activities Systems

development development
Prepare O.B
Selection of operators,
helpers, supervisors, Calculate accessories
checkers, QC, etc. Hourly production tracking consumption
Line balancing
Capacity study
Efficiency calculation
Skill matrix Batch layout Style Batch

bulletin performanc
e
End
During batch setting a model of the sewing line or batch is planned in the following manner as
shown in the picture on a planning table carrying Velcro and small plastic boards which
represent the machines.
47
GARMENT EXPORTS
TIME STUDY AND ELEMENTAL BREAKDOWN WAS STUDIED FOR THE

FOLLOWING STYLE:
Style NO.2 : FL130204T
Description : Women’s 100% Cotton Casual full sleeve shirt
Buyer :Walmart
Brand : Faded Glory
Item No : H025, H027
Colors : Rally Blue, Arctic White, Berry Combo, Navy Combo
Sizes : S, M, L, XL, XXL
48
GARMENT EXPORTS
ACT time in SAM trgt in SAM trgt in
SNO
operation description smv opr min pcs pcs M/C type
85% 100% 85%
1 collar marking 0.45 N 0.53 133 113 TABLE
2 clr run st 0.6 Y 0.71 100 85 SNLS UBT
3 clr trim for run stitch 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS EC
4 clr clip & turn with iron 0.48 N 0.56 125 106 TABLE
5 clr edge st 0.42 Y 0.49 143 121 SNLS UBT
IRON
6 0.38 N 0.45 134
clr band iron 158 TABLE
7 satin tape attach to NB 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
8 clr band att to top clr 0.51 Y 0.60 118 100 SNLS UBT
9 clr peak ready 0.55 Y 0.65 109 93 SNLS EC
10 clr ready trim & mark 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS EC
IRON
11 0.57 N 0.67 89
clr peak turn & crease 105 TABLE
12 cuff hem 0.55 Y 0.65 109 93 SNLS UBT
13 piping atach to cuff 0.607 Y 0.71 99 84 SNLS UBT
14 cuff run st 0.95 Y 1.12 63 54 SNLS EC
IRON
15 0.54 N 0.64 94
clr peak turn &iron 111 TABLE
16 slv open 0.38 N 0.45 158 134 TABLE
17 slv snall plt att(folder) 0.52 Y 0.61 115 98 SNLS UBT
18 slv tack at plkt 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
IRON
19 0.72 N 0.85 71
slvslve big plkt iron 83 TABLE
20 slv big plkt attch 0.45 Y 0.53 133 113 SNLS UBT
21 slve big plkt dia finish 0.85 Y 1.00 71 60 SNLS UBT
22 back panel box pleat 0.42 Y 0.49 143 121 SNLS UBT
23 back yoke att 0.45 Y 0.53 133 113 SNLS UBT
24 back yoke top st 0.4 Y 0.47 150 128 SNLS UBT
IRON
25 0.35 N 0.41 146
back patch fab iron 171 TABLE
26 label att to back patch fab 0.5 Y 0.59 120 102 SNLS UBT
27 patch fab att to back yoke 0.6 Y 0.71 100 85 SNLS UBT
frnt bust dart st with side
28 1.1 Y 1.29 46 SNLS UBT
close 55
49
GARMENT EXPORTS
29 frnt pckt hem with trim 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
IRON
30 0.6 N 0.71 85
frnt pckt iron 100 TABLE
31 frnt pckt att mark and set 0.65 N 0.76 92 78 TABLE
32 frnt pckt att 0.72 Y 0.85 83 71 SNLS UBT
33 bottom btn plkt hem (folder) 0.48 Y 0.56 125 106 SNLS UBT
34 B/H plkt att (kansai) 0.66 Y 0.78 91 77 SNLS UBT
35 frnt back set(slv, clr & cuff) 1.33 N 1.56 45 38 TABLE
36 shoulder att 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT
37 shoulder top st 0.48 Y 0.56 125 106 SNLS UBT
38 clr att 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT
39 clr finish uptosatin tape 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT
40 clr finish above satin tape 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
41 slv tack 0.4 Y 0.47 150 128 SNLS UBT
42 guesset & btm side edge st 0.659 Y 0.78 91 77 SNLS UBT
43 sle O/L&btm gusset O/L 1.2 Y 1.41 50 43 5T O/L
44 slv top st &gusset T/S 1.08 Y 1.27 56 47 DNLS
45 side seam att wth W/C label 0.95 Y 1.12 63 54 SNLS UBT
46 side seam O/L 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 5T O/L
47 side seam top st 1.15 Y 1.35 52 44 FOA
48 pleat making 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 SNLS UBT
49 cuff att 0.655 Y 0.77 92 78 SNLS UBT
50 cuff finish 0.69 Y 0.81 87 74 SNLS UBT
51 cufftop st 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 SNLS UBT
52 btm stay st 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
53 btm hem 0.85 Y 1.00 71 60 SNLS UBT
54 Total 31.89 Y 37.52
TOTAL SAM 31.89 37.52
OPERATOR SAM 25.34 29.81
NON-OPERATOR SAM 6.55 7.71
50
GARMENT EXPORTS
2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
The embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the
particular style demands. The embroidery section is the centralized and the second largest
embroidery unit in Asia.
The embroidery section receives the garment, style and the embroidery details from
the merchandisers in the form of the hard copy format which is generally maintained in
company, the department will maintain the file for all the formats received and they will also
get a sample of the garment on which the embroidery has been already done and they will use
this as their reference sample / piece.
As soon as the department receives the details they check the design that has to be
done and they scan the design using the CAD software and then they digitize the design and
check for the number of stitches involved, area the design has to cover, the style of the stitch
involved for the design, thread colours required, thread tex, starting point of the design on the
garment while performing the operation etc., all these things are calculated and tabulated in
the softcopy format and give to the merchandiser and after an approval from them they start
the further operation .
After the design has been finalized then they do the embroidery for the samples that
has to be produced to the buyer, these samples are done for about 6 – 7 garments and it is
something done against the actual or exact order quantity. After the samples have been
generated then they conduct the pilot run in the embroidery section.
Once the order has been confirmed and the exact order quantity that has to be
produced is known then they start the bulk production during the production the embroidery
action on the garment is done in two ways one is after the entire garment has been sewn and
the other case is after the garment panels has been cut and before sewing them into a
complete garment.
The embroidery section receives the garments from the sewing floor or from the
cutting department and then they start their embroidery process.
After the embroidery is been done for the first set of the garment or the cut parts
received then they send them to the trimming and the checking section for every machine
there are operators for this process.
51
GARMENT EXPORTS
The operators are provided with hearing aids in this department because of the
maximum noise that is been produced by the machines.
Start
Receive designs from the merchant
Scan and punch design
Strike- off of design
Samples to be done against orders
Conduct pilot run of the styles
Start bulk production
Trimming & checking
Packing
Delivery
Style reconciliation
End
52
GARMENT EXPORTS
2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT

Once the garment has been finished with all the operations then they are sent to the
washing department for the washing or finishing that has to be done for that particular style
according to the buyers specifications and hence it plays a vital role in the final feel and the
texture of the garment which has to match the specifications of the buyer 100%.
The merchandiser after getting the sample done, they bring the original sample that
will be sent to the merchants by the buyer and they will also get the sample done in the
factory and then they show both the samples and the specifications and ask the washing
department to match the factory sample with the buyer sent sample with respect to the feel
and the texture, for this the merchandiser himself/herself comes to the washing department in
case of samples.
The washing unit will now check the garment for the different aspects like,
 Type of the material.
 The texture that is under demand.
 The feel and look of the garment under demand.
 Types of labels that are been used in the garment.
 Dye stuffs used for the garment (if it is a coloured fabric).
 Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment.
 Types of threads used for in sewing.
 Types of chemicals that should be used to get the desired finish.
 The after effects of those chemicals on the fabric.
 The sensitivity criteria of the fabric.
 The wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product.
 The sequence of the processes.
 Temperature at which the garment has to be treated.
 Duration of the treatment.
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GARMENT EXPORTS
After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for the garment they start treating
the garments in the desired sequence.
At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise, suppose the
garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in the similar manner then
such styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles.
After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyer’s specifications. In this
washing there are two types.
1. Wet processing
2. Dry processing
First the dry processing is carried out and then the wet processing is been followed. In the dry
processing there are four different types they are,
1. Grinding
2. Ripping or Blowout
3. Sandblasting
4. Crinkling
After the dry processing the next main thing which has to be done is wet processing. Wet
processing involves mainly two types, they are
1. Dyeing: this is mainly done using two types of dyes which are reactive dyes and
pigment dyes, these two dyes are more commonly used in practice and sometimes the
usage of the dyes depends on the fabric and the buyer demands and requirements.
2. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken to the
washing process. There are different types of washing procedures involved and they
are classified as follows,
 Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry
 Softener wash
 Desize wash
 Enzyme wash
 Stone enzyme wash
 Rubber ball wash
 Denim wash
 Bleach wash
 Tinting/ T- staining
54
GARMENT EXPORTS
Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand for dyeing so at such
situations they are sent directly to the washing process from the dry processing stage or else
the original procedure that is followed in the company is that first the garments are sent to the
dry processing and then from there to the wet processing where it is first sent to the dyeing
and then to the washing process.
After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction where in
which a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine depending on the
tumbler capacity and then the excess of water which had accumulated in the previous stages
will be extracted by compressing the garment with the optimum pressure that has to be used
for that particular style / garment.
Then the garments are dried using the drier. After the garments are dried they are
inspected by the inspection people and the inspection here is random it does not involve any
organized way, any garment from the entire lot is randomly selected and inspected according
to the criteria that will be specified to them by the merchandiser.
Once the inspection is over the garments are sent to the finishing and the packing
section or sometimes if the garments has to be attached with some accessories or trims after
the washing and dyeing stages then such styles are sent to the production floor to finish the
left over job on them and then sent to the finishing and the packing department.
The washing department in this unit (Unit – 7) is the centralized one for the units
located in Bangalore and its surrounding areas so the washing unit will be receiving the
garments from different units for the washing purposes hence this department has to keep in
track of the garments, quantity of the garments received, processes that has to be carried out
for them, the stage in which they are, duration required for the process to be finished for the
garments according to the types of the washes prescribed for them, etc., hence this
department maintains a record in which they fill in the details of the garment style number,
PO number, item number, quantity received and the day and date of recieval. The department
maintains these details both in the soft as well as in the hard copy format. The department
will enter the details in the ERP. Whenever the washing unit receives or delivers the garment
lot from the different units then the communication is mainly through the e-mails and also
phone calls.
Start
Receipt of goods from

different units
Segregation (JO wise, 55

Summer Internship Report unit wise, shade wise)
Washing
GARMENT EXPORTS
Wet Processing Dry process:

grinding/ripping/blowout/sand
blasting/crinkling/whiskering/ severen
Dyeing Washing:
softener/acid/desize/enzyme/stone/r
ubber ball/stone
enzyme/tinting/normal water wash/
dip n dry/denim
Reactive Pigment
Hydro Extraction
Drying
Inspection (Random)
Accounting & despatch

to different units
End
2.16. QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
56
GARMENT EXPORTS
Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule applied even to
garment industries also. In order to maintain quality the quality assurance departments has
split up their job into different stages of manufacturing and there are classified into four
major groups which are as follows.
 Pre-production audit:
In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the
production and that is the sampling stage. Here the auditing is done for all samples
and precisely for the size set samples and also for the pilot production garments. The
size set samples are given importance to because they are mainly asked by the buyer
for checking the dimensions of the garment hence an extra stress is given to these
samples and the auditing for them is mainly done for the measurements of the
garment and the measurements are checked at all the critical areas in the garment.
For example: if it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas like the
length of the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, the distance of the
belt loops, etc.,
For the pilot run production also the garments are checked for the dimensions
and also for the placement of the accessories and trims for example, the label
attachment areas, etc.,
 Cutting audit:
In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage of the garment production the
auditing is further divided into many other departments which are,
1. Spreading
2. Relay cut
3. Band knife
4. Shade
5. Hard pattern
 Sewing audit:
In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas, they are
1. In – line audit:
57
GARMENT EXPORTS
Here the garments are checked during their different stages of

manufacturing. Here the entire manufacturing process for a particular garment
is split into the required number of parts may be two – three and then at the
end of each stage the inspection is carried out by the person whose main job is
auditing.
For example if the garment that is being manufactured is a shirt then the entire
manufacturing process is broken down into stages like, the finish of front,
finish if back, sleeve attach finish and then the entire shirt. In this case the
shirt is being checked at each stage and the auditing personnel will be
provided by certain specifications and also the tolerance limits based on which
he checks the garment. Here every single garment is checked.
2. End – line audit:

Here the garments are checked after the entire process is over and the
specifications are mainly based on the dimensions of the garment at the critical
positions and then the placements of the labels.
 Button/button hole :
In this area the auditing is mainly done by the operator himself as the
job is limited, it is just button attachment that has to be done and the operator
does it himself as and when he finishes his part of the job with the garment
and the operator will be given or taught about the specifications for the
garment to attach the button/ making the button holes.
After the auditing is done in each and every stage the defects, findings and other related
information will be recorded by the concerned departments in their own formats and they will
be sent to the respective departments for rectification
2.17. FINISHING DEPARTMENT
58
GARMENT EXPORTS
The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and
it plays an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment. This department
includes majorly of the following steps,
 Trimming:
This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas.
 Inspection:
The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it
depends on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the
company has to do as specified.
 Semi – pressing:
This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes
from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and
then inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.
 Pressing:
The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the
garments are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.
 Tagging section:
Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they
are sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and
miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the
garments are folded according to the buyer’s specification and also they are either
folded plainly or sometimes they are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the
buyer’s specifications again.
The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to
be put in are all suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these
specifications.
 Packing:
59
GARMENT EXPORTS
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the
packing of the garments they are as follows,
There are generally two kinds of packing the garment,
1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will
be specified by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag
packing and then the entire garments (as per the packing criteria) is arranged
in the carton box.
2. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the
carton boxes without putting them in the poly bag.
The packing criteria followed in each carton box as already mentioned is done in different
ways which is as follows,
 Solid Packing:
In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single
colour and same size.
For example, 20 shirts of a similar colour say navy blue and the size say S will
be put in one carton box.
 Ratio Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of same colour but of
different sizes according to the ratio.
For example, S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5.
 Mixed Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of different colours but of
same size or garments with different colours and different sizes in a particular ratio
form.
After the packing is done the garments are kept in the godown/stores until the buyer sends the
buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives he will
check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments has to be accepted or
rejected.
60

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Garment Industry Departments

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GARMENT EXPORTS

GARMENT INDUSTRY DEPARTMENTS AND WORKING

Two type of merchandising done in garment exports

Main function of marketing merchandising is

A Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows:-

In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior

Obtain tech pack from buyer

Analyze fabric Analyze cost of Obtain general Develop sample as

Prepare cost sheet Develop proto

Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval

Confirmation Yes Approval No Cost sheet

Execution of order by entering details in ERP

Prepare sample as per buyer requirements

Forward the sample to buyer for approval

Hold pre production Comments received from buyer

Follow up with Submit required Offer garments Follow up

2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

BASIC WORK FLOW;

Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production

Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of

There were a total of 300 machines in the sampling department.

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample

Tech pack received from merchant

Costing CAD Develop sample

Develop fit/proto sample

If any comments If no comments

Revise Fit/Proto PP sample

Revise PP sample Size set sample

If any comments If no comments

Incorporate buyer Sealer sample

Incorporate buyer Bulk production

2.3. FABRIC SOURCING

Fabric requisition from merchandiser

Fabric receive invoice/challan

Unloading after checking

Tally with supplier invoice for quantity

Send bill to gate for entry

Receive fabric in store

Forward fabric for inspection

Inspection report sends to the concern merchant or sourcing dept.

Issue against job order

Technical analysis. Vendor Receiving order from merchants

Sampling yardage/ Resubmission POP Review & P.O Confirmation

P.O Release to supplier

Co-ordinate with fabric audit &

2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department:

Booking from merchants

Check existing stock

Adjust existing qty Supplier price Quotation and

Follow ups for the Shipping doc’s-

2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT

 Analysis of defects in the fabric by variousFollow up with stores for any

Inspection is done on the following grounds: End

 100% shade segregation is done.

LEVEL POINT INDICATION

 Here the fabric acceptable level is maintained at:

Blue Sticker Processing Defect

Green Sticker Other Defects

Arrow Sticker Centre-Selvedge shade variation.

 The width is checked and average width is mentioned.

Conduct shrinkage test Verify whether quantity Forward one meter of

Inform to stores and prepare Inspection based on four