Improving Men's Shirt Quality with Staff Training

IMPROVING QUALITY OF MEN’S SHIRT
USING TRAINING MODULE AT ARVIND

SMART TEXTILES LTD, RANCHI
APPAREL QUALITY MANAGEMENT II

END TERM JURY
A project submitted by
YUKTI DUA
BFT/17/534
Department of Fashion Technology
NIFT Patna
Under the guidance of
MR. JAYANT KUMAR

Assistant Professor
NIFT Patna
CONTENTS
ABSTRACT .................................................................................................................................................................................. 3
CERTIFICATE............................................................................................................................................................................. 4
ACKNOWLEDGMENT ............................................................................................................................................................. 5
LIST OF TABLES ....................................................................................................................................................................... 6
LIST OF FIGURES ..................................................................................................................................................................... 6
1. INTRODUCTION.............................................................................................................................................................. 7
1.1 Need of the Project .............................................................................................................................................. 7
1.2 Objective .................................................................................................................................................................. 7
2. METHODOLOGY ............................................................................................................................................................. 8
3. EXISTING QUALITY SYSTEM FOR MEN’S SHIRT MANUFACTURING ....................................................... 8
3.1 Fabric Quality......................................................................................................................................................... 8
3.2 Trims & Accessories Quality .......................................................................................................................... 12
3.3 Cutting Quality..................................................................................................................................................... 13
3.4 Sewing & Finishing Quality ............................................................................................................................ 14
Data Analysis of Checker’s Calibration ............................................................................................................... 17
Instruction Formats .................................................................................................................................................... 19
3.5 Shipment Quality ................................................................................................................................................ 25
4. TRAINING MODULE FOR MEN’S SHIRT MANUFACTURING ...................................................................... 27
4.1 Fabric Store Training Module ....................................................................................................................... 27
4.2 Trims and Accessories Store Training Module ...................................................................................... 28
4.3 Cutting Section Training Module ................................................................................................................. 29
4.4 Sewing and Finishing Section Training Module .................................................................................... 30
4.5 Finish Garments Warehouse Training Module ...................................................................................... 35
RESULTS .................................................................................................................................................................................... 37
CONCLUSION ........................................................................................................................................................................... 39
REFERENCES ........................................................................................................................................................................... 40
ANNEXURES............................................................................................................................................................................. 41
Improving Quality of Men’s Shirt Using Training Module at Arvind Smart Textiles Ltd
Ranchi, Jharkhand
ABSTRACT
Reduction in defect rate plays a significant role in improving overall quality and thereby having a
positive effect on overall company’s performance. This project discusses the work of reducing defects
in the process as a part of Quality Control by creating a Training Module for the manufacturing of a
product, Men’s Shirt. The project was carried out at “Arvind Smart Textiles Ltd, Ranchi”. It
highlights the problems and their causes which ultimately lead to the poor-quality performance in the
garment production unit.
The first step in the process of defect reduction and apparel quality management is to study the current
quality checkpoints of the process, obtain accurate data and interpret them correctly so that the right
action could be taken. The purpose of minimizing defects can only be fulfilled when required actions
for quality control are taken during each and every step so that accurate data could be obtained, and a
Training Module can be created for the reduction of defects in the manufacturing process of a Men’s
Shirt.
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CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that this Project Report titled “Improving Quality of a Men’s Shirt By Using a
Training Module at Arvind Smart Textiles Ltd, Ranchi” is based on my original research work,
conducted under the guidance of Mr. Jayant Kumar, Assistant Professor, NIFT Patna towards partial
fulfilment of the requirement for End Term Jury Submission of subject, Apparel Quality Management
II of the Bachelor’s Degree in Fashion Technology (Apparel Production), of the National Institute of
Fashion Technology, Patna.
No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever borrowed has been
duly acknowledged.
_______________ _____________________
YUKTI DUA MR. JAYANT KUMAR
BFT/17/534 Assistant Professor
Ranchi, Jharkhand
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
I wish to place on records, our deep sense of gratitude to my subject faculty and my mentor Mr.
Jayant Kumar, Assistant Professor who guided me throughout the semester and gave me direction
to complete this project.
I would like to thank all my faculties at NIFT, who trained me and groomed me so that I could
become capable of understanding the working of the garment industry.
I would also like to thank my seniors who also guided me and shared their information with me
from Arvind Smart Textile Ltd, Ranchi and had been a constant source of encouragement and new
ideas.
And lastly, I am deeply grateful to my family and friends, for their constant support and to make
my work easy going.
YUKTI DUA
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Patna
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LIST OF TABLES
Table 1: Fabric Testing Procedures followed at Arvind Mills, Ranchi ............................................... 10

Table 2: Other Testing Procedures followed at Arvind Mills, Ranchi ................................................ 11
Table 3: Quality Procedure followed at Arvind, Ranchi for the Final Inspection ............................... 16
Table 4: Marking Criteria .................................................................................................................... 17
Table 5: Grading Criteria ..................................................................................................................... 17
Table 6: Checkers Calibration Result .................................................................................................. 18
Table 7: 7 Point Quality Inspection for Shipping ................................................................................ 25
Table 8: Quality Checkpoints of Sewing Department ......................................................................... 31
LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 1: Problems and Solutions of Defects in Trims ........................................................................ 13

Figure 2: Checker Calibration Report (Assembly) .............................................................................. 18
Figure 3: Zone Wise Explanation ........................................................................................................ 19
Figure 4: Clockwise Checking Sequence............................................................................................. 20
Figure 5: General Instructions For Assembly ..................................................................................... 21
Figure 6: General Instructions For Preparatory .................................................................................. 22
Figure 7: Defect Library For Assembly ............................................................................................... 23
Figure 8: Defect Library For Preparatory ............................................................................................ 24
Figure 9: General Instruction for Packaging ........................................................................................ 25
Figure 10: 10 Point Quality Inspection for Shipping ........................................................................... 26
Figure 11: Training of Checkers .......................................................................................................... 33
Figure 12: Instruction Formats Displayed in Preparatory Section ....................................................... 34
Figure 13: Training of Checkers .......................................................................................................... 34
Figure 14: Instruction Formats Displayed in Preparatory Section ....................................................... 35
Figure 15: Individual Assessment of Inline Checkers ......................................................................... 37
Figure 16: Overall Performance of Checkers ...................................................................................... 38
Figure 17: Overall DHU of Men’s Shirts............................................................................................. 38
Ranchi, Jharkhand
1. INTRODUCTION
Arvind Smart Textiles Ltd is a new garment manufacturing unit which has been established in Ranchi
in November 2018. They are manufacturing Men’s formal/casual shirt for exports. The company runs
in two shifts. The planned production capacity is 7000 pieces per shift. There are total 1112 manpower
on production floor including both shifts. The operators have been hired from various training centres
and the company have trained them for 4 months.
The first challenge that a new company faces is to introduce its workforce to the concept of
manufacturing garment. Only then the company can make them understand the importance of quality
and guide them at every stage to achieve it. However, it becomes challenging when the workforce of
the company has difficulty in adapting to the work culture of the industry.
Being new operators, it becomes difficult for them to achieve right quality in first time. Even the
checkers, who are not completely aware about the importance of quality, are not able to detect every
defective piece. Therefore, it is natural that in initial stage plenty of defects will occur. Unfortunately,
it becomes disadvantage for a company in terms of time and money.
1.1 Need of the Project

• While observing the existing quality system, it was found that proper reports were not available
at each quality checkpoint due to which there was a problem in identifying major defects.
• One of the major reasons of high alteration rate was that defects were passing from one
department to the other even after being checked thereby implying the fact that inspection of
garments was not being done properly.
• Although some of the checkers have been trained initially, rest of them were learning from
their fellow checkers, team leaders and quality controllers.
1.2 Objective
To design a training module from fabric receiving till dispatch to check the quality of a garment (here,
Men’s Shirt) manufactured by the organization (here, Arvind Smart Textiles Ltd, Ranchi).
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2. METHODOLOGY
• Observation and analysis of existing system at different quality checkpoints within factory.
• Improvement in existing system of recording defects.
o Analysis of recorded defect data
o Calibration of checkers
o Training module created for training checkers at every department: This would
be done by preparing different set of visual guidelines for checkers’ training
purpose. These guidelines will be used by Quality Assurance In charge to train
checkers.
o Training given to all quality checkers.
o Recalibration done to check the improvement in the performance of checkers.
• Analysis of the Improvement expected in all the Departments
o Expected improvements will be studied and will be compared with previous situation
in sewing department.
3. EXISTING QUALITY SYSTEM FOR MEN’S SHIRT

MANUFACTURING
The whole factory was observed for quality check points. Below is the list of all the quality checkpoints
and checking techniques Department wise:
3.1 Fabric Quality

I. General:
The supplier will inspect 100% of the fabric used to manufacture a Shirt before dispatching.
II. Quality Issues:
• Confirm the number of rolls.

• Confirm the yardage & fabric width.
• Grouping of shades.
• Quality and Specifications of fabric received.
• Shrinkage of fabric received.
III. System & Procedures:
• Fabric will be received by the store based on Commercial invoice.

• Stores will mach the roll/takka number with the packing list.
• Store will send swatches to the merchandising department confirmation of fabric.
• To confirm Yardage & width: 10% of rolls/takkas will be checked for Yardage and width.
Ranchi, Jharkhand
• In the case of rolls, the yardage will be noted down during fabric checking on the fabric
Inspection machine.
• In the case the Takkas, the shortage will be identified while on the cutting table. If the length is
found short, 20% more fabric will be checked. This information will be send to merchandising
dep. & Commercial department.
IV. To confirm fabric Quality:
• 10% of rolls/takas will be checked on 4-point system.

• The report will go to the Merchandising & Commercial departments. If any roll/ taka is failed, it
will be rejected.
• Acceptance level is 20 points/100 sq. yard. Select at least one roll each from all colors of fabric
of the same order.
• Balance roll can be selected on pro-rata basis to the fabric quantity available in each color.
V. To group shades:
• For Wash Garment Program:

• Fabric bits will be cut from every roll / takka10” length by the fabric width. The roll
number will be marked on these fabric bits by Permanent marker pen.
• Both ends of the bits will be brought together to see shade variation between selvedges.
• If there is shade variation between selvedges, the roll/taka will be separated.
• Swatches will be cut from the bits of 10” x 10” and all the edges will be over locked.
• The swatches will be joined to make blankets (maximum 20 swatches in one blanket)
and will be washed as per standards.
• The swatches will then be separated and grouped into different shades. If there are too
many groups, swatches with the closet shade will be grouped into families in consultation
with the merchandising department & the top management.
• For Non-Wash Garment Program: The procedure is like Wash Garment Program but here,
marking will be done by chalk.
Note: Same shade group fabric will be issued to the cutting department against the requisition, which
will be cut covering all sizes in same % of order quantity to avoid shade variation between pieces when
packed in ratio.
• The fabric at sampling stage is sent for FPT test to the Intertex, Mumbai or Berauvertas, Delhi.
The basic tests to be performed while pre-production and production are carried in the company
itself.
• Temperature for testing is 25-30 °C and relative humidity of 65+-3%.
• The Lab is certified by Testfabrics, Inc., and ISO.
• The fabric is then cut from each roll of a lot received in the fabric storage section and then sent
for testing in the laboratory with roll number length and shade mentioned on it.
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Table 1: Fabric Testing Procedures followed at Arvind Mills, Ranchi
The fabric is cut with GSM cutter, weighed, and multiplied by 100 to
find the GSM of the fabric.
GSM
Fabric GSM cutter Diameter

(cm)
=11.3±1
The apparatus consists of a sector shaped pendulum carrying a moving

sample clamp & a fixed clamp on the frame. When the pendulum is in
the raised to starting position, the specimen is transferred between the
two clamps. The tear is started by a slit cut in the specimen between
the clamps. The pointer attached to the pendulum, which is graduated
to read the tearing force directly.
Along Warp- The tearing strength should be more than 2000 grams
Tearing Test Along weft- The tearing strength should be more than 1500 grams
SAMPLE (Template is used)

DIMENSIONS=10 x 7 cms
During the test, a white conditioned rubbing cloth would

be rubbing on the test specimen, back and forth in a straight line for 10
cycles with downward force. Usually, two tests would be made, one
with a dry rubbing cloth and another with a wet one.
Crocking Test Then, after the test is done, the tested rubbing cloth should
be evaluated against the grey scale under decent light source.
SAMPLE SIZE The color fastness to Crocking/Rubbing is categorized from 1 to 5.
(Template is used) The higher the number, the better the fastness.
21x8.5cms
Ranchi, Jharkhand
A 25 x 25cm marked fabric sample is sent for washing (type of wash

as per buyer requirements). After washing the dimensions are checked
Shrinkage Test again in the warp and weft direction to see the difference in
measurement. The value of measurement after wash is subtracted from
25cm and the difference is multiplied by 4 to calculate the shrinkage
% in a meter length.
Table 2: Other Testing Procedures followed at Arvind Mills, Ranchi
Fusing is applied on the fabric sample and the one end of fabric is
attached to clamp and other end of clamp to fusing and the lower clamp
is pulled apart while the upper clamp is stationery and the force at
which fusing starts peeling is noted.
Fusing Peel Bond Test for Standard for fusing testing:
Different Fusing Categories a) Lapel woven fusing: 2.5 to 3 kgf standard
b) Body net woven fusing: 4 to 5 kgf standard
c) Belt canvas fusing: 1.8 to 2 kgf standard
d) Microdot fusing: 1.5 to 2.5 kgf standard
Force to pull the button out from fabric.

Consists of an Upper Snap Clamp, a Lower Fabric Clamp, and Force
Gauge mounted on a Stand. The snap component is gripped by the
Button Pull Tester Test Upper Snap Clamp and the garment is fixed to the lower Fabric Clamp
and by turning the Top Flywheel an operator can apply a specific force
and the holding force. The breaking strength can be recorded.
9.5 kgf standard
The fabric sample is stitched to make a seam required to be tested and

the one end of fabric is attached to clamp and other end of fabric to the
other clamp and the lower clamp is pulled apart while the upper is
Seam Slippage and stationery. The force at which the seam starts to slip before the seam
Strength threads are broken is noted which is the seam slippage force and the
force after slippage to break the seam totally is the seam strength.
Standards of seam strength

Warp-12kgf
Weft-10kgf
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3.2 Trims & Accessories Quality
I. General
100% of the trims used to construct a Shirt are inspected at supplier’s end.
Sewing trims & accessories are - Thread, labels, elastic, zipper, Velcro tape, ribbon etc.
Finishing trims & accessories are – Tags, Tagpins, Price ticket, button, polybags, hanger
II. Quality Issues
• To confirm the quantity

• To confirm the printings on labels, tags & carton etc.
• To confirm the shades ex. Thread, Buttons, Tags etc.
• To confirm the strength of cartons.
III. Quality Assurance Systems & Procedures
• Merchandising department will give a trim swatch card to the stores for the specific style,
which include representative swatches for all trims.
• Store will compare the swatches with the received items.
• 10% of the trims will be checked for quantity and quality (correctness of printing, shades &
damages.)
• Buttons and Price tickets will be checked for 100% of the quantity.
IV. Tools Required
• Table
• Trays
• Necessary Formats
V. Formats & Reporting Procedures
• For confirming quantity & quality-Inspection Shortage Report for Accessories & Fabrics-
Format F/A2.
• The shortage/quality issues will be informed to commercial & merchandising departments
copy to Production Manager.
VI. Defect classification for audit
• Missed printing/wrong printing Major

on label/price ticket/polybag etc.
• Shade difference within Major
• Broken button Major
Ranchi, Jharkhand
VII. Analysis and Actions taken Procedures
Figure 1: Problems and Solutions of Defects in Trims
3.3 Cutting Quality

I. General
Fabric will be issued by store to cutting department against requisition slip containing order number,
Style number, color, sizes to cut, fabric required.
II. Quality Issues
• Mis cut
• Matching plies
• Missing notches
• Fabric defects
• Pattern check
• Cut number
• Ragged cutting
III. Tools Required
• Checking table with sufficient light

• Light box
• Necessary Formats
• Inch tape
IV. Quality Assurance System & Procedures
• 10% of the cut – panels will be inspected (or a fair representation of the cutting production)
on 2.5 AQL (Acceptance Quality Level).
• Marker placement: Check that the marker is placed on the spread with the edge parallel to
the selvedge of the piece goods. Verify that all cut pieces will be complete.
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• Shading: Check for shading. Select a ply number randomly, collect all parts and check for
shading.
• Table Marks: Check the table mark as the “table” is marked. Allow no minus tolerance for
the splices.
• Markers: Ensure that no markers are creased, damaged or have overlapped parts. After
completion of the spread, check splice laps to see that both plies extend past the marked splice
by no less than ½” and no more than 1 inch.
• Narrow Goods: After completion of the spread, check the “far edge” of the spread to see that
all plies extend beyond the marker line.
• Tension: Check tension during spreading.
• Count: Check the count after completion of spreading, and before cutting. Count all the parts
at both ends. There is to tolerance.
• Leaning: Check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to the table to usually
inspect the alignment of the edge with the tabletop.
3.4 Sewing & Finishing Quality

In the Ranchi facility of Arvind Mills, different types of inspections are done for improving a Shirt’s
quality. It helps to prevent defects in manufacturing process. Inspection is one of the main tools of
quality assurance. During garments productions to ensure quality they apply 4 types of inspection
processes:
• In line inspection
• Table inspection
• Pre-final inspection
• Final or Pre shipment inspection
I. In-Line Inspection
In-line Quality Inspection means inspecting goods at the time of production, so that any defect
occurring at this time may be located at the earliest stage or as is called at needle point and may be
easily repaired. This process is done instead of checking at the end of the process. Thus, repair becomes
easy and cost remains lower. Thus garments defects rate remains at minimal.
Key Guidelines to In line Quality Inspection:
• In order to successfully conduct quality inspection of garments some guidelines must be
needed. For inspection purpose the inspector should pursue the following guidelines:
• Quality Inspector must have a worksheet along with size-spec and special buyer instruction, if
there is any.
• For each style there should be an approved sample in close proximity to the inspector.
• First pre-production and production samples must be closely monitored and inspected to check
the following-
• Check size-spec rigorously.
• Check sewing and non-sewing defects.
• Check if there is any oil marks, stain marks or shading.
• Check if there are defects due to machine, needle, thread, or feed mechanism, etc.
Ranchi, Jharkhand
• Check if right color & type of thread, button, zipper, lining, shell, label, logo, etc. have been
used.
• Check if buyer’s special instruments have been followed or not.
• Check location of major defects & identify why they originated.
• Ensure that machines, tables, and operators hands are clean.
• Ensure that right type of needle, feed-mechanisms, etc. are in use.
• Always follow worksheet, buyer’s instructions, size-spec, and assortment.
II. Table inspection
After completion of production, each item is rigorously inspected on a table to locate any remaining
defect. Item without defect is passed while defectives are rejected. Defectives are however, repaired if
possible. Table inspection is the mainstream inspection method. It is also called “End of the line
inspection system”. It is the most original inspection system the civilization has discovered
in garment industry. Table inspection is done after the inline quality inspection.
There are some inspection procedures these are following to maintain for table quality inspection in
the apparel industry.
• Keep your table and hands clean.
• Take the garments and put it spread on the table keeping the most important zone (Zone-A) in
front of you.
• Locate any defect in this zone. If you identify any major defect, mark it and keep the garment
in the Reject basket.
• If you identify the minor defects on the zone-A, mark them s major defects. Reject them and
keep them in Major defect basket.
• Check zone-II & III or B & C of the garments and identify defects as per buyer’s instruction/
manual.
• Quality supervisor or Quality Manager will check major defect basket & Reject basket to check
for repairable.
• Repairable garments will go to rework in a separate basket (Properly marked on the basket)
• They will be rigorously inspected separately.
• Garments remaining after sorting out of repairable garments from Reject basket & Major defect
basket will be treated as rejects.
• Reject garments shall be kept in reject basket (Properly inscribed on the basket) and they will
be under the full care of the quality manager until the shipment of the consignment.
• Garments passed by the inspectors shall be kept in baskets inscribed “Passed Garments”. They
will flow on wards for lot pass.
III. Pre-final or lot pass inspection:
Some apparel industry conduct per-final or lot pass inspection randomly on table passed sewn goods
to bolster inspection procedure so that no defective goods can pass the rigorous inspection network.
This inspection is conducted by random selection of goods as per predetermine procedure specified by
statistical quality control technique in apparel industry. Lot pass inspection procedure:
• Take a lot of garments passed by table inspectors & counts the quantity. This quantity will be
treated as lot size.
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• Draw sample size randomly from this lot as per your inspection sampling plan (AQL) for final
inspection is 4% use here inspection sampling plan for AQL or 1.5%.
• Inspection the sample goods.
• Count the reject garments from this sample. If reject quantity exceeds in the sampling plan,
reject the whole lot to the table inspectors for re-check, otherwise accept the lot. Document
your all activity.
• Goods passed in the lot-pass section shall be delivered to the finishing document this quantity
in the register.
IV. Final inspection
Final quality inspections are the last activity which performed before shipment. After complete the pre-
final or lot pass inspection, this kind of inspection process commonly coordinated by final
inspector before the shipment, it’s called final inspection. It is also known as pre-shipment inspection.
After packing and cartooning is over, all the items comprising a consignment ready for shipment is
also called a lot or population on which statistical method can be successfully used. Any sample
randomly taken from such a lot can represent the whole lot.
Pre-shipment or final inspection is generally organized by buyer’s representative. This inspection
process mainly held on the apparel factory. If reject rate is higher than a pre-set value the whole lot is
rejected or returned for recheck. To get high quality and defect less garment, to get right measurement,
perfect finishing, and the accuracy of final inspection, apparel manufacturer have to maintain a
sequence of different steps is as follows. It is also used as a sequence of final inspection of garments
shipment lot.
Table 3: Quality Procedure followed at Arvind, Ranchi for the Final Inspection
1 Verifying Packing list comparing with P.O. sheet
2 Determining of lot size
3 Selecting of inspection severity level & sampling plan
4 Preparation of Inspection
5 Checking of carton
6 Selection of carton
7 Checking of Packing & packaging
8 Selection of sample randomly (sample packing)
9 Checking of garments Sample
10 Checking of measurement (Dimension)

Ranchi, Jharkhand
Record and list all of the major or minor

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defects/defectives/non conformances
12 Tabulation and evaluation of results from this record
13 Drawing of defective sample for reference
14 Filling up of Carton (If samples are ok)
15 Putting of Sticker & signature on carton
16 Preparation of Report
17 Conformation for the shipment
Data Analysis of Checker’s Calibration

A checker’s calibration report is prepared to assess the performance of the checkers in terms of their
checking sequence, format filling knowledge and defect knowledge. The parameters of the calibration
report is customized according to assembly and preparatory section. A minimum of three assessments
were taken for each checker. In each assessment, they were marked out of 20 and were graded
accordingly.
Marking criteria for assembly and preparatory checkers: -
Table 4: Marking Criteria
S No. Checkpoints Assembly Preparatory

1 Clockwise checking 2 -
2 Format 2 2
3 Parts 6 8
4 Defect Knowledge 10 10
5 Total 20 20
Grading criteria for assembly and preparatory checkers:
Table 5: Grading Criteria
S No. Parameters Grade

1 If total marks are greater than A
15
2 If total marks are greater than B
10 and less than equal to 15
3 If total marks are greater than 5 C
and less than equal to 10
4 If total marks are less than 5 D
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Figure 2: Checker Calibration Report (Assembly)
After three assessments, following were the results:
Table 6: Checkers Calibration Result
S No. Grade No of Checkers

1 A 6
2 B 25
3 C 32
4 D 0
As per the results, majority of checkers were under ‘C’ grade followed by ‘B’ grade. Some of the
checkers were even graded ‘D’. Only few checkers were awarded grade ‘A’. Therefore, it was decided
to prepare training module so that the checkers can be trained accordingly and it could also be used to
training new joiners.
Ranchi, Jharkhand
Instruction Formats
In Arvind Smart Textiles Ltd, checkers need to follow a set of guidelines to check a shirt. A set of
visual guidelines is prepared for checkers and has been put up. This had been done so that they would
always be able to remember them. These guidelines have been prepared in terms of:
• Different zones in shirt

Through visual representation, different zones in a shirt have been shown and their
importance have been explained in Hindi.
Figure 3: Zone Wise Explanation
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• How to check shirt
According to company, a checker is supposed to check the shirt in clockwise sequence. They start with
collar and label and move in clockwise sequence ending with pocket and front placket. The whole
checking sequence have been shown in form of clock so that they have clear idea how to proceed while
checking shirt.
Figure 4: Clockwise Checking Sequence

Ranchi, Jharkhand
• General instructions which need to be followed while checking shirt.
A set of general instructions have been prepared for both assembly and parts section. These instructions
include all the important points which the checker need to keep in mind while checking the shirt.
Relevant pictures have been inserted along with these points.
Figure 5: General Instructions For Assembly
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Figure 6: General Instructions For Preparatory

Ranchi, Jharkhand
• Different types of defects that occur in a shirt
A defect library has been displayed for checkers. This defect library contains different types of defects
along with their pictures. Also, their criticality according to different zones have been mentioned.
Figure 7: Defect Library For Assembly
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Figure 8: Defect Library For Preparatory

Ranchi, Jharkhand
Figure 9: General Instruction for Packaging
3.5 Shipment Quality

Shipping container checking is a very vital task for every garment and textile supplier to send safe products to a
customer. Shipping Container Inspection standard is to check in 7 points inspection system or 10 points
inspection system.
Objectives of Shipping Container:
• To prevent cargo damage
• Prevent product from mold effect
• Prevent carton from soil or oil spot
I. 7 points shipping / Container Inspection report
Table 7: 7 Point Quality Inspection for Shipping
Inspection Point Check Point Description

1. Outside/ a) Inspect before entering facility.
Undercarriage b) Supporting Beams should be visible.
2. Inside/ a) Secure and reliable locking mechanisms are attached to the container.
Outside Door
b) Bolts Status (Check for Loose bolts)
c)Looks for plates and repairs (Solid plates should not cover standard
container cavities).
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d) All Patches are completely sealed, No visible holes.
e) Check rubber sealing availability on the door (inside).
3. Right & a) Unusual repairs to structural beams.

Left Side b) Repairs to walls on the inside must be visible on the outside.
c) All Patches are completely sealed, No visible holes.
4. Front Wall a) Visibility of blocks and vents.

b) All Patches are completely sealed, No visible holes.
5. Ceiling/Roof a) Visibility of blocks and vents.

b) Repairs to the ceiling on the inside must be visible on the outside.
c) Roof Conditional (Damage/Leakage)
6. Floor (Inside) a) Make sure the floor is the correct height from the ceiling.
b) Make sure the floor is flat. Do not need to step up to get inside.
c) Lookout for unusual repairs.
d) Floor Condition (Cleanness/Repairs/Leakage)
7. Seal Verification a) Seal properly affixed
b) Seal meets or exceeds
c) Ensure seal is not broken or damaged
II. 10 points shipping / Container Inspection report
1. Under Carriage
2. Ceiling
3. Left Side
4. Right Side
5. Front Wall
6. Inside Outside Door
7. Lock
8. Under-seat
9. Hidden Cabinet
10. Floor
Figure 10: 10 Point Quality Inspection for Shipping

Ranchi, Jharkhand
4. TRAINING MODULE FOR MEN’S SHIRT MANUFACTURING
4.1 Fabric Store Training Module
Receiving fabrics from supplier
↓
Receiving Invoice & Packing List and mill dye lot
↓
Inside Container Condition Checking (Temp & Humidity).
↓
Physical Verification against Invoice & Packing list.
↓
Keeping roll in fabrics warehouse
↓
Fabrics inventory and making inventory report
↓
100% Width Measuring, Blanket and Shrinkage Cutting,
↓
10% or AQL sampling Dye lot Wise Fabric Inspection-4 Points System.
↓
LAB Test Physical & Chemical- In-house Lab testing
↓
Shade blanket washing as per the bulk recipe
↓
100% Shade Segregation.
↓
Shade wise color continuity card
↓
27
Shrinkage measurement
↓
Master Roll selection
↓
Shade band making
↓
Shade band washing
↓
Shade band Approval
↓
All quality procedure complete and pass
↓
Cut Plan Approval by Merchandiser
↓
Fabrics Issue to Cutting shade wise with shade note
4.2 Trims and Accessories Store Training Module
• Merchandising department shall provide all information about the complete Bill of Materials
(list of all fabrics and trims required), Packing List, Approved Trim Card and Approved Sample
of Each Trim in a Trim Card which is signed and approved by the Merchandiser and the QC
Manager.
• Trim Inspector shall follow BOM (Material list), Packing list, approved Trim Card with all
details pertaining to each item.
• An inspection shall be done following 1.5 AQL Standard. Shall select random sample quantity
as per AQL Sample Chart.
• Each item shall be inspected within 72 Hours (3 Days) upon receiving in house.
Ranchi, Jharkhand
• Shall check each item comparing with buyer approved trim sample under buyer required light
source and details specified in trim detail sheet for its Color, Size, Construction, Material,
Content, etc.
• In the event of the inspection is failed for any item, have to re-inspect 100% quantity to
determine the percentage of rejects to inform the supplier for replacement. Inspection report
duly filled with details of all observations and findings with RESULT shall submit to the Q.C.
manager.
• Q.C. manager shall notify the merchandiser immediately, in case of any lot failed for any item.
• For each style, shall store all trims separately as follows:

a. Trims not checked (To be kept) in one place.
b. Trims checked and passed in one place.
c. Trims Failed Inspection to be kept in the controlled Non-Conforming Raw-Materials area
with Red Marking. And it needs to be made sure it does not mix-up with OK goods.
4.3 Cutting Section Training Module
Cutting room is a section in the garments industry where to cut fabrics as per the pattern, marker;
cutting parts sew to bring in garments form. Cutting is the most sensitive operation in the apparel
industry, cutter man work accuracy is the key here to maintain good cutting quality.
Cutting plan based on shade band record

↓
Receive PO sheet, Tech pack and others detail
↓
Fabric received from a store as per requisition
↓
Relax fabric if necessary, with record
↓
Make a Marker to Determine consumption
↓
Marker and pattern Crosses Check (ratio, grainline, jumping, etc.)
↓
Laying as per marker length (Spreading)
↓
29
Spreading quality control

↓
Random quality check on fabric fault & others
↓
A cutting (if necessary, hand scissoring done during check fabric) and band Knife cutting (small
panel such as fusing etc.)
↓
Cutting Quality control
↓
Randomly Panel check with hard pattern
↓
Panel check with CAD marker paper
↓
Layer numbering &bundling
↓
100% panel check
↓
Replace defective parts shade wise
↓
Ready cutting parts to input.
↓
Supply to Fusing & Sewing as per approved requisition & ratio
4.4 Sewing and Finishing Section Training Module
The fit and fashion of garments are very much important. The garments made in standard
measurements do not necessarily mean that those will fit properly, will be good to look at, or will be
comfortable for wearing because fitting depends on pattern shape, pattern ratio, and on the dimension
of the pattern. The total inspection is done in the final inspection. There is no opportunity to inspect a
complete garment before this stage. This is mainly important from the buyer’s point of view.
Collar
↓
Size
Ranchi, Jharkhand
↓
Button and Buttonhole
↓
Pocket
↓
Hem
↓
Yoke and Shoulder
↓
Side seams
↓
Cuffs
↓
Finished appearance
Table 8: Quality Checkpoints of Sewing Department
Need to check whether: Both points are in the same length (± ¼ inch),
Collar properly matching of check and stripes in both ends, sewing is done properly,
broken stitches are not, the collar remains properly flat etc.
Need to check whether as per the size label of the shirt, the measurements of
Size the various parts of the shirt are ok with the measurement sheet and they are
within the tolerance level.
Need to check whether buttons are correct and placed in equal distances,
Button &
sewn properly, no broken or defective button, pattern matching (± 1/8 inch)
Buttonhole
properly done etc.
Need to check whether the upper edge of the pocket is horizontal, balance
sewing or puckering and any other defective sewing, the two upper corners
Pocket
are secured by back stitched or not, proper matching of stripes, and checks
or pattern (± 1/8 inch) are maintained or the pocket is placed properly flat.
Need to check whether the stitches are balanced or puckering, the edge is
Hem without sewing, presence of skipped stitches, sewing in the edge (within 1/16
inch) done or not?
Whether the pleat (if present) has been done at correct distance and correct
Yoke and Shoulder
place, stitches are balanced, no puckering, no skipped stitch etc.
Whether properly matching of the checks, stripes and patterns; if the stitches
Side seams
are balanced, no defects in stitches, any edges with sewing?
31
Whether matching of stripes, checks or patterns (± 1/8) are maintained with

Cuffs
the sleeve or any defects in seams or in stitches.
Finished Need to check whether the ends of the yarns are seen outside, any dust or oil
appearance spot, any fabric defect or shade variation etc.
Garment finishing is the last step of garment making. All of the finishing processes are done here.
The term Garments finishing mainly applies to pressing, folding, packing and cartooning of garments.
Finishing input (style, color & size wise)

↓
Initial quality check
↓
Spot Removing
↓
Ironing/Pressing
↓
Inspection
↓
Hang tag
↓
Get up change
↓
Folding
↓
Poly
↓
Bar code (buyer wise sticker)
↓
Metal check
↓
Cartooning/Packaging to box
↓
Inspection of ready to ship goods
↓
Dispatch shipment
Ranchi, Jharkhand
Also, in Arvind Smart Textiles Ltd, Instruction Formats are displayed on every checker’s table. Apart
from displaying these formats, a proper classroom training program has been designed with the purpose
of training these checkers.
A 12-day training program is scheduled for new and old operators and quality checkers. In this training
they were taught about:
• Identifying all parts of shirts
• Different zones in a shirt and their importance
• Sequence of checking shirt
• Identifying the types of defects with their names
• Understanding of the format
• Calculation of defective %
After the training, recalibration of the checkers is done on the floor itself and accordingly they will be
graded, and actions will be taken.
Figure 11: Training of Checkers
33
Figure 12: Instruction Formats Displayed in Preparatory Section
Figure 13: Training of Checkers

Ranchi, Jharkhand
Figure 14: Instruction Formats Displayed in Preparatory Section
Figure 15: Training of FLAs Figure 16: Training of FLAs
4.5 Finish Garments Warehouse Training Module
Finished goods warehouse of a garments industry is the goods storage area where they keep finished
garments in carton as per buyer required packing list. Temperature and mold prevention is very
important in finished goods warehouse. Arvind Smart Textiles Ltd, Ranchi has CTPAT (Customs
Trade Partnership against Terrorism) i.e. restricted block area covered by security. Finished goods
warehouse is very much restricted area, only related employees are allowed here. Carton should be
35
handled sensitively here; carton quality is a big issue to customer, crushed carton effects on product
quality.
Receiving in Finishing floor check complete cartoon are audit pass or not?
↓
If audit ok, then discuss with pack supervisor to Transfer to W/H.
↓
After confirmation take movement challan from pack supervisor
↓
Before Transfer checks the cartoons are quality ok or damage for export.
↓
If found damaged, then discuss or take necessary step to change the cartoon.
↓
If everything is okay then transfer the cartoon to W/H stacking PO, colour, and style wise as per
buyer packing requirement.
↓
Cartoon stacking must be as per Buyer Instruction or Compliance instruction.
↓
Movement challan filling or Register khata maintain.
↓
If require for pre-final or final or recheck then proceed by movement challan.
↓
After Final Inspection Pass, Packing man Handover the goods as per packing list qty.
↓
Goods will keep in CTPAT area before delivery shipping port
↓
After receiving the goods, inform to commercial and merchandising section for procedure export
process.
↓
Before loading the goods check again the export confirmation from related authorized person &
export cartoon quality ok or not?
↓
Load carton in shipping cargo serial wise as per buyer cargo handover procedure
Ranchi, Jharkhand
RESULTS
After the completion of the training program, the checkers are evaluated once again. This is done to
keep a track on the checker’s performance as well as to check the effectiveness of the training program.
The same calibration report which is used to assess them before the training is used again. The
evaluation parameters, marking and grading criteria remains the same as before. A total of three
assessments is taken. Once the assessments are completed, the average of these assessments are
calculated. This average is used to obtain the final grade of the checkers which is then compared to
their previous grade. On the basis of these comparisons, a considerate improvement is observed where
several checkers have upgraded themselves in terms of performance.
Figure 15: Individual Assessment of Inline Checkers
Here, checkers were categorized into different groups as per their grade before and after training to
indicate their overall performance. At the end of second phase of assessment, checkers had shown
significant improvement in their performance. Many checkers had improved their grade due to which
there was a positive impact on quality in the manufacturing of a Men’s Shirt.
It is clearly seen that Grade A operators are increased maximum by 27.78%, then Grade C workers are
substantially decreased by 41.67%. We also witness an increase of 13.89% in Grade B workers.
37
Figure 16: Overall Performance of Checkers
Figure 17: Overall DHU of Men’s Shirts
Throughout the Training, though the defects had shown some increase initially, they eventually
slowed down. Subsequently, the overall DHU reduced from 36.08% to 33.04% because of the
training provided to the workers with the help of the Training Module. Hence, it is evident that the
Training Module designed for Arvind Smart Textile Ltd, Ranchi for Men’s Shirts will help in the
improvement of Quality in the newly built unit. Also, new workers can be made accustomed to the
working in the garment manufacturing unit with the help of this module. Later, more such Training
Module for other garments can be made for that facility.
Ranchi, Jharkhand
CONCLUSION
Whether old or new, every company needs to maintain a level of quality to establish itself in the market.
Especially, in the garment industry where quality needs to be maintained at each stage right from the
sourcing of raw material to the finished garment. This task becomes difficult when the entire workforce
is new to the work culture of the industry and may even face problem while adapting to it.
However, proper training helps them in not only understanding this new culture but also makes them
capable of integrating themselves into it. This proves to be beneficial in attaining high standard of
quality as the checkers become capable of identifying a defective product and detain them from moving
forward.
It eventually helps in identifying problems which have major impact on overall quality standard. Using
right tools, major reasons behind these problems can be pointed out and proper actions could be taken
to resolve them.
39
REFERENCES
• Sinha, Deepika, and Archana Xaxa Joshi. "Improvising Quality by Minimizing Defects in
Sewing Module." (2019).
• Patil, N. S., et al. "Minimization of Defects in Garment during Stitching." International
Journal on Textile Engineering and Processes 3.1 (2017): 24-29.
• Islam, Md Mazedul, Adnan Maroof Khan, and Md Mashiur Rahman Khan. "Minimization of
reworks in quality and productivity improvement in the apparel industry." International
Journal of Engineering 1.4 (2013): 2305-8269.
• Tahiduzzaman, Md, et al. "Minimization of sewing defects of an apparel industry in
Bangladesh with 5S & PDCA." American Journal of Industrial Engineering 5.1 (2018): 17-
24.
• Uday Patil, Prafull P. Kolte, Pranjali Chandurkar and S.S.Rajkumar. “Performance
Improvement in Apparel Industry by Reducing DHU%.” (2015)
• Beyene, Hewan Taye. "Minimization of defects in sewing section at Garment and Textile
Factories through DMAIC methodology of Six Sigma (Case: MAA Garment and Textile
Factory), Masters diss." Mekelle University. Available online at http://ieo m society.
org/ieom2017/papers/406. pdf (2016).
• Escalante, Edgardo J. "Quality and productivity improvement: a study of variation and defects
in manufacturing." Quality Engineering 11.3 (1999): 427-442.
• Hossain, Alimran, et al. "Quality Assurance System of Garments Industry in Bangladesh: A
Case Study."
• “https://asq.org/quality-resources/learn-about-quality” retrieved on June 27, 2020 at 3:47:07
P.M.
• “https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/05/an-overview-of-quality-andquality.html”
retrieved on June 28, 2020 at 12:29:57 P.M.
• “http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/02/quality-control-apparel-industry.html”
• “https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/08/quality-control-system-ingarments_2589.html”
Ranchi, Jharkhand
ANNEXURES
A. Instruction Formats
1. Assembly
• Zone Wise Defects
41
• Clockwise Checking
Ranchi, Jharkhand
• Packaging
• General Instructions
43
• Defect Library
2. Preparatory
• General Instructions
Ranchi, Jharkhand
45
• Defect Library
Ranchi, Jharkhand
B. Checkers Calibration Report

• Assembly
47
• Collar
• Front
Ranchi, Jharkhand
• Back
• Sleeve
49
• Cuff
• Needle Change
Ranchi, Jharkhand
• Shipment Package
51

Improving Men's Shirt Quality with Staff Training

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IMPROVING QUALITY OF MEN’S SHIRT

USING TRAINING MODULE AT ARVIND

APPAREL QUALITY MANAGEMENT II

Under the guidance of

MR. JAYANT KUMAR

Table 1: Fabric Testing Procedures followed at Arvind Mills, Ranchi ............................................... 10

Figure 1: Problems and Solutions of Defects in Trims ........................................................................ 13

1.1 Need of the Project

3. EXISTING QUALITY SYSTEM FOR MEN’S SHIRT

3.1 Fabric Quality

II. Quality Issues:

• Confirm the number of rolls.

III. System & Procedures:

• Fabric will be received by the store based on Commercial invoice.

IV. To confirm fabric Quality:

• 10% of rolls/takas will be checked on 4-point system.

• For Wash Garment Program:

Table 1: Fabric Testing Procedures followed at Arvind Mills, Ranchi

Fabric GSM cutter Diameter

The apparatus consists of a sector shaped pendulum carrying a moving

SAMPLE (Template is used)

During the test, a white conditioned rubbing cloth would

A 25 x 25cm marked fabric sample is sent for washing (type of wash

Table 2: Other Testing Procedures followed at Arvind Mills, Ranchi

Force to pull the button out from fabric.

The fabric sample is stitched to make a seam required to be tested and

Standards of seam strength

3.2 Trims & Accessories Quality

II. Quality Issues

• To confirm the quantity

III. Quality Assurance Systems & Procedures

IV. Tools Required

V. Formats & Reporting Procedures

VI. Defect classification for audit

• Missed printing/wrong printing Major

VII. Analysis and Actions taken Procedures

Figure 1: Problems and Solutions of Defects in Trims

3.3 Cutting Quality

II. Quality Issues

III. Tools Required

• Checking table with sufficient light

IV. Quality Assurance System & Procedures

3.4 Sewing & Finishing Quality

II. Table inspection

III. Pre-final or lot pass inspection:

IV. Final inspection

1 Verifying Packing list comparing with P.O. sheet

2 Determining of lot size

3 Selecting of inspection severity level & sampling plan

7 Checking of Packing & packaging

8 Selection of sample randomly (sample packing)

9 Checking of garments Sample

10 Checking of measurement (Dimension)

Record and list all of the major or minor

13 Drawing of defective sample for reference

14 Filling up of Carton (If samples are ok)

15 Putting of Sticker & signature on carton

Data Analysis of Checker’s Calibration

Table 4: Marking Criteria

S No. Checkpoints Assembly Preparatory

Grading criteria for assembly and preparatory checkers:

Table 5: Grading Criteria