APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT

PEE EMPRO EXPORTS PVT LTD.

Bachelor Of Fashion Technology
(2016-2020)

ACADEMIC MENTOR: EFFORTS BY:

Mr. J Pari Aman Rizvi (BFT/16/352)
Asst. Professor Surya Pradhan (BFT/16/326)
NIFT Kolkata (SEM VII)

1
 DECLARATION

We hereby declare that the report titled ‘Apparel Internship’ at Pee Empro Pvt. Ltd.
submitted to National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kolkata is the original work carried
out by us under the guidance and supervision of Mr. J.Pari, Associate Professor, Dept. of
Fashion Technology, Kolkata as a partial fulfillment for the course curriculum.
All information included from other sources have been duly acknowledged.

Mr. J Pari Aman Rizvi

(Academic Mentor)

Surya Pradhan

2
 PREFACE
A fabric undergoes various transformations, before it is converted into a finished garment.
The transformations were carried out under various stages that include a variety of
processes.
The primary apparel processes are broadly classified into:
1. Merchandising
2. Production

Merchandising is considered to be the first step towards production of a garment.it deals

with the marketing and getting of orders from the buyers.
Production on the other hand is the next step after merchandising. Here, the actual
conversion of fabric into finished garment takes place.

A lot of other departments are also involved in the functioning of the apparel industry.
These department works as a support to the merchandising and production department.
These departments include sampling, industrial engineering, planning, quality,
maintenance, Research & development etc.

3
 CONTENTS
S. no. Topics Page no.
1. Acknowledgement 6

2. Objective of the Internship 7

3. Schedule for 14 weeks 8

4. About the company 9

5. Design 11

6. Merchandising 12

7. Sampling 24

8. Testing 35

9. Fabric 35

10. Embroidery 53

11. Trims & Accessory 57

12. CAD 60

13. Cutting 63

14. Production Planning and Control 80

15. Industrial Engineering 84

16. Research & Development 89

17. Production 94

18. Finishing 103

19. Packing 108

20. Quality Assurance 115

21. Washing 116

22. Maintenance 120

23. Effluent Treatment Plant 121

24. Plant Lyout 123

25. Projects

26. Project 1 – Production Process Audit 130

4
27. Project 2 – Traffic Light System 133

28. Project 3 – Skill Matrix of Checkers 147

29. Leaning experience 151

30. Conclusion 152

31. Annexures 153

5
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The opportunity of doing the Apparel Internship which National Institute of Fashion
Technology, Kolkata has given us the chance to explore the production process of
Garment manufacturing industry.
We thank Mr. Neeraj Kumar, general manager at Pee Empro and Mr. Shashank Singh,
our industry mentor, for guiding us throughout the processes and accepting our request to
learn as an intern at this prestigious industry.
It is with immense gratitude and pleasure that we acknowledge the support and help of our
academic mentor Mr. J Pari. His throughout consideration and sincere guidance helped
us covering us each and every topic and department for the successful completion of this
internship project and report.
It gives us great pleasure in acknowledging the support and help of our Course Co-
ordinator Dr. Abhijit Mukherjee, who constantly helped us in our internship.
Last but not least we deeply appreciate the guidance provided by the operators and the
employees at Pee Empro, Faridabad who were a helping hand at every next step.
Thank you Pee Empro Exports Pvt Ltd, Faridabad.

6
 OBJECTIVE OF THE INTERNSHIP
Institutional guidelines command that we comprehensively understand apparel processing
technologies and develop skills in production planning and control and for this purpose we
were aligned with and extreme organization like Pee Exports Pvt Ltd, Faridabad for a 14
weeks training period that extended from 27th of May to 1st September, 2019.
The objectives of internship is firstly to gain practical exposure and secondly application of
knowledge on real life projects and / or assignments.
This industry internship is aimed towards blending the class room principles with industry
application this internship also helps students to learn and improve their interpersonal
communication skills with colleagues, peer group and workers.

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 SCHEDULE FOLLOWED IN THE 14 WEEKS OF
APPAREL INTERNSHIP

Serial no. Date Department Supervisors

1. 27.05.19- 01.06.19 Company Mr.Shashank / Ms.
introduction / Shashi
Design
2. 03.06.19 – 08.06.19 Merchandising Ms.Neeti /
Ms.Monica
3. 10.06.19 – 15.06.19 Sampling Ms. Hema
4. 17.06.19 – 22.06.19 Fabric / Embroidery Mr. Vineet / Mr.
/ Trims Mohinder

5. 24.06.19 -29.06.19 Cutting / Cad Mr. Dilip / Mr.

Ganesh
6. 01.07.19 – 06.07.19 Planning / I.E Mr.Raju /
Mr.Jagdish
7. 08.07.19 – 13.07.19 R&D / Quality Mr.Vinay / Ms.Anju
8. 15.07.19 – 20.07.19 Production / Mr. Hashmi
Finishing
9. 22.07.19 -27.07.19 Packing Mr. Nanak
10. 29.07.19 – 03.08.19 Washing / Mr.Ganesh /
Maintenance / ETP Mr.Imran
11. 05.08.19 – 31-08-19 Project Mr.Shashank

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 ABOUT THE COMPANY
Pee Empro Exports Pvt Ltd renowned and respected since 1981. They utilize their own
fabric processing plant "Creative" for printing and dyeing, as well as their own schiffli
embroidery unit "Hemla" both of which empower them to claim vertical integration in the
manufacture of woven garments. The entire process is driven by in-house control through
to the shipped garment. Their hallmarks are timely delivery, value for money and precision
quality.
They have 3000 single needle sewing machines that are accompanied by state of the art
CAD's and CAM's, as well as 30 Tajima multi-head computer embroidery machines. Pee
Empro is fully equipped with washing units and in house testing labs to insure the best
product for their customers. Their capacity allows them to produce approx 8,00,000
garments per month while offering a 0.5 percent rejection rate, and turnover of over 70
million USD in revenue per annum.
CLIENT PROFILE
We work with some of the world’s most recognizable clothing brands.

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THE UNITS
Pee empro has 4 units namely unit 13, 12/2 , 78 and IMT.
The company has basically divided the work among the 3 units( 13, 12/2, 78,IMT is still
under development) according to their buyers
 Unit 13 – no.of lines is 13, total machines are 400 and the buyer whose work is
dealt over there are Abercrombie & Fitch and Hollister California.
 Unit 12/2 – no. of lines is 19, total machines are 600 and buyers are American
Eagle, Ann Taylor and Gap
 Unit 78- no. of lines is 25, total machines are 900 and buyers are Gap/ old navy,
Espirit, Anthropology.
GENERAL WORK OVERVIEW
The whole working of a particular order starts from the selection of the fabric for a
particular design by the buyer. They basically source their fabric from Surat. The fabric is
also sometimes developed based on the buyer inspiration. It is basically co- creation
between the buyer and the design team.
The next part involves the making of the sample. Samples are usually made in different
colors. Embroidery options and cost options are considered at this stage. At this stage
almost everything is fixed / closed from the buyers side. After sampling the merchandising
department plays a major role as they are involved in the making of the indent.
The PPC department plans everything – the production process. R&D makes 2 pcs
according to base size after which grading takes place followed by bulk production. Once
production is initiated the cutting, sewing, finishing and packing of the garments takes
place accordingly. Once production is completed and everything is found to be correct at
the time of audit, the final shipment takes place.

Pre-
Interaction Placing of Prototype
Production
with Buyer Order Approval
Meeting

Fabric
Raw Acquisition Size Set
Washing /
Material of Raw Sample
Charak/
Inspection Material Approval
Relaxation

Cutting,
Marker
Spreading Ticketing, Sewing
Making
Bundling

Garment
Finishing,
Shipment Packing Washing (if
Inpection
required)

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 DESIGN DEPARTMENT
Main purpose of this department is to innovate and create new designs based upon the
future demands. It doesn’t always mean creating entirely new designs and patterns but
sometimes it involves creating apparels based on the theme boards provided by the buyer
for upcoming season.
HIERARCHY OF DEPARTMENT

HEAD
DESIGNER

2 PERSON FOR
2 PERSON
2 ASSISSTANT HANDLING
HANDLING
DESIGNER INITIAL
FABRIC R&D
SAMPLING

THE WORKING PROCEDURE

The buyer gives the mood board according to which the design department designs the
garment taking inspiration from that board. They also seek help from the runway to find
out what is trending. They make sketches accordingly and get it approved from the
manager.
The design team also does the R&D of the fabric by coming up with new types of weaves.
The designing of the collection is basically a kind of co creation between the buyer and the
design team. The design team is responsible till the time the buyer confirms the order.

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 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
Merchandising is the interface between Buyer & Exporter. Merchandising department
handles the responsibility from order analysis to shipment. It co-ordinates with every
department of the factory and also with the buyer
Merchandising is the department which links marketing and production departments. It
carries out job of sample development, meeting the requirements of buyer and of the
production department. The merchandising section is responsible for deciding the cost of
the garment and negotiation on its part with the buyer related to design aspects, selling
price,delivery date etc. The merchandiser is a person whose responsibility is to execute
the orders perfectly as per the specifications.
Following are the main responsibilities of merchandisers
 Internal & external communication,
 Preparing internal order sheets,
 Preparing purchase orders,
 Advising and assisting production,
 Advising quality department about quality level,
 Mediating production and quality departments,
 Documentation

HIERARCHY OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

MERCHANDIS
ER HEAD

SENIOR
MERCHANDIS
ER

ASSISTANT
MERCHANDIS
ER

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 FLOW CHART

RECEIVE TECH PACK

COSTING

MOCK EMBROIDERY

FIT SAMPLE

CHECK IN QUALITY ANANLYSIS

SENT TO BUYER

BUYER COMMENT

SECOND FIT

COMMENTS

PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE

APPROVAL

OK FOR PRODUCTION

FILE PREPARATION

SIZE SET SAMPLE

APPROVED

PRODUCTION

DISPATCH

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DETAILED PROCESS ACTIVITIES OF THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
1. Order confirmation and follow up:
 This department is the main link between the factory and the buyers. The buyers
rely on the merchandisers to provide them with the information regarding the
capacity available, the style feasibility and the setting up of delivery dates for the
shipment.
 The merchandising team is divided buyer wise. For instance there are separate
team of merchandisers comprising of head , senior and assistant merchants for
each brand (buyer) such as GAP kids, GAP women, Abercrombie & Fitch, Hollister
California etc.
 This process involves receiving the initial order details from the buyer‘s
representative and communicating through E-mail and telephonic conversations.
 The merchandising team keeps the buyer updated about all the developments
taking place regarding the order.
 The order booking and the order confirmation details are received by the
merchandising team who further transfers this information to the other departments.
2. Preparation of BOM:
 The merchandising team receives the details of all the style features in the
particular order. This includes the following :

1. Fabric quality details

2. Thread Details
3. Finishing Details
4. Accessories like beads, sequins, laces etc
5. Prints and Embroidery
6. Trims like buttons, zippers
7. Wash care labels
8. Size labels
9. Brand label
10. Packing Material details

 Besides receiving this information from the buyer , the merchandisers also receive
the fabric consumption and the accessories requirement per garment for each size
from the sampling section , thread consumption per garment from the industrial
engineering department
 Based on this information received, the merchandiser prepares a Bill of material
(BOM). This has the complete details of the requirement of all the parts required in
making of the garment.
 This BOM is entered into the ERP software APS for access by the Purchase
Department.
 This BOM is used by the Purchase Department and the Fabric Sourcing
Department to order the materials as per the order quantity.

14
 Fig 1. BOM
SHEET

3. Preparation of time and action chart:

The department prepares a tentative Time and Action Calendar for the activities like
1. Size set approval date
2. Initial fabric yardage
3. Bulk fabric approval
4. PP sample submission
5. PP sample approval
6. Bulk sewing trims in house
7. Bulk packing trim
8. Bulk fabric in house
9. Fabric inspection
10. Marker Approval
11. PP Meeting
12. PCD
13. Shipment Sample
14. Final Inspection

15
  The planned and actual dates of the TNA are entered into the sheet as and when
the activities are carried out. Any deviations are looked into and the decisions are
made.
 The buyer representatives are also regularly updated about the developments on
the TNA and the order status.

4. Co-ordinating the sample development process:

 The merchandising department plans and coordinates the activities of the sampling
department. The sampling section is given the TECHPACK which contains all the
relevant details ,along with the fabric and trims which is supposed to be used by the
sampling department
 The samples are sent to the merchandising department for initial approvals
according to the spec sheet provided by the buyer. The samples are then sent to
the buyer for approvals only when they are approved by the merchandising
department.
 The sampling department is also informed by the merchandising team about the
types of samples required by the buyer.
 The merchandiser receives the buyer comments for all the samples and makes it
sure it is informed to the sampling and the necessary changes made in all the
required areas.

5. Getting approvals at different stages:
Fabric Approvals: In case of the nominated supplier the buyer suggest the supplier from
which the fabric is supposed to be procured. While in rest of the cases the factory decides
where to procure the fabric from and later sends that fabric for approval from the buyer
Yarn Dyed program: In case of yarn dyed order strike off has to be sent to the buyer for
color approval.
Solid dyed program: In case of solid dyed order lab dip has to be sent to the buyer for
color approval.
Printed fabric Program: In case of printed fabric order deskloom has to be sent to the
buyer for color approval.
Fabric Package Test: These are buyer dependent and mostly taken care by third party
labs. All the tests that are required by the buyer or the buyer's SOP [Standard Operating
Procedures] has to be passed.
Embroidery / hand work :Approval for thread color. Sequence color and quality
parameters are taken from the buyer.
Accessories Approval: All trims and accessories which are going in the garments are
approved by the buyer.

16
 Fig 2- The fabric samples are sent to the buyer. These are washed and
unwashed samples of the fabric sent for the approval of shade and hand feel

6. Tech-Pack
Techpack is the reference for each department whenever it comes to any information
about the buyer requirements. The buyer states all his requirements in a very precise
manner which is contained in this document. The following are the common details which
are found in the Techpack of all the buyers:
Quantity Details
 Size wise quantity
 Color Wise Quantity
 Destination wise quantity
 Dispatch dates for all the lots and the quantity for the lots
Style Details
 Style analysis report
 Style description
 Measurements
 Sketches
 Seam & Stitch details
Process sequence- listing out the order of the activities to be done i.e. cut, panel wash or
garment wash, panel print/embroidery or garment print/embroidery

17
 Fig 3 - Construction details given in the
techpack

Fabric details
 GSM of all the types of fabrics used in the garment
 Fabric construction
 Fibre types
 Fabric width
 Fabric/garment finish type and hand feel description
 Buyer nominated supplier (in certain cases)
Sewing details
 Stitch SPI for all the parts of the garment
 Stitch distance for all the seams e.g. distance of the top stitch, distance of bottom
hem from the bottom
 Single needle or double needle operation for all the seams
Sewing thread details
 Thread color
 Thread type
 Nominated supplier if any
Pattern details
 Measurement of ready garment at all the required areas
 Measurement of all the sizes
 Technical drawing of the garment is given in the Techpack.

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Accessories & Trims
 Nominated supplier if any
 Accessories that undergo certain test for them the quality standard is also
mentioned.
 Type and dimension of all the trims, e.g. length of the zipper, material of the zipper
(metal or plastic).
 Positioning of trims on the garment, mentioned in writing as well as explained
diagrammatically.
 Color of the trims
Description of the labels
 Text to be written on the labels is specified by the buyer.
 The font size and font style for the text on the labels
 The material of the various labels
 Types of labels required i.e. Wash Care Labels, size labes. brand labels
 Positioning of the labels on the garment with dimensions mentioned on a diagram
of the garment.

Fig 4.According to the description the labels are sent to the buyer for
approval

Finishing details

19
  Type of ironing to be done
 A mention about the finishing quality
 Labels and hangtags that are attached to the garment before packing
 Position of the attached hangtags and size labels on the garment
 Final look after packing.
 AQL level to be followed while inspection in the finishing section
Packing details
 Details regarding the type of packing material to be used
 Type of packing – prepack or bulk
 No. of garment in each poly bag
 Size of the poly bags and the cartons
 No. of packets to be kept in each carton.

7 . Pre-Production Meeting:
 The preproduction meeting shall be carried out before the commencement of the
pilot run to ensure the quality requirements are well understood by the all the
concerned
 The Pre-production meeting shall be conducted by the Plant manager after the
approval of size set, and before starting the Pilot run. And the proceedings are
recorded in the format for future reference
 Pre-Production meeting shall be carried out for all lots to ensure the availability of
material, Machineries, attachments and all relevant information.
 All the relevant information are presented by the respective departments as
detailed in the format.
 The meeting shall be attended by the members of the Manufacturing core Team
based on requirement.
 The core team comprises of Plant Manager, Technical Manager,Quality Assurance
Manageror Assistant Quality Assurance Manager , .Floor Manager Merchandiser&
PPC or SR. Merchandiser, Management Trainee - Merchandising, industrial
Engineers and technical Assistants of applicable floors and Floor incharge Cutting

20
 Fig 5- Pre production meeting
report

Records and formats required in the merchandising department

Sample Evaluation report:This report is maintained for all the samples evaluated and
inspected by the merchandisers. It has the records of all the comments and changes
suggested.
Internal Approval Swatch Card: This is a general Swatch Card which is used to attach
the fabrics used for the styles and orders after their approvals from the buyers

Fig 6 – Swatch Card

21
Sales Order Documentation: The merchandisers maintain a record of all the sales
orders raised for the procurement of all the materials for the order. One of the most
important jobs of the merchandiser is to follow up the status of the materials which have
been ordered, to ensure the timely availability of the materials to the production.
Consumption confirmation chart: This chart is made by taking the consumption details
from the sampling department for all the sizes in the style of the order. These consumption
details are obtained from the CAD markers.
Material Requisition: This format is filled up by the merchandiser and sent to the fabric
stores for requesting material for sample development. If the material is not available, the
fabric sourcing team is informed.

Sampling Job Order: This is a formal order raised to the Sampling department instructing
the quantity and types of samples to be made for the styles. The tentative date for sample
preparation is also mentioned.
Pre-Production Meeting Report: The Head Merchandiser conducts an PP Meeting. Here
all the details of the order booked are provided to the Factory. The PPM minutes are
maintained by each merchandiser for future reference in case of some discrepancies
arising in between the merchants and the factory. ( i.e. Production related departments)
Cost sheet of the style – the cost sheet containing the details of the fabric and trims used
in the garment along with their consumption quantity and price, and the final price of the
garment quoted by the factory

Fig 7 - Buyer cost sheet

Formats received by the merchandising department:

22
 Size set and pilot run reports: The size set and pilot run reports deal with all the points
worth listing for the garment. This includes the measurement details for all the
parameters as well as the quality tests according to the buyers' requirements.
 Tech Packs: The Tech packs are the guidelines provided by the buyer for the garment
construction . It is provided by the buyer to the merchandiser.
 Purchase orders: Purchase orders are a formal announcement of the order booked by
the merchandiser for the factory. This has all the details of the order quantity. shipment
dates and destination.
 Shipment details: The dates, mode of shipment, mode of payment. Letter of Credit
details and destination of shipment are provided to the merchandiser by the Dispatch
department.

23
 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
INTRODUCTION
 Sampling department works in co-ordination with the merchandising department. They
basically make samples to get the approval of the buyer and to finalize the style and
design before proceeding for bulk production.
 The work of the sampling department starts when the PD merchandising department
asks for the proto sample. The proto sample is the first sample that is made for any
style. It is according to the design given by the buyer, they may also present some
alternatives to the buyer, in terms of design, look.
 In sampling department the operator generally makes 3 pieces in a day whereas it also
depends upon the style .Average sample lead time is 7-9 days for a particular
stage of sampling but to complete the sampling stage to confirmation it takes 2
months approx.Depending on style complication the time may increase like if the
buyer demands some special color then the time is between 10-12 days.Average
time for sample response is 7-10 days after the sample reaches its destination like
USA or HONG KONG. For confirmation on orders it may take over t a month.

HIERARCHY OF THE SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

sampling
head

sampling quality pattern &

supervisor incharge fabric cutter

operator ironer

24
 SAMPLING PROCESS FLOW CHART

After receiving the program check all trims as per fill-up

requisition sheet

Submit the program to cutting section

Submit the program to cutting section

After receiving the cutting from cutting section and then check
cutting properly by stitching supervisor and then handover to
operator

After stitching submit pieces to Q.A

After receiving the pieces from stitching section, then check

all construction as per tech-pack and find out the any
defects, then finish the before wash measurement by Q.A
and then Submit the pieces to kaz button section if required

After finishing the kaz button then submit that

program to washing section if required

After receiving the pieces from washing section then

submit to pressing section

After receiving the pieces from pressing section, then

check measurement after wash and ready pieces as per
specs

25
WORKFLOW OF SAMPLING

tech-pack
received from
merchant

develop
patterns

Costing CAD Develop

marker sample

Develop
Fit/Proto
sample

Revise
fit/proto PP sample
sample

Revise PP Size set

sample sample

incorporate
buyer Sealer sample
comments

incorporate
Bulk
buyer
production
comments

26
 MACHINE TYPE AND NUMBER
Machine /Equipment type No.

Single needle lockstitch machine 52

Overlock machine(5 and 4 thread) 4

Kansai machine for smocking 1

Blind hem 1

Flatlock 1

Chainstitch 1

Pin tuck 2

Pressing table 6

NUMBER OF WORKERS

Work type No.

Tailors for SNLS 50
Tailors for special M/C 5
Pressing man 4
Supervisor 3
Expert Technician 1
QA person Buyerwise

27
SAMPLES OF A SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
 PROTO - Firstly the buyer provides the initial tech pack, according to which the proto
sample is made. This sample is made according to the base size provided by the
buyer. Since the costing of the garment also needs to be finalized at this stage
sometimes alternatives are also send to the buyer to get in into the cost that will be
accepted by the buyer. Also if sometimes what the buyer wants can’t be produced on
the production floor, they send a mockup along with what the buyer has asked. This
proto sample can be made on the substitute fabric provided the look and quality of the
substitute is nearly same as the original fabric.
 Lead Time – after merchant hands over the tech pack, fabric and trims to be the
sampling team, they have time of 3-4 days for the development of proto sample. After
that buyer takes a weeks time to give comments
 LA,QPR,LR - After giving comments on the proto sample the buyer asks for a Line
Adoption sample (LA Sample) which is also known as QPR (quarterly product review)
sample and LR (line review ) sample. 5 LA samples are made in 3-4 colorways. These
are made for the buyer, technician, buying house, design team and one for one’s own
factory.
 Lead Time – sampling team is given approx 7 days to make and submit the
LA/QPR/LR.
 FIT - The buyer after giving comments on the LA/QPR/LR asks for the fit sample to
finalize the fit of the garment. Depending on the buyer requirements second and third
fit can also be send to the buyer.
 Lead Time- The buyer gives a time period of 15 days to submit the first fit sample. Of
these 15 days,5-6 days are taken by the merchant to arrange for things and the rest of
the days are taken by the sampling department to make and submit the fit sample. In
case of second and third fit only a week’s time is given to submit the samples
 FPT & GPT - In between the FPT( Fabric Package test) and GPT (garment package
test) samples are also sent. These are made of the original fabric , trim etc.
 Lead Time – the sampling department is required to submit the pieces to the third party
for testing in 3-4 days after buyer asks for it.
 SEALER - In some cases the buyer also asks for a yellow tag sample, which is also
known as the sealer sample. This sample can also be made on the substitute fabric.
This is basically made for finalizing the pattern.
 Lead Time – 5-6 days are given for the submission of the sealer sample to either the
buyer or the buying house.
 PP - The last sample which is made before proceeding for production is the pre-
production sample (PP sample). It is also known as the green tag sample. Here the
actual fabric, trims, etc is used. This is basically used as a sample for production
department also.
 Lead Time – the sampling department is required to submit the pre-production sample
for the approval within 7days from the approval of the sealer sample.

THE DETAILS ATTACHED TO THE GARMENT SAMPLE

28
After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details
attached to it, with the help of the tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the
buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable)

Sample information Card

Date sent June 12

Autumn 12
Season
Product ID 1w2687

Size M

Description Black Swoop

Agent/vendor TSS

Factory PEE EMPRO

Count of origin India

Fabric BRFL2345
Content 70% / 40% p/c

Wash finish Normal

Paper Pattern received Y/N

Date Received June 14

Fitting Date June 15

Designer Ralph Lauren

29
Comment Date June 16
Status
1st FIT
2nd FIT
3rd FIT

30
THE PROCESS
The general procedure followed for any sample made in the sampling department is as
follows:

Fig 8

1.The pattern is received from the CAD department, in the form of big sheet. The
individual patterns are then cut out from sheet.

Fig 9

2.After the patterns are cut, the other operator places the patterns over the fabric provided
to them for sampling purpose, and cuts out the pieces accordingly.

31
 Fig 10

After cutting out the pieces they keep these patterns in the sampling department. They
keep it till the time bulk production is taking place for that particular style, in case the
production or cad team needs to look after the patterns again
3.After the pieces are cut the they are given to the respective operator for the production
of the particular sample, such as proto, LA, QPR, GPT,PP etc.

Fig 11
4.The operator is
provided tech

32
Fig 12
pack which is having construction details of the garment to be produced. A trained master
is also present who sometimes helps the operator in understanding of what is required
and what is supposed to be done if the operator fails to understand from the tech pack
provided.

The operator is also given the patterns along with tech pack, to have a better
understanding of the parts of the garment and also to check the measurements if
required anywhere.

Fig 13

Fig 14

In sampling department they have a board which comprises of information such as the
name of the operator who us making sample ,the machine on which he is making
sample, the style number, buyer, and most importantly the type of sample he’s making
whether it’s LA, GPT,LR, Fit etc and the quantity of that sample.

Fig 15

33
In sampling department they also maintain records on daily basis monitoring the work of
the operators working in sampling department. They maintain details such as the name of
the operator who is working, the style number he is working upon, the buyer he is working
for, the type of ample he is making, such as proto,gpt,pp ,fptetc ,the total quanity od that
particular sample he is supposed to make, the date and time at which work was given to
him and the date and time at which he completed the work, any loss time or any rework
that is to be done.

Fig 16

5.After making the sample they submit the pieces for inspection. Inspection here refers to
looking after the measurement and the construction details. The measurements are noted
down
6.After the samples are made, few of them are checked for the fit and measurement on the
dummy of the size as given in the tech pack. The construction details are measurement are
looked after here.
7.After inspection the samples are send for washing. For proto, Fit, LA samples normal
washing takes place where light softener is used. But in case of PP sample the washing card
given by the buyer. In this washing card the buyer specifies the washing procedure, the type of
drying, the softener, etc to be used
8.After wash, the pressing of the garment takes place
9.Now again the measurements are checked to see if there is any variations before and after
wash
10.The samples then go for final pressing before submitted for approval.

34
 TESTING DEPARTMENT
The testing department is concerned with performing different tests on the fabric. For the
FPT and the GPT test the testing is done by the third party. Only during the PD stage the
testing of the fabric is done by the in-house testing department.

The pH was tested using the following method:

KCL and 1 litre of water was taken to prepare the solution and 2 gram of cloth was taken.
They were rotated for about 2 hours. Then 1 litre of solution was taken with 100cc of the
above solution to find the pH.

For the button pull test the requirement is given in kg. For instance , the requirement for
the ladies or kids garment is 6-8 kg

For testing the washing fastness 1.5 litre of water is taken along with 750gm of chemical(
sodium perborate tetrahydrate ) and two 5 grams of fabric is taken.

They have 3 dryer and 3 washing machine . The capacity of washing machine is 6 kg and
it requires 25- 30 grams of detergent.

Various other tests are also performed by the such as the tear test, different forms of
colorfastness test etc.

35
 FABRIC STORE
Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
merchandise i.e. fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising
department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time
and cost.

HIERARCHY OF DEPARTMENT

STORE
MANAGER

STORE
INCHARGE

FABRIC
FABRIC QC
INCHARGE

FABRIC FABRIC LAB FABRIC

ASSISTANT HELPER ASSISTANT CHECKER

FABRIC ISSUE
The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on challan. All fabric are not issued at one go;
instead it is issued as required. The challan contains information regarding style no,
colour, buyer's name, and quantity to be issued and issued for which production unit.

36
 Flow chart

Receive program from merchant

Approval

Proceed for dyeing

Receive dyed fabric

Lab test of fabric

100% fabric inspection

Segregate checked unchecked fabric

Re-dyeing

Issue fabric to cutting section

37
 Manpower of fabric Stores

DESIGNATION MANPOWER

Store manager
1

Store incharge
1

Fabric incharge
2

Fabric assistant
2

Fabric helper 4

Lab assistant 1

Fabric QC 2

Fabric checker
6

FUNCTIONING OF FABRIC STORE

Once the raw materials or the fabric is been sent by the supplier to the company and once
they reach in-house the concerned person keeps the track of all the documents and
material, he/she checks the quantity of the material in-house and the material ordered and
cross checks i.e.. he checks the materials against invoice/ Packing list.

38
If we talk about the quality of the fabric for a particular style, normally the buyer proposes
the quality. At times the buyer specifies the price of the fabric for an order and they also
specify the source of procurement. In other cases the manufacturer's sources fabric once
the quality is approved. Fabric is sourced depending on the quality rates and delivery/lead
time of the order. Fabric is sourced at the best possible price range and is stored in the
factory's fabric storage area.
Generally greige fabric is sourced as per the order and then it is sent for processing.
Processing of fabrics is mostly done in the company's own dyeing and printing unit. The
factory has kept a large inventory of greige fabrics like cambric. Poplin, voile etc. .in the
fabric store which can be used at any time as per the order. Inspection of the fabric is
carried out using the 4 point system of fabric inspection. The store uses software APPS
that keeps a record of all the information about the fabric that comes in the store and that
is issued out to the cutting department.
PROCESS FLOW FOR ORDERING OF FABRIC

Development
- Buyer Specifics fabric quality and specifications
- Recluirements of designers

APPROVAL OF QUALITY
(COUNT , CONSTRUCTION , LOOK , HAND FEEL ) through lab dips , strike offs and

Quality selected

Fabric ordered
.

39
 PRICE NEGOTIATIONS WITH SELECTED VENDOR

Take quotations from all the vendors

Check past records for quality of vendors in case of similar

prices being offered

Price negotiations with selected vendor

Approval from

Order placed

STORAGE
The store has been divided into two sections. Greige fabric store and dyed fabric store.
Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in two areas:
 Checked fabric and
 Unchecked fabric.
Such system maintenance of the store makes it easy to locate the fabric whenever
needed in future
FOUR POINT FABRIC INSPECTION SYSTEM
The four point system has received the widest acceptance in both the textile and garment
industry.it is simple to understand and execute
The amount to inspect is 100 % of the total fabric received

40
DEFECT CLASSIFICATION
The four point system classifies defects as follows
Length / size of defect points
3 “ OR LESS 1
OVER 3 “ and less than 6 “ 2
Over 6 “ and less than 9 “ 3
Over 9 4

Major defects that are encountered are:

1. Weaving defects
2. Dyeing (patta. center selvage. streaks)
3. Prints (print repeat. pattem/ design, choke ups) etc.

A maximum of four points is charged to one linear yard. In this system the length of the
defect is measured to determine the penalty points. The four-point system provides for the
evaluation of the fabric on either a linear yard or square yard basis. As the fabric with
more width, will have more area. Or we can say that a 72" wide fabric will have twice the
area when compared to a 36” wide fabric. As the area of the fabric is more. this is obvious
that the fabric will contain twice the number of defects.
Formula for calculating the number of defect points per hundred square yards:
Defect points per hundred square yards = Total defect poims found x3600 /Fabric width
(inch) fabric length (yard)
When rolls are checked according to this system and points are calculated. This again is a
matter of agreement with buyer's c|othing manual. Some buyers working on low price
prints can accept fabric with DHU as high as 40-44 points. On the other hand it is like:
1) 20-25 points Acceptable with most buyers
2) 25 & above 35 Discussed with buyer & decided.
3) 35 & above Nomally considered as reject.
Accepted rolls of fabric are then sent to the cutting room.

41
INSTRUCTIONS FOR SHADE SEGREGATION AT FABRIC STORE

Cut 1 meter from each roll

Segregate cut piece into family of

Send one half for washing and retain another half

After receiving the washed pieces organize the pieces as per the family of

Prepare shade band and send to merchant for approval

NO

Are shade Inform the merchant

band and reject the rolls
YES

Give one unwashed color continuity card to cutting and sewing and one card
to finishing and FSA

Cut the Pcs in A5 size and make 4 color continuity card each for washed and
unwashed

End

42
THE WOKING OF THE FABRIC INSPECTION AND STORAGE :
Process flow of the fabric department

Sample or lab dip Approval or

Receive file from according to amendments
merchant specification

Send to hemla for If embroidery or

embroidery or dyeing/printing is Fabric in-house
creative for required first inspect starts
dyeing/printing the whole lot of fabric.

Receive fabric
from the Inspection of the
embroidery or fabric again
dyeing/printing unit

Process flow of the inspection of fabric

inspection for
if no major problem, do the
shrinkage,
10% of each lot of 100% inspection of each
colorfastness,
fabric inspected roll/bundle accd. to 4 point
crocking,defects
inspection system

storage of fabric- loting of fabric accd

checked, rejected to shade

43
 Fig 17

Once the order is confirmed the fabric order indent is created. This sheet basically
contains the no. of sizes and the no. of pieces to be produced in each size. Accordingly
the meters of fabric required is calculated by taking out the average consumption of fabric
for one garment, multiplied by the total no. of garments. Here the 5% of cutting wastage is
also added and then the total meters of fabric required is calculated. Along with the no. of
pieces to be produced we also take into account the pieces for sampling purpose.

Fig 18

44
The manager of the fabric store has dates regarding the departure of fabric from the
supplier’s factory and the arrival of the fabric at one’s own factory. Accordingly he is
informed from the supplier’s side whether the fabric has left from that factory at the
scheduled date or not. If due to some problem the fabric fails to depart from the supplier’s
unit, the manager of the pee empro factory informs to the planning department that there
will be delay in the arrival of fabric so they should plan accordingly.
There is always a time gap of 7 days between the departure and arrival of the fabric.
Once the fabric reaches the manufacturing unit, a list is provided from the supplier which
contains the item description, the roll and bundle number, net weight and gross weight, no.
of meters of fabric , no. of rolls/bundles and the total meters of fabric.
During the time of unloading of the fabric, the person responsible checks the bundle/roll
number written on the fabric against the one provided in the supplier sheet.
During the time of length inspection the operators checks the length of the fabric against
the ones provided on the sheet, and write about variation if any so that it can be informed
to the supplier accordingly.

Fig 19

Every roll or bundle contains a sticker on top that contains information such as roll no.,
style no. , the fabric type.

The supplier usually sends the fabric in lots, rather than all at the same time. Each lot
contains vary number of rolls or bundles. From every lot that arrives 10% is inspected for
shrinkage, color fastness and centre selvedge variation. From those selected rolls, 1

45
metre of fabric is cut. This 1 metre of fabric is divided into 60cm for shrinkage,20cm for
CSV, 20 cm for fastness. The company accepts 3% shrinkage in the fabric. If the
shrinkage is more than 3% in these selected 10% then 100% of the fabric is inspected.

Fig 20

The shrinkage report gives information regarding the variation in the fabric dimension
before and after wash. The worker responsible takes the 60cm of fabric and marks points
at a distance of 50cm both in the warp and weft direction. The points are marked at the
extreme left and right and also at the centre. Before and after measurements are written
and an average of the three values, left, right and middle is atken to get the average
shrinkage in the fabric. If this shrinkage is less than or equal to 3% then it is accepted
otherwise the higher authorities are informed to look into the matter accordingly.

46
4 POINT INSPECTION

This worksheet is basically for carrying out the 4 point inspection. Towards the top of the
page it stores information regarding the fabric supplier, buyer, style number, fabric quality
and fabric color. The next column contains information regarding the fabric quantity
received in that particular lot, the receiving date and the inspection date.
Towards the middle part of the page the actual defect number is calculated. It consists of
the roll/bundle number that is inspected, the metres of fabric in that roll/bundle, the length
– whether 1m = 100 cm or not because most of the time it is less i.e 1m= 98cm or so; the
width of the fabric in inches as well as centimeter. Various types of defect that can be
found in a particular fabric is mentioned on the sheet and each defect is having 2-4
columns with each column containing points that should be allotted for that particular
defect according to the 4 point inspection system. The checker inspects the whole
bundle/roll and keep on marking the defect points if any. At the end total point is calculated
for that particular roll/bundle.
At the end after completing the inspection of all the rolls in that lot they add all the points
and then with the help of the formula calculate the points per 100 sq yard. If this value
comes less than 20 it is accepted otherwise the matter is reported to concerned officials.
Here along with the 4 point inspection they also check for the bowing and CSV(centre
selvedge variation) in the fabric.

47
INSPECTION OF FABRIC

Fig 22

The fabric arrives in one of the two forms:

 Roll
 Bundle

Roll fabric
The roll fabric is inspected on this slant table as shown in the above image. The operator
checks for the defects in the fabric as it passes on this table. A roller is placed on the slant
table beneath which the fabric passes. The roller measures the length of the fabric. The
width and defect is measured manually by the operator.
Bundle fabric
The bundle fabric is inspected for width and defects on flat table as shown in the image
below. The operator pulls the fabric from one end of the table to the other end. The width
here is basically measured after every 4-5 metres. Selvedge to selvedge and centre to
selvedge variation is also checked.

48
 Fig 23

The length of the bundle fabric is checked by hanging the fabric in between the clips as
shown below.

Fig 24
Here the distance between the any two extreme clips is 100cm. By hanging the fabric here
, it is also checked whether the 1m is equal to 100cm or not. While hanging if there is too
much tension in the fabric it is found that 1m is generally less than 100cm.

49
THE STICKERS ON FABRIC AFTER INSPECTION

Fig 25

After inspection of the fabric the stickers are pasted on the inspected fabric which
indicates different meanings. For instance if no defects or faults are found then the fabric
is given green sticker which indicates that fabric is good to be issued for further work . The
pink sticker is given when that particular fabric contains 40-60 defect points. This sticker
indicates that the fabric is cut with wastage, so the marker should be planned accordingly.
The orange sticker is given when the fabric contains more than 60 defect point and is not
acceptable. In other words that particular fabric is rejected. The yellow sticker usually
symbolizes that the work on the fabric (basically inspection) is kept on hold due to various
reasons.
During inspection of the fabric if stains are at small areas, it is usually rectified. They use
the following chemicals to remove stain:
 Tpol – basically for white fabric
 Runkard
 Emyl

50
 Fig 26

During the time of inspection a small part of fabric from each roll/bundle is torn which is
later used to create shade lots of fabric. The shade lotting is done manually by the
operator

Fig 27

51
 Fig 28

After the fabric is inspected and shade lot made it is stored in the checked fabric area.
The rolls are inserted in the roll holder whereas the bundles are kept in these shelves.

52
 EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
Embroidery department is a department which comes into role only when desired by a
particular style. Pee Empro majors in dealing with garments having schiffly embroidery.

Schiffly
Embroidery

Fig 29

Embroidery takes place with the help of the machines. Both schiffly as well as normal
thread embroidery is done on the rolls of cloth.

Thread
Embroidery

Fig 30

The merchandiser gets the artwork approved by the buyer. After this the artwork is
transferred to embroidery department. The details given to the team are as follows:-
 Style number
 Total length and width of the design

53
  Repeat size
 Type of thread and needle to be used
 Placement of design

The design is developed by the CAD department which is the loaded on the computerized
embroidery machine. Stitching as well as embroidery threads are used . The needle is
changed according to the type of material on which embroidery is taking place.

Fig 31 - The embroidery machines are 21.5meter

in length and it can do embroidery on the fabric
for 20.3 meter.

The embroidery machine is divided into 8 sections which helps in the detection of a broken
thread. The machine holds the embroidery thread in the bars provided below. In case of
schiffly embroidery along with the needle a blade is also near to a needle whose function
is cut the fabric at the right position where schiffly embroidery needs to take place.

54
 The thread reels are
held here
Fig 32

The needle then

stitches around The blade
the cut part. here cuts the
fabric at right
position

Fig 33

55
 The numbers here indicate
the different section of the
embroidery machine. It is
divided into 8 sections. The
light here shows that
everything is working
properly whereas the
numbers whose lights are off
indicates the broken thread

Fig 33

Fig 34

Here the lace is made with the help of threads that revolve on the circular machine

56
 TRIMS & ACCESSORY DEPARTMENT

The basic function of the trims and accessories department is to stock buttons, laces.
trims and other related accessories. The stock is let out depending upon the order and the
requirement of the merchandising/sampling or production department.
There are 13 workers working in the trims and accessory department.

BASIC PROCEDURE FOR RECEIPT OF GOODS AT THE ACCESSORIES STORE IS

AS FOLLOWS:

Marketing prepares
BOM (Bill of The entries are feed These entries are
Materials) when in APPS reflected in purchase
order is finalized

According to the
delivery date
Accessories are material is sought Sourcing is done on
received at (Average lead ) time the basis of costing
accessory store. is 20 days before given by marketing
PCD i.e. planned
out date)

THE WORKFLOW
The workflow is quite lucid here. First the department that needs a particular material fills
up a requisition slip for the same, It is then forwarded to the store's manager who then
approves the demand depending upon the availability.

57
 Fig 35

Here in this requisition sheet they specify the buyer name for whose style it is required, the
name of the trims or accessory they want and their quantity. This is applicable only in case
of requisition placed from the merchandising or sampling department.
In case of requisition from the production department a proper challan is to be issued.

DIFFERENT TRIMS AND THEIR LEAD TIME

1. Threads- 99 % is supplied by Coats and 1 % by Vardhaman
Lead time – 7 days
2. Labels & tags – 100% nominated
Lead time – 12-15 days
3. Zipper – concealed and metallic
Lead time – 21 days
4. Elastic – knitted and woven
Lead time – 10-12 days (for less than 25mm)
5. Fusing – woven and knitted
Lead time – 10-12 days
6. Buttons – Quantity is mentioned in gross

58
 Lead time – 10-12 days
7. Hangers ,sizers, polybags – Supplied by Mainetti (Chennai)
Lead time – 25-30 days
(Sizer only purchased for the buyer GAP)

Lead time for every trim is maximum of 20 days if order is placed on time i.e approval is on
time.
Also while purchasing the trims, they order 2% extra.

59
 CAD DEPARTMENT
Computer Aided Design. CAD department is responsible for making of the digitized
patterns for sampling and digitized markers for bulk cutting. They also make embroidery
patterns as well do 3D sampling
WORKING STAFF :-
Designation No. of people

Head 1

Pattern masters 4

Embroidery design 2
master

Grading 4

3D sampling 1

WORKING OF THE DEPARTMENT

Sampling - For making the pattern for proto samples they have 24 hours to make and
submit the pattern to the sampling department. In a day they have to make 4-5 patterns.
Pattern is made according to the buyer specification.
During the submission of LA sample the pattern might change, so they are required to
make the changes accordingly.
They use brown paper for making the patterns for sample

Fig 36

Production – For the making of the marker for the bulk production they get the instructions
from the R&D department. R&D department informs them about the changes in the

60
patterns due to any occurrence of the shrinkage. Accordingly CAD department required to
make the marker.
They use white paper for making of the marker.
Patterns on both the paper contains information such as the part name, size of that
particular part (s,m,l etc), and the measurement of that part.

Fig 37

Software used:-
 Pattern making – OPTITEX

 Grading – GERBER

 3D sampling – OPTITEX

 Cutting (Bulk Production) – LECTRA

They use two kinds of pattern paper;-

 Brown paper for sampling – 170 gsm

Fig 38
61
 White paper for Bulk production – 20 gsm

Fig 39

62
 CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Cutting is a process of separating parts from the fabric as the pattern pieces in the marker
for assembly operations. This is carried out in the cutting room-an area, which normally
indicates the activities of marker planning, spreading and preparation for sewing as well as
being used to refer to actual cutting of garment parts from the lay. Marker planning is done
in the CAD room.
Garments are cut in bulk simultaneously for which a lay is created; with a number of plies
spread one above another. The marker from CAD is fixed over the lay and it is cut with
help of powerful electric cutters, or CAM m/c following the lines of the patterns. The main
objective of the cutting department is to cut the parts accurately and economically and in
sufficient volume to keep the production units supplied with work.

The cutting department supplies cut parts for two major operations given below:
1. Firstly when there is a pilot run production for a smaller quantity say about 150 - 500
pieces.
2. Secondly during the mass/bulk production.

HIERARCHY AT THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT

cutting
manager

cutting
cutting QA supervisor
master

assistant fusing
layerman sticker helper bundle
QA operator

checker

63
ISSUING OF FABRIC
In order to issue fabric to the cutting department a basic procedure is followed:
Firstly a lot master is made by the fabric department which consists of the data of the
different shade lots created.next the cutting department makes a lot cut , which is
basically asking for a specified quantity of fabric against the lot master created.the fabric
store then issues the fabric against the lot cut.

Fig 40

The fabric store while issuing a fabric to the cutting department issues a challan. The
challan contains information as to which bundle or roll is being used and how much
quantity is being used, and to which lot that particular roll or bundle belong to.
MARKER MAKING
 The markers for the purpose of cutting are made by the CAD department. This
marker is made keeping in view the costing average quoted by the merchant to the
buyer. In case patterns have been made manually, the patterns are digitized to
transfer them to the system and then a marker is made.

 In case of CAM cutting, marker is sent to the cutting floor in floppy and in case of
manual cutting, actual size marker is obtained through the plotter available.
SPREADING - LAYERING THE FABRICS
Fabric spreading is very important part of the production process because it is basic for
obtaining a high quality final product. Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of
fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of a garment. The
number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number of garments desired and the fabric
thickness. Both manual and machine spreading method is being used.
Fabrics that are more difficult to handle are generally cut in thinner stacks.
Spreading and cutting is smooth laying of fabric in superimposed layers or plies of
specified length. The cutting marker is laid on the topmost layer. The maximum cutting

64
width is the usable fabric width minus selvedge or needle marks. Fabric utilization is the
amount of fabric actually utilized in the marker as the percentage of the total fabric area.
Ideal Lay height for cutting

Fabric weight Woven

Knits

Heavy Weight 4-5" 3-4“

Mid Weight 3-4" 3-2.5”

2-2.25”
" Light Weight 2.5-3”

Different Spreading modes are as follows:

 Nap one way/ face one way
 Nap one way/ face to face
 Nap either way/ face one way
 Nap either way/face to face
The spreading mode used here is :
Nap one way/ face one way
NAP refers to the direction of the fabric design or the grain of the fabric whichever
applicable for the given style of garment and type of fabric. While spreading fabric in this
mode the nap of each layer is being kept in one running direction and the face is kept in
one direction either up or down. Used for fabric where the direction of the fabric length
wise cannot be changed and doesn't have similar right and wrong side.
Nap one way / face to face
Herein the nap of the fabric is kept in one direction of each layer of the lay but the adjacent
layers are kept face to face.
Nap either way / face one way
Nap of the fabric can be kept in opposite directions but the face of the fabric is being kept
in one direction while spreading.
Nap either way / face up down
Used for plain fabric which is similar on both the sides.

65
PEE EMPRO EXPORTS PRIVATE LTD uses both manual and machine spreading. It has
one lectra spreading machine with fabric cutter attached to it.

Fig 41

The most used spreading mode is nap one way face one way for both the manual and
machine spreading. In the manual method of spreading either scissor is being used as
cutting tool after spreading each layer or in few cases they have a portable circular knife
placed at the end of the table to cut the fabric.

Fig 42

The computer machine attached to the lectra spreading machine contains the marker plan
and other information like: the overall speed of the knife while moving from one point to
another, the cutting speed of the knife during the cutting of the layers. It also displays
information such as how many meters have been cut and how many are left, the spent
time in cutting and the remaining time.

66
 Fig 43

Here for the purpose of spreading the checked fabric they use laser. The laser helps in
positioning the fabric, i.e here it helps in matching the stripes or checks.

Fig 44 - Laser light

Fig 45 - Manual
spreading

67
Fig 46 - Manual cutting

68
PROCESS FLOW OF CUTTING DEPARTMENT

CUT ORDER PLAN FROM PPC

MINI MARKER GENERATION

INSPECTION OF MINI
MARKER

MARKER GENERATION

CUTTING PROJECTION PLANNING-

PLAN BASED ON FABRIC AVG

MERCHANT CONTACT FABRIC

STORE & FABRIC SUPPLIER IF
FABRIC AVG IS MORE THAN
CALCULATED AVG

BASED ON DAILY CUT PLAN ISSUED

FROM STORE & MARKERS RECEIVED
FROM CAD

SPREADING / LAYERING

MARKER IN-PROCESS INSPECTION

CUTTING BY STRAIGHT KNIFE

IN-PROCESS CUT PART INSPECTION

NUMBERING / STICKERING
FUSING

PANELS INSPECTION

69
 INSPECTION
FUSING
PARTS CHANGE FROM END BITS
STRENGTH

RELAYERING
BAND KNIFE CUTTING

STICKERING

BUNDLING

STORAGE

DISPATCH FOR SEWING

70
FACTORS INVOLVED IN CUTTING FABRICS
Factors affecting the cutting process for fabrics are as follows:
 Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill etc.)
 Thickness of fabric.
 Design characteristics of finished garment.
 Machines and tables used.

Sewing Mc. Make model No. of Mc.

Straight knife Eastman blue streak II 4

Band knife Eastman EC 900 N 1

End cutter (circular cutting) Eastman EC 3 4

Vacuum table NGAISHING NS-3602 1

Flat bed fusing Hp-450 CS 2

Machine specification
Band knife cutter
Model: Eastman EC-900N

Cutting capacity: 180 mm

Table size: 1500 x 2100 mm

Table height: 720-790 mm

Arm length: 900 mm

Variable speed: 570-1440 m/min

71
 Motor: AC 220V 750W 1-phase

Blower motor: AC 220V 125W 1-phase

Knife dimensions: 0.45 x 10 x 3960 mm

Fig 47 - Band knife cutting machine

STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTER

MODEL : Eastman Blue Streak ll Class 629 X

Cutting capacity:
4.5 inch

Motor:
AC 220V 60 Hz 1-phase

Blade size: 8 inch

Weight: 15.4 kg

72
 Stroke: 1.25 inch

Torque:
0.63 kgf~cm

RPM: 17,000

Blade type; Straight

FUSING MACHINE

Model : HASHIMA HP-450CS

Power supply: Single phase

Motor: 40W

Rated output: Heater: 4500W

Fusing width: 450mm

Pressure: Max . 5.0 kg/cmz

Temperature: Max. 200°C

Heating time : 5min 20 sec

1660 x 880 x 460mm

Dimensions:

73
Net weight: About 152 kg

Fig 48 - FUSING MACHINE

74
BULK CUTTING PROCESS

(A) Solid cutting

The lay is cut with help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or CAM m/c.
The machine is moved manually through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker
and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of fabric progressively. Notches are also added.
For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting
machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device which cuts the fabric as it is passed
across the blade. In band knife cutting machine the blade is at one position whereas the
block to be cut is moved around it .
The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.

(B) Block cutting

Jacquard, stripes and checks are not being spread with spreading machine due to
requirements of matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and
checks are spread and cut in single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a
time matching the strips with those in the previous plies. Then blocks are cut out from this
spread for specific number of pieces. The size of the block is dictated by the CAD room
itself, which sends a mini marker for the cutting of the blocks from the lay and the
placement of the patterns on the blocks. Accordingly the cut blocks are manually marked
on top with marking chalk and using hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are
aligned to match the stripes and rough cutting of the fabric following the markings of the
patterns is done. The cut shapes are again checked for alignment and the stripes
superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to finish the pattern.

Cutting of stripped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The Wastage involved
is also more due to cutting in two stages.

Match Match
Spread Mark blocks

Final precise Match Cut Mark

patterns patterns
shaping of
patterns

75
Sorting and ticketing
Pieces cut from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one garment
size are brought together. It is very important to take care that the pieces cut from two
different bolts( bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are
can be shade variations. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of
marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification.
The workers secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using the ticket gun as
he flips over the cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle no ., piece no. and serves
as important means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to the
end .

TICKETING PROCESS FLOW

NEW STYLE
INFORMATION

REVIEW THE STYLE

DECIDE THE
STICKERING GUM AS
PER THE FABRIC

TO ENSURE SERIAL
NO. AS PER ORDER
WISE AND SIZE WISE

CUTTING RECEIVING

STICKERING

CHECKING AND PASS

BUNDLE

PASS

ISSUE TO FURTHER
PROCESS

76
 Fig 49
Here the operators are doing the ticketing on the cut panels. They have a machine that put
stickers on the cut parts. The sticker contains information such as the size, cut panel
number.

Fig 50- The sticker on the

garment after ticketing

77
 FUSING PROCESS FLOW

NEW STYLE INFORMATION

TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE

ANALYSIS

CHECK THE FUSING PART SHRINKAGE

SAMPLE FUSING (SIZE SET)

APPROVAL FROM MERCHANT

FUSING PLACEMENT APPROVAL FROM

PRODUCTION UNIT AND MERCHANT

FUSING MARKER PLANNING, REQUEST

AND RECEIVING

FUSING PROCESS (PLACING ON GMT &

FEEDING IN MACHINE

THERMO STRIPLE TEST

ON-LINE CHECKING

BUNDLING

ISSUE TO LINE

78
CUT PANEL CHECKING
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual
piece for any objectionable faults. Panels may have faults like wrong grain line
inappropriate size, incorrect shape and any fabric detects like holes cuts ,shade variations
et, that do not lie within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay.
A cutting component check report is filed for the total quantity cut, checked and approved.
The rejected pieces are sent back and equal no of fresh panels are separately cut ,
replaced in the set and ticketed with the same no. as the rejected ones . Other faults that
can be rectified are marked with an alteration stickers and passed on, these will be
spotted out during garment finishing or washing.

Bundling
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using
ties. The size of the bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each
bundle will contain pieces of same style and same size only. The cutting department
issues the amount required by the production department when asked for.

Bundling plan for a new style

SL.NO PIECES QUANTITY BUNDLE MAKE

2 pcs
1. Up to 200 pcs

5 pcs
2. Up to 500 pcs

After 500 pcs.

3. As per line requirement

79
 PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL
Production planning and control involves generally the organization and planning of the
manufacturing process. Specifically, it consists of the planning of the routing, scheduling,
dispatching and inspection, co-ordination and the control of materials, methods, machines,
tooling and operating times. The ultimate objective is the organization of the supply and
movement of materials and labor, machine utilization and related activities, in order to
bring about the desired manufacturing results in terms of quantity, time and place.
HEIRARCHY IN DEPARTMENT

Head

4 assistant
planners

Functioning of the Department

The planning team is involved in the whole production process right from the order
booking to the execution stage.
Depending upon the delivery date required by the buyer the team segregates the order as
fast, chase and regular order.
 Fast order have lead time of 45 days only. Here they submit only 1 sample (either
fit or pp sample). They don’t accept any change in style from buyer’s side. Without
GPT cutting can proceed.
 In chase orders thy have lead time of 75 days. Here they submit 2 fit sample and 1
PP sample with all the testing (FPT and GPT)
 For regular orders they have a lead time of 90 or more days. Here they submit up to
3 fit and 1 PP sample with all testing.(FPT and GPT)

Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and they inform
the merchants if the company is capable of producing the particular style in the given span
of time and also helps them to know the capacity of the production floor.
After getting the confirmation for the order, the planning department then calculates and
plans the PCD (Plan Cut Date and prepares the rest of the schedule for the activities.The
planning department takes the approval sheets and conducts a meeting with other

80
 departments to come up with a proper planning and scheduling dates for the particular
style.
Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity
based on the garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of
components in the garment, type of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment,
types of machines required to finish the garment, any specialized machine is required or
not for the manufacturing of the garment, difficulties involved during stitching of the
garment if it is a complicated style and structure, the skill level required for the various
operations of the garment and the ratio of the operators with respect to their skill levels
required for manufacturing the particular garment for all the operations all together. Then
they finally come to a conclusion about planning entire style. .
Also when the activities don’t go as planned they need to be ready with an alternative plan
to execute the order

Start

Provide details to the respective units

on PCD, order quantity & sample

On receiving the orders, allocate the

same to units based on line
availability

Confirm the above Confirm in consultation

Take inputs from IE on
details given to with the departments
productivity based on
concerned units in involved in the process
garment analysis
consultation with GM

Confirm order plan with

merchandising team

81
Provide report to management every
fortnight

Planning follow up with factory till

order execution

End

82
 PPC WORKS WITH CO-ORDINATION TO VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS

Quality
I.E

Trim store
R&D

Merchandising PPC Finishing

Sewing
CAD & section
Cutting

Fabric store

83
 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT:

Industrial Engineering is concerned with design, improvement and installation of integrated

system of people, material, equipment and energy. It draws specialized knowledge in
mathematical, together with principles and method of engineering analysis and design to
specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems.
The Industrial Engineer not only does the time study and capacity study ,he also develops
the line plan keeping in mind the constraints such as availability of machines . He tries to
identify the problem areas and tries to smoothen the material flow. He also helps in
making the operation easy by providing the operator with some work aid or attachments
and thus actually help in reducing SAM and the throughput time of the garment being
produced.

HIERARCHY OF THE IE DEPARTMENT

1 senior IE, 4 junior IE (1 junior IE is responsible for every 5 lines),10 data entry operator(1
for 2 lines)

IE HEAD

JUNIOR IE

DATA ENTRY
OPERATOR

84
Process Flow at the IE department

 Once they received the sample from merchants the IE does the sample analysis
and workout operation bulletin
 Operational bulletin contains the type of machine , Manpower requirement , time
taken for each operation , targets/ hour/Operation
 Based on the Operation Bulletin machine and manpower allocation is confirmed
with the available resources.
 If it is OK line plan is drafted.
 Once the line is set as per the plan, the IE department verifies the actual production
against the target and finds out reasoning for low production.
 Based on the reality the IE shall suggest for improving the productivity by balancing
machines and manpower.

OPERATION PERFORMANCE BOOSTING

Time recorded for pick, position, sew, dispose
Method
1. Observing and noting the time for 15 minutes
2. Reading taken in seconds (900 seconds)
3. Observe how many times the operation is repeated in 900 seconds and note down
time of every operation.
4. The number of times that operation was repeated in 15 minutes multiplied 4 gives
the hourly production.

IE ROLE FOR EVERY STYLE

At the PD merchandising stage after the samples are made for the approval of the style
they are sent to the IE department for thread consumption (OB). The operation breakdown
is done by the IE persons.
At the sampling stage , the IE department gives the costing sam ,which is the price at
which garment price is finalized with the buyer.
Along with giving the costing sam the IE also performs the risk style assessment of the
garment
After the order is confirmed from the buyer’s side and the sealer sample is approved from
the buyer. The IE department is required to the operation breakdown and plan the line
layout using the sealer sample. At this stage the initial sam for the garment is calculated.
After the production is started, final sam is calculated by IE on the day the highest
efficiency is achieved.

85
Fig 51 Style risk assessment
sheet

Fig 52 - Thread consumption

sheet
86
Fig 53 - Operation breakdown sheet

Fig 54 - Line layout plan

87
 Start

Receipt of sample

Sample
Analysis

Operation bulletin Not

Ok

Resource Analysis
(Machine and Manpower)

Ok

Line Plan

Implementation Needs any change

in operation
depends on

Review

Ok

End

88
 R&D DEPARTMENT
Research and Development
The R&D department is a department which is basically responsible for the technicality of
a garment. Their basic activity is to ease out the work of the production department by
making garment pieces and finding out the various issues involved that can be a
hindrance in the smooth production flow.

Fig 55 - R&D
DEPARTMENT

The department consists of the following people

Designation No. of people

HOD 1

Pattern master 2

Cutting operator 1

Head tailor 1

Tailors 4

Measurement checker 1

Helper 1

89
THE WORKING PROCEDURE

Fig 56 - R&D department has a board where they write everything about the
ongoing styles in their department. The style no., buyer, date of file receiving, tech
pack receive date, date of making 2 pc, size set etc.

The number and the type of machines used in the department are as follows:-

Type of M/C Number

5 thread overlock 1

4 thread overlock 1

Binding machine 1

Machine having
1
folder attachment

SNLS 5

The working of the R&D department starts after the file is handed over from the PPC to
the R&D department. The R&D is given 5-6 days to work on a particular style.
The procedure starts by making of 2 garment pieces of base size. Here the R&D
department is given the sample (usually PP sample) for reference along with the patterns
that were used by the sampling department. They make 2 piece of base size
measurement.

90
 Fig 57 - TRACING OF PATTERNS FOR MAKING 2PC AND SIZE SET

Fig 58

Both the pieces are sent for washing along with a cut out piece of the original fabric (which
is basically sent from the fabric store). Before and after wash measurements are noted for
both the garment and the fabric. If there are any variations i.e if shrinkage occurs then the
R&D department revises the pattern accordingly. If patterns are changed due to shrinkage
or other issues , the CAD and cutting department are informed about the changes.

91
 Fig 59

Fig 60 - 1 helper from the R&D department writes the measurement in Hindi using the tech
pack given by the buyer. These are then used by the R&D operators and the production line

92
After the percentage of shrinkage in the garment/ fabric has been identified, the R&D
starts making the size set sample. Firstly grading is done for size set using the base size
measurement. Then they make the size set sample. The graded size set patterns are
made including the shrinkages.
All the pattern information are then sent to the CAD department for the making of the
marker for bulk cutting.

Fig 71 - R&D department is given patterns in cloth bag. The bag contains the style
number and the buyer name.

After the R&D completes the making of size set, they give a go-ahead to the cutting
department to cut 10% of the total quantity.
After these initial pieces are loaded on the production line, the quality department checks
the quality of these initial pieces at every stage along with the measurements, if any
changes are to made regarding the pattern it is informed to the R&D department who
revises the pattern and then informs about the same to the CAD department.

93
 PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
The department responsible for converting the raw material (fabric) into a product
(garment) is known as production department.
The production department comprises of production lines, production managers, I.E
department, supervisors, checkers, operators etc.
HIERARCHY AT THE SEWING FLOOR

GM
Production

Production
I.E
Manager

Supervisor

Tailors Feed Helpers

Non
Ironers
Operators

House
Keeping
Personnel

94
Process flow

1. Receive production file containing information such as indent/PP comments/-

graded/specs/tech pack/bom sheet and sealer sample
2. Pre-production meeting (ppm comments/shrinkage added specs/trim are posted at
the end of each line)
3. Check alt the trims such as thread tex labels and other trims are matching with
specifications
4. Discussion with R&D department regarding the style to take appropriate action for
the product
5. Supervisors are insisted to make 1pc before starting bulk to understand the style
and time study along with the help of production manager
6. Set production target as per the O.B chart and arrange all attachments
7. Carryout mocks on operation at the time of line setting
8. Mark the critical Operation at the time of line setting
9. Maintain SPI of sewing
10. Record the hourly production on production monitor board / rework and defect
analysis
11. Carryout 100% quality check on stitched garments /rework Is rectified from the
operation itself
Here the production lines are 19 in number divided on three floors.
 5 lines on the ground floor
 8 lines on the second floor
 6 lines on the third floor

Every 5 line has one production manager, one senior I.E, one floor incharge, 5 supervisor
(1 for each line), one QC for 2 lines, 1 QA for 5 lines.
After the initial pieces are cut in the cutting department they are sent to the production line
that is planned for that particular style. Before this the production line is set for that
particular style. Setting of line here means arranging for the different machines and
attachments and arranging them sequentially. During this line setting the supervisor
makes 1 pc, by making this piece he basically defines the flow of the garment in the
production line, he also identifies the critical operation. After setting of the line supervisor
along with the I.E person decides which tailor will perform which operation.
On the first day of loading the style on the line, the supervisor guides the operator how to
perform the operation. A sample is also hung at their machines along with the description.

95
 Fig 72

This card is hung at each stitching machine. It contains a sample displaying the operation
that is to be performed by the operator. Along with the sample it also contains a small
description of how this operation is to be done and what are the things the operator needs
to take care while performing this operation

Fig 73

The production line system followed here is unit flow + zig-zag.

96
The cut parts from the cutting department are sent to the respective production line. Along
with the cut parts a job card is also sent which is a document holding record of the no. of
garments for which cut parts are sent, the ticket numbers of the parts sent, the date, style
number

Fig 74

So firstly when the cut parts reach at the line, the different parts are spread at the table
and one operator is responsible of matching the ticket no. of all the parts in a single
garment and keeping it in a basket.

Fig 75

97
 Fig 76

Here the movement of the cut parts, semi-finished garments takes place in the basket with
each basket containing one garment or one garment pieces.

Fig 77

Operator 1

Operator 2

Operator 3

Operator 4

Operator 5

Operator 6

This is the movement of the basket in the line. It moves in the zig-zag form. It first goes to
operator 1 then on the other side to operator 2 and so on and so forth.

98
 Fig 78

At the end of each line, an inspection table is kept where the checker checks the garment
after it has been made. If any faults or defects are found in stitching the same is informed
to the respective operator and the garment is given back for rectification.

Fig 79

Here a software is basically used for feeding information about the production line such as
output received, defects found, efficiency achieved etc. When the garment reach the table,
it is inspected by the checker, if no defect is found the checker taps on FTT which is first
time through and the count there increases, in case of defects he taps on the defect
option, then a screen is displayed containing a list of defects, the checker clicks on the
respective defect and that information gets stored. This data is used to see in which parts
of the garments the defects were more.
The other two buttons are rectifies and reject button. The pieces given for rectification are
again checked, if found to be ok the rectified button is tapped, but if the garment cannot be
repaired then it is rejected.

99
 Fig 80

This screen displays the information about the status of the production line. It shows
information such as the day target, the actual output given , efficiency percentage at which
the line is working, the operator and helper count, the percent of FTT, defects, repair,
hours left of the day, style number and the day number for which the line is running.

Fig 81

The next thing displayed is the hourly pieces planned against the actual, cumulative output
planned vs actual, the variance (WIP).

Fig 82

This is the screen that displays the data regarding the defects. Here the pictorial display of
garment appears with blue dots showing the place of occurrence of defects. On the side
there is a graph which highlights which defects occur and their frequency.

100
 Fig 83

This is the technical operation bulletin which contains information such as operation name,
type of machine to be used for each operation, attachments if any, sam for each operation
and total sam, target – pcs per hour and pcs per man.

Fig 84

The accessories swatch card displays information of the accessory used in that particular
style such as the thread, zippers or buttons, labels etc.

101
 Fig 85

This shows the setting of the line, how the machines are placed and which operator is
doing which operation.

102
 FINISHING DEPARTMENT
After stitching of the garment takes place , it is found that the product coming out of line is
not in a state for immediate use. Lots of untrimmed thread, dirt, wrinkles are found on the
garment. Therefore to make it ready for use we have the finishing department which looks
after the finishing of the garment to give it a more sellable look .The finishing department
involves trimming of thread, cleaning of spot dirt, inspection, ironing.

HIERARCHY OF THE FINISHING ROOM:

GM Production

Finishing in
charge

supervisor QC

Trimmer Helper Data entry Endline checker

103
 FLOW CHART

Thread cutting

Initial checking
spotting Alteration

Pressing

Measurement checking

Label checking

Tag attach

Send to Packaging

104
Thread checking
This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas.

Fig 86

Fig 87

Initial Checking

105
Spotting
This is done to remove stains from the garments. The stains are generally pen, pencil or
chalk marks, oil spots etc. The operator use acetone or vinyl for removing spots. They
have air jet spray also attached to their table. They also use a dry air pipe which dries the
wet spots.

Alteration & Measurement Checking

Fig 88

At each finishing table a measurement chart is displayed for the operators to check the
measurement of all the parts of the garment.

Fig 89

At each table a sheet with how to measure instructions is displayed. The sheet contains
the buyer name and the style number and pictorial display of how to measure the critical
parts of the garment. Critical here refers to the part where even the slightest change in
measurement is not acceptable.

106
Tagging section
Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they
are sent for tagging the labels. The labels here include the price tags and miscellaneous
labels if any required by the buyer .
Pressing & Folding
Once the tagging is complete the pressing and folding of garments takes place according
to the buyer specifications.

107
 PACKING DEPARTMENT
Packing is the last stage where the finished garments are primed, organized and geared
up for the shipment to buyer. The entire process from the garment folding to the final
labelling of the carton is dictated by the buyer specifications. These Instructions are
standardized for a particular order and style and are sent to the merchandiser in the form
of packing manual.

Packing is done in two stages :-

 first polybags packing is done

Fig 90 -
Polybag
packing

 And then carton packing.

Fig 91 - Carton
Packing

108
 Packing can be either hanger pack or fold pack.

Hanger
pack

Fold
pack

Fig 92

WORKING OF THE DEPARTMENT

After the receiving of garments from the finishing department, the garment is passed
through a needle detecting machine. Here pieces are checked for any broken part of
needle. If piece is found with needle it is removed and sent to checking.
After this the packing department receives the finished garments and a report is prepared
to record the number of pieces received. Then the size wise segregation of the garments
is done.
According to buyer’s requirement hangers and sizer`s are attached to the pieces(if
needed). After this ratio wise packing is according to the purchase order provided by the
buyer. Packing is in the form of prepack and bulk pack.

Fig 93- Purchase order is provided by the buyer. Buyer also specifies the minimum
and maximum carton dimension that the factory should use in packing of the given
style
109
 Prepack is the packing of pieces of different sizes in a single poly-bag in size ratio
provided by the buyer and then packing them in a carton.
In bulk packing a single piece is packed in a polybag (1 unit per polybag) and then these
pieces are loaded in a carton with one carton containing the pieces of one size and one
colour only.

Packing type
and PO
number
mentioned Shipping
information
is
mentioned

Style
description,
color, total
quantity unit
Size wise price is
quantity is mentioned
mentioned

Fig 94

110
 Fig 95- According to Purchase order garments are placed inside the
polybag

Fig 96 -The
required size of
carton is then
taken out from
the carton
storage room

111
 Fig 97 - These polybags are then loaded in the cartons

After loading them into cartons, carton stickers are attached to each carton, and
dispatched for final inspection.

Fig 98 - The sticker provided by the factory contains information such as P.O
number, SKU Number, Units per Prepack or bulk pack, carton number.

112
 Fig 99 - This carton sticker is
provided by the buyer.
It contains the same information
which was provided by the buyer in
the purchase order sheet.

Fig 99 - After packing and attaching sticker the

packed cartons are stacked before they are
shipped.

113
Each of the carton shipped is labelled with the following information printed on each :

 Carton no.  Buyer's logo  Company name

 Style no.  Country of origin  PO No.

 Measurement of the  Address of the buyer  Date of Delivery

carton
 Weight  Size ratio chart

114
 QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
Quality is considered to be the prime factor in the acceptance and rejection of a garment.
Quality assurance is a department in a garment industry that is responsible for looking
after the quality that is being produced. It is also responsible for checking that the quality is
according to the acceptable standards of the buyer.
In order to maintain quality the quality assurance departments has split up their job into
different stages of manufacturing and these are classified into four major groups which are
as follows:
QUALITY AUDIT:
Before the production of a style starts the R&D department is supposed to work and note
down their findings which could be helpful in the later production process. After the R&D
team has made the size set samples the quality team reviews it to check everything is as
per the specifications provided by the buyer.
When R&D gives go ahead to the cutting department, only 10% of the whole quantity is
cut, sometimes even less. These are the initial pieces which are then loaded on to the
production line. During this time it is the responsibility of the QA to check the pieces that
are being made in the line. The measurements are checked of the garments that are
coming out of the line, they are then send to the washing department (here first they send
any random 5 pieces). After washing again measurements are taken by stitching QA and
finishing QA, first without ironing and then after ironing. If any discrepancies are found in
the measurements the same is informed to the R&D department so that they can change
the pattern accordingly.
In the finishing department, first 50 pieces are checked and then comments are given to
the R&D regarding the changes that is to be made in the patterns.
After the R&D has made the necessary changes and informed the same to the CAD
department, bulk go ahead is given to the cutting department.
2 types of audit is done by the quality department :
 Cross audit- done randomly on initial pieces
 Internal audit- this is done before offering shipment. Packaging & all is checked.

115
 WASHING DEPARTMENT
During the production of a garment it goes through various processes, which leads to the
setting of dirt , stain, oil mark etc on the garment. These garments are washed before they
are finished in the finishing department. Sometimes washing is also done to change the
hand feel of the garment.
The washing department here consists of 8 people. Every production floor has its own
washing department. They have a capacity of 20,000 garment.

THE WORKING

Fig 100 -
Bulk
washing
machine

One washing department consists of 4 bulk washing machine. The weight of the garment
is taken, so that it is loaded in the machine according to the machine’s capacity. Before
starting the wash process, they check the washcare label of the garment. This label
provides them information regarding the amount of water to be taken, the type of wash
that is desired for the garment. 2gm/liter of chemical is taken (cationic/silicon). They
maintain the pH with the help of citric acid.
In case of garments that can color bleed they first wash them with water and then antiback
stain or color fixer is used.

116
Fig 101 -
Sample
washing
machine

They have one sample wash machine. 10-12 samples are washed together.

Fig 102

Sometimes to attain a soft hand feel the garments are dipped for a minimum of 20 minutes
in softener.
Also when the fabric arrives in house the fabric shrinkage is checked, for this the fabric is
dipped in water for about 24 hours.

117
 Fig 103

After the garments are washed they are transferred into the hydro-extractor machine, to
extract the water from the washed garments. They have 1 hydro-extractor machine per
production floor.
After water is extracted then as per the washcare label they are either tumble dried or line
dried.
There are two tumble dryer machines – XCEL, FABCARE

Fig 104- TUMBLE DRYER

118
 Fig 105 - LINE DRY

In the washing department they also have a spotting area where they remove any such
stain or oil marks that are found on the garments.

SPOTTING AREA

Fig 106

119
 MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
Maintenance is a system of maintaining plant machinery and utilities to ensure continuing
process capacity.

HIERARCHY

Head of
Department

Senior
Mechanic -4

Junior
Mechanic( 1 for
every 4 line)

AN EFFECTIVE MAINTENANCE PROGRAM HAS THE FOLLOWING AIMS:

 To maintain the equipment’s at their maximum operating speeds and maintaining
production efficiency.
 To ensure the best possible level of quality of the product.
 To minimize the idle time resulting from machinery breakdowns. To reduce to
minimum, the cost of maintenance consistent with the above objectives.
PROCEDURE OF MAINTENANCE:
After the 7 day pre-production meeting, the IE department informs the maintenance
department about the machine and attachments that are required for the upcoming style.
The responsibility of the maintenance department is then to arrange for the attachments
and required number of machines. Here, they firstly check the available machines
(machines that were used in the previous style) and then arrange for the difference
amount. The same is followed for the attachments.
During the line setting, the responsibility of the maintenance department is to set the
particular machine i.e to check that the machine is in the right working condition,
attachments are attached properly, in other words preventive maintenance is performed at
that time.

120
 EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT
It is the area in the industry which deals with the liquid waste which is produced from the
industry. The effluent treatment is designed in such a way to get rid of the maximum
impurities from the water before releasing it.
THE WORKING

Fig 107

The ETP here consists of two tanks water tanks 1& 2. Tank 1 stores the water that is
discharged from the industry whereas tank 2 stores the treated water (water free from the
chemicals). The water from tank no.2 is discharged to the sewages.

Fig 108

121
Three kinds of chemicals are used for treating the waste water. If in tank no.1 the water is
colored then it is treated with ferrous sulphite, Alum and hydrated lime otherwise only alum
and hydrated lime is used.
After the water is treated with the above chemicals, it is transferred to tank no.2. Before
transferring the water from tank 1 to tank 2 the sludge is separated in another tank.

Fig 109

Also, the worker is supposed to look after the pH of the water in tank 1. He is supposed to
maintain the pH within 7. He uses a pH meter for this purpose.

Fig 110

122
PLANT LAYOUT

123
BASEMENT PLAN

124
GROUND PLAN

125
FIRST FLOOR PLAN

126
SECOND FLOOR PLAN

127
THIRD FLOOR PLAN

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 LEARNING EXPERIENCE
In the duration of this 14 weeks of Apparel Internship in Pee Empro, Faridabad we have
learnt various processes involved in production of apparels. We got the idea how the
Merchandising, Production, Planning and Coordination department divides the number of
days in each department to complete an order. We had the opportunity to see how the
different departments works in co-ordination with each other to execute one single order.
We learnt about the importance of following the time schedule in order to achieve the
results on time.
During our study we came across many areas where we thought we could enhance, ease
out the process. We took few of them as our project and started the initial implementation
leaving a scope of betterment in the industry.
We learnt that with each change that we want comes patience that we need to have while
bringing a change. In our case it was the implementation of the traffic light system which
required us to be patient enough and to make the operators understanad the benefit they
are going to achieve from this newly enhanced procedure.
We would like to thank Mr. Shashank Singh for allowing us to visit the various
departments which helped us in enriching our knowledge. He also supported and guided
us throughout our industrial experience.
We are grateful to the authorities of Pee Empro for providing us with such a great learning
experience.

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 CONCLUSION

The 14 weeks of apparel internship was a journey full of knowledge , learning and
industrial exposure. This was a first major long term industrial project which enlightened us
with the complete functionality of a composite apparel firm. We witnessed some of the
world’s best technologies and state of the art infrastructure that were explained by some of
the great intelligentsia.

The main aspects of learning included understanding the processes in depth, technical
details and involvement of the machinery, human capital and information technology. Thus
by providing us the great opportunity to take this precious internship Pee Empro Pvt Ltd.
has contributed a lot for building up a good knowledge base and hands on experience for
the development of our career in this field.
Thus we would like to thank Pee Empro for training us well.

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ANNEXURES

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