ABSTRACT

This report is on textile internship at Jaipuria Silk Mills unit furnishing division. The main
focus of this internship was to closely understand the process flow of the textile industry,
from raw materials to finishing of the fabric. Therefore, we have gone through various
departments that are raw materials department, yarn winding department, yarn dyeing
department, warping department, beaming department, knotting department, weaving
department, inspection department, printing department, embroidery department,
packaging department, shipment department in this time period. In this internship, we
practically observed the process and understood the minute details of the process and the
textile industry works. We have gained knowledge of this efficient working industry and its
manufacturing and planning process. Under this internship schedule, all the qualified
appointed people helped and guided us in understanding and learning different aspects of
the industry.

In this internship period we were assigned to have a detail study about the technical process
in the industry. In weaving division, we checked the weaving section, fabric inspection and
quality checking department, raw material department, warping and winding department,
and weft winding department etc. Also our mentor Eshwar Sir guided us to understand the
human behaviour and how to make them work with full efficiency.
 OBJECTIVE: -
The main objective of this internship was to understand the concept of weaving, dyeing,
printing and textile testing and their quality aspects. The other reasons are to get a feel of
the work environment and to apply the knowledge taught in the lecture rooms in real
industrial situations.

The main objectives of the internship were:

 Understanding basic principles of production of textiles. 


 In depth study and understanding of all process involved in textile production and the
machinery and equipment used. 


 Knowledge about the company. 


 Understanding the company’s process flow in production. 


 Study the work environment and practices followed for textile production. 

 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Joining NIFT for an undergraduate professional course was like ‘a dream come true’ for us.
We got a chance to make a detailed research on the various processes from fibre to fabric
done in Jaipuria Silk Mills which was a great experience. For all this we will be always
grateful to the for allowing us to visit Jaipuria Silk Mills and gain
this experience. We would also like to extend our gratitude to Mr. Eshwar sir and Mr.
Prahalad sir, our industry mentors and Miss Archana Mam for guiding us throughout our
industry visit.

We take the opportunity to express our gratitude to Mr. Sumit Kumar our faculty guide for
giving us a good guideline for assignment throughout numerous consultations. We would
also like to expand our deepest gratitude to all those who have directly or indirectly guided
us in writing this report which include all the employees, workers those who are working in
the Jaipuria Silk Mills for their support.
COMPANY PROFILE
COMPANY NAME- JAIPURIA SILK MILLS PRIVATE LIMITED

LOCATION- ATTIBELE HOBLI , BENGALURU

COMPANY CATEGOTY- COMPANY LIMITED BY SHARES

COMPANY SUB CATEGORY- NON GOVT. COMPANY

DATE OF INCORPORATION- 12 MAY 1995

DIRECTORS- NIRMAL KUMAR JAIPURIA, ADITYA JAIPURIA, VIKRAM

JAIPURIA

NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES- 200-300

ABOUT THE COMPANY

Universal Textile Mills was founded in 1969 as a silk trading house by Mr. N.K.
Jaipuria and soon expanded to be one of the India’s leading weaving mills.
Universal Textile Mills- ‘UTM’ is a three-generation-old mill located in
Bangalore, India. In 2002, Jaipuria Silk Mills Private Limited-‘JSML’ was
established as a modern weaving mill with-in-house capacity to produce fine
multi-fiber woven draperies, digital prints and velvets for the high end home
décor market for export to top editors of Europe, United Kingdom, United
States, the Gulf, South Africa, Japan, etc.

Situated on a Twenty acres campus, UTM-JSML has in-house weaving

machines of jacquard, dobby and velvets, computer embroidery, digital
printing, dyeing and finishing facilities apart from the design studio,
administrative offices and warehousing. With a vest yarn bank of nearly 120
shades in multiple fibers, we manufacture drapery and upholstery fabrics in a
variety of qualities and compositions for editors and converters across the
globe in over 20 countries in our facilities.

UTM-JSML offers a wide range of embroidered, digital prints, woven designs

and velvets for Upholstery and Drapery. Depending on the client requirement
they either ship the product in fabric form or in the made-up form. Through
their partners, they have worked on multiple exclusive projects including
Museum artwork restorations in France, the Royal Collection by Designer’s
Guild in UK made for Her Majesty The Queen and special projects for His
Highness the Aga Khan in addition to be used in many of the luxury hotels in
the world.

Innovation and design is the core of the Company’s strength. They have a large
design team comprising of artists, weave technicians and experienced textile
designers from prestigious institutions in India and abroad, all dedicated to the
art of creating beautiful textiles. The creative in-house design team also works
in collaboration with clients on bespoke projects to deliver unique products
that serve the specific needs of their clients.

PRODUCTION DIVISIONS
DOBBY-

Dobby cloth is a type of woven fabric known for having small geometric patterns. It is also
known for being very textured compared with some weaves. It is made on a special machine
known as a dobby loom. These looms have been around a long time, first appearing in 1843.
They are a floor standing loom that uses something called a dobby. This is believed to be a
corruption of the term ‘draw boy’ and refers to a weaver’s helper who controlled the warp
threads. The dobby is the alternative of the treadle loom. The modern version of the loom is
a computerised affair that can create an almost unlimited range of sequences. Dobby fabrics
have a great variation and a large number of uses. It can be woven with fine yarns to make
dress shirts. Thicker or fluffier yarns can be also used for home furnishing material such as
curtains and sofas. It is made with cotton but also other fibres such as rayon or silk. One of
the most famous weaving styles that has come from the dobby loom and is therefore a
dobby fabric is pique. This is the fabric with raised parallel cords or sometimes a fine ribbing
effect. It is similar to twill cotton and is sometimes known as Marcella.

JACQUARD-

Jacquard fabric is a type of cloth featuring an intricate pattern woven into the warp on a
special mechanical loom, rather than printed on the surface. It was a French weaver Joseph-
Marie Jacquard who invented this technology in 1804, so the fabric was named after him.
These fabrics are available in a variety of compositions and weights and serve various
purposes. Lightweight jacquards are often picked for spring and summer apparel, whereas
heavy cloths have their say in colder seasons.
Jacquards come both in tone-on-tone and contrast designs, and a choice of patterns is
unlimited: from classic stripes and polka dots to fancy botanicals, florals and even
conversational themes. Unlike prints which are applied to the fabric after it is woven,
jacquard patterns are created together with the cloth. The beauty of the jacquard loom is in
its ability to interlace hundreds of warp threads to create unique designs.
Any jacquard fabric is all about the pattern, which looks that unique due to the way it is
applied. Very often, if you look at the back of the cloth, long floats can be found; these are
threads used to produce the pattern, and it tells you straight away that you are dealing with
jacquard.
Though most jacquards are woven, there are also knitted options. Jacquard knit is either a
single or double knit fabric made with any yarn. Compared to single cloth, double knit has
no floats on the back and is reversible.

VELVET-
Velvet is a kind of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are distributed in an even
manner in a short dense pile thus giving a very soft and smooth feel. Velvet fabric is
traditionally made with silk, in which cotton is used only occasionally. Recently, there has
been an advent of using synthetic fabrics for velvet. Apart from the fabric, the word
`velvety’ is also used to describe something smooth, soft and with a rich touch.

DEPARTMENTS
  Administrations
 Managing
 Merchandising
 Design studio
 Accounts
 Raw yarn storage
 Yarn issue
 Dyeing
 Weaving
 Printing
 Embroidery
 Inspection
 Packing and Dispatch
 Courier and Dispatch

PROCESSES
 Raw Materials

Yarn Winding

Yarn Dyeing

Warping

Beaming

Knotting

Sizing

Weaving

Inspection

Printing

Embroidery

Final Inspection

Packaging

Shipment

1.RAW MATERIALS
Yarn consists of several strands of material twisted together. Each strand is, in turn, made of
fibers, all shorter than the piece of yarn that they form. These short fibers are spun into
longer filaments to make the yarn. Long continuous strands may only require additional
twisting to make them into yarns. Sometimes they are put through an additional process
called texturing.
The characteristics of spun yarn depend, in part, on the amount of twist given to the fibers
during spinning. A fairly high degree of twist produces strong yarn; a low twist produces
softer, more lustrous yarn; and a very tight twist produces crepe yarn. Yarns are also
classified by their number of parts. A single yarn is made from a group of filament or staple
fibers twisted together. Ply yarns are made by twisting two or more single yarns. Cord yarns
are made by twisting together two or more ply yarns. About 15 different types of fibers are
used to make yarn. These fibers fall into two categories, natural and synthetic. Natural
fibers are those that are obtained from a plant or an animal and are mainly used in weaving
textiles. The most abundant and commonly used plant fiber is cotton, gathered from the
cotton boil or seed pod when it is mature. In fact, cotton is the best-selling fiber in America,
outselling all synthetic fibers combined.
In Jaipuria, all the yarns are stored in the yarn storage room in the form of raw materials.
Generally, these yarn are imported from different international and domestic companies.
Yarn comes in three forms i.e. hank, cone & cheese. Silk yarns generally come in the form of
hank and directly goes for hank yarn dyeing. Viscose, cotton, linen, polyester yarns come in
the form of cone and cheese. The companies where the yarns are imported are:-
 SILK- a)XINYUAN COCOON SILK GROUP CO.LTD(CHINA)
b)KINGDOM YARNS(CHINA)
c)HENGIXAN GUIHUA COCOON & SILK CO. LTD(CHINA)
 COTTON- a)RAJGURU SPINNING MILLS PVT.LTD
b)CHERAN SPINNER PRIVATE LTD.
 FANCY YARN- a)CMC PVT. LTD (GUJURAT)
b)DAMODAR FANCY YARN(MUMBAI)
 LINEN- HAIAN XINYUAN IMPORT & EXPORT CO. LTD
 POLYESTER- a)SURAT( MADANLAL BAHORA PVT. LTD)
b)ADITYA BIRLA GRASIM
 VISCOSE- BANGALORE

There is a maximum usage of cotton, polyester, linen, viscose in the Jaipuria industry.
Silk usage has been degraded as compared to before (SILK 25% & OTHER 75%).
 Raw materials(yarns)

2.YARN WINDING
Winding is the process of transferring yarn or thread from one type of package to another
to facilitate subsequent processing. The re-handling of yarn is an integral part of the fiber
and textile industries. Not only must the package and the yarn itself be suitable for
processing on the next machine in the production process, but also other factors such as
packing cases, pressure due to winding tension, etc., must be considered. Basically, there
are two types of winding machines: precision winders and drum winders. Precision winders,
used primarily for filament yarn, have a traverse driven by acam that is synchronized with
the spindle and produce packages with a diamond-patterned wind. Drum winders are used
principally for spun yarns; the package is driven by frictional contact between the surface of
the package and the drum.

Types of Winding:
1. Precision Winding
2. Non Precision Winding

Precision Winding:
By precision winding successive coils of yarn are laid close together in a parallel or near
parallel manner. By this process it is possible to produce very dense package with maximum
amount of yarn stored in a given volume.

Features of Precision Winding

 Package are wound with a reciprocating traverse
 Patterning and rubbing causes damage of packages
 Package contains more yarn
 Package is less stable
 The package is hard and compact
 The package is dense
 Rate of unwinding of package is low and the process of unwinding is hard
 The unwound coil is arranged in a parallel or near parallel manner
Non Precision Winding:
By this type of winding package is formed by a single thread which is laid on the package at
appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another and give stability to the package.
The packages formed by this type of winding are less dense but is more stable.

Features of Non Precision Winding

 Only one coil is used to make this packages
 Cross winding technique is used
 The package density is low
 Minimum number of yarn is wound
 The package formed is soft and less compact
 The stability is high
 Flanges are not required
 The rate of unwinding is high and the process is easy
 The packages formed have low density

Machines used in the Jaipuria industry for yarn winding are:-

 From hank to cheese- Scharer Schweiter Mettler AG (fast flex) from Switzerland-
Neugasse 10.
 From cone to cheese- Scharer Schweiter Mettler AG (perci flex) from Switzerland –
ST63S2.
Machine Specifications: -
1.SSM PERCIFLEX
Types of winding Precision
Mechanical speed Up to 1500mtr/min
Package shape Free programmable
Take up package diameter Up to 250mm
Package weight Up to 5 kg
Supply package diameter 2-ply creeling: up to 240 mm / 3-ply
creeling: up to 220 mm
Yarns Staple yarns
Count Ne 3...80 (Nm 5...135 / 80...2000 dtex)
Take-up tubes Cylindrical and conical up to 4° 20’
conicity
Layout single or double sided machine
N° of spindles per section 6 (single sided) and 2 x 6 (double sided)
min. / max. N° of spindles 6 (single sided) and 2 x 6 (double sided) /
96 (single sided) and 2 x 48 (double
sided)
Gauge 366 mm
Drive Individual
Installed power ~ 200 W per spindle
Power consumption ~ 100 W per spindle
Blower ~ 1100 W

2.SSM FASTFLEX
Types of winding precision
Mechanical speed up to 2000-2500 m/min (process speed
depending on process parameters)
Package shape freely programmable
Take-up package diameter up to 300 mm
Package weight up to 10 kg
Supply package diameter 2-plies up to 280 mm / 3-plies up to 240
mm
Yarns staple yarns, monofilament, textured
filaments, medium count technical yarns
Count Ne 1.5...240 / 10...4000 dtex
Take-up tubes cylindrical or cones up to 5° 57’
max. length 290 mm, min. base diameter
38 mm
max. diameter with automatic doffer:
inner 90 mm, outer 96 mm
Layout single or double sided
N° of spindles per section 5 (single sided) or 10 (double sided)
N° of spindles min. / max. 5 / 80 (single sided) and 10 / 80 (2 x 40
double sided, back to back)
Gauge 440 mm
Drive individual
Installed power ~250 W per spindle
Power consumption ~100...180 W per spindle (depending on
winding parameters / options)
Blower (installed power) up to 2200 W (depending on blower type
and manufacturer)
Compressed air 6 bar (only required for machines with
automatic doffer / pneumatic bracket
opener)
3.YARN DYEING
There are many forms of yarn dyeing. Common forms are the package form and the hanks
form. Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form, and acrylic or wool yarn are dyed at
hank form. In the continuous filament industry, polyester or polyamide yarns are always
dyed at package form, while viscose rayon yarns are partly dyed at hank form because of
technology.
Yarn dyeing is slightly difference from woven or knit dyeing. Dyed yarns are used for making
stripe knit or woven fabrics or solid dyed yarn fabric or in sweater manufacturing. Yarns are
dyed in package form or hank form by yarn dyeing process. Dyeing process can be vary
depending on the individual procedure of a textile engineer or a dyeing master. Now I will
give typical flow chart of yarn dyeing.

HANK DYEING: -
A very unique dyeing process in which colour penetration is maximized and the yarns retain
a softer, loftier feel.
Hank dyeing is a simple but time-consuming process. First, the skein of yarn is looped over a
hook and washed in water, opening the fibers to receive the dye. It is then dipped into the
dye for up to forty-eight hours, washed, and redipped. This procedure is repeated several
times.
Once the desired color is achieved, the yarn is steamed to fix the dye to the fibers. Because
it does not use as many chemicals as other forms of dyeing, hank dyeing is less damaging to
the material. The final dye colors are also usually richer than those achieved by other dyeing
methods.
WHY HANK DYEING?
Although package dyeing route is much simple and easy to follow for dyeing of different kinds
of yarn, but still the hank route is popular for certain qualities, there are two reasons for this,
 The quality and nature of the product does not allow to follow package route.
 The package route is non practical and non-economical.

PRODUCT QUALITY
Certain kinds of yarns which are so delicate that their physical properties such as strength
appearance, texture and construction cannot be retained while following the package route
in which yarn is processed under stretched conditions at elevated temperatures. The
examples of such products are natural silk, viscose rayon., voluminous yarns, High bulk
acrylic, shrink resist treated wool and its blends. Cashmere, its blends with wool and nylon,
nylon and hand knitting yarns of different fancy constructions.

ECONOMY OF PROCESS
In case of mercerized cotton yarns, the yarn mercerizing is done in the hank
form and material has to be neutralized before dyeing, therefore it is not
economical to convert these hanks to packages for dyeing.

Process sequence for yarn dyeing in hank form

 Singeing (for mercerized cotton yarns)
 Reeling
 Mercerization (for mercerized cotton yarns)
 Dyeing
 Hydro extraction or squeezing
 Drying
 Hank to cone winding
 Fig; Hank winding
Machines Used
1. Swastik Machine
2. Tung Shing Dyeing Machine

 In hank dye machine, one arm consists of 30 hanks each of 160gram to 200gram

SPECIFICATIONS OF HANK DYE MACHINES

 No pilling effects
 No Abrasion
 No Foaming problem
 No Weight Loss
 No distortion
 No crease mark & cracking
 Even Dyeing Effect
 Complete Reel operated
 Liquor Ratio 1:3 to 1:5
 Feel of Fabric is retained

CHEESE DYEING: -
This is a dyeing process where yarns in the cone form are converted to cheese form for the
dyeing purpose. A cheese is a soft package wound at dye tubes, in order to allow the
permeability of liquor even at adverse conditions.
  In Jaipuria industry, Dalal Machine is used for cheese dyeing.

HTHP MACHINE: -The High Temperature High Pressure (HTHP) cheese dyeing machine is
used for dyeing of yarn, which is required for producing multicolored stripes, check and
jacquard fabric for attractive designs. The dyeing of yarn is carried in the form of cheese.
The dyeing operation is carried out under higher temperature of above 100oC and under
high pressure.

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS

 Model: - 12 x 250ml, 18 x 250ml, 24 x 250ml, also available in 150ml, 500ml beaker

size.
 Fully SS Double Wall structure with insulation. Outside MS/Inside SS model also
available
 Heating Load-3 x 2.0 KW – Maximum rate of rise - 50 C/Min.
 Drive – ½ , ¼, 1HP 25 or 32 rpm geared motor coupled with rotor shaft.
  Forward / Reverse movement of rotor thru programmer.
 Beakers / rotor made from SS 316 and frame, tank and top made from SS 304. SS316
Single Piece Beakers (without any welding) made from Die
 With Microprocessor based Temperature Programmer
 COOLING – Through cold water inlet in copper coil.
 POWER – 440V, 3 Phase, Neutral, 50 Hz

Chemicals used in dyeing:

DRYING PROCESS: - Dryer is essential to remove remaining water from the package. About
60-80% water removes by dryer. After passing Hydro section package move into drying
section. Monga Strayfield is used as yarn dryer in the yarn dyeing department.( In Jaipuria
Industry).

To dry a cheese winded yarn, the machine takes up to 30 minutes and to dry a hank form
yarn it takes around 1 hour 15 minutes. Hot steam comes from upper and bottom side of
the machine to dry the cheese bobbins or hanks. The process is repeated twice to get a
complete dried yarns. And also after printing, for better colour absorption, a machine
names Texfab is used for the drying process.
Cheese dryer
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS

Air cooled 40kW RF dryer for hanks, muffs, tops, cones, fibres and cheeses.

Performance Specifications
Product Moisture
Polyester 14% - 2%
Acrylic 15% - 2%
Polyamide 18% - 3%
Wool/Acrylic 33% - 11%
Wool 42% - 17%
Poly / Cotton 30% - 5%
Cotton 52% - 8%
Viscose 80% - 11%
Ramie Cotton 29% - 12%
Acrylic/Cotton 45% - 14%
Angora 35% - 3%
Silk 55% - 8%
Rayon 75% - 11%

Technical Specifications
R F Power 40 kW
Frequency 27.12 MHz
Conversion Efficiency 70% - 75%
Unit Cooling Forced Air Cooled
Electrical Supply 410V 3ph 50Hz 0.9 Cosø
Electric Power 84 kW Max
 Modular Conveyor 1400 mm wide

Fabric dryer

4.YARN WARPING: -
The parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages (cone, cheese) on to a
common package (warp beam) is called warping.

Warping carries out following operations:

 Creation, out of a limited number of warp threads, of a warp composed of any number
of threads with the desired length;
 Arrangement of above-mentioned threads according to the desired sequence;
 Manufacturing of a warp beam with said characteristics.

Objects of Warping:
To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so that they can be collect
on a single warp beam as a continuous sheet of yarns which can be used for sizing or next
process.
 Warping

Warping process involves:

Types of Warping:
1.Direct warping- High speed warping also called Beam warping/Direct warping. In high
speed warping the yarn is wound parallel on the warping beam. All the yarns are wound at
once and simple flanged beam is used. It is a very high speed process and is used for making
fabric of single colour.

Flow Chart of High Speed Warping

Creel
 ↓
Beam for sizing
↓
Weaver’s Beam
Features of High Speed Warping
 It is used to make common fabrics in large quantities
 It is used to produce weavers beam from single yarn
 The production is high
 Large amount of yarn is required to produce a weaver’s beam
 Sizing is done
 Simple flanged beam is used and drums are not required.

2.Sectional warping- In sectional warping equal length of yarn is first wound in small sections
or sheets on a drum. Then from the drum it is transferred to the beam. By this process we
directly get the weavers beam. This is a two stage method and is used for making fancy fabrics.

Flow Chart of Sectional Warping:

Creel
↓
Drum
↓
Beam (Weaver’s Beam)

Working Principle of Sectional Warping:

 Sectional warping is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern fabrics.
 In this case sections of the warp which may contain up to 1000 ends are first wound
onto a drum tapered with a given cone angle.
 So cross wound sections are combined on the drum & thus each layer of warp contains
the same number of ends on the drum.
 Then the warp threads altogether are transferred onto a weavers beam by unwinding
the drum.
 In this method the warp threads are not necessarily processed in sizing.

Features of Sectional Warping

 This is suitable for making checked, stripped or other fancy fabric.
 We directly obtain weaver’s beam from this process
 As sizing is not done, so multi-ply yarns or yarns which do not require sizing are used
 Small amount of yarn is required to produce the weaver’s beam
 Sectional warping is used to produce a warp beam with a greater member if ends
 The production is less in sectional warping
 The yarn tension is less uniform
  It is less efficient than high speed warping

SPECIFICATIONS:
WORKING WIDTH 2200mm to 4000 mm
DRUM TYPE Metallic Drum, Dynamically Balanced

DRUM CIRCUMFERENCE 3.0 Mtrs.

WARPING SPEED 0–600Mtrs. /Min.

BEAMING SPEED 0–100Mtrs. /Min.

WARPTABLE With feeler roller and traverse By Servo
Motor
BEAMING SECTION Separate and Fixed on floor

MAIN POWER SUPPLY 440V±5%, 50Hz,3phase

DRUM DRIVE AC variable speed, frequency controlled.

ELECTRIC MOTORS One for warping, One for Beaming

SERVO CONTROLS Three Servo Systems

BEAM DRIVE : AC variable speed, Frequency Controlled

BEAMING TENSION Hydraulic, uniform, auto controlled

LIQUID WAXING Three roller system

BEAM CHUCKING Special designed and Motorised

Importance of Warping:
 Construction of a beam of warp yarn.
 Construction of a parallel yarn sheet.
 Modifying the faults of yarn like thick or thin place.
 Winding the pre- determined length of yarn.
 Combination of small packages.
 Accelerating the next process.

Important requirements of Warping:

 The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the
time of with drawl from the supply package.
 Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of yarn.
 The tension should be moderate to allow the yarn complete retain its elastic
 properties.
 Predetermined length should be observed.
 Production rate should be high as possible.
 The surface of warping package must be cylindrical.

Components of warping machine:

 Creel
 Single end creel
 Magazine creel
 Travelling package creel
 Swivel frame creel
 V – Shaped creel

Creel

 Head stock
 Fixed
 Traveling

 Machine used for warping is Vamatex Machinery (India) and Servomatic.

5. BEAMING: -
Beaming comprises winding the full width of the warp yarns in a single winding operation on
the weaving beam (i.e. the beam which is to be placed on the loom). The warp yarns can be
wound from a creel or a warping beam.
6. SIZING: -
Size is a gelatinous film forming substance in solution or dispersion form, applied normally
to warp yarns. It can sometimes be applied to weft yarns. Sizing is the process of applying
the size material on yarn. A generic term for compounds that are applied to warp yarn to
bind the fiber together and stiffen the yarn to provide abrasion resistance during weaving.
Starch, gelatin, oil, wax, and manufactured polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene,
polyacrylic acid, and polyacetates are employed. The process of applying sizing compounds.
The process of weighing sample lengths of yarn to determine the count. Now automation is
used in sizing operation.

Objects of Sizing:
 To protect the yarn from abrasion
 To improve the breaking strength of the yarn
 To increase smoothness of yarn
 To increase yarn elasticity
 To decrease hairiness
  To decrease the generation of static electricity

Types of Sizing:
 Pure sizing: when the size pick up % is about 3 – 10 % it is called pure sizing.
 Light sizing: when the size pick up % is about 11 -16% it is called light sizing.
 Medium sizing: when the size pick up % is about 17 – 40 % it is called medium sizing.
 Heavy sizing: when the size pick up % is above 40 % then it is called heavy sizing.

Disadvantages of Sizing:
 Cost of land and machine is high
 Requires lot of labors
 Requires utility like gas, electricity etc and their cost is high
 Cost of ingredients
 The process is long and it takes time
 There is a risk of degradation of yarn
 The yarn diameter is increased
 Requires robust loom
 It increases yarn stiffness
 The fabric needs to be desized before use
 Need knowledge and information about the size ingredients
 There is a risk of pollution
 Sizing changes the shade of colored yarn
 100% size material cannot be removed
 Size material presence leads to uneven dying

7.KNOTTING: -
Yarn Joining:
The ends of yarn joined by knot is called knotting & the end of yarn joined by knotless join is
called splicing.

So there are two methods of yarn joining: -

 Knotting
 Splicing
 Bends
 Hitches

What is Knotting?
 Knotting is tying two threads to each other or to tie thread to any other object.
 The joint between one thread to another or object is called Knot.

 Hitches - used when attaching rope, cord and yarn to an object or when an object is used
as an anchor for the knot.

There are two main purpose of introducing knots in textile.

  Continuity knots: - are used for continuity of yarn.
 Clearing knot: - are to substitute yarn faults during yarns clearing.
 A knot should satisfy various requirements for different uses in textile industry which
areas under
 It should be easy to tie.
 It should Have good resistance to slippage.
 It should be of size & shape that gives a little chance of catching or jamming from warp
beam to cloth fell.

Different types of knots:

 Dog knot: - tying of dogs knot is simple and quick but it is bulkier than weaver’s and
fisherman’s knot. It is only suitable for creeling and these knots will not be
incorporated into the fabric.

 Fisherman’s knot: -it is most popular but it is not at all convenient to lie by hand. They
have a diameter 3-4 times that of parents yarn and are popular for filament, cotton,
woollen, worsted and blends.

Modern knotting machine

There are 3 verities of fisherman’s knot i.e.

1. SS
2. SL
3. LL
With S&L denoting the direction of 2 ends with the component over knots.

Reef knot: -
The reef knot can be considered an unsafe knot when human life depends on it. If used to tie
two ends of any rope or cord together this knot will spill easily when any of the ends are
tugged.
The knot will spill into reversed half hitches and will then continue to slip resulting in the two
joined ends coming apart.

Weaver’s knot: -
 The weavers knot has a number of variations which for ease of classification are called
weavers knot.
 The method of tying each knot is similar and they are usually started with both strands
to be joined held in the left hand. The knot is then worked with the right hand to bring
it into shape.
 It has very less slippage.
 Weaver’s knot is specially used in cotton threads.
 Weavers knots are a vital part of the textile industry. Without them all traditional
woven materials would undone.

Factors affecting quality of a yarn knot

1. Resistance to slippage: - most of the knot fail in downstream process is due to slippage.
Degree of slippage depends on fiber type blend, composition, linear density.
2. Size of knot: - A bigger knot causes serious obstruction as it passes through small path
like healed eyes, reed dent and knitting needles etc. it leads to uneven tension and results
in breakage.
3. Knot tail ends: - the tail length should basically be judged from the linear density and
rigidity. For yarn of lower D and rigidity, the tail length should be short and vice versa for
greater LD and rigidity.

8.WEAVING: -
Weaving, production of fabric by interlacing two sets of yarns so that they cross each other,
normally at right angles, usually accomplished with a hand- or power-operated loom.
In weaving, lengthwise yarns are called warp; crosswise yarns are called weft, or filling.
Most woven fabrics are made with their outer edges finished in a manner that avoids
ravelling; these are called selvages. They run lengthwise, parallel to the warp yarns. The
three basic weaves are plain, twill, and satin. Fancy weaves—such as pile, Jacquard, dobby,
and leno—require more complicated looms or special loom attachments for their
construction.

The manner in which the yarns are interlaced determines the type of weave. The yarn count
and number of warp and filling yarns to the square inch determine the closeness or
looseness of a weave. Woven fabrics may also be varied by the proportion of warp yarns to
filling yarns. Some effects are achieved by the selection of yarns or of combinations of yarns.

In the plain weave each filling yarn passes over and under the warp yarns, with the order
reversed in alternating rows. Fabrics made in the plain weave include percale, muslin, and
taffeta. Ribbed effects in such fabrics as faille and bengaline are produced by employing
heavier yarns for either the warp or the filling. In the basket weave one or more filling yarns
are passed alternately over and under two or more warp yarns, as seen in monk’s cloth.

Twill weaves are made by interlacing the yarns in a manner producing diagonal ribs, ridges,
or wales across the fabric. Wales may run from the upper right to the lower left of the
fabric, or the reverse. The herringbone weave has wales running both ways. Twill fabrics
include denim, gabardine, and flannel.

Satin weaves have a sheen produced by exposing more warps than fillings on the right side
of the fabric. The exposed warps are called floats. In the sateen weave the process is
reversed, and the exposed fillings form the floats. The amount of twist in the yarns and the
length of the floats produce variations. Fabrics made in these weaves include slipper satin,
satin crepe, and various sateen types.
Pile weaves produce fabrics with raised, dense surfaces. They can be made by weaving extra
warp yarns over wires, producing loops that are cut as the wires are withdrawn; by
adjusting loom tension to produce loops that are frequently left uncut; by using extra filling
yarns to produce floats that are cut after weaving; or by weaving two cloths face to face,
binding them together with an extra set of warps that form the pile when the fabrics are cut
apart. Examples of woven pile fabrics include velvet, plush, terry cloth, and many of the
synthetic furs.
TYPE OF WEAVING MACHINES USED IN JAIPURIA SILK MILL:
JACQUARD-
Jacquard fabric is a type of cloth featuring an intricate pattern woven into the warp on a
special mechanical loom, rather than printed on the surface. It was a French weaver Joseph-
Marie Jacquard who invented this technology in 1804, so the fabric was named after him.
These fabrics are available in a variety of compositions and weights and serve various
purposes. Lightweight jacquards are often picked for spring and summer apparel, whereas
heavy cloths have their say in colder seasons.
Jacquards come both in tone-on-tone and contrast designs, and a choice of patterns is
unlimited: from classic stripes and polka dots to fancy botanicals, florals and even
conversational themes. Unlike prints which are applied to the fabric after it is woven,
jacquard patterns are created together with the cloth. The beauty of the jacquard loom is in
its ability to interlace hundreds of warp threads to create unique designs.
Any jacquard fabric is all about the pattern, which looks that unique due to the way it is
applied. Very often, if you look at the back of the cloth, long floats can be found; these are
threads used to produce the pattern, and it tells you straight away that you are dealing with
jacquard.
Though most jacquards are woven, there are also knitted options. Jacquard knit is either a
single or double knit fabric made with any yarn. Compared to single cloth, double knit has
no floats on the back and is reversible.

Jacquard weaves, produced on a special loom, are characterized by complex woven-in

designs, often with large design repeats or tapestry effects. Fabrics made by this method
include brocade, damask, and brocatelle. Dobby weaves, requiring a special loom
attachment, have small, geometric, textured, frequently repeated woven-in designs, as seen
in bird’s-eye piqué. Leno weaves, also made with a special attachment, are usually
lightweight and open, giving a lacelike appearance, and are made by twisting adjacent warp
yarns around each other, then passing the filling yarn through the twisted warps.
Marquisette, casement cloth, and mosquito netting are produced by this method.
Fabrics produced on a Dobby loom usually used two or more different colours of yarns to
make the patterns and designs noticeable, it provides an alternative to printing fabric after
it has been woven. Many different patterns can be created on a Dobby Loom but it is more
tedious and time consuming than Plain weaving. The design is usually repeated frequently
and an all-over patterned fabric is produced.
 In Jaipuria industry, machine used for jacquard weave is STAUBALI.
DOBBY-
Dobby cloth is a type of woven fabric known for having small geometric patterns. It is also
known for being very textured compared with some weaves. It is made on a special machine
known as a dobby loom. These looms have been around a long time, first appearing in 1843.
They are a floor standing loom that uses something called a dobby. This is believed to be a
corruption of the term ‘draw boy’ and refers to a weaver’s helper who controlled the warp
threads. The dobby is the alternative of the treadle loom. The modern version of the loom is
a computerised affair that can create an almost unlimited range of sequences. Dobby fabrics
have a great variation and a large number of uses. It can be woven with fine yarns to make
dress shirts. Thicker or fluffier yarns can be also used for home furnishing material such as
curtains and sofas. It is made with cotton but also other fibres such as rayon or silk. One of
the most famous weaving styles that has come from the dobby loom and is therefore a
dobby fabric is pique. This is the fabric with raised parallel cords or sometimes a fine ribbing
effect. It is similar to twill cotton and is sometimes known as Marcella.
Dobby Weave can use many different fibres such as Cotton, Nylon or Silk. A lot of Dobby
fabrics use a combination of these to achieve different properties depending on the
requirements of the fabric.
Types of fabric produced on a Dobby Loom include Birdseye Cotton, Matelasse, Moss Crepe
and Baranthea.
 Dobby weaving machine

Properties of Dobby Woven Fabrics

 Inexpensive to produce
 Small geometric patterns
 More texture than Plain weave fabrics
 Less complex than Jacquard Fabrics
 Different colours available
 Hundreds of different patterns can be made
 Flexible
 Versatile
 Good Drape
 Slight Stretch
 Resistant to creasing
 In Jaipuria industry, machines used for dobby weave are-Alpha, Sulzer and Somet.
VELVET LOOM:
Velvet has always been a luxury fabric. Difficult to produce, woven of lustrous silk, and with
a rich depth of color and texture from the cut or uncut woven pile, velvet was only available
to the very wealthy until quite recently.
Velvet is woven on a special loom that weaves two thicknesses of the material at the same
time. The two pieces are then cut apart to create the pile effect, and the two lengths of
fabric are wound on separate take-up rolls. This complicated process meant that velvet was
expensive to make before industrial power looms became available, and well-made velvet
remains a fairly costly fabric. Velvet is difficult to clean because of its pile, but modern dry
cleaning methods make cleaning more feasible. Velvet pile is created by warp or vertical
yarns and velveteen pile is created by weft or fill yarns.
Velvet can be made from several different kinds of fibers, traditionally, the most expensive
of which is silk. Much of the velvet sold today as "silk velvet" is actually a mix of rayon and
silk. Velvet made entirely from silk is rare and usually has market prices of several hundred
US dollars per yard. Cotton is also used to make velvet, though this often results in a less
luxurious fabric. Velvet can also be made from fibers such as linen, mohair, and wool.
These velvets, woven from pure silk, dyed deep, royal colors, embellished with threads gilt
in fine silver, and patterned with cut and uncut sections of pile, sent a clear message. One
look at the richly shifting colors, the luxurious texture, and the elaborate decoration made it
clear that this was fabric fit to adorn a king, well out of reach for the poor or even the
middle class. This attitude continued well through the history of velvet, in the Renaissance,
into the Napoleonic era, and beyond.
 In Jaipuria industry, machines used for velvet weave is metex wire-flex 14.

Velvet weaving machine;

9.INSPECTION: -
Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid rejects
due to fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing. Fabric inspection is
done for fault/defect rate, fabric construction, fabric weight, shrinkage, end to end or edge
to edge shading, colour, hand feel, length/width, print defect and appearance. Fabric
inspection ensures to minimize the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to
fabric faults. Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures not only finished garment
quality but also reduce rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries.
Why is fabric inspection important?

Fabric Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid

rejects due to fabric quality and faced with an unexpected loss in manufacturing.
Fabric inspection is done for fault/defect rate, fabric construction, fabric weight, shrinkage,
end to end or edge to edge shading, color, hand feel, length/width, print defect and
appearance.
Fabric inspection ensures to minimize the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due
to fabric faults. Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures not only finished garment
quality but also reduce rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries.
Four-Point System: Four-Point System, a standard established under ASTM D5430 –
07(2011), is a standardized Test Methods for fabric Visually Inspecting and Grading. Four-
Point System is widest acceptance in fabric inspection due to its practical, impartial, and
worldwide recognized.

To use this system someone have to know following things:

 Fabric inspection method or preparation
 Vast idea on nature of fabric defects (how an error looks and its appearance)
 Criteria of giving penalty points based on defects and defect length
 Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a fabric roll or
than
 A Check sheet or format for recording data

Defect Classification: The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according
to the size, quality, and significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points is assigned
for any single flaw. A defect can be measured either length or width direction; the system
remains the same. Only major errors are considered. No penalty points are assigned to
minor defects. Whenever errors are recognized during fabric inspection under 4 points
system and defect must be assigned a number of points depending on the severity or
length.

Only major defects are taking into account. A serious defect is any defect that would cause a
final garment to be considered a second.
 SBCWWUECIBCIDLIC

Stain removal

Objectives:
The main objectives of inspection is the-
 Detection of Defects
 Correcting of defect or defective garments as early as possible in the manufacturing process
so that time and money are not wasted later.
 Inspection loop

 In Jaipuria industry, machine used for inspection purpose is ALMAC (Vadodara, India).
Chemicals used are tetrachloro-ethylene and white petrol for removing black stain.
Other chemicals used are +KRER Swiss. Major defects that are taken care of are stains,
slubs, missing ends, loops, float, ridge marks, protruding threads. Margins are used to
identify on small defects that cant be corrected.

Technical Specifications of ALMAC:

 Variable Speed from 0 - 50 meters / min
 1500 mm & 6000 mm sizes engineered by us
 Inspection platform height 1.0 m
 Underneath lighted area is 450 mm in height
 Power requirements as per country of use

10.PRINTING: -

DIGITAL TEXTILE PRINTING: -

When digital images are reproduced on physical surface, it is called digital printing.
The physical surface can be in forms like paper, cloth, plastic, film, etc. In digital textile printing,
once the design is created, it can be directly printed on the fabric from the computer.
This process does not require any other step. Just as an image is printed on the paper easily, one
can print designs on fabric.

To print the designs on the fabric digitally, a dye-sublimation printer is used, which carries out
the printing process by using heat to transfer design onto the fabric. In digital printing, it is
necessary to pre-treat the fabric. This will ensure that the fabric holds the ink well, and a
variety of colors can be attained through the pre-treatment process.

Digital textile printing is considered to be the 'next generation' printing which is quite different
from the conventional fabric printing. With fabric printing going digital, many textile
entrepreneurs are coming forward to invest in digital printing technology, as it is the most
budding method of printing. In India, the textile industry is embracing digital printing
technology by printing novel designs on saris and dress materials to meet the demands
of domestic and international markets.

Reactive dye printing is a method of printing a dye or wax by using mixes thereof to
createcolors. With a binder and a heat-activated printing additive, images can be
permanently bonded to the substrate (typically textiles, but can include cellulose, fibers,
polyester, and even proteins). These reactions are generally heat-activated.

In Jaipuria, the printing machines used are MS JP5 evo, DBP-1600.The printing software was
Newstampa with .tiff, the design file name. The distance between fabric and printing area is
3mm. Inks are imported from Switzerland, Sibaka (huntsman).Original cost of ink per 10 litres
is approx. 40,000/-.

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS: -

1. MS JP5 evo-
Production Speed up to 8 colors 55 lin. met./h
Production Speed CMYK 100 lin. met./h
Printing heads Up to 4
Dpi resolution 600 x 600 dpi
Graylevels 16
Features - Open ink system
- Embedded remote diagnostic
- Embedded web server for cost report
Printing width 180 cm
 PRINTING FLOW CHART(REACTIVE)

1.PRINTING (STANTER MACHINE)

 Maintains the pH alkali 9-10

2.PRINT

3.STEAMING
 At 102 degree celcius
 Time duration- 12 min
 Creates bonding between diparticles to fabric
4.WASHING
 Removes excess dyes and chemicals

5.DRY STANTER
 At 80 degree celcius

6. INSPECTION

11. EMBROIDERY: -

The embroidery process begins with an idea or a piece of artwork. That artwork then has to
be "digitized" which is the specialized process of converting two dimensional artwork into
stitches or thread. The digitizing computer software will allow numerous machines to
embroider (stitch) the logo/design repetitively onto the various garments.
The digitizing of an image can be simple to very complicated (more expensive) depending on
the size and the detail of the image. When an image is digitized, our technicians/craftsmen
use a digitizing computer program that assists in accurately converting your logo or
electronic artwork into a system of stitches that the embroidery machine can read. This
activity is as much an art form as it is a science. Skill and creativity are essential.
The embroidery digitizing, is normally a one-time process. It requires relatively clean
artwork as a starting point. While, a business card, letterhead, or a decal will suffice as this
artwork, camera-ready or computer generated graphics from a program such as Corel Draw
or Adobe Photoshop may result in truer finished embroidery.
While the digitizing process automates the machine stitching, much of the process
continues to be hands on. Before the sewing can begin, specific thread colors must be
loaded by hand into the machines. A spool of thread for each color for each sewing head
must be loaded. The machine itself is programmed by the operator to sew the design in a
particular color sequence and a particular sewing speed. The garments must then be
"hooped" individually, again by hand, and then loaded into the machine. Once the design
has completed sewing, the garment is taken off the machine, un-hooped, and then sent to
the next step in the production process.

THE ACTUAL EMBROIDERY STITCHING CONSISTS OF:

1) Fixing the area of the garment to be embroidered in a device called a hoop.

2) Attaching the hooped garment to the embroidery machine so that it can be embroidered.
3) Removing extraneous stitches accumulated during the embroidery process and removing
the backing material used to stabilize the fabric during embroidery.

In Jaipuria industry, machine used for embroidery work is TLMX-915 and for dori work its
SWF/ TB Series (Multi-head automatic). There is a total of 18 machines, out of which Tajima-
8 machines and SWF- 10 machines. Number of workers in the embroidery department is 60.
This machines provides 500 stitches per minute and threads used are polyester, rayon,
viscose and cotton thread. Production in an average is 6 metre fabric.

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:

TLMX-915
Models TLMX - 915
Needles 9
Pairs 15
Lock-stitch chenille heads 15
Multicolor heads 15
Head Interval 550
Embroidery space mm
 D x W(mm) 850 X 550 (230)
Continuous (w) 8,250

12.PACKAGING: -

Fabric packaging is the process of wrapping, compressing, filling or creating of goods for the
purpose of protection and their appropriate handling. This is the final process in the
production of fabric, which prepares the finished merchandise for delivery to the customer.
It is an important part of the fabric manufacturing process. Fabric packaging is also use to
get lot of attention from the customer. These operations come under the materials handling
methods and are no less important than other systems used in the factory. After completing
the entire manufacturing task, apparel is required to be packed. After packing, it is placed in
cartons as per instructions and then it is stored in a store section before it is delivered to the
respective buyer.

Packaging refers to the container that carries a product. Two basic objectives of packaging
are preventing any damage to the product during transportation and enhancing the
features of the product to the consumer for a sale.

Requirements of Garment Packing:

Cardboard box, woven bags, polythene and wooden palatte are most commonly used for
fabric packing either at the completion of production or when they arrive at the finished
goods stores. A carton package made of quite strong corrugated material is normally
preferred while transporting the boxed or hanging garments in bulk form. The packed fabric
boxes are sealed by contact adhesive paper tape or bound with a plastic tape.

 Velvet box cost Rs 500

 Normal box cost Rs 100-200.
13.SHIPMENT: -

Company information
It is important to understand the status of the company (registered corporation, limited
liability company, or sole proprietorship), designated person with signature authority, the
company’s board members and officers if applicable. It is also important to make a note of
any other names the company is registered under.

Product
Before shipping products, a shipper must choose which products they require and place the
order with a manufacturer. It is important to have well-defined contracts and incoterms
with the manufacturer.
When placing an order, make a note of the shipment’s details such as size, weight, number
of pallets, etc., as well whether or not the goods require a certificate of origin. This
information will be necessary later. The manufacturer will provide a ship date stating when
the products will be ready for pick up by a forwarder, and the shipper should ask the
manufacturer to create a Packing List and a Commercial Invoice for the order.

The shipping process

Step 1: Request quotes
Clarify details of shipment, including the ship date, detailed origin and destination
addresses, and the dimensions of your freight. Once this is done, you should start getting
quotes from forwarders. You can either do this by calling, emailing forwarders; waiting for
few days for quotes to get back to compare.

Step 2: Choose the quote that you prefer

With all the quotes that you've gathered, you can pick the one that best fit your target rate
or preferred transit time.
Step 3: Prepare necessary documents for the shipping process
Step 4: Confirm the shipment details on Fleet
Step 5: Book your freight on Fleet
Step 6: Track and manage your shipment online, 24/7
Once you receive a booking confirmation email from Fleet, you can start tracking your
shipment online and real-time. Other shipment management features are also available on
the platform: invoice, document and contact organization.
Step 7: Shipment passes through customs inspection at port of entry
Step 8: Receive and pay the bill for customs duties and taxes
The bill will include duties and taxes directly from the forwarder. Bill must be paid directly to
forwarder. Most forwarders accept payment via check or bank transfer.
Step 9: Receive the shipment