A Summer Internship Report at Shahi Exports PVT LTD, Bengaluru (UNIT-7A)

SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT
At
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT LTD, BENGALURU
(UNIT-7A)
A Summer Internship Report for partial Fulfillment of the requirement for the award of Degree in
Masters of Fashion Technology-Apparel Production
Department of Fashion Technology
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
BATCH – 2009-11
SUBMITTED BY:
SUBRAMANIUM GS
M.F.Tech (A.P.)
1
Summer Internship Report 2010
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
PREFACE
National Institute of Fashion Technology is a premier institute under Ministry of Textiles, Govt.
of India and is responsible for human resource development for apparel industry in India.
Department of fashion Technology is imparting education in crucial areas of technology
application in garment manufacturing.
The industry internship is aimed towards blending the classroom principles with industry
application for the students. This internship helps industry to analyze day-to-day activities with
the help of internees who in turn will learn practical application of different principles and will be
able to draw inferences.
This report attempts to present my experiences as an internee in India’s premier export house,
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT.LTD, BENGALURU. I basically worked with the production
department but it involved interaction with the other departments as well.
The aim of this internship program was to gain practical knowledge in our area of specialization
i.e. production. It gave me an opportunity to be a part of an esteemed organization and get the
first-hand knowledge of working under various department of the entire exports house. It gave me
a feel of work culture and the actual environment of working of export-oriented unit. Through this
program I also got to apply theoretical knowledge into practice.
Internship was a great learning experience for me. It helped me to practically see what was
available in the books. I could also learn many new practical aspects of the industry which can't
be learnt through books. At the end internship provides a gateway for the industry.
The final chapter of this report discusses in detail about my project which was done along with a
student from NIFT Bengaluru and is titled “COST OF QUALITY EVALUATION” in various
departments of unit 7-A and to determine the cost of quality percentage for the factory. This
project helped me to know more about the working and functionality of various departments in
detail.
2
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
It has all been a great experience being at Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd., Bengaluru. I am
highly thankful to the management and staff for their appreciable support during my internship. I
would like to give my special thanks to Mr. SubhashTiwari (Director). Without his approval,
my internship would have been impossible.
Along with him I must not forget Mr. P. Shivagurunathan(Lean manager). He was my
guide and mentor, who helped me to continue with such a fine project. It was all because of him
that I learnt and inquired.
I thank all my respondents including people from Cutting, Sampling, Sewing, Finishing,
Washing, IE, Stores and Lab who have given me their valuable time by providing me with
sufficient knowledge about the working scenario. The list is unending as the workers were very
co-operative and it seems that without their help I couldn’t have managed to complete my project
and training.
Our sincere thanks go to, Mr. N A Khan (Course- Coordinator, MFT), Ms Riju
Jakhar (Assistant Professor), Ms. Chandni Khatri (Assistant Professor), Ms. Bhavna
Kapoor Verma (Associate Professor), who were our internship coordinators, and all other
faculty members, Master of fashion Technology- Apparel Production, department of fashion
technology, National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi.
Thanking you all.
With regards,
SUBRAMANIUM GS
3
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER TITLE PAGE NO
1
INTRODUCTION
1.1.COMPANY PROFILE 7
1.2.GENERAL
2 DEPARTMENTS
10
2.1. MERCHANDISING
14
2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
2.3. FABRIC SOURCING 18
2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT 21
2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT 24

2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT 29
2.7.PLANNING DEPARTMENT 32
2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT 35
2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE
38
2.10. CAD ROOM
42
2.11. CUTTING ROOM
44
2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
51
2.13. IED DEPARTMENT
60
2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
62
2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT
2.16.QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT 66
2.17.FINISHING DEPARTMENT 68
3 PROJECT
3.1.TITLE 70
65
3.2. METHODOLOGY
3.2.1. SELECTION OF THE STYLES 73
3.2.2. COLLECTION OF DATA
82
4
3.2.3.TIME STUDY ANALYSIS FOR CHECKING 86

3.2.4.COMPILATION AND ANALYSIS OF DATA
3.3.CONSOLIDATED COQ DEPARTMENT WISE 116
4 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

4.1.FINDINGS 119
4.2.RECOMENDATIONS 122
4.3.CONCLUSION 123
5 FORMATS
5
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT LTD., BENGALURU
VISION
 Be the global best in bringing delight to human life by weaving dreams of

Fashion & feelings of comfort.
QUALITY POLICY
 We are an organization of noble culture with competent human resources,

multi products expertise and continuous process improvement, committed
delight customers by consistently delivering high quality product on time.
QUALITY OBJECTIVE
 Delivering quality product on time

 Minimizing quality cost
 Increasing productivity
 Continuous improvement
 Employee development
6
CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
1.1.COMPANY PROFILE:
Name of the Company : SHAHI EXPORT PVT. LTD. (UNIT-7A)

Year of Establishment : Jan, 2006, Shahi (wovens) Unit-7A
1974 (Faridabad), 1988 (Bangalore)
No. of Units :Delhi & NCR -14, Bangalore- 25 (19Woven’s+6 Knits)
Managing Director : Mr. Harish Ahuja
Type of Organization :Pvt.Ltd. Export Oriented
Annual Turnover(All units ) :Rs1500.Crore
Total Workforce (Unit-7A) :2500
Total Batch/Lines (Unit-7A) :20
Capacity (Unit-7A) : 1.5 lakh Pcs /Month (Approx)
Address (Unit-7A) :Belandur Gate, Sarjapur Main road, Bangalore. 560035
1.2. GENERAL
Established in Delhi in 1974, Shahi Exports stand vertically integrated as one of the
largest manufacturer and Exporter in India, offering ready to wear garments for Ladies, Men and
Children. Bangalore operations began on 1st July 1988 with 250 associates and 104 machines. In
the last 30 years it has expanded by 60 times, with 33 integrated State of Art production units.
Factories are equipped with State of the art manufacturing technology automated machines,
thereby ensuring consistency and optimum efficiency. Shahi has invested resources in creating its
own fabric base for both woven and knits. Shahi has its own fabric dyeing and printing mill and
knitting facility. Shahi also offer widest choice of fabrics for garments mainly shirts with
continuous fabric Developments and Innovations through its own Design Studio.
Shahi, Faridabad is the Corporate Head Office and all the marketing merchandising
functions are done there. At Bangalore, there are 19 garments Units handling woven garments and
6 Units in Knitted. All the activities of Woven Division at Bangalore are coordinated from the
7
main office from Unit-7 at Belandur Gate, Sarjapur Main road, Bangalore. 560035, and the
activities of Knits division is monitored from Knits Head, Unit No. 12 # 37/1B, Arekere,
Bannerghatta Road, - 560 076, INDIA Marketing office located in NEW YORK ,USA will
procure the indirect orders and sent it to the Delhi office for execution, planning will be done for
execution of the orders and the head office at Delhi will allocate and distribute the orders to new
Delhi or Bangalore production plants.
Unit 7 is the Bangalore head office, where the orders are received. From Bangalore head office
orders are distributed to various production units according to their production capacity.
Centralized department rendering service to all the units in Bangalore

Production Service
 Accessories store  Sourcing department
 Washing department  Accounts department
 Embroidery department  Documentation department
 Cutting department  Personnel department
 Laboratory
 Fabric inspection department
The organization works on a single ERP system, MOVEX, which unifies all the departments
working and leads to efficient functioning. This allows handling the manufacturing, logistics and
distribution, shipping, invoicing, and accounting for the company.
There are different Strategic Business Units in Shahi Exports as follows:

LSD – Ladies Specialty Division
LFD – Ladies Fashion Division
LDD – Ladies Dress Division
MNB – Men’s and Boys Division
PRODUCTS:
Unit-7A ,is mainly focused on LADIES TOPS
1. Blouses
2. Dresses
3. Shirt
8
4. Tunic
5. Camp shirt
Other units product are:

1. Tops casual wear 7. Polo
2. Dress shirts 8. Hoody
3. Denim wear 9. Crew neck
4. Wrinkle free shirts and blouses 10. Cargo shorts
5. Bottoms casual wear 11. Night wear
6. Ladies /Men’s shirt 12. Fleece jacket
BUYERS
1. GAP 9. LANE BRYANTS 16. SEARS
2. OLD NAVY 10. KOHLS 17. TOMMY HILFIGER
3. A&F 11. VETIR 18. WALMART
4. CATO 12. JCP 19.AMERICAN EAGLE
5. DECATHLON 13. H&M 20. ESPIRIT
6. HOLLISTER 14. TARGET 21. MARKS & SPENCER
7. ANN TAYLOR 15. BANANA REPUBLIC
8. RALPH LAUREN
9
CHAPTER 2
2.1. MERCHANDISING
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and
presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from
start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers
work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams
are made according to the buyers being handled.
Two type of merchandising done in shahi exports
 Marketing merchandising.
 Product merchandising.
Marketing merchandising
Main function of marketing merchandising is
 Product Development
 Costing
 Ordering
Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has direct
contact with the buyer.
Product merchandising
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from
sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till
shipment.
10
A Merchandisers key responsibilities are as follows:-
 Product Development
 Market and product Analysis
 Selling the concept
 Booking orders
 Confirming Deliveries
 Designing and Sampling
 Costing
 Raw Material
 Flow Monitoring
 Production Follow Ups
 Payments Follows
Department structure
MARKETING MERCHANDISER
HEAD MERCHANDISER
SENIOR MERCHANDISER
JUNIOR MERCHANDISER
11
In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior

merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and coordinating with the buyer, the
garment styles that meets buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point.
Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with
buyers, overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the
necessary paper work, provide breakdown information to all other department and get samples
approved for fit, color and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers,
approval of production samples, and development of fabric and yarns are also included in product
development, which are co-coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate
with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall
we can say that merchandising is the core department of the entire industry.
Costing
The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of
production before the buyer sends on his PO .During the pre-development stage an initial costing
occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece.
These costs includes general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost
etc. Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a final costing is done
accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.
12
Start
Obtain tech pack from buyer
Costing Sampling
Analyze fabric Analyze cost of Obtain general Develop sample as

consumption from trims and fabric sewing data from per the tech pack
CAD IED
Prepare cost sheet Develop proto

from sample sample
Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval
Confirmation Yes Approv No Cost sheet

of order al reworked
Obtain PCD & Source trims & Book washing & Obtain GSD
details from fabric from embroidery capacity if from IED
production unit concerned dept. required
Execution of order by entering details in MOVEX
Prepare sample as per buyer requirements
Forward the sample to buyer for approval
Hold pre production Comments received from buyer

Yes Approv No
meeting with the should be incorporated and fit
production unit al sample reworked
Follow up with Submit required Offer garments Follow up

Execute production documents to for final on the
bulk order En
departments & documentation inspection. payments
d
update the buyer dept Truck out for goods
13
2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
BASIC WORK FLOW;
In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments
and it plays a vital in the upliftment of a unit.
Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production

department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to
check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer’s
specification.
Merchandiser procures order from the buyer.The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric
details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this
information along with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and
approval in to a style package and hands it over to the Sampling department head.
In Shahi, Sampling department is centralized in unit-7 of Shahi, Bangalore for wovens.

Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments
are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start
off the production. The sampled garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of
production skills and techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating
correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric
consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used.
It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled and makes a complete
make through garment. This department makes samples on the basis of specifications and
requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.
14
TYPES OF SAMPLES
Proto Sample:
Fit Sample:
Pilot Run Sample:
Pre Production Sample:
Pre Size set:
Size Set:
Garment Package Test Sample:
Show Room Sample:
TOP Sample:
Shipment Sample:
Counter Sample:
Sales Sample:
Machine details
There were a total of 80 machines in the sampling department.
 5 cutting tables
 8 pattern making tables
 1 conveyor belt fusing machine
Finishing machines
 11 ironing tables
 1 shirt folding machine
15
Other machines
 SNLS machine
 DNLS machine
 Bartack machine
 Overlock machine
 Kansai Special
 Zigzag Lockstitch machine
 Blind stitch machine
 and others
The Details Attached to the Garment Sample
After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached
to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded
and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).
 Ref no.
 Color
 Fabric
 Composition
 Description
 Quantity
 Style no/ Size
 Store
16
17
Tech pack received from merchant
Develop patterns
Costing CAD Develop sample

marker
Develop fit/proto sample
If any comments If no comments

comments
Revise Fit/Proto PP sample

sample
comments
Revise PP sample Size set sample

comments
Incorporate buyer Sealer sample

comments
comments
Incorporate buyer Bulk production

comments (shrinkage to be added
if it’s a wash program)
Fig 3: Workflow of sampling
18
2.3. FABRIC SOURCING
Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
merchandise i.e fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising
department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and
cost. A fabric sourcer must have a knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute
their function effectively.
Fabric Store:
 The capacity of the store is about 100,000Mts.

 The Sourcing of Fabric is being done mainly from:
1. Yarn Dyed – Salem & Tirupur
2. Printed Fabric – Ghaziabad(Shahi own Mill)
3. Denim fabric – Arvind Mills, Ashima Textile
4. Imported Fabric – According to buyer’s specification from China, Hong kong
etc
Examples of certain Mills that specializes in some particular types of fabric is as follow:
 Vardhman mills(H.P) specializes in Solid Dyed 40s Poplin

 Arvind mills specializes in all types of fabric Denims, Knits, Bottom wear
 Ashima mills specializes in all type of high end fabrics
STORAGE
Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in two areas (a)Checked
fabric and (b) Unchecked fabric. Such a system maintenance of the store makes it easy to locate
the fabric whenever needed in future.
FABRIC ISSUE
The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on challan. All fabric is not issued at one go; instead it
is issued as required. The challan contains information regarding style no, color, buyer’s name, and
quantity to be issued and issued for which production unit.
19
FABRIC SOURCING
Fabric requisition from merchandiser
Order placed
Fabric receive invoice/challan
Unloading after checking
Tally with supplier invoice for quality
Send bill to gate for entry
Receive fabric in store
Forward fabric for inspection
Inspection report sends to the concern merchant or sourcing dept.
After comments reentry in the system with final comments if rejected or accepted
If accepted
Relocation in store
Issue against job order
20
Sampling Star
Bulk
t
Technical analysis. Vendor Receiving order, technical analysis/

evaluation/selection of process starts for technical
vendor development, vendor selection
Placement
Rate quotation from different mills
If Ok If not Ok
D/L
TNA/Execution plan/placement of
order for production
Submit to buyer Redo D/L

If Ok If not Ok
On line
Sampling yardage/ Placement, lab
inspecti
lab tests dips/strike offs
on
submission to buyer Lab testing as per buyer
requirement Technical monitor/
Final approval by
corrective
buyer Rate finalisation, measures
sampling yardage, Despatch to vendor’s godown
lab tests
Final submission to Mending/cleaning/washing

buyer
If not required If required

End Process
Sanforising/dyeing/prints/OXO/w
ashing/wet processing
Lab test as per buyer

requirement
If not Ok
Third party inspection as per Third party inspection as per
buyer standards buyer standards
Reject
Pass Pass
Vendor evaluation/ End

feedback to vendor
21
2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department:
The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference
is that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing
department works for sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the
same. The working is as follows.
The merchandisers give the techpack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular
style to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further process and for
costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the
price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its
production. In the process of doing the in-house price , suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button
is Rs.32 then a CST of 2% + 14% of exercise duty + 10% of per unit price is added as the
transportation charges and this all together makes the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5% is
also taken into consideration).
This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing
purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is confirmed by the buyer
based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.
After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other
concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the trims and
accessories with respect to colour, size, MOQ, etc., will be given by the merchandiser to the
purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for all
the orders irrespective of the buyer.
Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent to the concerned
department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw materials is sent by the
supplier then the lab dips is done and is approved by the buyer. In case of getting the accessories
22
and trims for the sampling purposes then only a small quantity say about 100 – 200 pieces are
ordered and the supplier charges the minimum amount or sometimes gives it free of cost.
After receiving the goods from the supplier they are checked for the quantity and also
checked according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of them
are not meeting this criterion. This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received
in-house timely. The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser
according to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this
breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being mentioned then
the order is being placed with the supplier several times for small quantities and PO’s have to be
sent all the time so, in order to overcome this a breakups are being is given.
Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and
when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular style and then the
department also has to maintain the receipts and also they have to maintain the documents of the
inspections that are being carried out for those materials.
The communication between the merchandiser and the purchase department happens
mainly through phone calls but no matter however small the situation is, both the departments
maintain a e-mail also i.e., along with the phone call they send an e-mail also. Communication
between the supplier and the purchase department happens purely through e-mails. All these e-
mails, receipts, PO’s, PI’s, Formats, Order formats, etc., are maintained as a hard copy also.
23
Start
Indents MRS/IOM/Mails from units
Authorization from HOD/CEO for capital items
Call for quotes in case of new items
Evaluation of quotes by HOD
Raising PO on supplier & taking

approval from manager commercial
Follow-up with supplier for deliveries
Material receipt in the unit
Material inspected accompanied by

appropriate documents
If Yes If No
If
Approve
d
Goods inwards
Returned to supplier
and inform purchase
Acknowledged
documents forwarded
to purchase
Stock updated in the

unit
End
24
2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
The fabric audit department for the woven division of SEPL is centralized. It is at unit – 7. The
main objectives of this department are:
 Analysis of defects in the fabric by various methods.

 Selection of fabric according to AQL 1.5.
Inspection is done on the following grounds:
 100% shade segregation is done.

 100% width segregation is done.
 15% fabric inspection is done for defects.
 10 – 15% shrinkage test for light weight fabrics and mostly 100% for heavy weight fabrics.
 The fabric is checked in full width form only.
 The quantity is checked, whether the mentioned length of the roll is correct or not.
SHADE SEGREGATION
The process for shade segregation in the fabric audit department is described follows:
 The fabric is received from the fabric store with Lab report.
 Swatch of fabric of about minimum 10% or at times 100% rolls from each lot / color are cut
for lab tests if any.
 ¼ meters stripe across width of each roll or taka selected is cut and shade segregation is
done. All the cut pieces are aligned and made into a family or group and declare shades.
Sometimes, swatch cards or shade bands are prepared and then fabric strip from each roll is
matched.
 In some cases the shade groups are made after washing also.
 While doing shade segregation, color matching done by using paramount color matching
cabinet which is provided with D-65, TL-84, CWF, TL-83, UV, INCA light sources.
 The shade bands or lot bands are then sent to concerned merchandisers, sourcing
departments, cutting departments for approval and references.
 All the shade details are sent to the concerned people.
FABRIC INSPECTION
25
In SEPL, four point grading system is followed in the fabric audit department. All fabrics are
inspected under the 4 point inspection system. Penalty points are assigned based on the standard
fault size for every type of fault and colored stickers are then put for the identification of serious
defects in the subsequent process.
Fault description under the 4 point inspection system :
LEVEL POINT INDICATION

0-3 inches 1 Yellow
3-6 inches 2 Green
6-9 inches 3 Navy
Over 9 inches 4 Red
 Here the fabric acceptable level is maintained at:

o 30 points per 100 sq yards for mill made/ imported fabric.
o 40 points per 100 sq yards for power loom fabric.
 For checking whether the fabric is within the acceptable level, points/100 sq. yards is
calculated as:
Points / 100 sq yard = (total no. of points * 3300) / (width in inches * length
in mtrs)
Example:-
PASS :- (57*3300) / (44*300) = 14 points / 100 sq yards
FAIL :- (47*3300) / (44*45) = 78 points / 100 sq yards
 Width measurement of all the rolls is taken at least 1 time and minimum width is recorded
which helps in freezing the cuttable width of the fabric.
 The fabric length of the roll piece is checked and compared against length declared by
supplier.
 For every fabric order one meter of fabric is kept aside for lab testing and quality standard
reference randomly.
 Minimum of the ten bits from different bales of fabric is kept from every consignment order
for shrinkage test.
 The inspection results are then filled in goods inspection reports (GIR).
 The GIR reports have following categories:
26
METERAGE
FOLD LENGTH (IN WIDTH (IN
BALE NO. PIECE NO. EPI PPI
IN STICKER ACTUAL CMS) INCHES)
THAN CLASSIFICATION
POINTS/100
ACCEPTED BELOW REJECTED ABOVE 40
SQ. YARDS
40 POINTS POINTS
There is a space in the bottom for “Remarks”; where whether the roll is acceptable or rejected is
specified.
 When the fabric is inspected as per the 4 – point system, the defects are marked with
different colored stickers for different types of defects as:
Red Sticker Weaving Defect
Blue Sticker Processing Defect
Green Sticker Other Defects
Arrow Sticker Centre-Selvedge shade variation.
 The fabric is issued for cutting, if both Lab & Audit reports are O.K. However, the cuttings
are kept for reference.
INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS
 The width is checked and average width is mentioned.

 The fold length is checked and the average is mentioned.
 The reed is checked and +/- 2 threads is acceptable.
 Center to selvedge color variation is not acceptable.
 For the bowing level is checked for by the following set acceptance levels:
WIDTH LEVEL
Up to 44 inches 1” acceptable
45 to 60 inches 1.5” acceptable
60 to 72 inches 2” acceptable
27
 After inspection of the roll/ takka is done, if the roll is passed/ rejected, a sticker is put on the
respective roll. It contains following information:
Tag used:
I-Bangalore
Pass fabric
Bale no.- Pc no.-  This sticker is of green color for the pass fabrics and
Fabric - Qty- magenta for the rejected fabric rolls or takkas.
Colour- Width-
No. of points- Date-
MACHINE DETAILS: RAMSONS CHECK MATE
By- Shade-
Face side-
Type R 501
Power input 1 Ø , 220 v, 50 Hz
Power output 3 Ø, 220 v, 50 Hz
Gear motor 1 hp, 100 rpm.
Power consumption 0,75 kw
PRIMARY AND SECONDARY LIGHT SOURCES FOR VARIOUS BUYERS
PRIMARY SECONDARY
S. NO BUYER NAME
LIGHT LIGHT
1 GAP
CWF INCA
2 HOLLISTER
3 A&F INCA
4 CATO
5 DECATHLON D 65
TL 84
6 LANE BRYANT
7 KOHLS
8 VETIR D 65 TL 84
9 JCP U 30 INCA
10 H&M TL 83
11 GYMBOREE
12 TARGET UL 30
D 65
13 SEARS
14 TOMMY HILFIGER
CWF
15 WALMART
16 AMERICAN EAGLE
D 65 INCA
17 ESPIRIT EUROPE’S
28
Start
Receive fabrics
Conduct shrinkage test Verify whether quantity Forward one meter of

on minimum 2 If No received match with If Yes each consignment for
bits/bale or minimum quantity ordered lab test
10 bits of consignment
Inform to stores and prepare Inspection based on four

If No If Yes
goods received note (in case of points system. Match
imported fabric) bulk with approved dye
lot, width of fabric etc.
Name shade lot as ABC
Send to merchant for buyer’s

approval
Forward to
If No If approved If Yes
cutting
department
Reject lot
End
29
2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
The accessory stores here is the central stores in the seventh unit is the centralized unit.
The accessory stores generally receives the materials from three different locations and they can
be classified into,
30
 Faridabad
 Domestics
 Imports
The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of documents
i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and recieval whenever they are done they are done
according to the documents that has been received from the merchants and also the department
also makes the document for anything they carry out within their roof.
The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants would
have sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the
accessory department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular
material they will make a note of it in their MOVEX that they will be receiving that material and
this is termed as PRE GRN.
Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person
verifies the materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which they would have
received from the merchant as already stated.
After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then they
carry out a quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the type of the
buyer. The company carries this inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for all the types of goods
received.
AQL quantity chart:
Lot size or quantity being audited Inspect Accept
less than 151 8 0
151-280 20 0
31
281-500 32 1
501-1200 32 1
1201-3200 50 2
3201-10000 80 3
10001-35000 125 5
35001-150000 200 7
150001-5000000 315 10
500000-above 500 14
After inspecting the materials for the quality as per AQL then the allocation of trims based on the
nature of the item.
Then the department prepares the GRN according to the materials received and against the
documents received obtained from the merchants and they also do the bill entry. The bills
whatever they enter is been forwarded to the accounts department for the payments and to fulfill
other formalities and a copy of it is also given to the sourcing department in order to inform them
about the materials in-housed.
After this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand they are,
 Process selection :In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery
challan and then they keep all the documents and also forward the trims along with the
document for processing.
32
 Production issues: Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been
approved by merchants and then prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims ready to
Start
Accept & receive materials against documents
Prepare PRE GRN
Verify materials against invoice/ Delivery challan & packing list
Carry out quality & quantity inspection as per AQL 1.5
Allocation of trims based on the nature of the item
Prepare GRN & do the bill entry. The same is forwarded

to accounts for payment
PROCESS PRODUCTION
SELECTION ISSUES
Prepare work order Identify trims which have been

approved by merchants
Prepare delivery challan

Prepare delivery challan & keep trims
ready to issue to the factories
Forward trims along with
documents for processing
Materials to be issued after
inspection by security against DC
End
33
issue to the factories. Materials to be issued after inspected by security against DC as

already mentioned.
2.7.PLANNING DEPARTMENT
34
Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps the
merchants to determine the costing of a particular style and they also tell the merchants if the
company is capable of producing the particular style in the given span of time and also helps
them to know the capacity of the production floor.
On receiving the orders, from the merchants they start to decide the date for having the
PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments which are directly involved which are,
planning, production and the finishing departments. Then the department will allocate the style
to the unit whichever has the capacity of completing the obtained project based on the line
openings and also buyer’s specifications and the skill of labor required for it.
The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Plan Cut Date), Order
Quantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular unit in
which that particular order has been placed with.
The planning department takes the approval or sits and conducts a meeting with three
other departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling dates for the
particular style this will take about 10 – 15 days from the merchandiser approves the order that
has to be followed.
Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity
based on the garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of components
in the garment, type of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment, types of machines
required to finish the garment, any specialized machine is required or not for the manufacturing
of the garment, difficulties involved during stitching of the garment if it is of a complicated style
and structure, the skill level required for the various operations of the garment and the ratio of
the operators with respect to their skill levels required for manufacturing the particular garment
for all the operations all together. Then they finally come to a conclusion about planning entire
style.
Secondly, they confirm the details given to the concerned units i.e., they confirm the
PCD, Order quantity, sample and other similar information from them in consultation with the
GM and FM.
Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision and then they also get a
confirmation from the embroidery, washing and finishing departments if the slots for the dates
on which they have planned for those particular styles is available and then after confirmation
35
they fix the particular dates on which the style has to reach the embroidery, washing and
finishing departments.
After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper confirmation
obtained from the departments the planning department will confirm the order plan with the
merchants and then provide MIS (Management Information System) report to the management
every fortnight, then they prepare a “Batch Commitment Sheet” and this sheet is prepared about
3 – 5 days before the cutting date. This commitment sheet includes the details regarding the
batch that has taken up the job of producing the particular style, the quantity which they are
committed to produce for a day and the labor details (which involves the number of operators
and to which operation they are assigned to and they skill level will also be mentioned). This
sheet will have to be updated once in a hour to know the hourly production of the batch.
Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a ‘Batch Variance Sheet”,
this sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this sheet the updating of
the style in the production floor is done and is given to the merchants on daily basis.
Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the order is completely
being executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped.
The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the raw materials to the
production floor and they must make sure that none of the days the batch /sewing line must sit
idle with a reason of raw material non-availability.
The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of the departments like the
IED, Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within the different
departments is done purely on the mail basis and sometimes through phone calls but any types of
mails regarding the changes in the line of the style or any such modifying sort of a situation then
the department maintains a hard copy of it for the future reference and confirmation.
36
Start
On receiving the orders, allocate the same to units

based on line openings and buyer’s ratings
Provide details to the respective units on PCD,

order quantity & sample
Take inputs from IED on Confirm the above details given to Confirm in consultation
productivity based on concerned units in consultation with embroidery,
garment analysis with GM & FM washing departments
Confirm order plan with merchandising team
Provide MIS report to management every

fortnight
Planning follow up with factory till order

execution
End
2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
37
The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments
that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there are several
tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available in the factory for
such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics or
accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized
ones with the buyers and the merchants approval.
The laboratory in this unit is the centralized one for the units that are located in
Bangalore city.
The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. The departments
and their main functions and applications with the laboratory are as follows.
 Fabric Sourcing department:

The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered later
may be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production. The sourcing department as soon as it
receives the fabric swatches from the supplier they will select the fabrics which they require for
the particular style and then order for a few meters and then after they receive the small amount
then they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that are to be carried out for that particular
fabric sample. The list of tests that the sourcing department generally asks for are as follows.
Count
Construction
Colour fastness to washing
Colour fastness to crocking
Dimensional stability to washing
Fabric strength
Fabric weight
 Accessory Stores:
The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they will have to do the
sampling process and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be
38
carried out for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory. The lists
of accessories and tests that are generally tested are as follows,
Button breaking test
Coloured laces and tapes are tested for colour fastness
Colour fastness test for elastics
Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability
Corrugated box
 Merchandising Department:
The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests
which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The
garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as
per the buyer specifications.
After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment
fabric samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer
specifies.
Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a
fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally send it in a
format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of the particular
material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, colour and other material
related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out the tests.
The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like:
 Types of tests.
 Urgency of the task.
 Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally.
 Duration of the tests that has to be carried out.
 Time required in getting the proper and the required output.
 Number of samples that has to be tested.
Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from any of the
departments they generally proceed on priority bases. If the results are required very soon and
the tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular sample is taken first and
39
then tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received involves more number of
tests and tests which involve long processing then such tests takes time about 2 – 3 days and then
after receiving the proper output they note down the readings in the record and then send it the
concerned department form where they have got it.
Start
Fabric Sourcing Accessory stores Merchandising
Test Test Carry on test

on fabric and
garment as per
buyer
Count Buttons
requirement
Color laces and

Construction
twill tapes On meeting
buyer
requirement,
Color fastness Color fastness
samples to be
to washing test and elastic
sent to external
lab to get
Color fastness approval
to crocking Lining fabrics
Dimensional
stability to Dimensional
washing Stability
Fabric Strength
Corrugated box
Fabric Weight
En
d
40
2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE
Apart form having quality system and the best practices,’ machine maintenance’ is also a
very important are to get ‘quality’ products. Unacceptable quality of products often results ill-
maintained machines. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward
reduced downtime and increased life respectively. Proper machine maintenance is also necessary
to avoid casualties at the floor. The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE includes;
 Care of the fittings

 Adjusting settings
 Oil changing
 Graph maintenance
 Outward/inward reports
 Needle weekly reports.
 Machine configuration chart
 Laser stock
 History card
 Needle log cards.
The maintenance department stock of m/c
MACHINE VARIATION TYPE UTILITY
LOCKSTITCH Single needle 1 needle, 1 bobbin Placket making, top
Doule needle 2 needle , 2 bobbin stitching, edge stitching,

label making, safety
-fixed Bar
stitch, attaching self-
-split Bar fabric neck binding tape
CHAINSTITCH Single needle 1 needle, 1 looper Neck rib, shoulder piping,
Double needle 1 needle, 1 looper cuff top stitching,
41
- tandom needle shoulder top stitching
- straight needle
OVERLOCK 3 thread 1 needle, 2 loopers Shoulder seam
4 thread 2 needle, 2 loopers Side seam, underarm

seam,elastication,shoulder
seam
5 thread 2 needle, 3 loopers Trouser seam
6 thread 3 needle, 3 loopers Armhole seam,shoulder

seam
FLAT LOCK 3 thread 2 needle, 1 loopers Neck binding, cuff

binding, bottom hemming
4 thread 2 needle, 1 loopers 1 Cover seam, bottom

Spreader hemming
5 thread 3 needle, 1 loopers 1 elastication

Spreader
6 thread 4 needle, 2 loopers 1 Side seam

Spreader
SPECIALISED Shell stitch 1 needle, 2 loopers Decorative purpose,

SEWING picotting 1 needle, 1 loopers dense overlock,
MACHINERY elastication, piping,
figotting 2 needle, 2 loopers
hemming, securing of
Pearl stitch 1 needle, 2 loopers
stitch etc
Blind hemming 1 needle, 2 loopers
Zigzag machine 1 needle, 1 bobbin
scalloping 1needle, 1 looper

(spreader)
Back latch 2 needle, 2 loopers
elastication 2 needle, 2 loopers
Buttonhole machine 1 needle, 1 bobbin Button hole making
Buttonstitch machine 1 needle, 1 bobbin Button attaching
42
Types of needles and their norms
Needle systems
MACHINE NAME NEEDLE BRAND NUMBER
Single needle lockstitch DBX1
Single needle chain stitch UYX128/TVX3
Single needle feed DBX1
Double needle lockstitch DPX1
Tandom needle lockstich UYX128/TVX3
Double needle chain stitch UYX128/TVX3
Overlock DCX1/DCX27
Flatlock UYX128/DVX43
Picotting UOX163/TVX7
Scolpping UVX128/DVX43
Smoking DVKX25/DVX57
Shell stitch LS-151
Pick/ saddle stitch DBX1
Bar tack DPX5/DPX17
Button stitch( shank button) TQX3
Button stitch DPX5/DPX7
Button stitch chain stitch TQX1/TQX7
Button hole DPX5
Zigzag DBX1
Six thread cover seam m/c UOX118
43
44
2.10. CAD ROOM

SHAHI EXPORTS has its own CAD department for varied style garments are made with help of
Optitex software package.
FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM
CAD department is responsible for the following functions:
 Determining cutting average for costing

 Making the most efficient cutting marker
 Development and alteration of patterns
 Development of size set pattern by grading
 Embroidery graphics making
 Digitizing the pattern
 Thread consumption
BASIC WORKFLOW
Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:
 Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.
 Graded measurement spec sheet..
 Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form ( open roll or tubular form),
tube size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.
Then the work of the CAD room begins.
Receive spec
sheet form
Receive patterns
from pattern
Digitize pattern to
feed in
45
Pattern correction
Pattern grading Output to

Graphtec
plotter
Cut ratio planning

Pattern sent to
merchandiser for
Market planning sampling
according to the
cut plan ratio
Output marker Output mini

to plotter WORK FLOW marker to
IN CAD
printer
DEPARTMENT
Send to cutting Send to

room for cutting merchandiser for
costing
46
2.11. CUTTING ROOM
Cutting is a process of separating parts form the fabric as replicas of the pattern pieces
BASIC WORK FLOW
Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production
manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of
styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the following details:
 Sampling average, weight of garment ( base fabric consumption only ), other trims
averages.
 Measurement sheet
 Design worksheet of the garment
 Purchase order
 Fabric requisition sheet
 CAD mini marker
 Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be
cut.
ACTUAL CUTTING PROCESS
Solid cutting
 Spreading
Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a

manner, which permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components
acceptable for assembly. For this, first of all a thin brown paper sheet is pasted on the
cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during
cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric layer on
this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.
The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine.
While manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine gives faster and more
47
accurate results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality of the fabric & length of the
marker as specified by the CAD. Where as the lay height depends upon the thickness of the
fabric and the capacity of the machine.
 Cutting
The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or
CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the
marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are
also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band
knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the fabric as
it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.
Spread
Place marker
Cut pattern pieces
Block cutting
Jacquard, stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreading machine due to
requirements of matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks
are spread and cut in single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time, matching
the stripes with those in the previous plies. Then block are cut out from this spread for specific
number of pieces. The size of the block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini
marker for the cutting of the blocks from the lay and placement of the patterns on the blocks.
Accordingly the cut blocks are manually marked on the top with marking chalk and using the
hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to the match the stripes and a rough
cutting of the fabric following the markings of the pattern is done. The cut shapes are again
checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to finish the
patterns.
48
Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved are also
more due to cutting in two stages.
Spread
Match
Mark blocks
Match
Mark patterns
Cut patterns
Match
Final precise shaping of patterns
Sorting and Ticketing
The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one
garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two
different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-
bolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of
marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The
worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the
49
cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important
means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.
Cut panel checking
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual
piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size,
incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not
within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component
checking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are
sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed
with the same number as the rejected ones.
Other mendable faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted
out during garment finishing or washing.
Bundling
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled
using ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle
will contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the
amount required by the production department when asked for.
Embroidery
The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for
embroidery as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and follow up
these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent are sent for embroidery, which are re-
cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same size are stitched
together temporarily before dispatch for the embroidery.
Fusing
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated
from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the
components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between
50
two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the
temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time.
The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re
bundled.
Details about machine in the cutting rooms:
Machine Quality Make
Spreading machine 2 F K Arna
Straight knives 10 Eastman
Band knives 1 F K Systema
CAM m/c 1 F K Systema
Fusing m/c 3 Fiblon
Technical features of CAM Cutter
Model: TP 3002, FTR 200/200 Make: FK Systema(Tukatech)
Number : 1
 Actual cutting area 2m/2m

 Actual vacuum strength 150 milibar (max)
 Single bristle diameter 1.3 mm
 Bristle length 40 mm
 No. of bristle in one replaceable unit 17*17(=289)
 Area of bristle unit that can be replaced 51.3 mm*50.64
 Maximum layer width after compression 7.5 cm
 Cutting speed 0- 40 m/min
 Blade sharpening frequency 2.5 m – 3 m (of cutting)
 Hard disk memory 850 MB
 Inboard computer 486 4 MB RAM 66 MHz
51
 Bristle conveyor movement while cutting yes

 Bristle conveyor speed 19 m/min
 Drilling yes
 List of consumables Knife sharpener wheel, Polythene
 Maximum speed of unloading conveyer 48 m/min
 Notch depth 2-6 mm
 Straight and reverse cutting
 Restarting of the cut from any marker point
 Rotational speed of the cutting motor 3000 rpm (max)
Technical Features of Spreader
Model : Automat 1 CO, SX Make: FK Arena
Number : 2
 Length of spreading table 40 meter

 Width of spreading table 6 feet(72”)
 Height of spreading table 3 feet(36”)
 Table top type smooth, card board type
 Spreading mode face one way, nap one way
 No of clamps 14
 Two air channels on the bottom side of the table surface, along with 12 air nozzles per
square meter.
 Five blow motors per table, each supplying air to the particular zone of the table.
Cutting package
from production
manager
Acquire fabric from

fabric store
52
Cut sample to
check
Require
Amende
nts
Yes
Send to CAD for
amendment
No
Receive
Cut for initial size
amendment
set
pattern from CAD
Assemble and
check
Yes
Require
amend
NO
ments
No
Issue job
order WORK FLOW IN
Cut plan CUTTING
DEPARTMENT
Bulk cutting
Sorting
53
Summer Internship Report 2010 Bundling
Issue
2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

The production floor does production in two types, once during pilot production where
they have to produce about 150 – 200 garments for the new style this will take about 40 – 55
days.
The production floor will receive the details like,
 the style or the garment,
 number of operators required,
 the batch for which the style has to be installed,
 any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,
 target for each day
 Breakup of the production quantity.
After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and
sorting section and the request is sent to the accessory stores for all the accessories that are
required for the particular style then they start the production for the new style.
Before starting the proper production the production floor does a process of batch-setting
for the floor which is training the operators for the new style that has to be produced bulk, this
teaching session will go on for about 3 – 4 days maximum. After this batch setting process the
production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e., may be for 50 pieces for the
entire day and then the production gradually increases from 50 – 100 – 150 and so on, this will
make the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has to be carried out for
the particular style.
Once the cut parts is received from the cutting and sorting section then the parts are
prepared and assembled according to the line that is planned. After the assembling of the parts is
done then there will be a line checking, where the shade matching and the measurements are
checked and sent.
During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are
 In-process checking.
 Endline checking. – Here there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.
54
The garment making is divided into three different stages and at these three stages the checking
is done.
The flow of material in the production floor is through the bundle system and each
operator gets a bundle containing similar pieces and there will be about 15 – 20 pieces in each
bundle and the operator completely finishes the job and sends it to the next operator to do the
next operation on them. Each bundle will contain same component of different garments. The
movement of the materials within the operators in the batch/line is generally zig – zag motion
which is followed. The checking person will be present at a position where the garment is
partially finished and it is as mentioned checked thrice in the line and sometimes more than three
and this depends on the buyer as well as the number of components present in the garment.
The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages the entire batch
which is been allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform,
1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.
2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach them
the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task.
3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to
them.
4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to get
him/her their material and ask them to work.
5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their best.
6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the management.
7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operator’s skill level whenever
asked for.
8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a
better person to fit into that vacant place.
9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.
10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a friendly
approach to them and also must make sure that none of them create any trouble for the
factory at any time.
The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular
line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of
the operators.
55
Start
Bulk Production
Cut parts received from

cutting
Parts preparation
Assembly
In-Line
checking End line checking & AQL audit
Button & button hole/ Bar tack

Washing
Rough checking
Ironing
Final checking
Measurement checking
Tagging
Packing
FSA Audit
Auditing by buyer QA
Truck out End
56
2.13. IED DEPARTMENT

The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives
the entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria,
operators skill level categorization and other related aspects hence they play a vital role in
determining the cost of producing a single piece of the garment and they also calculate the cost
of the factory for that particular style of garment.
The different departments with which the IED works are as follows.
The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the production
of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and they also help in
knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department takes a decision if
they have to proceed with the item or no.
The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the
given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories consumption by
the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose
because the entire costing criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the merchants
suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any
of the steps and the method of doing it.
The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style bulletin which
includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the garment and it also
includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has to be carried out at different
places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and approval. Types of thread (which is the
TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of labels
that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be checked,
the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style
bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.
This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is
required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an hour, for a
shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely
completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator
based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time and
also maintain the quality of their work.
57
After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the
efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the single
operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch.
This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this
report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM
value of the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date,
average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working
that day or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about
the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.
Based on the operator’s performance which would have been observed for a specified
period of time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows,
Skill type Grade

The operators forAeach batch are taken in a ratio of, Highly skilled
B Skilled
C Semi skilled
20% - Highly Skilled
25% - Skilled
50% - Semi skilled
This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication of the style.
A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases.
Because of maintaining this record they keep in track of the operator’s skill and his efficiency,
working method and after a particular span of time they update the record.
Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training
for about 45 – 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity
a grade is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has a
previous work experience in a garment industry then he is just been asked about his job which
he/she would have done in the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hour’s test to
know his skills and then grade is been allocated.
Everyday the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the
maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a production
review meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation
carried out in the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated
58
efficiency and output then they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow
the right one.
Start
Training, selection & Work Measurement Systems

development development
Selection of operators,
helpers, supervisors,
checkers, QC, etc.
Time study Method OPD Line

study Analysis balancing
Skill matrix Batch layout Style Batch

bulletin performanc
e
End
During batch setting a model of the sewing line or batch is planned in the following manner as
shown in the picture on a planning table carrying Velcro and small plastic boards which
represent the machines.
59
TIME STUDY AND ELEMENTAL BREAKDOWN WAS STUDIED FOR THE

FOLLOWING STYLE:
Style NO.2 : FL130204T
Description : Women’s 100% Cotton Casual full sleeve shirt
Buyer :Walmart
Brand : Faded Glory
Item No : H025, H027
Colors : Rally Blue, Arctic White, Berry Combo, Navy Combo
Sizes : S, M, L, XL, XXL
60
ACT time in SAM trgt in SAM trgt in
SNO
operation description smv opr min pcs pcs M/C type
85% 100% 85%
1 collar marking 0.45 N 0.53 133 113 TABLE
2 clr run st 0.6 Y 0.71 100 85 SNLS UBT
3 clr trim for run stitch 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS EC
4 clr clip & turn with iron 0.48 N 0.56 125 106 TABLE
5 clr edge st 0.42 Y 0.49 143 121 SNLS UBT
IRON
6 0.38 N 0.45 134
clr band iron 158 TABLE
7 satin tape attach to NB 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
8 clr band att to top clr 0.51 Y 0.60 118 100 SNLS UBT
9 clr peak ready 0.55 Y 0.65 109 93 SNLS EC
10 clr ready trim & mark 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS EC
IRON
11 0.57 N 0.67 89
clr peak turn & crease 105 TABLE
12 cuff hem 0.55 Y 0.65 109 93 SNLS UBT
13 piping atach to cuff 0.607 Y 0.71 99 84 SNLS UBT
14 cuff run st 0.95 Y 1.12 63 54 SNLS EC
IRON
15 0.54 N 0.64 94
clr peak turn &iron 111 TABLE
16 slv open 0.38 N 0.45 158 134 TABLE
17 slv snall plt att(folder) 0.52 Y 0.61 115 98 SNLS UBT
18 slv tack at plkt 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
IRON
19 0.72 N 0.85 71
slvslve big plkt iron 83 TABLE
20 slv big plkt attch 0.45 Y 0.53 133 113 SNLS UBT
21 slve big plkt dia finish 0.85 Y 1.00 71 60 SNLS UBT
22 back panel box pleat 0.42 Y 0.49 143 121 SNLS UBT
23 back yoke att 0.45 Y 0.53 133 113 SNLS UBT
24 back yoke top st 0.4 Y 0.47 150 128 SNLS UBT
IRON
25 0.35 N 0.41 146
back patch fab iron 171 TABLE
26 label att to back patch fab 0.5 Y 0.59 120 102 SNLS UBT
27 patch fab att to back yoke 0.6 Y 0.71 100 85 SNLS UBT
frnt bust dart st with side
28 1.1 Y 1.29 46 SNLS UBT
close 55
61
29 frnt pckt hem with trim 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
IRON
30 0.6 N 0.71 85
frnt pckt iron 100 TABLE
31 frnt pckt att mark and set 0.65 N 0.76 92 78 TABLE
32 frnt pckt att 0.72 Y 0.85 83 71 SNLS UBT
33 bottom btn plkt hem (folder) 0.48 Y 0.56 125 106 SNLS UBT
34 B/H plkt att (kansai) 0.66 Y 0.78 91 77 SNLS UBT
35 frnt back set(slv, clr & cuff) 1.33 N 1.56 45 38 TABLE
36 shoulder att 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT
37 shoulder top st 0.48 Y 0.56 125 106 SNLS UBT
38 clr att 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT
39 clr finish uptosatin tape 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT
40 clr finish above satin tape 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
41 slv tack 0.4 Y 0.47 150 128 SNLS UBT
42 guesset & btm side edge st 0.659 Y 0.78 91 77 SNLS UBT
43 sle O/L&btm gusset O/L 1.2 Y 1.41 50 43 5T O/L
44 slv top st &gusset T/S 1.08 Y 1.27 56 47 DNLS
45 side seam att wth W/C label 0.95 Y 1.12 63 54 SNLS UBT
46 side seam O/L 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 5T O/L
47 side seam top st 1.15 Y 1.35 52 44 FOA
48 pleat making 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 SNLS UBT
49 cuff att 0.655 Y 0.77 92 78 SNLS UBT
50 cuff finish 0.69 Y 0.81 87 74 SNLS UBT
51 cufftop st 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 SNLS UBT
52 btm stay st 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
53 btm hem 0.85 Y 1.00 71 60 SNLS UBT
54 Total 31.89 Y 37.52
TOTAL SAM 31.89 37.52
OPERATOR SAM 25.34 29.81
NON-OPERATOR SAM 6.55 7.71
62
2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
The embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the
particular style demands. The embroidery section is the centralized and the second largest
embroidery unit in Asia.
The embroidery section receives the garment, style and the embroidery details from the
merchandisers in the form of the hard copy format which is generally maintained in company,
the department will maintain the file for all the formats received and they will also get a sample
of the garment on which the embroidery has been already done and they will use this as their
reference sample / piece.
As soon as the department receives the details they check the design that has to be done
and they scan the design using the CAD software and then they digitize the design and check for
the number of stitches involved, area the design has to cover, the style of the stitch involved for
the design, thread colours required, thread tex, starting point of the design on the garment while
performing the operation etc., all these things are calculated and tabulated in the softcopy format
and give to the merchandiser and after an approval from them they start the further operation .
After the design has been finalized then they do the embroidery for the samples that has
to be produced to the buyer, these samples are done for about 6 – 7 garments and it is something
done against the actual or exact order quantity. After the samples have been generated then they
conduct the pilot run in the embroidery section.
Once the order has been confirmed and the exact order quantity that has to be produced is
known then they start the bulk production during the production the embroidery action on the
garment is done in two ways one is after the entire garment has been sewn and the other case is
after the garment panels has been cut and before sewing them into a complete garment.
The embroidery section receives the garments from the sewing floor or from the cutting
department and then they start their embroidery process.
After the embroidery is been done for the first set of the garment or the cut parts
received then they send them to the trimming and the checking section for every machine there
are operators for this process.
The operators are provided with hearing aids in this department because of the maximum
noise that is been produced by the machines.
63
Start
Receive designs from the merchant
Scan and punch design
Strike- off of design
Samples to be done against orders
Conduct pilot run of the styles
Start bulk production
Trimming & checking
Packing
Delivery
Style reconciliation
End
64
2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT

Once the garment has been finished with all the operations then they are sent to the
washing department for the washing or finishing that has to be done for that particular style
according to the buyers specifications and hence it plays a vital role in the final feel and the
texture of the garment which has to match the specifications of the buyer 100%.
The merchandiser after getting the sample done, they bring the original sample that will
be sent to the merchants by the buyer and they will also get the sample done in the factory and
then they show both the samples and the specifications and ask the washing department to match
the factory sample with the buyer sent sample with respect to the feel and the texture, for this the
merchandiser himself/herself comes to the washing department in case of samples.
The washing unit will now check the garment for the different aspects like,
 Type of the material.
 The texture that is under demand.
 The feel and look of the garment under demand.
 Types of labels that are been used in the garment.
 Dye stuffs used for the garment (if it is a coloured fabric).
 Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment.
 Types of threads used for in sewing.
 Types of chemicals that should be used to get the desired finish.
 The after effects of those chemicals on the fabric.
 The sensitivity criteria of the fabric.
 The wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product.
 The sequence of the processes.
 Temperature at which the garment has to be treated.
 Duration of the treatment.
After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for the garment they start treating the
garments in the desired sequence.
65
At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise, suppose the
garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in the similar manner then such
styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles.
After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyer’s specifications. In this
washing there are two types.
1. Wet processing
2. Dry processing
First the dry processing is carried out and then the wet processing is been followed. In the dry
processing there are four different types they are,
1. Grinding
2. Ripping or Blowout
3. Sandblasting
4. Crinkling
After the dry processing the next main thing which has to be done is wet processing. Wet
processing involves mainly two types, they are
1. Dyeing: this is mainly done using two types of dyes which are reactive dyes and pigment
dyes, these two dyes are more commonly used in practice and sometimes the usage of the
dyes depends on the fabric and the buyer demands and requirements.
2. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken to the
washing process. There are different types of washing procedures involved and they are
classified as follows,
 Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry
 Softener wash
 Desize wash
 Enzyme wash
 Stone enzyme wash
 Rubber ball wash
 Denim wash
 Bleach wash
 Tinting/ T- staining
66
Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand for dyeing so at such
situations they are sent directly to the washing process from the dry processing stage or else the
original procedure that is followed in the company is that first the garments are sent to the dry
processing and then from there to the wet processing where it is first sent to the dyeing and then
to the washing process.
After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction where in which
a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine depending on the tumbler
capacity and then the excess of water which had accumulated in the previous stages will be
extracted by compressing the garment with the optimum pressure that has to be used for that
particular style / garment.
Then the garments are dried using the drier. After the garments are dried they are
inspected by the inspection people and the inspection here is random it does not involve any
organized way, any garment from the entire lot is randomly selected and inspected according to
the criteria that will be specified to them by the merchandiser.
Once the inspection is over the garments are sent to the finishing and the packing section
or sometimes if the garments has to be attached with some accessories or trims after the washing
and dyeing stages then such styles are sent to the production floor to finish the left over job on
them and then sent to the finishing and the packing department.
The washing department in this unit (Unit – 7) is the centralized one for the units located
in Bangalore and its surrounding areas so the washing unit will be receiving the garments from
different units for the washing purposes hence this department has to keep in track of the
garments, quantity of the garments received, processes that has to be carried out for them, the
stage in which they are, duration required for the process to be finished for the garments
according to the types of the washes prescribed for them, etc., hence this department maintains a
record in which they fill in the details of the garment style number, PO number, item number,
quantity received and the day and date of recieval. The department maintains these details both
in the soft as well as in the hard copy format. The department will enter the details in the
MOVEX. Whenever the washing unit receives or delivers the garment lot from the different
units then the communication is mainly through the e-mails and also phone calls.
67
Start
Receipt of goods from

different units
Segregation (JO wise,

unit wise, shade wise)
Washing
As per
buyer spec
Dry process:
Wet grinding/ripping/blowout/sand
Processin blasting/crinkling/whiskering/ severen
g
Washing:
Dyein
softener/acid/desize/enzyme/stone/r
g
ubber ball/stone
enzyme/tinting/normal water wash/
Reactive Pigment dip n dry/denim
Hydro Extraction
Drying
Inspection (Random)
Accounting & despatch

to different units
End
68
2.16.QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule applies even to garment
industries also. In order to maintain quality the quality assurance departments has split up their
job into different stages of manufacturing and there are classified into four major groups which
are as follows.
 Pre-production audit:
In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the
production and that is the sampling stage. Here the auditing is done for all samples and
precisely for the size set samples and also for the pilot production garments. The size set
samples are given importance to because they are mainly asked by the buyer for checking
the dimensions of the garment hence an extra stress is given to these samples and the
auditing for them is mainly done for the measurements of the garment and the
measurements are checked at all the critical areas in the garment.
For example: if it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas like the
length of the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, the distance of the belt
loops, etc.,
For the pilot run production also the garments are checked for the dimensions and
also for the placement of the accessories and trims for example, the label attachment
areas, etc.,
69
 Cutting audit:
In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage of the garment production the auditing
is further divided into many other departments which are,
1. Spreading
2. Relay cut
3. Band knife
4. Shade
5. Hard pattern
 Sewing audit:
In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas, they are
1. In – line audit:
Here the garments are checked during their different stages of
manufacturing. Here the entire manufacturing process for a particular garment is
split into the required number of parts may be two – three and then at the end of
each stage the inspection is carried out by the person whose main job is auditing.
For example if the garment that is being manufactured is a shirt then the entire
manufacturing process is broken down into stages like, the finish of front, finish if
back, sleeve attach finish and then the entire shirt. In this case the shirt is being
checked at each stage and the auditing personnel will be provided by certain
specifications and also the tolerance limits based on which he checks the garment.
Here every single garment is checked.
2. End – line audit:

Here the garments are checked after the entire process is over and the
specifications are mainly based on the dimensions of the garment at the critical
positions and then the placements of the labels.
 Button/button hole :
In this area the auditing is mainly done by the operator himself as the job
is limited, it is just button attachment that has to be done and the operator does it
70
himself as and when he finishes his part of the job with the garment and the
operator will be given or taught about the specifications for the garment to attach
the button/ making the button holes.
After the auditing is done in each and every stage the defects, findings and other related
information will be recorded by the concerned departments in their own formats and they will be
sent to the respective departments for rectification
2.17.FINISHING DEPARTMENT
The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and it
plays an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment. This department includes
majorly of the following steps,
 Trimming:
This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas.
 Inspection:
The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it
depends on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the
company has to do as specified.
 Semi – pressing:
This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes
from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and then
inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.
 Pressing:
The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the garments
are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.
 Tagging section:
71
Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they are
sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and
miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the garments
are folded according to the buyer’s specification and also they are either folded plainly or
sometimes they are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the buyer’s
specifications again.
The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to be
put in are all suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these
specifications.
 Packing:
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the
packing of the garments they are as follows,
There are generally two kinds of packing the garment,
1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will be
specified by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag
packing and then the entire garments (as per the packing criteria) is arranged in
the carton box.
2. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the carton
boxes without putting them in the poly bag.
The packing criteria followed in each carton box as already mentioned is done in different ways
which is as follows,
 Solid Packing:
In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single colour
and same size.
For example, 20 shirts of a similar colour say navy blue and the size say S will be
put in one carton box.
 Ratio Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of same colour but of different
sizes according to the ratio.
72
For example, S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5.
 Mixed Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of different colours but of same
size or garments with different colours and different sizes in a particular ratio form.
After the packing is done the garments are kept in the godown/stores until the buyer sends the
buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives he will
check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments has to be accepted or
rejected.
CHAPTER 3
3.1.PROJECT
TITLE- COST OF QUALITY EVALUATION FOR AN APPAREL MANUFACTURING

UNIT.
INTRODUCTION:
Though the Indian apparel industry has made efforts towards controlling the outgoing
quality of the merchandise; the ‘right first time’ quality level in various manufacturing processes
needs substantial improvement.
The repair and rejection levels in the Indian apparel manufacturing firms still remain
quite high compared to best practice firms in Asia including India.
The majority of time and effort of the quality personnel of apparel manufacturers seem to
be devoted to inspecting the already produced merchandise than preventing the defects from
arising. This phenomenon can mainly be attributed to the non-understanding of the ‘Cost of
Quality’ or in simple words non-understanding of the amount of money wasted due to poor
quality.
In this project an attempt has been made to calculate the total cost of quality % for one of
the units of Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd(Unit 7A), Bangalore.
OBJECTIVE:
 Determining the cost of quality % of the total monthly production of the unit 7A.
73
 Increasing profitability by lower rework and scrap.

 Determining cost of quality at various stages of manufacturing.
 To find out the company‘s status in the quality maturity grid.
SCOPE:
 To reduce quality related costs which can go as high up to 25% of the sales.
 To identify the loss of production due to rework and rechecking in various departments
of the organization.
 To increase profitability by controlling the cost of quality.
 To improve the productivity by reducing the loss of production due to rework.
3.2. METHODOLOGY
The work methodology of the project was carried out by the following steps:
1. Selection of the styles.

2. Collection of data.
3. Time study analysis for checking.
4. Compilation and Data analysis.
Detailed Methodology:
3.2.1. SELECTION OF THE STYLES :
As the aim of the project is to calculate Cost of Quality per month of the factory, we
were given two styles from Walmart namely FG30D104 (Women’s dress), FL130204T
(Women’s Shirt) which would be a representative of the whole. The above two styles have varied
order quantities one smaller and one larger as the larger quantity have lesser defect ratio when
compared to smaller quantity because the workers get habituated to the style and produce less
defects.
Styles Details:
Style NO.1 : FG30D104
Order Quantity : 19676
Description : Women’s 100% Cotton Dress with Smocking.
Buyer :Walmart
Brand : Faded Glory
74
Item No : H790
Colors : Blue flower, Red Plaid, Pink Tril, Green.
Picture of Garment:
FRONT BACK
Style NO.2 : FL130204T
Order Quantity
Spreading & Cutting 72581
Sewing 42699
Finishing 84020
Washing 42699
75
Description : Women’s 100% Cotton Casual full sleeve shirt
Buyer :Walmart
Brand : Faded Glory
Item No : H025, H027
Colors : Rally Blue, Arctic White, Berry Combo, Navy Combo
Sizes : S, M, L, XL, XXL
Picture of Garment:
FRONT BACK
3.2.2. COLLECTION OF DATA:
Collection of data is a major part in determining the Cost of Quality for the factory. We had
collected the data in each department for the two styles whose production was already completed or at
the finishing stage from the various records maintained in the departments.
76
To proceed with this project the major cost parameters are prevention, appraisal, internal
failure and external failure for which the following data is needed from various departments where
ever applicable.
1. No. of rework/defects.
2. Time taken for rework.
3. Salaries of Quality people.
4. Total quantity.
5. Quantity Checked/Inspected.
6. Testing and Inspection.
 Fabric audit:
Salary of controller/month 6000

Salary of checkers/month 3600
Style 1:
Order Quality Quantity

UOM
Quantity person checked
20463.35 Q.C 3069.50323 GMTs

20463.35 Controller 3069.50323 GMTs
Style 2:
Order Quality Quantity UOM

Quantity person checked
279464 Q.C 41919.58499 Mtrs
279464 controller 41919.58499 Mtrs
77
 CUTTING AND SPREADING:
The data collected from this department are total quantity for this order which we got from daily
and monthly production reports, quantity checked by checkers and Q.C people which we observed is
checkers are checking 100% and Q.C are doing random audit, so we have followed up one day and
noted how much time he spends on that day and divided it by whole number of pieces. We got
salaries of the quality people by our mentor MR.Shivagurunathan, and finally the total re cut quantity
we got it from re cut records for different styles.
Salary of Quality Controllers 6000/month

Salary of Quality Checkers 3600/month
Style 1 Total Cut Quantity 19976 GMTs
Re cut Quantity 200 GMTs
Style 2 Total Cut Quantity 72581 GMTs
Re cut Quantity 726
78
Type Quantity UOM

checked
Style Shell fabric 19976 GMT
1 Contrast fabric 55814 Panels
Interlining 20160 Panels
Style Shell fabric 72581 GMT
2 Contrast fabric 73468 GMT
Interlining 74758 GMT
 SEWING:
In this department various data required are number of defects which were sent for rework which
we got from daily inline, end line, Q.C audit, and final audit reports which we got it from quality
department, this we noted it down according to operation wise but not on type of defects as it would be
easy to calculate rework time. Quantity checked by different quality people as we came to know inline,
end line are checking 100% production, and quantity checked by Q.C we got it from report itself as it is
mentioned how many they have checked. Quantity checked by auditor is according to AQL (for every
150 pieces they will check so according to AQL 8 garments in every 150 pieces).
Style 1 Style 2
OPERATION NAME NO. OF OPERATION NAME NO. OF
DEFECTS DEFECTS
Collar top stitch 1179 sleeve big placket attach 2166
Bottom Hem 831 collar finish up to satin tape 1554
Front Placket finish 708 sleeve top stitch &gusset T/S 1450
Label ready and attach 692 label attach to back patch fabric 1394
Front Top and Bottom attach 564 collar peak ready 1244
smocking 468 bottom hem 1210
Tie finishing 414 side seam attach with W/C label 1181
Side O/L 410 B/H placket attach 1135
Side seam 400 sleeve big placket dia finish 885
Sleeve attach 350 cuff finish 810
Collar attach 328 collar edge stitch 650
Smocking tacking 314 collar attach 648
collar Finishing 271 front pocket attach 592
Sleeve Hem 228 front bust dart stitch with side close 488
Sleeve overlock 201 back pointed 412
79
Front top and bottom O/L 200 gusset& bottom side edge stitch 306
Gathering 138 sleeve o/L &bottom gusset O/L 262
Checking Quantity UOM
Collar peak Ready 119 shoulder attach 210
Point checked
shoulder attach 103 checking1
Inline cuff attach 19892 GMT 188
Front pocket 88 checking2
Inline patch fabric attach to back yoke
19892 GMT 117
Back yoke Style 1 End69line checking
back yoke attach 19892 GMT 110
Waist Belt loop ready Q.C68 side seam O/L 9145 GMT 97
Washcare label attach Quality
42 Auditor
sleeve small placket1060
attach GMT 66
Back top and bottom overlock Inline
38 checking1 42699
collar ready trim and mark GMT 54
Inline checking2 42699 GMT
Shoulder O/L Style 2 32 pleat making 48
End line checking 42699 GMT
Neck peak Ready Q.C24 back yoke top stitch
19642 GMT 44
Front placket and body setting 23 Auditor
Quality side seam top stitch2278 GMT 37
Back top and bottom attach 13 front pocket hem with trim 35
satin tape attach to NB 31
collar band attach to top collar 28
piping attach to cuff 19
cuff top stitch 19
back panel box pleat 10
sleeve tack 10
Total 8315 Total 17510

Style 1 Total Quantity 19892 80
Summer Internship Report 2010 Total No. of defects 8315
Style 2 Total Quantity 42699
Total No. of defects 17510
 FINISHING:
The data which we needed from this department are also same as sewing, here we collected no. of
defects which are sent for rework at various stages from initial checking to final packing of the garments.
This information we got it from hourly reports and quality audit reports online and final carton audit
reports.
The quantity checked by different quality people like quality checkers at first checking,
presentation checking, final checking, measurement checking are done for 100% production and for final
inspection is done according to AQL of total quantity.
Q.C people at inline quality checking will be doing random audits for all first, presentation,
measurement, and final checking and will be doing 10% of production at each stage which will come up
to 40% of total and at carton packing stage they will be checking 100% of production.
Final auditing which is done by quality in charge is again depending upon AQL 2.5, they will
selection of cartons is root over no. of cartons and from that they will take according to AQL.
Style 1 Style 2
OPERATION NO. OF OPERATION NAME NO. OF
NAME DEFECTS DEFECTS
Front Placket finish 229 sleeve placket attach 599
Collar finish 147 bottom hem 594
Bottom Hem 128 Darning 434
panel damage 94 sleeve top stitch & gusset T/S 431
Smocking 52 side seam attach with W/C label 391
Collar peak Ready 15 B/H placket attach 318
Sleeve Attach 14 gusset& bottom side edge stitch 289
side seam 12 label attach to back patch fabric 232
Stains 11 sleeve big placket dia finish 220
Collar final 9 cuff finish 215
Sleeve Hem 9 cuff attach 210
Side Attach 8 back pointed 194
Belt tie ready 7 front pocket attach 191
Button 6 collar band attach to top collar 149
sleeve o/L &bottom gusset O/L 146
81
collar peak ready 116

collar finish up to satin tape 111
Stain 109
side seam top stitch 105
patch fabric attach to back yoke 101
shoulder attach 82
collar edge stitch 78
sleeve tack 70
pleat making 68
collar attach 68
collar ready trim and mark 56
cuff top stitch 54
front bust dart stitch with side 48
close
back yoke attach 41
Button Attach 6
Total 741 Total 5726
Style Checking Point Quantity UOM

checked
First checking
Salary of Quality In 19676
charge GMT
14000/month
Presentation 19676
Salary of Quality Controllers 6000/monthGMT
Measurement 19676
Salary of Quality Checkers 3600/monthGMT
Style 1 Style 1 Final checking
Total Quantity 19676 19672 GMT
Final inspection
Total No. of defects 125 741 GMT
Style 2 line quality control
Total Quantity 7871 84020 GMT
Q.C at carton
Totalpacking
No. of defects 19676 5726 GMT
Internal Audit 125 GMT
First checking 84020 GMT
Presentation 84020 GMT
Measurement 84020 GMT
Style 2 Final checking 84020 GMT
Final inspection 250 GMT
line quality control 33608 GMT
Q.C at carton packing 84020 GMT
Internal Audit 250 GMT
  WASHING:
82
In this department we need quantity which we got from production reports and quantity
checked by checkers is 10% of each batch and quality controller will be checking 10 garments from each
batch, and an approximate number of pieces per batch is 500 gmts. Rework quantity we got it from
rework reports.

Total Quantity 42699
Rewash Quantity Nil
Style 1 QTY Checked by Q.C 330
QTY Checked by Checkers 1659
Total Quantity 42699
Rewash Quantity 1000
Style 2 QTY Checked by Q.C 860
QTY Checked by Checkers 4270
 QUALITY DEPARTMENT:
In this department we need only work force and their salaries which we got if from quality
department itself.
Department Quality No. of persons Salary

personal’s
Quality Managers 1 40000
Quality Quality Executives 2 13000
Quality In charge 1 14000
 INSPECTION:
The inspection which is done for garments are also to be considered as this also comes under cost
of conformance. Here we need the cost of machineries and no. of machines, machine details are provided
by department people but cost of machineries are taken from internet as its confidential information.
Name of the Machine Cost of Machine No.of machines Total Cost

Fabric Inspection machine 200000 4 800000
Needle Detector 157500 1 157500
83
 TESTING:
The testing cost also comes under cost of conformance so from this department we got total
number of tests performed for this style, average number of tests done per day, total staff and
assistants and their salaries
Style 1 Style 2
TYPE OF TEST NO.OF TYPE OF TEST NO.OF
SAMPLES SAMPLES
FABRIC TESTIING FABRIC TESTIING
Dimensional stability 1 Dimensional stability to 1
to washing washing
Tearing Strength 1 Tearing Strength 1

Tensile Strength 1 Tensile Strength 1
Construction 1 Construction 1
Fabric weight (GSM) 1 Fabric weight (GSM) 1
Total 5 Total 5
GARMENT NO. OF GARMENT TESTING NO. OF
TESTING SAMPLES SAMPLES
DIMENSINAL 24 DIMENSINAL STABILITY 31
STABILITY TO TO WASHING %
WASHING %
COLOR FASTNESS 24 COLOR FASTNESS TO 24
TO WASHING WASHING
COLOR FASTNESS 24 COLOR FASTNESS TO 24
TO CROCKING CROCKING
APPEARANCE 24 APPEARANCE AFTER 24
AFTER WASH WASH
SEAM SLIPPAGE 24 SEAM SLIPPAGE 24
/STRENTH(LBS) /STRENTH(LBS)
BUTTON 44 BUTTON ATTACHMENT 72
ATTACHMENT STRENTH
STRENTH
PH 24 TENSILE STRENGTH 24
84
TEARING STRENGTH 24
PH 6
Total 188 Total 253
External Testing: Monthly average testing cost is equal to 12500.
 SAMPLING:
In this department also cost related to quality will be there as quality is main important
aspect in this department, from this department we collected type of sample and no. of samples
made, quantity checked by quality people such as checkers which will be 100 % and by Q.C it will
be 50% of total samples.
Salary of controller 10000

Salary of checkers 4300
Total No. of Garments 10
Type of Sample Size set sample
Style 1 Quantity checked by 5

Q.C
Quantity checked by 10
Checker
Total No. of Garments 16
Type of Sample Size set sample
Style 2 Quantity checked by 8

Q.C
Quantity checked by 16
Checker
 STORES:
In this department checking of trims will be done by checkers and Q.C, so we collected salaries
of them.
Salary of QC 6000/month
Salary of checkers 3600/month
3.2.3. TIME STUDY ANALYSIS FOR CHECKING:
Checking time for each garment at various stages of manufacturing was taken using time study as this
is one of the major contributions towards the Cost of Quality.The following are the time for general
checking in various departments.
85
1. FABRIC AUDIT:
Time study taken for fabric audit which are in roll form, which not only include checking
time but also time taken to check shade variation in spectrophoto meter.
Style 1 Style 2
Quality Person Checking time/gmt Quality Person Checking time/gmt
Quality checker 1.6157 Quality checker 2.16383
Q.C 0.321 Q.C 0.4299
2. SAMPLING: In sampling checking is done by controller and checker so we took time study
for them and given below.
Style Quality person Checking Time in

Min/GMT
Style 1 Quality controller 3.8
Quality checker 3
Style 1 Quality controller 3.64
Quality checker 2.83
3. STORES:
As many of the trims which are received in stores are checked for quality also we have
taken time study in this department for various trims which are used in our styles only.
Note: there is no checking for sewing threads and elastic threads.
Style 1 Style 2
NAME OF QUANTITY UOM TOTAL NAME OF QUANTITY UOM TOTAL
THE TRIMS TIME THE TRIMS TIME
Main label 19976 PCS 3.5 Main label 43553 PCS 7.6
Wash care label 19976 PCS 4 Wash care label 43553 PCS 8.7
Elastic 10588 MTRS 3 Satin Tape 25261 MTRS 6.5
Elastic Thread 124848 MTRS 2.5 Button Pouch 85700 PCS 19.3
Buttons 1224 GRS 11.5 Buttons 6420 GRS 60.3
Button pouches 19976 PCS 4.5 Hangers 84020 PCS 152.02
Hand tag 19976 PCS 3.0 Hand tags 85700 PCS 12.9
Poly bag 416 PCS 2.5 Sizers 85700 PCS 96.1
Poly bag 11203 PCS 67.3
Carton Sticker 5601 PCS 1.0
Total 34.5 Total 431.7
time time
86
4. CUTTING AND SPREADING:

In this department as it is difficult to take checking time per garment so we took so took
time study for one whole lay in which checkers and Q.C are spending and divided by total
garments in that lay so that we can arrive with checking time per garment.
Style Type Quality Checking UOM Recut time/gmt

Person time/UOM
Quality Checker 0.075 GMT
Shell fabric Quality Controller 0.0525 GMT
Style 1 1.62
Contrast fabric Quality Controller 0.002499 GMT
Interlining Quality Controller 0.00168 GMT
Shell fabric Quality Controller 0.0504 GMT
Style 2 Contrast fabric Quality Controller 1.7
0.009996 GMT
Interlining Quality Controller 0.00672 GMT
5. SEWING:
In this department checking is done at different stage and at each stage time taken is
different even it is done by checkers only, so we took time study and arrived with these results.
Style Checking Point Quality Person Checking time/GMT

Inline checking1 Quality Checker 0.52
Style 1 End line checking Quality Checker 0.75
Q.C Q.C 0.9
Quality Auditor Quality Auditor 1.5
Style 2 End line checking Quality Checker 0.75
Q.C Q.C 0.9
Quality Auditor Quality Auditor 1.5
6. FINISHING:
87
This department offers so many checking points which will be done by different
people, we have taken many time study readings to get average timing and arrived
Style Checking Point Quality Person Checking

time/GMT
First checking Quality Checker 1.55
Presentation Quality Checker 0.7
Measurement Quality Checker 0.13
Style 1 Final checking Quality Checker 1.2
Final inspection Quality Checker 0.75
line quality control Q.C 4.5
Q.C at carton packing Q.C 0.3
Internal Audit Quality In charge 1.392
First checking Quality Checker 1.46
Presentation Quality Checker 0.63
Measurement Quality Checker 0.11
Style 2
Final checking Quality Checker 1.15
Final inspection Quality Checker 0.72
line quality control Q.C 4.27
Q.C at carton packing Q.C 0.3
Internal Audit Quality In charge 1.28
7. WASHING:
Style Quality Person Checking time/GMT

Style 1 Quality Checker 2.5
Q.C 3.2
Style 2 Quality Checker 2.78
Q.C 3.57
88
3.2.4. COMPILATION AND ANALYSIS OF DATA:
 FABRIC AUDIT:
In this department only checking cost has to be calculated as there is no cost
involved even if there is rejections of the fabric. As we already know time taken by checkers and
controllers just we need how much it will costs us.
Style 1:
Quantity checked by checkers = 3069.50323
Quantity checked by controller = 3069.50323
Time taken by checker = 1.6157 mins/garment
Time taken by controller = 0.321 mins/garment
Total time taken by checkers = 1.6157*3069.503 = 4959.396 mins
Total time taken by controllers = 0.321*3069.503 = 985.3105 mins
Salary checkers = 3600 Rs/month
Salary controllers = 6000 Rs/month
Cost by checkers = (3600*4959.396)/14400 = 1239.8
Cost by controllers = (6000*985.32)/14400 = 410.5
Cost of checking = 410.5+1239.8 = 1650.4 Rs
Style 2:
Quantity checked by checkers = 41919.58499
Quantity checked by controller = 41919.58499
Time taken by checker = 2.16383 mins/garment
Time taken by controller = 0.4299 mins/garment
Total time taken by checkers = 2.16383*41919.58499= 90706.9 mins
89
Total time taken by controllers = 0.4299*41919.58499= 18021.2 mins
Salary checkers = 3600 Rs/month
Salary controllers = 6000 Rs/month
Cost by checkers = (3600*90706.9)/14400 = 22676.7
Cost by controllers = (6000*18021.2)/14400 = 7508.8
Cost of checking = 7508.8+22676.7= 30185.6 Rs
Total cost from department = 30185.6+1650.4 = 31836 Rs
 STORES:
The method followed to Calculate Cost from Stores department is as follows,
The different trim quantities and time taken to check were known from the collected data
and time study analysis. Hence we can calculate total time taken by checker’s and quality
controller’s for these styles. As we know the salary of the two persons now we can get the cost
incurred by checking of the trims shown below.
Considerations:
1. Only poly bags and Button pouches are checked by Q.C and rest of all the trims were checked by
checkers.
2. Quantity checked according to AQL 1.5
Style 1:
The total time taken by checkers = 27.5/60
= 0.5 hrs
Time taken by Quality controller = 7/60
= 0.1hr
Salary of checkers =3600/month (240 hrs)
Cost for 0.5 hrs = (3600X0.5)/240 =6.9Rs
Similarly for Q.C cost for 0.1 hrs = (6000X0.1)/240 = 2.9 Rs
Total Cost incurred for Style1 = 6.9+2.9 = 9.8Rs
90
Style 2:
The total time taken by checkers = 345.1/60
= 5.8 hrs
Time taken by Quality controller = 86.6/60
= 1.44hrs
Salary of checkers =3600/month (240 hrs)
Cost for 5.8 hrs = (3600X5.8)/240 = 86.3Rs
Similarly for Q.C cost for 1.44 hrs = (6000X1.44)/240 = 36.1Rs
Total Cost incurred for Style 2 = 86.3+36.1= 122.4Rs
 SAMPLING:
Generally there will be various types of samples prepared in industry before the actual
production starts but for these two styles only size set samples were done in unit 7A rest of the
samples were done in Faridabad unit, so we are considering the cost incurred for the size set
samples alone.
Style 1: Total No. of samples = 10
Quantity checked by Q.C = 5
Quantity checked by checkers = 10
Checking time by Checkers = 3 min/gmt
Time taken to check = 10X3 = 30 min = 0.5 hrs
Salary of checkers = 4300Rs/month (240 hrs)
Checkers cost for 0.5 hrs = (4300*0.5)/240 = 9Rs
Checking time by Q.C = 3.8 min/gmt
Time taken to check by Q.C = 5*3.8 = 19 min = 0.3166 hrs
Q.C cost for 0.3166 hrs = (10000*0.3166)/240 = 13.2Rs
Total cost for style 1 = 9 + 13.2 = 22.2Rs
91
Style 2: Total No. of samples = 16
Quantity checked by Q.C = 8
Quantity checked by checkers = 16
Checking time by Checkers = 2.83 min/gmt
Time taken to check = 16*2.83 = 45.3 mins
Salary of checkers = 4300Rs/month (14400 mins)
Checkers cost for 45.3 min = (4300*45.3)/14400 = 13.5Rs
Checking time by Q.C = 3.64 min/gmt
Time taken to check by Q.C = 8*3.64 = 29.1mins
Q.C cost for 29.1 min = (10000*29.1)/14400 = 20.2Rs
Total cost for style 1 = 13.5 + 20.2 = 33.7 Rs
 SPREADING AND CUTTING:
In this department there are 3 types of costs can be taken out as Cost of rework, Cost
of checking & Cost due to loss of production. This cost due to loss of production is an indirect
loss also called as opportunity cost. Here is how we calculated all this costs.
Considerations:
1. Timing doesn’t include idle time of checkers and Q.C people.( i.e. it is at average
efficiency)
Style 1:
 Cost of Rework:
To calculate this cost we need rework quantity and time taken to do each unit of
rework by which we can arrive with total rework time, and as we know per minute factory cost
we can arrive at cost of rework.
Total Rework quantity = 200 gmts
Recut time per gmt = 1.62 mins
92
Total time = 1.62*200 = 324 min
Factory cost/min = 2.2 Rs
Cost of rework = 2.2*324 = 712.8 Rs
 Cost of checking:
In this department checking is done at various stages by various quality people depending
on style and buyer so we need to see how much time and cost is spent on checking in this
department and done as below.
Shell fabric:
Total Quantity = 19976
Checkers checking time /Gmt = 0.075
Total checkers checking time = 0.075*19976 = 1498.2 min
Salary of quality checker = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 1498.2 min = 374.6 Rs
Q.C checking time /Gmt = 0.0525
Total Q.C checking time = 0.0525*19976 = 1048.74
Salary of quality controller = 6000
Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins= (1048.2*6000)/14400 = 437Rs
Contrast fabric:
Total Quantity = 55814 Panels
Checkers checking time/panel = 0.00357
Total checkers checking time = 0.00357*55814 = 200 min
Checkers cost for 200 min = 50Rs
Q.C checking time /panel = 0.002499
Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins = (139.479186*6000)/14400 = 58.1Rs
93
Interlining:
Total Quantity = 20160 Panels
Checkers checking time/panel = 0.0024 min
Checkers cost for 48.384 min = 12.1Rs
Q.C checking time /panel = 0.00168
Total checkers cost for this style = 374.6+50+12.1 = 436.6 Rs
Total Q.C cost for this style = 437+58.1+14.1 = 509.2Rs
Total cost of checking = 436.6 + 509.2= 945.8Rs
 Cost due to loss of production:
The time in which the rework is done can be used to production, this loss is calculated from the
time taken to attend the rework and in the same time how much production can be achieved (if that time
is available) and cost of doing that many pieces.
Rework time = 324 mins
Avg production/day/93 persons = 6200
Total available mins in day = 480*93 = 44640
Loss of production due to rework = (324*6200)/44640 = 45 gmts
Cost due to loss of production = 266.4 Rs
Total cost from cutting and spreading department for this style = 945.8+712.8+266.4 =
1925.05
94
Style 2:
 Cost of rework:
Total Rework quantity = 726gmts
Recut time per gmt = 1.7mins
Total time = 1.7*726 = 1234.2 min
Factory cost/min = 2.2 Rs
Cost of rework = 2.2*1234.2 = 2715.14Rs
Shell fabric:
Checkers checking time /Gmt = 0.072
Checkers cost for 5225.83min = 1306.5 Rs
Q.C checking time /Gmt = 0.0504
Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins = (3658.08*6000)/14400 = 1524.2 Rs
Contrast fabric:
Checkers checking time/gmt = 0.01428
95
Q.C checking time /gmt = 0.009996
Total Q.C checking time = 0.009996*73468 = 734.39 min
Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins = (734.39*6000)/14400 = 306Rs
Interlining:
Checkers checking time/gmt = 0.0096 min
Q.C checking time /gmt = 0.00672
Total Q.C checking time = 0.00672*55814 = 502.37 mins
Total checkers cost for this style = 1306.5+262.3+179.4=1748.2Rs
Total Q.C cost for this style = 1524.2+306+209.3= 2782.6 Rs
Total cost of checking = 1748.2+2782.6= 3787.7Rs
The time in which the rework is done can be used to production, this loss is calculated from the
time taken to attend the rework and in the same time how much production can be achieved (if that time
is available) and cost of doing that many pieces.
Rework time = 726mins
Avg production/day/93 persons = 6200
Total available mins in day = 480*93 = 44640
Loss of production due to rework = (726*6200)/44640 = 171.41667gmts
Cost of spreading & cutting one garment = 6.52rs
Cost due to loss of production = 1117.6Rs
Total cost from cutting and spreading department for this style = 2715.14+3787.7+1117.6=
7620.55Rs.
96
 SEWING DEPARTMENT:
To calculate cost of quality this sewing department plays a vital role because conversion from
fabric to garment is done mainly here in this department and lot of mistakes are bound to happen which in
turn result in lot of rework and time for it.
As in spreading and cutting in this department also we can take 3 costs, cost of rework, cost of
checking,& cost due to loss of production.
In this department the defects may be in several operations and there is a need to know operation
wise defects and percentage of total, so for the same we have made pareto chart for these styles which
will help in future corrective actions.
Style 1:
PERCENTAGE OF
OPERATION NAME NO. OF DEFECTS TOTAL
Collar top stitch 1179 14.2
Bottom Hem 831 10.0
Front Placket finish 708 8.5
Label ready and attach 692 8.3
Front Top and Bottom attach 564 6.8
smocking 468 5.6
Tie finishing 414 5.0
Side O/L 410 4.9
Side seam 400 4.8
Sleeve attach 350 4.2
Collar attach 328 3.9
Smocking tacking 314 3.8
collar Finishing 271 3.3
Sleeve Hem 228 2.7
Sleeve overlock 201 2.4
Front top and bottom O/L 200 2.4
Gathering 138 1.7
Collar peak Ready 119 1.4
shoulder attach 103 1.2
Front pocket 88 1.1
Back yoke 69 0.8
Waist Belt loop ready 68 0.8
Washcare label attach 42 0.5
Back top and bottom overlock 38 0.5
Shoulder O/L 32 0.4
Neck peak Ready 24 0.3
97
Front placket and body setting 23 0.3

Back top and bottom attach 13 0.2
Total 8315 100
98
99
Style 2:
OPERATION NAME NO. OF DEFECTS PERCENTAGE OF

TOTAL
sleeve big placket attach 2166 12.4
collar finish up to satin tape 1554 8.9
sleeve top stitch & gusset T/S 1450 8.3
label attach to back patch fabric 1394 8.0
collar peak ready 1244 7.1
bottom hem 1210 6.9
side seam attach with W/C label 1181 6.7
B/H placket attach 1135 6.5
sleeve big placket dia finish 885 5.1
cuff finish 810 4.6
collar edge stitch 650 3.7
collar attach 648 3.7
front pocket attach 592 3.4
front bust dart stitch with side close 488 2.8
back pointed 412 2.4
gusset & bottom side edge stitch 306 1.7
sleeve o/L &bottom gusset O/L 262 1.5
cuff attach 188 1.1
patch fabric attach to back yoke 117 0.7
back yoke attach 110 0.6
side seam O/L 97 0.6
sleeve small placket attach 66 0.4
collar ready trim and mark 54 0.3
pleat making 48 0.3
back yoke top stitch 44 0.3
side seam top stitch 37 0.2
front pocket hem with trim 35 0.2
satin tape attach to NB 31 0.2
collar band attach to top collar 28 0.2
piping attach to cuff 19 0.1
cuff top stitch 19 0.1
back panel box pleat 10 0.1
sleeve tack 10 0.1
Total 17510 100.0
100
101
Considerations:
1. Checking time taken is not including idle time.

2. All the Inline checking and end line checking are done by checkers and audits in line are done by
Q.C and final audit according to AQL is done by Quality auditors.
Style 1:
 Cost of rework:
No. defects = 8315
Total time taken to do rework = 19953.99 mins
Factory cost/ min= 2.2 Rs
Total cost of rework = 19953.99*2.2 = 43898.778
The checking in this department was done at various stages so we calculated at various
stages and added it at the end.
Inline checking 1:
Total quantity checked =19892
Checker checking time/gmt = 0.52
Total checking time = 10343.8
Salary of checkers = 3600/month(14400 min)
Checkers cost at inline checking = (3600*10343.8)/14400 = 2586Rs
Inline checking 2:
Total checking time = 12591.6
Checkers cost at inline checking = (3600*12591.6)/14400 = 3147.9 Rs
102
End line checking:
Total checking time = 0.75*19892 = 14919 min
Checkers cost at endine checking = (3600*14919)/14400 = 3729.8Rs
Random checking (Auditing):
Q.C checking time/gmt = 0.9
Total checking time = 0.9*9145 = 8230.5 min
Salary of Q.C = 6000/month(14400 min)
Q.C cost at random checking = (6000*8230.5)/14400 = 3429.4Rs
Final Auditing:
Auditor checking time/gmt = 1.5
Total checking time = 1.5*1060 = 1590 min
Salary of Auditor = 7500/month(14400 min)
Auditor cost at final checking = (7500*1590)/14400 = 828.1Rs
Total cost by checkers = 2586+3147.9+3729.8 = 9463.6
Total cost by Q.C = 3429.4
Total cost by Auditor = 828.1
Total cost of checking in sewing department = 9463.6+3429.4+828.1 = 13721.1
103
Style 2 :
 Cost of rework:
No. defects = 17510
Total time taken to do rework = 36524.892 mins
Factory cost/ min= 2.2 Rs
The checking in this department was done at various stages so we calculated at various
stages and added it at the end.
Inline checking 1:
Checkers cost at inline checking = (3600*20068.53)/14400 = 5017.1Rs
Inline checking 2:
104
End line checking:
Random checking (Auditing):
Q.C checking time/gmt = 0.84
Total checking time = 0.84*19642 = 16499.28min
Salary of Q.C = 6000/month(14400 min)
Q.C cost at random checking = (6000*16499.28)/14400 = 6874.7Rs
Final Auditing:
Auditor checking time/gmt = 1.5
Total checking time = 1.5*2278 =3417 min
Salary of Auditor = 7500/month(14400 min)
Auditor cost at final checking = (7500*3417)/14400 = 1779.7Rs
Total cost by checkers = 5017.1+6191.4+7579.1= 18787.6Rs
Total cost by Q.C = 6874.7
Total cost by Auditor = 1779.7
Total cost of checking in sewing department = 18787.6+6874.7+1779.7= 27441.9
105
 FINISHING:
From this department also we can get all the 3 types of costs, and as this department is
mainly involved with quality so lot of checking happens which will contribute in total cost.
So before going to calculate cost we need to know different defects and there percentage of
total as shown below.
Style 1:
NO. OF PERCENTAGE
OPERATION NAME
DEFECTS OF TOTAL
Front Placket finish 229 30.9
Collar finish 147 19.8
Bottom Hem 128 17.3
panel damage 94 12.7
Smocking 52 7.0
Collar peak Ready 15 2.0
Sleeve Attach 14 1.9
side seam 12 1.6
Stains 11 1.5
Collar final 9 1.2
Sleeve Hem 9 1.2
Side Attach 8 1.1
Belt tie ready 7 0.9
Button 6 0.8
Total 741 100
106
107
Style 2:
OPERATION NAME NO. OF PERCENTAGE

DEFECTS
sleeve placket attach 599 10.5
bottom hem 594 10.4
Darning 434 7.6
sleeve top stitch & gusset T/S 431 7.5
side seam attach with W/C label 391 6.8
B/H placket attach 318 5.6
gusset & bottom side edge stitch 289 5.0
label attach to back patch fabric 232 4.1
sleeve big placket dia finish 220 3.8
cuff finish 215 3.8
cuff attach 210 3.7
back pointed 194 3.4
front pocket attach 191 3.3
collar band attach to top collar 149 2.6
sleeve o/L &bottom gusset O/L 146 2.5
collar peak ready 116 2.0
collar finish up to satin tape 111 1.9
Stain 109 1.9
side seam top stitch 105 1.8
patch fabric attach to back yoke 101 1.8
collar edge stitch 78 1.4
sleeve tack 70 1.2
pleat making 68 1.2
collar attach 68 1.2
collar ready trim and mark 56 1.0
cuff top stitch 54 0.9
front bust dart stitch with side close 48 0.8
back yoke attach 41 0.7
Button Attach 6 0.1
Total 5726 100
108
109
Considerations:
1. All first checking, Presentation checking, Measurement checking, Final checking, Final inspection
are done by checkers and line quality audit, quality at carton packing checking done by Q.C and
internal audit is done by quality in charge.
2. Factory cost is taken as 2.2 Rs/min.
3. Total people in finishing floor for production = 170
4. Cost incurred to company per gmt in finishing department for style 1 = 12.46 Rs
5. Cost incurred to company per gmt in finishing department for style 2 = 12.35Rs
Style 1:
 Cost of rework:
Total no. of defects = 741
Total rework time = 1013.03 mins
Factory cost/min = 2.2
 COST OF CHECKING:
 First checking:
Total quantity checked = 19676
Checking time/gmt = 1.55 min
Total time = 1.55*19676 = 30497.8 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 30497.8 min = (30497.8*3600)/14400 = 7624.5Rs
 Presentation checking:
Total time = 0.7*19676 = 13773.2 min
Checkers cost for 13773.2min = (13773.2*3600)/14400 =3443.3Rs
110
 Measurement checking:
Total time = 0.13*19676 = 2557.88 min
Checkers cost for 2557.88 min = (2557.88*3600)/14400 = 639.5 Rs
 Final checking:
Total time = 1.2*19676 = 23611.2min
Checkers cost for 23611.2min = (23611.2*3600)/14400 = 5902.8Rs
 Final inspection:
Total time =0.75*125 = 93.75 min
 Line quality audit:
Total time =4.5*7871 = 35419.5 min
Salary of Q.C = 6000/month
Checkers cost for 35419.5min = (35419.5*6000)/14400 = 14758.1Rs
111
 Quality at carton packing:
Total time =0.3*19676 = 5902.8 min
 Internal audit:
Total time =1.392*125 = 174 min
Salary of Incharge= 14000/month
Incharge cost for 174 min = (174*14000)/14400 = 169.2Rs
Cost of checking by checkers = 7624.5+3443.3+639.5+5902.8+23.4 = 17633.5
Cost of checking by Q.C = 29762.2+4960.0 = 17217.6Rs
Cost of checking by Quality in charge = 169.2Rs
Total cost of checking from finishing department = 35020.2
Rework time = 1013.03 min
Avg production/day/170 persons =6349 gmts
Total available minutes/day = 480*170 = 81600 min
Loss of production due to rework = (6349*1013.03)/81600 = 78.8202 gmts
Total cost due to loss of production in finishing department = 78.8202*12.46 = 982.1 Rs
Total cost of quality from this department for this style = 982.1+2228.7+69437.6 = 72648.4 Rs
112
Style 2:
 Cost of rework:
Total no. of defects = 5726
Total rework time = 6437.3965 mins
Factory cost/min = 2.2
 Cost of checking:
First checking:
Total time = 1.46*84020 = 122669.2 min
Presentation checking:
Total time = 0.63*84020 = 52932.6 min
Measurement checking:
Total time = 0.11*84020 = 9242.2 min
113
Final checking:
Total time = 1.15*84020 =96623 min
Checkers cost for 96623 min = (96623*3600)/14400 = 24155.75Rs
Final inspection:
Total time =0.72*250 = 180 min
Checkers cost for 180 min = (180*3600)/14400 = 45Rs
Line quality audit:
Total time =4.27*33608 = 143506.16 min
Q.C cost for 143506.16 min = (143506.16*6000)/14400 = 59794.23333Rs
Quality at carton packing:
Total time =0.3*84020 = 25206 min
Q.C cost for 25206 min = (25206*6000)/14400 = 10502.5Rs
114
Internal audit:
Total time =1.28*250 = 320 min
Salary of incharge = 14000/month
Incharge cost for 320 min = (320*14000)/14400 = 311.11111Rs
Cost of checking by checkers = 30667.3+13233.15+2310.55+24155.75+45 =70411.75Rs
Cost of checking by Q.C = 120585.0372+21180.04167 = 70296.73333Rs
Cost of checking by Quality in charge = 311.11111Rs
Total cost of checking from finishing department = 141019.5944
Rework time = 6437.3965 min
Avg production/day/170 persons =6349 gmts
Total available minutes/day = 480*170 = 81600 min
Loss of production due to rework = (6349*6437.3965)/81600 = 500.87047 gmts
Total cost due to loss of production in finishing department = 500.88*12.35 = 6185.7503 Rs
Total cost of quality from this department for this style = 141019.5944+6185.76+14162.28
= 161367.6Rs
115
 WASHING:
This department is also included as there will be quality checking, rewash, and defects due to
washing. In this department also we can get all the 3 type of costs which will be depicted as below.
Style 1:
 Cost due to rewash:
As there is no rewash for this style there will be no cost.
 Cost for checking:

Total Quantity checked by checkers = 1659
Checking time/gmt = 2.5
Total checking time = 2.5*1659 = 4147.5 mins
Salary of checker = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 1056 mins = (4147.5*3600)/14400 = 1036.875Rs
Total Quantity checked by Q.C = 330
Total checking time = 3.2*330 = 1056mins
Q.C cost for 1056 mins = (1056*6000)/14400 = 440Rs
Cost of checking from washing department for style 1 = 1036.875+440 = 1476.875 Rs
As there is no rewash there will be no loss of production.
Total cost from washing department for style 1 = 1476.875
Style 2:
 Cost of rewash:
Total rewash quantity = 1000 gmts
Cost incurred to company to wash one garment = 1.48 Rs
Total cost to rewash 1000 gmts = 1.48*1000 = 1480 Rs
116
Total Quantity checked by checkers = 4270
Salary of checker = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 11870.6 mins = (11870.6*3600)/14400 = 2967.65Rs
Total Quantity checked by Q.C= 860
Cost of checking from washing department for style 1 = 2967.65+1279.25 = 4246.9Rs
Total Rewash quantity = 1000 gmts
Time taken to rewash = 180 mins
Avg. production/3shifts/150 people = 95000
Minutes available = 24*60*150 = 216000
Loss of production for 180 mins = (180*95000)/216000 = 79
Cost due to loss of production = 79*1.48 = 117
Total cost from washing department for this style = 4246.9+1480+117 = 5844.07
 TESTING:
As testing of fabric and garments are done in house in this unit the cost related to that also need to
be taken as it will also will come under conformance of quality, so from this department cost taken are
depreciation cost of testing machinery, cost of fabric and garments wasted to test, cost of testing.
117
 Depreciation cost:
Consideration:
1. Life of machine taken as 10 years.

2. Depreciation percentage = 10%
3. Average no. of styles per month = 20
4. Average tests done per month = 114
Cost of all machinery = 237200
Depreciation per month = 237200/120 = 1976.666667
Depreciation for one style = 1976.67/20 = 98.84 Rs/month
Depreciation for one style per day = 98.84/30 = 3.8 Rs/day
 Cost due to loss of fabric and garment:
Total garments consumed = 68 gmts
Total fabric consumed = 5mtrs
= 5*0.9346 = 4.673 gmts
Total garments consumed = 68+4.673 = 72.673
Cost incurred to company for one garment = 75.3 Rs
Cost due to loss of garments = 75.3*72.673 = 5472.2769
 Cost for testing:
Total salary of staff and lab assistants =69552/month
Salary per day = 69552/30 = 2318.4 Rs/day
Total costs per day = 2318.4+3.8 = 2322.2 Rs/day
Average no. of tests per day = 114
Average cost per test = 2322.2/114 = 20.37
No. of tests done for our style = 193
118
Total cost for 193 tests = 193*20.37 = 3931.45 Rs
Total cost from testing department = 3931.45+5472.2769 = 9403.72
Style 2:
 Cost due to depreciation:
Cost of all machinery = 237200
Depreciation per month = 237200/120 = 1976.666667
Depreciation for one style = 1976.67/20 = 98.84 Rs/month
Depreciation for one style per day = 98.84/30 = 3.8 Rs/day
Cost due to loss of fabric and garment:
Total garments consumed = 79 gmts
Total fabric consumed = 5mtrs
= 5*0.69783 = 3.48915 gmts
Total garments consumed = 79+3.48915= 82.589 gmts
Cost incurred to company for one garment = 80.43 Rs
Cost due to loss of garments = 80.43*82.589 = 6634.61
 Cost for testing:
Total salary of staff and lab assistants =69552/month
Salary per day = 69552/30 = 2318.4 Rs/day
Total costs per day = 2318.4+3.8 = 2322.2 Rs/day
Average no. of tests per day = 114
Average cost per test = 2322.2/114 = 20.37
No. of tests done for our style = 258
Total cost for 258 tests = 258*20.37 = 5255.51 Rs
Total cost from testing department =5255.51+6634.61= 11890.1Rs
 Inspection:
119
In the process of manufacturing the goods are subjected to inspection at two different stages
namely at fabric audit and other is needle detector, so for this reason we considered depreciation of this
two machines.
Style 1: Cost of all machineries = 957500
Life of machinery = 10 yrs
No. of styles per month = 20
Total depreciation cost = (957500/120)*0.05 = 398.96 Rs

Style 2: Cost of all machineries = 957500
Life of machinery = 10 yrs
No. of styles per month = 20
Total depreciation cost = (957500/120)*0.05 = 398.96 Rs
3.3. CONSOLIDATED COQ DEPARTMENT WISE:
The main conversion from fabric to garment is done in spreading and cutting, sewing, finishing,
washing, and so cost incurred per garment in this department only taken and considered total cost of
manufacturing. So we added all the departments COQ except above and divided by total production so that
we will get share of all departments cost per each garment, we added this in each department according to
their production so that we got total cost of quality.
Cost of quality from stores = 9.79+122.37 = 132.16 Rs
Cost of quality from Sampling = 22.16+33.7 = 55.86 Rs
Cost of quality from fabric audit = 1650.4+30185.55 = 31835.95
Cost of quality from Testing = 9403.73+30185.55 = 39589.27
Cost of quality from inspection equipment’s = 148.958+148.958 = 297.92
Cost of quality from Quality Department = 9867.26+33060.0447 = 42927.3 Rs
Scrap cost for both styles = 21912.3+22842.12 = 44754.42
Total cost from all the above departments = 159592.88
Total production from style 1 = 19916+19892+19676+16583 = 76067
Total production from style 2 = 72581+42699+84020+42699 = 241999
Total production for both styles = 76067+241999 = 318066
120
Cost of quality share from above departments = 159592.88/318066 = 0.501760264Rs
 Spreading and cutting:
Total quantity = 19916+72581 = 92497
Total cost for two styles = (19916*5.92) + (72581*6.52) = 591130.84
COQ for this department = 1925.049328+7620.552247 = 9545.599
Share of cost from other departments = 0.501760264*92557 = 46441.425
COQ per garment = 55987.024/92497 = 0.605285Rs
COQ % in this department = (9545.599/591130.84)*100 = 1.615 %
(Note: For above COQ% we took COQ for only cutting not share from the other
departments)
 Sewing:
Total quantity = 42699+19892 = 62591
Total cost for two styles = (19892*55.44) + (42699*60.08) = 3668168.4 Rs
COQ for this department for both styles = 78027.361+146787.746 = 224815.107 Rs
Share of cost from other departments = 0.501760264*62591 = 31405.67668 Rs
COQ per garment = 256220.7837/62591 = 4.093572298
COQ % in this department = (224815.107/3668168.4)*100 = 6.13%
(Note: For above COQ% we took COQ for only sewing not share from the other departments)
 Finishing:
Total quantity = 19676+84020 = 103696
Total cost for two styles = (19676*12.46) + (84020*12.35) = 1282810 Rs
121
COQ per garment = 251629.1323/103696 = 2.426604
COQ % in this department = (199598.6/1282810)*100 = 15.56%
(Note: For above COQ% we took COQ for only finishing not share from the other departments)
 Washing:
Total quantity = 16583+42699 = 59282
Total cost for two styles = (16583*1.48) + (42699*1.48) = 87737.36 Rs
COQ per garment = 36949.125/59282 = 0.623277302
COQ % in this department = (7203.775/87737.36)*100 = 8.22%
(Note: For above COQ% we took COQ for only washing not share from the other departments)
Total COQ % for two styles:
Total manufacturing cost for two styles = 1490421+4139426 = 5629847
Total COQ for both styles = 162674.9+419767.8 = 582442.7
COQ% for both styles = (582442.7/5629847)*100 = 10.346%
122
CHAPTER 4
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
4.1. FINDINGS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
COQ PER MONTH:
To calculate cost of quality per month from these two styles considerations are
1. As our two styles are having different order quantity and are different products as ladies dress
and ladies casual shirt we have covered some variations which will be there in one month.
2. As our styles has got only internal testing and no embroidery and some other styles will be
sent for the same, so we considered average external testing cost and average embroidery
waste per month also to get closer figure of COQ per month.
 Spreading and cutting:
Average monthly production in spreading and cutting = 161200
Average cost of spreading and cutting per garment = 6.22 Rs
Total cost incurred for this department per month = 161200*6.22 = 1002664 Rs
COQ for 92497 garments = 9545.599 Rs
COQ for 161200 garments = (161200*9545.599)/92497 = 16635.68Rs
COQ per garment = (16635.68/161200) = 0.103199
COQ% per month = (16624.89665/1002664)*100 = 1.66%
 Sewing:
Average monthly production in sewing = 156000
123
Average cost of sewing per garment = 57.76 Rs
Total cost incurred for this department per month = 156000*57.76 = 9010560 Rs
COQ for 156000 garments = (156000*224815.107)/ 62591 = 560322.6773 Rs
COQ per garment = (560322.6773/156000) = 3.591812034 Rs
COQ% per month = (560322.6773/9010560)*100 = 6.22%
 Finishing:
Average monthly production in finishing = 165074
Average cost of finishing per garment = 12.405 Rs
Total cost incurred for this department per month = 165074*12.405 = 2047742.97 Rs
COQ% per month = (317741.6612/2047742.97)*100 = 15.51668%
 Washing:
Average monthly production in washing = 2470000
Average cost of washing per garment = 1.48 Rs
Total cost incurred for this department per month = 2470000*1.48= 3655600 Rs
COQ% per month = (300147.2/3655600)*100 = 8.210614%
 Cost from other departments:
Average production in cutting, sewing, finishing, washing = 165074+156000+161200
= 482274gmts/month
Total production for both styles in all four departments = 318066gmts
124
Cost for 318066 gmts at all four departments = 141279.6 Rs
Cost for 482274 gmts = (482274*141279.6)/318066 = 214218.0485 Rs/month
TOTAL COQ:
COQ of Spreading and cutting = 16624.9
COQ of sewing = 560322.68
COQ of finishing = 317741.6612
COQ of washing = 300147.2
COQ of all other departments = 214218.0485
Total Cost of quality per month = 16624.9+560322.68+317741.6612+300147.2+214218.0485
= 1409054.49 Rs
Total cost of company per month = 12500000 Rs
COQ% of month = (1409054.49/12500000)*100 = 11.27243592

 ACCORDING TO THE ABOVE CALCULATION IT SHOWS THAT THE COQ%
PER MONTH OF THE FACTORY STANDS IN THE THIRD STAGE OF
QUALITY MATURITY GRID WHICH IS ENLIGHTMENT STAGE.
125
4.2. Recommendations:
 The stitching and various production operators should also be explained the importance
of ‘right first time’ quality and how they will be able to improve their earning by
eliminating defects
 Problem solving techniques must be followed to understand the root causes of various
defects found in the garments.
 Suggestions must be invited from the employees on how to protect the garments from
defects during various processes of manufacture.
 Quality awareness program must be organized and the employee should be motivated to
produce a defect free product.
 Zero defect day can be followed once or twice a month when the workers are insisted on
the quality of the product rather than production target.
126
4.3.CONCLUSION
The overall business strategy is to increase profit in a particular product, the

company’s focus should be on reducing quality costs by reducing errors, eliminating non-value-
added activities and waste.
Quality generally is meeting customer requirements, error free, at the lowest possible
costs. A byproduct of quality improvement is the improvement in productivity. By eliminating
errors, non-value-added and waste, resource capacity becomes available.
Increased quality also reduces the production cycle time. It also decreases the use of
machinery and equipment due to less rework. This result in a reduction is asset investment. Less
material are now required due to less scrap, rework and waste.
Improving the quality and productivity increases the profitability of the organization.
Margins are increased due to these lower costs. Increased sales results due to higher conformance
to quality, better on time delivery and opportunity to reduce selling price.
127
128

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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT

SHAHI EXPORTS PVT LTD, BENGALURU

Masters of Fashion Technology-Apparel Production

Department of Fashion Technology

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

Thanking you all.

CHAPTER TITLE PAGE NO

2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT 21

2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT 24

3.2.3.TIME STUDY ANALYSIS FOR CHECKING 86

4 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

SHAHI EXPORTS PVT LTD., BENGALURU

 Be the global best in bringing delight to human life by weaving dreams of

 We are an organization of noble culture with competent human resources,

 Delivering quality product on time

Name of the Company : SHAHI EXPORT PVT. LTD. (UNIT-7A)

Centralized department rendering service to all the units in Bangalore

There are different Strategic Business Units in Shahi Exports as follows:

Other units product are:

Two type of merchandising done in shahi exports

Main function of marketing merchandising is

A Merchandisers key responsibilities are as follows:-

In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior

Obtain tech pack from buyer

Analyze fabric Analyze cost of Obtain general Develop sample as

Prepare cost sheet Develop proto

Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval

Confirmation Yes Approv No Cost sheet

Execution of order by entering details in MOVEX

Prepare sample as per buyer requirements

Forward the sample to buyer for approval

Hold pre production Comments received from buyer

Follow up with Submit required Offer garments Follow up

2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

BASIC WORK FLOW;

Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production

In Shahi, Sampling department is centralized in unit-7 of Shahi, Bangalore for wovens.

There were a total of 80 machines in the sampling department.

 1 conveyor belt fusing machine

 Zigzag Lockstitch machine

 Blind stitch machine

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample

 Style no/ Size

Tech pack received from merchant

Costing CAD Develop sample

Develop fit/proto sample

If any comments If no comments

Revise Fit/Proto PP sample

Revise PP sample Size set sample

If any comments If no comments

Incorporate buyer Sealer sample

Incorporate buyer Bulk production

2.3. FABRIC SOURCING

 The capacity of the store is about 100,000Mts.

 Vardhman mills(H.P) specializes in Solid Dyed 40s Poplin

Fabric requisition from merchandiser

Fabric receive invoice/challan

Unloading after checking

Tally with supplier invoice for quality

Send bill to gate for entry

Receive fabric in store