Apparel Internship Report Document

APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT
conducted at
SAI CREATIONS EXPORT HOUSE
Submitted in partial fulfillment of requirement for the award of degree of

Bachelor of Fashion Technology
Session 2018-2022
Submitted by:
Preeti Baheti
Shubhi Agnihotri
Under the guidance of

Prof. Dr. Amar Tewari
(Professor of NIFT, Gandhinagar)
Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar
Declaration
We declare that all material included in this report is the end result of our own work and that
due acknowledgement have been given in the bibliography and references to all sources be
they printed, electronic or any other source.
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Acknowledgment
We are grateful to Mr. Akash Anand and Mr. Rahul Anand for giving us the opportunity to
work at Sai Creations Export House, Noida, and also for their cooperation, guidance, as well
as encouragement which led to the successful completion of our project.
We want to express our deepest gratitude to our industry mentor, Mr. Gawri Shankar
(Quality Director, Sai Creations Export House), Mr. Ankit Sharma (Ex- VP of Operations)
and Mr. Rahul Anand (Marketing Head), for sharing their experience and knowledge and
without their help these projects would not be possible.
Our deepest appreciation to Dr. Amar Tewari (Professor, Centre Academic Coordinator,
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar) for his constant support and
encouragement throughout the period of internship.
We are indebted to all those individuals who have helped us in gaining knowledge and
insight into various aspects of mapping the standard operating procedure, implementing 5S
on Sewing and Finishing floors and doing the market research for Women’s wear and
WittyBae in Sai Creations Export House.
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Certificates of Internship
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Contents
Chapter One 13
1.1 Sai Creation 13
1.2 Company Profile 14
1.3 Company’s Mission 15
1.4 Company’s Vision 16
1.5 Company’s Values 16
1.6 Product Profile 16
1.6.1 Women’s Wear 17
1.6.2 Kid’s Wear 19
1.6.3 Bags 20
1.6.4 Home Decor 20
1.7 Major Buyers 21
1.8 Company Hierarchy 22
1.9 Process flow of Organization 23
Chapter Two 24
2.1 Marketing 24
2.2 Merchandising 25
2.2.1 Role of the Department- 25
2.2.2 Objectives of Merchandiser- 25
2.2.3 Activities of Merchandising Department 27
2.2.4 Documents used by Merchandising Department- 29
2.2.5 Process flow of Merchandising Department 30
Chapter Three 31
3.1 Sampling Department 31
3.2 Process Flow 33
Chapter Four 35
4.1 Fabric, Trim and Accessories Store 35
4.2 Fabric Store 36
4.2.1 Types of Fabric Stored: 37
4.2.2 Fabric Issued to: 37
4.2.3 Fabrics are Inspected for: 37
4.2.4 Fabric Store Process Flow 39
4.3 Trim Store: 40
4.3.1 Role of Trim Department: 40
4.3.2 Various Types of Trims: 41
4.3.3 Process Flow of Trim Store 42
4.4 Fabric Inspection 43
4.4.1 Fabric Inspection Report 45
4.4.2 Procedures in Fabric Inspection 45
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Chapter Five 49
5.1 CAD Department 49
5.1.1 Marker Planning 49
5.1.2 Process Flow in CAD Department 51
5.2 Spreading 51
5.3 Cutting 53
5.3.1 Fusing 54
5.4 Ticketing & Bundling 54
5.5 Process flow of Spreading & Cutting Department 56
5.6 Re-cutting 57
5.7 Embroidery 57
Chapter Six 58
6.1 Sewing Department 58
6.2 Process flow of Sewing Department 60
Chapter Seven 62
7.1 Washing 62
7.2 Process flow of Washing 64
Chapter Eight 65
8.1 Finishing Department 65
8.2 Process Flow of Finishing Department 65
Chapter Nine 72
9.1 Human Resource Department 72
9.1.1 Coverage and Guidelines 72
9.1.2 Administrations 72
9.1.3 Confidentiality 73
9.1.4 HR Mission 73
9.2 HR Policy 73
9.2.1 Attendance 73
9.2.2 Public Holidays 73
9.2.3 Recruitment Policy 74
9.2.4 Joining Formalities and Induction 75
Chapter Ten 76
10.1 Project 1 76
Implementation Of 5S 76
Abstract 76
Introduction 76
Objective 77
Problem definition and Methodology 77
5s Implementation On: 77
Sewing Floor 77
Finishing Floor 88
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Outcome 96
Conclusion 96
Learning outcome 97
10.2 Project 2 98
Standard Operating System For Sai Creations 98
Abstract 98
Introduction 98
Objective 98
Problem definition and methodology 99
Department-wise Standard Operating Procedures: 99
1.Merchandising Department 99
2. Fabric Store 102
3. Cutting Department 104
4. Sewing Department 105
5. Finishing Department 107
Outcome 109
Conclusion 109
Learning outcome 109
10.3 Project 3 110
Market Research 110
Abstract 110
Objective 110
Problem definition and Methodology 110
Introduction 110
Blossom 111
Wittybae 111
Outcome 111
Conclusion 111
Learning outcome 112
Bibliography 113
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List of Tables
S. No. Name Page No.
1 Table 1.1: Company Profile 15
2 Table 4.1: 4-Point System Defect Point Table 44
3 Table 4.2: Fabric Defects 44
4 Table 4.3: pH Values for different category 48
5 Table 5.1: Layer height based on fabric type 53
6 Table 10.1 Sort- Sewing floor 79
7 Table 10.2 Set in order- Sewing floor 79
11 Table 10.6 Shine- Sewing floor 82
12 Table 10.7 Standardize- Sewing floor 84
15 Table 10.10 Sort- Finishing floor 88
16 Table 10.11 Set in order- Finishing floor 89
20 Table 10.15 Shine- Finishing floor 93
21 Table 10.16 Standardize- Finishing floor 94
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List of Figures
S. No. Name Page No.
1 Fig. 1.1: Sai Creation 13
2 Fig 1.2: Values 16
3 Fig 1.3: Women’s Wear 18
4 Fig 1.4: Kid’s Wear 19
5 Fig 1.5: Bags 20
6 Fig 1.6: Home Concept 20
7 Fig 1.7: Clients 21
8 Fig 1.8: Company Hierarchy 22
9 Fig 1.9: Process flow of Organization 23
10 Fig 2.1: Design Section 24
11 Fig 2.2: Merchandising Department 26
12 Fig 2.3: Process flow of Merchandising Department 30
13 Fig 3.1: Sampling Department 31
14 Fig 3.2: Flow chart of sampling process 33
15 Fig 3.3: Design to Pattern 34
16 Fig 3.4: Cutting in Sampling Department 34
17 Fig 4.1: Quality Stickers for Inspection 36
18 Fig 4.2: Fabric Store 37
19 Fig 4.3: Process flow of Fabric Store 39
20 Fig 4.4: Trim Store 40
21 Fig 4.5: Process flow of Trim Store 42
22 Fig 4.6: Fabric Inspection Machine 43
23 Fig 4.7: Fabric Inspection Table 45
24 Fig 4.8: Internal Lab 46
25 Fig 4.9: Chemist Sheet 47
26 Fig 5.1: CAD Department 49
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27 Fig 5.2: Hanbond-H8 plus 50
28 Fig 5.3: Process flow of CAD Department 51
29 Fig 5.4: Spreading & Cutting Department 52
30 Fig 5.5: Cutting Table 53
31 Fig 5.6: Kingsew Straight Knife 54
32 Fig 5.7: Fusing Machine 54
33 Fig 5.8: Process flow of Spreading & Cutting Department 56
34 Fig 6.1: Sewing Floor (D-129) 58
35 Fig 6.2: Sewing Department 59
36 Fig 6.3: Process flow of Sewing Department 60-61
37 Fig 7.1: Washing Area 62
38 Fig 7.2: Process Flow of Washing 64
39 Fig 8.1: Process Flow of Finishing Department 66
40 Fig 8.2: Spot Removal 67
41 Fig 8.3: Material Safety Data Sheet 68
42 Fig 8.4: Pressing Area 69
43 Fig 8.5: Measurement Audit Report 69
44 Fig 8.6: Packaging Area 70
45 Fig 8.7: Easement Needle Detector 71
46 Fig 9.1: Policies 72
47 Fig 10.1: Trims and accessories 79
48 Fig 10.2: Cut panels 80
49 Fig 10.3: Accepting and rejecting boxes 81
50 Fig 10.4: Racks 82
51 Fig 10.5: Dirty pathways 83
52 Fig 10.6: Clean pathways 83
53 Fig 10.7: Color coded jacket 84
54 Fig 10.8: Cut panels organization 85
55 Fig 10.9: Unwanted heaps lying in the corner 86
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56 Fig 10.10: 5S chart - sewing floor 87
57 Fig 10.11: Walking pathways 89
58 Fig 10.12: Accepting and rejecting boxes 90
59 Fig 10.13: Personal belongings 91
60 Fig 10.14: Rejected garments 92
61 Fig 10.15: Waste lying on the floor 93
62 Fig 10.16: Usage of polybags to collect waste 94
63 Fig 10.17: Standardization 95
64 Fig 10.18: 5S chart - finishing floor 96
65 Fig 10.19: SOP of Merchandising Department 101
66 Fig 10.20: SOP of Fabric Store 103
67 Fig 10.21: SOP of Cutting Department 105
68 Fig 10.22: SOP of Sewing Department 106
69 Fig 10.23: SOP of Finishing Department 108
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Chapter One
1.1 Sai Creation
Fig. 1.1: (Baheti, Preeti. “Sai Creation” 2021.JPEG file)
Sai Creations is an apparel, fashion accessory and home goods export house which
is involved in producing and export of the fashion apparels and various other
relevant products in the international market since 1994 along with an annual
turnover of 80 crores. They have worked for over 2 decades in this industry, hence,
they have grown to be one of the known companies of the fashion industry and
retained a good position while catering the quality goods to various renowned
international brands.
Sai Creations, steered by the efforts of about 950 employees; has 2 production
factories. On our tenure of internship they closed their rented factory and bought
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another unit near their HQ. They are a formidable force to meet any goal and
deadline.
The focus of the export house has always been on the production of high-quality fast
fashion garments. The client list speaks volume for the commitment Sai Creations
has towards customer satisfaction. The markets to which a chuck of exports go to
are Australia, US, UK, South Africa. The clients have relied on the company’s
commitment and that is a testimonial to the always on the time delivery and quality
checks, finishing and shipment are all taken care by exceptionally motivated and
experienced staff.
1.2 Company Profile
Name Sai Creations- Star Export House
Year Of Establishment 1994
Annual Turnover 80 crore
Managing Director (Founder) Raj Kumar Anand
Co-founder Mrs. Anita Anand
Marketing Director Rahul Anand
Director of Operations Akash Anand
Address Sai Creations- Star Export House,
Sector 63, D- 134, Noida,
14
Uttar Pradesh, India
Number Of Employees 950
Production Capacity 4,50,000 units/month
Around 700 machines over 2 units
Product Categories Apparels: Women’s & Kid’s wear
Accessories: Scarves, Stoles, Bags.
Home Decor:Cushion Cover, Bed

Sheets, Curtains, etc.
Certifications BCI (Better Cotton Initiative)
GOTS (Global Organic Textile

Standards)
Sedex
Table 1.1: Company Profile
1.3 Company’s Mission

● To meet and exceed their customer’s expectations through innovative
products delivered to agreed quality standards, on time every time.
● To achieve the above, they endeavor to meet the career aspirations of

their employees and make matrix a fun place to work in.
● And finally, they aim to fulfill the expectations of their shareholders, supply
chain partners and the communities they operate in.
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1.4 Company’s Vision
● To inspire and lead the Apparel Industry through Integrity, Innovation,
Collaboration and Operational Excellence
1.5 Company’s Values
Fig 1.2: (Anonymous, “Values”2008. saicreation.co.in)
● Ethical: They maintain integrity in their dealings with all their stakeholders.
● Employee Centric: They strive to be a Great Place to Work, where

employees give their best and have fun doing it.
● Innovation: They are never satisfied with the status quotient and always
strive to find better ways of doing things.
● Reliable: They don’t promise what they cannot deliver and will not
compromise on quality.
● Environment Friendly: They are conscious of the environmental impact of

their activities, including doing their bit for the communities in which they
operate.
1.6 Product Profile

Sai Creations has a wide range of products in garments for women and kids capable
of manufacturing quality garments over a wide range of styles.
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1.6.1 Women’s Wear
They produce from casual daywear to sparkling evening outfits. Their product range
is available in many eye-catching silhouettes and colors as per the trends of the
global market. They have experience in handling all kinds of fabrics, be it woven as
well as knits (outsource).
They have a womenswear collection ranging from petite to plus size, including
garments like tops, bottoms, dresses and many more.
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Fig 1.3: (Anonymous, “Women’s Wear” 2020.JPEG file)
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1.6.2 Kid’s Wear
Sai Creations offers a wide range of kid’s wear. Their product range is available in a
variety of appealing styles and colors as per the demand of the global market.
The clothes are made keeping all safety measures in consideration, without the
usage of any harmful chemicals. The different varieties of garments are produced for
girls and boys for various seasons, incorporating vibrant colors and of quality.
Fig. 1.4: (Anonymous, “Kid’s Wear” 2020.JPEG file)
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1.6.3 Bags
The product range contains a large variety of bags, basically consisting of tote bags.
Fig 1.5: (Anonymous.”Bags” 2019.JPEG file.)
1.6.4 Home Decor

The range comprises wall hangings and bed linens to curtains, pillows and pillow
covers, Sai Creations has an eclectic mix of contemporary products. Sustainability is
at the core of Sai Creations, which ensures minimum wastage.
They have a separate home concepts facility in Panipat. Cushions, pillows, pouffes,
curtains, bed linen, rugs, throws, wall hangings, doormat and many more
mesmerising products are present. They specialize in fabrics like Linen, Kantha
Quilting, Hemp, Rattan etc.
Fig 1.6: (Anonymous. “Home Concept” 2019. JPEG File)
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1.7 Major Buyers
Fig 1.7: (Anonymous.”Clients” 2018.JPEG File)
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1.8 Company Hierarchy
Fig 1.8: (Baheti, Preeti.”Company Hierarchy” 2021. JPEG file)
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1.9 Process flow of Organization
Fig 1.9: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Process flow of Organization” 2021.PNG File)
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Chapter Two
2.1 Marketing
Mr. Rahul Anand is the Marketing Head of Sai Creations. The organization believes
in direct contact with their buyers. They used to have business in two ways one
through the buying agencies while another with unmediated buyers or liaison offices.
They follow three practices to grab business around the world-
● Travel & Local Market Research- They schedule meetings with different
buyers by connecting with them from different social media platforms like
linkedin for instance. And when they go to the local markets in different cities
of their target country, they get to know about various other buyers and they
research about them and connect and set up meetings with them through
linkedin or gmail.
● Linkedin- They mainly use linkedin to connect with different people from
brands like forever 21 (current main client), zara, etc.
● Referencing- Referencing here means for instance they are one of the major
nominated factories in India for the Cotton on Group, Australia, so through
this group they’ve been referenced to other buyers in Australia and hence
build their network like this.
In the next five years, they are planning to set up offices or companies in different
countries where they can directly coordinate with the buyers of companies having
similar portfolios or they have the possibility to produce the requisite. They are
already working to expand their export company into multi-national in Los Angeles,
further planning to open offices in countries like Australia and the United Kingdom.
They believe that it may be a cost-oriented affair but worth it for better connection
and communication with their direct customers.
Fig 2.1: (Baheti, Preeti. “Design Section” 2021.JPEG file.)
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2.2 Merchandising
Merchandising department plays a critical role in the fulfilment of an export order.
The successful processing of an export order requires multiple procedures in
merchandising divisions.
The term Merchandising is the process of dealing with any product from its sales
confirmation, design analysis, raw material sourcing, production and quality control
and shipment arrangement to the customer within a specific time frame. This is the
heart of the organization.
2.2.1 Role of the Department-

● To look for the appropriate market
● To get the samples made according to the buyer’s specification
● To estimate and quote the cost of the garment to the buyer and negotiate with
them
● Getting orders
● Constant interaction with the buyer for the approval
● To get the fabric and trims in-house for bulk production
● Coordinating with the PPC and production
2.2.2 Objectives of Merchandiser-

● To create market
● Understanding buyer’s requirements
● Sourcing of materials, fabrics
● Select the range
● Creating the product
● Taking buyers approvals
● Negotiating with buyer
● Procuring the orders
● Materializing the order
● Execution of the order
● Coordination between production and production planning department
● Dispatching the shipment
After shipment and dispatching merchandiser is also responsible for buyer claim,
profit and subsequent orders. If the buyer has any problem with the quality of the
product, then it is the responsibility of the merchandiser to resolve the problem with
the buyer.
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Fig 2.2: (Baheti, Preeti.”Merchandising Department” 2021. JPEG File.)
Merchandising department is basically responsible for two stages of a product:

1. Development Stage is the stage when the dimensions, costing, fabric, trims,
looks and fittings are decided.
2. Production Stage is the stage when the final product is decided and it is then
checked for bulk production.
At all these stages samples are made for the particular style to be ordered.
Development Stage- Each kind of sample is made for four places, one they keep for
themselves and the last one for a factory i.e. for bulk production.
Whenever any sample is dispatched it does so with a dispatch challan. Three copies
of it are made; one kept by the merchandising department, the other to the buyer
and third to the factory.
The four samples in development stage being:

a. Proto Stage: It is done to analyse the look of the garment. It is also called
production development pack pattern for dummy fit. In this the fabric used is
of the similar quality (count/construction/GSM) as the original. Color can be
different from the original but for all samples the color should be one. Trims
can be supplementary. Measurements are not accurate. Costing is done at
this stage.Buyer sends all tech packs of its styles and information through an
email. It is not confirmed at this stage that the buyer will order or not. Then the
meeting happens on the buyer’s side where they decide what is to be done
and finalize colors as well as trims. They give comments on the proto sample
and see ways of cost saving.
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b. LA Sample: Line Adoption sample is made keeping all the changes done in
proto sample. At this stage, it is of a particular style, if there are three colors
then the samples will be made for all of them. The costing will be altered.
Everything used in this sample will match all the specifications from fabric to
trims. Measurements may vary. This sample’s fabric and trims are ordered
from suppliers with a deadline. This sample is made from FOB from a
supplier.
In general for fabric it is 25-30 days and for trims it is 10-15 days. In case of late
deliveries reasons are to be mentioned and dates are rescheduled.
These were the sample approvals at the development stage.

Now samples at production stage:
a. Fit Sample: After confirmation of the few styles out of all sent styles, a fit
sample is made. For each style, one sample is made. The color of fabric can
be different and substitute trims can be used. The samples are sent to the
buyer’s technicians with patterns of the garment. Buyer gives comments on
the garment for further improvement. Once it is approved; bulk is ordered.
b. Bulk Header Sample: If any style requires embroidery then according to
specifications, they send the style for confirmation.
c. TOP Sample: Top of Production sample is pulled out from the first 100
garments of the production line of the bulk production. This sample needs to
be a representation of production fit, construction trims, labels, hang tags,
price tickets, packaging and any other embellishments. It must be in the
correct sample size and one of every ordered color unless specified. It is to be
sent as reference, confirmation of receipt will equal acceptance for shipment.
2.2.3 Activities of Merchandising Department

1. Order Confirmation and Follow Up:
● This department is the main link between the factory and the buyers. The
buyers rely on the merchandisers to provide them with the information
regarding the capacity available, the style feasibility and the setting up of
delivery dates for the shipment.
● This process involves receiving the initial order details from the buyer’s
representation and communicating through E-mail and telephonic
conversations.
● The merchandising team keeps the buyer updated about all the developments
taking place regarding the order.
● The order booking and the order confirmation details are received by the
merchandising team who further transfers this information to the other
departments.
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2. Preparation of Bill of Materials (BOM):
The merchandising team receives the details of all the style features in the
particular order. This also includes the following:
● Fabric quality details
● Thread details
● Finish details
● Accessories like beads, sequins, laces, etc.
● Prints and embroidery
● Trims like buttons,zippers
● Wash care labels
● Size labels
● Brand labels
● Packing material details
Besides this, the merchandisers also receive the fabric consumption per garment for
complete size set from the sampling section, thread consumption per garment from
the Planning Department and the accessories requirement per garment from the
sampling department. Based on this information received, the merchandiser
prepares a Bill of Materials (BOM).
3. Coordinating the Sample Development Process:

● The merchandising department plans and coordinates the activities of the
sampling department.
● The sampling section is given the Tech Pack which contains all the relevant
details.
● The samples are sent to the merchandising department for initial approvals
according to the spec sheet provided by the buyer. The samples are sent to
the buyer for approvals only when they are approved by the merchandising
department.
● The sampling department is also informed by the merchandising department
about the types of samples required by the buyer.
● The merchandiser receives the buyer comments for all the samples and
makes sure it is informed of the sampling and the necessary changes made in
all the required areas.
4. Interpreting the Tech Pack provided by the Buyer:

The technical folder or tech-pack is the reference for each department
whenever it comes to any information about the buyer requirements. The
buyer states all his requirements in a precise manner in it.
The following are the common details which are found in it:
● Size and Color wise quantity
● Dispatch dates for all the lots and the quantity for the lots
● Total order quantity
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● Cutting details
● Construction sheet
● Finishing and packing details
● Specification sheet
5. Providing detailed information about fabric,trims and accessories:

● GSM of all the types of fabrics used in the garment
● Fabric construction
● Fiber types
● Fabric/garment finish type and hand feel description
● Buyer nominated supplier (in certain cases)
● Fabric swatch
2.2.4 Documents used by Merchandising Department-

1. Tech-Pack:
It contains all the technical details about the garment to be manufactured. It
consists of the construction details, type of fabrics to be used, trims and
accessories that are required.
2. Time and Action Plan:
It contains the time period that is allotted for a particular action. The action
means the list of activities to perform for completion of an order. For
examples, time consumed by samples need to be made, sent and approved,
the time it takes to get the purchase order, the time taken for getting the bulk
fabric, accessories and trims, the total time required in the production
department i.e., from cutting to packaging and also the time for shipping and
documentation. The difference between the planned and actual; dates should
be balanced and it is usually made for a total of 90 days from the order
receive date to the shipment date.
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2.2.5 Process flow of Merchandising Department
Fig 2.3:(Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Process Flow of Merchandising Department” 2021. PNG File)
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Chapter Three
3.1 Sampling Department
The sampling department directly coordinates with the merchandising and
production department. Merchandiser procures orders from the buyer. The buyer
sends the specification sheet, sketches, fabric details, embellishment details, stitch
type etc., to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this information along with the
details regarding costing, average consumption, prototype, fit, correction, size set
and approval into a style package and hands it over to the sampling department
head.
Sampling department is the most important department for any garment

manufacturing company. The samples are done according to priority. The one with
an early delivery date is done first. The buyer sends a mail to the merchandiser and
with it the merchandiser receives the tech pack with all needed specifications. If a
sample is sent, then the sample head receives an email with necessary changes in
the form of comments in the tech pack. Most samples are made of one basic size.
This department also receives shrinkage reports of the particular fabric. There is no
particular lead time for any sample to get completed. This department takes all the
necessary time needed to complete any garment so that they give the right result to
the production department and buyer.
Fig 3.1: (Agnihotri,Shubhi. “Sampling Department” 2021. JPEG File)
● Proto Sample:
Proto sample is the first sample in the production development stage in the
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apparel industry. It is prepared according to the buyer’s specification. This
type of sample is designed by the designers. Fit and fabric detailing is not
considered in this sample.
● Fit Sample:
Fit samples are samples produced by a manufacturer so that the company
purchasing the product can review the garments to make certain they fit
properly to the human body. In other words, the primary function of a fit
sample is to evaluate fit.
● Pre-production Sample:
Pre-production samples are essentially an example of what will be produced
during the manufacturing processes. The pre-production samples are
garments that are produced in the facility that is planning to manufacture the
bulk order.
● Size Set Sample:

The main purpose of the size set sample is to check the factory’s capability to
make the sample in all sizes. The size set should be made in the actual fabric
and trims. The samples can be made in the sampling room or actual
production floor, as required by the buyer.
● Pilot Run Sample:

A pilot run is a precautionary manufacturing process of garments
manufacturing after PP meeting and before starting bulk production.
● TOP Sample:
TOP stands for “top of production” and is a set of samples that is taken off the
line during your first production run. Top of production is the final sample
stage that happens during production where we get to see what our line will
look like before it reaches our customers.
● Shipment Sample:
This is the sample which is required by the buyer after the final inspection is
passed and the goods are ready for shipment.
● Salesman Sample:
Salesman sample is used by the sales team of buyers to enhance the sales of
any garment. Buyer sends the sample to the salesman in the market to
receive market feedback from the customers.
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3.2 Process Flow
Fig 3.2: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.”Flow chart of Sampling Process” 2021.PNG File)
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Fig 3.3: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.”Design to Pattern” 2021. JPEG file)
Fig 3.4: (Agnihotri, Shubhi. “Cutting in Sampling Department” 2021.JPEG File)
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Chapter Four
4.1 Fabric, Trim and Accessories Store
Fabric and trim stores receive a merchant file from the merchandising department
which mentions all the specifications required as well as the requirement of fabric for
production. The file contains swatch and trim cards, BOM, the style image and
approved details about raw materials.
The fabric in Sai Creations comes from the textile industries of South, like
Coimbatore, Tripura, Salem by companies like Gnanam Tex and also from Surat.
They source majorly three types of fabric- Yarn Dyed Cotton, Greige 100% Cotton
which is further sent for dyeing and 100% polyester. The yarn dyed and polyester
can be arrived in 30-35 days whereas dyed fabric can arrive in 40-45 days. The first
two come from the south whereas polyester comes from Surat.
Then in the fabric store first of bulk arrive to check if:
● The fabric required is printed then strike-off is checked for the scaling of
design, colour and print. The strike-off is a sample of fabric printed on the
requirements approved by the buyer.
● The solid colour fabric returned after dyeing is checked if the pantone colour
is the same, lab-dips are matched.
● The yarn dyed fabric receives bit loom which is one kind of fabric
development sample to have an idea how the fabric will be constructed.
Then the bulk is accepted to be arrived if no corrections are needed otherwise

re-corrections are requested from suppliers.
After the bulk arrives the fabric is expected to be inspected 100% on the 4 point
system as well as check for colour bleeding, crocking, etc. Then after it passes on
the quality it is given the green sticker on it specifying the details about inspection.
There are other two stickers like slips of red and yellow which show the rejected
fabric and fabric whose further decision is to be taken by the merchant.
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Fig 4.1: (Agnihotri, Shubhi. “Quality Stickers for Inspection” 2021. JPEG File.)
After the fabric is passed the entry is done in the ERP (Enterprise Resource
Planning) for which at present they are using GreenMaple, in the past they used
Bluekaktus and in the present course another ERP named VisibleGems seminars
are going on in Sai Creations. GreenMaple was easier to use with more features in
comparison to Bluekaktus whereas they are switching to VisibleGems as it is easier
to update the process in between and is more flexible as well as advance from the
later one.
The requirement slips from the cutting department comes in the fabric store to issue
challan for the same which keeps a track of how much fabric is issued and to which
unit. The main role of the store is to track the order from the supplier as well as the
internal sourcing of the raw materials.
The trim and accessories store track the same. The trims involved here are zippers,
lace, buttons, wash-care label and thread whereas accessories include hang tag,
size tape, etc. The lace used is majorly croatia and knitted which is chemically
treated whose prime supplier is which can be available in 15-20 days after ordering.
4.2 Fabric Store

The Fabric Store Department plays an important role from getting the fabric to
sending the fabric for cutting and then further in the production department. The
merchandiser meets the fabric sourcing department and gives the details of the
fabric to be procured for the particular style. Fabric stores will take care of received
36
fabric lots as per the standard procedures. When the fabric is received from the
supplier, it is received along with an invoice which will contain the order reference
number and the buyer name. The fabric rolls are then checked whether the invoice
quantity and the actual quantity are same or not.
Fig 4.2: (Baheti, Preeti. “Fabric Store” 2021. JPEG File)
The swatches of fabrics are cut beforehand from the fabric rolls and they are used
for shrinkage tests. Markings are done on the swatch before washing and after
washing those marks are re-measured for shrinkage. Codes on fabric are written
which depict its color shade, length, width and style. According to shrinkage, patterns
are made. Each roll has its own shrinkage. Each style has a unique ‘DO’ number
which is given by the company.
4.2.1 Types of Fabric Stored:

● Double Jersey
● Knitted
● Lace
● Mesh
● Chambray
● Corduroy
● Cotton
● Fur
4.2.2 Fabric Issued to:

● Production for production pieces
● Sampling Department for sampling pieces
4.2.3 Fabrics are Inspected for:

● GSM
● Width
● Shade
37
● Weaving defects
● Shrinkage (steam and fusing)
● Color fastness
● Hand feel
● Face side
Each roll before being sent for spreading is passed through a relaxing process; in
this process the roll is kept for 24 hours or as specified by the buyer, for relaxing so
that cutting is accurate.
38
4.2.4 Fabric Store Process Flow
Fig. 4.3: (Agnihotri, Shubhi. “Process Flow of Fabric Store” 2021. JPEG File.)
39
4.3 Trim Store:
● Trims are an essential part of the construction of the garment. The trims
department controls the trims sourcing from various suppliers and then it is
supplied to the various departments at specified time as per the requirement.
The department does the function of inspection. And after inspection the trims
are stored in the store and then are issued to the particular department on
requisition.
Fig. 4.4: (Baheti, Preeti.”Trim Store” 2021.JPEG File)
● The duty of it is to keep the stock of different accessories and trims, machine
accessories, consumables and packing materials.
● Trims and accessories like- threads, labels, hand tags, buttons, etc.
● Machine accessories like- needle, presser foot,etc.
● Consumables like- oil, grease, chalks, etc.
● Packing Materials like- poly bags, cartons, hand bags, etc.
● They also keep the stock of folders and attachments and stationary needed
by the factory.
Storage: The trims and the accessories store have different racks allotted buyer
wise, for the storage of incoming trims and accessories. The goods are stored in
boxes or cardboard or in plastic bins
4.3.1 Role of Trim Department:

● Maintaining trims in a clean environment
● Brand labels in safety
40
● Exact issuing of materials
● Keeping track of the stock
● Replenishing the store
● Keeping track of the leftovers
4.3.2 Various Types of Trims:

1. Labels: Main Label, Size Label & Wash Care Label.
2. Threads: Embroidery Threads & Stitching Threads
3. Price Tag
4. Sticker
5. Polybags
6. Ribbons
7. Lace
8. Fusing
9. Hanger
10. Buttons
11. Fusing
41
4.3.3 Process Flow of Trim Store
Fig. 4.5: (Agnihotri, Shubhi. “Process Flow of Trim Store” 2021. PNG File)
42
4.4 Fabric Inspection
After the fabric is received, it is inspected to determine its acceptability from a quality
point of view; otherwise, extra cost in garment manufacturing may be incurred due to
either the loss of the material or time, to say nothing of customer returns and
dissatisfaction due to poor quality. Fabric inspection prior to spreading will remove
the burden of quality responsibility from those performing the spreading and cutting
functions.
The important point is fabric should be inspected before cutting, the defects marked
and the patterns cut around the defects so as not to include them in the finished
garments.
The GSM is also calculated. The fabric is cut from the middle to take out the GSM as
the fabric on the ends or on the sides will not be in a correct position as it undergoes
a lot of stretch and stress. The fabric is cut into two halves. One half is cut to take out
the GSM. The other half of the fabric is folded and kept with other fabrics to see if
there is any shade variation among the rolls.
Fig. 4.6: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Fabric Inspection Machine” 2021. JPEG File.)
The company follows a 4-point system of inspection.

The 4 Point System: It is also called the American Apparel Manufacturers
Association (AAMA) point-grading system for determining the fabric quality.
Fabric flaws and defects are assigned point values based on the following:
43
Length of defect Penalty Points Allotted
3 inches 1
3-6 inches 2
6-9 inches 3
Over 9 inches 4
Holes & Openings 2

(1 inch or less)
Holes & Openings 4

(over 1 inch)
Table 4.1: 4-Point System Defect Point Table
Total defect points per 100 sq. yards are calculated, and normally those fabric rolls
containing more that 40 points per 100 sq. yard are considered “seconds”. However,
different buyers have their different acceptance criteria.
Most prominent fabric faults to be looked upon are:
Major woven fabric defects Slubs, holes, missing yarn,

conspicuous yarn variation, end
out, soiled yarn, wrong yarn.
Major knitted fabric defects Mixed yarn, yarn variation, runner,

needle line, barre, slub, hole, and
press off.
Major dye or printing defects Out of register, dye spots,

machine stop, color out, color
smear, or shading.
Table 4.2: Fabric Defects
44
Fig. 4.7: (Baheti, Preeti.”Fabric Inspection Table” 2021. JPEG File)
4.4.1 Fabric Inspection Report

It contains the following details:
● Fabric: The type of fabric which is being inspected.
● Color: The color of the fabric.
● Buyer’s name
● Style number
● Lot number
● Width
● GSM
● Number of rolls
4.4.2 Procedures in Fabric Inspection

As the rolls are being inspected, the roll number is noted down. For every roll
number the following details have to determined as well as calculated:
● Number of Pieces: These are the number of fabric pieces in the whole roll. If
the fabric has a defect which is stretched over a particular length and width,
then the fabric is cut from that portion, hence two pieces are obtained within
the same roll.
● Weight of the fabric roll
● GSM calculated
● Width
● Points’ calculation: This is to see how many defect lie under the category of 1
point, 2-point, 3 point or 4 point and their respective total points
45
● Point allowed: The total points to be allowed are calculated via a standard
formula= Weight of all (kg)X 383/GSM
● Accept/Reject: Then the decision is made whether to accept or reject the
particular lot. This is determined again by a formula= Total Points X
100/Points Allowed.
● This tells whether to grade the fabric as A,B,C or D grade.
○ 0- 25%: A= Accepted
○ 25- 50%: B= Under Decision
○ 50- 75%: C= Under Decision
○ 75% and above: D= Rejected
Fig.4.8: (Baheti, Preeti.”Internal Lab” 2021.JPEG File.)

● Color Fastness:
○ The assessment is done by visually comparing the difference in color
or contrast between the untreated and treated specimens with the
differences represented.
○ Color fastness is also checked by wet rubbing in order to determine the
resistance of the color to rubbing.
○ Color fastness is also checked with dry rubbing in order to determine
the resistance of the color to rubbing.
● Shrinkage:
Shrinkage is a dimensional change in the fabric resulting in the length or width
of a specimen subjected to conditions (usually through the process of
laundry). Shrinkage is mainly due to yarn swelling and the resulting crimp
increase during washing in case of cotton fabrics. Yarn swelling percentage is
more in polyester cotton blended yarn.
Each fabric roll of a particular style has different shrinkages. As for fabrics
with different shrinkage, the markers are to be developed accordingly by
grading (upgrading, downgrading) the size of marker. Shrinkage is important
46
as the fabric after wash will shrink or change its dimensions differently for
different fabric rolls and if in cutting the fabrics with different shrinkage are cut
together, then at later stage in the sewing section the different parts of the
garment will shrink differently after dyeing; giving the garment a deformed
shape and hence would be rejected.
Fig. 4.9: (Agnihotri, Shubhi. “Chemist Sheet” 2021. JPEG File)

● Fabric pH:
A swatch of 10 inches square of the fabric is put in the boiling water for 20
minutes. After that the swatch is removed and the boiled water is let to cool at
room temperature for a few minutes. Then the pH of it is measured by pH
paper.
Category pH Value
Category A (textile products 4.0 to 7.5

for infants and young
children)
47
Category B (textile products 4.0 to 8.5
in direct contact with skin)
Category C (textile products 4.0 to 9.0

not in direct contact with skin)
Table 4.3: pH Values for different category
48
Chapter Five
5.1 CAD Department
In the Computer Aided Design Department patterns were being developed by
software Optitex. Mr. Sanjay, the head of the CAD department, digitizes the paper
patterns through digitizer. Patterns initially are made in only one size and then
graded for a complete range of sizes.
The previous softwares used by the company were Tukacad, Gerber Technology,
and Red tree. The changes happen due to the fact that optitex provides better
optimisation and is user-friendly. The usual comments of buyers related to the
pattern are directly corrected in the respective DXF file of that style.
Fig. 5.1. (Baheti, Preeti.”CAD Department” 2021.JPEG File)
The function carried out in the CAD department are as follows:

● Fabric Consumption planning
● Cut Planning
● Marker Making
● Data Entry
● Lay report generation
● Pattern Plotting (if required)
5.1.1 Marker Planning

Cutting department makes a marker plan after receiving following details:
● Pattern detail from CAD department
● Fabric width detail from fabric store department
● Fabric consumption from merchandising department
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Procedures:
● Buyer or designer sends a soft pattern or sketch.
● A master in the sampling department develops a paper pattern that has to be
developed as per sketch and later on it is to digitize a soft pattern.
● Note: Adding shrinkage percentage length and width wise and fabric usable
width in a pattern as per details received from fabric department for particular
purchase order.
● A pattern to be approved by Style Executive
● A sample garment to be developed as per approved pattern
● Sample to be approved by buyer; buyer sends comments and size ratio.
● CAD technician is to do grading as per size ratio and specification sheet
● Sampling department is to develop size set and send to buyer for approval
● Buyer will place a purchase order
● If buyer asked for pre-production sample, pre-production sample is to be
developed and buyer approval needs to be taken
● Simultaneously, Purchase/ merchandising department has to procure fabric,
trims and accessories
● Bulk production starts after taking approval of pre-production sample and
buyer comments taken into consideration
● Cutting department is to prepare the cut plan for a required purchase order as
per required size, ratio and color.
● CAD operator is to develop a marker plan as per required size, ratio and
usable fabric width.
● The general efficiency of the marker ranges from 75% to 80%.
Fig 5.2: (Baheti, Preeti.”Hanbond-H8 plus” 2021.JPEG File)
50
● As per departmental planning, lay report, cut summary, mini marker and
plotter marker is to be generated and given to the laying section.
● For bulk orders 8 way and 4 way markers were used instead of 2 way and 1
way
5.1.2 Process Flow in CAD Department
Fig. 5.3:(Agnihotri, Shubhi.”Process flow of CAD Department” 2021.JPEG File)
5.2 Spreading
After the fabric is issued from the Fabric Store, the fabric is unloaded in the
spreading and cutting room for the purpose of cutting. The fabric is sent for washing
to check the Lot Shrinkage. After the fabric is received from washing, again the
shrinkage check is done. If the shrinkage comes out to be less than or equal to 5%,
then the shrinkage is added in the pattern. But, if the shrinkage comes out to be
more than 5%, then the fabric is again sent for washing for the shrinkage check of
the residual shrinkage. Now, again there can be two possibilities here- if the fabric
shrinkage comes out to be less than 3% then the shrinkage is added to the pattern
itself otherwise the fabric is sent for the wash again.
51
When the Lot shrinkage check is done, then the fabric is spread. Spreading is the
process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table, or
specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process. The actual process
of spreading involves laying out fabric in the desired number of layers. Block cutting
is done for those panels which are to be sent for embroidery and printing. A spread
may be laid up by one person or two, depending on the width and type of fabric,
equipment, and size of spread.
Fig. 5.4: (Baheti, Preeti.”Spreading & Cutting Department” 2021.JPEG File)
Normally there are two to three people involved in the process of spreading. One
person stands on the end of the table and pulls the fabric and releases it for
spreading. The other two people carry the fabric from one end to the other.
For Spreading, the normal relaxation time given was 4 hours, but depending on the
time and emergency of the style, the time was even reduced to 1 hour.
7-8cms = 7-8cms = 2.5-3” 7.5-9cms = r 7.5-9cms = 3-3.5” Single Jersey Jacquard
7-8cms = 2.5-3” 7-8 cms = 2.5-3” 10-12cms = 10-12cms = 4-4.5” Pique Solid
7.5-9cms = 3-3.5” Single Jersey Solid 7.5-9cms = 3-3.5”
Type of Fabric Layer Height
Interlock PIMA 2.5”-3”
Mercerized Single Jersey 2.5”-3”
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Jersey Auto-Stripe 3”-3.5”
Auto Stripe 3”-3.5”
Single Jersey Jacquard 2.5”-3”
Wrapper Mercerized 2.5”-3”
Fleece 4”-4.5”
Flat Back Rib 4”-4.5”
Pique Solid 3”-3.5”
Single Jersey Solid 3”-3.5”

Table 5.1: Layer height based on fabric type
5.3 Cutting
After the marking is done, the CAD marker is spread over the fabric. The CAD
marker has all the information regarding the pattern such as the size of the pattern,
style number, notches, length of the marker, width of the marker, efficiency and
number of patterns in the marker.
Fig 5.5: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Cutting Table” 2021.JPEG File)
The marker is taped on the top of fabric after tearing some spot so it doesn’t move
and it is easy to cut.
In cutting department, the fabric was cut using two methods:

● One was manually through scissors, this was happening for very small orders
of pieces 200-300. Scissors were used for fuse pieces also.
● The other was through a movable straight knife.
53
Fig 5.6: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Kingsew Straight Knife” 2021.JPEG File)
5.3.1 Fusing
It was being done on the pieces of fabric, on top of them the pattern pieces were
placed and then cut.
Fig. 5.7: (Baheti, Preeti. “Fusing Machine” 2021. JPEG File)
5.4 Ticketing & Bundling

The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of
one garment size are brought together. It is very important to take care that pieces
cut from two different bundles of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot
there are bundle to bundle variations in the shade. The sorted pieces are now
ticketed.
54
Ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade matching
precision, size, and sequence identification. The worker secures one end of the
stack and puts on the ticket using a ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The
ticket serves as an important means to track the parts of the garment in the
assembly line from start to end.
Bundling: It is done to prevent mixing and distortion of pieces. A bundle is tied and a
bundle ticket is attached to it, this ticket contains:
● Bundle Number
● Order Number
● Number of Pieces
● Lay Number
● Sizes
● Pattern
● Style
The pieces are sorted out size wise and quantity wise. The details are sorted in a
sorting register to check whether the correct amount has been cut or not.
The bundling label contains the following:
● Serial number of bundles
● Ticket numbers of the garments present in the bundle
● Size number of garment
● Number of pieces in the bundle
● Name of parts contained in the garment
● Number of lots contained in the bundle
Total number of machines in one unit:

● Straight Knives: 02
● Ticketing Machine: 03
● Fusing Machine: 01
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5.5 Process flow of Spreading & Cutting
Department
Fig 5.8: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Process Flow of Spreading & Cutting” 2021.PNG File)
56
5.6 Re-cutting
Re-cutting is the process of cutting a panel from the fabric to replace the defective
panel. Re-cutting is done when the panel or part of a garment is found with some
weaving or dyeing defect which cannot be fixed by any means.
In re-cutting, the panel is brought to the cutting table. The panel has some marked
details such as the fabric lot number, pattern number, shrinkage, name of the panel
and the ticketing number.
At re-cutting, cut bits of the fabric left out after spreading are brought to the table
having the same pattern number and shrinkage as that of the defective panel. The
labour then takes out the hardcopy pattern for the panel, traces it on the cut bit fabric
and then cuts it accordingly. The newly cut panel is sent to the bundling QC area
where it is again inspected and if it passes the test, it is included in the bundle and
then later dispatched for batch production.
5.7 Embroidery
The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for
embroidery or printing as stated in the production packages. They check for any
embroidery/printing and follow up these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels
are sent for embroidery/printing, which are re-cut after receiving back. For intricate
embroidery and printing the department outsources it as these are not available in
the export house. Only basic embroidery can be done inhouse.
57
Chapter Six
6.1 Sewing Department
The factory manager receives a production file whereas the Quality manager
receives a Quality Control file from the production planning department. The
production planning department works hand in hand with the merchandising
department to make a time and action plan to have daily, weekly and monthly targets
to accomplish, so that production for order is on time. The files before coming into
production are collaborated in various pre-production meetings; these have been
analyzed by research and development to make sure that the product is made in
optimal conditions which is also financially beneficial.
Fig 6.1: (Baheti, Preeti.“Sewing Floor (D-129)” 2021.JPEG File)
After the final pre-production meeting on the set standards, the received bundles
from the cutting department are brought to be stitched. The sewing floors of unit
D-129 have 8 sewing lines of which 3-5 are dedicated to production of bags
depending on the orders. The line for a common garment can be set within 1 to 2
days. The first day is utilized in setting up the line; on the second day it tries to give
certain production whereas on the third day in most cases they reach peak
production of around 350-500 pieces per line per day.
58
The production produced is checked hourly by line supervisor and floor supervisors,
while quality is kept in check by quality supervisor at the end of line by calculating
defects per hundred unit (DHU). In the beginning phase of production in-line
checking is also done to perish at the root of its occurrence or it is done if in the end
line the defects at certain areas are coming constantly.
The Industrial Engineering department closely works with production. They provide
merchants with the initial cost of production beside material cost is calculated by the
merchant itself. They give them thread average, CMT cost, etc.
The Operation Breakdown made by them is based on their experience of work, such
as Mr. Devendar, I.E. professional, says that his previous experience and practical
knowledge acquired from Shahi Exports helps him in doing so further the SAM is
verified by the VP of Operations as well. The target is like 15% of the order on the
first day of set-up then 30%, 45% and goes up till 60% for orders of 5,000 pieces;
65% for 7,000 pieces; and maximum upto 70% for orders above 7,000 pieces.
Target at 100% is calculated by working time in minutes multiplied by manpower

divided by SAM. This is impossible to achieve therefore 60% of it is considered. The
operators are majorly daily wage workers having ₹410 to ₹420 per day, this is the
daily salary of operators whereas helpers earn ₹350/day.
Cost per unit= Operator X salary per day + Helper X salary per day / Total output that day
(here shift is 8 hrs indicating 1 day).Beside this monthly salary of LIne Checker, Line
assistant, Assistant supervisor, incharge, factory manager, floor industrial engineer, etc. are
also added up on the daily basis. The cost of cutting is generally considered ₹3/piece.
Fig 6.2: (Baheti, Preeti.”Sewing Department” 2021. JPEG File)
59
6.2 Process flow of Sewing Department
60
Fig. 6.3: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Process flow of Sewing Floor” 2021.PNG File)
If in production any additional machinery is required then they rent them from
contractors for the time basis of the order.
61
Chapter Seven
7.1 Washing
Fig. 7.1:(Baheti,Preeti.”Washing Area” 2021.JPEG File)
The garment washing is done after the sewing process. This area is also utilised by
the sampling department while producing samples for the buyer to give the feel after
washing fabric or garment during the approval process. The washing recipe depends
upon the requirements of the buyer.
The importance of garment washing are:

● Its primary objective is to remove starch present in the fabric while its
manufacturing.
● This is used to improve the bulkiness
● It is also used to soften garments and improve its feel.
● It removes dirt and oil stains on the garment acquired during the
manufacturing process of it.
● It also removes chemicals and impurities used during the printing or
embroidery process.
62
The purpose of washing a fabric is to bring dimensional stability in garments by
eliminating the possibility of shrinkage. While garment washing is also done to have
a faded or colour tinted look.
The common washing types in-house happen are:

1. Flax softener Wash- There are two types of softener cationic and nonionic
which are used first by diluting in hot water and then used in the machine. It
provides a soft feel.
2. Optical Wash- In this type of wash optical brighteners are used which are of
two types: red and blue brighteners. It is utilized to improve the brightness of
the clothes. It is applied on the RFD (ready for dyeing) fabrics.
3. Neutral Wash- In this wash a neutral acid and detergent is used. Mostly acetic
acid (CH3COOH) is suited which is for lowering the pH value or neutralizing
the alkaline solution.
4. Detergent (fatty alcohol polyglycol ether) Wash with fixing agent- The purpose
of it is to counter the grading that can occur in garment if fastening is not
proper. The fixer agents are used to fix dyes on fabric giving it better color and
rubbing fastness.
The other washing process that they outsource to other vendors are:
● Heavy enzyme or Vintage Wash: The term "vintage" refers to an aged
appearance. Garments are laundered in the washing machine with enzymes
to give them an old or worn appearance. The heavy enzyme is used to wash
fleece sweatshirts.
● Cloud wash: Cloud wash creates white areas on the surface of the garment
that resemble clouds in the sky.
● Stonewash: During the washing process, white stone is combined with
enzymes to provide a faded appearance on the garment surface. Fabric
comes into contact with stones when being washed, and the colour fades as a
result of rubbing. Denim products are commonly washed using stonewash.
● Acid wash: Acid wash removes the garment's basic colour by spraying acid on
the designated spots.
In the house there are two tumble dryers and one washing Machine as well as a dry
cleaning machine.
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7.2 Process flow of Washing
Fig. 7.2: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Process Flow of Washing” 2021.PNG File)
64
Chapter Eight
8.1 Finishing Department
Finishing operations include final pressing, trimming, inspecting, labeling, ticketing
and bagging. Pressed garments are tagged and bagged for shipping. The labels and
tickets used depending on the buyer’s needs.
Objective:
● Improve the appearance of the garment
● Improve the drape by pressing
● Improve the durability of the garments
● Packing for dispatch
8.2 Process Flow of Finishing Department
65
Fig. 8.1: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Process Flow of Finishing Department” 2021.PNG File)
● Trimming of Threads:
Trimming removes thread ends and loose threads and contributes to a neat
appearance in the final garment. Trimming is another indication of quality and
attention to detail in the production process. They also take care of the thread
66
which clots during the stitching process. This is done with the help of a
trimmer.
● Removal of Stickers:
This process removes the unwanted stickers stuck on the garments. The
operator can use a rod wrapped by cello tape to remove the threads or can do
it manually by hand.
● Spotting:
This is done to remove the stains from the garments. The stains are generally
pen, pencil or chalk marks, oil spots etc. the operator uses acetone or vinyl for
removing spots. They have jet spray also attached to their table. They also
have a dry air pipe which dries the wet spots.
Fig. 8.2: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Spot Removal” 2021.JPEG File)
67
Fig. 8.3:(Baheti, Preeti.”Material Safety Data Sheet” 2021.JPEG File)
● Pressing:
Pressing is the most prevalent molding process used in the apparel industries.
Pressing is any molding process which varies the fabric’s geometric structure
or characteristics by applying mechanical pressure (solid or air) to the fabric.
Heat or moisture are used in mechanical pressing processes either to dime

the processing time or to improve the molding stability and characteristics, but
the mechanical pressure is the basic ingredient in the molding process.
Iron Pressing: It is the molding process in which pressure is applied with the
flat contact surface of a flat iron.
Pressing Table: The pressing table is attached with steam which provides
steam to the press and a vacuum table which helps in easy laying of the
garment.
68
Fig 8.4: (Baheti, Preeti.”Pressing Area” 2021.JPEG File)
● Measurement:
The garments are now checked for the required measurements.
Fig 8.5: (Baheti, Preeti.“Measurement Audit Report” 2021.JPEG File)
● Final Pressing:
Final Pressing adds the final shape to seams and garments. It softens fibres
and sets the desired shape.
● Tagging:
Ticketing and tagging prepare the garment for retail presentation. In this hang
tag are attached. It includes:
❖ UPC codes
❖ Style number
❖ Price
69
❖ Size
❖ Color
● Folding:
The garments are either folded or hung on hangers according to the buyer’s
requirements. This process is completely manual.
● Packing:
Garments are folded and packaged or placed on hangers and covered with
plastic bags. The carton packing is done countrywise depending on where the
shipment is going to be delivered, at times the goods are of mixed colour and
sizes depending on the order specification.
Fig. 8.6:(Baheti, Preeti.”Packaging Area” 2021.JPEG File)
● Metal Detectors:
The 100% check happens before carton packing and after that final inspection
is done by the buyer or its nominated representative.
70
Fig. 8.7: (Baheti, Preeti.”Easement Needle Detector” 2021.JPEG File)
71
Chapter Nine
9.1 Human Resource Department

Sai Creation motto: "Together we can make it happen: We believe in teamwork, We
can achieve the highest goal if we are working in a team.”
Fig. 9.1: (Baheti, Preeti:”Policies” 2021.JPEG File)
9.1.1 Coverage and Guidelines

● The policy manual serves as a set of guidelines pertaining to key HR issues &
is applicable to all business of Sai Creations and cover various categories in
the company.
● It covers the basic philosophy, policy, and perspective.
● The policies as spelt out are reflective of the current market practices.
● They could be changes / Modifications /addition / Deletions to these policies
as and when required by management at its sole discretions.
● It is the responsibility of HR to ensure adherence to the policy laid down.
9.1.2 Administrations
This policy should be maintained by HR. From time-to-time additional information
may be added, or instruction updated, and unit HR is responsible for ensuring that
any changes / Modification /deletion are properly updated and have the prior
approval of management.
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9.1.3 Confidentiality
This policy manual and all forms and strictly confidential are not to be shown to
non-employees outside the company. Sharing of this information with an outside
individual is in violation of the confidentiality agreement.
9.1.4 HR Mission
To facilitate an environment where each member of the organisation is able to
contribute their best.
9.2 HR Policy
9.2.1 Attendance
Objective-
To clearly define the terms and conditions for all the employees for coming and
going from the place of work so as to maintain proper discipline in the organisation.
Scope-
All the employees of the organisation are covered under this.
Procedure-
● All employees are required to mark their daily attendance by punching their
card / Thumb impression on a biometric machine while entering and leaving
the office /Plant premises. Without Punching no attendance will be
recognised.
● All employees are required to fill in the outdoor duty slip before leaving from
the office plant for office work during office hours and submit the approved slip
from the concerned HOD / immediate superior, to the location HR department
for making necessary entries in attendance record.
● The company discourages employees from coming late to Office / Factory.
● For extreme circumstances it provides a grace period of 15 minutes.
9.2.2 Public Holidays

Objective-
To provide the employee with the national holidays governed by the law Of the state
and also the festival holiday to celebrate and enjoy the festival.
Scope-
All the employees of the organisation are covered under this.
Procedure-
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● The Company provides a maximum 10 Leaves to its employees based at
organisation.
● The Management has the discretion to open the unit on any holidays except
National holidays depending upon the exigencies of the work.
Kinds of Leave-
1. Earned Leave (EL):
● EL is given with the purpose of providing the employees with an annual
Vacation from work.
● All employees are entitled for 14 days EL in-calendar years.
● No, El Can be availed by employees during the notice period while under
resignation.
2. Casual leave (CL):

● An employee is entitled for 7 days CL per year and the same will be credited
on the first of January of every year.
● A maximum of 3 days CL may be taken at a stretch.
● CL can neither be accumulated not encashed and gets automatically elapsed
at the end of the calendar year.
3.Sick Leave (SL):

● The main objection of SL is to provide paid leave to the employees for illness.
● Employees, who are not covered under ESIC, are eligible for sick leave.
● An employee is entitled for 7 days CL per year and the same will be credited
on the first January of every year.
● El can be combined with SL to cover the period of illness.
4. Leave without pay

● If no kind of leave is present in the leave account of the employee, then in
case of emergency, he/she can be granted leave without pay at the sole
discretion of the management.
Procedure-
● For taking any leave, an employee is required to submit the leave application
giving all the details regarding duration, type of leaves, etc.
● Leaves record in respect of the unit shall be maintained by the Unit HR
Department. However, in respect of branches, the concerned branch office
shall be responsible for maintaining the leave record.
9.2.3 Recruitment Policy

Objective-
To meet Manpower requirement due to expansion of activities of the organisation or
separations of personal
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9.2.4 Joining Formalities and Induction
Objective-
To establish a company wide orientation programme to familiarise the new employee
with the organisation, its business, working culture, rules, policies and practices
directly affect him, to build confidence so that he is able to give his best to the
organisation.
Policy-
● The location HR Department will be responsible for providing an orientation to
the new employee starting from the next day of joining of the new employee.
● The HR Department is responsible for designing the induction program of
every new employee joining the company.
● The HR Department will ensure completion of all joining formalities for the
new employees.
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Chapter Ten
10.1 Project 1
Implementation Of 5S
Abstract
An industry whether garment, automobile or food processing, requires certain set
protocols and methods to function properly, efficiently and as a whole. In absence of
an organised and well settled work-environment, the production may face several
difficulties and unnecessary delays which may lead to inconsistency. The 5S system
helps keep the departments and floors organised which will always help in finding
the required materials on time and hence will help increase the efficiency.
The objective of the project is to provide an organised and tidy environment across
the company. 5S makes it easy to locate items and places on the floor which
ultimately increases the efficiency.
Introduction
5S is a system for organizing spaces so work can be performed efficiently,
effectively, and safely. This system focuses on putting everything where it belongs
and keeping the workplace clean, which makes it easier for people to do their jobs
without wasting time or risking injury.
The term 5S comes from five Japanese words:
Japanese Words English Translation
1. Seiri Sort
2. Seiton Set in Order
3. Seiso Shine
4. Seiketsu Standardize
5. Shitsuke Sustain
We aimed to introduce 5S in the two departments with the most tedious tasks
making the workers and management understand its benefits. The implementation
of 5S on sewing and finishing floors helped to increase the efficiency and speed.
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Objective
On sewing and finishing floors, the purpose of 5S implementation is to bring items
closer to operations and workers, organise and label them, and eliminate wasted
time and materials. The 5S philosophy is based on the principle of “a place for
everything and everything in its place,” and it aids in the elimination of wasted time,
space, and inventory. The objective of the project is to provide an organised and tidy
environment across the company. 5S makes it easy to locate items and places on
the floor which ultimately increases the efficiency.
Problem definition and Methodology

In a manufacturing industry, the lead time and inventory management plays an
extremely crucial role when it comes to costing, order confirmations, reputation of the
company and profits. In sai creations, the problems that occurred interfered in the
lead time of an order like wasted or rejected materials mixing with the current order
products, workers taking leaves because of illnesses caused by unhygienic
environment, rejection of garments by the buyer due to mix match of the product
parts, not being able to locate parts of garments or garment bundles and wastage of
space.
The general methodology followed is:

1. Observation and clicking pictures of the problems identified.
2. Meeting with the VP operations Mr. Akash Anand and factory managers to
address the issues and proposing this idea with the industry mentor Mr. Gowri
Shanker.
3. Training the champions (The head of sewing floor and finishing floor)
regarding 5S and its benefits.
4. Implementation of 5S step by step with the help of the HR Department.
5. Sustaining the practice through getting A2 5s charts printed and posted in
both the departments where it is easy to read and understand.
6. Weekly reporting of the progress with Mr. Akash Anand.
5s Implementation On:
Sewing Floor
Sewing is an important department in the garment industry. All the parts of a garment
are joined here by making stitches with the help of needle and thread.
If all the items/materials are placed in their designated positions, then getting them
when required will get easier.
There are workers, helpers, checkers, line masters, floor supervisors and production
managers in the sewing department.
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Main responsibilities of a worker:
● Sew the panels together without making any error.
Main responsibilities of a Helper:

● Segregate and the panels to ease the workload on helper
● Carry the bundles across the floor.
● Provide workers with the trims and accessories.
● Mid-line pressing when required
Main responsibilities of a Checker:

● Check the critical points
● Check for any kind of defect
Main responsibilities of a Line Master:

● To look after the line requirements
● To check if everything is running smoothly in the line
Main responsibilities of a Floor Supervisor:

● To look after the floor requirements
● To check for the bottle neck formation and resolve the issues
Main responsibilities of a Production Manager:

● To check if the floor is able to reach the hourly target, if not then find the
reason and resolve it.
Before starting the product construction, the most efficient and cheap stitches are
researched and finalized which helps the organization maximize profit, produce good
quality products and minimize the efforts.
Activities Involved:
1. Sourcing cut panels from cutting floor
2. Sourcing trims and accessories from the trim store
Important production points:

1. Ratio between workers and machinery
2. Guides available for most machines,
3. Bundles to be moved on the centre table in boxes,
4. Needle damage reports to be generated
5. Assembly divided in 2 lines; end line checkpoint must maintain a record sheet
which shows early targeted input, actual input, target output and actual output.
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5S
1. Seiri (Sort):
Problem Identified Actions taken Results
Unnecessary items Sorted them out on the More cleaner floors and
lying on the floor and basis of their space created for items
kept on tables requirement frequency needed
Table 10.1 Sort- Sewing floor
2. Seiton (Set in order):
Trims and accessories Placed them on the Easy to locate trims

lying on the floor racks and assigned it and accessories
randomly for trims and reducing searching time
accessories
Table 10.2 Set in order- Sewing floor
Fig. 10.1: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Trims and accessories” 2021.JPEG File)
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Cut panels were lying Got segments More cleaner floors and
at random places on constructed under the space created for items
the floor tables behind each line needed
Fig. 10.2: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Cut panels” 2021.JPEG File)
No designated place to Got 3 boxes placed More cleaner floors and

keep rejected, accepted under the in-line space created for items
and on-hold products checking table with needed and search
time reduced
labels “Pass”, “Hold”
and “Rejected”.
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Fig. 10.3: (Baheti, Preeti.“Accepting and rejecting boxes” 2021.JPEG File)
No designated place for Got racks placed on More cleaner floors and
the workers to keep each floor for the space created for items
their belongings so they workers to keep their needed and search
time reduced
used to keep them near belongings
their legs which might
become a reason for
some kind of accident
in future and occupying
space
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Fig. 10.4: (Baheti, Preeti.“Racks” 2021.JPEG File)
3. Seisu (Shine):
The floors and Removed the unwanted More cleaner floors and
pathways were always pieces and kept the space created for
dirty, with cut pieces needed ones on the walking and in case of
emergency
and threads lying all tables and racks
over the floor.
Table 10.6 Shine- Sewing floor
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Fig. 10.5: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Dirty pathways” 2021.JPEG File)
Fig. 10.6: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Clean pathways” 2021.JPEG File)
83
4. Seiketsu (Standardize):
Unable to differentiate We asked the Helps in identification

between worker, helper organization and got and distinguish
and checker color-coded jackets for between workers and
helpers, checker
helper and checker
Table 10.7 Standardize- Sewing floor
Fig. 10.7: (Baheti, Preeti.“Color coded jacket” 2021.JPEG File)
The floors were always The line masters and Clean and tidy floors
overloaded with cut floor supervisors were and easy to locate
panels as they were instructed to source cut pieces for sewing
sourced from the panels from cutting
cutting floor more than department two times a
required day, i.e. (I) In the
evening for the next
days’ work of first-half
and (II) Half-an-hour
before the lunch break;
no more than required
for each half in-order to
avoid overload
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Fig. 10.8: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Cut panels organization” 2021.JPEG File)
Heaps of sewed Got the floor Clean spaces created

products were lying at a supervisors instructed and there is no sudden
corner on the floor to get the sewed load on finishing
department to finish
(result of not delivering products supplied to the
garments or for keeping
the products to the finishing floor after them acquiring
finishing floor for 2 or every 4 hour unnecessary space
more days)
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Fig. 10.9: (Baheti, Preeti.“Unwanted heaps lying in the corner” 2021.JPEG File)
86
The workers were informed to clean their workplace 3 times a day (In the morning
before they start working; before lunch and before departure) and make that a habit.
The sweeper was assigned the duty to clean the floor after every 2 hours
5. Shitsuke (Sustain):
Got some 5S charts printed and pasted in all departments where 5S was
implemented. The spots are clearly visible to everyone who is facing that
direction.
Fig. 10.10: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“5S chart - sewing floor” 2021.JPEG File)
87
Finishing Floor
One of the most significant departments in the garment industry is the finishing
department. The finishing department has a significant impact on the final
transportation of the products. This department is also responsible for the target
product quality level. As a result, the finishing department's smooth and efficient
functioning is critical.
The Finishing Department's various activities can be summarized as follows:

● Receives garments from production floor & Washing plant.
● Thread trimming and stain removal
● Pressing
● Taking the measurement.
● Accessories attached
● Quality checking.
● Storing in the Finished Goods Store.
● Inspection by the Audit Team.
● Final shipment.
5S
1. Seiri (Sort):
Unnecessary items Sorted them out on the More cleaner floors and
lying on the floor and basis of their space created for items
kept on and under the requirement frequency needed
tables
Table 10.10 Sort- Finishing floor
2. Seiton (Set in order):
Cluttered pathways and ● We instructed More cleaner floors and

no space for walking the workers to space created for items
and Sacks of garments put the items on needed and searching
to be finished lying on their designated time reduced.
the floor hence places to
increasing searching facilitate easy
time and obstruction in return and
the walk pathways retrieval and
minimize time
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and effort and
made walk paths
clear using
tapes.
● We instructed
the workers to
place the fabric
under the table
with labelling of
the order
number, style
number, colour
and size.
Table 10.11 Set in order- Finishing floor
Fig. 10.11: (Baheti, Preeti.“Walking pathways” 2021.JPEG File)
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Rejected and accepted We instructed workers Hence reducing time to

garments were not and got sorted them out find and distinguish
labeled creating a and trained workers to between accepted or
label the green boxes rejected garments
confusion for the
as rejected garments
workers boxes and we assigned
blue colored boxes for
the accepted garments
Fig. 10.12: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Accepting and rejecting boxes” 2021.JPEG File)
Personal belongings of We requested the HR Creating more space

workers like water department to place a for necessary items
bottles, bags, purses rack especially for
keeping these personal
and helmets were lying
belongings
under the checking
tables and thus were
acquiring the spaces
designated for keeping
the sacks and rejected
or accepted garments
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Fig. 10.13: (Baheti, Preeti.“Personal belongings” 2021.JPEG File)
Rejected garments We removed these Creating more space

were piled up near the garments and told them for emergencies
fire extinguisher making to place these in the
it difficult to deal with rejection room and
the fire situation if any send it back for
mishap happens correction
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Fig. 10.14: (Baheti, Preeti.“Rejected garments” 2021.JPEG File)
3. Seiso (Shine):
Cleanliness is a crucial part of the working conditions in the finishing floor
where trimming of threads happens and various other plastics are used for
packaging and other processes. These can project a disturbance in the
working procedures.
Extra trimmed threads, ● We instructed Creating and

paper slips of tags and the workers to maintaining more clean
plastics lying on the put the extra and hygienic working
environment
floor. plastic bags in
which the bits of
trimmed threads
and paper bits
can be stored
and then
ultimately
disposed of into
a proper dustbin.
This will prevent
the bits from
falling on the
ground and
creating clutter.
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● And we made
sure proper
cleaning is done
in the morning
before starting
the work, in the
lunch break and
in the evening
after the workers
leave.
Table 10.15 Shine- Finishing floor
Fig. 10.15: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Waste lying on the floor” 2021.JPEG File)
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Fig. 10.16: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Usage of polybags to collect waste” 2021.JPEG File)
4. Seiketsu (Standardise):
Unable to differentiate We asked the Helps in identification

between worker, helper organization and got and distinguish
and checker color-coded jackets for between workers and
helpers, checker
helper and checker
Table 10.16 Standardize- Finishing floor
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Fig. 10.17: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“Standardization” 2021.JPEG File)
5. Shitsuke (Sustain):
Got the HR Department to print 5S charts and pasted in all departments
where 5S was implemented and gave workers proper training. The spots are
clearly visible to everyone who is facing that direction.
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Fig. 10.18: (Agnihotri, Shubhi.“5S chart - finishing floor” 2021.JPEG File)
Outcome
As we visualised, the speed and efficiency increased and thus the lead time was reduced
and delivery happened in time and more space was created for the inventory and no extra
space was needed to keep products thus reducing inventory cost and eliminating wastage.
Conclusion
Apparel production demands efficient and cheap production to make more profit out
of every order. And, 5S proves to be the foundation for any organization that wants
their efficiency to increase.
It helps deliver the following:

● Consistency: The more organized the workplace is, the more consistency can
be maintained in between workers.
● Efficiency and speed: The more clean and organized the floor is, the easier it
is to find materials when needed leading to better efficiency
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● The procedures will not guarantee excellent performance nor good results.
However, what 5S will do is ensure that you have an organized, tidy and
well-settled environment, and a motivating company culture.
Learning outcome
We learned a bunch of new skills including a very important one called people
management and realised about the issues that arise when you apply a tool in a
practical scenario. Since it was our first industry meeting, we learned how to
convince industry people for our ideas and how to put forward our views and
highlight issues in a professional manner.
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10.2 Project 2
Standard Operating System For Sai Creations
Abstract
An industry whether garment, automobile or food processing, requires certain set
protocols and methods to function properly, efficiently and as a whole. In the
absence of a standardized work method; the production may face several halts and
unnecessary delays which lead to inconsistency. Standard Operating Procedures
which are kept up to date, help negate the chaos as they not only play a pivotal role
in helping manage the work but also provide a learning curve for new employees.
Through a standard routine, employees enjoy more predictability in their work
environment and can sharpen their skills on each task to raise their overall
performance.
Introduction
Specific to operation, an SOP describes the activities necessary to complete tasks in
accordance with industry regulations, provincial laws or even just one’s own
standards for running business.
SOPs are procedures, policies and standards one needs in the operations,
marketing and administration disciplines within the business.
SOP creates several advantages, namely:

1. Improving efficiencies thus, profitability
2. Consistency and reliability in production and service
3. First line defense in any inspection
4. Protecting employers in areas of potential liability and personnel matters,
5. Added value to business
A conventional SOP follows one of the following methods:

1. Checklists
2. Step by Step lists
3. Hierarchical Lists
4. Process Flow Chart
Objective
The objective of the project is to provide needed consistency across the company,
ensuring that the tasks which keep the organization running effectively are done the
way they should be. SOPs make it easy to find out what policies and procedures are
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in place to handle a repetitive business scenario or tasks and standardizes many
crucial processes.
Problem definition and methodology

Any industry or business that has quality standards must have an SOP. In the
absence of SOPs the problems observed were long halts due to unnecessary delays
and thus leading to inconsistency.
The general methodology followed is:
1. Observation in the different departments process flow and writing them down
2. Analysis of the issues and charting a Standard Operating Procedure to
prevent the issues from arising again.
3. Discussing them with the Operations Manager and making people understand
its benefits.
Department-wise Standard Operating Procedures:
1.Merchandising Department
The mediating department between marketing and production is called the
merchandising department. Merchandiser is the person whose responsibility is to
execute the orders perfectly as per the costing and pricing. So, it is a very valuable
department.
Following are the main responsibilities of merchandisers:

● Internal & external communication,
● Sampling,
● Lab dips,
● Accessories & trims,
● Preparing internal order sheets,
● Preparing purchase orders,
● Advising and assisting production,
● Advising quality department about quality level,
● Mediating production and quality departments,
● Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
● Helping documentation department,
● Taking responsibility for inspections and
● Following shipment.
Before starting the costing for a style, merchandiser must consider the following:
1. Fabric consumption
2. Margin
3. Labour Expenses
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4. Exchange Rate
5. Thread Consumption
6. Trims and accessories cost
7. Finishing
8. Packaging
Activities involved:
1. Receive detailed information from buyers like style details, fabric type, quality
and fiber content, trim requirements and quality, color details and various
other details like washing, printing, embroideries etc.
2. Make prototypes, coordinate with the R & D team, find fabric costing and
initial costing, send samples with price and various other job works at
sampling stage etc.
3. Receive the purchase order and labour expenses, amendments if any,
confirm price, category, delivery schedule and the required lead time etc.
4. Get the approval for samples and trims, prepare the time and action calendar,
prepare the fabric and trim indent.
5. Coordinate with R&D and I.E., for further detailed technical reports.
6. Coordinate with PPC for production planning, send order status to the buying
office at every stage.
7. Call for the production meeting, prepare the production file and take care of
the budget at each stage.
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Fig 10.19.(Baheti, Preeti. “SOP of Merchandising Department” 2021)
101
2. Fabric Store
Fabric Stores in the garment industry serve as the raw material storage facility. In
garment production, an adequate amount of fabric must be acquired and stored for
carrying out orders in time and maintaining continuity in manufacturing.
Fabric racks are colour coded:

● Green rack: OK fabric, ready for cutting.
● Yellow rack: Greige Fabric
● Red rack: Reject fabric.
Quality Check standard: 4 Point Defect System

Basic grading rules state that a maximum of four penalty points can be assessed for
any single defect and that no linear meter can be assigned more than four points
regardless of the number of defects within that piece.
Sample Tests before placing bulk fabric order:

● Shrinkage Test
● Shade Test
● Colours Rubbing Test
● Perspiration Test
● Colours Fastness Test
102
Fig 10.20.(Baheti, Preeti. “SOP of Fabric Store” 2021)
103
3. Cutting Department
Spreading is the process of smooth layering of fabrics in superimposed layers of
specified length. Spreading is done with the type of fabric, print of fabric and marker
issued by the CAD department.
Points to be considered during spreading process:

● Ply alignment- Ply alignment can be straight edge or centre edge.
● Ply Tension- Tight spread and slack spread should be avoided during the
spreading process.
● Grain Alignment- must be considered
● Static charge
● Surface direction- the pile direction or the design direction of the fabric which
is to be spread.
Cutting is the process of separating out different garment parts from the lay of fabric
with the help of cutting templates and devices.
Objective:
● To maintain the quality of cut parts,
● To cut the fabric is required shape and quality
● Availability of cut parts on time.
Cutting sub departments:

1. Layering and spreading
2. Cutting
3. Bundling and Ticketing
4. Fusing
Parameters affecting the fusing process:

1. Pressure: Applied pressure should be adequate so that uniform heat is
supplied to the adhesive.
2. Temperature: Should be according to the type of resin used in fusing.
3. Time: Fusing duration must be long enough for the melting and penetration of
resin among the fibres of fabric can take place.
● The process of spreading and cutting is done manually.

● Adequate weight must be applied while spreading the fabric.
● Cutting Machine used: Straight Knife
● Metal hand gloves must be worn before using the cutting machine.
● Do not leave Cutting machines plugged in after work.
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Fig. 10.21.(Agnihotri, Shubhi. “SOP of Cutting Department” 2021)
4. Sewing Department
Sewing is an important department in the garment industry. All the parts of a garment
are joined here by making stitches with the help of needle and thread. Where, the
sewing process flow chart helps to make a complete garment easily. By maintaining
the sewing process flow chart, an order can be completed in time.
Important production points:

1. Ratio between workers and machinery
2. Guides available for most machines,
3. Bundles to be moved on the centre table in boxes,
4. Needle damage reports to be generated
5. Assembly divided in 2 lines; end line checkpoint must maintain a record sheet
which shows early targeted input, actual input, target output and actual output.
105
Fig. 10.22.(Baheti, Preeti. “SOP of Sewing Department” 2021)
106
5. Finishing Department
After assembly, the garments now come for finishing- a key stage of the garment
production process. It is done to prepare the final garment according to the quality
standards of the buyer before packing it for shipment.
The Finishing department consists of spotting, initial checking, thread cutting,

pressing, final checking, tacking folding and packaging. Altering machines situated in
the finishing room itself.
Packing Norms:
1. All garments to be packed in individual poly bags,
2. Order must be completed (packed, ready for shipment) prior to loading.
3. Order must be inspected and audited by the factory.
4. Order must be of first quality; no repaired or ungraded garments should be in
licensed shipment.
5. Order must be shipped 100% complete otherwise notified.
6. After fulfilling the above standards, only then the packed goods are ready to
be passed through.
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Fig. 10.23.(Agnihotri, Shubhi.“SOP of the Finishing Department” 2021).
108
Outcome
The result of these operating procedures is not having unnecessary delays and thus
reducing the lead time and other costs. Following a standard routine helped the departments
to maintain consistency.
Conclusion
Apparel production demands organized and timely output. SOP proves to be an
extremely useful business tool as it communicates the correct way of carrying out an
activity within the organization.
It helps deliver the following:

● Consistency – The number one reason for procedures is consistency in the
way an individual carries out a particular task or activity. The more consistent
a process is from person to person, the less chance there will be quality
problems.
● Reduction of errors – A written procedure details a set of instructions for
performing a task. As long as each individual within your team performs the
task as it is written, there's a greater chance of reducing errors.
● Communication – SOPs are needed in the organization for the benefit of
communication. With improvements made to processes, the operating
procedures are updated, and each update requires new training. Updating
SOPs provides a method to communicate the process changes to employees.
● Procedures are not a be-all, end-all solution – they will not guarantee
excellent performance nor good results. However, what SOPs will do is
ensure that you have a structured quality system and processes in place,
qualified employees, and a motivating company culture.
Learning outcome
We all know the benefits of following a routine but discovering its benefits in a
manufacturing environment was new for us. It made us realise why and how routines
and standard operating procedures are helpful to a corporation practically. We
learned the processes of the different departments in detail.
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10.3 Project 3
Market Research
Abstract
Any business, be it garment, accessory, food or any other field, always needs a
proper research and careful analysis before taking a step towards it. A detailed
market research can help decide the products/services that can expand in the
market and gain profit.
Objective
The project is to get some handy but detailed information for the owner of Sai
Creations to rebuild and expand their brand that failed earlier due to poor market
research and planning.
Problem definition and Methodology

Before a brand is built and is planned to be launched in the market, there is a lot of
research that goes into it. The problem with wittybae was poor market research and
not knowing your customer base. We helped them through the following
methodology:
1. Built a lean canvas to analyse the primary issues.
2. Had a meeting with the marketing head Mr. Rahul Anand and discussed the
lean canvas.
3. Did a detailed research and analysis in knowing our Indian and Dubai markets
and the customer base.
4. Compiled our research in a presentation and discussed with Mr. Rahul Anand.
Introduction
Market research is a detailed study of every event and product that is popular in the
market, the business rivals, threats, etc. It helps to understand what the
customer/consumer wants, needs, desires for.
Wittybae (for women) was a brand founded by Mr. Rahul Anand and Mr. Akash
Anand, the Directors of Sai Creations. The brand was doing well for some period of
time but then it collapsed. The demand for their products decreased while their
inventory was still not empty. They had to sell all the left-over product on loss and
then they shut the brand in 2017. This was all the result of poor market research and
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poor strategy. Now, they want to restart their brand Wittybae and 2 other brands
dedicated purely for kids and men.
1. Blossom
● Blossom is the tentative name given to the brand for kids. Their target
markets are Indian and Dubai markets.
● This brand has been planned to launch in the 1st phase as it has the least
competition.
● We searched for some potential e-commerce sites that they could partner
with, both in India and Dubai.
Women’s wear:
For women’s wear their target markets are Indian and Dubai markets. We browsed
through various e-commerce platforms both available in India and Dubai. We also
researched about the women’s wear that is majorly worn in Dubai and got to know
about a lot of different kinds of apparel items worn in such Gulf Countries. They
target the women from age 16-25.
2. Wittybae
● Wittybae is the confirmed name for womens’ wear brand. Their target markets
are Indian and Dubai Markets.
● This brand has been planned to re-launch in the 2nd phase as this is the
category with the most traffic.
● We made a lean canvas for the same.
We searched for some potential e-commerce sites that they could partner with, both
in India and Dubai.
Outcome
The result of this research resulted Mr. Anand and all of us realised the mistakes that
were made earlier and we helped him with the detailed analysis about this brand's
competitors also. This made his work to start the brand again easier and more clear.
Conclusion
Market research is the base to a business, and this cannot be done wrong or the
consequences can be very harsh. One wrong information can ruin the complete
research and also waste all the efforts and investments made for the business.
This does not guarantee hundred percent profit but if done right then it makes sure
that business does not fail and instead rises with at least baby steps.
111
Learning outcome
As our interdisciplinary minor we have been studying marketing but applying it
practically gave us a lot of confidence and we learned about different customer
bases and what factors affect the buying decision of the customers. We also learned
a new tool called lean canvas that helps you identify problems and jot down solutions
as well. This tool is not only smart but it makes the picture more clearer and makes
you visualise things a lot better.
112
Bibliography
ASQ Quality Press. (n.d.). What are the five S'S of Lean.
https://asq.org/quality-resources/lean/five-s-tutorial
Oragui, D. (2019, November 20). How to Write Effective Standard Operating Procedures.
https://helpjuice.com/blog/standard-operating-procedure
Ordnur. (2019, March). Merchandising Duties and Responsibilities in Garments Factory.
https://ordnur.com/apparel/merchandising-duties-and-responsibilities-in-garments-fac
tory/
Tallyfy. (2020, April). How to Write a Standard Operating Procedure.
https://tallyfy.com/write-standard-operating-procedure-sop/
Textile Academy. (2019, May 6). Role of Merchandiser with Different Departments.
https://www.onlinetextileacademy.com/Role-merchandiser-departments-garment-indu
stry/
113

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APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT

Submitted in partial fulfillment of requirement for the award of degree of

Under the guidance of

Department of Fashion Technology

S. No. Name Page No.

1 Table 1.1: Company Profile 15

2 Table 4.1: 4-Point System Defect Point Table 44

3 Table 4.2: Fabric Defects 44

4 Table 4.3: pH Values for different category 48

5 Table 5.1: Layer height based on fabric type 53

6 Table 10.1 Sort- Sewing floor 79

7 Table 10.2 Set in order- Sewing floor 79

8 Table 10.3 Set in order- Sewing floor 80

9 Table 10.4 Set in order- Sewing floor 80

10 Table 10.5 Set in order- Sewing floor 81

11 Table 10.6 Shine- Sewing floor 82

12 Table 10.7 Standardize- Sewing floor 84

13 Table 10.8 Standardize- Sewing floor 84

14 Table 10.9 Standardize- Sewing floor 85

15 Table 10.10 Sort- Finishing floor 88

16 Table 10.11 Set in order- Finishing floor 89

17 Table 10.12 Set in order- Finishing floor 90

18 Table 10.13 Set in order- Finishing floor 90

19 Table 10.14 Set in order- Finishing floor 91

20 Table 10.15 Shine- Finishing floor 93

21 Table 10.16 Standardize- Finishing floor 94

S. No. Name Page No.

1 Fig. 1.1: Sai Creation 13

2 Fig 1.2: Values 16

3 Fig 1.3: Women’s Wear 18

4 Fig 1.4: Kid’s Wear 19

5 Fig 1.5: Bags 20

6 Fig 1.6: Home Concept 20

7 Fig 1.7: Clients 21

8 Fig 1.8: Company Hierarchy 22

9 Fig 1.9: Process flow of Organization 23

10 Fig 2.1: Design Section 24

11 Fig 2.2: Merchandising Department 26

12 Fig 2.3: Process flow of Merchandising Department 30

13 Fig 3.1: Sampling Department 31

14 Fig 3.2: Flow chart of sampling process 33

15 Fig 3.3: Design to Pattern 34

16 Fig 3.4: Cutting in Sampling Department 34

17 Fig 4.1: Quality Stickers for Inspection 36

18 Fig 4.2: Fabric Store 37

19 Fig 4.3: Process flow of Fabric Store 39

20 Fig 4.4: Trim Store 40

21 Fig 4.5: Process flow of Trim Store 42

22 Fig 4.6: Fabric Inspection Machine 43

23 Fig 4.7: Fabric Inspection Table 45

24 Fig 4.8: Internal Lab 46

25 Fig 4.9: Chemist Sheet 47

26 Fig 5.1: CAD Department 49

28 Fig 5.3: Process flow of CAD Department 51

29 Fig 5.4: Spreading & Cutting Department 52

30 Fig 5.5: Cutting Table 53

31 Fig 5.6: Kingsew Straight Knife 54

32 Fig 5.7: Fusing Machine 54

33 Fig 5.8: Process flow of Spreading & Cutting Department 56

34 Fig 6.1: Sewing Floor (D-129) 58

35 Fig 6.2: Sewing Department 59

36 Fig 6.3: Process flow of Sewing Department 60-61

37 Fig 7.1: Washing Area 62

38 Fig 7.2: Process Flow of Washing 64