GOVERNMENT INSTITUTE OF

TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
BOARD OF TECHNICAL EDUCATION
K R CIRCLE, BANGALORE- 560001

IN-PLANT TRAINING REPORT

(2019-2020)

UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF

Smt. USHA S MTech(textiles), MIE

SELECTION GRADE LECTURER
GOVERNMENT INSTITUTE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

Training group:
 PRASHANTH K (101TX17024)
 PRIYANKA K (101TX17027)
 RATHAN M (101TX17029)
 SHANTHARAJU G S (101TX17034)
 SHASHI KUMAR K R (101TX17036)
 .
 .
 .
 .
 ACKNOWLEDGE

Internship opportunity that I had with Gokaldas exports ltd, Research & Development Unit.
Was a great platform for learning and professional development. Therefore, I consider
myself as a very lucky student as I provided with an opportunity to be a part of it.

I would like to thanks our Smt. B. G Padmini – Principle, G.I.T.T to their kind support to grant
me the permission to carry out my training.

Bearing in mind previous I am using this opportunity to express my special thanks to Mr.
Beharam Jamshed Irani, Managing Director of Gokaldas exports R&D unit. Who in spite of
being extraordinarily busy his duties, took time to hear, guide and allowed me to carry out
my training at their esteemed organization.

I express my deepest thanks to Mr. Ashok sir & Mr. Patel sir – Managing Department for
taking part in useful decision and giving guidance and arranged all facilities to Make it easier.

I wish to thank my internal guide, Smt. S USHA – HOD, G.I.T.T for his extensive help in
reviewing for his timely advice and constant encouragement throughout this training.

Finally, I express my thanks to the Staff of Gokaldas exports ltd, R&D unit, My Parents,
family members & friends who have supported me throughout this venture.

I perceive this opportunity as a big milestone in my career development. I will strive to use
gained skills and knowledge in the best possible way, and I will continue to work on their
improvement, in order to attain desired career objectives. Hope to continue cooperation
with all of you in the future.
 ABOUT GOKALDAS EXORTS Ltd.
The M/S Gokaldas Exports Group, was set up 25 years ago by the late Jhamandas H.
Hinduja in Bangalore and has grown over the years to emerge as India’s leading apparel
manufacturer exporters. We have consistently received awards for our export performance
from various industry organization right from 1980-81 and were recently awarded “Highest
Exporter Award” from Confederation of Indian Apparel Exporters (CIAE) in 2004. We were also
awarded “Highest Export Award for Non-Quota Market” from Confederation of Indian Apparel
Exporters (CIAE) for our export performance in 2004.We design, manufacture and sell a wide
range of garments for men, women & children, catering to the needs of several leading
international fashion brands & retailers. Over the years, we have developed expertise in
manufacturing Outerwear - coats, suits, jackets, parkas, windcheaters, ski wear; Active wear –
warm-ups, surf wear, swim wear; Bottoms - trousers, shorts; Casual Wear– Shirts, ladies’
blouses and dresses for top end customers in the international market. Several international
buyers outsource their designing & manufacturing requirements to us. These buyers include
apparel brands like Nike, GAP, Old Navy, Banana Republic, Tommy Hilfiger, Abercrombie & Fitch,
Hollister, The Children’s Place, Reebok, Adidas, O’Neil, Mexx, Decathlon, Tom Tailor. We also
work with manufacturers like The Steilman Gruppe, Lebek, and retailers like Walmart, Sears, The
Metro Group, etc. Today, our goods dock into countries like USA, Canada, Mexico, UK, Germany,
Austria, Spain, Italy, France, Netherlands, Middle East, South Africa, Japan, Denmark, Taiwan &
Hong Kong. As on December 31, 2004 we have 43 factories housed over 19 lakh square feet
located in Bangalore (Karnataka, India), employing over 31,500 employees, with 258 production
lines. Our facilities are fully integrated with in house manufacture of components such as labels,
tags, elastics, cords, woven tapes. We also have in house facilities for value added services like
poly fill quilting, embroidery, printing & laundry. As per our proforma consolidated financial
statement, our total sales grew at a CAGR of 19.67% from Rs 26,136 lakhs in 1999-2000 to Rs
53,609 lakhs in 2003-2004 and our PAT grew at a CAGR of 23.52% from Rs 1,602.84 lakhs in
1999-2000 to Rs.3,731.51 lakhs in 2003-04. Total sales and PAT of our group for the six months
ended September 30, 2004, as per our proforma consolidated financial statement, were Rs
37,379 lakhs and Rs 2,479 lakhs respectively.
Presently, Gokaldas Exports is the one stop shop for the worlds most acclaimed
brands. It is the largest manufacturer and exporter of apparels in India with an annual
turnover of US$200 million. 25000 people across 23 manufacturing units work to ensure
that whatever the global trend, Gokaldas exports is always in fashion.

Gokaldas Exports at a Glance

USD 200 million turn over.
23 factories with 13,000+ machines running across them.
25,000 direct employees.
2.5 million peak, monthly production capacity.
21 million garments produced in year.
Exports more than 30 countries.
Full list of our clients

 Abercrombie & Fitch

 Adidas
 All Saints
 American Eagle
 Arvind Brands
 Banana Republic
 Benetton
 Camel Active
 Chico’s
 Columbia
 Diesel
 Decathlon
 DKNY
 Esprit
 Gap
 Grasim Bhiwani
 Guess
 H&M
 Hollister Hurley
 Jock Wolf Skin
 Land's End
 Lee
 Marks and Spencer
 Mexx
 Macy's
 Nike
 North face
 Old Navy
 Puma
 Reebok
Buyers:
 Working process of Sample production
Sample:
Sample is the prototype or model of the garment, upon what the buyer can decide on
how and whether to confirm the order or not.

Sampling Process Flow Chart:

Brief Description of the Sampling Processes

1. Tech Pack Receiving: This is the first stage of the sampling processes. In this stage
Tech Pack or the Technical pack is received from the buyer, via merchandiser. Tech pack
contains all the specifications to produce a garment.

Tech pack contains:

BOM: Bill of material is a raw material needed to be sourced to make a garment or sample
and make it ready for shipment as per buyer’s requirement. In garment manufacturing, BOM
is generally prepared by production merchants. Then has been approved by the responsible
person and handed over to sample department to start sourcing of raw materials

2. CAD & Pattern Making: In this stage pattern is made through CAD. Sometimes pattern is
made manually, but CAD is more popular and easier, Computer-aided design (CAD) is the
use of computer Technology for the design of objects, real or virtual. The design of
geometric models for object shapes, in particular, is often called computer-aided geometric
design (CAGD). However, CAD often involves more than just shapes. As in the manual
drafting of Technical and engineering drawings, the output of CAD often must convey also
symbolic information such as materials, processes, dimensions, and tolerances, according to
application-specific conventions. CAD may be used to design curves and figures in two-
dimensional ("21") space; or curves, surfaces, or solids in three-dimensional ("3D") objects.
Viyellatex pattern section uses Optitex CAD software for pattern making.
Garments sample development section
Garments sample development section

3. Sample Making: Sample making is the ultimate goal of this department. After making the
pattern, the sample is made by using the pattern set.

4. Size Setting: After making the sample, size is set according to the Tech Pack. If there is
any fault, the sample is redone.

5. Pre-Production (PP) Meeting: After the buyer has inspected the sample, a preproduction
meeting is called. In this meeting buyer or his agent, merchandiser, sample manager, all
remain present. They decide on how to and when to start the production. If the decision
Okayed, the sample is ready to go for final production.
6. Grading of Sample: After finalizing the sample. Grading is done. There may be several
grades of a single design. The grading is done to separate the samples and patterns from
each other’s

7. Marker: After grading the samples. The design is inputted into the marker software. This
software specifies how to set the pattern in the actual fabric. By using the marker software
efficiently, fabric can be saved. Viyellatex uses Gerber Garment Technology (GGT) for
marker making.

8. Cutting: After making the marker the pattern is delivered to the cutting unit and the fabric
is cut for final production.

Sample Procedure:
There are some standard sample procedures after pattern making, they are as
follows:

Sourcing the Fabric and Accessories for making the Garment

↓
Cutting (For Sample Only)
↓
Embellishment
↓
Sewing
↓
Iron
↓
Quality Control
↓
Precheck Form
↓
Buyer QC
↓
Forwarding from the Merchandiser
↓
Sending Sample to the Buyer
Types of sample & their uses:
SL SAMPLE
NO.
1 Proto/ Development Sample
2 Size set/ Grade/ Fitting Sample
3 Additional Sample (White Only)
magazine. Photo shot) garment on the
rack.
4 Contract Seal/ Seal Sample
5 Pre-Production (PP) sample
6 Production Sample
7 Sales Man Sample (SMS)
8 Rack Sample
Pre-production sample
USE
To convert the pattern into actual garment.
To fit the styling of the garment.
All these Samples are made to show the
garment of the rack
To gain approval before the bulk
Production.
To gain approval before the bulk
Production.
To gain approval for shipping the garment
To gain approval for bulk production
To show the garment on the rack.
Different Departments in Sampling Garment Industry
Garment technology is a broad-based subject because it combines a number of
individual technologies, with each making a specialized contribution to the production of
garment. The apparel industry is very diverse in nature and along with textile industries, it
forms a complex combination of performing heterogeneous functions of transforming fiber
into yarn and then to fabric. It is one of the oldest and largest industry providing ample
employment opportunities and it exemplifies the growth in global manufacturing. This
industry is very versatile in nature and offers the world with a choice of garments ranging
from mass market to high end fashion. This industry follows a combination of functional and
line type of organization. Garment manufacturing process includes number of processes
from order receiving to dispatching shipment of the finished garments. Apparel
manufacturing flow chart helps understand a garment manufacturing method that how the
raw materials are converted into the wearable garments. The main task for a garment
manufacturer is to produce shell structures out of flat fabrics to match the shape of human
body. The overall flowchart of the garment manufacturing process is illustrated in figure-1.

Figure-1: Flowchart of the garment manufacturing process

Apparel or garment industry is the final stage of textile manufacturing where cloth is cut into
different parts and sews to make various types of apparel. All the process of garment
manufacturing is done in different sections in garment industry. In this article I will discuss
various departments in apparel manufacturing industry.

Various Departments in the Apparel Industry:

Clothing or apparel industry consists of different departments. Every department is
responsible for better production. The various departments working flowchart are given in
figure-2:

Figure-2: Various garment departments working flowchart

We will discuss of the different departments or sections in an apparel industry are

given below:
1. Merchandising
2. Sampling department
3. Fabric sourcing
4. Purchasing department
5. Fabric inspection department
6. Accessory stores department
7. Planning department
8. Laboratory department
9. Machine maintenance
10. CAD section
11. Cutting section
12. Production department
13. Industrial engineering section (IE)
14. Embroidery department
15. Fabric washing section
16. Quality assurance department
17. Finishing department
MERCHANDISING

Merchandising is the presentation of new products. All aspects of a product, including

design, quality, and consumer demand must be considered.

Merchandiser:
Merchandiser is a person who merchandises the goods, specifically for export business. He
works close with buyers to forecast trends, plan stock levels and monitor how well goods for
selling. He also makes sure that goods are available in the right store, at the right time and
at the right price. Merchandising is the dream career for a merchandiser. Some basic
requirements must be needed to become a successful merchandiser.

Fig: Working desk of an apparel merchandiser

Here is the actual meaning of a Merchandiser ……….

M– Should have good managerial capacity.

E– Should have efficient in both English correspondence and spoken.

R– Regular in office attendance.

C– Confident in taking any decision.

H– Must lead on honest life.

A– Always should show positive attitude to resolve any problem.

N– Nicely behaved and never does any argue with buyer and senior.

D– Should be devoted to service.

I– Should have good IQ.

S– Sincere in Work.

E– Enthusiastic in nature and excellent in dealing.

R– Regular in correspondence and rational in behavior.

Merchandiser is the BRIDGE between the industry and the buyer. He have to look after
every job like buying the raw material which is required to finish the product, making the
garment, finishing the garment, documentation, finally shipping. He is the responsible person
to make the product. A garment export unit generally has many department like stores,
cutting, production, packing, checking etc. in which Merchandising department a linking
device of all. The job of a merchandiser is to co ordinate with the entire department in the
office as well as the customers. The merchandiser is the one who creates a good
relationship in between exporter & buyer.

Following are the responsibilities of merchandisers which gives importance to them;

 Internal & external communication,
 Sampling,
 Lab dips,
 Accessories & trims,
 Preparing internal order sheets,
 Preparing purchase orders,
 Advising and assisting production,
 Advising quality department about quality level,
  Mediating production and quality departments,
 Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
 Helping documentation department,
 Taking responsibility for inspections and
 Following shipment.

APPAREL EXPORT MERCHANDISING:

Apparel export merchandising may be defined as ‘all the planning & activities involved right
from the buyer communication & order receiving till the execution or shipment of the order
by fulfilling the following factors (Six Rights):

Right Merchandise: Retailers must fill their shelves with the merchandise that customer
wants.

Right Place: The location of the merchandise is of prime importance since it decides the
accessibility. Much merchandise is seasonal in nature and must be on hand when it is most
needed.

Right Time: Much merchandise is seasonal in nature and must be on hand when it is most
needed.

Right Quantity: A profitable balance between volume of sales and amount of inventory is
the desired goal.

Right Price: Merchandiser must arrive at a price that is high enough to give the store profit
and yet low enough to meet the competition and customers’ expectations.

Right Promotion: Right balance between the investment and the appeal created for the
customers.
Fig 3: Process flow in Apparel industries
The successful execution of any garment export order depends on the work performance of
a merchandiser. Apparel merchandiser is the person who plans and coordinates all the
activities right from the order procuring and till the shipment order. A merchandiser should
have the comprehensive knowledge of his work procedures and responsibilities so that he
could perform his job efficiently and effectively. In the apparel export industry, a
merchandiser has to perform the following functions;

Communication: It is one of the foremost functions of merchandiser because the

merchandiser has to communicate with different levels of people in his day to day activities.

Planning & Programming: A merchandiser has to check the order requirement, planning for
the given order, programming for various activities, proper allocation of work to the
assistants.

Follow ups: It includes sending of samples at various stages of order, buyer and buyer house
for sample and other approvals.

Decision making: A merchandiser has to make several decisions during the order processing
like giving approvals like fabrics, color, design, accessories, and packing, selection of
suppliers and vendors, selection of buyers, sometimes time extensions for order shipment.

Sourcing & Purchasing: A merchandiser may have to do sourcing and purchasing for raw
materials and accessories, suppliers and vendors, new designs, new buyers.

Controlling: This is the crucial activities for any merchandiser. A merchandiser has to make
sure that all the activities are carried out as per the planning and even if there is any
deviation, he/she should make the alternatives measures.

Coordination: Merchandiser has to coordinate in such way to reduce the uncertainties and
difficulties and if there is a problem arises, the merchandiser has to support and lend
helping hand in order to complete the task successfully in the given period. Both the
controlling and coordinating activities complement each other and a merchandiser has to
adopt the both accordingly,

Negotiation: It is the activity of convincing, compromising and cooperation which would

benefit the both parties involved in the negotiation.

Costing: It is the process of estimating the expenditure of a given product and the
subsequent price. It is another crucial function because mostly order conformation depends
on the price offered to the buyers. The merchandiser should know the current prices and
rates of various products and processes to do the accurate costing.
Meeting: There are two types of meeting a merchandiser has to be involved. First type, a
merchandiser has to conduct the meeting with the concern department in charges to
discuss about the proceedings and the status of the running order. In second type, a
merchandiser has to attend the meeting with the superiors or buyers or business people in
giving reporting or participation or discussion.

Forecasting: Forecasting is the activity of predicting the future happenings or problems. A

merchandiser has to predict the future uncertainties in the current order or industry so that
alternative actions or corrective measures can be taken in advance this also includes giving
suggestion or ideas about new technologies or new products or latest industry trends.

CAD SYSTEM AND ITS APPLICATION IN

SAMPLE PRODUCTION INDUSTRY

Computer Aided Design (CAD) has been a boon for designing and manufacturing industry
allowing efficiency and productivity which a normal pen-paper design can never compare
with. The CAD system and its tools have become an essential component of garment
manufacturing - fast fashion makers, designers, even traditional fashion manufacturers now
own a CAD system. In this article, we are going to look at how the implementation of CAD
technology has revolutionized the textile and garment industry.

Introduction to Computer Aided Design (CAD)

CAD is a set of software tools compiled in a computer application to assists product designer
in creating a virtual representation of the artefacts they are designing. It helps in giving
dimension to any design, experimenting changes on it, configuring the design according to
needs, archiving the design, exchanging of data and information related to the design
between teams and organization, adding progress of the designs for future analysis,
assisting tool for product manufacturing by means of a computer system which may include
both hardware and software.

The long and cumbersome process of designing has now been converted to a mere simple
process on a computer system. CAD can be used to design curves and figures in two-
dimensional (2D) space; curves, surfaces, and solids in three-dimensional (3D) space. Even a
2D design can be converted to 3D for a better representation of the design.

The output of CAD conveys information, such as materials, processes, dimensions, and
tolerances, according to application-specific conventions.

Categorization of CAD Systems

The use of CAD in the textile and apparel industry can be categorized by
1. CAD for fabric design
Fabric designing on CAD includes both surface design and structural design. It acts as a
stimulation for all types of fabric and allows us to plan a complex weave, color scheme, etc.
With the powerful features, the software is able to create a pattern based on the design and
can also generate an infinite number of designs variation. We can also create any kind of
weave pattern starting from plain to dobby and jacquard. Some of the prominent software
are Design Dobby, Design Jacquard from Textronic, Pro Weave from Pointcarre, TUKAstudio
for TUKATECH, Weave It, Adobe Illustrator etc.

2. CAD for apparel design

For any garment to be made the process starts with a proper design of the garment which
will contain the shape of the garment, any design or embellishment that will go on the
garment etc. all this process can now be done entirely on computer system where we can
design the garment, check out color combinations, make changes if needed and along with
that documentation. After that, they can be made ready for pattern making. Some of the
most useful design software are Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw, AutoCAD,
Smart Designer Modern High Tech, Telestia Creator etc.

3. CAD for pattern making

The use of CAD in pattern making comes a great deal in garment export house, fashion
school, medium or large size garment business etc. because of its features and convenience.
With CAD the clumsy and tough job of pattern making which required skill technician can be
done with ease and accuracy. With this pattern, a maker can justify image efficiency before
print out through 2D/3D visual effects. Nowadays even a garment can be scanned and
modified digitally and printed again on the plotter. With CAD the accuracy and easiness of
pattern digitizing, drafting, grading has increased many folds. It also helps in visualizing the
measurements of different styles and gain control of internal features such as notches,
button, drill holes. Some of the world-renowned pattern making software along with their
website link are Lectra, Gerber Accumark, O/DEV by Optitex, TUKAcad by Tukatech,
Richpeace, Gemini CAD systems Wild Ginger etc.

Some of the popular CAD software are

There are many CAD software solution providers for the garment and textile industry. Here
is a list of such popular CAD systems.

 AccuMark Pattern Design Software by Gerber Technology

 CAD.Assyst by Human Solution Assyst AVM
 Modrais by Lectra Systems
 Optitex Pattern Design software by Optitex
 TUKAcad by Tukateck Inc.
 Fashion Cad by Cad Cam Solutions Australia Pty. Ltd
 SDS-ONE APEX3 from Shima Seiki
 PAD System
  GT CAD by Genuine Technology and Research Limited

Marker Planning in Garment Industry

Introduction:
Marker is a long thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for different sizes
for a particular style of garments. It is planned in such a way that fabric wastage would be
least.

By making a marker it is possible to achieve more benefit by producing a garment with

reduced wastage. Normally the width of a marker is kept according to the cutable width of
the fabric and the length of a marker normally depends on the number and sizes of pattern
placed on a marker.

The length also depends on-

 Number of garments to be produced from a spread lay

 Length of cutting table
 Production planning etc.

For marker making, white paper or newsprint paper is used. At first all large patterns are
placed on the marker. After that small sized patterns are placed in between the gaps of
large patterns. In this way higher marker efficiency can be achieved. To produce a marker

with better efficiency, a very efficient maker is required.

Objectives of this study:

1. To use the least amount of fabric to produce a garment and make industry
profitable every time.
 2. To cut huge amount of fabric in short time.
3. To calculate the consumption for a particular style.
4. To cut large amount of fabric using less people.
5. To cut the fabric with perfection according to the measurement.
6. To make a perfect production plan.

Points should be considered before marker planning:

 Fabric width must be higher than the marker width
 Fabric length must be higher than the marker length
 When the pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric, the grain line should be
parallel to the line of the warp in a woven fabric and wales in a knit fabric. Where
pattern pieces are laid across the layer, the grain line is kept parallel to weft/course.
 All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid
down on an asymmetric fabric.
 Length of cutting table should be considered.

For efficient marker planning, it is required to ensure the following things:

 One should easily see the full length.

 To know about the appropriate width of the fabric.
 The marker starts with the large pattern pieces. Then fits the smaller pieces in the
gap of the larger pieces. Thus, the fabric wastage is minimized and efficiency is
increased. (It is the common technique)
 After that the patterns are shuffled in various directions to reduce the marker
length. It also helps to increase marker efficiency.

Requirements of marker planning:

Marker planning is more of a creative, intuitive and conceptualizing process rather than a
technical one and there is no final result for a marker planning. The main purpose is to
produce a shortest marker by considering all the practical and technical constraints. The
constraints in making a shortest marker are related to

 Fabric characteristics and the design requirement in the finished garment

 Cutting quality
 Production planning

Fabric characteristic and the design requirement in finished

garment:
1. Alignment of patterns with respect to fabric grain – All the patterns in the marker plan
should be kept such that the grain line in the pattern should be parallel to the fabric
selvedge for better hanging and draping of garments.

2. Fabric symmetry and asymmetry – If the face and back side of the fabrics have a similar
appearance, then they are called ‘two-way’ or ‘symmetrical’ fabrics and it does not warrant
any special requirement while marker planning. The asymmetric fabric where the face and
back are dissimilar needs some attention during marker planning. Examples of asymmetric
fabrics are those having a nap or pile. More complicated fabrics are ‘one way’ or
‘asymmetrical’. These kinds of fabrics have a surface pile or a print design that has a
recognizable object which can only be used one way.

3. Design requirements in final garment – Design aspects of final garments also have to be
considered while marker planning to get a better visual appearance of the finished garment.
For instance, if a vertical stripe in a garment does not exhibit a complete replica of a repeat
on the right and left panels of garment it looks awkward.

Definition of Marker:
A marker is commonly done by large thin paper that holds all the size of pattern pieces for a
specific style of garments. Marker is the perfect way to reduce fabric wastage. Marker gives
actual guide line for completing the flawless or correct fabric cutting. Marker making can be
done in both ways like manually and computerized method.

Marker width is greater than or equal to the fabric width. Marker length is mainly depends
on the number of patterns of the particular style of garments used for marker making.

Marker length depends on some other factors. These are:

1. No. of garments produced by a lay of a spread.

2. Length of the cutting table.
3. Production planning.
Computerized marker making method:
Computerized method is the best and most popular method of marker making. Generally it
gives higher efficiency. During this marker making method every specific style and part of
the patterns are kept in the computer memory and grade rule is also mentioned. To do this
marker making, computerized marker paper directly placed on fabric layer. Then the
computer makes the marker by its programming techniques. Computer Aided Design (CAD)
system are used to make marker. Comparison between manual and CAD marker making is
huge.

Fig: Computerized marker making

For completing the computerized marker making, pattern information’s can be stored by
different manners. Such as:

a. Digitizing system
b. Scanning system

a. Digitizing system:

 Patterns are placed in computer by using the digitizing board to run this process.
 Every component is sent to the computer memory by clicking special mouse around
the pieces.

b. Scanning system:
This is special kind of photocopier machine. Two things are done here. They are:

 Production or Working patterns are set up on the scanning glass and then marker is
made in a selected size.
 For making other size grade rule is used.
 Fig: CAD system use to make marker
Types of computerized marker making method:
Computerized marker making method is mainly two types. Such as:

i. Automatic marker making

ii. Interactive marker making

i. Automatic marker making:

 To do this automatic marker making method, computer can make marker itself
according to given commands.
 From this method most efficient marker can be got.
 Computer makes marker with the help of permutation and combination but it
required more time.

ii. Interactive marker making:

 Interactive marker making is a very common process.

 Computer operator takes a marker plan by interacting directly with the system
through a computer screen.
 Every pattern pieces are shown in a miniature of the screen.
 Operators are transferring patterns information by the use of pen drive or tablet.

Advantage of computerized marker making:

 Perfect method for large scale production

 Marker efficiency is high
 Low fabric wastage
 If you want to get marker print out then it possible.
 pattern grading could be done by automatically
 Low time consumption
 This method help to prepare marker quickly

Disadvantage of computerized marker making:

 High investment cost

 Required skilled operator
An Overview of Garments Marker Making
Marker :
Generally we know, marker is a thin piece of paper that contains all the required pattern
pieces of all sizes for a specific style of garments.

According to Glock and Kunz, “A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern

pieces for sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from in one spread.”

So, a maker is a schematic of the graded pattern pieces that is used as a cutting guide. When
produced by experienced marker makers, a marker will optimize the usage of your fabric
and improve overall cutting quality.

Marker Making and Planning :

Marker making means adjusting and drawing according to pattern pieces on the the marker
paper. The marker planner makes a plan for each pattern and its position on marker paper
to ensure better efficiency. It can be done manually or using CAD system.

In case of manual marker making time, skill and concentration are required for making a
efficient marker. Factories those don’t have CAD system perform this process manually.

According to Glock and Kunz, “Marker making is the process of determining a most efficient
layout of pattern pieces for a style, fabric and distribution of sizes.”

Use of CAD:
In computerized marker making method, CAD(Computer Aided Design) system is used.
Computer Aided Design (CAD) becomes an essential tool for pattern making and related
jobs in garment industry. In apparel industry CAD Software is used for pattern making,
Grading of pattern, marker making and digitizing manual patterns.

Marker making using CAD

At first by using CAD marker planning is done in the computer , then according to that plan a
printed marker paper comes out of the plotter . Plotter is used to print the pattern pieces on
marker paper.
 Plotter Machine
Though the use of CAD is costly ,but the use of CAD is increasing in our country, because-
markers can be transferred via email, decreasing shipping costs and improving turnaround
time markers are archived on our system and readily available for reprinting; having the
ability to issue markers to one or more factories allows for more flexibility computerized
production markers optimize the layout of pattern pieces to minimize waste and maximize
profits markers can be used for computer cutting or hand cutting

Widely used CAD systems in the apparel industry are listed below,

 Modaris by Lectra Systems (used in Bangladesh)

 AccuMark Pattern Design Software by Gerber Technology (used in Bangladesh)
 Optitex Pattern Design software by Optitex
 CAD.Assyst by Human Solution Assyst AVM
 TUKAcad by Tukateck Inc.

Sourcing Process in Apparel Industry

The impact of global trade in apparel manufacturing has evolved the concept of fast fashion
in a scenario where apparel is produced quickly with a low cost and with the ‘chic look’ now
dominating the retail world. Fast fashion is mass-produced, reasonable in price for most
consumers and easy to obtain, making it simple for anyone to look stylish. However, to
become dominant in this retail business sector, sourcing has become a pivotal stage in the
manufacturing process.

Sourcing is defined as the process of determining how and from where manufactured goods
or components will be procured. The main motivation of the sourcing process is to obtain
high satisfaction with the low-cost. Materials essentially incorporate piece products that will
be cut and converted into the garments. In the case of raw material, it is also important that
the raw material is available (both in quality wise and quantity wise) when it is needed along
with the suitability of the material for garment design and end use. Sourcing essentially
decides the most cost-effective merchant of materials, finds out where the material can be
generated from and from where the completed products at the pre-determined quality be
bought. It is one of the integral part of merchandiser’s responsibility. Sourcing department
along with merchandiser assumes the fundamental part of executing the order and
shipment of them at lowest price. Merchandiser must ensure that all approvals related to
the fabric and trims ought to be composed of the sourcing division in allotted time. Lead
time, fabric and trim approval process, logistics expense and international commercial
(INCO) terms are the essential parameters that need to be considered while choosing the
sourcing strategies for a specific order.

In order to source any material, the steps illustrated in Figure-1 must be followed. Once, the
purchase requisition (the request raised by a division for a material or a service) is given, the
sourcing process starts. Based on the request, the merchandiser and sourcing manager start
the process of supplier selection. After identifying the potential suppliers / vendors, the
company creates a Request for Quote (RFQ) and sends it to the suppliers for getting
quotation which is a document prepared by the supplier stating the description of the goods
or services they are providing and the price along with the terms and conditions.
Once the quotations are received from various suppliers, merchandiser or sourcing manager
compare the quotations received from various suppliers and select any one supplier based
on varying factors such as quality of good or service, price, negotiations, etc. If the order
quantity is high and time for getting the material for production is less, then two or more
suppliers may also be selected depending upon the need. After the selection process, the
manufacturing firm raises a purchase order to the service or raw material offering supplier.
Based on the purchase order, the supplier sends the material after accepting the terms and
conditions of both the parties. Once the goods are received at the receiving dock or
warehouse by the buyer, the buyer creates a goods received note (GRN) after checking the
quality of materials as per the specification. If materials don’t meet the standards, they are
rejected and sent to the supplier. If materials meet the quality specifications, then they are
updated in stock and a receipt copy is provided to the supplier as a proof of supplying the
goods. The supplier also sends invoice requesting payment for the goods provided. The
buyer makes the payment based on the invoice and supplier gives the receipt for receiving
funds and the process gets completed. After all these formalities are completed, the buyer
evaluates the suppliers’ services based on various factors such as quality of goods provided,
timeliness of supply and adherence to terms and conditions, etc. The above-mentioned
steps are followed in every sourcing process.
 Figure-1: Sourcing cycle in apparel industry
Classifications of sourcing process:
Different strategies are adopted for the procurement of raw material for the apparel industry.
The following are the various types of sourcing process based on the requirements.

 Local manufacturer - Fabric is manufactured locally, with local infrastructure

 Traditional export - Local fabric is exported to garment manufacturing countries
 International sourcing - Fabric is made locally, but raw yarn or fiber is sourced from
other countries
 Global sourcing - Fabrics are made with parts sourced from abroad as part of global
sourcing strategy
 Off-shoring - Raw material is exported first i.e., yarn or fiber, then fabric is re-
imported to meet the demand
 Global manufacturing - Fabric is manufactured in other country.

Out of the above-mentioned methods, the local manufacturing process is most commonly
used by all the manufacturers. In case where there is no adequate infrastructure available in
local market, the manufacturers shift to off-shoring or global manufacturing methods,
especially for fabrics. These decisions of sourcing must be performed by merchandiser along
with higher authority consultation. However, the role of the merchandiser in this decision-
making process is very vital. Because the merchandiser is the only person in the company
who will be aware of the status from the vendor or manufacturing side and also about the
exact needs and requirements of the customer.

Stages of Sourcing Process in apparel industry:

The stages in sourcing process are very subjective and dynamic; they differ for each and
every order based on specific requirements. Hence, the merchandiser cannot have pre-
determined standard operating procedure. In the same way, the lead time for each process
will also vary depending upon the raw material even though the vendor remains same. The
typical sourcing process of fabric / trims / other raw material sourcing in an apparel industry
can be described as:

Stage 1: Proto sample approval

Stage 2: Approval process for material

 Trim card – for trims

 Artwork – for prints and embroidery

 Lab dips – for dyed fabric

 Desk loom – for fabric

 Print strike-off – for print colour and quality.

Stage 3: Approval / rework / correction of material and results from buyer

Stage 4: Purchase order development

Stage 5: Sample fabric / trims / lab dips for testing as per requirements

Stage 6: Approval from the customer / buyer

Stage 7: Bulk production and in-house.

In this process, the material refers to fibre, yarn, fabric interlinings, buttons, zippers and
other required items. The main objective of the sourcing process is to search and identify
the target material anywhere in the world, negotiate for product quality and price and
source the material at required time and quantity. Strong and supportive relationship with
the vendor is essential for the successful execution of any merchandising process. The
development, selection and sourcing are the responsibility of the creative and technical
designer of the factory along with the merchandiser.

This material sourcing process must be initiated well ahead as per the forecasting and line
development process. In most of the cases, since the customer requires the samples in the
original fabric, the fabric orders are the one which will be initiated very first in the line
development process. Since the availability at the right time and right quantity is the vital
factor in the case of fabric along with design and end use requirements, it is ordered at very
initial stage. In the same way, the accessories and findings are also sourced little earlier in
the production process, however, the risk associated with the product requirements remain
same like, in terms of cost, quality requirements and also the matching and suitability.

Factors Affecting Sourcing Process:

Lead time:
Lead time of the products varies with respect to different points like

 Point of origin

 Mode of transportation

 Open stock material or specifically made items

 Performance test requirements

 Imported or domestic.

In case of the imported product, the goods may require 6–9 months’ time based on the
location. Moreover, this also depends on the shipping methods used for transportation. In
the same way, open stock materials are often available and delivered within few days due to
its availability. Open stock are the materials which the producer / vendors make and stock
based on the anticipation of demand. Fabric, trims and other materials sourcing is a very
time-consuming process which includes desk loom and lab dip approvals, trim and artwork
approval, FPT approval. The approximate lead time for different processes are provided
here:

 For fabric sourcing – 1–2 months

 Yarn dyed fabric – 1.5 months

 Fiber dyed material – 2 months

Based on the order requirement, the merchandiser needs to choose the particular vendor
from the huge list of vendors, where he has to mind the quality and cost factors along with
the lead time. Among the vendors, there are differences in lead time based on their
manufacturing facility and capacity. Merchandiser should be aware of all those factors and
should choose the correct supplier for the product.

Minimum order quantity (MOQ):

Minimum order quantity or order minimum is the smallest quantity a vendor will sell on a
single purchase order. This is one of the important factors that affect the sourcing process.
Every supplier requires a certain minimum order quantity to produce the fabric and trim
economically; otherwise, the cost of production will be higher if production is below
minimum order quantity. If garment exporter places the order of raw material below
minimum order quantity, then generally, cost will be more for that. Hence throughout the
supply chain minimum order quantity is maintained in order to achieve the appropriate cost
of production.

However, with respect to the apparel and fashion industry, the minimum order quantity or
reasonable minimum quantity cannot be optimized. The firms often receive order with bare
minimum quantity which may be due to several reasons like limited editions (designers
clothing), technical difficulties, focused on a particular group of customers, etc. In that case,
the concept of order minimum is a serious issue in case of apparel manufacturing. In those
situations, merchandisers will use open stock materials, which is very widely available.

Logistics facilities:
Logistics is one of the main factors which affect the fabric sourcing lead time drastically.
There are several aspects with respect to it which are given below:

1. Time required for transportation

2. Infrastructure for logistics

3. The cost of logistics.

A merchandiser needs to evaluate the logistic facilities and create an association with
logistics firms also. After manufacturing the required quantity of the product on time, delays
in shipping due to logistics would lead to losses in effort and money involved in the
manufacturing process. The cost of logistics will directly affect the cost of a garment; hence,
merchandiser should be well aware of these aspects of logistics and then place the order for
fabric and trims.

Quality parameters:
As the purpose of sourcing process demands high quality product for low cost, the need for
the quality products increases in the market. Providing cheaper products with higher quality
will lead to a better relationship with the buyer and also increases the profit margin of the
firm. The profit is another important driving factor for companies to outsource products in
domestic and also in overseas companies. Though outsourcing is an effective way to do
business, it may sometimes lead to losses when materials supplier like fabric and trims
supplier does not meet the quality parameters thereby creating trouble for apparel
merchandiser to execute the export order.

The ability of vendor to produce or manufacture the require quality of product depends on
a number of factors as given below:

 Workforce or skill of the operator

 Worker’s flexibility to work with wide range of products

 The technology used to develop product quality.

 These are the indirect factors which have more influence on the quality of the
product. Merchandiser should also be aware of this information of a specific vendor
before issuing the order. Additionally, the accuracy of written communications and
 instructions received from the garment manufacturer/ apparel merchandiser is also
another important factor to get the required quality in the end product.

Sourcing costs:
The cost is the foremost and highly influencing phenomena, in a sourcing decision. The
merchandiser always seeks for low-price manufacturers in the market without
compromising the product’s quality requirements. Generally, the cost of manufacturing a
higher quality product is costlier than the low-quality product, due to the cost of raw
material and manufacturing technologies implied, hence, the merchandiser needs to
identify an optimum mix between the quality and the cost. The cost of the sourcing process
depends on following factors:

 Labour wages

 Manufacturing cost

 Cost of logistics/transportation

 INCO term negotiated (for international sourcing)

The other factors which indirectly relates to the product price are advertising cost,
certification cost and adjustment for a defective and damaged product.

Fabric inspection department:

The main aims of fabric inspection team are

1. Identification and analysis of fabric defects using various standard methods.

2. Selection of fabric according to AQL (accepted quality level)1.5.

Accessory stores department:

The receipt of the raw materials or the accessories is normally completed in terms of
documents that are received from the merchants.

Fabric Spreading Modes and Their Applications

What is spreading mode?

Fabric spreading mode is the manner in which fabric plies are laid out for cutting. The
spreading mode is determined by the fabric characteristics, quality standards of the firm,
and available equipment. Two fabric characteristics that determine the spreading mode are
the direction of fabric and the direction of the fabric nap.
Fig-1: Different fabric spreading mode

Fabric Spreading Modes and Their Applications:

Depending on the pattern and other properties, a fabric may be spread in different ways.
The spreading mode determines the placement of the face side of each fabric ply in a spread
– up or down – and the placement direction of each fabric ply in a spread – in one or both
directions.

‘Face up in a single direction’ spreading mode:

All the plies are spread with their face side up and in one direction (see Fig-2). After a ply is
laid, it is cut from the fabric roll across its width. This is the most commonly used spreading
mode.

There are several reasons for its wide application:

 Most types of textile materials can be spread in this manner.

 The rejection of fabric faults can be carried out during the spreading process.

 Styles with asymmetrical components that can be cut as pattern pieces in a marker
are also placed with their face side up.

Fig-2: Placement of fabric plies performing in a ‘face up in a single direction’ spreading

mode.

The disadvantage of this mode is the necessity of spreading of each ply from one end of the
spread. It is necessary to repeat this ‘dead heading’ movement of a fabric ply for the entire
roll over the table, thus increasing the spreading time and work required. ‘Face up in one
direction’ spreading cannot be used for fabrics with a short-cut pile (velvet, corduroy, plush,
artificial fur) as the plies are likely to slip over each other.

‘Face up in both directions’ spreading mode:

All the plies are spread with their face side up and in both directions (see Fig-3). After a ply
is laid, it is cut from the fabric roll across its width. To ensure the face side is upwards in all
plies, the fabric roll has to be turned through 180° at the end of every ply.

Fig-3: Placement of fabric plies performing in a ‘face up in both directions’ spreading mode.

In contrast to the ‘face up in a single direction’ mode, there is no need for ‘dead heading’ in
this mode. However, additional time is needed to turn the fabric roll at the end of every ply.

This spreading mode cannot be used in the following situations:

 If the fabric has a nap or pile;

 If the fabric has a pattern in one direction only and its location in a style is strictly
determined.

‘Face down in a single direction’ spreading mode:

All the plies are spread with their face side down in a single direction (see Fig-4). After a ply
is laid, it is cut from the fabric roll across its width. This spreading mode is used for knitted
fabrics where the cut edges will roll. It is difficult to fix the ply ends if face side up spreading
is used (see Fig-5).

Fig-4: Placement of fabric plies performing in a ‘face down in a single direction’ spreading
mode.

Fig-5: Knitted fabric plies with rolling cut edges in a spread

This spreading mode cannot be used in the following situations:

 Where a style has asymmetrical components and the pattern pieces in a marker are
placed with their face side up;

 Where the rejection of fabric faults has to be carried out during the spreading
process.

‘Face to face in a single direction’ spreading mode:

The first material ply is spread with its face side up. The ply is laid and then cut from the
fabric roll across its width. After or during the ‘dead heading’ procedure, the fabric roll is
turned through 180° and the next ply is spread in the same direction with its face side down
(see Fig-6).

Fig-6: Placement of fabric plies performing in a ‘face to face in a single direction’ spreading
mode.

This spreading mode is used for materials with a short-cut pile (velvet, corduroy, plush,
artificial fur) to prevent the plies from slipping during the spreading and cutting processes.
‘Face to face in both directions’ or ‘zig-zag’ spreading mode:
The fabric is spread in both directions. At the end of each ply, the fabric is folded and
spreading continues in the opposite direction. So, the first ply has its face side up, the
second ply has its face side down and the third ply is again face side up (see Fig-7). ‘Zig-zag’
spreading may be used for different fabrics. It does not require the fabric plies to be cut,
thus saving time. It is also possible to save material as there is no need for safety allowances
at the end of a spread. If required, folded material plies may be also separated by shears or
a knife.

Fig-7: Placement of fabric plies performing in a ‘face to face in both directions’ spreading
mode

This spreading mode cannot be used in the following situations:

 Where the rejection of fabric faults has to be carried out during spreading;

 Where a style has asymmetrical components;

 Where a fabric has an asymmetrical pattern and its location in the style is strictly
determined.

Spreading Machines Used in Garment Industry

Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in
preparation for cutting each piece of garment. Generally, the spreading process can be done
manually or by computer controlled machines. One or two person, based on the fabric type
and width of fabric, type of spreading machine and size of spread, can be involved in the
spreading process. In case of the manual spreading process, two persons are normally
required except when the spread is too short. One person on each side of the spreading
table could work during spreading to keep the fabric flat, smooth and tension-free. With the
automatic spreading process, the equipment itself controls the fabric tension, fabric
placement and rate of travel.

Spreading Machines Used in Garment Industry:

Different types of machines and equipments used in fabric spreading process. Basically they
can be classified in three categories. They are:

1. Manual spreading machines

2. Semi-automatic spreading machines

3. Fully automatic spreading machines

Either those types of garment spreading machine, various types of spreading machines and
equipments also used in apparel industry. They are described below.

Spreading table:
Spreading normally requires a flat, smooth surface. Spreading and cutting tables are
available in standard widths. A spreading table should be about 10″ wider than the fabric
width (Figure-1). It may have rails fixed on the top of a spreading table to guide and control
the spreader as it moves along the length of the table. With modern high speed spreading
machines, all the drives are synchronised to control the fabric tension.

Figure-3: A spreading table

Specialised spreading tables are also available depending on the type of fabric and cutting.
One kind of spreading has an option of a row of pins that are placed below the table surface
and can be drawn-out above the table through slots for better gripping of fabric in an
accurate position for getting an accurate pattern matching in case of repeats. Vacuum
tables are also available to compress the lay and prevent sliding of plies during cutting.

The fabric can be spread on one table and then transferred to the cutting table. With the air
flotation facility in spreading tables, a lay can be transported easily to the adjacent cutting
table. A layer of air between the top of the table and the bottom layer of paper reduces
friction and allows a lay to be moved easily. Spreading tables with a conveyor arrangement
move the fabric from the spreading table to the cutting table with ease to minimise the
handling and transportation time.

Methods of Fabric Cutting:

During cutting, separate garment components are cut out from the fabric spreading in
accordance with their shape and number determined by the marker. Fabric cutting is
completed by different types of fabric cutting machines. In most of the cutting methods, a
sharp blade is pressed against the fibers of the fabric to separate them. The cutting knife has
to present a very thin edge to the fibers, to shear the fibers without exerting a force that will
deform the fabric. The act of cutting desharpens the blade, which should be sharpened
frequently.

Fully Manual Fabric Cutting Methods:

1. Hand shears – Hand shears are commonly utilized for cutting single or double fabric plies.
The lower blade passes under the plies; however, the consequent distortion of the fabric is
temporary and accurate cutting to the line can be attained only with practice. The major
drawback in this method is that it is a time intensive one and incurs a higher labor cost per
garment.

2. Short knife – It pierces through the fabric; 10 to 12 fabric layers could be accurately cut.
Heavy weight or denser fabrics have to be used for cutting using this short knife as it distorts
several fabric layers while cutting through the fabric.

Manually Operated Power Knives:

Portable power knives are normally moved manually through a lay by means of an operator.
Two main kinds of power knives are vertical straight knives and round knives. Construction-
wise, both the knives have a base plate, power system, handle, cutting blade, sharpening
device and blade guard. The round knives operate with a single force as the circular blade
makes contact with the fabric, but the vertical knives cut with an up-and-down action. A
straight blade will always maintain a perpendicular contact with the lay (90°) so that all the
fabric plies in a spread could be cut at the same time. However, this will not be the case for
a rotary knife blade as it contacts the spread at a certain angle. In both cases, the fabric that
has to be cut is kept stationary and the knife blade fixed on the machine is moved by an
operator to cut the fabric.

The basic elements of manually operated power knives are given below:

 Knife blades – Knife blades have a major influence on the quality of the cut. The
performance of the knife blades are influenced by factors such as the blade edge,
surface texture of the blade, fineness of the blade edge and blade composition.
Blade edges may be straight with a flat surface, saw-toothed, serrated or wavy
surface. Straight edge blades are used for general-purpose, serrated blades to
reduce heat generation during cutting, wavy edges for cutting plastics and vinyl, and
saw-type blades for cutting canvas.
  Base plate – It supports and balances the equipment. It guides the knife along the
cutting table and raises the spread off the table for contact with the blade. It is
normally supported by bearing rollers at the bottom to facilitate easy movement of
the base plate.

 Power system – The power required to cut a lay depends on the lay height and
fabric weight (grams per square metre, GSM). The motor horsepower determines
the cutting power of the blade; higher horsepower increases machine power as well
as the motor weight.

 Sharpening devices – Blades become blunt very quickly while cutting higher spread
height or heavy weight fabrics which leads to frayed or fused edges. Sharpening
devices such as emery wheels, abrasive belt sharpeners or stone could be used on
the machine.

 Handle – It is used to guide and impel the knife through the spread. The operator
stabilises the fabric plies on the other hand, which is ahead of the knife to prevent
bunching of the fabric.

The different types of power knives are described below:

1. Straight knife fabric cutting machine:

This is the most frequently used equipment for cutting garments in bulk. It comprises a base
plate, vertically moving blade, an upright, a motor for providing the power for cutting the
fabric plies, a handle for the cutter to direct the blade, and a sharpening device.

Typically, the height of the knife blade varies from 10 to 33 cm and strokes vary from 2.5 to
4.5 cm. The straight knife is versatile, portable, cheaper than a band knife, more accurate on
curves than a round knife, and relatively reliable and easy to maintain. In a few cases, a
straight knife system is used as the preliminary process to cut the lay and then a band knife
is used for accurate cutting as the final process.
2. Servo assisted straight knife cutting machine:

A development from a straight knife machine has a travelling suspension system which
supports the knife from the top, hence heavy base plate and rollers could be changed with a
small, flat base (Figure-1). These servo knife systems provide a higher degree of cutting
precision than the previous version of unsupported straight knife systems, with the
requirement of less operator skill.
Figure-1: Straight knife with servo assisted arm support

3. Round knife cutting machine:

The basic elements of a round knife are analogous to a straight knife except it has a round
blade. The blade diameter varies from 6 to 20 cm. Round knives are not appropriate for
cutting curved lines especially in high lays as the circular blade could not cut all the plies at
the same point as well as the same time as in a vertical blade. Hence, it could be utilized
only for cutting straight lines rather than curved ones.

4. Band knife cutting machine:

It is normally engaged for accurate cutting of garment components. It consists of an

electrically powered motor and a constantly rotating steel blade mounted over it . In this
cutting system, the knife is stationary which moves through a small slot provided in the
table and the fabric has to be moved manually to the blade area for accurate cutting.

Advantage of Manual Cutting Method:

1. Easy process of cutting.

2. Educated man power is not required.

3. Low cost knife is enough here to cut the fabric.

4. Low maintenance cost.

Disadvantage of Manual Cutting Method:

1. Slow process.

2. Not suitable for large scale production.

3. Cutting speed cannot be controlled.

4. Intensity of accident is very high.

5. Higher labor cost than computerized cutting method