Course Code: TE- 4401

Course Name: Advanced Apparel Manufacturing Engineering-I

Credits: 03

Course Instructor
Forkan Sarker, Ph.D
UN Fellow, Commonwealth Scholar
Ph.D in Materials(The University of Manchester,UK)
MSc in Advanced Materials (University of Bolton, UK )
B.Sc. in Textile Technology (Dhaka University),
Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Engineering
Dhaka University of Engineering and Technology, Gazipur
 Advanced Apparel Manufacturing Engg.-1

• Lecture 1- Introduction to quality control in the apparel industry

• Lecture 2- Raw materials and finished garment inspection
• Lecture 3- Quality, quality control, design to dispatch
• Lecture 3-4- In process inspection
• Lecture 5-6- How to make final inspection, different methods of
inspection
• Lecture 7-8- Product quality audits and comparability test.
• Lecture 9- TQM in apparel industry
• Lecture 10,11- Six sigma and their application in apparel industry
• Lecture 12- Lean manufacturing in apparel production
• Lecture 13- 5’s in Apparel production.
• Lecture 14,15- Fabric sew ability assessment
• Lecture 16- Setting and selection of machines per line for trouser, shirt.
• Lecture 17- latest trend in the apparel indsutry
• Lecture 18- review of the semester.
 Reference books

1. An introduction to quality control for apparel industry by

Pradip V Mehta
2. Managing quality control in the apparel industry by Pradip v
Mehta
3. Quality characterization for apparel by Subroto
 Lecture-1
(Introduction to quality control in apparel industry)
 Quality assurance
Quality assurance is the “process of designing, producing,
evaluating, and assessing products to determine that they meet
the desired quality level for a company’s target market” (Kadolph,
2007, p. 6).
 Quality control
Quality control is generally understood as assessing for quality after
products have already been manufactured and sorted into
acceptable and unacceptable categories.
 Quality
Quality is a multifaceted concept that describes how well a service,
process, material, or product possesses desired intangible or physical
attributes (Kadolph, 2007).

Quality -actually the ultimate customer satisfaction towards a product.

Quality requirement in apparel industry
•Understanding the customers' quality requirements.
•Organizing & training quality control department.
•Ensuring proper flow of quality requirements to the QC
department.
•Ensuring proper flow of quality requirements to the Production
department.
•Establishing quality plans, parameters, inspection systems,
frequency, sampling techniques, etc..
•Inspection, testing, measurements as per plan.
•Record deviations
•Feed back to Production Department.
•Plan for further improvement.
 Establishing the Quality Requirements
• Getting customers specifications regarding the quality
• Referring our past performance
• Discussing with the Quality Control Department
• Discussing with the Production Department
• Giving the Feed Back to the customers
• Receiving the revised quality requirements from the
customers
• Accepting the quality parameters
 Aspects of quality

•Good Design- Looks and style

•Good functionality- it does the job well
• Reliable- acceptable level of breakdowns or failure
•Consistency
•Durable- lasts as long as it should
• Good after sales service
•Value for money
 Advantages of quality control

With quality control, inspection is intended to prevent faulty

products reaching the customer. This approach 5 means having

specially trained inspectors, rather than every individuals being

responsible for his or her own work. Furthermore, it is thought that

inspectors may be better placed to find widespread problem across

an organization
 Disadvantages of quality control
A major problem is that individuals are not necessarily encouraged to
take responsibility for the quality of their own work. Rejected product is
expensive for a firm as it has incurred the full costs of production but
cannot be sold as the manufacturer does not want its name associated
with substandard product. Some rejected product can be re-worked, but
in many industries it has to be scrapped – either way rejects incur more
costs, A quality control approach can be highly effective at preventing
defective products from reaching the customer. However, if defect levels
are very high, the company’s profitability will suffer unless steps are
taken to tackle the root causes of the failures
 Quality Principles
“A quality management principle is a comprehensive and
fundamental rule/ belief, for leading and operating an
organization, aimed at continually improving performance
over the long term by focusing on customers while
addressing the needs of all other stake holders”

1: CUSTOMER FOCUS
2: LEADERSHIP
3: INVOLVEMENT OF PEOPLE
4: PROCESS APPROACH
5: SYSTEM APPROACH TO MANAGEMENT
6: CONTINUAL IMPROVEMENT
7: FACTUAL APPROACH TO DECISION MAKING
8: MUTUALLY BENEFICIAL SUPPLIER RELATIONS
Organisations who are monitoring the quality in the apparel industry:
1. American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists –AATC
2. American Society for Testing and Materials-ASTM
3. American Society for Quality-ASQ
4. American Apparel and Footwear Association-AAFA
5. Textile Clothing and Technology Corporation –TC
6. American National Standards Institute –ANSI
7. International Organization for Standardization-ISO

These organizations publish industry-wide standards or “commonly

agreed on aid for communication and trade; a set of characteristics or
procedures that provide a basis for resource and production decisions; a
product that meets all specifications and company or product
requirements” (Kadolph, 2007, p. 551).
 Course Code: TE- 4401
Course Name: Advanced Apparel Manufacturing Engineering-I
Credits: 03

Course Instructor
Forkan Sarker, Ph.D
UN Fellow, Commonwealth Scholar
Ph.D in Materials(The University of Manchester,UK)
MSc in Advanced Materials (University of Bolton, UK )
B.Sc. in Textile Technology (Dhaka University),
Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Engineering
Dhaka University of Engineering and Technology, Gazipur
 Lecture-2
(Introduction to quality control in apparel industry)
 Quality assurance
Quality assurance is the “process of designing, producing,
evaluating, and assessing products to determine that they meet
the desired quality level for a company’s target market” (Kadolph,
2007, p. 6).
 Quality control
Quality control is generally understood as assessing for quality after
products have already been manufactured and sorted into
acceptable and unacceptable categories.
 Quality
Quality is a multifaceted concept that describes how well a service,
process, material, or product possesses desired intangible or physical
attributes (Kadolph, 2007).

Quality -actually the ultimate customer satisfaction towards a product.

Quality requirement in apparel industry
1. Understanding the customers' quality requirements.

•Collect Direct Feedback from

Your Customers. Customer feedback is one of the easiest ways
to find out what your customers like, want, and dislike. ...
•Keep a Close Eye On Your Competitors. ...
•Create a “Customer Needs Statement” ...
•Plan How to Implement Customer Needs into Your Operations.
2.Organizing & training quality control department
3.Ensuring proper flow of quality requirements to the QC
department.
4. Ensuring proper flow of quality requirements to the Production department
•Establishing quality plans, parameters, inspection systems,
frequency, sampling techniques, etc..
Inspection, testing, measurements as per plan
•Record deviations
•Feed back to Production Department.
•Plan for further improvement.
 Establishing the Quality Requirements
• Getting customers specifications regarding the quality
• Referring our past performance
• Discussing with the Quality Control Department
• Discussing with the Production Department
• Giving the Feed Back to the customers
• Receiving the revised quality requirements from the
customers
• Accepting the quality parameters
 Aspects of quality

•Good Design- Looks and style

•Good functionality- it does the job well
• Reliable- acceptable level of breakdowns or failure
•Consistency
•Durable- lasts as long as it should
• Good after sales service
•Value for money
 Advantages of quality control

With quality control, inspection is intended to prevent faulty

products reaching the customer. This approach 5 means having

specially trained inspectors, rather than every individuals being

responsible for his or her own work. Furthermore, it is thought that

inspectors may be better placed to find widespread problem across

an organization
 Disadvantages of quality control
A major problem is that individuals are not necessarily encouraged to
take responsibility for the quality of their own work. Rejected product is
expensive for a firm as it has incurred the full costs of production but
cannot be sold as the manufacturer does not want its name associated
with substandard product. Some rejected product can be re-worked, but
in many industries it has to be scrapped – either way rejects incur more
costs, A quality control approach can be highly effective at preventing
defective products from reaching the customer. However, if defect levels
are very high, the company’s profitability will suffer unless steps are
taken to tackle the root causes of the failures
 Quality Principles
“A quality management principle is a comprehensive and
fundamental rule/ belief, for leading and operating an
organization, aimed at continually improving performance
over the long term by focusing on customers while
addressing the needs of all other stake holders”

1: CUSTOMER FOCUS
2: LEADERSHIP
3: INVOLVEMENT OF PEOPLE
4: PROCESS APPROACH
5: SYSTEM APPROACH TO MANAGEMENT
6: CONTINUAL IMPROVEMENT
7: FACTUAL APPROACH TO DECISION MAKING
8: MUTUALLY BENEFICIAL SUPPLIER RELATIONS
Organisations who are monitoring the quality in the apparel industry:
1. American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists –AATC
2. American Society for Testing and Materials-ASTM
3. American Society for Quality-ASQ
4. American Apparel and Footwear Association-AAFA
5. Textile Clothing and Technology Corporation –TC
6. American National Standards Institute –ANSI
7. International Organization for Standardization-ISO

These organizations publish industry-wide standards or “commonly

agreed on aid for communication and trade; a set of characteristics or
procedures that provide a basis for resource and production decisions; a
product that meets all specifications and company or product
requirements” (Kadolph, 2007, p. 551).
1. Why manufacturing of apparels moves from develop countries to developing countries?
2.
 Quality Management system

Quality Management System (QMS) is a set of interrelated techniques, measures and

management system designed to prevent defects from occurring or if they occur at
all. Countermeasures are adopted immediately so that they do not recur. QMS takes
recourse to preventive as well as remedial measures.

Fig. Quality Management system

 Quality Management System in the garments industry
A number of systems, measures & techniques are used so that only quality
goods are produced in the first place and defects do not originate at all. If they
occur at all, there must be corrective action so that they are eliminated in the
preliminary stage and would not reappear. QMS generally employs the following
measures, techniques the ensure that only quality good are produced:
• Inspect all incoming, in-process & final goods to ensure quality of
goods.
• Ensure that all patterns & grading of patterns are okay.
• Inspect marker and check if it is okay and within consumption.
• Inspect spreading, cutting & numbering.
• Ensure if relaxation time was given to knit fabric.
• Install in-line inspector in the sewing lines.
• Install Traffic Light Chart system or other system to monitor quality
in production line.
• Inspect 100% goods delivered from sewing lines.
• Inspect the table quality passed garments with Statistical Technique.
• Control reject goods so that they do not mixup with quality passed
goods.
• Control repairable goods, washable goods so that they can be double
checked to ensure quality
• Inspect goods with right equipment’s and in right conditions.
• Inspect ironing, folding.
• Make repeat inspection of garments prior to poly-bagging.
• Inspect poly-bagging & assortment.
• Final table inspection in conducted prior to shipment of goods.
• Impart training QA personnel so that they can easily identify defects &
understand the causes of defects.
• Impart training QA personnel on Statistical Methods.
• Make continuous improvement plans & implement them
 Total quality Management
This is one of the latest concepts of management that can ensure the highest
standard of quality and productivity ensuring good for all of the workers,
management and society. In this system, quality of management and actions are
ensured by assuring quality at all stages from vision, planning, purchase, store,
cutting, sewing, inspection, packing, administration, welfare, personnel
motivation etc. TQM envisages high work standard, work-environment,
managerial standard, motivation etc. Thus comes the concept of production
system with minimal or “zero de-fact”.
 Job description of Quality Manager

The quality manager is a very important official in a garment factory. Customer

satisfaction, reputation of the company, to a large extent, depends upon him. His job
description is given below:
1. He will install or maintain a right Quality Management System to ensure quality
of product;
2. He will ensure that the QMS is in place & working as envisaged;
3. He will ensure that the existing QMS satisfies the buyer;
4. He will look for ways of improving existing QMS so as to exceed expectations
of the customer;
5. He will ensure that buyer’s specifications are properly understood;
6. If there is any ambiguity/ confusion, he will confirm buyer’s actual
Specifications;
7. He will ensure that AQL of the company is properly maintained & exceeded.
8. He will ensure that all incoming, in-process & final goods are properly inspected
& documented.
9. He will ensure that all goods coming in the store are rigorously inspected for
quality & quantity;
10. He will ensure that Traffic Light Chart system of in-line inspection system is
installed & working;
11. He will install both preventive & remedial measures against occurrence of any
defect;
12. He is responsible for failure of quality passed garment;
13. He will ensure that all of his personnel are trained on their topics;
14. He will ensure continuous training of personal to enhance their skill;
15. He will ensure rigorous control of rejects;
16. He will ensure rigorous control of repairable & washable garments;
17. He will plan for year-wise improvement of quality;
18. He will prepare a quality manual for the company so that company’s quality
policy & procedures are known to all and implemented at all levels;
19. He will ensure that quality manual includes all policy, procedures, methods &
measures so as to unify actions;
20. He will monitor performance of suppliers of raw-materials;
21. He will have his personnel motivated.
22. He will ensure that supplier-customer chain in maintained in the production
process;
23. He will ensure that production commences only when worksheet approved
sample & swatch card are at hand.
 Inspection

Fig. Quality inspection

 TRAFFIC LIGHT CHART SYSTEM OF IN-LINE INSPECTION
This is a dependable modern system of in-line process inspection that can
demonstrate line quality visually. This system allows identifying defect at the
earliest stage of production and thus can offset increasing defect beyond limit. In
this system, every operator is provided with a traffic light chart in front of her, In-
line inspector checks the lot or bundle completed by the operator. This results in
early identification of defects, as less rejects are produced in this method, so the
company profits from this system. The operators also are benefited because they
have to rework less and can produce more.
 Composition of the chart:
Such a chart comprises four portions:
1. First portion displays main aspects of inspection of concerned
operation;
2. 2ndportion displays result of inspection through red, yellow &
green color system;
3. 3rd portion shows fault code.
4. 4th portion gives analysis of defect & remark (fault analysis &
remark)
 Usefulness of traffic light chart:
Traffic Light Chart is so installed in front of an operator that it is displayed to the all
concerned. So the operator, supervisor, floor-in-charge, quality controllers are aware
of the level of the quality of operations in the floor. This chart enables analysis fault,
identifies measures to rectify them. By using traffic light chart the following analysis
are generated.

1. Weekly Defect Levels:

This report shows number of inspection & defects per line per day, % of defects, etc.
2. Weekly Defect Rates:
This report shows weekly number of defects & rate of defects enabling analyses the
situation & thus eliminate causes of defects.
3. 7-Square Red Report
If 7 consecutive squares show red color in this report, this implies that there is serious
problem related with quality. So the situation should be brought to the notice of higher
authority. This report contains type of operation & defect, workmanship of operator,
time of occurrence of defect, etc.
4. Daily Highest 3 defects Report:
This report is produced in consultation with shell & lining inspection report as
well as Team repair level sheet. This report is submitted to higher management.
Highest defect operations are kept under 100% surveillance until they are
eliminated.
5. Team Repair Level Sheet:
All the defects occurring in an operation are displayed in traffic light chart. Line
inspector puts up all the defects occurring on a certain day in team repair level
sheet.
This report shows quality situation of a line.
6. Check List:
In order to conduct in-line inspection of shell, lining & final inspection, a clear
check
list is prepared so that line inspector can work with clear idea.
Fabric defects during inspection
Baggy:
A fabric which will not lie flat on the cutting table.
Bar:
Filling wise band across the full width characterized by a change in appearance from
normal color or texture of finish.
Barre
An unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually parallel
to the filling of woven fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric
Bowed filling:
The filling yarns or the color pattern having a curvature from the imaginary line drawn
straight between their extremities
Broken end:
A warp yarn missing for a portion of its length
Chafe:
An area where the fabric has been damaged by abrasion or friction
Misread:
A warp wise streak caused by the improper spacing of the ends across the fabric.
Mixed yarn:
A yarn that differs from that normally being used in the fabric.
Reed mark:
A warp wise streak caused by a damaged reed
Shaded:
The color or bleach is not uniform from one location to another
Shuttle mark:
A fine line parallel to the filling caused by damage to a group of
adjoining ends by the
shuttle. Also called box mark
Slub:
An abruptly thickened location in a yarn characterized by a softness in twist and more
or less of short duration
Smash:
An area where the fabric has been ruptured by the simultaneous breaking of a large
number of adjacent warp threads
Temple marks:
Small holes, wrinkles or bruises a short distance from and running parallel to the
selvedge caused by the temples holding the fabric to width during weaving.
Uneven finish:
The finish is not uniform from one location to another.
Wrong draw:
A departure from the continuity of the weave pattern caused by one or more ends
weaving in the wrong order.
 Fabric defects
Baggy:
A fabric which will not lie flat on the cutting table.
-Bar:
Filling wise band across the full width characterized by a change in appearance from
normal color or texture of finish.
-Barre:
An unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually parallel
to the filling of woven fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric.
-Balk:
An incomplete color pattern in a striped or plaid fabric.
Bias filling: The filling yarns or the color pattern not being at right angle to the warp
yarns.
-Bowed filling:
The filling yarns or the color pattern having a curvature from the imaginary line drawn
straight between their extremities.
-Broken end:
A warp yarn missing for a portion of its length.
-Chafe:
An area where the fabric has been damaged by abrasion or friction.
-Course end:
A warp yarn having a larger diameter than those normally being used in the fabric.
-Misread:
A warp wise streak caused by the improper spacing of the ends across the fabric.
-Mixed yarn:
A yarn that differs from that normally being used in the fabric.
-Reed mark:
A warp wise streak caused by a damaged reed,
-Shaded:
The color or bleach is not uniform from one location to another.
-Shuttle mark:
A fine line parallel to the filling caused by damage to a group of adjoining ends by the
shuttle. Also called box mark
Slub:
An abruptly thickened location in a yarn characterized by a softness in twist and more
or less of short duration.
-Smash:
An area where the fabric has been ruptured by the simultaneous breaking of a large
number of adjacent warp threads
-Temple marks:
Small holes, wrinkles or bruises a short distance from and running parallel to the
selvedge caused by the temples holding the fabric to width during weaving.
-Tendering marks:
Enlarged pinholes or distorted areas along the edge of the fabric caused by the
holding
of the fabric to width during finishing. Also called pin marks.
-Uneven finish:
The finish is not uniform from one location to another.
-Wrong draw:
A departure from the continuity of the weave pattern caused by one or more ends
weaving in the wrong order.
-Color run:
The color of one area has bled or superimposed on the color of another area.
-End out:
A warp yarn missing for the entire length of the cloth. Also called missing end.
-Fine end:
Warp yarn having smaller diameter than those being normally used in the fabric. Also
called tight end.
-Fuzz:
Loose or frayed fibers originating from the yarns of the fabric.
-Hard size:
An excessive quantity of size. Also called starch lump.
-Jerked-in filling:
An extra pick dragged into the fabric with correct pick for a portion of the width of the
cloth, also called lash-in, pull-in.
-Kink:
A short length of yarn spontaneously doubled itself. Also called curl, kinky thread,
looped yarn, snarl.
.
Job description of Quality Manager & Inspectors :
The Quality Manager is a very important official in a garment factory. Customer
satisfaction, reputation of the company, to a large extent, depends upon him, His job
description is given below:
1. He will install or maintain a right Quality Management System to ensure quality
of product.
2. He will ensure that the QMS is in place & working as envisaged;
3. He will ensure that the existing QMS satisfies the buyer;
4. He will look for ways of improving existing QMS so as a exceed expectations
of the customer;
5. He will ensure that buyers specifications are properly understood;
6. If there is any ambiguity/ confusion, he will confirm buyer’s actual
Specifications;
7. He will ensure that AQL of the company is properly maintained & exceeded.
8. He will ensure that all incoming, in-process & final goods are properly inspected
& documented.
9. He will ensure that all goods coming in the store are rigorously inspected for
quality & quantity;
10. He will ensure that Traffic Light Chart system of in-line inspection system is
installed & working;
11. He will install both preventive & remedial measures against occurrence of any
defect;
12. He is responsible for failure of quality passed garment;
13. He will ensure that all of his personnel are trained on their topics;
14. He will ensure continuous training of personal to enhance their skill;
15. He will ensure rigorous control of rejects;
16. He will ensure rigorous control of repairable & washable garments;
17. He will plan for year-wise improvement of quality;
18. He will prepare a quality manual for the company so that company’s quality
policy & procedures are known to all and implemented at all levels;
19. He will ensure that quality manual includes all policy, procedures, methods &
measures so as to unify actions;
20. He will monitor performance of suppliers of raw-materials;
21. He will have his personnel motivated.
22. He will erasure that supplier-customer chain in maintained in the production
process;
23. He will ensure that production commences only when worksheet approved
sample & swatch card are at hand.
 Quality control system in apparel industry

1. Pre-production quality control

• Fabric (comfort, color fastness and durability)
• Inspection of other accessories
Closures, interlinings, waistband , sewing threads
and other design elements
 2. Production quality control
Defects in spreading, cutting, assembly , defects in pressing and finishing
Fabric inspection
 Spreading of fabric
The objective of spreading is

1. To place a number of plies of fabric under the marker

according to the planning process.
2. in the colour required
3. correctly aligned as to length and width
4. at correct tension
 Limitation of Spreading

• 1. It requires strongly constructed tables usually with steel

legs and braced frames
• 2. Spreading itself is a time consuming process
 Remember
Spreading is no more than a sophisticated method of
material handling, it adds nothing to the manufacture of
garments. In conventional cutting rooms it is a
technological bottleneck.
 Requirement of the spreading process
Spreading must achieve a number of specific objectives.
1. Alignments of the plies
2. Elimination of the Fabric Flaws
3. Correct Ply direction
4. Correct Ply Tension
5. Elimination of Static Electricity
6. Avoidance of distortion in the spread
7. Avoidance of Fusion during cutting
 Static electricity
In spreading plies of fabric containing man made fibres, friction
may increase the static electricity in the fabric.
The spreader will experience in laying a ply neatly on top of the
others due to either attraction or repulsion of those plies
according to how they are charged.
 Method to reduce static electricity
• Change the method of threading the fabric through the guide
bars
• Increase the humidity of the atmosphere in the cutting room
• Arrange to earth the lay
 Method of Spreading
a. Mount the bolt on the machine
b. Pull the fabric to far end position
c. Position the fabric at the far end ( with our without weight
or pins)
d. Align the ply ( width on one side)
e. Cut the ply after each lay
f. Repeat this process from b-e until the entire bolt is spread.
g. Check ply count
h. Repeat a and then b to g till the decided number of ply are
spread
i. Mark the remnants of the bolts with length in meters and
bolt number and stack separately at the given place
 Fabric packages
1. Open fabric roll: The open fabric
roll is formed by the open 2. Folded fabric roll: Folded fabric roll or
width fabric which is used for package is generally used by a retail seller.
making woven garments

3. Tubular kinitted fabric roll: The

open fabric roll is formed by the open 2. Hanging roll fabric package:It is
width fabric which is used for used for both woven and knitted fabrics but
making woven garments especially for velvet or pile fabrics.

5. Folded fabric scuttled

 Things to remember while spreading
1. Mark the Splice Zone on the Spreading Table
2. Use Paper for the first ply in case the table surface is rough or when fine
fabrics are being spread

3. Identify the defects noticed in the fabric by means of stickers

4. Use lubricated paper for separating layers

To prevent scorching in the natural fibers ( coarse fabrics)
To prevent fusing in the synthetic fabrics
5. Ensure that decided number of ply count and height of the spread is
achieved.
6. Method of spreading
7. How to splice
8. When the required height of lay is achieved, place the marker on the
spread and secure it by means of brass pins on each pattern section.
 Splicing
• Splicing is a process of cutting fabric across its width and
overlapping layers in between the two ends of a lay.
• Splicing of lay is required some times to avoid faults found in
fabric into the garment components.
• Spreading of next roll starts from the splice mark
• Splice marks are marked on the edge of cutting table
 Lecture 8-9

Fabric losses during spreading

The percentages of various costs
that add up to the garment cost
are as follows
1.Raw Material cost: 50%
2.Direct labour Cost: 20%
3.Indirect Labour charges and factory
overheads: 30%

The cost of fabrics is 80% of the cost of raw

material.
 Fabric categories

The fabrics can be broadly divided into the following three

categories:
1. Tubular Knitted Fabric
2. Narrow open width fabric: The fabric width can accommodate
two body pieces. Maximum market efficiency can be achieved if the
number of smaller pattern pieces in the garment are relatively
more.
3. Wide open width fabric: This type of fabric is having a width of
1.5 meters and three body pieces can be placed in the width of the
fabric.
 Fabric Losses
During the cutting process two types of fabric losses
occur:
1. Marking Loss
2.Spreading Loss

Marking Loss arises due to the gap and the

nonuseable areas at places between the pattern
pieces of a marker. Marker efficiency indicates the
amount of marking loss.
Spreading loss is the fabric loss outside the marker.
 Fabric losses.
The various fabrics outside the marker are
classified into different groups.
1. End of Ply Loss
2. End of Piece Losses
3. Edge Losses
4. Splicing Losses
5. Remnant Losses
6. Ticket length Losses
 Continue….
1. End of Ply loss: The flexibility, limpness, extensibility along
with the limitation of the spreading machinery necessitates an
allowance of some fabric at the end of each ply. These losses
may be upto 2 cm at each end or 4 cm per ply.
The end of ply loss is 1-2% of the total fabric usage.
2. End of Piece(Thaan) Losses: In textile industry, fabrics are
produced and processed in different batches. This makes the
fabric ends unsitable for use due to marks or distortions
created.
The end of piece varies from 0.5-1% of the total fabric usage.
The loss is minimized if the average length of pieces that are
purchased is increased
 Continue….
3. Edge Losses: In normal practice during marker planning,
the width of the marker is kept a few centimeters less than
the edge-to-edge width of the fabric.
The marker is made according to the usable width of the
fabric. The usable fabric width depends upon the quality of
the selvedge, the consistency of fabric width, and also on the
precision of edge control during spreading.
Let the fabric edge-to-edge width is 100 cm, and the marker
width is 3 cm less than the fabric width. The edge loss is 3%. If
the fabric edge-to-edge width is 150 cm, the loss is 2%.
Thus wider width has other benefits besides improved marker
efficiency
 Continue….
4. Splicing Losses: Splicing is the process of overlapping cut ends ( the end of
one length of the fabric and the beginning of the other) of two separate
pieces of the fabrics so that the spreading is continuous. Splicing is necessary
as one roll of fabric is finished and the next taken into use.
Also during spreading there may be some objectionable fabric faults, which
make the product unsalable or substandard. These fausts are removed by
cutting the lay at the fault point and incorporating splicing position into
marker plans.
During splicing the splicing line should be so selected that none of the pattern
pieces contains the fault is incomplete.

The position of the splice lines also dependent on the quality of the fabric
being spread. If cutting out faulty material at the lay is a regular requirement,
it is vital that the markers are provided with clearly defined splice lines.

The splicing losses may vary up to the 5% of the total fabric usage.
 Continue….
5. Remnant Losses: Remnant lengths are produced
whenever companies separate different shades of
fabric pieces and lay up only complete plies.

Remnants are also generated when short lengths of

material are left over after the completion of the
lay, and are returned to the stores.

All remnants are put to one side and cut separately

 Continue….
6. Length Losses ( L Losses): Woven fabrics and
some knitted fabrics are sold by length. Each
fabrics piece is measured by the fabric supplier and
a ticket is attached to each piece indicating the
length for which the customer is invoiced.

In many cases the gross length and the net length

are marked in the ticket. This loss can be reduced
by inspecting the length of the incoming fabric and
reporting the fabric supplier in case of yardage
short
 Cutting room procedures
13 things to ensure while cutting
Knife guard should be adjusted according to the height of the lay.

2. The correct position of the blade, its sharpness and the reciprocating speed of the machine should be
ensued.

3. Cut the lay of fabric by propelling the cutting machine on the marking line with accuracy.

4. Projections for each pattern section should be provided to facilitate the sorter in numbering the cut sections.

5. Provide notches at appropriate places with required depth.

6. Mark the position of pockets, embroidery, logo etc. by drilling small hole through the lay with correct drill bit
.

7. Frayed, serrated, fused or scorched edges, ripped or pulled yarns, overcut and undercut should be avoided
while cutting.

8. On Bend knife machine, use ready patterns aided by appropriate fixtures for carrying out precision cutting.

9. Sections which need to be cut individually (e.g. checks to be aligned in the front panel) are to be respread
and folded by aligning the checks/stripes.

10. Use appropriate fixtures to ensure the matching of the folded sections.
11. Discard the cut scrap into the caster bins positioned near the table.

12. Tie the cut lay along the cut sections of the master marker in a bundle.
Lecture 08
 What is Cut to Ship Ratio in Apparel
Industry?
‘Cut to Ship Ratio’ is one of the key performance
indicators of a garment manufacturing company.
Here ‘cut’ means total pieces cut by a factory for an
order.

And ‘ship’ means total pieces sold to the customer

(buyer) of an order.
For example, a factory gets an order of 1000 pieces,
factory cuts fabric for 1020 garments (2% extra) and
ship equal to 1000 pieces or less/higher than 1000
pieces.
 Calculation method
Cutting quantity = order quantity (1 + extra
cutting percentage)

Ship quantity = actual pieces shipped to buyer

Cut to ship ratio = (Cutting quantity / Shipped

quantity)
 Reasons for measuring cut to ship
ratio of orders.
Some of reasons for measuring cut to ship ration
are
• To check how efficiently a factory processes its
orders
• To Benchmark factory performance in cut to ship
ratio
• How many pieces (in percentage) are kept as
surplus garments and analyse extra cost is
incurred in fabrics and labor cost
• Performance of the Factory Manager, General
Manager is measured by cut to ship ratio figure.
 How to measure cut to ship ratio of
an order?
To measure the this ratio following information are
required

• Order quantity: This information is available in

buyer's purchase order (PO)
• Total cut quantity: This information will be
available cutting department and production
report
• Total shipped quantity: This information is
available with shipping department and with
merchandiser
 Examples

Illustration: Suppose a factory received an export garment order of

10000 pieces of shirts. Factory cuts 2% extra shirts as buffer and
finally they have shipped exactly 10,000 pieces to your buyer.
Calculate cut to ship ratio for this order?
Solution: 2% of 10,000 pieces is 200 pieces. That means factory
cuts total 10200 pieces.

Therefore, Cut : Ship = 10200:10000 =1.02

 Fabric Reconciliation Procedure for
Garment Factories
Fabric reconciliation is a process that is used to do
fabric analysis. That means how the total purchased
fabric is used by a factory. What percentage of the
fabric is actually used to make garments, what
percentage of the purchased fabric is left after
shipment as dead stock, and how much fabric is lost
as wastage.
Fabric usage analysis is important because it cost
50-85% of total garment cost. we can plan for
saving fabric in future orders based on the current
fabric usage analysis.
 Normally, fabric reconciliation process is carried out by fabric
store or audit department. A fabric reconciliation report
normally includes following analysis
• Percentage of fabric used in garments out of total fabrics
purchased
• Percentage of fabric consumed in sampling and R&D
• Percentage of excess fabric (dead stock) after shipment
• Fabric waste percentage and lost during process
• Cost of the dead stock fabrics and waste fabric
 How to Make Fabric Reconciliation
Report?
Track following information against each order. Most of the information will
be available in fabric store and cutting department.
• Fabric purchased for the order. (In case you use stock fabric for an order,
add those fabric purchased fabric).
• Fabric issued for sample development and R&D
• Fabric issued to cutting department (based on estimated consumption)
• Fabric consumed by cutting department for order (based on actual
production average)
• Fabric issued for alteration and part change (From fabric store or use
cutting end bits)
• End bits and cutting wastage
• Fabric returned to fabric store from cutting department after shipment
• Physical accounting of the fabric stock in fabric store
 To have quick fabric reconciliation you need to set
standard operating procedure for this analysis. A
standard procedure may be as following.

• Fabric store is responsible to keeping record of fabric

issue/receiving against order no.
• Recording of fabric usage data at each stage by concerned
departments
• Submitting filled forms to the concerned person with required
information after shipping the order
• Fabric reconciliation to be carried out for each order by
responsible department
Example of reconciliation process
Analysis parameters In meters Percentage

Fabric used in cutting for the order 1153 86.1%

Fabric used in sampling/R&D 10 0.7%

Dead stock 130 9.7%

Fabric wasted/lost during process 46 3.4%

 Job description of Fabric inspector :
1. He inspects 10% of color wise rolls & records the result.
2. If there is any discrepancy in quality, 100% of the rolls are inspected
3. He inspects the rolls to identify general defects & shading if any
4. For general defects he will use 4 point system to penalize defects and will
accept
if penalty points are below 40 or otherwise specified by the buyer.
5. For shading problem, he will inspect the rolls rigorously, separate them shade
wise.
6. If spectrophotometer is available, he will inspect the rolls with it.
7. He will number each roll with 3 digit code.
8. He will document the result of inspection and send them to the appropriate
authority for onward submission to the supplier & buyer.
Job description of trim & accessory inspector [15]:
1. He conducts inspection of the trims for quality & quantity.
2. He conducts 10% inspection of the goods. In case of discrepancy he will
conduct 100% inspection.
3. He will document the result of inspection and send them to the appropriate
authority for onward submission to the supplier & buyer.

Job description of pattern & marker inspectors [16] :

1. He ensures that the pattern and its grading is OK.
2. That the marker is OK and within specified consumption.
3. He documents his inspection report.

Job description of inspector for spreading, cutting, numbering,

not binding [17]:
1. Checks whether fabric lay is correct;
2. Checks whether fabric lay height is correct;
3. Whether cutting is conducted correctly
4. Checks whether size & color wise bundling is done correctly;
5. Checks whether there is any defect in fabric, lining & interlining etc.
 Job description of line inspector [18]:
1. He ensures that all inputs are covered so that they do not stain.
2. He detects defects at needle point and at a very preliminary stage.
3. Checks if there are defects due to fault in machine, needle, thread or feed
mechanism etc.
4. Checks if right color & types of thread, button, zipper, lining, shell, label, logo,
etc have been used;
5. Checks if buyer’s instructions are followed;
6. Ensures that machines, tables, operators’ hand, floor are clean & free of dust &
dirt etc.
7. He checks all processes in a production line on random basis;
8. He marks defects on a specially designed chart (traffic light chart)
9. He identifies the highest 3 defects in the line
10. He identifies defect level, defect rate etc.
 Job description of table inspector [19]:
1. He conducts 100% inspection of all goods on an inspection table;
2. He checks the garments zone- wise
3. Checks all types of defects and rejects, defective garments;
4. Checks if there is any oil or, stain mark, needle mark, point up down etc.
5. Compares buyer’s specifications with actual garment quality;
6. Checks size specs rigorously;
7. Checks if right color & type of thread, button, zipper, lining, shell, label etc have
been properly attached;
8. Takes special care about major defects and defects in the most critical areas.
9. He carefully inspects issues about which there is special instruction of the buyer.
10. He passes goods, which conform to buyer’s specification
11. He segregates rejects and transfer them to the authorized inspector / quality
manager.
12. He keeps repairable & washable garments in separate baskets assigned for each
type.
13. He ensures that repaired & washed garments come to him separately for
reinsertion.
14. He ensures that there are a few category of separate baskets one group for
incoming sewn goods, one group for rejects, one group for washable garments,
one group for repairable garment & one group for passed goods. These baskets
should be easily identifiable.
 Job description of lot pass inspector [20]:
Lot pass is a SQC technique used on goods that underwent table inspection. This is a
reinforced inspection to ensure quality.
1. He takes a lot of good passed by table inspectors and counts the number of
goods in the lot;
2. He draws sample from the lot using a normal/ tight sampling plan and an AQL
of preferably 1.5%
3. He inspects the garments of the sample size;
4. If the number of rejects exceeds Accept # of the Sampling Plan, rejects the lot
to the table inspectors for re-inspection, otherwise accepts it.
 Job description of finishing inspector [21]:
1. He controls heat of the iron so that goods are not damaged by over heat;
2. He ensures that goods are folded as per standard practice or as per instruction of
the buyer.
3. Ensures cleanliness of finishing tables;
4. Checks for defects & rejects;
5. Takes special are about oil mark, stain mark etc.
6. He checks if puckering develops after washing or ironing of garments.
7. Inspects goods before poly packing
8. Ensures buyer specified assortment;
9. Ensures that finished & packed garment matches approved finished garment;
10. Ensures quality of packaging, side marks of cartons, etc.
 Job description of final inspector [22]:
Final inspector generally conducts pre-shipment inspection, which is often called final
inspection.
1. Ensures that the whole consignment (lot) is stacked at one place;
2. Ensures that samples are drawn from the lot on random basis;
3. He inspects each sample and records outcome;
4. He counts the number of rejects out of the sample size;
5. He compares it with that allowed as per inspection sampling plan
6. If number of rejects exceed allowable limit given in the Inspection Sampling
Plan, he rejects the lot. Otherwise accepts it.
7. Checks whether assortment matches buyer specified assortment;
8. He checks if poly bags, cartons, inners, etc are of specified quality;
9. He checks shipping mark & side marks, gross and net weight etc.
10. He checks if destination is correctly given
 In Process inspection [23]:
It must examine different parts of garments before sewing is called in process
inspection. There are so many facilities for inspection in every section of garments
industries from spreading to finishing. The aim of inspections is to reduce the time and
cost by identifying the faults or defects in every step of garments making. If defects are
identified in primary steps, these can be solved at a low cost. It was seen in a statistics
that, 15% to 20% operators are responsible for 65% to 80% defects of garments. That’s
why it can be minimized by in process inspection.
The following are the Steps can be taken in every step of garments making to gain the
desired quality.

Marker making:
It is a thin paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a
particular style of garments. It Gives Special instructions for cutting. It can be done
both manually and computerized method.
• In Computerized method all information’s are stored in the pre-fashioned data
file and an operator helps the computer to make the best choice.
• Marker width is taken according to the fabric width. Fabric spreading should be
done by taking the guideline from marker length
The following are the points should be considered before marker making:
• Fabric width must be higher than marker width ( ’’)
• Fabric width must be higher than marker length (1’’+1’’)
• When pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric, the grain line should
be parallel to the line of the warp in a woven fabric and Wales in knit fabric
where pattern pieces are laid across the layers, the line is kept parallel to
weft/course.
• All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid
down on an asymmetric fabric.
• Length of cutting table should be considered.
• Plan for garments production should also be considered.
 Fabric Spreading.
The following are the reasons for which quality of garments are hampered must be
considered:
• Correct ply direction and lay stability:
• Elimination of static electricity:
• Alignment of fabric ply
• Correct ply tension:
• Fabric must be flat:
• Elimination of fabric flaws:
• Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles:
• Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting :
• Avoidance of distortion in spread:
• Matching checks and stripes
 Fabric cutting:
The following are the points should be considered before fabric cutting:
■ Precision in cut i.e. the dimension of pattern and fabric parts is cut must be same.
* The cut edge should be cleaned
* Infused edge
* Consistency in cutting
* Support of lay
* Proper notch size. If is large in size, can be seen after sewing of fabric. Also there is
a great possibility of occurring in matching of patterns after sewing.
* Drill hole and size must be appropriate and will be placed in proper place. If it is too
small can be blocked easily.
 sewing defects:
* Needle damage: For example, thread drawn-off from the fabric or making of large
hole to the fabrics. * Skipped stitch
* Thread drawn-off
* Seam pucker
* Wrong stitch density
* Uneven stitch
* Staggered Stitch
* Defected Stitch
* Oil spot or stain
 seaming defects:
* Uneven width
* Uneven Seam line
* Not secured by back stitch
* Twisting
* No Matching of cheek or stripe
* No Matching of seam
* Unexpected materials are attached with the sewing
* Not sewn by matching face side or back side of fabrics.
* Use of wrong stitch type
* Wrong shade matching of thread
 Assembly defects:
* Defected finished components by size i.e. imperfect size & shape of finished
components.
*Imperfect garments size
*Use of wrong ticket
*Massing of any parts or predetermined design of garments
* Imperfect alignment of components (i.e. button, hook and so on) in proper place
* wrong placing or creasing of interlining
* Looseness or tightness of interlining
* Folding of any parts of garments that is seen to bad appearance
* Shade variation of garments
* False direction of fabrics parts in the garments
* Imperfect matching of trimming in the garments
 Pressing or finishing:
The process by which unwanted crease and crinkle are removed with the view of
increasing smoothness, brightness and beauty of the garments is called pressing. In the
Garments Industries it is called ironing. This process plays an important role to grow
attractiveness to the buyers.
The following are the matters must be inspected during pressing:
• Inspected for fused area or fused stain if any.
• Inspected for water spot if any
• Inspected for shade variation area if any
• Inspected for correct folding of garments
• Inspected for crinkle area and rough surface if any
• Inspected for stretched garments area during pressing if any
• Inspected for proper drying of garments area during pressing if any
• Inspected for proper drying of garments after pressing
• Inspected for crinkle area and rough surface of pocket if any
• Inspected for unexpected crease in lining
• Inspected for proper shape
This is also informed that, the temperature, pressure of pressing head and time during
pressing must be inspected
 Final Inspection
Final inspection process is Final quality audit in garments manufacturing, known
as "Final Audit”. A buyer QC or third party (independent) QC do final audit. Final
audit is a judgment that certifies a lot is shippable or not from buyer(customer)
end as per buyer quality standard. Final inspection result shows whole factory’s
quality performance. Final Audit room is very restricted, only buyer QC and
factory nominated 2 or 3 person allowed in room during Final inspection process.
PURPOSES OF FINAL INSPECTION:
Buyers can understand about the quality standard of the
merchandise being purchased.
Last opportunity to know the quality status of the
garments lot for both buyer & Supplier.
It is an important part of quality control activity in
clothing industry.
It is an obvious condition from buyers end to conduct the
final inspection.
 General requirements for final inspection
The following points should be taken care for the final inspection.
• Work area must be well lighted and the measuring table should be large
enough to hold the entire garment spread out flat and buttoned.
• Use a soft fibreglass ruler or a metal ruler that has been calibrated against a
rigid steel ruler.
• Cuts should be stored in the auditing storage area to facilitate the access of
the boxes for the auditor.
• Sample boxes must be randomly obtained. Cuts that are only partially boxed
are not ready for the final statistical audit and should not be audited until all
boxes are complete. Samples must be randomly obtained from finished sealed
boxes.
• Final Statistical Audits are done following a 4.0 AQL (Acceptable quality level).
• Auditors should establish a routine for inspecting garments in order to
eliminate the possibility of overlooking an operation.
• The auditor must be aware of the specifications of the garment.
• All operations must be checked in the final audit. Also, tacks, shading,
long threads, raw edges, skip stitches, and other defects must be checked.
• Garments with major defects are to be marked by colored tape and set
aside for repair.
• Detailed records should be recorded and major defects must be properly
recorded with their code.
• Cuts that have not passed a final audit or that have only been partially
audited should not be loaded on the truck.
• After inspection, the remainder of the garments in the box must be
counted and checked for size. The label on the exterior of the box must
reflect what is inside the box.

• Garments that have passed the inspection must be returned to the box in
the same manner that they were in when they were taken out. All repairs
should be set aside and marked.
• Detailed records of any defects must be recorded.
 SEQUENCE OF FINAL INSPECTION OF GARMENTS:

01. PACKING LIST VERIFY / COMPARE WITH P.O. SHEET:

Before start the final inspection we have to check the final status of the lot
with P.O. Sheet & packing list. Checkpoints are as follows:
a) Quantity
b) Color
c) Size
d) Packing etc.

02. INSPECTION PREPARATION:

To get the accurate result we must have well preparation for final inspection
are as follows:
A. REQUIRED FACILITIES ARE:
I) Sufficient space.
II) Sufficient light
III) Inspection table
IV) Clean, Noise free environment etc.
V) Helping hand
B. REQUIRED TOOLS & EQUIPMENTS:
I) Packing list
II) Measuring tape
III) Arrow sticker
IV) Marker pen
V) High light pen
VI) Weight scale
VII) Purchase order sheet
VIII) Quality specification sheets, measurement sheet
IX) Reference sample (approved sample)
X) Pick glass / counting glass
XI) Approved swatches
XII) Findings & reporting format etc.
XIII) Metal detector
XIV) Barcode scanner
03. CARTON CHECKING:
There are some important points to be checked during
inspection. Check points are:-
I) Quantity of carton (as per packing list)
II) Quality of carton:
a) Ply of carton
b) Size of carton
c) Strength of carton
d) Color of ctn. Etc.

lll) Shipping marks (As per Buyer’s Instruction)

a) Main Mark
b) Side mark
c) Merchandise description etc.
04. CARTON SELECTION:
From the total number of carton, we have to select sample carton and garment sample
will be picked from those carton. The methods of carton selection and points to be
considered are as follows:

A) METHOD OF CARTON SELECTION:

I) Number of sample carton = 𝑡𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑐𝑎𝑟𝑡𝑜𝑜𝑛 𝑞𝑢𝑎𝑛𝑡𝑖𝑡𝑦
Example: 100 carton = 10
II) Number of sample carton = 𝑡𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑐𝑎𝑟𝑡𝑜𝑜𝑛 𝑞𝑢𝑎𝑛𝑡𝑖𝑡𝑦x2

Example: 100 Carton = 20 Sample Carton

B) POINT TO BE CONSIDERED:
I) Color
II) Size
III) Randomly selection
IV) 1st and last carton should be selected.

Note:- During carton selection inspector must mark on the

carton.
05. PACKING AND PACKAGING CHECK:
Now we have to open carton from those
selected carton and check the packing methods
used for the lot and the packaging used whether
it is as per specification. Check points are as
follows:
A) PACKING CHECK:
I) Position of garment inside the carton
II) Inner carton / inner box.( if available)
III) Protector (top / bottom / divider)
IV) Polybag (Master / blister)
V) Assortment
VI) Quantity of garments

B) PACKGING CHECK:
I) Packaging materials (except carton) must be
checked with Approved swatches/ sample.
II) How it is used / location of attaching (check
with reference sample or buyer’s instruction)
06. SAMPLE SELECTION (SAMPLE PICKING):
For sample selection sampling plan should be followed and important points to be
considered and few related terms to be discussed are follows:
A. LOT OR BATCH SIZE: This means total how many pieces
inspector is going to check or inspect. (i.e. if you have been offered a
shipment of 600 pieces order quantity, the batch size of this shipment
will fall under 501 to 1200 pieces.
B. SAMPLE SIZE CODE LETTER: This code is indicative a range of
batch size. (Code 'G' means your lot size range is from 151 pieces to 280
pieces.

C. SAMPLE SIZE: It means that how many pieces will be picked up

for inspection from the total offered pieces (Batch).

D. AC (ACCEPTED): The number in this column denotes that if the

inspector finds up to that much defective pieces the shipment will be
accepted by buyer.

E. RE (REJECTED): On the other hand number in this column denotes

that if the inspector finds that much defective pieces or more than the
listed number, the shipment will be rejected (or asked to the
manufacturer for 100% inspection and re-offer for final inspection) by
buyer.
Example: Suppose you have been offered a shipment of 1000 pieces for

inspection. Select the range from table, it is 501-1200. Now from table you

have to select number of sample you are going to actually inspect. According

the above table you will select 80 pieces out of 1000 pieces. Now assume that

you are inspecting at 2.5 AQL. So, after inspecting all 80 pieces if you find 5

or less than 5 defective pieces will accept the shipment. And if you find 6 or

more than 6 defective pieces in 80 samples you will reject that shipment.
 Shirt inspection procedure
• Visually inspect the front of the garment for any defect.
• Check that the two sides of the shirt are the same length and evenly meet at the
bottom.
• Check that all buttons line up with their button holes and are properly placed. (Also,
make sure that the number of buttons is correct and that all of them are securely
attached to the garment.)
• Buttons should be checked for function (button and unbutton to ensure that no button
holes are too small).
• When checking short-sleeve garments, both arm holes must be checked for size.
• Pockets must be checked for shading, tacks, and placement. Crooked or uneven
pockets are unacceptable. Pockets of a patterned fabric must line up according to the
print. (A pocket set even slightly off can be very apparent when using a patterned
fabric.)
• Garments must be turned inside out and all seams must be checked.
• Three garments of every size must be measured. (Bust, sweep, collar, yoke, cuff, arm
hole, natural shoulder, and pockets must all be measured and compared to the
specifications of the garment.
 Sampling plan
Sampling is a statistical process, where a specified number of units from a lot or batch is
picked up for inspection. The units are evaluated either as conforming or nonconforming. If
the number of nonconforming units is less than a previously agreed number, then the lot is
accepted .Otherwise, the lot is rejected. This process is basically statistically inference,
where population characteristics are judged based on sample selection .Any sampling error
leads to business risk, either on the side of the producer’s or on the side of the consumers.

The Three most commonly used sampling

plans –
 Single sampling
 Double sampling
 Multiple sampling
 Single Sampling Plan:
A single sampling plan is the simplest and the shortest plan. Here decision is made
based on a single trial. A sample is drawn from a batch or The number of sample
units inspected shall be equal to the sample size given by the plan. If the number of
defective found in the sample is equal to or less than the acceptance number, the lot
or batch shall be considered as acceptable, If the number of defective is equal to or
greater than the rejection number, the lot or batch shall be rejected. This is
explained using an exemplary data below,
Let’s assume that a sampling plan states that-
Lot size N =1000, Sample size n=30 and acceptance number=3.
This means that the batch to be inspected contains 1000 pieces of products/units.
30 pieces of products are randomly drawn from the batch and inspected .If the
number of nonconforming units is found less than or equal to 3 pieces, then the
entire batch is accepted .If the number of nonconforming units is more than 3
pieces, then the entire batch is rejected.
 Double Sampling Plan:
A double sampling plan provides additional cushion to the producer, as producer’s
loss is more serious than that of a buyer. The number of sample units inspected
shall be equal to the first sample size given by the plan. If the number of defective
found in the first sample is equal to or less than the first acceptance number, the lot
or batch shall be considered acceptable. If the number of defective found in the first
sample is equal to or greater than the first rejection number, the lot or batch shall be
rejected. If the number of defective found in the first sample is between the first
acceptance and rejection numbers, a second sample of the size given by the plan
shall be inspected. The number of defective found in the first and second samples
shall be accumulated. If the cumulative number of defective is equal to or less than
the second acceptance number, the lot or batch shall be considered acceptable. If
the cumulative number of defective is equal to or greater than the second
rejection number, the lot or batch shall be rejected.
 Multiple Sample Plan:
This sampling plan is simply an extension of double sampling plan. This plan follows
the logic of accepting or rejecting a lot, which is totally similar to double sampling plan,
with only one difference in number of samples to be taken. In double sampling plan,
samples are taken maximum twice, whereas in multiple sampling plan, samples are
taken many times before a decision is taken, regarding acceptance or rejection. Similar
to double sampling plan ,an acceptance number and rejection number are specified .At
any sample ,if the cumulative number of defectives is less than or equal to the
acceptance number , the entire lot is accepted and no more samples are taken, or in other
way to say ,the process of sampling is stopped. At samples ,if the cumulative number of
defective is more than or equal to the specified rejection number , the entire lot is
rejected and no more sample is taken .The process of taking samples continues only if
the number of defectives is more than the acceptance number ,but less than the rejection
number, but less than the rejection number. The complete process is explained with an
example.
AQL Random Sampling Inspection:
The AQL random sampling inspection was derived from the mathematical theory
of probability and is based on the sampling plan defined in military standard 105D
(MIL -STD - 105D). This method constitutes taking random sample from a lot of
merchandise, inspecting them and depending on the quality of the sample
inspected, determining whether the entire lot is acceptable or not. The MIL - STD
- 105D (also BS 6001, ISO 2859,) provides the sampling plans; and these
determine the number of samples of be inspected in lot size, in addition to
indicating and the acceptable quality level (AQL) which represents the maximum
number of defects per hundred units that, for the purpose of the sampling
inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average.
In general cases the buyer will determine which sampling plan and what AQL
to adopt. The AQL 1.5 is applied when severe inspection conditions are
required on high-class expensive items. The AQL 2.5 is applied when textiles
of normal/good quality are involved. There are three types of sampling plans:
i.e. single, double and multiple sampling plans. Each sampling plan can be
performed at three levels, i.e. normal, tightened and reduced, depending on
inspection requirements and quality of the products. In the garments industry
generally single and double normal sampling plans are applied. Therefore
only examples of these two will be provided. The sample size code letter
table shows various lot sizes corresponding to a serious of code letters. There
are seven inspection levels, four for general inspection (Already mentioned)
and three for special inspection. For garment inspection, general inspection
level II (normal II) is normally applied.
Y ¼ Use first sampling plan below arrow. If sample size equals or exceeds lot or batch size, do 100%
inspection. [ ¼ Use first sampling plan above arrow. Accept/Reject indicates the numbers for
acceptance/rejection, respectively. • ¼ use corresponding single sampling plan (or alternatively, use double
sampling plan below where available). This table is a part of the Military Standard
MIL-STD-105 for garment inspection only. The full table can be viewed in the original standard.
Source: MIL-STD-105E/ BS 6001/ DIN 40080/ ISO 2859.
Example 1: In a single sampling if we need to inspect a lot size of

1500 garments, with an AQL of 6.5%, the following steps should be

followed:

1. The number of samples to be inspected for a lot size of 1500 ¼ 125

(Table 16.1)

2. The corresponding values at 6.5% AQL for Accept/Reject are 14/15. This

indicates, if the number of defective garments is 14 or less, out of the 125

garments inspected, the whole lot (1500) should be accepted. If the number

of defective garments is 15 or more out of the 125 garments inspected, the

Example 2: In a double sampling if we need to inspect a lot size of 1500

garments,

with an AQL of 6.5%, the following steps should be followed:

1. The number of samples to be inspected for a lot size of 1500 ¼ 80 (Table 16.2)

2. The corresponding values at 6.5% AQL for Accept/Reject are 7/11. This

indicates, if the

number of defective garments is seven or less out of the 80 garments inspected,

the whole lot (1500) should be accepted. If the number of defective garments is 8,

9, or 10, take another sample of 80 garments for second inspection (which makes

a total of 160 garments for inspection). The Accept/Reject values now for the

second inspection are 18/19 (cumulative). This indicates, the total (cumulative)

defective garments out of the 160 inspected should be 18 or less defective. If it is