INTRODUCTION TO FASHION & APPAREL

ESSENTIAL GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

SEAMS

ESSENTIAL GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

a. Assembly of cut parts to form a garment with applications of SEAMS & STITCHES. b. Fastening items and methods c. Additional interest on garment d. Application of decoration and or functional means (i.e.pockets).

ESSENTIAL GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

SEWN GARMENT is assembled by joining fabrics together with the application of SEAMS & STITCHES. A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three dimensional shape of a garment

SEAMS
SEAM CONSTRUCTION Categorised by the British Standards Institution (BS 3870 PART II: 1991, also ISO 4916:1991) The Stitched seams are divided into eight classes: Class 1 - Plain seam & French seam Class 2 - Welt seam Class 3 - Bound seam Class 4 - Channel seam Class 5 - Ornamental seam Class 6 - Turned hem Class 7 - Edge stitched seam Class 8 - Enclosed seam

SEAMS DESIGNATION
Each stitched seam is designed numerically by five digits: 0.00.00 0.00.00 0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-8; refers to the material configulation, 01 to 99; refers to needle penetrations, material configulations, 01-99.

SEAMS
BS specification: Stitched seams classification governed by following factors: are

1. Components in the seam - Minimum/total components within the seam, 2. Relative position of each component within the seam, and 3. Unlimited and limited width - Width of the component, which ends may either be 'unlimited' or 'limited'.

SEAMS Class 1 Formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of component over the other, these seams are produced with a minimum of two pieces of component. Each component is limited on the same end.

BS 3870 1991 Part II

Location of needle penetration of passage

1.01.01

Fabric configuration

1.01.02 1.01.03 1.01.04 1.01.05

BS 3870 1991 Part II

Location of needle penetration of passage

1.06.01

Fabric configuration

1.06.02

1.06.03

1.06.04

SEAMS Class 2 Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite directions.

BS 3870 1991 Part II

Location of needle penetration of passage

2.04.01 2.04.05 2.04.06

Fabric configuration

2.04.02 2.04.03

2.04.07

2.04.04

2.04.08

SEAMS Class 3 Constructed by binding the component edge with another narrow component. The seam produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on both ends.

BS 3870 1991 Part II

Location of needle penetration of passage

3.01.01

Fabric configuration

3.01.02
3.03.01 3.04.01 3.05.01

SEAMS Class 4 Two pieces of fabric are laid flat with their edges closing each other without overlapping. Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. Both components are limited on one end but they are put opposition to each other on the same level.

SEAMS Class 4

BS 3870 1991 Part II

Location of needle penetration of passage

4.01.01

Fabric configuration

4.01.02 4.03.02 4.07.01

SEAMS Class 5 A seam class decorative sewing on garments. for

Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component, with unlimited edges on both ends.

BS 3870 1991 Part II Fabric configuration

Location of needle penetration of passage

5.01.01 5.01.02 5.02.01 5.03.01

Stitching lines

SEAMS Class 6 Stitching work made on the fabric edges for neatening. Seams are produced with one piece of component. This seam has one limited edge on one end.

BS 3870 1991 Part II

Location of needle penetration of passage

6.02.01

Fabric configuration

6.02.03 6.02.07 6.03.04 6.08.01

SEAMS Class 7 A narrow piece is sewn to the edge of a garment part. Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end, and the other narrow one is limited on both ends.

BS 3870 1991 Part II Fabric configuration

Location of needle penetration of passage

7.09.01 7.09.05

7.09.02

7.09.06 7.09.07

7.09.03

7.09.04

7.09.09

SEAMS Class 8 Only one piece of component involved in construction the seam, stitches are applied on its edge/s. Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component with a limited edge on two ends.

BS 3870 1991 Part II

Location of needle penetration of passage

8.02.01

Fabric configuration

8.06.01 8.06.02 8.09.01 8.19.01

SEAMS
SEAM WIDTH and SEAM FINISH it affects the performance and appearance of the garment. Important points to be considered:

Fabric types
Bulk and weight 2. Fabric construction 3. Fibre contents 4. General stability 5. Stability of cut edges 6. Surface characteristics.

SEAMS
SEAM WIDTH and SEAM FINISH - it affects the
performance and appearance of the garment.

Important points to be considered:

Garment types
7. Caring Washing/dry cleaning & pressing needs 8. Life expectancy of garment 9. Performance expected of garment 10. Seam stresses and strains during wear