NEEDLE

 Needle is used to sew the fabric by thread.

Way of needle movement is related to:

 Seam strength.
 Seam appearance.
 Seam durability.

Functions of needle in the sewing m/c:

 To make a hole in the fabric without damaging the threads of the
fabric.
 To make a needle thread loop.
 To pass the needle thread loop through the loop or loops of the
looper thread.
Functions of different components of a
needle
 Butt: For setting the needle on to the needle bar or clamp.

 Shank: Upper part of the needle which is tied in the needle

bar and which supports the needle.

 Shoulder: Middle part of the shank and blade is shoulder. It

helps to make the hole of the fabric and strengthen the needle
blade.

 Blade: Longest part of the needle from the shoulder to needle

eye. In this portion, friction between fabric and needle is
maximum. Blade is gradually tapered to tip.

 Long groove: The long and thin groove between shoulders to

needle eye in the blade is called long groove. When the needle
penetrates the fabric with needle thread, needle thread takes
position in the long groove.
 Continued…….
 Eye: The hole present in the front of the needle is called eye. Eye
through which sewing thread is passed.

 Scarf: The groove of the needle above the eye is called scarf. Its
purpose is to enable the closer setting of looper to the needle.

 Point: The portion from the eye to the tip of the needle is called
point. Point should be different for different type of fabric.

 Tip: the last (extreme end) part of the needle is called tip. It helps
to create hole in the fabric during sewing.
 Classification of needle point
The portion from the eye to the tip of the
needle is called needle point.
Two types of needle point-
A. Cutting point.
B. Cloth point.
◦ Ball point.
◦ V – Point / set point.

A. Cutting point: Cutting point needles

are used for sewing of sheet type
materials like leather, plastic etc. In these
materials, there is no gap within the
structure. Three types of cutting points:

1. Wedge point.
2. Cross point.
3. Twist point.
 Continued……..
B. Cloth point: Cloth point / Round
point needles used for sewing
cloths. The point of cloth point
needle is round.
Two types of cloth points:
1.Set point.
2.Ball point.
 Set point: Set point needles used
for sewing woven fabrics.
3 types of set points namely:
◦ Slim set point: For sewing
densely woven fabric or top
stitching like collar, cuff and
pockets.
◦ Set point: For sewing medium
densely woven fabrics.
◦ Heavy set point: For sewing
buttons ( attaching buttons)
Continued……..
 Ball point: Ball point needles used for sewing
knitted garments.
Ball point needles are of 3 types:
 Light ball point.
 Medium ball point.
 Heavy ball point.
Needle size expression
Metric system (Nm):
Easy process, most usable, based on blade diameter.
Needle size = Blade dia in mm X 100
= 0.8 mm X 100
=80 Nm.
Singer system:
5, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17.
Needle system number more, needle coarser.

Relation between metric and singer system:

Metric no. Singer no.
55 7
65 9
75 10/11
80 12
 The effect of needle size
If the needle finer than thread:
 The thread can not pass easily through the needle eye.
 Thread can not set in long groove.
 Friction between needle and thread increases so thread
may break or burn.
 Friction between thread and fabric increases so high heat
produces. As a result, fabric will be damaged.

If the needle coarser than thread :

 Thread can pass freely through needle eye.
 Coarser hole in the fabric due to coarser needle. So fabric
may be damaged as well as seam pucker may be formed
in compact woven fabric.
Causes of damaging needle point
Needle heats with m/c parts specially throat plate.
Faulty fabric handling during sewing by m/c
operator.
Needle deflection during sewing.
Improper needle size selection.
Improper needle point selection.