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What is techpack ?

 A tech pack is all the instructions a factory needs to


create a specific style of the garment.
A “Tech Pack”  is a set of design or style sheets which
contain all the necessary specifications to construct a
garment or a sewn product for prototype or production
purposes.
Prepared by the designer.
Finalized in consultation with the merchandisers.
Then forwarded to the production department for the
reference and guide for bulk manufacturing of the order.
A Tech pack will contain:
Technical Sketch Form (Detailed photograph of the sample or
Roughly drawn sketch with details mentioned)
Fit Comment Sheet
Measurement Verification Sheet
Grading Sheet
Sample Size Sheet
Details of accessories and trims.
Patch labels, Main labels details.
Color details for each color combo.
Details of wash care labels or side labels.
Style Color Combination Form
Tech Pack description
Style Summary
Construction Sketch
Proto Sample
Sample Required
Fabrics/Trims and Construction Details
Graded Measurements - Standard dresses
Labels and Placement
Fit Evaluation Form
How To Measure Guide
Samples required in the Techpack
Prototype Samples
Sales Man Samples
Fitman Samples
Wash Test Samples
 Pre-Production Samples
PROTOTYPE (REFERENCE) SAMPLES
 Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is
confirmed to the factory based on proto sample only.
 Normally, buyer send proto sample request to 2-3 factories.
 The factory which submits the good quality and optimum price will get
confirmation from buyer.
 Proto sample are normally prepared in similar fabric if actual fabric is not
available.
 Substitute Trims can be used on proto.
 Factory need to submit at least 4 proto samples (quantity may change buyer
to buyer)
 If buyer does not approve the proto sample, factory needs to submit the 2nd
proto sample to get approval.
 Once proto get approved buyer asks to start working on fit sample.
Salesman Sample (Promotional Samples)
The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the
order from the retailers.
This stage of sampling is very important as the sales of
buyer depends upon this sample presentation, look, feel of
fabric is important.
The quality of the sample should be up to the mark of the
buyer; hence merchandiser should aware and make sure
that product development team is well aware about the
sample quality parameters.
FITMAN SAMPLES
 Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models
or on dummy and for approval of construction details.

 At this stage of sampling, buyer makes sure that factory understands


thoroughly the construction and quality details and standards. The sample
sent mostly in medium and large sizes mentioned by the buyer.

 The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to
be used for bulk production or sample yardage fabric is used.
The Fit samples are neither fully accepted nor fully rejected by the buyer, so the
buyer asked for revised samples (on the mentioned comments) to finally approve
the samples.
A few conversations and modifications are made in the design.
 
So the rework on the samples is done and “Revised Samples” are again
sent to the buyer for the approval.
After many modification in the design according to the buyer, finally the
samples got “conditionally approved” from the buyer.
Wash Test Sample
Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for
assessment of feel and handle of fabric after washing
of Denim, hence either at size set stage or PP stage
washing sample is sent to buyer for approval and
carry forward of washing program.
Pre-Production Sample
 PP sample is considered to be a contract between the
buyer and the factory.
The pre-production samples are garments that are
produced in the facility that is planning to manufacture
the bulk order.
 Washing, embroidery and printing should match to
actuals.The PPS should be an exact representation of what
you intend to ship as final product.
SHIPMENT SAMPLE
When style is being finished and packed for shipment, 2-
3 finished and packed pieces with all packing details are
kept for future reference. Shipment sample is kept by
factory merchants and buyer’s merchant. The approved
shipment is sent directly to warehouse
Cut order plan
Cutting room manager issues lays to satisfy two
requirements:

The targets given in the cutting schedule


The most economic batch size (economic cut
quantity)
Overview of economic cut quantity factors
Width of fabric Marker Type
Number of sizes

Contract details
MARKER UTILISATION

Fabric Properties Essential laying losses

Quality constraints ECONOMIC CUT Labour costs


QUANTITIES

Equipment constraints Material availability


Sewing room needs

Production rates Delivery deadlines

Disruptions
CUSTOMER REQUIREMENTS
Cutting plan example 1
The contract details are as follows
Size 10 12 14 16 18
Quantity 40 90 80 25 25
The constraints on lay dimensions are:
Maximum lay height = 50 plies
Maximum lay length = 4 garments marked
The limit of four garments marked may seem rather
contrived but it allows the concepts to be explained
more easily
 It is useful to determine the theoretical minimum number of
lays required to cut the contract:
Max no of gmts per lay is 4X50=200gmts
The no. of gmts required = 40+90+80+25+25
=260 gmts
There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays = 260/200 =
1.3
This gives a practical minimum of two lays to cut the
contract – the best that is possible
Lay 1

Lay 2

The contract details

Size 10 12 14 16 18
Quantity 40 90 80 25 25

The worked solution is:

16 18 12 12 Lay 1 – 25 plies

10 14 14 12 Lay 2 – 40 plies
Cutting plan example 2
The contract details are follows
Size 12 14 16 18
Quantity 100 160 120 60
the constraints on lay dimensions are:
Maximum lay height = 60 plies
Maximum lay length = 4 garments marked
Theoretical minimum no. of lays required are:

Max no of garments per lay is 4X60=240 gmts


The no. of garments required = 100+160+120+60
= 440 garments
There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays = 440/240
= 1.83

This gives a practical minimum of two lays to cut the


contract.
Lay 1 14 16 16 18 Lay 1- 60 plies

Lay 2 12 12 14 14 Lay 2 – 50 plies


Cutting plan example 3
The contract details are as follows:

Size S M L
Quantity 300 600 400

The constraints on lay dimensions are:

Maximum lay height = 75 plies


Maximum lay length = 5 garments marked
Theoretical minimum no. of lays required are:

Max no of garments per lay is 5X75 = 375 gmts


The no. of garments required = 300+600+400
= 1300 garments
There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays = 1300/375
= 3.47

This gives a practical minimum of four lays to cut the


contract.
S S S S S Lay 1- 60 plies

M M M L L Lay 2 - 75 plies

M M M L L Lay 3 - 75 plies

M M M L L Lay 4 - 50 plies
COSTING OF CUT ORDER PLAN –
MATERIAL COSTS ( Example 4)
You have received the following contract:

Quantity 1200
Size A B C D E
Quantity 120 240 480 240 120
Single gmt marker lengths (m) : 2.0 2.2 2.4 2.5 2.6

Other relevant information:


End allowance 3 cm per ply
Maximum number of plies 100
Maximum lay length 10 meters
Cost of the fabric is 3$
Cloth saving on multi-size or multi-garment marker is 5%
1. Determine targets:
Theoretical minimum no. of lays is a little more
complicated as the maximum no. of garments
must be inferred. Since the average length is
about 2.3 m per garment, the maximum
number marked will be 4
Theoretical minimum no. of lays = 1200/4X100
=3
Since quantities are not in multiples of 100,
three lays is an impossibility consequently,
the target must be four lays
2. Consider options
3. Make decision
A A E E Lay 1- 60 plies

B C C D Lay 2- 80 plies

B C C D Lay 3 - 80 plies

B C C D Lay 4 - 80 plies
4. Calculation of material

Marker for lay 1 (2.0+2.0+2.6+2.6) X 95/100 = 8.740 m

Marker for lays 2-4 (2.2+2.4+2.4+2.5) X 95/100 = 9.025 m

Ply lengths
Ply length for lay 1 8.740 + 0.030 = 8.770 m
Ply length for lays 2-4 9.025 + 0.030 = 9.055 m

Lay lengths
Lay length for lay 1 8.770 X 60 = 526.20 m
Lay length for lays 2-4 9.055 X 80= 724.40 m

Material costs
Total length 526.20 + (724.40 X3) = 2699.40 m
Total cost 2699.40 X 3.00 = 8098.20 $

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