La Palma, La Gomera and El Hierro
La Palma, La Gomera and El Hierro
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 C O N T E N T S
C A N A RY I S L A N D S
LA PALMA La Palma Lanzarote

Dublin United Punta del MudoPunta de las Maderas

Introduction 1 Ireland Kingdom Barlovento

Punta Cumplida Tenerife
Punta y Prois de Santo Domingo Garafía

La Palma, Llano Negro

Fuerteventura
Island of Beauty 3 London Los Sauces San Andrés La Gomera
Punta Gorda
Las Tricias

El Hierro, Roque de PARQUE NATURAL

Puntagorda los Muchachos DE LAS NIEVES El Granel
Island of the Meridian 14 2426
Caldera de Taburiente Puntallana Punta Salinas
El Hierro
Gran Canaria
Paris Tijarafe Tenagua
La Gomera, PARQUE NACIONAL DE LA
CALDERA DE TABURIENTE
Mirca Punta Santa Lucía
Miranda
Columbus Island 25 Las Nieves
Santa Cruz
France Los Llanos de la Palma
General information 36 Punta de Juan Graje de Ariadne El Fuerte
La Punta Breña Alta Playa de Los Cancajos
Cantabrian Sea Puerto Breña Baja
El Paso
Tazacorte
Tajuya Villa Las Mesitas
de Mazo
Las Manchas
Cueva de Todoque San Simón
Jedey
Portugal Puerto Naos Malpaíses

ico
ina

Ch
PARQUE NATURAL
tal

o
CUMBRE VIEJA a

lla
Tiguerorte
aC

Ca
Madrid Tigalate Punta de los Órganos t

de
an
eS

a
nt

iñ
El Charco Punta del Peligro d

Pu

ab
Lisbon ya

G
Pla
Punta de Poris Tazo LA GOMERA

a
nt
Pu
Agulo
SPAIN Las Indias Las Caletas
Alojera
Vallehermoso
Hermigua
Balearic Los Quemados
Fuencaliente de la Palma
Punta del Viento
Punta Majona
Islands Taguluche PARQUE NACIONAL PARQUE NATURAL
DE MAJONA
Teneguía DE GARAJONAY
Punta de GuinchoArure
Atlantic Ocean Mediterranean Sea Punta Fuencaliente Valle Gran Rey Garajonay La Laja San Sebastián
Ceuta Punta de la Calera
Chipude 1487
de la Gomera
La Calera
Melilla Benchijigua

Alajeró Las Toscas

CANARY ISLANDS Punta y Roca de Igualada
La Rajita
Lanzarote
La Palma
AT L A N T I C OCEAN Punta Falcones
Punta del Becerro
Playa Santiago

Tenerife Fuerteventura Punta del Guanche

Gran Canaria Roques y Punta de Salmor San Pedro Mocanal Tamaduste

La Gomera Guarazoca
Erese Valverde
Los Mocanes La Caleta
Tiñor Puerto de la Estaca
El Hierro San Andrés
Punta de la Dehesa
Frontera Las Rosas Primary road
Los Llanos Secondary road
Front cover: Printed by: Playa del Verodal Sabinosa
Los Llanillos Tigaday
Isora Local road N
Hermigua. La Gomera
Back cover: Text: EGRAF, S.A. Malpaso
Roque y Punta de la Bonanza
National Park
Agulo. La Gomera PROGESMECA D.L. M. 30755-2006 Punta Orchilla 1501

Las Casas Nature Reserve

Translation: Taibique Spa
Hilary Dyke NIPO: 704-06-071-5 EL HIERRO Cave
0 5 10 15 20 km
Published by: Nautical Sports Centre
La Restinga
© Turespaña Punta Restinga
Airport CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35
Secretaría de Estado Photographs: Lighthouse Tel. 914 167 341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2004
cartografiagcar@infonegocio.com
de Turismo y Comercio Archivo Turespaña Printed in Spain

Ministerio de Industria, Graphic Design:

Turismo y Comercio P&L MARÍN 2nd edition
 Introduction
This brochure has been designed to offer the visitor an
effective way of making the most of his stay as he discovers
the astonishing riches awaiting him in the western isles of
the Canarian archipelago, fragments of land anchored to
the ocean’s bed and caressed by a mild, benevolent climate.

El Hierro, La Gomera and La Palma form part of the

archipelago known in ancient times as the Fortunate Isles
because their steady temperatures and abundance of
exuberant landscapes were believed to be a gift of Fortune.

The three islands described here are blessed with fine forests
of fossil flora which became extinct in the Mediterranean
Basin thousands of years ago but are exceptionally fertile in
these luxuriant valleys. Although beaches are few and far
between and lack the splendour of those found in the
archipelago’s eastern islands, the visitor will be drawn to them
for their unassuming aura. The smaller islands belonging to
the Province of Santa Cruz de Tenerife are true havens for the
enjoyment of nature, deep-sea diving, starry skies,
backpacking, rural tourism… .

Hermigua. La Gomera

1

Cliffs. El Hierro
The inhabitants’ livelihood
depends strongly on farming
and cattle-breeding, with
produce ranging from the
famous Canary Island banana,
tasty tomatoes, succulent
avocado pears and scented
papayas to first-class wines,
palm syrup, silks, tobacco and
a local variety of cheesecake.
As El Hierro, La Gomera and
La Palma all have airports
with daily flights to various
European cities and the rest
of the archipelago, we can
reach these pleasant,
peaceable isles in a matter
of hours.
2
In geological terms, they are
the youngest, the highest and
the roughest. Each one of
them is like a tiny continent
with a range of microclimates
within the space of a few
kilometres. We might set out
one day in the rain to find
ourselves lapping up glorious
sunshine a few kilometres
further on. The vegetation,
just as varied, is reminiscent
of a patchwork quilt.
Although each of the islands
is different and has a
character of its own, they all
share in a close communion
with nature, tranquillity and
merry, deep-rooted
traditions.
It might be said that El Hierro
is a favourite with deep-sea
divers, that La Gomera is
ideal for lovers of adventure
sports and that La Palma is
the best choice for those who
prefer backpacking and
wandering aimlessly through
a natural environment.
However, the better we get
to know the islands, the
vaguer these clichés become,
for each island has its own,
overwhelmingly beautiful
landscapes and offers a host
of choices to ensure a
pleasant stay.
 L a Palma,
Island of
Beauty
La Palma is known as Isla
Bonita or Island of Beauty
among the inhabitants of the
other Canary Islands, who are
somewhat envious of its
flourishing greenery.
Renowned for its immaculate
skies, it is the location of one
of the world’s leading
observatories, built on the
island’s highest point, Roque
de los Muchachos. At night,
the visitor will be struck by
the unique way in which the
light from the observatory
softens the orange glow
given off by the towns. Like
Lanzarote and El Hierro,
La Palma has been declared a
Reserve of the Biosphere.
The island with the highest
altitude/surface area ratio in
the world, La Palma covers an
Santa Cruz de La Palma
3
area of 706 km2 and has a
maximum altitude of 2,426 m.
Geologically speaking, it is the
archipelago’s most recent
island and is the home of
the Teneguía, the symbol of
the archipelago’s last volcanic
eruption, which took place
in 1971.
Shaped like an isosceles
triangle, La Palma is the only
island in the Canaries to
supply its own water and the
only one featuring streams
and rivulets. As a result, its
soil is full to bursting with
rare flora in the form of 70
species endemic to La Palma,
104 species peculiar to the
Canary Islands as a whole and
33 species found only in
Macaronesia (the region
formed by the Azores,
Madeira, the Canary Islands
and Cape Verde). Its beauty is
such that it is hardly
surprising that the spine-
chilling cry of Vacaguaré,
meaning I’d rather die than
 History
The first inhabitants called
the island Benahoare. When
the Europeans landed on the
beaches of Tazacorte,
Tanausú, the last native king,
succeeded in warding off the
Castilians. However, he was
finally captured in the area
known as El Riachuelo, in the
vicinity of La Cumbrecita.

In 1493, the conqueror,

Alonso Fernández de Lugo,
Banana tree
brought La Palma under the
Crown of Castile and, on May
3 of the same year, founded
live anywhere else, should Santa Cruz de La Palma in the
have been born amid the Bay of Timibucar.
superb Caldera de Taburiente,
situated at the heart of the Failing to find underground
island. treasures like gold, silver and
precious stones, forward-
The landscape is studded with thinking Fernández de Lugo
huge banana and tobacco
plantations, alongside
orchards of almond trees Santa Cruz de La Palma
bedecked with the flowers
whose fruit is used to make
the exquisite La Palma
desserts.

Living in perfect harmony

with its traditions, La Palma is
such a hospitable place that
any visitor will always feel the
urge to return.

4

Wine cellar
opted for the cultivation of
sugar cane and the
production of honey and
wine in Valle de Aridane.
In the Europe of the period,
sugar was a highly-coveted
luxury and its production
required such huge amounts
of money that he encouraged
members of Spain’s lesser
nobility and Flemish and
Italian tradespeople to come
to the island, along with
groups of Portuguese
labourers.
Wine production grew to such
a large scale that La Palma
began to export to Holland,
France and Great Britain.
However, the island’s
prosperity did little towards
5
affording the inhabitants a
peaceful existence as the place
turned into a constant target
for pirates and privateers.
In 1553, the Frenchman,
Leclerc, better known by his
nickname, Wooden Leg, spent
10 days playing havoc with
whatever happened to be
lying in his way.
As for trade, once the Canary
Islands had come to form part
of the Crown of Castile, they
became an indispensable port
of call on all routes without
exception, especially for
vessels bound for the other
side of the Atlantic. The
islands became so involved in
trade with Spanish America
that it was necessary for the
authorities of Seville, which
held the monopoly in this
area, to send an inspector to
La Palma, the most important
island in economic terms. All
ships sailing back and forth
across the ocean had to call
here. Santa Cruz de la Palma
grew into the Empire’s third
leading port after Antwerp
and Seville, giving rise to a
major shipbuilding industry
which drew on the island’s
plentiful supplies of timber.
The shipyard, which remained
operative until the 1940s,
built handsome sailing ships
like La Verdad, admired at all
the ports of Europe and
America.
 banana-growing had spread
to such an extent that it is
now the mainstay of La
Palma’s economy, with exports
topping 130 million kilos.

The local economy is further

enhanced by goat-breeding,
a small tobacco industry,
winemaking, the cultivation
of avocado pears and a
burgeoning tourist industry.

Handmade cigars
Description
Situated in the northwest
The eighteenth century of the Canary Islands,
brought droughts and La Palma enjoys an average
famines and with them, the temperature of 20ºC. With a
end of the wine market.
As the century drew to a close
and the next one dawned, Caldera de Taburiente
many people emigrated to
Venezuela and Cuba, the
source of a good number of
the island’s traditions. The
close connections established
with these countries through
emigration still exist today.

In the nineteenth century,

La Palma started to produce
dye from the cochineal insect
that feeds on the prickly pear
cactus. The previously
abandoned cultivation of
sugar cane was revived while
the first banana trees were
brought to the island. By the
mid-twentieth century,

6
rugged, mountainous
landscape and an altitude of
more than 2,000 m, it is the
highest island in the world.
At the heart of the central
mountain chain lies the
national park, Parque
Nacional de la Caldera de
Taburiente, a sombre crater
with a circumference of
28,000 m and a depth of over
700 m. Considering the crater
to be of special significance,
the Benahoríes, the island’s
first inhabitants, made all
kinds of offerings to it in the
hope that it would not come
tumbling down and bury
them alive.
los Muchachos, we find the
Observatory, equipped with
one of the most
comprehensive sets of
telescopes in the world.
A number of discoveries have
been made on its premises.
Because of the excellent
astronomical conditions of
the perfect Canarian sky,
which is under legal
protection, the observatories
belonging to the IAC (the
Canary Island astrophysics
institute) have been classified
as an “astronomical reserve”.
Its doors have been open to
the international scientific
community since 1979.

When Alonso Fernández de On this island of contrasts, we

Lugo first set foot on La come across radically different
Palma in 1492, the island was landscapes, ranging from
divided into twelve kingdoms.
The canton of Aceró, Bosque de los Tilos
governed by the Mencey,
Tanausú, occupied the
territory of what is now
Caldera de Taburiente. It was
also the last stronghold of
the Benahoríe defenders.
In addition to boasting
spectacular scenery, Caldera
is representative of the
Canarian pine ecosystem and
its lush vegetation is home to
countless specimens of flora
endemic to the Canary Islands
and Macaronesia. On the
edge of Caldera, perched on
the highest peak, Roque de

7
robust fertility to utter arid
nakedness. La Palma is of a
splendid natural beauty
crowned with humid forests
of laurel, best exemplified by
Bosque de los Tilos, declared
a World Reserve of the
Biosphere by UNESCO. Indeed
it is the vegetation, spreading
across almost the entire
island, which strikes one most.
In addition to the groves
of Canarian pine, capable of Typical balconies
withstanding temperatures
of 900 degrees, the stretches
of banana plantations in San
Andrés and Sauces, along Along a shoreline of 130 km,
with the almond trees in El the sea washes up against
Paso, Tijarafe, Punta Gorda rocks and cliffs. Fortunately,
and Garafía, will immediately there is also room for beaches
engage the visitor’s attention. and natural bathing pools
It is also well worth taking the formed by lava, where crystal
volcano route, travelling over clear waters invite us to take
the rough skin of the gaping a dip. Charco Azul, La Fajana,
jaws that brought forth La Playa Nogales and Los
Spain’s youngest piece of Cancajos are strongly
land. recommended.

Beach, Los Cancajos

8
Plaza de España

At La Palma, the ocean’s The island’s capital, Santa

depths are inhabited by Cruz de La Palma, has always
shoals of multicoloured fish, been the sea’s disdainful,
not forgetting the unusual coquettish ladylove. Oozing
trumpet-fish. The seabed, as with a history of better days,
varied as it is beautiful, is a
maze of valleys of black coral, Calle Real
huge narrow canyons, caves,
arched cornices, ledges and
tunnels.

La Palma’s history is closely

linked to its geography, as the
visitor will find if he takes
the time to admire the
archaeological remains
awaiting him, like the
petroglyphs at Zarza and
the cave, Cueva de Belmaco.

9
Backpacking
the city is festooned in
colourful balconies while
Calle Real and Plaza de
España stand proud of their
Renaissance buildings and
mansion houses. According to
the local people, here we
have the opportunity to try
one of Winston Churchill’s
favourite cigars as we admire
the town’s historical and
artistic treasures.
Leisure
With a character entirely of
its own, the island may be
explored in a number of
different ways. Anyone
wishing to get to know the
10
island better will relish its
ideal conditions: nature in
its purest form, set off by a
benign climate. He will make
new, astonishing discoveries
at every step. Leisure is
inextricably linked to the
natural milieu of this lofty
island and to the throbbing of
its heart, from its immense,
unblemished skies, probably
among the brightest in the
world, to the limpid depths of
its sea. The visitor should
come with time on his hands
so as to experience the many
fiestas held throughout the
year. He simply takes his pick
from the vast range of
activities available to him on
this steep island of green,
anchored within the bounds
of Macaronesia.
The people of La Palma are,
by tradition, lively and
hospitable, as shown by the
fact that they have been
celebrating their most
cherished fiestas every five
years since 1680. After a
devastating drought, they
took the Virgin of the Snows
from her shrine, Santuario del
Monte, and had her form part
of a procession. This ritual,
held once every five years, is
followed by all the islanders,
who are joined for the
occasion by those who
emigrated to Venezuela and Dance of the Dwarfs
other countries. Danza de los
Enanos (the Dance of the Similarly, the calendar plays a
Dwarfs) lends a courtly, key role in La Palma’s
baroque touch to the exquisite cuisine. Each fiesta
celebrations, while parades has its own special dish or
such as La Pandorga and Los sweetmeat and, before each
Mascarones strike a more celebration takes place, the
casual note. pilgrims’ costumes, usually
extremely ornate, are
prepared with great love
and care.
Shrine to the Virgin of the Snows
La Palma’s handicrafts are
true works of art, to be
admired not only at the
island’s fiestas but also at the
Theme Centres, where the
visitor might care to buy a silk
scarf, for instance, or try the
local cigars, almond delicacies
and so on.

Venturing away from the tiny

villages scattered hither and
thither over the island, we

11
are greeted by the full
spectrum of nature’s marvels.
It is in the midst of this
setting that most of Isla
Bonita’s leisure activities may
be practised. Backpacking,
climbing, cycling and horse-
riding, to mention just a few,
are excellent ways of soaking
up the beauty of La Palma’s
landscapes.
The skies above Santa Cruz de
La Palma, Los Llanos de
Aridane and Fuencaliente,
ideal for flying, are the best
choice for those who enjoy
the thrills of hang-gliding and
paragliding and wish to get a
bird’s eye view of the scenery.
All these pursuits are on offer
at first-class clubs providing
courses and the necessary
equipment, along with
information on routes and
guides selected for their
knowledge of the area.
La Palma’s microcosm has a
wealth of surprises in store,
including incomparable caves
of volcanic origin that are a
potholer’s delight. Particularly
noteworthy is the cave at
Todoque, situated in the
municipality of Villa de Mazo.
Of a seldom-seen beauty, the
cave is kept in perfect
condition. Moving to the
coast, the waters surrounding
La Palma are simply another
world, of a charm beyond
12
description. The southern
shoreline and Fuencaliente
are absolute musts.
The island offers an array of
outdoor activities, giving us
the chance to acquaint
ourselves with its
multifaceted character.
A few handy tips
The visitor is advised to find
room in his 20 kilo luggage
allowance for a warm jacket,
especially if he intends to go
out at night, and also a light
waterproof garment for
excursions to the mountains.
To move round the island, the
local bus service (the guaguas)
covers the leading towns.
Timetables and routes are
available at the Transporte
Insular offices in Santa Cruz
and at the guagua station in
Los Llanos. However, visitors
are recommended to hire a
car or book an organised tour
so as not to miss any of the
island’s attractions. The road
network is in good condition,
although there is a host of
woodland tracks, most of
which are suitable for all-
terrain vehicles only. In Los
Llanos and also at the steep
riverbed known as Barranco
de las Angustias, visitors are
advised to park their vehicle
and take an all-terrain taxi to
cover the rough track leading
to the vantage point at
Los Brecitos.
Those on the lookout for that
extra-special gift will be spoilt
for choice on La Palma, for
here they will find wine,
cheese, mojo (a sauce made
from olive oil, hot red pepper,
salt, parsley and coriander),
honey, sweetmeats, jams,
rum, liqueurs and cigars.
The sturdy esterlicia is the
emblem of the Canary Islands,
while any of the handicrafts
(embroidery, silks, primitive
pottery, a variety of cloths,
basketwork and so on) will
make for a perfect memento.
All these articles may be
bought at gift shops, the stalls
at Mazo, the small rural
museums (Theme Centres)
and at the Handicraft Centres
belonging to the Inter-Island
Council. The star of local
13
cuisine is, without doubt,
confectionery, where
temptations include delicacies
made from brown sugar or
from gofio (meal consisting of
wheat, barley or cornflour),
honey and almonds, not
forgetting bienmesabe, a
sponge cake prepared with
almonds, eggs and honey, and
the unusual almond cheese.
For fresh fruit and vegetables,
the best idea is to go to the
markets at Santa Cruz and Los
Llanos and the stalls at Mazo
and Barlovento.
As for transport, there are
direct flights between La
Palma and leading European
and Spanish capitals. A
number of turboprops leave
the island daily for Tenerife
and Gran Canaria. The island’s
Tourist Office will be pleased
to provide information on all
the island’s facilities.
Confectionery
 ElIsland
Hierro,
of the
Meridian
Although some researchers
claim that the island’s name
derives from hero, meaning
milk in the language of the
early settlers, the Bimbaches,
no precise explanation has
been found as to why it was
given the name of a metal
(hierro is Spanish for iron).
One thing, however, is
certain: there is nothing on
the island’s surface or below
ground to remind us of this
cold, harsh element.
Because of its shape, El Hierro
looks like a rocking chair
perched on the Atlantic.
14
As we move inland, we will
be taken back into prehistoric
times by the giant lizards,
Lagartos Gigantes de Salmor,
basking in the sun at Fuga de
Gorreta and living like kings
in the terrarium at Guinea;
but nowhere will we find
anything even remotely
related to iron.
El Hierro is home to the
finest and largest coniferous
forests in the Canary Islands.
We shall also have the chance
to see the lajiares, the
archipelago’s most
fascinating lava fields.
The lava flowed with such
ease and speed that the
moving tongues became
petrified, forming chains as
they angrily made their way
down to the sea. Stories of
Roque de Bonanza. Valverde
Heather growing at Arenas Blancas
trees abound on the island:
trees sculpted by the wind or
pouring water forth, like the
mythical Garoé linden tree.
We shall hear stories of
virgins brought by the sea.
The jagged coastline of this
Reserve of the Biosphere was
carved out at whim by the
action of the volcanoes,
which, every now and again,
tempered their savagery to
form crystalline coves that are
a bather’s paradise. The
Nisdafe plateau is blanketed
by fields and meadows, while
El Pinar is flecked with fig
and almond trees. Here,
visitors will delight in the
eternal springtime so peculiar
to the Canaries and in the
fascinating yet austere world
15
of volcanoes to be found
elsewhere on the island.
El Hierro is a feast for
the eyes, the landscape
photographer’s dream come
true. Best covered on foot or
by bicycle, the island holds
no disappointments for
nature-lovers or those
in search of solitude.
Then again, if a good chat is
preferred, the local people
are great conversationalists.
The welcoming, whitewashed
homesteads mirror the
hospitable nature of the
residents. Gardens in bloom
the whole year round seem
to be enveloped in privileged
solitude as they bestow
nature’s coffer of translucent
treasures upon us.

The lighthouse at Orchilla
El Hierro, safe from madding
crowds, is the perfect choice
for those who want to get
away from it all and enjoy a
more select holiday. Only
those with a liking for
unspoilt scenery and the
tranquillity of sun-drenched
days will appreciate the
charm of this, the
westernmost of the Canary
Islands.
History
The lighthouse, Faro de
Orchilla, was built on the sea
of lava where astronomers
drew the prime meridian, the
border between darkness and
the known world. And so
things remained until 1883,
16
when it was moved to
Greenwich. However, even
today, El Hierro is still known
as the Island of the Meridian.
The island, small in size but
great in beauty, was first
visited by Mediterranean
seafarers who came in search
of slaves. When the
conqueror, Jean de
Bethencourt, reached the
island in 1402, its inhabitants
lived peacefully in an
undivided kingdom. Legend
has it that King Armiche was
persuaded by his brother to
submit to the vassalage of
the Norman lord. He had no
sooner done so than all the
inhabitants, including
Armiche himself, were taken
as slaves. Not long
afterwards, El Hierro was
colonised by peasants from
peninsular Spain who
promptly intermingled with
the original population,
establishing a solid feudal
system which would last until
the nineteenth century.
Although the primitive culture
disappeared, part of its
legacy is still noticeable in the
names of some of the villages
(Guarazoca, Tenesedra,
Timijiraque) and in the fog of
theories and mysteries as to
the origin of the early
inhabitants. Ethnologists’
hypotheses speak of
Mediterranean Cromagnon-
man, the megalithic cultures
of northern France, Saharan
Berbers, the Vikings and the
Phoenicians.
Within the island’s
archaeological patronage,
we find gems like the Julán,
housing the remains of a
Tagoror, or a place for
meetings of special
significance. Equally
interesting are the
inscriptions in Libyan-Berber
letters in the cave, Agua de
Isora, and at the ravines,
Cuervo, Tejeleita, La Candía
and La Caleta (Valverde).
It is also worth taking the
time to admire the cultural
heritage, especially the
artistic and ethnographic
riches to be found in churches
all over the island.
Circular Tagoror. Julán
17
Among the major sights to be
seen is Ecomuseo de Guinea,
on the spot where slaves
from the Gulf of Guinea are
said to have been made to
wait until they were
sufficient in number to be
transported to the American
continent. The tiny town of
stone houses was the location
chosen to re-create this
fascinating historical and
prehistorical ecomuseum.
El Hierro’s history is scarred
by water shortages and huge
waves of emigration to
America and the larger
Canary Islands. As a result, it
is the least-populated island,
with 36 inhabitants per
square kilometre. Since 1912,
the island has been divided
into two municipal areas,
Valverde and Frontera. At the
present time, the population
is becoming younger
(El Hierro has the highest
birth rate in the Canary
Islands) and is witnessing an
increase as emigrants return
to the island, attracted by its
economic boom.
Description
On January 22 2000, El Hierro
was declared a Reserve
of the Biosphere by UNESCO
on account of its natural,
cultural and scenic heritage.
This, the westernmost Canary
Island, possesses a broad
spectrum of ecosystems
which enjoy the protection of
the Canary Island Natural
Space Network. In proportion
to its size, it is the Canary
Island with the largest
protected surface area
(58.1 percent).
As far as conservation is
concerned, El Hierro’s
remarkable flora and fauna
are looked on as symbols of
the island’s identity. Such is
the case of El Lagarto
Gigante de El Hierro, a true
living fossil, and the forest,
Sabinas de la Dehesa, not to
mention countless endemic
species in danger of
extinction. The island also
boasts a number of
magnificent seabird
sanctuaries at Roques de
Salmor, Paisaje de Ventejís
and El Parque Rural de la
Frontera, where there are
two Special Areas for the
Protection of Birds.
The island’s inhabitants are
proud of their delightful,
immaculate beauty spots and
the identity of their culture,
both of which evidence their
stalwart resistance to the
assaults of development.
Mirador de la Peña. El Golfo
Natural bathing pools. Frontera
From the arid lajiares to the
volcanic formations in the
south and west, the visitor
might direct his steps towards
the fertile vineyards and
papaya, avocado pear,
tropical pineapple and
banana plantations of Valle
de El Golfo in the northwest,
passing through the thick
forests of pine and laurel in
the central area.
The island’s geography is
savagely rent by the
enormous depression of
El Golfo, forming a semicircle
of 25 km and faces stretching
up as high as 1,000 m as
they open into the sea and
isolate the fertile north.
The rest of El Hierro stands
at an altitude of up to
19
1,501 m (Pico de Malpaso)
in an overall area of just
four km.
The shoreline is bespattered
with sheer drops and curious
shapes, like those found at
Roque de la Bonanza. This
austere rock engenders
coves and natural bathing
pools, together with red-
sanded beaches like the
one at Verodal, where the
clear, refreshing water
possesses quasi-therapeutic
properties.
Although over 200 years have
passed since the last eruption,
El Hierro has more volcanoes
than any of the other Canary
Islands, with over 500 open-
neck cones and caves that can
Church, Iglesia de la Concepción. Valverde
only be described as
astonishing, such as the
volcanic pipes at the Orchilla
Lighthouse, the Diablo Cave
and the Don Justo Cave,
whose network of galleries is
more than six km long.
Valverde is the only Canary
Island capital not to be
bathed by the Atlantic Ocean.
Embraced by vegetation in
the shape of a half-moon
opening to the east, the city
is still pervaded by a solemn,
colonial atmosphere. It is
here, in this city of low-rise
buildings, that over half the
island’s population lives
and works, unimpeded by
traffic lights. The rest of
the inhabitants live on the
small homesteads scattered
here, there and everywhere.
20
Leisure
On El Hierro, the many
temptations for leisure and
relaxation have one thing in
common: the island is an
oasis for those in search of
rest in a natural environment,
with some adventure thrown
in. And so, as we admire the
meadows patterned with
orchards or crossed by royal
pathways, we might care to
go on a cycling or
backpacking tour or even go
potholing. Any visitor will
soon become immersed in the
excitement of making the
choice that suits him.
Another option is to see the
territory from above while
pursuing the thrilling
activities of hang-gliding and
paragliding. All year round,
the clear blue skies are an
excellent vantage point from
which to enjoy an overall
view of El Hierro’s geography.
As weather conditions are
unbeatable, there are a
number of first-rate clubs on
the island where first-timers
may receive some training
before taking to the air.

One of El Hierro’s greatest

assets is its seabed, a scene of
busy underwater life blessed
with high temperatures
throughout the year and
untainted by the hand of
pollution. There are over 25
diving sites, all with visibility
of up to 40 m. For those
wishing to explore the caves,
sunken ships and lava
tunnels, guided dives are
organised by numerous local
clubs. The most popular
diving area is Mar de las
Forest, Bosque del Fallal
Calmas, now an official
Marine Reserve, although
conditions off the coastal
towns of Timijiraque, La
Caleta and Tamaduste also
rank among the best,
prompting the council to
organise the Open Fotosub

Deep-sea diving

21
La Restinga
Isla de El Hierro competition.
In this undertaking, the
council has succeeded in
skilfully combining the
island’s sustainable
development with a care and
respect for nature.
Their appetites whetted by
the sea wind, the people of
El Hierro are past masters at
preparing various irresistible
delicacies. Following age-old
recipes, they produce the best
dried figs on the Canary
Islands, the Valverde
cheesecakes and prime-
quality cheese, made from
goat’s, sheep’s or cow’s milk
or all three together. When it
comes to meals, superb fish
dishes are prepared in the
coastal town of La Restinga,
while first-class regional
dishes may be savoured at
the Parador or state hotel.
22
The village of Frontera is the
place to go for true island
cooking, while at the tiny
hamlet of Echedo, home-
made culinary delights are
washed down with
delectable, locally-produced
wines. The visitor should
not miss the chance of a
good meal at the vantage
point, Mirador de la Peña,
designed by César
Manrique.
Wine has been made on
El Hierro since 1526. Today,
the top variety of grape is
the verijadiego, from which
excellent white wines
carrying an appellation
d’origine are made. This
variety accounts for 80
percent of the island’s total
grape production. The local
reds and rosés are also worth
trying.

A few handy tips
The only airport on the
island, Los Cangrejos, runs
daily services to Tenerife and
weekly services to Gran
Canaria, La Palma and La
Gomera. For those preferring
to reach the island by sea,
boats bound for the port,
Puerto de la Estaca, leave
Tenerife daily.
Visitors are advised to book
well in advance, especially at
the time of El Hierro’s major
fiestas, known as La Bajada.
When the fiestas are on –
once every four years – it is
practically impossible to find
accommodation.
One of the most appealing
places is the spa, Balneario
Pozo de la Salud, situated in
the vicinity of the village of
State hotel. Valverde
Sabinosa. The sulphurous
waters, declared as being fit
for public use in 1949, are
known for their mineral and
medicinal properties. In
addition to an impressive
parador, the island has
delightful spots awaiting us
on the coast and inland,
where those keen on rural
tourism will be in their
element.
To see the island at its best,
the visitor should be guided
by the calendar of popular
fiestas, when all the splendour
of El Hierro’s cultural riches
comes to the fore.
As for handicrafts, the people
of El Hierro make sturdy
wicker baskets of all shapes
and sizes. The island’s leading
potters are to be found in
Valverde while some of the
women still spin by hand and
weave on rudimentary
Loom
wooden looms, using wool or
bits of fabric to make
bedspreads, blankets and a
variety of cloths. Wood from
mulberry, pine, beech and
chestnut trees is the most
popular raw material for
bowls, spoons, barrels,
chácaras, a popular Canarian
percussion instrument, and
special pegs used to hang
prickly pears.
During the summer, both the
Inter-Island Council and the
various local institutions
organise handicraft fairs in a
number of villages. The fairs
are usually accompanied by a
touch of merriment in the
form of music and folk
dancing.
24
The two museums at Valverde
house displays of local
handicrafts dating back to
the earliest times, while the
handicraft centre at the
ethnological museum (Museo
Etnográfico Casa de las
Quinteras), also in Valverde,
sells the wares produced by
most local craftspeople. Here,
the visitor will have a golden
opportunity to find out more
about the island’s handmade
articles, all guaranteed as
genuine.
 L a Gomera,
Columbus
Island
The origin of the name of
La Gomera is uncertain.
According to one theory, it
goes back to a North African
nomadic tribe named after its
founder, Gomer, a descendant
of Noah. Another theory
claims that the name is
connected with the Moroccan
inhabitants of Ghumera, in
the mountains of Er Rif. One
thing, however, is true: ever
since Admiral Columbus set
sail for the New World, the
island, with its serrated
coastline of irresistible
beaches, has also been
known as Isla Columbina, or
Columbus Island.
Admiral Columbus was drawn
to this coastline for two
reasons: the Bay of San
Sebastián and, more
importantly, the Trade Winds
blowing westwards between
La Gomera and El Hierro.
25
In his very first great voyage
into the unknown, he
stopped here to collect
provisions of water, firewood
and, above all, meat, in
addition to other supplies,
including plants and animals.
La Gomera’s diameter
measures a bare 27 km. Its
landscape is speckled with
exuberant palm trees, laurel
forests and exotic black
beaches washed by calm,
transparent waters. But we
discover the true beauty and
magic of this circular island in
the national park, Parque
Nacional de Garajonay,
named after the sweethearts
whose love, according to the
shamans’ prediction, was
doomed to be impossible.
Gara, daughter of the King
and Queen of La Gomera,
and Jonay, Prince of Navaria
(Tenerife), preferred death in
the midst of this luxuriant
display of nature’s wonders
to life without each other.
As we contemplate La
Gomera, we are enveloped in
the ancestral beat of its
View of the Teide from La Gomera
Torre del Conde Hernán. San Sebastián de La Gomera
drums, its curious language
of whistles, its guarapo, made
from palm sap, and its
terraced fields, perched on
the sheerest of drops.
History
The earliest inhabitants were
tribes of shepherds from
different parts of the Atlas
Mountains in North Africa.
We do not know for sure
either why or how they came
to the island. These are
mysteries yet to be solved by
archaeologists. It is possible
that they came in waves over
a period of 20 centuries,
remaining isolated
throughout this time.
26
The fifteenth century
brought the Europeans and,
little by little, the original
population and the colonists
started to intermingle.
This miscegenation process
gained greater impetus from
the seventeenth century
onwards. The old inhabitants
grouped themselves in
cantons (Ipalán, Orone,
Agana and Mulagua) and
worshipped the sun and
other celestial bodies. To pay
tribute to their divinities,
they would light bonfires and
perform other rituals on
mountaintops and other
prominent points (roques).
Today, we can still see traces
of the island’s culture as it
was then, handed down
through the centuries from
one generation to the next.
Of particular note are
the traditions related to the
rural milieu: the drum dance,
whistling, pole-jumping
and so on.
On La Gomera, it is difficult
to distinguish between
history and legend. One of
the key dates is November 25,
when the anniversary of the
Rebellion of the Gomeros is
held. The Lord of the Island,
Hernán Peraza, was put to
death by the indigenous
people because he broke the
pact of non-intermingling by
having an affair with the
native Iballa. The uprising
spread the length and
breadth of the island and was
so fierce that Beatriz de
Bobadilla was forced to take
refuge in Torre del Conde.
The harbour. Playa Santiago
27
In view of the situation,
Pedro de Vera, Governor of
Gran Canaria, was called to
La Gomera, where he led one
of the bloodiest onslaughts in
the history of the Canary
Islands. The Gomera leader,
Hautacuperche, was one of
the people killed in the
skirmishes.
Until the nineteenth century,
the islanders lived under the
suzerainty of Peraza and
Herrera. To a large extent,
their prosperity came from
the sea. The Port of San
Sebastián not only took
advantage of the fact that
vessels sailing to and from
Spanish America stopped in
the area but also afforded
them protection. According
to documents of the period,
the Court of Philip II was
aware of the importance of
the Port of San Sebastián for
Spanish vessels called at the
island during Christopher
Columbus’ first voyage to the
New World and also during at
least two subsequent ones.
History tells us of the
Admiral’s love affair with
Beatriz de Bobadilla, widow
of the Lord of the Island.
Prior to this, she had been
removed from the court by
Isabella the Catholic, who
suspected a romantic
involvement between Beatriz
and the king.
The Canary Islands had
always been a target for
corsairs and La Gomera was
no exception. Nevertheless,
the islanders succeeded in
warding them off by means
of lances and stones, as the
800 Dutchmen led by Admiral
Van Der Does would find
out when they were
overcome in 1599.
Description
Erosion has chiselled a series
of folds in the shape of a star
in whose centre looms the
majestic peak of Garajonay,
towering to an altitude of
1,487 m while its deep gullies
forge their way outward to
the sea. Parque Nacional de
Garajonay stretches out over
4,000 hectares, 10 percent of
the island’s total surface area.
Clad in mosses and lichens,
the picturesque tertiary
forests of El Cedro and
Mériga seem to fuse with the
clouds. Possessing the world’s
largest expanse of laurel
forests, this corner of the
earth has been declared a
World Heritage Site by
UNESCO on account of the
exceptional ecosystem
populated by species in
danger of extinction. The
island, one of nature’s gems,
has remained intact for
thousands of years thanks to
the area’s climatic features
Parque Nacional de Garajonay
Playa Santiago

and the respect the people of grandeur of the Teide and,

La Gomera have always
shown towards their natural
milieu.
At the Visitors’ Centre known
as Juego de Bolas (La Palmita,
Agulo), information of all
sorts about this fascinating
scenery is available.
Constructed in the traditional
architectural style of the
Canary Islands, the building
has an interesting
ethnological museum and a
well-stocked botanical
garden where all the local
flora are grown.
on a clear day, contemplate
the islands of El Hierro and
La Palma, poised majestically
on the horizon.
The archipelago’s second
smallest island is inlaid with
twisting, turning roads,
enabling us to savour the
landscape at its best as we
drive along to tiny, tempting
beaches like Santa Catalina
by the old fruit port of
Hermigua

It is from here that we shall

enjoy what is perhaps the
finest view of the Canary
Islands’ most imposing
volcanic pyramids. We are at
just the right distance to
admire the venerable

29
Hermigua, or tourist beaches
like Playa Santiago, Valle
Gran Rey and San Sebastián.
While travelling round the
island, we should listen out
for whistling sounds, used
through the centuries by the
shepherds of La Gomera as a
form of communication. By
imitating the language of
birds, they were able to send
messages over long distances
and today, whistling remains
as a living tradition, skilfully
mastered even by the local
children.
The circular territory is
guarded by an army of
150,000 birds known as
Phoenix Canariensis,
positioned at random on
boughs and branches.
Terraced orchards cling to
steep mountainsides while
farmsteads nestle safely in
Vallehermoso
the valleys. To the north
stands Hermigua, surrounded
by vineyards and banana
plantations; and, not far
away, Vallehermoso, with its
stone streets and astonishing
stone organs carved by the
action of the sea to reach a
height of 80 m.
To the west, we see Fortaleza
de Chipude and what is now
a leading tourist resort, Valle
Gran Rey, overlooking
beaches fashioned by the
volcano; amid them, the
fishing port. To the south, we
find Playa Santiago, a fishing
and tourist town with a wide
selection of accommodation
facilities and leisure activities.
Shared by the town of
Alajeró and the capital, Playa
de Santiago is just a few
minutes away from the
airport, which runs several
flights a day to Tenerife and
Gran Canaria.
Playa de la Calera. Gran Rey

Vying with the silence of the

distant countryside, the
hustle and bustle of the
towns might seem to be at
variance with the tranquillity
we seek when taking a few
days’ rest. The heart of San
Sebastián, the capital of La
Gomera and gateway to the
island, was once one of the
major ports for vessels bound
for the New World. Despite
the passing of time, the town
is still a dynamic, lively place,
Church of Nuestra Señora de la
ideal for recreation and an Asunción. San Sebastián de La Gomera
interesting conversation with
the local people. Close by the
Town Hall. San Sebastián de
central square is the town’s La Gomera
major sightseeing area, with
a fortress laden with history,
the symbolic Torre del Conde,
where Beatriz de Bobadilla,
the wife of Hernán Peraza el
Viejo, took refuge during the
uprising of the original
inhabitants of La Gomera.
Also worth visiting is the

31
Church of Nuestra Señora de
la Asunción with its Mudéjar
coffered ceiling. Admiral
Columbus is said to have
prayed here before setting
sail for unknown lands. To
finish, we should take time to
visit the Customs House, Casa
de la Aduana, and the well
where Columbus drew water
for the last time before
continuing his journey to the
New World.
Leisure
The relief of La Gomera
makes a perfect setting for a
wide variety of adventure
activities and indeed for
other, more leisurely pursuits:
backpacking, boat trips,
swimming in crystalline
waters and sunbathing on
one of the many delightful
beaches to be found on La
Gomera’s coastline.
The grand port, Puerto de
San Sebastián, fanned by the
sea breeze, is the point of
departure for boat rides
taking us all round La
Gomera’s shoreline, stopping
at captivating coves that are
ideal for bathing and diving.
At the Port of Valle Gran Rey,
trips are organised to the
area where whales and
dolphins dwell, while the Port
32
Backpacking
of Playa Santiago is the place
to go for excursions to the
impressive natural
monument, Monumento
Natural de los Órganos.
Then again, if we prefer to
get to know the local people
and part of their culture, we
should watch the bold
guarapo-makers as they climb
towering trees to draw the
delicious palm syrup, or join
in the open-air celebrations
like the popular pilgrimage,
Romería de Puntallana, held
in honour of the patron saint
of La Gomera, Virgen de
Guadalupe; or the fiestas of
San Marco in Agulo, where
leaves of the cypress tree are
burnt at the entrance to the
church in the belief that their
aromatic fumes will rouse the
island’s dormant magic.
Entertainment is also
guaranteed at dances and
sprees accompanied by the
ancestral beats of the La
Gomera drum, rhythmic
chácaras, a manner of large
castanet, and romances,
mediaeval stories that have
remained in the memories of
the island’s mountain
dwellers for five hundred
years. The summer calendar is
dotted with other major
festivities held in honour of
different virgins: Carmen in
Valle Gran Rey, Buen Paso in
Alajeró and Candelaria in
Chipude.
When hunger sets in, the
visitor should acquaint
himself with the island’s great
culinary tradition, where
typical dishes include
almogrote, an exquisite, hot
paste to be spread on bread
Desserts from La Gomera
33
or enjoyed with potatoes. It is
made from cheese, lard, oil,
garlic, pepper, salt and
tomatoes. For those with a
sweet tooth, palm syrup is
the best choice. Consisting of
a syrup drawn from the
Canary palm tree and then
boiled and thickened, it is
used to make delectable
desserts and cocktails or is
served with cheese or gofio.
In most of the villages, there
are family-run eating houses,
where we can try traditional
dishes like watercress potage,
served in dishes made from
the wood of the cypress or
aceviño; and cheese made
from the milk of three
Pre-Hispanic breeds of goat,
not to mention one of the
best home-made fresh
cheeses in the world.
Black potatoes or bonitas,
brought from the Americas
and grown on La Gomera for
several centuries, reach the
dining table in the form of
true delicacies and are served
with the Canary Islands’ most
prized fish, vieja.
As for sports, one of the
major events on La Gomera
is the regatta, Regata
Transoceánica Palos (Huelva)-
La Gomera, commemorating
Columbus’ great feat of
discovering America. The
island is also the ideal place
for a number of different
competitions, including
deep-sea fishing and
underwater video-filming.
It is also worth noting that,
because of the features of
the island’s rock formations,
mountaineering is highly
popular, attracting climbers
from near and far.
34
A few handy tips
For those preferring to reach
the island by sea, the crossing
from Los Cristianos, on the
south coast of Tenerife, takes
about 40 minutes. However,
for those in a hurry to reach
the heart of the island, the
well-run, picturesque airport
runs excellent services, with
the added advantage that
the view of the island from
above is far more impressive.
If we catch the boat at Puerto
de Santa Cruz on La Palma,
the journey lasts about four
hours, while the crossing
from Puerto de la Estaca on
El Hierro takes slightly longer.
By plane, it will take just less
than 20 minutes to reach the
only island in the world
where whistling is still used as
a means of communication.
Hotel by Playa Santiago
The best way to explore
Parque Nacional de
Garajonay is to book on a
guided tour at any of the
offices in the island’s
municipal areas. Bookings
should be made at least one
day in advance. Failing this,
the visitor will be in no
danger of getting lost if he
keeps to the park’s clearly-
signposted paths. At the
Visitors’ Centre, Juego de
Bolas, we will find plenty of
interesting information about
the island and Parque
Nacional de Garajonay.
Situated in San Sebastián, the
centre will let us in on all the
secrets of the island’s natural
treasure.
When it comes to
accommodation, there are a
number of pleasant hotels
and apartments of different
categories in Vallehermoso,
Valle Gran Rey and Alajeró.
Moving away from the towns,
we come across delightful
rural tourism facilities girdled
by the engaging scenery of
La Gomera. Nautical sports
centres are located in Valle
Gran Rey, San Sebastián and
Puerto de Vueltas at Playa
Santiago. This is the point of
departure for trips to the
waters where whales and
dolphins play, diving
Church, Iglesia de la Candelaria.
Chipude
excursions and pleasure
cruises right round the island
to admire the amazing
coastline. Other facilities
available at the ports include
diving clubs and schools,
along with bicycle and car
hire services for visitors of a
more independent nature.
La Gomera’s quaintest
villages are Playa Santiago,
the small fishing town
situated in the south, and,
moving towards the west,
Chipude, at the foot of the
superb natural monument of
La Fortaleza. Finally, a stay on
La Gomera would not be
complete without a visit to
the fertile terraces and palm
groves at Valle Gran Rey and
the picturesque hamlets of
Agulo and Hermigua.

35
 GENERAL INFORMATION
International dialling code % 34
TOURIST INFORMATION
TURESPAÑA www.spain.info
Turismo de Canarias
www.canarias-turismo.com
LA PALMA
Patronato Insular de Turismo
Avda. Marítima, 34
38700 Santa Cruz de La Palma
% 922 423 340 ) 922 423 347
www.lapalmaturismo.com
Tourist Information Office
Casa de Salazar. O’Daly, 22
38700 Santa Cruz de La Palma
% 922 412 106 ) 922 420 030
Airport Information Office
% 922 426 212
STATE HOTELS/PARADORES
Booking Office
Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid
% 902 547 979 ) 902 525 432
www.parador.es
Parador de La Palma
El Zumacal. 38720 Breña Baja
% 922 435 828 ) 922 435 999
TRANSPORT
AENA (Spanish Airports and Air
Navigation)
% 902 404 704 www.aena.es
Trasmediterránea % 902 454 645
www.trasmediterranea.es
Fred Olsen % 902 100 107
www.fredolsen.es
USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS
Emergencies % 112
Emergency Medical Service % 061
National Police % 091
Municipal/Autonomous Comm.
Police % 092
Sea Rescue % 900 202 202
EL HIERRO
Patronato Insular de Turismo
Doctor Quintero Magdalena, 4
38900 Valverde
% 922 550 302 ) 922 552 903
www.el-hierro.org
LA GOMERA
Patronato Insular de Turismo
Calle Real, 4. 38800 San Sebastián
de La Gomera
% 922 141 512 ) 922 140 151
www.gomera-island.com
Valle Gran Rey
Calle Lepanto, s/n
38870 Valle Gran Rey
% / ) 922 805 458
Playa Santiago
Avenida Marítima, s/n
38812 Alentejo
% 922 895 650 ) 922 895 651
Parador de El Hierro
Las Playas, s/n. 38900 El Hierro
% 922 558 036 ) 922 558 086
Parador de La Gomera
38800 San Sebastián de La Gomera
% 922 871 100 ) 922 871 116
La Palma Bus Station
% 922 411 924
El Hierro Bus Station
% 922 550 729
La Gomera Bus Station
% 922 141 101
Road information % 900 123 505
www.dgt.es
Citizens’ Information Service % 010
Post Office % 902 197 197
www.correos.es
Observatory, Roque de los
Muchachos. Guided tours
(ORM) % 922 405 541 www.iac.es