VOLUME 7

ISSUE 21

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We are from What We Were

Fashion gets a blast From the past
By DeBrINa aLIYah
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syrian couturier rami al ali incorporated the motifs of traditional arabian mashrabiya windows into works using modern fabric manipulation techniques laser cutting stiffened fabric.

ho we are today draws from who we were before, and significantly shaping who we will be in the future. Profound and philosophical something not usually associated with the supposedly frivolous world of fashion but on an intimate inspection, history is rewriting itself on the pages of style. A lot of what we see on the runway these days are presumed to be newer, funkier, edgier a product of new age designers who are constantly working to bring cutting edge trends and styles. But even in the most avantgarde of collections, there is always a hint of the bygone days and a touch of the designers origins and heritage. The recent revival of the feminine silhouette with shapes of peplums, tight bodice, fitted waist and the flared hip lines has influenced much of the spring and autumn collections of 2012. While modern contemporary designers are the ones who are bringing us the best of this trend these recent seasons, it was really the legend Christian Dior himself who pioneered the classic 'New Look'. As a step forward in forgetting the harsh days of war, Dior celebrated the female form by producing clothes that truly embraced

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two designers, elsa schiarapelli and Miuccia Prada from different eras and influenced by different art movements find a meeting point in 'impossible conversations'.

the definition of femininity. The New Look came and conquered in the late 40s, and now designers have drawn from history in revitalising the silhouette, perhaps to come out of the gloomy global economic recession. But even as Dior is hailed as the vanguard of the New Look, femininity and presentation is reminiscent of the Victorian and Belle Epoque eras where women wore full skirts with constricting corsets to achieve tiny waists. In the works of the legend himself, he too seems to have taken a cue from a bygone era. In the often quirky and eccentric collections of cult designers including Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela, and Opening Ceremony, it is hard to imagine that such futuristic creations might be linked to the past. While history may not be familiar with the bandaged mummy look (Comme des Garcon Spring 2012 collection), the sack tent dress and the oversized shapeless dress forms favoured by these unconventional designers has its roots in Cristobal Balenciagas early creations. While Dior accentuated the tiny waistlines post-war, Balenciaga focused on straight fluid cuts creating an almost cocoonshape that envelopes the body. The design that later came to be known as the sack dress, was flattering to all body shapes and became a pioneering alternative silhouette for a lot of the cult designers in modern day.

cristobal Balenciaga pioneered the alternative silhouette the tent dress that is much favoured by modern avant garde designers including Maison Martin Margiela.

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the New look created by christian dior postwar finds it modern contemporary in many runway collections of 2012 including this a/w 2012 look from carolina herrera.

And what could be better testament in intertwining the influence of old and new than this years biggest fashion exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art - Impossible Conversations. Miuccia Prada and Elsa Schiaparelli, two designers from two eras were put side by side to examine the parallels of design, craftsmanship, inspirations, shapes and embellishments which were uncannily similar. And even through vastly different ideologies, Schiaparelli was much influenced by Surrealism and Prada by Post-Modernism, the designers arrived at meeting points at different times in history. Regional designers go for heritage More evident in the creation of designers from this region is the unmistakable influence of the rich and mystical heritage of oldworld charms. The Arabesque elements of grandeur and opulence are vividly present in many new contemporary designs, something that is proudly acclaimed by the designers themselves. Doha-based designer Selina Farooqui emphasises the creative process that comes from her culture and past. We have all grown up around tradition, and our past definitely informs our future in everything, from the way we live to the way we design. I dont think we could design realistically for the future if we didnt know what has been done and was successful in the past.
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a peek into qatarbased designer selina Farooquis ss13 collection which incorporates influences of her heritage and traditions.

In her upcoming spring/summer 2013 collection, Farooqui plays the perfect old meets new theme in her textile choices. The collection incorporates beautifully rich and textural Indian silk brocades. These fabrics have been used in India for centuries. However I like to combine these traditional fabrics with colours and silhouettes that are more modern and trendy. In this particular collection, I used a more relaxed and easy silhouette with emphasis on light and refreshing pastel shades which are very much on trend. This creates an interesting yet subtle tension between the old and new, a perfect balance where neither one overpowers the other. Syrian couturier Rami Al-Ali, in his intricate and delicate works, incorporates subtle hints of his heritage onto his pieces through carefully thought out fabric manipulation processes. Motifs and shapes drawn from the visual experience of the Arab region like traditional window designs are worked into contemporary forms. Another significant influence is the traditional jalabiya design that has been reworked by many regional designers into the now wildly popular kaftan style. Big names like Sohad Acouri, Ezra

We have all grown up around tradition, and our past definitely informs our future in everything, from the way we live to the way we design. I dont think we could design realistically for the future if we didnt know what has been done and was successful in the past.
Santos and Nariman Zeidan have put their own touch of personalisation into the jalabiya and presenting them into fun and flirty kaftans. The tunic shirt that is a staple in many resort collections also finds its roots in the humble Pakistani salwar kameez. The straight cut shirt-like garment that drops slightly over the knees is part of a two-piece ensemble that makes the traditional outfit. And as these regional designers break into international markets, the little bit of old heritage goes with them into the future. And as we enter the autumn/winter 2012 season, there is definitely a blast from the past in what we will be fitting our wardrobe with. This season is nearly a complete 1920s new jazz age renaissance with luscious fabrics and mysterious style persona. The coming of age for fashion in the 'Roaring Twenties' entails a new freedom in dressing for women with many beginning to wear skirts and boyish silhouettes. Fashion started being accessible to women beyond the rich and privileged, something not too different with the current mushrooming of fast and cheap fashion trends. And now, we are embracing this trend more than ever, once again, referencing a past era in modern creations.
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URBAN NOMAD

GL AM FASHIOn
MArIAnA (leFT) sweater, coat, hat & shoes (h&M) trouser (the VaNitY rooM) scarF (Matthew williaMsoN at dados) scarF (stYlists owN) ISABellA (rIgHT) sweater, paNts & Belt (h&M) outer cardigaN (seliNa Farooqui) shoes (house oF harlow 1960 at the VaNitY rooM) clutch (saraYa at dados) Bracelets (daNa jewelrY) headpiece (dauphiNe oF NY at dados) turBaN (stYlists owN)

just BeYoNd the dustY steps oF the age-old cultural souq waqiF lies the desigNed VisioN oF a sleeK polished Future. al jasra Boutique hotel is the ModerN eMBodiMeNt oF the citY eNgulFed iN old world charMs. iN a citY oF traNsieNt NoMads MoViNg BetweeN the old aNd New, glaM captures the potpourri FusioN oF old traditioNs, cultures aNd ModerN aspiratioNs.
photography: roBert aLtamIraNo second photographer: aNgeL maLLarI fashion styling: CarLa maLLarI & VIera fItrIa hair styling: erIC pasCuaL & pIpo Corpuz of fraNk proVost saLoN Make-up: DeBI meNDez Models: IsaBeLLa haYCoCk & marIaNa tomaz Concept: DeBrINa aLIYah venue: aL Jasra BoutIQue hoteL, souQ WaQIf

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ISABellA (leFT) priNted top (peter pilotto at the closet) lace sKirt (seliNa Farooqui) headpiece/NecKlace (sarah reece) MArIAnA (rIgHT) priNted dress (peter pilotto at the closet) Faux Fur jacKet (h&M) hat (h&M) headpiece/NecKlace (sarah reece)

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dress (MarY KatraNtzou at the closet) headpiece/NecKlace (sarah reece) shoes (h&M)

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orgaNza aBaYa (hesa al Falasi at texture) jacquard dress (seliNa Farooqui) headpiece & earriNgs (dados) riNgs (daNa jewellerY)

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dress (saraYa at dados) paNts (curreNt elliot at the VaNitY rooM) Blazer (warehouse) NecKlace & riNg (sarah reece) headpiece (stYlists owN)

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ISABellA (leFT) top (warehouse) sKirt (Kage at dados) waistcoat (saraYa at dados) Belt (ella stoNe at dados) NecKlace (daNa jewelrY) headpiece (dauphiNe oF NY at dados) hairpiN (MisBehaVe at dados) BaNgles (isharYa at dados) Bracelets & riNgs (daNa jewelrY)

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MArIAnnA (rIgHT) sweater (warehouse) palazzo (caMilla aNd Marc at the VaNitY rooM) Fur waistcoat (elizaBeth & jaMes at the VaNitY rooM) NecKlace (raNjaNa at the VaNitY rooM) turBaN (stYlists owN) Bracelets & riNgs (sarah reece)

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dress (seliNa Farooqui) Bisht (dar trtr at texture) shoes (laYla asgor siYaBi) Beaded riNgs aNd Bracelet (daNa jewelrY) stoNe riNg (sarah reece) turBaN (stYlists owN) orNaMeNtal headpiece (dados)

52 / NoVeMBer 2012

By DeBrINa aLIYah

76 / NoVeMBer 2012

new-Age designer

the

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Riding on the new wave of digital entrepreneurship, Qatari fashion designer Moza Jay is one of the many young budding businesswomen in the country who has successfully built their own mini-online fashion empire. Working solely through social media and word-of-mouth marketing, M Jay Designs has garnered a loyal fan base who buys out her designs within weeks of release. We chat with Moza to take a peek into her latest collection and her experience of breaking into international markets. Tell us about M Jay Designs. M Jay Designs is basically my own style; simple, elegant and most importantly timeless. I had never intended to create a fashion brand but the tugging feeling in my heart continuously urged me to explore this passion. It all revolves around the concept of Less is More. I try to create dresses that I believe will compliment different body-types, and adhere to our culture. When creating my pieces, I make sure the design itself is timeless. So I can assure you that my pieces will last in your closet for a lifetime and will still be fashionably relevant. We often work with no more than two colours or two type of fabrics in any piece in order to focus on the design and craftsmanship. We feel that this combination helps bring out the elegance in our collection. What are the inspirations behind your new A/W 2012 Collection? I always draw inspiration from the refined works of legendary designers including Coco Chanel, Valentino and Carolina Herrera. These designers, in particular, are icons that I am pursuing to define my brand with. I love their works and their abilities in channeling the true elegance of a woman in their designs. The A/W 2012 collection is inspired by the 50s, a time where capes and long-sleeved dresses were fashionable. For the campaign shoot, we wanted a very natural and fun approach which was really well-captured in the photos. I asked the models to act as natural as possible without posing and everyone on set was laughing the whole time! These were the moments that I wanted to present. How is it like being a female entrepreneur in the burgeoning fashion scene of Qatar? I was worried at first but I was later pleasantly surprised when I discovered that many women were thrilled to find such a style in the market. The fashion scene in Qatar has revolved only around abayas and traditional gowns for quite some time and modern pieces were less sought after. This gap was one of the reasons why I decided to establish myself as a Qatari designer specialising in contemporary collections. You recently showed your collection in London at a private event. How were your designs received in that new market? I had previously stocked my collection at Jo LaMode Boutique (a multi-brand boutique in Royal Plaza, Qatar) and it was very well-received by clients. This prompted the boutique to extend an invitation for me to display a select few pieces in their trunk show held in London. The trunk show in London was an excellent opportunity and great leaping stone for M Jay Designs to grow and expand as a brand. We are now crossing our fingers and waiting for positive responses from international buyers who attended the trunk show. Some big buyers including Harrods and Net-A-Porter had shown interest in our works and it was an absolute honour. You operate mainly via Instagram and private viewings; do you think this is the new form of marketing and business model? How do you think this business model has an advantage over traditional brick and mortar models? Every entrepreneur needs to study their clients behaviours and tailor their marketing programmes according to their clients. For my generation, social media platforms including Facebook, Twitter and Instagram is a big part of our lives and it makes it so easy for me to reach out to them. These mediums are also instant. I think this is a great movement and it encourages entrepreneurs to explore and build their businesses at a very low entry cost. M Jay Designs is available via these social media channels Instagram: @M_JayDesigns WhatsApp and SMS: +97466100669 BBM: 21A917A7
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DeTAileD PeRfeCTiON
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the high-precisioN procedure to traNsForM Your eYeBrows iNto the perFect shape You craVe.

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SwArOvSkI MAnIcure

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sparKlY swaroVsKi Nails are seriouslY luxurious

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FeATHer HAIr exTenSIOnS

craFted FroM real Feathers to add the extra touch to Your hairstYle.

glow: prettY Feathers add pops oF color without a perMaNeNt coMMitMeNt

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choose FroM the Multitude oF colours aVailaBle aNd spice up Your riNg FiNger with a diFFereNt shade.

cAvIAr MAnIcure

glow: aBaNdoN BoriNg with these caViar Nails iN Bright FoNdaNt colors

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Nails are dreaMY while the edgY Yet elegaNt studs are guaraNteed to turN heads!

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