Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course

Stopping Your Dog From Jumping Up (Without Taking The Spring Out of Their Step)
Down Spot! Down Princess! Down Rover! Down Peaches! ... Down Comet! Down Cupid! Down Donder and Blitzen! I've heard that command many times, from many desperate dog owners, directed at many determined dogs. The jumping dog is a universal problem, but a better understanding of what's motivating the behavior can go a long way toward addressing it.

The Two Reasons Why Dogs Jump Up On People

First, and probably most common, is the jumping dog who greets this way. This can simply be from over-excitement - they "jump for joy." Dog behaviorists also point out that jumping behavior is partly instinctive. Dogs lick each others faces when they want to give a super nice greeting, a likely reflection of lower ranking members of a wolf pack licked the faces of the higher ranking wolves returning from the hunt. In addition, puppies in a den jump over one another for their mother's attention. More specifically, puppies target their mother's face, as a she typically regurgitates food for her litter, another reflection of the wolf pack.

Also, this behavior can be positively reinforced during greeting times, when a jumping dog is met by an excited owner who immediately praises, feeds, walks and/or plays with their pet after getting "jumped," so to speak. Jumping becomes part of this routine. It is rewarded and reinforced.

A second reason for jumping, which is less commonly the case, is that they may be trying to establish dominance. Dogs jump up on each other through what's known as "teeing off." In particular, they rest their head or paw (or both paws) on the shoulder of a dog they want to dominate and exert a bit of downward pressure. Because we walk on two legs, we're more difficult to tee off on, but the motivation is the same. The dog may be trying to express dominant status. In these cases, they often jump up once and more or less lean on you.

Identifying Dominant Behavior

It's important to identify this behavior by seeing it in the broader context of your relationship. First, realize that a disobedient dog isn't necessarily a dumb one. If they don't listen to you, and push and pull you around, they may have decided not to recognize you as their superior in the pack hierarchy (while still thinking the world of you as a companion!). Whether it's male or female, a dog that consistently jumps on you may be exhibiting one of many behaviors of the signs of Alpha dog. (Alpha dog behavior is something we tackle in the Secrets to Dog Training Bonus book, "Secrets to Becoming the Alpha Dog," and there's a full DVD devoted to the topic in our "Dog Training DVD Series").

If you suspect that the jumping is in fact an expression of dominance, then it is likely that your training will need to involve heavier corrections. This just means you might need to do more than simply ignore the dog while jumping and train them to Sit and Settle before getting your attention. For instance, water squirting, sharp "growling," or even forcing the dog down and holding them down until they are still are all corrections that will short circuit this behavior.

Some dog owners don't mind when their dog jumps up to greet them - it is a most a dramatic and flattering hello to say the least. And the last thing we want to do is convince our pets that they have no reason to be excited to see us. We don't want to take the spring out of their step, so to speak.

But when the same dog jumps up on others, such as other family members or friends, it can be awkward and even dangerous. A dog jumping up on strangers is always a bad look. The good news is a well-trained dog can learn to jump up only when "invited" to do so by its owner. This is fine for playtime for instance. But let's learn the rules before we break them.

Laying Down The Rules

During greetings, always try to prevent your dog from jumping up in the first place. Put your hand (or both hands) out in front of you and hold still. A trained dog will be able to respond to this gesture reasonably quickly with repetitions. As with any training technique, do not introduce any verbal commands UNTIL the correct behavior has been demonstrated. Only when your dog gets down on his own accord should you start using the "down" command to accompany the behavior. This is how they learn the command, by having the right action to associate it with.

For most, this type of prevention does not work right away, especially for puppies that lack enough formal training. You'll have to know how to react when your dog starts jumping up. Mostly, this involves knowing what NOT to do. For example, when you have a problem jumper, don't be over-enthusiastic during your greetings. This obviously reinforces the behavior. And do not forcefully push the dog away from you. They interpret this as a form of playful engagement. The result: dogs always push back. It's instinctive. The same principle is the reason for the majority of cases where dogs pull on leashes: they are encouraged by the force exerted on them.

Turn your back and ignore the dog. And calmly ask him to sit. When he has calmed down, and ideally responded to the sit command, then you can turn and greet the dog. If he starts jumping again, repeat the process. Be patient, this is where you get to send a message mainly through your body language, and the dog will surely take several trials to receive it. Often it is recommended that you stick your knee up and put the dog off balance, which is almost a reflex reaction. Turning your back and stonewalling is better if you can manage.

One of the absolute best suggestions I give is to always greet a calm dog "at its level." Squat or kneel down, and open your palms open toward the dog. This is a non-threatening posture that dogs very quickly associate will impending praise. We all like when others try to meet us on our level. Dogs are no different in this respect. But make sure they earn it first!

Avoidance is your best bet when introducing new people into your house. If you have established your position as the dominant member of your pack, then your dog should never be allowed to position himself in front of you when the front door opens. It's time for you to become the Alpha Dog if that's the case, which also means more training for you. It is good practice to give a calm and firm "stay Down" warning in advance just before you open the door for a visitor or let them into the house. Your dog will be responding to your sense of composure and assertiveness, and start to truly believe that there is no real reason to freak out every time the door opens.

If you have tried everything to get your dog to stop jumping up on everyone, short of removing its legs, I only have one more word for you. Exercise. I've said it before and I'll say it again, dogs need more exercise than we think they do, and if they have no other outlet for their energy, they will find one, and that may include jumping up and down on people uncontrollably. So keep those legs and lungs pumping. If you can't be bothered going for those walks, you better have a good arm for fetch.

That concludes the first installment of your Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course. Join me next time when I answer a question that has plagued dog owners since the beginning of time:

"Why is My Dog Ignoring My Commands?"

Until then,

Daniel Stevens Secrets to Dog Training http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/

P.S. Did you know that we've got a Special Offer for Subscribers to the Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course? (That's you). Check it out at:

http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/6day_special.php

Welcome to Day Two of the Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course

Why is my Dog Ignoring Me?

So your dog is ignoring you and you don't like that. Nobody likes being ignored. It even makes some people very angry. They are the ones that tend to get ignored even more as a result. It's quite common for dogs to ignore commands. Often owners give dogs very few reasons to listen and a lot of reasons not to. A typical scenario might go something like this:

An owner is calling to their dog to "come," the dog ignores them; they call louder and with more venom; the dog continues ignoring them; they start marching angrily toward the dog, clenching their teeth with all the determination of someone not willing to tolerate this degree of disrespect (especially in public); the dog begins to crawl reluctantly toward the owner, knowing their number is up; finally, the owner takes the dog forcefully by the collar, maybe even throws in a smack or two for good measure, and issues another reminder of who the boss is around here.

Words cannot convey how backwards this is!

This "technique" may eventually get a result, but it obviously goes about doing it in all the wrong way. In the short term, it stresses out your dog (which is to say nothing about the potential harm from physical punishment, which I assume does not need to be said to anyone subscribing to a dog training newsletter series). In the long term, this form of discipline establishes a relationship based on fear and threats, rather than a healthy serving of respect.

Your dog needs a leader, and needs to be able to recognize and respond to what we call "commands." But that doesn't mean that you should be "ordering" your dog around. We create short, simple, and direct "commands" for dogs because dogs don't speak English, not because they love to be ordered around in this way. Even though you need to be the top dog, you don't have to make everything sound like a threat to establish your position in the hierarchy. If everything sounds like a threat, you'll get nowhere fast.

We like to say that a dog disobeys commands mostly for one of two reasons:

1) They don't understand you.

Because dogs are responding more to your tone than the actual words you are using, if your tone contradicts your command, you may not be giving your dog a clear idea of what you want him to do.

For example, let's say you have a dog named Bob that jumps up on you all the time. If you say "Get Down Bob, get down" while at the same giggling and pushing him gently, almost playfully away, you have just communicated to Bob the following: "Get down" equals "this game is fun, let's keep playing."

I see this mistake ALL of the time with dog owners.

Another related mistake is the practice of asking a dog to do something rather than telling. So, if you say, "Bob, come here" in way that sounds more like "Could you please maybe come here please??? Then you are effectively giving Bob a choice. So tell Bob to come. You don't have to yell or demand, just make it clear that you mean business.

Also, make sure your commands are simple enough. If you are blessed with a dog who understands "Bob, bring me a beer from the fridge," then you don't have to worry too much about this one. Most of us, however, do. Keep your commands short and simple. Make sure they don't sound too alike.

Lastly, it is always much better to pair hand signals with your verbal commands. In the first part of this course on problem jumping, I talked about using a simple extended hand gesture to tell your dog to "stop" before jumping up on you. My adult dogs are all to the point where I mostly use my voice when I want to "talk" to them. But when I want them to DO something, I can make eye contact and use a hand signal to get them to come, sit, lie down, get in the car, go inside or outside, wait at the curb, etc. Ideally, you'll get to this point as well, but you need to establish those hand signals, and use them.

If you've worked through all of these possibilities and your dog still does not seem to understand you, then you likely need more training. For older dogs, there is the added possibility that the hearing is going, so do consider that if it applies. It's another case where hand signals can go a long way.

2) They are ignoring you.

When your dog ignores commands, it means they understand what you want them to do but are deciding not to do it.

But, you ask, how can you tell? How can you tell if your dog is in fact understanding the exchange but has no intention of obeying?

The answer depends a lot on the body language of your dog. If they are showing signs of fear when you are giving training commands (submissive posturing, avoiding eye contact, ears back, tail tucked), then it is more likely that they don't understand. In these cases, owners can make the situation worse by being more forceful. By contrast, if your dog is posturing confidently, and they do not appear stressed, then it is more likely that they have opted not to listen. They may even be defiant - making direct eye contact, even barking at you, and running away when you approach.

This suggests a dominance issue. You will have to take active steps to establish yourself as the top dog, in addition to being a fun person to play with. But there are also a few immediate steps you can take to have more success with a stubborn mutt. Let's return to that all too common scenario of a wayward dog and the heard but unheeded command to "come."

Always:

use a positive, happy, even excited tone of voice. try squatting down when calling. Open your arms as if to suggest an embrace or praise when they arrive. if you can, try walking the opposite way. This forces your dog to make a decision: Stay and get left, or go home with you and get dinner. Praise your dog whenever they come, no matter how long it takes. Praise your dog when they come to you without being asked. Create an environment in which they absolutely love coming over to you.

Never:

chase after a dog that won't come, unless safety is an issue. call your dog to you to reprimand them. call your dog over for something they clearly do not enjoy (getting their nails clipped, taking a bath, etc.).

One final word of advice: if you are still struggling with your position as leader of the pack, I highly recommend naming your next dog "Boss" "Come here Boss!" "Sit down, Boss!" "Go fetch Boss!" It's a most empowering remedy I assure you!

Well, that concludes the second installment of your Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course. Join me next time for a comprehensive newsletter on problem barking, where you'll find out how to get the final word with a barking dog that never seems to stop.

Until then,

Daniel Stevens Secrets to Dog Training http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/

P.S. Did you know that we've got a Special Offer for Subscribers to the Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course? (That's you). Check it out at:

http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/6day_special.php

Welcome to Day Three of the Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course

Dealing with Barking (or, Why Your Dog Doesn't Really Want to Bark All the Time)

In terms of evolution, you can say that dogs bark because we want them to. When we began domesticating dogs somewhere between 15,000 and 150,000 years ago, we saw the potential advantage of a very loyal and very vocal companion, so we selectively bred barking into domestic dogs from wild wolves, which don't bark. We also selected for all the sorts of traits we thought were cute, such as big eyes and flat faces. I'm not sure who was on the job when they decided "loud" should be in this category, but that's what happened. Vocal dogs were prized and thus their genes were privileged.

Consequently, certain breeds of dogs, such as those traditionally selected as watch dogs, are known to be heavy barkers. You should always consider the breed proactively when getting a new dog to possibly avoid barking related problems.

In any case, even when your dog seems to be barking at nothing, you can bet they're barking for something, even if they're only barking for your return. (Continual barking that kicks in after you are gone for 20 minutes or so and continues incessantly could be an indication of separation anxiety, a psychological condition that will require some extra attention and training).

Rule out the obvious first: if they start to bark toward the end of the day, they could be hungry. If they bark after being left contained for a few hours, they could need exercise (or perhaps a bathroom break). As many dog behaviorists stress, dogs are social, pack-oriented animals, and since you (and family) now comprise the dog's pack, you can expect your dog to make some noise if they are left alone for long periods of time.

Once you have ruled out the obvious, and given your friend enough exercise and attention, you can start to zero in on training a dog that is still barking. You should try to identify causes. Barking will be caused by either an external or internal stimulus. An "attention-getting"

bark arises from an internal distress. A bark meant to sound an alert arises from a passing person, or dog, or insect as the case may be.

You can address internal stimulus through training, such as either ignoring an attentiongetting bark until your dog settles, then rewarding his ability to quiet down, or holding your dog's snout firmly and asking it, gently, to "Shhh." Again, reward the right response.

In addition, you can often eliminate external stimulus through common sense. For example, I dealt with a dog that moved with its owner from a house with a door knocker to one with a doorbell. The dog was well-behaved and generally quiet. But the doorbell drove it into a barking frenzy. I suggested he remove the doorbell and ask visitors to "Please knock" by way of a small sign where the doorbell used to be. Problem solved.

If your dog barks "at you" immediately after you've given them a command, then you have some dominance training to do. They are talking back.

Nuisance Barking When You are There

When you need to curb your dog's barking, it can be a real challenge if the only time they do it is when you're not there. Often, these dogs need a training program that will not only address the barking, but possibly a general case of separation anxiety. However, you're in luck if they bark in your presence, as you can correct the barking with the right timing, correction, and praise. Dealing with a barking problem when you're there may also help prevent it from happening when you're away. There are several methods discussed, which each have varying degrees of merit:

Ignore, wait, and reward method. This is good for attention seekers, but you'll need some patience, and perhaps a good set of earplugs. The important thing is to reward them immediately after they stop.

The squirt gun method. I personally don't enjoy carrying around a gun (how un-American of me!) even if that gun is filled with water. It can be a hassle, and if you're not a quick enough

draw, it diminishes the effect. Note: a mixture of Citronella or water and vinegar solution (one part vinegar to eight parts water) can be more effective than straight water when using this approach. Aim for the chest, not the face.

The collar and leash method. Effective for dogs on lead that have been trained to respond to a tug and a corrective, "Uh uh" or simple "No." You may find it easy to suppress barking through the same means. This is a good method. But here's the absolute best and quickest:

Physical correction method. No, it is NOT the least bit violent, painful, or inhumane. When your dog barks, meet them at their level, firmly wrap one or both of your hands around the snout (don't shake it), and repeat your corrective command. I use a continual "Shhh" or a repeated "Uh uh uh uh." The idea is to hold on not only until they stop making noise (they obviously can't bark with their mouth closed) but also until they stop resisting the placement of your hand by jerking back or wriggling away. This method is effective also because it asserts your dominant role in the process.

Because it involves a physical correction, it may not be a favorite option for owners uncomfortable with this sort of interaction. But I can only emphasize that dogs are not children and they feel more secure with a clear idea of a pack leader they can trust.

Whatever method you choose, only repetition will do the trick. Never yell. It's like barking back at them. It just makes more noise. Though it's easy to tell your dog to shut it through an open window, it's lazy, and if your dog is barking because it needs to tell you something, even if it's just that they want a bit more attention, then yelling will upset and confuse them more. Expect more barking. As always, give praise when the barking stops.

All in all, you still need to allow your dog times to fully express themselves and their beautiful voice. It is not realistic that you always ask your dog to stop barking every time they start. In fact, this can have dangerous consequences if the dog needs to alert you to something but they have been discouraged from speaking up. Remember, if they are barking to indicate the arrival of someone trying to sell their Tupperware or their religion, let them go for an extra minute, and thank them after your visitor has made a hasty exit.

Nuisance Barking When You're Away

Ok, now it's time to talk about that difficult situation of a dog that only barks when you're away. Obviously, most problems with barking dogs result from dogs that don't have their owner around to quiet them down. In fact, the owner's absence in many cases is what's rousing the dog's vocal chords.

A lonely dog barking or whining can be a nuisance and difficult to address, but there are still some things you should be doing. Try to come home more often, or try to arrange for a friend to visit, ideally with their friendly and energetic dog. It may nip the problem right in the bud. Enough said.

If you know you've got a barking dog problem that has the potential to anger neighbors, a little public relations work can go a long way. If possible, ask your neighbors if there is a barking nuisance coming from your place and, if there is, tell them you're working on it. Then work on it.

You might also try staging a false exit. Walk once around the house or whatever it takes for your dog to think you're gone. When your dog barks, correct the behavior with a "Quiet" command (though your sudden reappearance will likely be enough to stop them anyway).

You can use special bark collars, that either use sonic or electric power to correct your dog. Other collars squirt a substance such as citronella when they bark, a scent they despise. I don't use them, and the ones I have seen in use were awkward and not 100 percent effective. But I stay away from them less because they train through discomfort (they do not harm your pet), and more because they displace the source of authority from you to some device that they don't really understand. Furthermore, they don't differentiate between acceptable - even necessary - barking on one hand, and noise pollution on the other. And that's not good. There's also a medieval-like procedure whereby the dog's voice-box is removed to render them barkless, or at least takes the bite out of their bark. This is abhorrent.

A better option for desperate dog owners is arranging some form of doggy day care, whether it's a professional service or a personal arrangement. Some dogs simply do not get enough stimulation during the day, and they will let the world know about it until they do.

And that brings us to the conclusion of part 3 of your Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course. I know I threw a lot your way, but hopefully the result, for you and your dog, is perfect silence.

Until then,

Daniel Stevens Secrets to Dog Training http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/

P.S. Did you know that we've got a Special Offer for Subscribers to the Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course? (That's you). Check it out at:

Welcome to Day Four of the Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course

Pulling on the Lead: a Better Solution

On any animal bloopers or funniest home video show, you are likely to find some sort of slapstick scene of a dog pulling on a lead. Often this will involve a very large dog and a very small owner. In the last one I saw, there was a family on a camping holiday that tied their dog to their tent. It saw something it wanted to chase. Enough said.

Dogs pull on leads as a matter of instinct. As hunting animals, they live for the chase. So often they pull because they are in pursuit of something (a cat, squirrel, or another dog). But there are other reasons that are just as common. It's possible that they are uncontrollably over-excited about their daily session of quasi-freedom. And it is possible that they see themselves as the dominant animal in your family. In this case, they see you as the one who is being disobediently slow.

Whatever the reason, the traditional method of addressing the issue of pulling on the lead is more or less the same. It involves a series of repeated interventions whereby:

1) The dog pulls on the lead 2) you stop, 3) issue a sharp verbal command ("uh uh"), 4) and a quick tug back on the lead. 5) You start walking again. 6) Repeat.

This training technique works eventually, provided there is enough repetition. But in the short term, your walks are not likely to be very long at all!

Another "traditional" solution to this problem is the use of choke chains and collars, a method that, thankfully, is now deemed to be unnecessary and outdated in the professional dog training community.

There are some innovative training techniques around to address the leash pulling problem. One that comes to mind in particular is the "random walking" method demonstrated by professional trainer Susan Morton in our Kingdom of Pets Dog Training DVD Series. The concept is brilliantly simple: a dominant or over-anxious dog can't pull on the lead if he doesn't know which direction he's heading, and if that direction changes often. You'll have to check out the DVD to find out exactly how to make it work for you.

There is more good news for dog owners who are tired of their dogs yanking their chain, so to speak. Leash and collar technology has advanced enough to offer dog owners a few alternatives to solutions to the pulling problem: head and harness collars.

Head and Harness Collars

When I started training dogs, head or "harness" collars were new on the market and all the rage. Premier Pet Gentle Leader Training Dog Collar and the Halti Training Head Collar are the two best known types of dog head collars, and are often discussed interchangeably even though there are slight differences in the design and they are made by different companies. Because I have used the Gentle Leader extensively, though not exclusively, in my own experience, I will focus on it.

What is it? As opposed to traditional dog collars that go around the neck, the Gentle Leader is a head harness that consists of a nylon nose strap and neck strap. The lead is atta to a ring at the end of a short strap that extends under the chin.ched

How does it work? Both straps are designed to have a specific function. The nose loop is intended to mimic the practice of demonstrating pack dominance between two animals by firmly taking a dog's muzzle in their own. The neck strap is intended to relax and calm the dog by mimicking the practice of a mother grasping her pups by the back of the neck. In addition, the strap applies pressure to the back of the neck instead of the front of the throat.

Dogs tend to respond to an applied force by exerting an opposing force, which is why they often respond to a backwards pull of lead with more pulling! The Gentle Leader is designed to reverse this behavior, and arrest forward movement when force is exerted on the neck.

Most importantly, the lead allows the owner to control the head of the dog, and - not unlike a horse's bridle - if you control the head you control the beast.

How effective is it? In my experience the Gentle Leader is extremely effective in correcting pulling, lunging, and jumping. I found it particularly effective with owners who like to run with their dogs, but need to keep them in line on populated paths and trails. It can be used to facilitate the basic obedience commands such as "sit" and "down."

Although the product information notes that the collar will stop unwanted barking (through a quick tug of the lead that closes the dog's mouth), I found the lead less effective in this regard.

Perhaps the best thing about this form of lead is that you are constantly training the dog without the need for constant commands. In addition, you are reinforcing your role as the leader. You stop, they stop, simple as that.

In the majority cases, owners who start with the Gentle Leader from an early age wind up going back to a straight lead after several months - or even have their dog comfortably off lead when they are able to. That's important, as it demonstrates how effective it can be as a training tool.

That's all from us for part 4 of your Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course. I truly hope that by sharing this information I have helped put the pulling problem to rest, and saved your dogwalking arm in the process!

Join me next time when we'll be getting tough on one of the most problematic behaviors a dog can have: aggression toward strangers and other dogs.

Until then,

Daniel Stevens Secrets to Dog Training http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/

P.S. Did you know that we've got a Special Offer for Subscribers to the Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course? (That's you). Check it out at:

http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/6day_special.php

P.P.S. Here's what some of our customers have said about Secrets to Dog Training...

Welcome to Day Five of the Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course

The First and Last Word on Dog Aggression
In this installment of your 6 Day Course, I'll focus on dog aggression that is expressed toward strangers and other dogs, both of which can be really stressful for dog owners and cause real problems. What you'll find out is that aggressive behavior is just as stressful for your dog, and it's actually your responsibility to teach him or her that the behavior is not only appropriate, but also totally unnecessary. Why is that exactly? I'll tell you. But first let's make sure we know what we're dealing with when we see it.

Signs of Aggression

Most people, whether they are dog owners or not, do not recognize the signs of aggression until it is way too late - until a full-blown dog fight starts or a group of rowdy children are told in no uncertain terms by an annoyed animal that they have crossed the line.

The common signs of aggression are growling, snarling, barking, curled lips, lunging and an overall menacing posture, where the dog is tensed and ready to snap. (Note: there is also something known as a submissive smile exhibited by some dogs, whereby the animal actually shows its teeth as it approaches. Ive seen this behavior confuse many owners, but it can be dismissed as such by the dogs lowering its head as it smiles, and often wag its tail too). There are other indications, such as jumping or mounting or even standing in your way that are much less of a problem and often go ignored when not accompanied by the other more severe signs.

But all of these are also very obvious and advanced manifestations of aggression. Being able to recognize the behaviors that lead up to these signs will go a long way. For example, dogs unsure about meeting someone new (human or canine) will approach hesitantly and "circle" their opposite. You may likely even see distrust or suspicion in their eyes (with some of the whites showing).

Dogs also have two areas on their back, their "hackles," where they are able to raise the hair on their coat. Located between the shoulders and just above the tail, raised hackles will be more obvious on some dogs than others depending on the coat, but it always means a very heightened state of awareness and excitement, and is the prelude to aggression. So, even though raised hackles do not automatically mean aggression, it means you should pay attention and do your part to ensure that there is no reason for the situation to escalate into an aggressive one. What is your part exactly?

Your Role

In most cases dogs become aggressive because they don't know what else to do. The reason they don't know what else to do is because there is no one else there to tell them or show them what to do, or even assure them that they should do NOTHING instead. In the absence

of your guidance and leadership, they are forced to make all these decisions on their own. That's not only a downright dangerous position to put them, it's also unfair.

This is something that professional trainer Brian Heward explains quite well in the Dog Training DVD Series that we have put out at Kingdom of Pets. He talks a lot about establishing your role as leader. Now everyone knows how very important it is to position yourself at the top of the "pack" in your hybrid family of humans and dogs. But Brian really makes sense of why it is in fact *more* stressful for a dog who is a dominant "Alpha" dog but really does not want to be.

When a dog's role is not made clear by his owner, the pressure is on the dog to protect his owner, protect his territory, not to mention protect himself so his own role does not come into question. That's a lot of work and a lot of worry. And the result is all too often an aggressive dog that really does not need to be that way. Punishing a dog who is ultimately trying to watch out for everyone inevitably makes things worse.

To give you some examples, now that you know what aggressive posturing looks like, if you see these signs in another dog, AVOID that dog on your walks. At the same time, keep your confidence and your nerves intact when you do: your dog is sensing every last bit of your anxiety, and perhaps even feeling it (how many times have you seen tense owners pull in their lead for dear life when you walk by with your dog?). Just tell your dog that you'll be taking a wide berth, and walk calmly past. If there's not enough space to do that even, have your dog on a "sit" command and place yourself (the leader of the group) in between yourself and the suspect dog as it walks past. If the owner does not keep their dog under control, you might even let them know about it.

The opposite applies: if you come across a dog that is exhibiting playful and friendly signs, TELL your dog that this is a "friend" and that a greeting is ok. If possible, I've found that it works well if you greet the dog first, then "ok" the mutual canine greeting second.

All in all, you need to communicate to your dog what is a genuine threat and what is not, and in reality, there is not all that much in this world that should be a genuine threat to your dog if you're doing your job as the boss. More than that, you need to communicate in a calm yet assertive manner. It's about body language remember. No matter what you SAY, if you ACT like you're freaked out, your dog will do the same.

As Brian says, our world does not equal a dog's world - our world is much bigger, much noisier, and indeed, much scarier. But it is our world that we've asked our dogs to live in. Not only that, we've asked them to behave in it too. All the more reason they need the right sort of guidance.

Socializaton

A lesson on dog aggression would not be complete without at least a brief discussion about the cornerstone of dog obedience: SOCIALIZATION. Socialization just means letting your dog figure out how to behave in social situations by regularly putting him or her in social situations. This starts right from the puppy days. Your dog needs to interact with other dogs and other people absolutely as much as possible. Dogs that are not socialized with other people and other dogs are very often the same dogs that have aggression problems.

When your puppy has play sessions with other dogs, keep an eye out for dogs that will get along with yours, and make a point of seeing these dogs again. But also let your dog interact with other dogs - older and bigger dogs - who will keep your dog "in line" if he or she happens to be exhibiting dominant behavior. On the other extreme, do not let your dog hang out with other dogs that tend to roughhouse too much or bully yours around to the point where they are causing the dogs stress and stunting confidence. Dog socialization is a hugely important topic, and it's one that Susan Morton, the dog trainer who co-presents the Kingdom of Pets dog training DVDs with Brian, has a lot more to say about in those videos. She'll tell you all about how to choose your dog's friends wisely!

Remember, the more familiar a situation is to your dog, the more comfortable they will be - "human animals" are exactly the same! - and the less they will need your guidance and instruction. If your dog sees no one aside from you for most of the hours of most days, and sees very little outside the confines of your own backyard, can you blame them for acting a bit strange when they actually get out into the big wide world?

Until then,

Daniel Stevens Secrets to Dog Training http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/

P.S. Did you know that we've got a Special Offer for Subscribers to the Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course? (That's you). Check it out at:

http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/6day_special.php

Welcome to Day Six of the Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course

Dealing with Your Dog's Digging

When you come home to find holes all over your lawn, and you have a dog, there may be a correlation there. But don't bother trying to confront your dog after the fact. Punishment after the fact is widely known as the least effective and potentially most damaging form of dog training on earth. Even if you bring your dog to the spot, hold them by the scruff of the neck, and scold them while you direct their head deep into their handiwork, they won't have any idea what all the fuss is about.

Instead, take a deep breath, and complete your after work wind-down routine. Then, calmly return to the back yard to locate your dog, with the intention of asking a few questions about their habit of excavating your property.

Question One

If you are unable to locate your dog, AND the holes in your lawn are all found right along the bottom of your fence line, then you may not need to ask the first question, which is, "Are you trying to escape?" If your pet is not "fixed" (neutered or spayed), then they may be entertaining their roaming instinct. They will return, and they may even bring a whole family with them when they do.

Question Two

Another possibility is that your dog is digging to freedom in an attempt to find you. If your dog is near or even somewhere on your property when you return from a period of absence, they may in fact have separation anxiety issues, which you'll have to treat directly. Once you do, the digging will be an afterthought.

Question Three

If your dog is there, your next question to ask is, "Are you getting too hot back here when I'm away?" We all know that dogs pant when it's hot. But they also like to burrow, especially when there is not a spot of shade in sight. So you'll need to rule this out as motivating factor for your dog's digging, and make sure they have a place to stay cool.

Lastly, you'll have to ask your dog, "Are you burying your stuff?" This is simply an old habit that stems from the fact that their ancestors often killed more than they could eat in a sitting. This habit may be tough to break, but try changing the range of treats you leave with your

dog when away. For instance, a massive juicy bone may be a great treat for your dog when you're around, but might be something you don't leave with them when you're gone.

You may have to change the dog's access areas, or fence off an area that you'd like to keep for the kid's soccer pitch. You can also try setting up a dirt area or sandbox where digging is allowed and encouraged. Many dogs are wild about sand, and you can even attract them to the area by burying treats in the sandbox. I've seen this work well.

In the grand scheme of dog obedience problems, however, this should be more of a nuisance than anything. Often I remind dog owners that it's more than likely their grass will forgive the dog, and that having a healthy and happy pet sometimes comes with the sacrifice of a perfect lawn.

***

With that said, we've reached the perfect conclusion to the Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day course. That's all we're willing to cough up by way of a free samples, but we do hope it felt much more like a big fat 6 six course meal than a just a "sample." And we do hope you will take a closer look at what Kingdom of Pets has to offer for dog care and obedience training resources, which is really nothing short of a comprehensive multi-media dog training library!

In the meantime, don't forget about our Special Offer for Subscribers to the Secrets to Dog Training 6 Day Course, which you'll find at:

http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/6day_special.php

Dog Obedience Training with Secrets To Dog Training: Solving Your Dog's Behavior Problems, the Right Way
Hi Jim,

On behalf of myself and the team at Kingdom of Pets, I'd like to welcome you to the Secrets To Dog Training 6-Day Course, and also commend you on your decision to find out how our flagship product, the Secrets To Dog Training dog obedience training program, can improve your relationship with your dog. We are proud to be market leaders in downloadable dog care and training products, and fully recognize that this is an honor we owe to our loyal customers. Putting this course together was easy. I've basically assembled a "Greatest Hits" list of dog obedience problems based on questions sent in to me by Members of the Kingdom of Pets community, which includes everyone who has purchased Secrets To Dog Training or one of our many other dog training books or DVDs. Each member receives a full email consultation with their purchase of Secrets To Dog Training, and drawing on this material seemed like the obvious way to show you what we're all about and what we do. So the purpose of this course is to introduce you to Secrets To Dog Training, but at the same time get right to bottom of some of the most persistent problems that are robbing so many dog owners of the true enjoyment of dog ownership. I've started with a crash lesson on dealing with a dog that jumps up. I'll focus on a dog that jumps up on people in particular, but jumping up on other dogs, on furniture, or even on the kitchen counter is all part of this obedience issue. You'll get there with this link, which will take you directly to part one of your Secrets To Dog Training 6-Day Course: http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/newsletters/news0033.php Some of these problems - ignoring commands, pulling on the leash, jumping up on people, manic barking - are by no means the most difficult ones to remedy. But they are still some of the most common that I address. By far. And let me say that I too feel the frustration that dog owners feel when confronting these persistent and often embarrassing problems. After all, you have to deal with one dog that ignores commands I've got to deal with dozen and dozens, week in and out! As all professional dog trainers should recognize (but don't necessarily), there's a lot more to dog obedience training than "damage control." Sure, you want to break those bad doggy habits, you want to make sure everyone knows that you're the boss, you want to keep your house and your lawn and your possessions intact, and so on... But the *real* benefit of an extraordinarily obedient dog goes beyond all that. The real benefit of not having to deal with obedience issues is the fact that you (and your dog) can put all of your energy into making your relationship a fulfilling one. When things go right, you know, as I know, your life will be all the richer for the experience. And you can't emphasize that enough.

Don't worry, I won't get all personal and sentimental on you about the joys of dog ownership. There's nothing worse than listening to someone else talk about how great their dog is, so I'm not going to do it... I'm not going to sit here and tell you that my new black and white border collie cross, Darwin, just had his one year birthday this week and spent the afternoon trying - adorably - to pounce on crickets in our driveway... No, I won't do that. Instead, I'm going to get right into the meat of the matter: essential tips and techniques to put an end to your dog obedience troubles. You'll find that link again, at: http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/newsletters/news0033.php What better way to introduce you to what we do than just start doing it, right? So let's get started. Kind regards, Daniel Stevens Secrets To Dog Training P.S. Check out our special offer for 6 Day Course subscribers: http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/6day_special.php P.P.S. If you have any questions about Secrets to Dog Training please let me know! Just reply to this email address and I, or someone from the Secrets to Dog Training team, will get back to you within 2 working days!