editiOn

w w w.g l a m qata r.c o m

editor chief fashion correspondent senior correspondents

Online

sindhu nair debrina aliyah abigail mathias ezdhar ibrahim ali rory coen
the international woolmark prize final award event was held during london fashion week with the support of the british fashion council. it is an award for the next generation, shifting focus from glamour to true fashion design talent and is a way to highlight the beauty of the merino wool fibre. catch all the finalists work and details as well as the judges comments on the rising stars at glamqatar.com

photographer

rob altamirano venkat reddy hanan abu siam ayush indrajith maheshwar reddy b

senior art director

deputy art director assistant art director senior graphic designer

EVENTS OF THE MONTH

senior manager marketing assistant managers - marketing

zulfikar jiffry chaturka karandana thomas jose hasan rekkab lydia youssef

senior media consultants

marketing research & support executive senior accountant sr. distribution executive distribution support

kanwal baluch pratap chandran bikram shrestha arjun timilsina bhimal rai basantha.p

1 Al-Amal - charity Fashion show - March 8 an elite and diverse collection of abayas reflecting the theme, the soul of the 60s, will be presented by fufistylist-abaya alongside some great artwork by talented local artists. this charity event will also include orchestra performance and jared mcculloch from global djs, playing the beats throughout the ramp walk. the entire fund raised from tickets sale, auctions of abaya and artwork will be donated to al amal hospital for cancer research. www.theyouthcompany.com

publisher and editorinchief chief executive executive vice president vice president

yousuf jassem al darwish sandeep sehgal alpana roy ravi raman

tasmeem doha is the international art and design conference held biennially at vcuqatar. over the past eight years, tasmeem has gathered scholars and practitioners of art and design to discuss critical issues and engage with students and local communities. this year, a specially commissioned fashion showcase with the theme of hybrid making will be presented by qatar-based designers to wrap up the conference. for invites and information, contact, vcuqevents@qatar.vcu.edu

2 tasmeem design conference - March 10 to 17

COMING UP

GLAM is pubLished by Oryx AdvertisinG cO. WLL. the contents of this publication are subject to copyright and cannot be reproduced without the express permission of the publisher and/or license holder. all rights rest with datalog media solutions. the publisher does not accept responsibility for any advertising contents carried in this publication. contact info@omsqatar.com, glam@omsqatar.com www.issuu.com/oryxmags www.facebook.com/glamqatar call us: +974 44550983, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 fax: +974 44550982

in april, we talk to jo la mode boutique qatar on cultivating qatari talents and pushing them into the international fashion scene. the boutique, who is affiliated with rouda centers fashion journey is keen on helping local talents soar greater heights.

PRiNtS ANd PAttERNS Add A WHOlE NEW diMENSiON tO yOuR Outfit if dONE tHE RigHt WAy. tAkE A CuE fROM OuR MAtCHiNg gAME ANd gO tHE WHOlE WAy WitH tHiS SEASON'S HOt PRiNt tRENd.

jungle floral print sleeveless top qr73

helmut lang paneled printed crepe blazer qr3294

SA VE SPLuRGE

Vs

alexander mcqueen the de manta printed silk-satin clutch qr1540

Prints
compiled by debrina aliyah
jungle floral print pants qr148 all items available from net-a-porter jungle floral print scarf qr64 helmut lang paneled printed crepe pants qr1862

Matching

all items available from h&m

02
michael kors quilted studs tote with straps from salam studios & stores

mums
01
BEiNg A MuM iS NO EASy tASk ANd WE kNOW tHAt HAviNg tHE PERfECt CARRy-All BAg HElPS MAkE tHiNgS EASiER ESPECiAlly WHEN yOu NEEd tO fit iN All yOuR dAily ESSENtiAlS fOR yOuR littlE ONES. WE PiCk Out fivE StANd-Out BAgS tHAt Will HElP yOu StAy ORgANiSEd ANd StyliSH At tHE SAME tiME.
christian louboutin farida bowler tote from christian louboutin boutique in villaggio

baG it uP,

fASHiON / 33

05
bottega veneta intrecciato leather tote from www. net-a-porter.com qr15,176

04
pierre hardy cube-print canvas tote from www.net-a-porter.com qr2,990

03

maxi zip bag from www.anyahindmarch.com qr5,082

the front panel opens to reveal cleverly labelled interior pockets and sections to store everyday essentials. perfect for on-the-go mothers! anya says, craftsmanship, attention to detail, and personalisation have always been central to my dna. i have never been a believer in the it bag. i think it is more important to buy something that you love and will cherish for a long time, not something that everybody else has.

06

proenza schouler ps1 large leather satchel from www.net-a-porter. com qr7,991

34 \ fASHiON

the shift

DRESS
1 2 3 4 orchid print in silk from giambattista valli - qr5370 chiffon and sequin texture from marios schwab qr7270 kaleidoscope lace print from peter pilotto qr2535 original illustration print from giles designed exclusively for matches qr3585 trina milandes print from erdem qr4225 5

all womenswear pieces available from www.matchesfashion.com

tHE flAttERiNg ONE PiECE gEtS A REvivAl tHiS SEASON WitH A REPERtOiRE fOR PRiNtS ANd MOtifS. ANd SiNCE it iS A SPECiAl MONtH fOR tHE HOt MuMMiES Out tHERE, WEvE SElECtEd AN Edit Of dRESSES fOR yOuR ASPiRiNg StylE-SAvvy dAugHtERS tOO!

6 5 7 8 9

scotch & soda flowing fluorescent pink dress with a belt qr320 rykiel enfant multi-coloured striped knit dress qr623 i pinco pallino flower-printed dress qr1143 monnalisa pink panther-printed dress qr623

all childrenswear pieces available from www.melijoe.com

iN tHE EvER-EvOlviNg WORld Of fASHiON, divERSity HAS BECOME ONE Of tHE MOSt ExCitiNg dEvElOPMENtS fOR tHE iNduStRy. iN tHE lASt tWO dECAdES, WE HAvE SEEN tHE RiSE Of PROMiNENt ASiAN PERSONAlitiES iN tHE CREAtivE PROCESS likE vera wang ANd anna sui WHO HAvE BECOME fAMiliAR NAMES. dESigNERS fROM ASiA BASEd iN tHEiR OWN HOME COuNtRiES ARE PRESENtiNg COllECtiONS tHAt ARE SARtORiAlly ExCitiNg ANd COMMERCiAlly viABlE ON AN iNtERNAtiONAl lEvEl. iN tHiS SPECiAl REPORt, WE PRESENt iNfluENtiAl ASiAN fASHiON NAMES tHAt HAvE CARvEd tHEiR OWN NiCHE ANd NEW StARS tHAt ARE SHAPiNg OuR dESigN iNSPiRAtiONS.

VisiOn

ASIAN

My HERitAgE iS AlWAyS PRESENt iN My dESigN PROCESS

bibhu mOhaPatra
Four years ago Bibhus namesake label was launched with his first collection during New York Fashion Week in February 2009, and is currently sold at select boutiques around North America, Europe, Russia, and the Middle East. It is also available at stores like New Yorks Bergdorf Goodman, and Neiman Marcus in various cities in the US. In January 2010, he was a finalist for Womens Apparel 2010 Rising Star Award by The Fashion Group International. Review from his latest collection
biGGest FAshiOn MOMents. my first runway show. desiGners tO LOOk Out FOr. prabal, number lab and cushnie et ochs. perceptiOn OF MiddLe eAst And the FAshiOn industry. the biggest untapped market for luxury. sustAinAbiLity. i am focusing on reviving handloom textiles in odisha, india, where i work with the weavers to revive the craft. i do believe in sustainable creativity. the One WAy tO survive in the cut-thrOAt FAshiOn industry. determination and perseverance.

COlOuR WAS AlWAyS SyNONyMOuS WitH iNdiA

Vineet bahl
According to the designer, his eponymous label is known for interesting surface detailing, vivid colours and comprehensible silhouettes. He adds, All of these are offshoots of my innate design sensibility combined with my proud cultural signature that I derive from India. My first point of reference, when I begin designing is the specific cultural leitmotif I identify to include in my designs, he says.
evOLvinG FAshiOn. fashion is dynamic, and evolves constantly. part of this evolution is the inclusion of both utilitarian and aesthetic attributes, and this is where one sees colour and diversity coming in to impact fashion. colour was always synonymous with india but a little less prominent elsewhere in the world. but now, even the west is reacting to colours, and more and more international labels are rolling out collections that celebrate colour like they never have. in terms of diversity, the fabrics being used are now hugely varied. different fabrics are being combined to add to versatility of the fabric resulting in smarter designs. for example, in india we have begun using a hybrid of tassar and georgette called tassar georgette. this fabric combines the pliability of georgette and at the same time also retains the grainy sheen of tassar. diversity, thus, is going to tremendously add to the utilitarian aspect of clothes. desiGners tO LOOk Out FOr. i think guillaume henry (for carven) has impressed with his ability to reinvent demicouture. i also quite like the work of mary katrantzou who has very astutely made digital prints a rage like it never was. MiddLe eAst And the FAshiOn industry. i believe that the brand appeals universally to women whether she is in india or qatar or new york. and this is the tenet with which i work to make my label become globally acceptable whilst retaining the cultural ethos that india stands for. i think the middle east is a huge option to explore, both in terms of market as well as a source of inspiration. many of my collections have been inspired by my travel to the middle eastern countries. the persian jalabiya is a signature silhouette that i have often used on the ramp, with re-worked versions of it as well as in the original itself. in terms of sales also, the middle east is a very important market for me. in fact, every season i work on special ramadan collections that i design exclusively for my patrons in the middle east.

VisiOn

ASIAN

tHE PASt Will PlAy AN iMPORtANt ROlE

rOhit Gandhi + rahul khanna

The design duo has made a mark in the international and Indian contemporary prt wear for men and women having entered their 14th year of creative partnership. This year, the designers have also been awarded the prestigious GQ- Designers of the year. The designer duo are the only Indian designers to tie up with two of the largest corporate apparel brands in the country- Van Heusen and Wills Lifestyle, which reaches out to 100 stores nationwide. Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna retail through five stand-alone stores in the country, as well as from multi-designer stores and boutiques nationwide. Internationally the label is available at leading stores like Harvey Nichols, Swank and Sun Motoyama, Alberta to name a few. In Qatar, they are available at the Salam Stores.
desiGn phiLOsOphy. our clothing line is modern with contemporary twist. we believe in construction with minimal detailing. silver metal and dull gold has always played an important role in our collection which is inspired from the old indian metal beaten embroidery techniques. foiling and metal comes from the old mughal ornaments which are thus implied into our designs. inspirAtiOn And FAshiOn. india is a colourful country; therefore we are never too short of vibrancy. fashion is something that constantly changes. the future of fashion will rely on special finished fabrics, newer techniques but the past will always play an important role while designing for future. biGGest FAshiOn MOMents. small things surprise us more than the bigger ones. all designers feel great when they see people wearing their garments and yes, getting gq designer of the year award was great! desiGners tO LOOk Out FOr. alexander wang and catherine malandrino. perceptiOn OF MiddLe eAst And the FAshiOn industry. brand conscious, over the top, glam and jewel tones work best with their skin tones.

yvES SAiNt lAuRENt CAN dO A MAHARAJAH COllECtiON But ONly AN iNdiAN CAN gEt tO itS SOul.

wendell rOdriCks
Hes easily one of the first names in Indian fashion. Wendell Rodricks has trained in LA and Paris and has now made his home in Goa, India. He is known for his minimalist design which is worn by Indian and international celebrities alike. Wendell became the first Indian designer to be invited to the worlds largest garment fair Igedo, Dusseldorf in 1995. Since then he has shown in Beijing, Dubai, New York, Paris and many cities worldwide.
WhAt sets AsiAn desiGners ApArt. the biggest advantage we have is the hand of the artisan in asia. for millenia they have perfected their craft -- be it weaving, dyeing, embroidery. in india alone each state has an emporium of artisanship that exceeds the artisanship of many countries put together. when i wrote my book moda goa: history and style, i consciously travelled back in time from the prehistoric to the present via clothes. to enrich the future of a legacy, we must learn from the past and take it forward. what also works in asias favour is that from the dawn of time we have worn our clothing as an evolving legacy. asian women and men wear their clothes like their ancestors did...with pride for their cultural heritage. perceptiOn OF the MiddLe eAst. i lived in oman for four years and i still treasure the cultural wealth of that country. if an investor comes up with a plan, i am all for it. i would like to come and teach creative design and visit the fabulous qatar museum for myself. Advice tO upcOMinG desiGners. the best advice i received was to put my roots and country in my clothes. this is my advice to young designers. you come from a cultural heritage that no one else can be as close to. yves saint laurent can do a maharajah collection but only an indian can get to its soul. i consciously put goa in my clothes and stayed with the spirit of india in the way i cut my garments. i hope to see a qatar philosophy on a ramp soon, coming from the heart of a qatari.

VisiOn

ASIAN

it iS AN ExCitiNg tiME NOW fOR ASiANS ESPECiAlly AS CHiNA iS gROWiNg SO quiCkly

Peter sOm

The award-winning American designer of Chinese heritage is best known for his sophisticated lines, bold prints and cuts with a feminine appeal. Debuting in 2001 at Bryant Park, Som has had an illustrious career since having designed for Bill Blass and Tommy Hilfiger while crafting his own label. The Peter Som woman is an eclectic yet elegant woman who appreciates subtlety with an edge. Inspiration comes in all ways, I dont like to limit myself. And indeed it does for Som, who has launched not only an accessories line but also produced a childrenswear collection for Best & Co. as well as luxury linens in collaboration with Sferra. Innovation does not stop for the talented designer, Som opted to present a digital show for his AW 2013 collection at the recent NYFW and will be presenting his first ever bridal creations in collaboration with Anthropologies BHLDN this month.
On diversity. i believe that the future of the fashion industry will continue to become more diverse. as emerging markets start to grow and flourish it only makes sense that the fashion world will become even more global than it already is.

SuPPORt MuSt BE givEN tO PuSH lOCAl tAlENtS tO AN iNtERNAtiONAl StAgE

ZanG tOi
Malaysian-born Zang Toi is one of the pioneers of the fashion design movement in his home country. With a fashion career that has spanned almost two and a half decades, Zang has made a name for himself in the world of haute couture in New York. Focusing on classic cuts and designs with a strong emphasis on lush fabrics, Zangs creations are developed for a much sophisticated clientele. At the age of 20, he began his studies at Parsons School of Design and opened his first atelier in New York in 1989. A year later, he won the Mouton Cadet Young Designer of the Year and steadily rose in popularity because of his stunning work. Today, Zang is an established name in the world of haute couture counting celebrities including Gong Li, Sharon Stone and Eva Longoria as his clients. He stresses the importance of local initiatives to push their talents to the international forefront.
nurturinG LOcAL tALents. the locals must invest and support the designers financially so that they are able to showcase their designs on more international stages. truth to be told, there werent much malaysian initiatives that were being launched to help the fashion industry. On diversity. i have realized that the fashion industry has become uniform and globalized. i hope designers will show more colours and diversity in their collections; which makes the industry more interesting.

VisiOn

ASIAN

WHAt HAvENt i dONE BEfORE, WHAtS ExCitiNg, WHAtS NEW?

mOnique lhuiller

In her recent interview with the International Business Times, Monique shares her design process on the creation of new collections. Well you know, every time I start a collection I always say, What havent I done before, whats exciting, whats new, what do I want to accomplish this season? Femininity, soft silhouettes and fairy-tale evoking pieces form the signature of Monique Lhuilliers collections. Growing up in the Philippines, Moniques first experiences of fashion were with her mother whose own sense of personal style and elegance were major influences for the designer. Her mother, also a designer, ran a successful custom high-end collection of childrens clothing. Encouraged to pursue her fashion dream, Monique moved to Los Angeles to attend the Fashion Institute for Design and Merchandising.
she debuted her first collection in 1996 and soon became a major name for sweeping red carpet gowns and stunning bridal designs.

i tHiNk PERfECtiON iS ugly. SOMEWHERE iN tHE tHiNgS HuMANS MAkE, i WANt tO SEE SCARS, fAiluRE, diSORdER, diStORtiON

YOhji YamamOtO

Yohji Yamamoto was among the first Japanese designers to revolutionise the usually curvy, skinhugging fashions of Western women. The 69-year-old Tokyo native grew up with his mother, a selfemployed seamstress, in post-World-War-II Japan. He studied law at Keio University before attending the Bunkafukuso Gakuin College of Fashion. Yamamotos designs were immediately recognised as extraordinary, and after winning several awards he made it to Paris. He is known for his experimental use of black and unusual materials, as well as reshaping traditional Japanese garments. Yohji Yamamoto is his high-fashion label, while his Ys For Men and Ys for Women labels are seen as affordable and fit for everyday use. For the Middle Eastern woman bent on making an impression, Yohji Yamamotos Spring 2013 collection is certain to turn heads, writes Style Magazines Arabic website.
yamamoto is known for his melding of conservative and revealing styles.

VisiOn

ASIAN

i HAvE AlWAyS fOuNd A WOMANS BOdy tO BE ESPECiAlly BEAutiful

jasOn wu

There is no hotter name now than Jason Wu in the leagues of young American designers, having dressed Michelle Obama for both the inauguration ceremonies of President Barack Obama and most recently again at the State of the Union address. The Taiwanese-born designer moved to Canada when he was 9 and began his love affair with fashion by designing for dolls. I have always found a womans body to be especially beautiful ever since taking my first life drawing class as a teenager. I was drawn to fashion design as it is my passion to create garments that enhance and flatter the female form, explains Jason. Since the first collection, Jason has been dedicated to making clothes that were as beautifully crafted inside as out.
with the focus on couture quality craftsmanship, over 85% of the jason wu collection is manufactured in new york citys garment district.

yOu NEEd tO HAvE A PuRPOSE WHEN yOu dESigN MENSWEAR

junYa watanabe

Described as the most elusive fashion designer in the world, in a rare interview with The Guardian Junya Watanabe shuns media attention and has seldom been photographed. So it didnt come as a surprise to us that he didnt agree to answer our questions. The designer prefers to let his work do the talking and Glam respects his views and instead brings his designs to our readers. From his techno couture pieces, which blend high-tech fabrics with traditional construction, to his radically futuristic collections, Junyas intellectual approach has seen the introduction of new concepts of cut, fabric and styling, in addition to affirming his position as one of the most influential contemporary designers.
a look at his latest collection available at junya wantanabe from net-a-porter.com

56 \ ASiAN viSiON

true tO traditiOn
by debrina aliyah

ONE Of tHE MOSt CuttiNg EdgE fASHiON HOuSES fROM tHE uAE iS SPEARHEAdEd By AN ASiAN dESigNER WHO iS PROud ANd StRONgly ROOtEd iN HiS HERitAgE. fuRNE ONE, WHO COMES fROM tHE PHiliPPiNES, HAS WON ACCOlAdES glOBAlly ANd NOW CAllS duBAi HiS HOME.

furne One
is everything that you would expect a fashion phenomenon to be. His flamboyant appearances, his out-of-the-world fantasy creations, his eccentric fashion show productions and even his celebrity fans, including the likes of Katy Perry and Nicki Minaj, lean towards the wild side. With such larger-than-life associations, it is pleasantly surprising to discover that the designer has never forgotten his humble beginnings. With a neversay-no attitude to life and deep appreciation for the opportunities that had come his way, Furne continues to bring forth creative work that is revolutionary in this region's fashion industry. "My career has really blossomed over the

years. And I mean, really blossomed. The journey was tremendously overwhelming. So many opportunities came my way for me to show the world what fashion means to me and a lot of doors opened for me and my brand Amato Couture." Amato, Furne's first boutique was launched in 2002 in Dubai, and allowed the designer to showcase his exquisite hand-stitched designs and intricately detailed creations. But what really jumpstarted his career was winning the MEGA Magazine Young Designer of the Philippines Award in 1994, which led to an apprenticeship with Josie Natori in New York. Josie Natori, herself is another inspiring story of an Asian

mY has career

really blossomed over the years. And I mean, really blossomed. The journey was tremendously overwhelming.

designer who made it big in the fashion industry. Furne then went on to bag the Japan Women's Wear Awards, and in 1997, made it to the finals of the prestigious Manila Fashion Designer Awards. His talents brought him to this part of the world and his hard work and diligence sealed his success. "Dubai is like a little New York, in a sense that it has allowed me achieve all my inspirations. Turning my inspirations into a reality in this country is such a humbling experience for me. I have never forgotten my roots, values, and cultures which moulded me into the person I am today. I was given the chance to express my imagination and explore the true meaning of fashion. Dubai has given me so much inspiration

because of its multi-cultural environment," he says. "I can simply say our values and culture will always reflect in the kind of designs we create. I am now able to mix my culture with Arabian influences. It is just simply an interpretation of our sense of imagination," he adds. The eclectic designer has since marked many milestones in his career, having worked with Swarovski to design a bridal couture piece for the brand's limited edition book, Unbridaled, and being a special guest designer on the season finale of Germany's Next Top Model alongside supermodel Heidi Klum. The prominence and limelight has put Amato Couture on the international fashion arena, and Furne now

dresses the creme de la creme of the style-savvy. Staying true to his words, Furne has his home country on his mind and has embarked on collaborations with Bench, a large fashion retail chain based in the Philippines. In a big celebration back in Manila, the designer and Bench revealed Unholy, the latest fragrance created by Furne One for Bench. This is his third fragrance for the brand following Beautiful Boy and Handsome Girl. And if this is sounding like a major fashion empire in the making, Furne assures that we are on the right track. He says, "There are a lot more new projects in the pipeline for Amato Couture, and 2013 will be the year where we will take the world by storm."

dresses: ranna gill available at salam studios & stores

fashion editor: carla mallari visual director & photographer: abdul rahman al-baker hair & make up: blanca paloma montenegro models: carla mallari & kavya nair concept: debrina aliyah location: al khalejia building.

a new wind

fASHiON / 61

CONtEMPORARy MEEtS HERitAgE, ASiAN dESigNERS HAvE MAStEREd tHE BESt Of BOtH WORldS. fASHiON BECOMES MORE iNtEREStiNg WitH divERSE CREAtivE PERSONAlitiES ANd iNfluENCES, ANd AS WE EMBRACE tHiS NEW WiNd. WE PiCk OuR fAvOuRitE EStABliSHEd ANd RiSiNg ASiAN StARS iN tHiS MONtHS EditORiAl.

dress: rohit gandhi & rahul khanna collection designed exclusively for salam studios & stores

top: rohit gandhi & rahul khanna collection designed exclusively for salam studios & stores

dress: 3.1 phillip lim bag; alexander wang designer at www.net-a-porter.com

top: rohit gandhi & rahul khanna skirt: 3.1 phillip lim designer at www.net-a-porter.com

dress: alexander wang designer at www. net-a-porter.com shirt styled as bolero

top: rohit gandhi & rahul khannas

68 \ fASHiON

sPeed
fashiOn

thrills
H&M tEAMS uP WitH BRiCk lANE BikES tO PROduCE SPORty, fuNCtiONAl yEt ENviRONMENtAlly-CONSCiOuS MENSWEAR COllECtiON. glAM RidES tHE fASt lANES WitH tHE fOuNdERS Of BRiCk lANE BOyS.

ollaborations between designers and retailers may be all the rage, but H&M has taken a new twist by partnering with a bike shop to produce a range of versatile yet functional collection for the boys. And yes, although it is officially a menswear collection, you know that all the trendsetters will be taking their dips into the pieces because we all love a little bit of androgyny edge in our wardrobe. GLAM catches up with the founders of Brick Lane Bikes, Feya Buchwald and Petter Klusell, to find out more about the 11-piece collection that will be available in stores this month. What is a Brick Lane Bike? A bike from Brick Lane Bikes will be customised in one way or another. Itll probably have a good quality steel frame, which gives a smooth ride in the city, absorbing the shocks of the road. You can make your bike look as elegant as you want, or as crazy as you want. It depends on your own personal style. How did you feel when you were approached by H&M? It was so exciting to find out how real they wanted the collection to be. It was fantastic to know they wanted us to give our opinions and feedback on what works for people who ride. When your team tested the collection, what was it they were looking for? Our first conversations were about the feel of the collection, the vibe of the shop and what people on bikes actually want. We talked about what riders want their clothes to look and feel like, and described what our friends are wearing and also missing out on, how they take one item with sports performance and mix it with their jeans. When we were given the first samples to test, the team wore the collection as they rode the streets, took notes, made videos of our remarks for H&M, and then talked them through the specific things that we thought could be improved. What kind of input did you give the design team at H&M? A lot of our input was to do with flexibility, giving a little bit more room in the shoulder, or making the garment a bit longer in the back, and small tweaks like how the garment lets out air. They were mostly small things that needed to be changed, but its the little details that can make all the difference, and make a garment believable. Its our name on it, so

we want people to believe they can ride in it. Which are your favourite pieces from the collection, and why? If you walked into the shop today, youd think someone had written a memo to the staff, because theyre all wearing chinos! Everybody loves them. My favourite piece is the quilted jacket, because everyone who wears it looks amazing. Its smart, casual and warm enough to stop the wind, but not too hot when you are riding. I also love the vintage-style Merino jersey. We sell vintage jerseys in our shop, and not necessarily to cyclists. Its for those who love the look of cycling. We get asked for them all the time, and we asked for this jersey to be in the collection. Tell me about the sustainable materials used in the collection. How important is it for the collection to be environment- conscious? Trying to have a sustainable lifestyle goes with the whole idea of cycling, so it made sense to have the collection be as conscious as we possibly could. In the collection we use organic cotton, recycled cotton and recycled polyester. Even the shell jacket has a special, more environmentally friendly, waterrepellent finish called Bionic Finish Eco. It was a great challenge to make performance clothing from more sustainable materials, and were very proud of the results. What did you learn from designing the collection? We have learned so much from designing this collection with H&M. At the end of the day, our job is to make clothes that fit with the way people live their lives today. More and more people are starting to use a bike. We have learned about the whole bike scene today, and how garments play such an important role within it. Weve learned even more about sustainable materials, how they can be used in functional clothing, and how functional clothing can also be fashionable. I think as a design team weve come out of this project better designers than we were before. Can you describe the bike BLB has made for the H&M window display? We wanted to make a bike for H&M which reflects our interests now. We used a steel frame thats very slim and what we call "lo-pro," so that the rider is leaning forward to make you quicker. Its in traditional racing green with white features, and to make it exciting weve added a white front trispoke wheel. We recently brought out trispokes in black and people have been going crazy around the world for them. Theyre very rare in white. Its the type of bike that makes you look twice.

74 \ HERitAgE

THE RETuRN OF A TITAN

by debrina aliyah

Asprey

REdEfiNiNg tHE MEANiNg Of luxuRy SEEMS tO BE A CliCHE tHESE dAyS But PERHAPS it iS A CliCHE tHAt RiNgS tRuE fOR ASPREy, AS tHEy ExPlORE tHE NExt lEvEl Of tRuE CRAftSMANSHiP ANd A dEEPER BONd WitH tHEiR CliENtS.

while

luxury consumers begin to increase in numbers and their voracity in appetite for all things high end, it is only natural for brands to rise to the occasion to cater to the growth. Asprey, on the other hand, has taken a path less trodden to focus on their boutique operation instead of a global takeover. Yes, some may say that years of internal scuffle within the company has hindered its progress, but the new guidance by John Rigas has given the much needed new breath of life into a brand that has a history of nearly two and a half centuries. Beyond the fancy trappings of luxury aspirations lies true quality and craftsmanship, which ultimately, the most discerning of buyers would

pay good money for. It is this principle that Asprey has capitalised on to build a new vision towards luxury. The bespoke leather goods and jewellery produced in recent years reflects only the best from exotic animal skins to perfectly-cut diamonds. The brand knows that, to a gentleman, there is something irresistible about a subtle QR4,000 cocktail shaker. Here, luxury is not something to shout about or to be paraded; it is something that you feel deeply, at heart. Asprey was founded in 1781 in Surrey by William Asprey, as a silk printing business before moving into its iconic Bond Street store in 1847, where it established itself as a luxury store that specialised in procuring items of adornment from all around the world. An early specialty was dressing cases, a much treasured item of the colonial days by British women that regarded fancy dressing cases as status symbols. Asprey introduced new portable designs, especially in leather which made it perfect for travel via trains. It was the excellent innovation of dressing cases that sealed Aspreys status among the British elite. In 1862, after winning a gold medal

for its dressing cases in an international exhibition, Queen Victoria granted the brand a royal warrant and business flourished. Asprey became the ultimate go to for high-end refineries and the brands name was renowned through all of the British Empire. The brands special relations with the British monarch continued with warrants issued by King Edward VII, King George V, HRH Prince Edward, HM Queen Mary, King George VI, and Queen Elizabeth II. In 1953, at the coronation of the current monarch, Elizabeth II, Asprey paid homage with the Asprey Coronation Year Gold Collection, which featured a dessert, coffee and liqueur service in 18-carat gold and weighed almost 27 pounds. In the same year, it went on show in the New Bond Street store and subsequently toured the United States. While Asprey as a company went through some tumultuous years, in the past decade, the brand is beginning to gain traction with a new focus. Aspreys chairman Rigas has placed a renewed emphasis on the brands excellent craftsmanship and to realign a new kind of luxury for its customers. Asprey has always been proud of its craftsmen workshops

situated above the store at New Bond Street, as they still are today. The workshops play hosts to silversmiths, jewellers, leatherworkers, engravers and watchmakers with traditional skills working alongside new age contemporary designers. In the jewellery workshop, master jewellers continue to hand set each stone to ensure every piece bears the unique identity of Asprey's and in the leather workshop, only the finest materials and traditional techniques are used to create bespoke items. Aspreys silver workshop is famed for restoring and producing some of the worlds most famous trophies including the FA Premier League Trophy, and the Investec Derby Trophy. Today, there are four Asprey boutiques in the USA, one in Switzerland and three in Japan, locations which have been carefully considered. Anchored by its iconic New Bond Street store, Asprey wants to maintain the exclusivity by limiting the number of boutiques with a product range that is targeted at not only the affluent, but those who truly appreciate the art.
a select edit of items are available at www.asprey.com

baCkstaGe COnfidential
glAM WAS PRivy tO tHE BACkStAgE Of RAMi Al-AliS SS2013 PRESENtAtiON At tHE RECENt PARiS COutuRE fASHiON WEEk.
the endearing syrian designer who has a strong fan base here in qatar, tells us about his third showing at the big city. you would think that after two very successful shows in paris, you would have seen and experienced it all, but that certainly is not the case. i was very excited for my ss2013 show despite it being the third time for me in paris, and the third time at the prestigious le meurice, he says. describing his mesmerising collection, he adds, i designed my latest collection based on an era that has always inspired me and i wanted to bring it back to life. The Great Gatsby was a brilliant book that explored a revolution of women in society, which i can still see happening today. i always design for the glamorous, powerful and confident woman, and this collection embodies it all. a lot of interest was generated from the day of the show and it has only made me more excited to see what lies ahead.

fASHiON / 101

RazaN alazzOUNI

demand
It really does say much of a designers work when the collection is nearly sold out before the event actually begins. In a private showing at Texture Boutique to unveil Razan Alazzounis Spring Summer 2013 pieces to Qatar, regular clients had first dips and nearly bought out the entire whole collection. This definitely comes as no surprise as Saudi-born Razan is the latest fashion phenomenon to hit the Middle East region with her exceptional design that combines the best of fine art detailing with flattering fashion cuts. For this special event, Razan unveiled a few exclusive pieces that were designed specifically for Texture Boutique, and needless to say, those were the first to be snapped up.
texture boutique is a multi-brand boutique in doha that focuses on the best of local and regional designers.

Designs in

an Ode tO fresh frenCh Cuisine

by debrina aliyah

quisine

dOHA JOiNS tHE RANkS Of PARiS, lAS vEgAS ANd SiNgAPORE tO PlAy HOSt tO tHE lAtESt REStAuRANt vENtuRE Of CHEf guy SAvOy. WitH A gORgEOuS SEttiNg OvERlOOkiNg tHE MARiNA Of tHE PEARl, quiSiNE By guy SAvOy iS CERtAiNly ONE Of tHE fiNESt diNiNg SPOtS iN tOWN NOW.

ExPERiENCE / 103

the

dish from Guy Savoy that had me enamoured in the past was a dish of mushrooms and artichokes topped with more mushrooms, and accompanied with a brioche buttered with even more mushroom. Breaking the dish down to the ingredients makes it much less glamourous but the taste of this dish has always been lingering. I truly love my mushrooms, of all kinds. This dish was the one that shot Guy Savoy to fame. While the culinary world has gone through various kinds of innovations, from fusion to molecular gastronomy and all those fancy stuff, nothing beats a little bit of old school to bring back the charm of French cuisine. And in this case, the simple, heartwarming dish of Artichoke and Black Truffle soup with Layered Brioche of Mushrooms and Truffles. In the chef s latest outpost here in Doha, the ambience is classy but unintimidating. It feels warm and you get little glimpses into the chef s mind through the art pieces he handpicked to adorn the restaurant. And when it comes to the cuisine, is there even a doubt? The menu is a select edit of the original fanfare from his Parisian flagship restaurant, and retains all of the chef s signature cooking style. Savoy loves his fresh ingredients and natural flavours, an ode to the environment he grew up in with a gardener as a father. I think it is the essence of this humility and ingenuity that really jumps out in his cooking. While we all appreciate precision and modernity in nouveau cuisine, nothing beats

sentimentality. Just like how rice puddings are always available in Savoys restaurants. It was a treat he grew up with, and never seems to grow out of. In fact, it is the one thing he would like you to try from the signature dessert trolley just before you head home. All these elements translate into a dining experience that is nothing short of memorable and pleasantly satisfying. The staff is cheerful and ever ready to share all the concepts and ideas that Savoy wants to convey. All of the little touches that we are familiar with in Savoys other restaurants are present, the bread trolley, the little palate cleansers, the delightful cheese spread, and of course, the dessert trolley that features a little bit of the chef s personal favourites. Just as I was about to end the meal with a double espresso, I was politely requested to reconsider with a more exciting option. A new trolley was wheeled out with little potted plants that trailed with a whiff of a fresh herb garden. In a country where coffee of all variations is widely available, Savoy brings something new to the table. The potted plants of herbs are sourced exclusively from a farmer in France. The leaves are picked and infused right at the table while you enjoy the scents of new generation herbs of pineapple sage and chocolate mint. Chef Savoys debut into this region was much anticipated, and we truly have something to be excited for now in the dining landscape in Qatar. If you are unacquainted, you will fall in love, and if you feel you have tasted it all, think again, there is something about Quisine that might just surprise you.

hiGhLiGhts
1 braised knuckle of veal, black truffle

potato puree chef savoys signature dish of a whole braised knuckle of veal - request for sharing of half portions available.

1 blue Lobster cruit in cold steam the cold steam experience is visually entertaining before you tuck in the lobster dish that focuses on different textures. 1 caviar and potato pebble, smoked

sabayon egg another visual and textural experience in the creation of a pebble using potatoes. a delicate dessert created especially for the doha outpost featuring a banana and passion fruit sorbet enveloped in a white chocolate pearl crust. seeds and vegetables, marinated baby squid the red mullet is cooked in its own liver foam, a signature technique of chef savoy.

1 the pearl

1 sauteed fillets of red mullet, citrus fruit

1 smoked tea

in the absence of wine, the restaurant serves unique smoked flavoured teas to pair the menus. Quisine by Guy sAvOy

dinner service from sunday to friday 7pm to 10.30pm retail unit 109, parcel number 04 la croisette 07, porto arabia the pearl qatar tel : +974 40027245 email : reservations@guysavoy.qa