DO IT YOURSELF

MAKING HOMEBREW PCBs

Making your own PCBs need not be a tedious and costly affair if you use this unconventional but simple technique
SANI THEO

part from procuring the components for a hardware project, the next most tedious thing is fabrication of the printed circuit board (PCB). However, fabricating your own single-/double-side PCBs can become an interesting preposition using some unconventional techniques described here. Normally, the PCB manufacturing process involves use of expensive equipment including a large vertical camera, dark room equipment and accessories, stencil screen, UV light, and wet or dry resist materials. The PCB fabrication technique suggested here does not require any of these expensive resources. A flow-chart of PCB fabrication process using conventional techniques is shown in Fig. 1. Some of the steps like solder masking and component marking are not shown in the flow-chart.

Fig. 2: Flow-chart of home-brew PCB fabrication

Resource requirement
For homebrew PCB fabrication, you require: 1. Intel Pentium-III/IV PC with PCB design software 2. 600-1200dpi laser printer with premium-quality paper or butter-paper 3. Miscellaneous items such as single-/double-side copper-laminated board, acetone/lacquer thinner, scrubbing sponge, paper towel, toothbrush, clothes iron, hacksaw, marker pen, ferric chloride or ammonium persulphate, two baths/containers, latex gloves and a hand drill. A flow-chart of homebrew PCB fabrication process is shown in Fig. 2. Here too, solder masking and etching steps, which form part of screen-printing, are not shown. The details of the steps involved in processing the
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Fig. 1: Flow-chart of the conventional PCB fabrication process

homebrew PCB are discussed below.

PC-based artwork
With PCB designing software installed in your PC, you can develop the artwork quite conveniently. Thus steps like drawing the schematic on paper, using black or red masking tapes on transparent sheets, are skipped. Demo versions of various PCB designing software packages like PCB123, Express PCB and DIP Trace are frequently included in the EFY-CD. Install any of these package in your computer, go through their tutorial/ help files to learn use of various tools

and component libraries, then place the components and join them by tracks on the bottom layer (for singleside PCB) or on both the bottom and top (component-side) layers, and check their netlists for any discrepancy against the schematic circuit of your project. Here are some tips for working your way while drawing the PCB layout on PC: 1. Draw the conductor pattern (both for the bottom layer and the top layer, i.e., component side) as though you are looking at each layer from the top side (component side) of the board. 2. To put text on the bottom layer, you have to use mirrored text (flipped left-to-right), for it to be readable on the finished board. Most graphics software have simple mirroring and horizontal flipping features that can work on just a select portion of an image as well as on the entire image. 3. For putting artwork/text on the component side of the board (i.e., topside copper layer), flip the whole image before or while taking the print.
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DO IT YOURSELF
When the pattern has been drawn, take the printout in 600 to 1200 dpi on a translucent or butter paper. Keep the paper side on which the toner is deposited facing down over the copper-laminated boards copper side. And then when the board is turned component-side up, the pattern on the conductor will be found properly aligned with the components. Finally, take a printout of the PCB. and try again. You should get it right after a couple of tries. When youve done that, the paper will stick to the PCB. Now you have to remove the paper from the PCB again. This can be done easily by putting the PCB (with paper) into hot water. Use a container filled with hot water (130F or 140F), letting the board soak for ten or more minutes. It works best when the PCB is still hot from the iron. After that, the paper will peel off easily. (If Epson photo paper is used, you dont have to soak the board as the paper will come off right away.) If the paper underneath is still a little dry, put the board back into water for another few minutes. Inspect the conductor thoroughly to check whether it has transferred properly onto the copper plate. Dig the bristles on the tip of a soft toothbrush (not one with metal bristles!) into the holes, while lightly making circular motions, to remove the paper residue from small or tight areas, especially from the drill-hole marks, and any small text. Make necessary corrections using a Sharpie or other etch-resistant black-ink marker pen. Now cut the PCB to the required size. For the purpose, a bandsaw comes handy. You may need the appropriate fine-tooth hacksaw blade the one used for cutting metals. A double-side PCB has copper on the solder side as well as on the component side. Scrub the component side with the scrub sponge, using the same method as used for the copper side. Then do an acetone rub with a paper towel until no more dirt comes off. Then allow to air-dry for a minute. Hold the board and the components printout paper together (with components pattern on the board) in front of very bright light to align the component markings (if any) with the holes pattern. If your board isnt translucent, this method may be a problem. Then iron the paper having component-side pattern onto the copper-laminated board. Put the board along with the paper in hot water and peel off the top layer of the paper using the same technique as used for the solder side.
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Taking the PCB layout print using a laser printer

Take the printout of the circuit layout from a laser printer on an HP premium inkjet paper. (Use/select the highest DPI setting to get the maximum deposit of the toner on the paper.) You may also use Canons glossy photo paper GP-301N, or Epsons photo paper or special Novatrace paper from Technova Imaging Systems. The idea is to use a coated paper so that the toner comes loose when heated (during pattern transfer process), which would transfer a sharp, black print (toner transfer) onto the copper laminate. Print for each of the required layers should be taken on separate paper.

Some of the tools used for PCB fabrication

PCB touch-up using marker pen

Transfer of the conductor pattern

First, scrub the copper side of the copper-clad laminate used for the PCB board with a sponge. The scrubbing step does two things: 1. Removes oxidation, stains, etc, so that the copper laminate surface of the PCB becomes uniform and shiny. 2. Makes the copper surface somewhat rough, which helps the toner to adhere to the copper surface. The next step is to degrease the board thoroughly using a paper towel soaked with acetone solvent. (Also used as nailpolish remover, the acetone is a colourless liquid with a distinct smell and evaporates quickly. It is flammable and dissolves in water. It is also called dimethyl ketone, 2propanone, and beta-ketopropane.) Keep doing it until (almost) no more discoloration is seen on the paper towel. Rub hard and keep switching to clean parts of the towel.
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Ferric chloride pack for etching copper-clad boards

Place and align the paper (with the toner side down) on the copper side, using an electric cloth iron heated to the maximum setting (usually marked linen) on the back of the paper. Pressing firmly, heat the entire pattern for at least half a minute. Depending on the size of the PCB, the entire heating/ironing process usually takes two to three minutes. If you let the paper move or overheat, the tracks and text will get smeared, out of focus and wrinkled up. If you dont apply enough heat evenly, the film or toner may not stick or be dark enough. In that case, clean off the PCB by washing the board with lacquer thinner to remove the toner

DO IT YOURSELF
of warm rust in colour when fresh and gradually turns dull brownish-green after much use. To start with, you require two containers: a small one and a bigger one. Dilute the concentrated ferric chloride fluid with water (1:1) and pour into the one-litre plastic container (smaller container). Place a sheet of newspaper on a flat surface and put the bigger container on this. Fill the kettle with water and boil it to, say, 100C. Pour boiling water into the bigger container, then place the other container on top. Heating the etchant in this way speeds up the etching process. Gently rock the top container or swish the board to keep the etch fluid moving, avoiding spillage. You can attach the PCB to a wooden piece and dip into the solution as shown in the figure. Lift up the PCB and check whether all the unwanted copper is removed. Instead of attaching to a wooden piece, you may also use latex gloves. Now you can hold the PCB in your hand and either sweep it back and forth in the etchant or hold it flat and push it up and down vertically. Keep an eye on the progress of copper being removed. Etching for too long (any longer than the requirement) will degrade the quality of the finished boards tracks, especially the edges. After about 15 minutes, all of the unwanted copper will disappear. Remove the board and immerse it into a bucket of cold water to clean off. Many people prefer ammonium persulphate as the etchant. One big advantage is that it is transparent, allowing you to see the progress of etching without removing the board from the etchant solution. When etching solution is used for a much longer time, the etchant becomes weak. You can add a common chemical to ferric chloride to rejuvenate it. Hydrochloric acid may be used but I have not tried it yet. You can also make your own etchant in case you find it difficult to get ferric chloride. Hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide is one mixture that can be used as etchant. You can find details like the proper concentraWWW.EFYMAG.COM

PCB submerged into etching solution

Etched PCB

Note. The bare copper-clad board can be purchased from http:// dir.indiamart.com/indianexporters/ e_board.html.

Etching
Etch the unwanted copper from the board using the ferric chloride solution. To get the ferric chloride etchant, you may visit the website www.indianchemicalportal.com/ferric-chloride.html. If it is in powdered form, mix with water to make one pint of etchant. (1 pint is about half of a litre.) With regular stirring, etching will take 20 minutes or longer depending on how many times the solution has been used before. One pint can etch at least 3.6 sq. metres (a couple square feet) of the 28gm board. Ferric chloride is actually a salt, not an acid. It is usually supplied in liquid form at 45- or 46 Baum (a measure of concentration) and can be diluted to 42 Baum (as measured by a hydrometer) for etching purpose. For soft-ground etching, a dilution to 32 Baum is good. Ferric chloride is a sort
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DO IT YOURSELF
Pad and hole sizes
Pad sizes. Pad sizes are determined by the size of the lead or device to be inserted in the hole. The thicker the device leg, the larger the pad. This will secure the device and prevent damage to the board or tracks if the device is moved while fixed to the board. Minimum pad size: Hole size + 20 mil Minimum pad clearance: 10 mil Minimum pad size for VIA: 50 mil with a hole size of 28 mil Hole sizes. Using the standard drill sizes as shown in the table will ensure that your board is produced quickly and accurately: You can use a PCB hand drill, which is readily available in the market. You may also use a regular floor-standing drill press, set at its highest revolutions per minute (RPM). The solid-carbide PCB bits, about 1 mm or smaller in dia, are recommended, but for larger homes 3mm bits can be used. The bits are hard and brittle, and break very easily. Use a 0.8mm PCB drill bit to drill out all of the component holes (refer to the box for pad and hole sizes). Some 1mm holes may need to be made for connectors, and 3mm holes for corner fixings. But before the drilling, make a small guidance dent with the drill bit. It helps in centering the small drill later and this means that the drill bit wears down less quickly. Finally, use scrub sponge to clean off any dust particle on the PCB ready for soldering. After drilling and cleaning, wash the board in cold water. Dry it off and clean with PCB solvent cleaner. The cleaner prevents copper from corroding and also acts as the soldering flux. Now your PCB is ready! It will take about 25 minutes to fabricate your own PCB after you have mastered the procedure. A plate-through hole (PTH) is used for interconnection of conductors on both sides of the circuit board. Instead of the PTH technique, you can use any conducting wire, say, copper, to interconnect the conductors. Just insert the wires through the drilled holes and solder the end points on the respective sides.

Standard Drill Sizes

24 mil 28 mil 32 mil 36 mil 40 mil 44 mil 48 mil 52 mil 56 mil 60 mil 64 mil 68 mil 72 mil 80 mil 84 mil 88 mil 96 mil 100 mil 108 mil 112 mil 125 mil 132 mil 140 mil 152 mil 160 mil 168 mil 180 mil 200 mil 220 mil 240 mil 242 mil 260 mil

tions and ratios from the Google search.

Drying and toner removal

When etching is complete, remove the board from the solution and rinse it under the running tap water. Tapping or striking the edge of the board sharply on a hard surface can help to dislodge any liquid thats still in the holes. Now all thats left to be done is to remove the toner. Acetone or lacquer thinner works just fine for that. A lacquer thinner is a chemical constituted by benzene and lead (or a mixture of petroleum and benzene). It is usually used as a solvent in the painting industry. Wash the board in the laquer thinner solvent, rubbing with a paper towel, to remove the toner instantly. In fact, the toner holds so darn well that an abrasive is required to get it off after etching.

Caution
Lacquer thinner is extremely volatile, inflammable and explosive. Acetone can irritate your eyes and respiratory system, and make you dizzy. Ferric chloride is corrosive, so avoid skin and eye contact. Use of safety glasses, gloves and protective overalls are recommended. If the etching stuff gets spilled on metal (like a door handle, or the kitchen sink), youre in for some real trouble. Wipe and flush any accidental spills with lots of water immediately. It wont burn you under normal circumstances, but it will stain almost anything.
The author is a lab engineer at EFY
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Drilling and cleaning

Some people suggest drilling before you etch. But if you drill after etching, the etched hole marks help guide the drill bit into themselves, especially on small pads and when holes are very close together, or when the drill/bit is a little wobbly.
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