searching for the perfect premises, although SW1X was always the desired location (I am totally enchanted by Belgravia,

she enthuses when we meet). Nevenas space, although pristine, feels like an artisans workshop. Rich velvets, gauzy chiffons and pretty laces (one of the designers favourite materials to craft), are lined up neatly in one corner of the room to tantalise sartorial palates. Garment patterns and pieces in various stages of construction litter the velvet coffee table, although these are normally confined to the designers sewing room, only on show today to highlight Nevenas precision and attention to detail. More regal mannequins stand in each corner, proudly showcasing a striking Nevena Couture look: from a powder blue knee-length lace dress, to a show-stopping ivory princess dress featuring delicate floral appliqus. I am already beginning to form a favourable opinion of the designer (who crafts everything from hand with the assistance of several trusted seamstresses), before she even enters the room. A petite, slender lady, it is her shock of pinkish red, mermaid-hair that first captures the eye. I also quickly realise that she is never without a genuine smile on her face either, putting me instantly at ease. When prompted, Nevena launches into a description of her background and it is not quite what one might expect from a person so entrenched in the world of fashion. I came

The art of

Katie Randall steps into couture with Nevena Nikolova, the latest sartorial tastemaker to enter the Belgravian fold and the founder of Nevena Couture

Craft

I am totally enchanted by Belgravia

to design late. After spending several years studying languages, first German at The German School, then Scandinavian languages at Sofia University, I won a government scholarship to The University of Oslo and graduated in 1999. For many years, I was translating prose literature in German and Norwegian because I love writing and I pay huge attention to how things are recorded on paper. I am an avid reader myself. Nevenas academic outlook translates into the world of fashion, as she views her creations as a form of language: My next move was to follow an ambition of mine, something that I always knew deep in my heart would happen: to design garments. I view my clothes and the creative process as a way to express myself and cannot imagine life without designing. The work is not very different to my previous job, its just like speaking a different language. The designer is also a passionate supporter of the arts and a pianist, as well as being fascinated by politics and current affairs. I cannot just be creative, however, she tells me. I am driven by a desire to learn and to create, but I also need to be business-minded and conscientious, especially as my company grows and I manage a large team. Nevena learnt her skills from her mother and since childhood has worked long and hard to perfect her craft. She jokes that as a young girl she would spend hours stitching, unpicking and re-stitching her work until it was absolutely flawless. Fingering a few of her garments in the process of being made, it is evident that the quest for perfection is still very much a focus for Nevena, and it always will be.

magine a great flood threatening to destroy all that we hold dear. Dear reader, please stick with me and read on, I have a point, I promise. If a modern-day Noah were to painstakingly build an ark I know who I would want on board. As a cross-section of society joined this great ship two-by-two, its craftsmen and women that I would be herding towards the front of the queue. Across a variety of different mediums, craftsmen shape our quotidian lives and none more so, perhaps, than the talented people who make the very clothes on our back. One such artistic, sartorially-minded craftswoman has just settled in Belgravia Lowndes Street to be precise and will conjure (by appointment only) the most delectable, delicate and divine garments for her clients. When we heard in the Journal HQ that the ephemeral Bulgarian fashion designer Nevena Nikolovas gaze had settled on London, we were beside ourselves with excitement. Garnering status akin to that of a celebrity in her homeland,

the designer is a true champion of craftsmanship and regularly showcases her fabulous creations in big fashion shows in Sofia. As Nevena explains when we meet in her elegant studio: The right dress is a powerful weapon. It is a shelter; it gives you the ultimate freedom to be yourself... My fashion is not art or conceptual, it is modern and elegant craftsmanship that enables you to feel beautiful and comfortable. As I ascend the stairs which lead to Nevenas first floor studio space, I am greeted with the sight of multifarious exquisite garments showcased on mannequins. If they act as titbits to whet the appetite, consider my interest piqued. The clothes are simple and elegant with subtle flourishes, yet even in passing, I can plainly see that they are meticulously constructed. The designers studio is a sizable and very private room, minimalist in decor, with enough space to bring friends and family along for advice if undergoing a fitting for an important garment. It later transpires that Nevena and her team spent a while

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I begin to wonder how she combats bodies in her designs, however, which are notoriously irregular in both shape and size. Previous research reveals that Nevena is something of a body doctor and I am intrigued to learn more. When I view a body, I am looking at the bone structure and shape, which then informs my designs. If someone has a slightly sloped shoulder, for example, I can equalise the torso in my clothes creating a sleeker line, Nevena tells me. Everyone has something on their body that they would like to improve, it is my job to hide the imperfections and to craft perfect proportions. She admits that it is extremely important for her to encourage her clients to feel comfortable in their own skin, but adds: I would never lie to a client one must be very honest and guide them towards clothing that looks fantastic on them and makes them feel extraordinary. Every detail must be tailored to the person, from the cut and material, down to the perfect shade to match their skintone. This is what makes the difference between a Nevena Couture piece and other garments in your wardrobe. Such an elevated level of service is quite a rare occurrence in the modern atelier. Normally, one would choose a style and have it fitted by an expert, but Nevena actually creates a look for her customer from scratch and every single detail is crafted with them in mind. It is totally

When I view a body, I am looking at the bone structure and shape, which then informs my designs
bespoke. The garment bares the owners soul, she smiles. At this moment, a striking lace catches my eye, a pattern which Nevena reveals is from Sophie Hallette, the iconic French artisans responsible for the lace used in the Duchess of Cambridges wedding dress. I suppose about 95 per cent of my lace is from the label as they produce the most exceptional work on old English looms. However, I worked with the exact lace pattern long before the Duchess of Cambridges beautiful dress was created, the designer explains. Working with this delicate material is no mean feat, it takes time and skill. When the lace arrives on her cutting table, for example, Nevena must then evaluate it before a scissor even gets close to making the first incision. Sometimes the lace pattern is uneven and the cut must compensate for this or minor adjustments must be made to regulate the shape, I learn. For her feminine designs, Nevena tells me that she leaves no stone unturned and sources materials herself from France and Italy. She chuckles when I ask her how she checks all the newly imported materials if she is out of the country (currently Nevena splits her time between Bulgaria and the UK, although the majority of her time is spent in Belgravia). I have an eagles eye, she says. I can spot an imperfection even on Skype (where I liaise with clients if I am out of the country). It can be exhausting because I always expect perfection, but we work until everything meets my standards. My team is very devoted. I assume her discerning clients also expect the very

best and enquire about the different types of women she designs for. Oh everyone, Nevena says. Recently, I created a wedding gown for a bride. It was a fairytale dress for an absolute princess and the bride has now become a friend. I spend a lot of time with bridal clients, listening and preparing to create the dress of their dreams. It is a journey. She adds: We spent a long time choosing different laces for this particular brides dress. I always start with the material for inspiration. And how many fittings can it take to conjure a very intricate a gown, I wonder? The answer is approximately three to five for daywear and up to six for a gown. Nevena will not charge per fitting and makes an extra effort to be available out of normal working hours for clients that have busy lives. I spend a lot of time talking to new clients and, although I am never intrusive, I encourage them to bring me pictures that they are inspired by so that I can get a sense of their personal style, she tells me. When we touch upon the subject of Belgravia, the designers face lights up. I remember the day that my mother Katie and I first visited Belgravia. It was a cold winters day, but there was magic in the air, she exclaims. Having all of the fabulous businesses close by is important, from Errol Douglas to Philip Treacy and Pierre Herm. You might see the designer with family and friends exploring the streets of the local area they love nearby Motcomb Street, Kinnerton Street and all of the mews houses for inspiration. I have lived in Norway and West Berlin for several years but London and Belgravia is my real home, I feel like myself here, she says. I love escaping to this studio as I can really work. When I am our boutique in Sofia (Bulgaria) everyone needs my attention. We have big glass windows and so people can see me and come to me for

my opinion and advice. I always have time for my team but it means that I end up getting less done. I am grateful that Nevena has made time for me. In between house visits to guide her clients on their wardrobes, designing for jet-setting brides and prominent fashion editors, as well as sourcing materials from all over the world, it is a wonder that she is so calm and composed. After meeting with the designer, I am certain that her loyal legions of fans, and some new recruits, will follow her anywhere. Nevena has found her spiritual home in Belgravia and I dont imagine her work will stay secret for long. Nevena Couture operates by appointment only, for more information visit nevena.co.uk and to book a consultation call 020 3539 8738. Lowndes Street, SW1X

All photography by Saskia Beresford (saskiaberesfordphotography.com)

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