ECO SUBSTITUTES IN TEXTILE

Introduction
Chemical Substitution Many chemicals currently used in the textile industry influence the environment. Sometimes these chemicals can be substituted by other chemicals. The total quantity of chemicals used in textile mills varies from 10% to over 100% the weight of the cloth. This is not always easy due to the lack of information about BOD data and aquatic toxicity of the chemicals and due to the proprietary nature of specialty chemicals. A recommendation many mills get is to substitute low BOD chemicals for chemicals with a high BOD. These low BOD chemicals will help to reduce the waste load of the mills effluent. However, little is known about the long-term effects of these products. Potential negative effects of some chemicals on the environment are, 1) Alkyl phenol ethoxylates (detergents, wetting agents, levelling agents, etc.): their metabolites (octyl- and nonyl phenols) are highly toxic to aquatic life and are reported to disturb the reproduction of aquatic species. 2) Polybrominated diphenyl ethers and chlorinated paraffins (flame retardants), halogenated phenols and benzenes (reagents in the production of flame retardants): some members of these classes of substances (e.g. pentabromodiphenylether, C10-13 chloroparaffines) have already been identified as Priority Hazardous Substances for their toxicity. 3) Sequestering agents such as EDTA and DTPA and NTA: these are capable of forming very stable complexes with metals (EDTA and DTPA are also poorly bioeliminable). 4) Chlorine and chlorine-releasing compounds such as sodium hypochlorite (bleaching agent). 5) Metal-containing compounds such as potassium dichromate.

Eco Substitution The main environmental issues associated with textile industry arise from emissions to water. The changing face of environmental legislation is causing serious problems for industries many and the textile industry is no exception. A new parameter

that today increasingly vital is ecology. The logo of eco-labeling is becoming an increasingly important factor. Worldwide environmental problems associated with the textile industry are typically those associated with the water pollution caused by the discharge of untreated effluents and those because of use of toxic chemicals especially during processing. These chemicals can harm consumer if retained in the fabric. There is always a danger to the workforce in the industry via air, direct contact, accidental exposure etc. Hence the substitution of the non eco-friendly auxiliaries will only serve towards the consumer and the environment. The eco norms are also becoming stringent these days. Thus it is increasingly becoming necessary for the industry to adapt the novel trends, which are benevolent to the nature. 1

Dyeing
Several auxiliary chemicals are added to the bath during the dyeing processes. The mixtures are often developed to solve problems specific to the process. Some specialty chemicals are developed to counteract or enhance the effects of other chemicals. In other cases, the specialty chemicals cause side effects that are detrimental to the overall process. For example, wetting agents are often added to preparation and dyeing steps to ensure penetration of chemicals. Apart from a few exceptions (e.g. the thermosol process, pigment dyeing, etc.), most of the emissions originating from the dyeing process are emissions to water. Water-polluting substances can originate from the dyes themselves (e.g. aquatic toxicity, metals, colour), auxiliaries contained in the dye formulation (e.g. dispersing agents, anti-foaming agents, etc.). Basic chemicals and auxiliaries used in dyeing processes are alkali, salts, reducing and oxidising agents, etc and residual contaminants present on the fiber (e.g. residues of pesticides on wool, spin finishes on synthetic fibres). 2, 3 Pre-reduced sulphur dyestuffs (liquid formulations with sulphide content <1 %) or nonprereduced sulfide-free dyestuffs are available in various different forms (water-soluble in the oxidized, powder, liquid form, or in stable suspension). All these dyestuffs can be reduced without any sodium sulfide, using glucose alone (only in one case) or in combination with dithionite, hydroxyacetone or formamidine sulphinic acid. Stabilized non-pre-reduced sulfide free dyestuffs are reported to be more expensive than the other types of sulphur dyes.

Precautions while dyeing with disperse dyes 1) Avoid the use of hazardous carriers by (in order of priority). 2) Use of non-carrier dyeable polyester fibres (modified PET or PTT-type) 3) Substituting conventional dye carriers with compounds based on benzylbenzoate and N-alkylphthalimide .Replacing sodium dithionite with reducing agent based on sulphinic acid derivatives. This should be combined with measures in order to ensure that only the strict amount of reducing agent needed to reduce the dyestuff is consumed (e.g. by using nitrogen to remove oxygen from the liquor and from the air in the machine). Dyeing with sulphur dyes 1) Replace conventional powder and liquid sulphur dyes with stabilised non-pre-reduced Sulphide-free dyestuffs or with pre-reduced liquid dye formulations with a sulphide content of less than 1 % 2) Replace sodium sulphide with sulphur-free reducing agents or sodium dithionite, in that order of preference 3) Adopt measures to ensure that only the strict amount of reducing agent needed to reduce the dye solutions. 4) Use of hydrogen peroxide as oxidising agent. Sulphur-containing reducing agents Waste water from sulphur dyeing contains sulphides used in the process as reducing agents. In some cases the sulfide is already contained in the dye formulation and in some other cases it is added to the dye bath before dyeing. In the end, however, the excess of sulfide ends up in the water. Sulphides are toxic to aquatic organisms and contribute to increasing COD load. In addition, sulphide anions are converted into hydrogen sulphide under acidic conditions, thereby giving rise to problems of odour and corrosivity. Sodium hydrosulphite (also called sodium dithionite) is another sulphur-containing reducing agent, which is commonly used not only in sulphur and vat dyeing processes, but also as reductive after-cleaning agent in polyester dyeing. Sodium hydrosulphite is less critical than sodium sulfide. However, during the dyeing process sodium dithionite is

converted into sulphite (toxic to fish and bacteria) and in some cases this is further oxidised into sulphate. 4, 5, 6 In the waste water treatment plant sulphite is normally oxidised into sulphate, but this can still cause problems. Sulphate, in fact, may cause corrosion of concrete pipes or may be reduced under anaerobic conditions into hydrogen sulphide.Hydroxyacetone, although it produces an increase in COD load, is recommended to lower the sulphur content in waste water, but it cannot replace hydrosulphite in all applications. Consumption of the reducing agent by the oxygen present in the machine (partially-flooded dyeing machines) needs also to be taken into account. Instead of applying only the amount of reducing agent required for the reduction of the dyestuff, a significant extra amount of reducing agent often needs to be added to compensate for the amount consumed by the oxygen contained in the machine. This obviously increases oxygen demand of the effluent. Oxidising agents Dichromate should be avoided as an oxidising agent when dyeing with vat and sulphur dyes, but it is still widely used for the fixation of chrome dyes in wool dyeing.Chromium III exhibits low acute toxicity, while chromium VI is acutely toxic and has been shown to be carcinogenic towards animals. During the dyeing processes with chrome dyes, CrVI is reduced to Cr III if the process is under control. Nevertheless, emissions of Cr VI may still occur due to inappropriate handling of dichromate during dye preparation (care must be taken as dichromate is carcinogenic and may cause health problems for workers handling it). The use of bromate, iodate and chlorite as oxidising agents in vat and sulphur dyeing processes and the use of hypochlorite as stripping agent for decolouring faulty goods or for cleaning dyeing machines (e.g. before subsequent lighter-coloured dyeing) may produce AOX emissions. However, only hypochlorite and elementalchlorine-containing compounds (e.g. certain chlorite products that contain chlorine or use chlorine as activator for formation of chlorine dioxide gas) are likely to give rise to hazardous AOX. Important precautions in dyeing for reducing pollution 1) Dyes found to be containing PCBs (e.g. certain sources of Cu-phtalocyanine) should be substituted immediately.
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2) Cadmium containing pigments should not be used. 3) Benzidine-based azo-dyes should not be used at all. 4) Carriers containing chlorine should not be used. 5) Reduction of dyes by sulphide should be avoided. Dichromate oxidation of vat dyes and sulphur dyes should be substituted by peroxide oxidation. 6) Azo dyes, which can, under reductive conditions, release aromatic amines, which are suspected carcinogens, should not be used. 7) Halogenated solvents and dispersants for dyes and chemicals should be substituted where possible by water-based systems. 8) Metal containing dyes (Cu, Cr, Ni, Co, etc.) should be substituted by other dyes or techniques. 9) In order to minimize the discharges of BOD, COD, etc. as well as of colored substances in case of repeated dyeing, the rinsing bath should be used as next dye bath, it the after-treatment chemicals are compatible with the dye bath chemicals.

Nonecofriendly chemical.

1)Carriers in polyester dyeing a)Diphenyl b)O-phenyl phenyl c)P-phenyl phenyl d)O-dichloro benzene e)Trichlorobenzene 2) Acetic acid (vat acid method of dyeing) 3) Sodium sulphide ,sodium hydrosulphide (Reduction of sulphur dyes ) 4)Potassium Dichromate (oxidation of sulphur dyes )

5)Sodium hydroxide and sodium hydrosulphite (reduction of vat dyes ) 6) EDTA, DTPA (sequestering agent) Hazards

1) Carriers in polyester dyeing. a)Affects central nervous system; Convolusions, Paralysis (high dose). b) Moderately toxic when ingested. c)Nausea ;Vomiting; Respiratory failure(high dose) d) Injury to liver and kidneys. e) Moderately toxic when inhaled. 2) Severe corrosion in mouth and gastrointestinal track when ingested, vomiting, nausea, eye irritation 3) Sodium sulphide: Corrosive; Inhalation: Irritation of upper respiratory tract.Skin Contact: Severe burns Eye Contact: Severe burns. Skin Absorption: May be harmful. Ingestion: Severe burns to mouth, throat, and stomach, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea Sodium hydrosulphide Solution is highly alkaline. Contains hydrogen sulphide , a highly toxic gas. Eye contact will cause marked eye irritation and possibly severe corneal damage. Skin contact will result in irritation and possible corrosion of the skin. Ingestion will irritate/burn mouth, throat and gastrointestinal tract. Contact with stomach acid will cause hydrogen sulfide vapors to be released. Heating or acid will cause hydrogen sulfide gas to evolve.

4) Possible carcinogen, eye contact can cause severe irritation and burns with possible damage, skin allergy, may affect kidneys if ingested. 5) Sodium Hydroxide is a corrosive solid or liquid and can cause severe burns of the eyes, resulting in blindness. Sodium hydrosulpite is spontaneously Combustible If inhaled, could be harmful. Contact could cause burns to skin and eyes. Fire could produce irritating or poisonous gases. Runoff from fire-control or dilution water could cause pollution. Eco- substitute 6) Contains elements which add to the water pollution. 1) Butyl benzoate. 2) Benzoic acid. 3) Glucose, mercapto ethanol. Sodium or potassium iodate, Peroxide 4) Indirect electrolysis (using mediator, redox system). 5) Contain N or P in their structure and are less biodegradable, contain heavy metals. 6) Closed circuit technique indirect electrolysis (using Remarks mediator, redox systems). 1) Suitable, less efficient. 2) Less efficient. 3) Above 90 4) Softer
0

C acts as good reducing agent .Absence of excellent fastness and color

obnoxious smells. handle reproducibility, High wet fastness 5) High rate of dye reduction 6) None of these products contains N or P in their molecular structure. In addition, the hydroxy carboxylic acids and sugar-acrylic acid copolymers are readily biodegradable.

Printing
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Printing, like dyeing, is a process for applying colour to a substrate. However, instead of colouring the whole substrate (cloth, carpet or yarn) as in dyeing, print colour is applied only to defined areas to obtain the desired pattern. This involves different techniques and different machinery with respect to dyeing, but the physical and chemical processes that take place between the dye and the fiber are analogous to dyeing. Emission sources typical of printing processes are 1) Printing paste residues. 2) Waste water from wash-off and cleaning operations. 3) Volatile organic compounds from drying and fixing. Drying and fixing are another important emission source in printing processes. The following pollutants may be encountered in the exhaust air 1) Aliphatic hydrocarbons (C10-C20) from binders. 2) Monomers such as acrylates, vinylacetates, styrene, acrylonitrile, acrylamide, butadiene. 3) Methanol from fixation agents. 4) Other alcohols, esters, polyglycols from emulsifiers. 5) Formaldehyde from fixation agents. 6) Ammonia (from urea decomposition and from ammonia present, for example, in pigment printing pastes). 7) N-methylpyrrolidone from emulsifiers. 8) Phosphoric acid esters. 9) Phenylcyclohexene from thickeners and binders. 7

Non ecofriendly chemical.

1) Polysaccharides ,polyacrylates ,CMC derivatives 2)Urea 3) Kerosene 1) High COD hard to degrade 2)High levels of nitrogen contributes to

Hazards

eutrophication 3)Highly inflammable ;Irritation eyes, skin, nose, throat; burning sensation in chest; headache, nausea, lassitude (weakness, Eco- substitute exhaustion), restlessness 1)Guar gum, sodium alginate 2) There exists an agent, based on polyacrylic printing. 3) Water based colorants acids, which is able to substitute urea by up to 70% during cotton

Remarks

1) Less efficient, costly 2) The problem, however, is lower colour intensity during printing. 3) Dull shades may be obtained.

Finishing
Ways to reduce pollution in finishing 1) Finishing chemicals should be reused whenever possible 2) Reducing the use of formaldehyde releasing chemicals as much as possible. Formaldehyde should be replaced with polycarboxylic. Alkylphenol should be replaced with fatty alcoholethoxylates 3) Replacement of acetic acid (used for pH adjustment in resin finishing bath) with formic or mineral acids to reduce BOD load. 4) Using formaldehyde- free cross-linking agents for cellulose textiles and formaldehyde-free dye-fixing agents. 5) Using formaldehyde scavengers during application and storage of resin finished goods.

6) Dimethylol or dihydroxythlene urea used in anti-wrinklefinishing should be substituted by polycarboxylic acids, mainly 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid or glyoxales. 7) MAC Complexing agents like DTDMAC, DSDMAC, DHTDMAC used in softening finishing should be replaced with cellulose enzymes. 8) Asbestos, halogenated Compounds like bromated diphenylethers and heavy metal containing compounds used in flame retardant finishing should be replaced by inorganic salts and phosphonates. 8 9) Biocides such as chlorinated phenols, metallic salts (As, Zn, Cu, or Hg), DDE,DDT and benzothiazole used in preservation finishing should be substituted by UV treatment and, or mechanical processes or by enzymatic finishing. 10) In case of using fireproofing chemicals, the best technique is that which consumes minimal amounts of water (such as Vacuum, back coating, foam) or techniques leading to minimal of residues particularly (e.g. foam). 11) The use of hazardous chemicals for the conservation of textiles should be minimized, either through substitution or through tailor-made selective use to only those textiles which are exposed to possible environmental degradation. 12) Limitation of the chlorination stage in wool shrink proofing by substitution of other techniques (e.g. peroxygen treatment). 13) It is more recommended to build in the finishing chemicals into the fiber during production or during spinning than applying the finish at a later stage 14) Concentrated residues from finishing should not be discharged. They should be reused or treated as waste. In case of mothproofing agent-contaminated water, the volume of bath should be reduced by employing e.g. mini-bowls, modified centrifuges or foam treatment during back coating laminating or carpets. 9 In case of mothproofing finish, wastewater should be treated in such a way that excessive sludge is avoided. This sludge should preferably be incinerated as chemical waste or detoxified by wet (catalysed) oxidation
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Softening

Softeners - Softeners give a soft feel to the fabric. They are also used with starch and other additives to give softness and body to the fabric. Different types of softeners like cationic, reactive and emulsion are available. Except silicone softeners, all others are temporary and get washed off after two or three washes. Silicones also give water repellency, which is fast to washing and dry cleaning. It is compatible with other finishing agents. It can be easily applied on the cloth. Air porosity is not altered in fabrics treated with silicones. 1 Problems associated: 1) Many times the exhaustion of the softening agent is low which causes health problems if the softener is hazardous. 2) Unpleasant odor of the softening agents. 3) Skin irritation. 4) Softener is not biodegradable. Non ecofriendly chemical.
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Polysiloxanes and derivatives (Softening agents) Quaternary ammonium siloxanes. Fatty acid modified melamine resins Skin allergies 1) Vinyl and acrylic copolymers Polymeric softeners, Cellulose enzymes 2)Epoxy modified silicones 1) Good results are obtained 2) Do not require emulsifying agent

Hazards Eco- substitute

Remarks

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 Purpose

Durable press finishes

Cellulosic fibers like cotton dont have natural bridges or cross-links between them. When deformed under stress (washing or wrinkling) the cellulose chains do not return to their original position. Therefore durable press finishes are given to the cotton fabrics to impart smooth drying properties and dimensional stability. Cross-linking agents are used to produce wash and wear and durable press properties. They are applied on fabrics which can be washed easily and dried to a smooth state. They exhibit excellent crease recovery. For preparing rein finished fabric the textile is impregnated with a solution of resin containing a catalyst, dried and cured at high temperature Examples: Urea formaldehyde resin, dimethyl dihydroxy ethylene urea. . 11,12,13,14 Problems associated with durable press finish 1) Most of the DP finishes contain formaldehyde as a cross linking agent . Formaldehyde is at toxic substance when present in gaseous as well as dissolved form. 2) Formaldehyde is believed to be carcinogenic causing lung cancer when the test was performed on rats. 3) It is a severe eye irritant dissolves in eye fluid resulting in inflammation. Remedy 1) Partial replacement of N-methylol group with zero formaldehyde content. 1,15,16 2) Formaldehyde scavengers. 3) Efficiency of local ventilation. 4) Control of atmospheric conditions since high temperature and humidity increase rate of formaldehyde release. 5) Extensive use of steam pressing and forming operations in garments forming. Non ecofriendly chemical. 1) Urea formaldehyde resin, Ethylene urea and Melamaine derivatives in their uncross-

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linked form 2) Dimethyl dihydroxy ethylene urea. Hazards (DMDHEU) Ammonia liberated 1)Formaldehyde released is carcinogenic. Free formaldehyde irritates the mucosa, might cause inflammation of the eyes and can provoke allergic reaction. 2) Formaldehyde released is carcinogenic. Ammonia hazards: Respiratory discomfort due to ammonia vapors, can irritate eyes and skin, shortness of breath, Eco- substitute nausea, vomiting. 1)Butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA)( an organic acid) 2)Citric acid mixed with a polymer of maleic acid 3)Phosphonoalkylpolycarboxylic acids in combinay Remarks in combination with polyacrylic acid 1)Bulk production is costly 2)Superior
5,31,32

wrinkle-free

performance,

good

laundering durability, and high strength retention 3)Durable press performance equal to that of dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea (DMDHEU) Also exhibit from about 10 to about 20 percent better retention of fabric strength than DMDHEU

Stone Washing

Biostoning and the closely related process of biopolishing are perhaps attracting most current attention in the area of enzyme processing. Conventional stone washing uses abrasive pumice stones in a tumbling machine to abrade and remove particles of indigo dyestuff from the surfaces of denim yarns and fabric. Cellulase enzymes can also cut

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through cotton fibres and achieve much the same effect without the damaging abrasion of the stones on both garment and machine; moreover, there is no need for the timeconsuming and expensive removal of stone particles from the garments after processing. Machine capacity can be improved by 30-50% due to reduce processing times; product variability is reduced and there is also less sludge deposited in the effluent. 1, 10 Disadvantages can include degradation of the fabric and loss of strength as well as 'backstaining' (discoloration of the white weft yarn, resulting in loss of contrast). A slight reddening of the original indigo shade can also occur. However, careful selection of neutral or alkaline cellulases able to function in the pH range 6-8, albeit at higher cost and reduced activity compared with acid cellulases (pH 4.5-5.5) can control these problems. Now, processors are learning to play more sophisticated tunes such as achieving a peach skin finish by use of a combination of stones and neutral cellulase. Biostoning was first introduced to the European industry in 1989 and spread to the USA in 1990; its application is now global. Uptake by specialist denim garment processors is almost 100% and provides an excellent example of how rapidly and completely a biotechnology-based process can transform an industry. However, the economic advantages of the process are unusually clear cut and directly benefit the immediate user, the stonewasher. Initially, consumers noticed little or no difference to the products they bought; there was therefore no need to promote and sell the new idea to a wider market. This is only just beginning now as the scope of the technology for producing more sophisticated finishes emerges. Biopolishing employs basically the same cellulase action to remove fine surface fuzz and fibrils from cotton and viscose fabrics. The polishing action thus achieved helps to eliminate pilling and provides better print definition, colour brightness, surface texture, drapeability and softness without any loss of absorbency. Biopolishing can be used to clean up the fabric surface after the primary fibrillation of a peach skin treatment and prior to a secondary fibrillation process which imparts interesting fabric aesthetics. Both batch and continuous processes can be employed as long as there is some degree of mechanical action to detach the weakened fibers. One area that still poses problems is that of tubular cotton finishing. Here the fiber residues tend to be trapped inside the fabric rather than washed away. The technology was first

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developed in Japan as far back as 1988 and used for softening and smoothing of cotton fabrics without the application of other chemicals; it was also used to upgrade ramie as a cotton and linen substitute, and to upgrade lower qualities of cotton. BIOFINASE NC-400 functions at concentrations from 0.4% to 0.8% owg. 3. BIOFINASE NC-400 is for use in specialty denim processing in combination with or without pumice stones. Directions for Use 1) Add water for cellulase step at a liquor ratio of 6.1 to 10:1. 2) The water level should be just enough to cover the garments and be below wheel rib. This Enzyme delivers minimum back staining when used with or without Pumice Stones. Non-ecofriendly chemical. Hazards Sodium hypochlorite /potassium permanganate (applied on pumice stones ) The substance decomposes on heating to 200C, producing toxic and corrosive fumes, causing fire and explosion hazard. The substance is a strong oxidant and reacts violently with combustible and reducing materials. Reacts violently with acids,ammonium compounds, phosphorus, sulfur, sodium dithionate,causing explosion hazard. Sore throat; Skin Redness; Eyes Redness Eco- substitute 1)Acid cellulase enzyme ( biofade ) 2) Neutral cellulose. 3) BIOFINASE NC-400 is an Enzyme system which is primarily CelloBioHydrolase & Endogluconase activity Remarks along with other side activities. 1) Excellent grain effect. 2) Stone wash look with small grain patterns. 3) This Enzyme delivers minimum back staining when used with or without Pumice Stones. Soil Release agents

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Soil release is the term used for a finish with hydrophilic character which allows the soil to penetrate the fabric during wear but comes into action during washing when its special functional groups transfer the soil from the fabric to the wash liquor. Soil repellent or anti soiling agents envelope the fiber surface so that the soil matter sticks very loosely to it. 17 Soil release agents remove soil from the fabric and transfer it to the detergent. The main factors affecting the soiling are textile structure electrostatic charge moisture regain of the fiber and the particle size. Examples: acid acrylates, ethoxylated alkyl phenols, flourochemicals, substituted polyehtylene and polypropylene glycols etc. 18

Non ecofriendly chemical. Hazards Eco- substitute Remarks

Ethoxylated alkyl phenols Add to the water pollution Flurochemicals Gives both stain and cleaning.

soil

repellant

properties, stable to laundering and dry

Flame retardants

Fire retardancy involves the disruption of the burning process so that it is terminated within an acceptable time period. In designing polymeric flame-retardant, three approaches can be adopted: 1. Designing the basic polymer so that exposure to heat and oxygen will not produce combustion. This requires thermally stable polymers with high decomposition temperatures. 19 2. Transforming the existing polymer with either chlorination or substitution or Polyol. (This category is called the reactive type flame-retardant.) 20 3. Adding either inorganic salts or organic compounds so that the polymer performs satisfactorily when exposed to fire. (This category is called the additive type flame retardants). Silicone is considered a universal additive to improve the flammability properties of polymers. The uniqueness of silicon flame-retardant is that the hydrogen

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chloride formed in the combustion zone immediately takes part in flame inhibition and is thus very effective. Flammability of a large number of materials is reduced in the presence relatively small concentrations of silica gel and potassium carbonate. 23,8 Flame-retardant finishing has become more and more important and is compulsory for some articles. Flame-retardant treatments should protect the fiber from burning, without modifying the handle, the color or the look of the fabric. 21 They are generally applied to cotton and synthetic fibers (e.g. they are important in the furniture sector for upholstery fabric). In some specific cases, in particular in the carpet sector (e.g. contract market, aviation), they can also be required for wool, even though this fiber is already inherently flame resistant. Flame-retardant properties are achieved by the application of a wide range of chemicals, which either react with the textile or are used as additives. 22 Non ecofriendly chemical. Organo-phosphorous and Polybrominated organic compounds Halogenated hydrocarbons Possibly carcinogenic. Allergic substances Inorganic salts and phosphonates Compatible results are obtained

Hazards Eco- substitute Remarks

Conclusion
Textile wet processing industry being the chief cause of pollution needs to be looked carefully from ecological point of view. Many hazardous chemicals are being used in the processing mainly because of easy availability, weaker pollution prevention laws, economy and sometimes lack of awareness. The important aspect, which is mostly forgotten, is the environment. Such chemicals are harmful to the consumers as well as the workforce in the industry, which is in the closest vicinity. Eco-substitutes for these chemicals will not only help the consumer but also the society, which is directly, affected by it. Also a close look at workers safety should be

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given, since they are the first who get affected by any immediate exposure. Some substitutes are even better and economical as far as their precursors are concerned. Hence use of such products should not be delayed. From environment and ecological point of view the use of enzymes also serve as substitutes, especially for preparatory process. These eco-friendly auxiliaries however are difficult to imply because of technical and cost issues. But the latest technologies as well as the impetus for environment care will definitely make these substitutes grand success. The motto of the textile process should then be substitution is better than cure ".

References
1) Achawal W.B, Colourage annual, page.97 (1998). 2) Nadiger G.S. Indian journal of fiber and textile research, Vol.26, March-June, page 55 (2001). 3) Patel Sudhakar B. Colourage December page 57 (1996) 4) Teli M.D., landge Sachin M., Aich Arnab,Indian journal of fiber and textile research Vol.26 ,March-June, page 101 (2001) 5) .Mairal A.K and.Patel M.J,Man made textiles in India March page 103 (2001). 6) .Tarporewala K.S and Ramkrishnan Rekha, Man made textiles in India November page 428 (2001). 7) V.A.Shenai Technology of printing 8) Marsh, An introduction to textile finishing,page 136,261 9) Bajaj P., Indian journal of textile fiber and research Vol 26 Page 162 (2001). 10) 41) Habereder P. and Attila B., Review of Progress in Colouration , 32 page 125 11) Schramm Christian, Bischof Sandra Vukusic and katovic Drago, Coloration Technology Vol118, page 244 (2002). 12) Welch C.M American dyestuff reporter.83 (9) Page 19. (1994). 13) Mostafa K.M., American dyestuff reporter c.m.85 (9) Page 85. (1996). 14) Cheng H and Kai, American dyestuff reporter.87 (3) Page 42 (1998). 15) Shenai V.A, Colourage September, page 61 (2002). 16) Shenai V.A, Indian journal of fiber and textile research,Vol 26 March June ,page 50 (2001).

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17) Jones David, European patent 1325164. (2002) 18) 40) Matusche Peter, European patents 1264036 (2002) 19) Welch E. U.S. Pat No. 4,820,307. (1989) 20) Blunden, USP 6372360 (2002). 21) Adachi Mayasuki, European patent 1247885. (2002) 22) 42) Zaikov G.E., Lomakin S.M., Journal of applied polymer science, 86/10, page a. 2449 (2002). 23) Cooper; John F U.S.patent 5456809. (1995)

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