March 2011

Dear friends, Last fall, a small bipartisan delegation of staffers from the Senate Foreign Relations Committee and Senator Inhofes office visited Tibet to meet with officials and assess current conditions there. Attached is their report, which we hope will be of interest to all those concerned with Tibetan issues. Sincerely, John F. Kerry, Chairman Richard G. Lugar, Ranking Member

Tibet:SeekingCommonGroundontheRooftopoftheWorld: AtripreportfromstaffoftheSenateForeignRelationsCommittee SubmittedbyFrankJannuzi,JayBranegan,NicholasMa,andJoelStarr Overview ThisbipartisanreportfromthestaffoftheSenateForeignRelationsCommitteepresentsour findingsfromavisittoTibetfromSeptember719,2010.FourstaffmembersoftheSenate ForeignRelationsCommittee,accompaniedbyofficialsfromtheU.S.EmbassyinBeijing, traveledtotheTibetAutonomousRegion(TAR)andTibetanregionsofWesternChina.Itwas thefirsttriptoTibetbySFRCstaffsinceAugust,2002,whenasevenpersondelegationtraveled for17daysintheTAR,QinghaiProvince,andGansuProvince.Thedelegationwasthefirst SenatestaffdelegationpermittedbyChineseauthoritiestotraveltoTibetsincelargescale peacefulprotestsandsomeriotsshooktheregioninMarch2008.Whileourdelegationwas inLhasa,theChinesegrantedformalapprovalforU.S.AmbassadorJonHuntsmantovisitTibet. Hisrequesthadbeenpendingforseveralweeks.AmbassadorHuntsmantraveledtoLhasaand toYushuCounty,inQinghaiProvince,inlateSeptember.

TherestoredPotalaPalaceincentralLhasa,thehistoricalofficialresidencefortheDalaiLama,drawshundreds ofthousandsoftouristsandpilgrimseachyear.(Jannuziphoto)

Thestaffdelegationwastheresultofmorethanayearofplanning,includingextensive consultationswiththeChinesegovernmentandrepresentativesofHisHolinesstheDalaiLama andotherTibetanexiles,withhumanrightsadvocacygroups,nongovernmentalorganizations, TibetanactivistsinsideChina,andChineseandWesternacademics.Theitinerarywasdesigned bytheSFRCstaffmemberstoprovideaglimpseintothelivesofTibetansfrommanywalksof lifeherders,monks,pilgrims,smallbusinessoperators,teachers.Itwasalsodesignedto provideaccesstobothruralandurbanareas.Thetriptoalargeextentreplicatedthe2002 visit,allowingstafftoassesschangesineconomicdevelopment,infrastructure,Hanmigration, monasteryrestoration,environmentalprotection,andotherfactorsofinterests.Anunstated, butmajorgoalofthedelegationwasalsotodemonstratecontinuedbipartisanCongressional concernabouthumanrightsandotherconditionsinsidetheTARandotherTibetanregionsof China. Chineseauthoritiesclearlyremainconcernedaboutthepossibilityofaresurgenceofsocial unrestinTibet,andseektoinsulatevisitorsfromencountersthatmighttarnishtheimageofan idyllic,modernizingTibet.InTibet,unlikeinmostotherpartsofChina,foreigntouristsmustbe partofatourgroup.Independenttourismremainsprohibited.Andallofficialvisitstothe TARarecarefullyscriptedbyChineseauthoritiestoemphasizethepositiveaspectsof development.Throughoutourofficial programintheTAR,wewere accompaniedbyofficialsfromtheChina PeoplesInstituteofForeignAffairs (CPIFA),theChineseForeignMinistry, andtheTibetForeignAffairsOffice.We werediscouragedfromdeviatingfrom theofficialprogram.Notwithstanding theseconstraints,however,staff membersenjoyedseveralhoursof unaccompaniedtimeeachmorningand evening.Chineseofficialsmadenoeffort toimpedeourmeanderingsthroughthe cityduringoffhours.Inadditiontoour officialmeetings,eachdaywetraveled unescortedaroundLhasa,observingcity lifeandchattingwithavarietyof residentsandvisitorstothecity. ChinaswillingnesstoopenTibetto foreignofficialvisitorsreflectsgrowing
TibetanpilgrimwithprayerwheelinfrontoftheJokhang TempleinLhasa.Noevidenceremainsoftheriotsthat scarredthisplazainthespringof2008.(Jannuziphoto)

confidenceamongChineseauthoritiesthatconditionsinTibethavestabilized,andthatthe Chinesegovernmenthasagoodstorytotellwithrespecttoeconomicdevelopmentand religiousfreedom.Shortlybeforeandafterthestaffdelegation,theChineseinvitedforeign journaliststotraveltoTibet,albeitontightlycontrolledvisitsthataffordedthejournalistsfew opportunitiestointeractwithaverageTibetans. ThedelegationfirstwenttoBeijing,arrivingonSeptember7.Afterashort,informalprebrief withU.S.embassyofficials,wehadthreeofficialmeetings:1)withtheUnitedFrontWork Department,whichhandlesnegotiationsbetweentheChinesegovernmentandrepresentatives oftheDalaiLama,theexiledTibetanspiritualleader;2)withtheChinesePeoplesInstituteof ForeignAffairs(CPIFA),theofficialsponsorofthetrip;and3)withresearchersattheChina TibetologyResearchCenter,agovernmentsponsoredinstitutestaffedmostlybyTibetan researcherswhoadvisethegovernmentonpolicyandconditionsinTibetanregionsofChina. Thenextday,September8,weflewtoXininginQinghaiProvince,westernChina,andmetwith officialsofthePeoplesCongressofQinghaiprovincebeforeboardingatrainforLhasa,Tibet. Followingthe25hourtraintripacrosstheTibetanplateau,wehadtwofulldaysofmeetingsin Lhasawithofficialsresponsibleforeconomicdevelopment,culturalheritage,education,and ethnicandreligiousaffairs.WewerealsotakentoamodelvillagejustoutsideLhasa,and visitedsomeoftheprominentculturalfeatures:theiconicPotalaPalace,traditionalhomeof theDalaiLama;Seramonastery,oneofthebiggestandmostimportantoftheGelukpaSect (thesectheadedbytheDalaiLama);theJokhangtemple,theholiestshrineinTibetan Buddhism;andtheBarkhormarketareaaroundtheJokhangtemple. OnSunday,Sept.12,weleftLhasaanddrovetotheadjacentvalleyoftheYarlungRiver,which gaveusachancetoglimpseconditionsinthecountryside.Alongthewayweobservedseveral largescaleforestationprojectstocontrolerosionandpreventdesertification.Eventhough TibetisthesourceofsixmajorAsianrivers,theYarlungvalleyisquitedry,withscrub vegetationandevensanddunesinsomeplaces.WevisitedSamyemonastery,thefirstbuiltin Tibet.Likemanyreligioussites,themonasteryhadbeensackedandnearlydestroyedduring theCulturalRevolution.Itisnowunderextensivegovernmentfundedrestoration.Wealso visitedthetombsoftheearlyTibetankingsandYumbuLhakhang,thehomeofthefirstTibetan king,whichhasalsobeenrestoredfollowingneardestructionduringtheCulturalRevolution. WespentthenightinTsetang,ariversidetown,andmetwithlocalofficials,andlefttheregion viaplaneonMonday,September13.OnememberofthedelegationtraveledtotheTibetan regionsofwesternChinainmidSeptember,spendingadditionaldaysexaminingconditionsin Amdo,EasternTibet,whichisfoldedintoQinghaiandGansuprovinces.Thefindingsfromthat portionofthedelegationarereportedinaseparatesectionbelow.

RecommendationsforU.S.TibetPolicy ThestafftraveledtoTibettoidentifyareasofcommonground,particularlyintheareasof equitableeconomicdevelopment,environmentalprotection,andculturalpreservation. DiscussionsbetweenU.S.andChineseofficialsonTibetissuesareoftencontentious.Chinese officialstendtocharacterizeU.S.interestinthehumanrightssituationinTibetand WashingtonsadvocacyofdialoguebetweenHisHolinesstheDalaiLamaandBeijingas unwelcomeintrusionsintoChinasinternalaffairs.BeijingobjectedwhentheCongresspassed theTibetPolicyActin2002,andlodgedformalprotestswhenCongresslaterawardedtheDalai LamatheCongressionalGoldMedalofHonor.Nonetheless,webelieveitremainsvitalforthe U.S.government,consistentwiththeTibetPolicyAct,tocontinuetourgethegovernmentof ChinatopursuereconciliationwiththeDalaiLamaandotherTibetansinexilethrough mutuallyrespectfuldialogue.Reconciliationwouldnotonlyhelpresolvealongstanding politicalandhumanitariancrisis,butalsoallowtheexpertise,resources,andenergyand TibetansinexiletoassistintheeconomicdevelopmentofTibetandtheprotectionofits fragileenvironmentanduniqueculture. Whilethatdialoguecontinues,therearestepsthattheUnitedStatescantakethatmightnot onlybringdirectbenefitstotheTibetanpeople,butalsobegintobuildafoundationoftrust betweenWashingtonandBeijingonTibetanaffairs.GivenBeijingsstatedobjectivesforTibet, andinlightofsomeoftheeconomicdevelopment,environmentalprotection,andcultural preservationprojectsweobservedthere,webelievethereisroomtoexplorecollaborative effortsinTibet.Accordingly,wemakethefollowingrecommendationsfortheU.S. government: WorkinginconcertwithofficialsinBeijingandinTibetanregionsofChina,identify specificprojectsintheareasofsustainableeconomicdevelopment,environmental protection,andculturalpreservationthatcouldbeundertakenjointly.Possibleareas includelessonslearnedbytheUnitedStatesindealingwithdiscriminationand prejudice,bilingualeducation,environmentallysoundminingpractices,collectionof dataonglaciermeltandrivermanagement,historicallyaccuraterestorationofcultural relics,collaborativeresearchonTibetanBuddhistteachings,etc.Projectscouldbe implementedthroughacombinationofnongovernmentalandofficialchannels,with bothprivateandpublicfunding; CooperatingwithChineseofficials,seektoscaleupexistingU.S.fundedNGOactivities inTibetanregions,studyingwhatworksandreplicatingsuccessstoriesinotherethnic minorityprefectures;and

EncourageChinatorelaxrestrictionsonmovementofU.S.governmentofficials, journalists,tourists,andpilgrimstoandfromTibetanregions,and,consistentwiththe TibetPolicyAct,pressChinatopermittheUnitedStatestoopenaConsulateinLhasa. RestrictionsonaccesstoTibetmakeitharderforChinatotellthepositivestoriesof Tibet,evenastheyaffordcorruptorbrutalofficialsprotectionfromscrutiny.Tibet shouldbeasopenasanyotherpartofChina.Establishingafulltimediplomaticpostin LhasawouldnotonlyallowgreatersupportforU.S.citizenstravelingtoTibet,butalso signalourgovernmentsenduringcommitmenttoworkingwithChineseauthoritiesand theTibetanpeopletopromotesustainableeconomicdevelopment,environmental protection,andculturalpreservation.

TheGreatTrain ThedelegationenteredTibetbytraveling25hoursonthenewlyopenedQinghaiTibetrailway, whichconnectsGolmudinnorthwestQinghaiProvincewithLhasa.TheGreatTrainisan engineeringmarvel,builtacrossmorethan700milesofpermafrostataltitudesrangingfrom 11,000tonearly17,000feet.Althoughthetrainisnot,assomeChineseinitiallyclaimed, pressurized,itdoescarryoxygenandsomepassengerswereobservedtakingoxygenduring thejourney.Thetraincarriesroughly1.5millionpassengersayear,ablendoftourists, businesspeople,pilgrims,andmigrantlaborersseekingemploymentoranewlifeinTibet.In 2009,morethan561,000touristsvisitedTibet.MostofthemwereChinese,andmostarrived bytrain.Itisthelastcategoryofvisitorsmigrantsmorethananyotherthatcausesgreatest concernamongethnicTibetanswhoworrytheywillsoonbeaminorityintheirownland. Duringthetraintrip,staffmembersspokewithmanyfellowtravelers.Roughlyhalfthe passengersappearedtobeethnicTibetans,concentratedinthe2ndclassberthsand3rdclass seatingcars.ThefirstclasscompartmentsweremostlyfilledwithethnicHanChinese businesspeople,governmentofficials,Chinesetourists,andWesterners.TheTibetansaboard thetrainwereamixedlotstudents,workers,pilgrims,andbusinesspeople. OneTibetanpassengerwasreturningfromShanghaiExpo,whereshehadbeendeployedas partofaTibetanculturaltroupeattheChinaPavilion.Theeldestofthreesiblings,shehadone youngerbrotherwhowasamonkandanotherwhowasastudent.Shespokeofher excitementatgettingtopresentTibetancultureatExpo,butalsoofherfamilyssenseof dislocationanduneaseaboutthechangesunderwayinTibetchangesthatshecharacterized asbothpositiveandnegative.Shesaidthatherfamilysoverallqualityoflife,includingincome, housing,education,andhealthcare,hadimprovedmarkedlyoverthepast15years.Butshe complainedaboutHanmigrationintoTibetandaboutunnecessaryinterferenceby

TheQinghaiLhasarailroadcrossesmorethan700milesofpermafrostableakandmostlydesertedlandscape, punctuatedbydramaticglacieredpeaksandtheoccasionalmineornomadcamp.(Jannuziphotos)

authoritiesinthereligiouslifeofTibetans,especiallytheheavypolicepresenceinLhasasince theriotsof2008andtherequirementforpatrioteducationinmonasteries.Sheexpressed admirationfortheDalaiLama,andwasawareofbothhisNobelPeacePrizeandhis CongressionalGoldMedal(anawardfromtheU.S.Government),butexpresseduncertainty aboutwhethertheDalaiLamaandTibetanslivinginexilehadagoodgraspofconditionsinside theTARaftersomanyyearsaway.HermixedviewsoftheimpactofmodernityandChinese ruleinTibetweretypicalofthoseexpressedbymanyaverageTibetanswithwhomstaff membersspokeduringourvisit. OneChina,ManyTibets OverthecourseoffivedaysintheTibetAutonomousRegionandsixdaysinotherminority regionsofWesternChina,themembersofthedelegationexperiencedwhatcanbedescribed asOneChina,ManyTibets.Indeed,onecorefindingofthedelegationisthatunderstanding thesituationincontemporaryTibetrequiresdisaggregation.ThelifeexperiencesofTibetans underChineserulevarywidelybyregion,occupation,andeducationlevel.Moreover,the policiesoftheChinesegovernmentaffectingTibetthepushforeconomicdevelopment,the effortsmadetoensurethatTibetansparticipatemeaningfullyineconomicandotherpolicy decisions,theemphasisonsustainableenvironmentalpractices,theauthoritygrantedto religiousleaderstomanagetheirownaffairs,therespectaffordedaverageTibetanstopractice theirfaithandsustaintheirculturaltraditionsallofthesepoliciesvaryindesign,and,more importantly,inimplementation,fromplacetoplaceinTibetanregionsfoundinwesternChina.

Developmentisreal,andbenefitsarewidespread Onbalance,thedelegationwasimpressedbythescaleandscopeoftheeconomic transformationthatisobviouslyunderwayinTibetandotherpartsofWesternChina.The regionstransportationinfrastructurehasbeentransformedoverthepastdecade,asa massiveinvestmentbythecentralgovernmenthasproducedthousandsofmilesofnew highways,hundredsofbridgesandtunnels,dozensofairports,andmostsignificantlyforthe futureofTibet,theQinghaiLhasaraillink(soontobeextendedfromLhasatoXigazein WesternTibet).Theselargescaleinfrastructureprojectshavespurredeconomicdevelopment throughouttheregion,allowinggoodstoandpeopletoreachmarkets,whilealsoconsolidating thegovernmentsadministrativeholdonTibet,eveninremoteareas.Chineseauthorities reportthatTibethasenjoyedsustaineddoubledigiteconomicgrowthoverthepastdecade. Althoughthedelegationdoesnothaveenoughreliabledatatoconfirmthosefigures,wesaw nothingthatwouldcallthisclaimintoquestion.Indeed,membersofthedelegationwhohad traveledtoTibetmultipletimesoverthepast25yearssawampleevidencethat,althoughTibet stilllagsbehindmostprovincesofChinainGDPpercapitaandothereconomicbenchmarks,the regionobviouslyhasenjoyedhighgrowthratesformanyyears.Thegrowthisspurredby massivecentralgovernmentsubsidiesandinvestment.Officialstoldusthatthecentral governmentprovides93percentofthebudgetoftheTibetanAutonomousRegion.

ModerntwolanehighwaysnowcrisscrossTibet,cuttingtraveltimesfromdaystojusthours.(Jannuziphoto)

ViewfromthePotalaPalaceshowsrailroadbridgesanddevelopmentinwesternLhasa.(Jannuziphoto)

Thecentralgovernmentsinvestmenthasnotbeenlimitedonlytothetransportationsector. AccordingtoChineseauthorities,thegovernmenthascompleted80%ofroughly225,000units ofsafeandcomfortablehousing,designedultimatelytoprovidemodernaccommodationsfor 1.2millionTibetans.Thedelegationwastakentoonemodelvillageashortdriveoutsideof Lhasa,wherewewereinvitedintoanaverageresidencethatindeedprovedtobesafeand comfortable.ThePotemkinlikequalityofthevillagenewlyconstructedinthepastfew months,withphotosofChineseleaderDengXiaopingprominentlydisplayedonthewall,and thepresenceofafamilypatriarchwhoselifestory(formerserf,PLAsoldier,andnowaretired grandparentfullofgratitudetothePRC)wasemblematicofthestorythatBeijingwantsto tellinTibet.Yetitcouldnotdiminishanimportantunderlyingtruth:averageTibetansare betterhousedtodaythanbefore.Moreover,Tibetanssaidtheyweregratefultohavehousing thatiswarmandhaselectricpower,runningwater,andmodernappliances.Membersofthe delegationwereabletoconfirmboththeextentofthismassivehousinginitiative,andthe generallyappreciativeTibetanattitudeaboutit,bothintheTARandinotherTibetanregions.

Thegovernmenthasalsomadeasignificantinvestmentineducationoverthepastdecade, althoughbyitsownadmission,TibetansstilllagbehindethnicHanChineseineducational achievementandopportunity.Accordingtogovernmentstatistics,whichwewereunableto independentlyverify,Tibetanenrollmentratesforprimaryschoolnowtop98%,andgraduation ratesfromhighschoolsurpass56%.ThesefigureslagonlyslightlybehindtherestofChina. Tibet,likemostofChina,hasnineyearscompulsoryeducation,althoughontravelsinthe regionthestaffmembersoftensawschoolagechildren,particularlyinnomadicareas,who wereclearlynotenrolledinschoolfulltime. AccordingtoChineseofficials,morethan20%ofTibetansreceivesometertiaryeducation,and thegovernmentismakingamajorinvestmenttoexpandcollegeeducationopportunitiesinthe TAR.TherearenowsixuniversitieslocatedintheTAR,reducingtheneedforTibetanstotravel tootherpartsofChinatopursuehighereducation.Untilrecently,Tibetanshadfewoptionsfor highereducationclosetohome.Thestaffdelegationvisitedtheverymodern,justcompleted LhasacampusofTibetUniversity(8,000students)andmetwithprofessorsandscholars engagedinresearchonancientTibetanBuddhistscriptures.Otherfaculty,students,andstaff areworkingtodevelopLinuxandMicrosoftcompatibleTibetanlanguagesoftware.The professors,someethnicTibetan,othersethnicHan,wereexcitedtosharetheirworkwiththe staffdelegation.Theydisplayedobviousdedicationtothemissionoftheuniversity,namely; bringinghighereducationandnewopportunitiestoagenerationofTibetans.Unfortunately, ourvisittothecampusfellonastudentholiday,sowewerenotabletomeetwithstudents. Thefacultyhowever,eagerlyinvitedustoreturnandmeetwithstudentsinthefuture. TheworkbeingdoneonTibetanlanguagecomputersoftwareseemstobeespecially significant.InordertobesuccessfulinmodernChina,Tibetansneedbothfluencyintheir nativetongueandfluencyinChinese.Themajorobstacletogreateraccomplishmentsinthe fieldofeducationformanyTibetansappearstobethelanguagebarrier.MostTibetanswith whomthestaffmembersspokehadonlyrudimentaryChineselanguageability,although youngerTibetansweremorelikelytobefluentinMandarinthantheirparents.Thisisamajor impedimenttolandingagoodjoboradvancinginacareer.Thelanguagebarrieralso complicatesdailytasks,fromfillingoutgovernmentforms(almostallofwhichareprintedonly inMandarin)tonavigatingthecityofLhasa.Shopsigns,billboards,largeneonsignsandeven trafficsignsinLhasaareoftenonlyinChinesecharacters,withnoTibetanscript.Thelanguage barriercutsbothways.VeryfewethnicHanChineselivinginTibet,eventhoseofficialscharged withadministeringtheprovince,haveanyTibetanlanguagefluency.Whenaskedaboutthis, ChineseofficialsrespondedthatTibetanlanguagetrainingwasnotrequiredforofficialsposted toTibet,althoughanoptionalonemonthculturalawarenesscourse,whichincludedsomevery basiclanguagefamiliarization,wasavailableforthosewhowantedit.

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ThenewlycompletedTibetUniversitycampusinLhasahasanenrollmentof8,000onamoderncampus,helpingto remedyashortageofhighereducationopportunitiesinsidetheTAR.(Jannuziphoto)

Butdiscrimination,inequalities,andHanmigrationfueldiscontent EconomicdevelopmentandChinasinvestmentsinTibethaveclearlyimprovedthelivesof manyTibetans,butdiscrimination,Hanmigration,andgrowingincomeinequalitiesarealso fuelingdiscontent.Restrictionsonreligiouspracticediscussedbelowarealsoamajor sourceofunhappinessformanyTibetans,especiallyformonks,nuns,andotherdevout Buddhists.Asonestaffmember,paraphrasingtheBeatles,summeditupinacandid conversationwithChineseauthorities,Moneycantbuyyoulove. Chineseofficialsarereluctanttoacknowledgethatdiscrimination,whetherofficiallysanctioned orotherwise,existsinTibet.ThestandardgovernmentapprovedmessageisthatTibetans enjoymanyspecialprivileges,especiallytheabilityforamarriedcoupletohavemorethanone child.Apartfromexemptionfromtheonefamily,onechildrule,Tibetansreceivesomeother specialbenefits,includingpreferentialaccesstoeliteuniversitiesforthosefewwhoqualify basedontestscoresandcompletionofhighschool.ButmanyTibetanstoldustheydonotfeel privileged.Theyfeeldisadvantaged,particularlybytheinfluxofethnicHanChinesetoTibet.

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ThegrowthboominTibethasattractedmanyHanChinesemigrantsandbusinesses,sothat todayLhasanolongerhasthefeelofaTibetancity,butratherthatofaChinesecitywitha Tibetanquarter.Itappearsthatalargepercentageofthejobscreatedbytheboomaregoing toHanChineseratherthannativeTibetans.Notsurprisingly,ChineseinvestorsinTibetprefer tohirepeoplewithwhomtheycaneasilycommunicate.Theyalsotendtofavorfriendsand relatives,followingalongestablishedChinesecustomofguanxi(connections).Evenrelatively lowskilljobsliketaxidriversandhotelclerksareoften,thoughnotalways,heldbyethnicHan Chinese. TheChinesewewereabletotalktosaidtheywereattractedtoTibetbytheeconomic opportunitiesthere,notbygovernmentincentivesorsubsidies.HanTaxidrivers,forinstance, saidtheycouldmaketwiceasmuchinTibetthanintheirnativeprovinces.Manycamefrom HenanandAnhui,twoofthepoorerprovincesofChina.Indeed,asurprisingfindingisthat Hanmigrationappearstobeoccurringorganically,anddoesnotappeartobetheresultofa deliberateChinesegovernmentpolicytopopulateTibetwithnonTibetans.Themigrationof ethnicHansettlerstoTibetismorethebyproductofChineseeconomicdevelopment strategiesthanagoalofthem. MostoftheChinesemigrantswithwhomwetalkeddidnothaveahukou(residencypermit)for Tibet,andthereforewerenoteligibleforsubsidizedhealthcare,housing,andeducation.In otherwords,mostweretechnicallyillegalmigrants,whohadtopayforhealthcare,education fortheirchildren,andapartments.Moreover,sincetheydonotpossessaTibethukou,the migrantsarenottalliedonofficialgovernmentcensusformsaslivinginTibet.Thishelps explainhowChineseauthoritiescanclaimthatthepopulationofTibetis90%Tibetan(and95% minority,overall). ChineseauthoritiesalsoclaimthatthepopulationofLhasaisoverwhelminglyTibetan.These claims,however,donotseemcredible.MostvisitorstoLhasawouldquicklyconcludethatthe cityisnowpredominantlyHan.Indeed,everyTibetanwithwhomwetalkedreportedthatthe city,withpopulationofroughly500,000people,wasatleast60percentHan.ManyChinese migrantsunaffiliatedwiththegovernmentsaidthesamething.Anecdotalevidencegathered byourdelegationtendedtobearoutthenotionthatTibetansarenowintheminorityinLhasa, andarelikelytoremainso,asasteadystreamofChinesemigrantscontinuestoaddtotheHan populationofthecity.

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PlainclothespolicesitatopmanybuildingsintheBarkhordistrictofdowntownLhasaduringdaylighthours, alertforanypublicdisturbance.(Jannuziphoto)

MoodinLhasastilluneasy WesawnosignsofthepropertydamagethatreportedlyoccurredduringtheMarch,2008anti ChineseriotsthatrockedLhasaandspreadtootherpartsofTibet,including,unusually,Tibetan areasoutsidetheTibetanAutonomousRegion(TAR).However,theomnipresentsecurity forcesintheTibetanquarterandthetightcontrolexercisedbyourhandlersseemedtoindicate thattensionsremainandofficialscontinuetobeconcernedaboutunrest.TheTibetanquarter, centeredontheJokhangTempleandtheBarkhormarket,theepicenterofthe2008anti Chineseriots,isnowheavilypatrolledbyChinesePeoplesArmedPolice(PAP).Everyentrance tothequarterfeaturesacheckpointmannedbyPAPpoliceinriotgearandcarryingAK47s, carbinesandotherheavyweapons.Itisnotpermittedtotakepicturesofthecheckpoints. InsidethequartertherearesurveillancecamerasandmorePAPoutposts.Policedetachments regularlymarchthroughtheareainashowofforce.PlainclothedPAParestationedon rooftopsthroughouttheTibetanquarteroftownduringdaylighthours,usuallyinpairs, observingpilgrimsandgenerallyseemingalerttoanysignsofprotest.Otherplainclothed policewerepresentinsidetemplesandintheBarkhor.Themaintenanceofsuchaheavy

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policepresenceishighlyunusualinChina,andspeakstotheimportancethelocalandnational authoritiesattachtopreventinganyrecurrenceofthe2008riots.Wedidnotobservepolice stoppingpilgrimsorothersfromenteringtheTibetanquarter,nordidweobservethem searchingthebelongingsofmerchantsorothersenteringtheBarkhorareawithbagsandcarts. Nonetheless,wegottheimpressionthattheriotpolicewerealerttoanypossibledisturbance, andwerepreparedtorespondpromptlyanddecisivelyifdirectedtodoso. Intensiveculturalrestorationandpreservationeffortsunderway Thedelegationhadtheopportunitytovisitseveralsitesofgreatreligiousandcultural significanceduringourtravelsintheTARandTibetanregionsoutsidetheTAR.Mostwere throngedwithpilgrims,evidencethatTibetansremaindeeplyspiritualandthatforaverage Tibetans,avisittoalocalshrineormonasteryremainsaregularfeatureoflife.Asalready mentioned,weobservedcontrastsfromprovincetoprovince,andfromsitetosite.Our generalimpressionisthatthroughoutTibetanregionsofChina,therearemassive investmentsbeingmadetorestoresitesofreligiousandhistoricalsignificance,andinsome casesexpandthem.Someoftherestorationworkisbeingcarriedoutwithcentral governmentfunding,whileotherefforts,particularlyoutsideoftheTAR,arebeingprivately financedbydonorsandthroughtherevenuegeneratedbytourists. Officialsinchargeofculturalpreservationproudlyannouncedthatsince2001,thegovernment hasspentmorethan1.4Byuan(morethan$200million)insidetheTARtohelpreconstructand renovateculturalsitesdamagedduringtheCulturalRevolution.DuringtheCulturalRevolution, nearlyallreligioussitesinChinaexperiencedsomedamage,andthe6,000monasteriesofTibet weredevastated.SomeweredestroyedbyethnicHanRedGuards,butotherswerepillaged andvandalizedbyTibetans themselves,radicalized underMaoandencouraged byofficialstoeliminateall vestigesoffeudaltimes. Today,hundredsofthose monasterieshavebeen rebuilt.Thereconstruction atGandenMonasteryjust outsideofLhasaleveled duringtheCultural Revolutionhasbeen particularlydramatic.
TemplebuildingunderreconstructionatSamyeMonasteryintheYarlung Rivervalley.Samye,oneofTibetsoldestmonasteries,hasenjoyedamajor infusionofgovernmentresourcesoverthepastfiveyears.(Jannuziphoto)

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InsidetheancientJokhangTemple,officialsinchargeofculturalpreservationprefertorenovateexistingstructures ratherthanbuildnewones,whereverpossible.Here,twoTibetancraftsmenrepairastructuralpillarmorethan 300yearsoldbyhammeringfreshwoodintocracksandthenshapingthewoodtofit.(Jannuziphoto)

AlthoughphysicallythemonasteriesofTibetarerecovering,spirituallyTibetsmonastic communitycontinuestolaborunderstrictrulesandofficialscrutiny.Regulationsgoverning TibetanBuddhismareadministeredbytheReligiousAffairsBureauofChina.[Ironically,none oftheofficialswemetinchargeofculturalheritageorreligiousaffairs,eventhosewhowere Tibetans,professedtobeBuddhists.AlthoughtheChineseconstitutionguaranteesfreedomof religion,asapracticalmatternoonewhoisopenlyreligiouscanobtainahighgovernmentor partyposition.]TheReligiousAffairsBureauandtheMinistryofPublicSecuritycarefully monitorandcontrolmostmajorreligiousinstitutionsinsidetheTAR.Thegovernment supervisestheselectionofnewincarnatelamas,animportantpower,particularlysincethe headofallfourofthemainschoolsofTibetanBuddhismarecurrentlylivinginexile.The governmentalsorequiresmonkstogothroughpatrioticeducationprograms,althoughthe intensityandfrequencyofthesepropagandacampaignsvariesaccordingtolocalconditions andtheenthusiasmoftheofficialschargedwithcarryingthemout.Thegovernmentprohibits thedisplayofphotographsoftheDalaiLama,althoughmanymonasteriesignorethisrulewhen

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policearenotaround.Thegovernmentprohibitsyoungboysandgirls,thoseundertheageof 18,frombecomingnovicesatmonasteriesandnunneries,althoughagain,therulesareapplied withvaryingdegreesofrigorindifferentregions.Thegovernmentlimitsthenumberofmonks whocanbeinresidenceatlargemonasteriesbyestablishingaquota,andattimesrestrictsthe freedomofmovementofreligiousleaders.Atallmajormonasteries,thegovernmenthasset upademocraticmanagementcommitteetoensurecompliancewithallapplicable regulations.Insomemonasteries,particularlyinandaroundLhasa,thegovernmenthas installedvideosurveillanceequipment.Insomecases,thegovernmenthasbuiltpolicestations adjacenttomonasteries.Takentogether,theserulesandrestrictionsbreedresentmentand interferewiththeabilityofTibetanBuddhiststoenjoythatfullmeasureofreligiousfreedom promisedthemunderArticle36ofChinasconstitutionandcalledforbyinternationalnorms thatChinahasatleastnominallypledgedtorespect.

Policevideocameras,suchasthisoneatSeraMonastery,adornmostoftheculturalsitesofsignificancearound Lhasa,butarerarelyseenatTibetanmonasteriesoutsidetheTAR.(Jannuziphoto)

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QinghaiandGansu:Stilllandof nomads Onlyabouthalfofallethnic TibetanslivinginsideChinareside intheTibetAutonomousRegion. PerhapstwomillionTibetanslive inTibetanregionsofQinghai, Gansu,Sichuan,andYunnan ProvincesinwesternChina.These Tibetans,manyofthemsemi nomadicherders,someofthem farmers,mostlyresideinTibetan AutonomousPrefectures, Powertransmissionlinescrossmountainpassesataltitudesin excessof3,700metersinQinghaiandGansuProvinces.(Jannuziphoto) althoughsomecanbefoundin majorurbanareassuchasChengduandKunming.OnthelastSFRCstaffdelegationtofocuson Tibetanissuesin2002,stafffoundthatTibetansintheseprefecturesoftenenjoyedgreater freedomsthanthoselivinginsidetheTAR,andalsoseemedtohavemorevoiceovertheirown affairsthanthoseTibetansinthesupposedlysemiautonomousTAR.Atthattime,travelin theAmdoregionastheeasternregionofTibetiscalledintheTibetanlanguagewasvery difficult.Mostroadswereunpaved,communicationsinfrastructurepoor,andaccessquite restrictedbyChinesepublicsecurityforces.ThereturnvisittoAmdoprovidedpointsof contrastandpointsofcontinuity. MostAmdoTibetansoutsidethenorthernedgeoftheTibetanAutonomousRegionarestill poor,nomadicherdersorsubsistencefarmers,butarereapingsomeofthegainsofeconomic development.Newroadsstretchacrossthevalleys,powerlinesthreadoverhighmountain passes,andcellphonewieldingyakherderswatchTVsoapoperasfromthecomfortoftheirgor tents(thetraditionalroundtentmadeofwoolusedbyTibetannomadsforhundredsofyears). Higherpricesforagriculturalgoods,centralgovernmentsubsidies,religioustourism,and soaringpaymentsforlocallyharvestedcaterpillarfungusarebringingnewsourcesofincome totheregion.Unfortunately,manyoftheseeconomicbenefitscontinuedisproportionatelyto accruetoHanandHuiresidentsandmigrants,andlocaldevelopmentspecialistsworrythat Tibetansareneglectingcraftskillsthathavetraditionallysustainedthemduringtimesof difficulty.Further,Tibetannomadsarefailingtotakeadvantageofwindfallincomeandloans toincreasetheiragriculturalproductivityorstartbusinesses.Housingbuiltbythegovernment tosettleTibetannomadsinsmalltownsthroughouttheplateauisevident.Tibetanssaythey welcomethesubsidizedhousingforuseinthewintermonths,butdonotplantogiveuptheir seminomadiclifestyle.

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SignsofEconomicProgress Ingeneral,TibetansinAmdostillhaveverylowincomes.Mostareseminomadicherdersor subsistencefarmerssupplementingtheirincomesinthewinterwithmanuallabororsimple servicesjobsinsmallmarketormonasterytowns.Theyare,however,enjoyingsomeofthe benefitsofeconomicdevelopmentandincreasedgovernmentspending.Amonkatthelarge LabrangMonasteryinGansuexplainedthatthemonasterysupportsmonksandstudentsfrom familiesthataretoopoortoprovidebasicsubsistencefunds,butinrecentyearssuch communitysupportwasalmostcompletelyunnecessarysinceallofthesurroundingnomad familieswerenotrich,butnolongerpoor.

Theaveragefamilyhasroughly50headofyak,enoughtoliftmostoutofpoverty.(Jannuziphoto)

Nomadsinterviewedonthehighplainswithoutexceptionconfirmedthattheywerefeeling someofthebenefitsofeconomicprogress.ATibetannomadresidinginatraditionalTibetan gorintheZekuTibetanAutonomousPrefecturesaidthathis16personfamilyhad50headof yak,andthe4adultwomeninthefamilyeachhadseveralgoldcappedteeth.Mostnomadic familygroupsvisitedboastedsimilarherds,andteeth!Almostallhadinvestedinasmallsolar panelandgeneratorsetswhichprovidedenoughpowerforasmallTV.Wesawfamilies travellingbetweengrazingsiteswithalloftheirpossessionspackedonthebackofyaks, includingthesolarpanelandgeneratorchargingtheirmoderncameraequippedcellphones. Traditionalmudwalledvillagessproutedsatellitedishesfrommostroofs,eveninremoteareas.

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Mobilesolarunit,costing$350,arefoundatmostgercamps.(Jannuziphoto)

Throughouttheregion,wenotednumerousroad,housing,andhydropowerprojects. ParticularlyintheareasdesignatedasTibetanautonomousdistricts,theroadswerenewand remarkablywellmaintained.Nationalandlocalstateownedpowercompanieswereinvesting inalargenumberofnewminihydroelectricplantsandsmallscalesolarenergyplants designedtopowerlocalcommunities.Electricityandtelephonewiresstretchedover3700 meterhighpasses,andpublicelectricpowerreachedupvalleystolonepermanentdwellings. Allofthelocalmonasteriesvisitedwerebuildingnewstupas,assemblyhalls,andresidences.

NewminihydropowerplantsaboundinwesternQinghaiandGansu.(Jannuziphoto)

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Highcommodityprices,governmentsubsidies,religioustourism,andfungusbringmoney TheEuropeanheadofasmalllocalcraftcompanyexplainedthat,inpart,thenewfound economiccomfortwastheresultofabettermarketfortheyakandsheepthatformthebasis ofthelocaleconomy.However,otherfactorswerealsobringingnewmoneyintotheseremote areas.Thenationalgovernmenthasprovidedlargesubsidiestobuildinfrastructuresuchas roadsandpowergeneratingfacilities.Morecontroversially,thegovernmentisbuildingahuge numberofhousesinthesmalltownstoencourageTibetannomadstomoveintomarkettowns. Inmanyareasthenumberofnewhousesequaledorexceededtheexistingtownhousingstock. Religioustourismappearstoconstituteanimportantsourceofincomeinthetowns surroundingimportantmonasteries.Notingthelargenewstupasunderconstruction,amonk attheWudunsiMonasteryinQinghaistatedthatthemoneycamefromprivatedonations,not governmentsubsidies.AnothermonkattheLabrangmonasterystatedthatmonkswere allowedtokeepalloftheproceedsfromadmissionstickets,andusethemtorepairandrebuild facilities.Intheeasiertoreachmonasterieswithinadaystripofanairport,weencountered groupsofwelloffBuddhistpilgrimsfromTaiwan,Guangdong,andJapan.

PrivatelybuiltstupasawaitdedicationinRebgong,QinghaiProvince,centerofTibetanBuddhistart.(Jannuziphoto)

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TherisingpopularityandpricesofatraditionalTibetanmedicinecalledcaterpillarfungusisalso increasingtheincomesofTibetanslivinginsomeofthemostisolatedareas.Thefungus,which growsonacaterpillarhostandisonlysuitableforharvestduringafewweeksinlatespringon theTibetanPlateau,isrecognizedinternationallyasanaturalViagra.RetailpricesinXining currentlyrangeuptoRMB150(USD22)perstem,andaverageaboutRMB40(USD6)per smallunit.ATibetaneconomicdevelopmentspecialisttoldusthatagoodcollectorcould gatheratleast50caterpillarsperdayattheheightoftheeightweekcollectingperiod.He explainedthatthistradewasprovidingimportantsupplementalincomeforherders,whonow oftenrentoutgatheringrightsontheirland.

HuigirlssortcaterpillarfungusinXining.Girlonrightisholding$100worthinherhand.(Jannuziphoto)

EconomicBenefitsflowtoHanandHuidisproportionately AlthoughnoTibetansthatwespoketocomplained,itwasapparentthattheeconomic developmentinmostareasdisproportionatelybenefitednonTibetangroupsbasedoutsideor onthefringesoftheTibetanareas.AEuropeanNGOheadexplainedthatTibetanherderssold mostoftheirlivestockandwoolthroughHuimiddlemeneachfallforaverylowreturn.He statedthat,whilesomefamiliesdidwell,thoseontheeconomicmarginsorwhohad experiencedsomekindofdifficulty,orwhohadnosupplementalincome,hadtroubleeven subsisting.Attheinfrastructureprojects,alloftheskilledandsemiskilledlaborerswe questionedturnedouttobeHanmigrantsfromShanxi,Henan,Sichuan,orAnhuiprovinces,

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withlocalTibetansworkingasunskilledshovelslingers.Inthemonasterytowns,manyofthe hotelsandrestaurantsfrequentedbytourgroupsareHanorHuiowned.Thecaterpillarfungus trade,likewise,isdominatedbyHantraders.AHanbusinessmanlastyearopenedafourstory CaterpillarFungusMallinXining,capitalofQinghaiprovince,fortheuseofexclusivelyHan dealers. TheTibetandevelopmentspecialistinparticularworriedaboutthepossibleimpactthefungus tradeonlocalcommunities.Hestatedthatthepricewasveryunstable,andhaddroppedby halfin2009onlytoreboundin2010.Hesaidthat,inthedecadethatTibetanshadturnedto funguscollecting,manyinmoreremoteareashadfailedtopassonthetraditionalcraftskills thathadsustainedthemandsupplementedtheirincomesindifficulttimes.Forexample,many Tibetanstraditionallyworkedfortemplesinthewinter,carvingorpaintingdecorations.In Gansu,weobservedTibetansdoingthistypeofwork,butinQinghaithecraftsmenwereallHan migrantlaborers. Failuretoinvest,ormovetofindwork TheethnicallyTibetandevelopmentspecialistcomplainedthatneitherTibetannomads,nor theirmoresettledfarmingcounterparts,havetheabilitytotakeadvantageofthemoney cominginfromhigheragriculturalpricesorthecaterpillartrade.Ratherthaninvestingthe moneyinbetterstockorequipment,heexplained,theTibetanstendtousethemoneytowork lessinthewinter.AnotherTibetanconfirmedthatmanyusetheincometogoonpilgrimage. Likewise,governmentschemestoencouragemicrofinanceandsmallbusinessloansarenot metwithmuchenthusiasm.Thedevelopmentspecialistexplainedthatthefarmersand nomadshavenoexperiencewithbusinessesorfinancialplans,andalthoughstaterunbanks arewillingtoconsiderofferingsuchloans,fewcouldmakeenoughprofitfromthemtopay themback.TheEuropeanbusinessmannotedthatTibetanyoungwomen,unliketheirHan counterparts,arenotwillingtomovetotake factoryjobs,eveninthesurroundingareas.He saidthattheywereneededathometoprovide elderandchildcare. Resettlementplans Thegovernmentsnomadresettlementplans metwithmixedreviewsontheground.The EuropeanNGOheadexplainedthatthe governmentsobjectiveistosettlethesemi nomadicpopulationspermanentlyintowns, andencouragethemtogiveuptheirherds. Accordingtohisunderstanding,thelocal
"Safeandcomfortable"housingdevelopmentinthe grasslandsofwesternQinghaiProvince.(Jannuziphoto)

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governmentistryingtoprovideserviceandconstructionjobsforthesenewresidentsinthe towns,althoughheexpresseddoubtthatsuitableemploymentcouldbefound. Nomadswhoweretoreceivenewhousingoftengreetedthenewswithenthusiasm.They alreadyownedpermanentwinterhousesinthemountainvalleys,andlikedtheideaof virtuallyfreeresidencesclosetotown.Onenomadexplainedthathisfamilyplannedtousethe governmentprovidedhouseformostofthefamilyinthewinter;onlyonemanintheclan wouldstayintheoldwinterhousetowatchthelivestock.Whenspringarrived,othermembers ofthefamilywouldgraduallyreturntothegorsandtheirsummergrazinglandsinthe mountains,leavingbehindonlytheelderlyandchildrenstillinschool.

ThousandsofmonksgatherinRebgongforacelebrationtodedicateanewprivatelyfinancedstupa.(Jannuziphoto)

TibetanBuddhismoutsidetheTAR OneofthemoredramaticcontrastsbetweenlifeinAmdoandconditionsinsidetheTARcanbe foundatthemonasteriesoftheregion.InsidetheTAR,manymonasteriesappeartodepend ongovernmentsubsidiestoperformrenovationsandrestorationsoffacilities,usingtheirown incomeonlytocoverbasicdailyexpenses.OutsidetheTAR,monasterieswevisitedrely

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principallyonprivateincome,generatedfromtourists,pilgrims,andwealthydonors,manyof themHanChinese.InRebgong,aworldrenownedcenterofBuddhistartinQinghaiProvince, monasterieslookedpositivelyflushwithcash,muchofitgeneratedbythesaleofexquisite Thangkapaintingsthatroutinelysellfor$100to$500,butoutstandingexamplesofwhichcan fetchasmuchas$100,000inBeijing,Tokyo,orLondon. InsidetheTAR,officialscrutinyofmonasticlifeismuchmoreintensethaninAmdo. MonasterieswevisitedinTibethadvideosurveillance,plainclothespoliceofficers,orsecurity checkpointsatentrances.WeneverobservedapictureoftheDalaiLamainsideTibet,and youngmonks,belowtheageofabout16,werehardtofind.Atdozensofmonasterieswe visitedinAmdo,securityforces,andtheirvideosurveillanceequipmentandcheckpoints,were noticeablyabsent.OutsideoftheTAR,weobservedsomepicturesoftheDalaiLama,and youngnovices,someonly5or6yearsold,participatedinliteracy,dance,andmusic extracurricularstudieswhilealsoattendingnormalpublicschool. SomeMonksquestionedaboutissuesrelatedtoreligiousexpressionexplainedthatduringthe 2008riots,largenumbersofmonkshadbeendetainedforadayortwoandquestionedby authorities,andallhadundergoneintensivepatrioteducationcampaignssubsequenttothe violence,whichdidextendintomanypartsofAmdo.Butoverthepastyear,thesituationhad stabilized.Patrioteducationhadslackened,religiouslifeatthemonasterieshadreturned mostlytonormal.Weobservedmonksengagedinawiderangeofreligiousactivities philosophyclasses,debates,danceandmusic practice,pilgrimage,instructionforyoungmonks, andescortingvisitors.Manyofthemonasterieswe visitedhadincreasedthenumberofmonksin residenceinrecentyears,buildingnewhousingor renovatingexistinghousestoaccommodatethe influx.AtLabrangMonastery,weweretoldthat 3,000monksarenowstudyingupfromonlyabout 1,200in2002,althoughagovernmentimposed quotastilllimitsthenumberofmonkswhocanbe residentatLabrang.Askedwhythesituationin AmdowasbetterthanthatinsidetheTAR,monks andotherTibetanswithwhomwespokequickly answered,Becausehere(meaningintheirTibetan semiautonomousprefecturesorlocal Photographsareofthe14thDalaiLama,who fledChinain1959,canbefoundoutsidethe municipalities),manyoftheauthoritiesareTibetan TAR,butveryrarelyinsideit.(Jannuziphoto) andtheyunderstandus.

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Conclusion OverthecourseofourbriefvisittoTibetandTibetanregionsofwesternChina,stafffoundthat thesituationdefiessimpleexplanation.Rapideconomicdevelopmenthasproducedreal improvementsinthequalityoflife,liftinghundredsofthousandsofTibetansoutofpovertyand bringingnewopportunitiestomostoftheresidentsoftherooftopoftheworld.Infrastructure improvementsnotonlyserveChinesenationalsecurityneeds,butalsoallowgoodstotravelto market,studentstoreachschools,anddoctorstotreatthesick.Hydroandsolarpowerplants areelectrifyingtheTibetanplateau,givinghumbleyakherdersaccesstosatellitetelevisionand cellphoneswithdigitalcameras.Tibetansarelivinglonger,healthier,andmoreproductive lives.AsTibetisintegratedintomodernChina,Tibetansareenjoyingnewopportunitiesin Chinaandevenabroad,andmanyareseizingthem. ButmodernitybringsstressestotheancientTibetanculture.Environmentaldamagefrom smogandwaterpollutionaccompaniesdevelopment.Varioussocialills,fromdrugsto prostitution,areflowingintoTibetalongwithmigrantlaborers.Growingincomeinequalities presentinotherpartsofChinaarebeingrepeatedinTibet.Preservingancientways,from Buddhistteachingsandarttostoneconstructionmethods,canbedifficultgiventheinfluxof Chinesecultureandthelureofgetrichquickschemessuchasforagingforcaterpillarfungus. AndasTibeturbanizes,aseminomadicwayoflifeisunderthreat,notonlyfromChinese policiesdesignedtofencethefrontier,butalsofromthesimplefactthatlifeonthegrasslands ishardcomparedwithlifeinthecity. Apartfromthechallengesofcopingwithmodernity,Tibetansalsoliveunderapoliticalsystem thattoooftenaffordsthemlittlerealpowerovertheirownaffairs.Infact,theresidentsofthe TibetAutonomousRegionandthesemiautonomousTibetanprefecturesofWesternChina arguablyenjoylessautonomythantheirfellowcitizensinotherpartsofChina.EthnicHan Chineseofficialscontinuetodominatedecisionmakingonmostmattersofconsequence,from questionsofeconomicdevelopmenttothecurriculumtobeusedinschools.Shortlyafterwe returnedfromTibet,thousandsofTibetansralliedpeacefullyinQinghaiProvinceandinBeijing tourgethegovernmenttopreservetheteachingofTibetanlanguageinschools,expressinga desirethatposesadilemmaforeducationofficialswhowanttoprepareTibetanstudentsfor careersforwhichfluencyinMandarinwillbeessential.Resolvingsuchpolicydilemmastothe satisfactionofTibetansismadeinfinitelymoredifficultbythefactthatChineseauthoritiestoo oftendenyTibetanstheopportunitytoparticipatemeaningfullyingovernancedecisions. WhenTibetansareinvolved,inpositionsofrealresponsibility,thepoliciesadoptedbythe government,andtheirimplementation,aredemonstrablymoresuccessful.

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Duringourvisit,weencouragedourChineseandTibetancounterpartstothinkcreativelyabout howChinaandtheUnitedStatesmightworktogethertoachievegreatersuccessintheareasof sustainableeconomicdevelopment,environmentalprotection,andculturalpreservationin TibetanregionsofChina.Manyofficialsandordinarypeoplewithwhomwemetexpressed enthusiasmforsuchcollaboration,althoughothersexpressedskepticismaboutwhetheritwas feasiblegivencontinuingChinesesensitivitiesaboutforeigninvolvementinChinasinternal affairs.ThefewnongovernmentalorganizationsoperatinginTibetorTibetanregionsdoso nowbykeepingalowprofileonsensitiveissueshumanrights,religiousfreedomandby cultivatingcloseworkingrelationshipswithlocalofficials.Itisnotclearwhethertheycould scaleuptheirworkwithoutasignificantcommitmenttosuchcollaborationfromauthorities bothinBeijingandinTibetanareas. OfficialsinBeijingacknowledgedthatthegovernmentfaceschallengesinTibet,andthat economicdevelopmentaloneisnotsufficienttobuildaharmoniousChina.Fostering harmonyathomeandabroadisacentralgoaloftheCommunistPartyarticulatedby PresidentHuJintao.ForTibettothrive,ChinamustensurethatTibetanshaveequal opportunity,thattheyparticipatefullyintheregionseconomicgrowth,thatthefragile environmentisprotectedforfuturegenerations,andthattheuniqueTibetancultureis preservedanditsrelicssensitivelyrestoredandprotected.Theseobjectivesarenotalientothe Chinesegovernment.Infact,theyappeartobeintegraltotheFifthTibetWorkPlanrecently adoptedbytheChineseCommunistPartyandthecentralgovernment.Butputtingwordson paperiseasierthancraftingandimplementingpoliciestocarrythemout.Itremainstobe seenwhetherChinawilllearnfromitsownsuccessesinpartsoftheTibetanworld,districts whereithasaffordedTibetansgreaterlatitudetomanagetheirownaffairs,andapplythose lessonstotheTibetAutonomousRegionitself. ItalsoremainstobeseenwhetherBeijingwillfindaroadforwardinitshaltingdialoguewith theDalaiLamaandTibetanslivinginexile.Afternineroundsofofficialdialogueovereight years,thetwosideshavenarrowedsomedifferences,butachasmofmistruststillseparates them.ChinaviewstheaspirationsoftheDalaiLamaforgenuineautonomyfortheTibetan peopleascodeforindependence.Chineseofficialsareespeciallyleeryofproposalsbythe DalaiLamasrepresentativestoincludeallofculturalTibet,includingnotonlytheTAR,butalso Tibetanregionsofotherprovinces,withintheframeworkofthereconciliationdialogue.Beijing seesthisasanattempttoredrawChinaspoliticalboundaries.Fortheirpart,Tibetansinexile mistrustBeijingsintentions,fearingthatChinaonlywantstorunouttheclockwiththeDalai LamawhilecompletingthefullintegrationofTibetintoChina.

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ThestaffdelegationurgedtheChinesegovernmenttoengageinasinceredialoguewith Tibetansinexile,andweattemptedtocorrectsomemisimpressionsweheardwhileinTibet. Weweretold,forinstance,thefollowing:thattheDalaiLamadoesnotacknowledge improvementsinlivingstandardsforTibetans(false);andthattheDalaiLamadoesnot acknowledgethatTibetisapartofChina(alsofalse).EvenastheUnitedStatesencourages reconciliationtalksbetweentheDalaiLamaandBeijing,however,webelievethatWashington shouldtakestepstoestablishjointprojects.Theseshoulddrawontheexpertiseofmany parties,includingevenTibetansinexile,andpromoteabetterlifeforTibetansinsideChina. Theseprojectscouldthemselvesfacilitatethedialogueandreconciliationprocessbyexpanding trustanddemonstratingthevalueoftappingintooutsideexpertisetoaddresssomeofthe myriadchallengesconfrontingTibet.

PilgrimsandtouristscircumambulateclockwisearoundtheJokhangTemple,TibetanBuddhismsmostholyshrine, passingnumeroussmallstallssellingsouvenirsandhandicrafts.(Jannuziphoto)