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Here are a few pictures of the A604/41TE Transaxle so you know where the sensors are located.

There are 2 different ones because the Chrysler 2.0/2.4 I4 engines use a different bellhousing than the Mitsubishi 2.5 V6. Symptom: The car won't shift out of 2nd gear. The 'Check Engine' light is on. The speedometer still works, but the car is revving up to 4000 RPM at 40-45 MPH and staying there. Likely Cause: The Input Shaft Speed Sensor (also called the Turbine Speed Sensor or I/O Sensor) went bad. (thanks CloudedVision) Likely Solution: Replace the sensor (Part #4800878). The part itself is less than $20 to replace, but be prepared to pay over $100 in labor at most shops if you don't do it yourself. Likely Cause #2: Faulty or broken TCM relay. (thanks t vago) Likely Solution #2: Try swapping the TCM relay out with another relay. The TCM relay is located in the power distribution center, in the engine bay, right beside the PCM and the TCM, near the driver's side headlight. Another possible cause could be a loose connection from the TCM wire harness connector to the tranny itself. ---------------------------------------Symptom: The car won't shift out of 1st gear. The 'Check Engine' light is on. The speedometer doesn't work for this one. You're only able to go about 30 MPH without going above 4000 RPM. Likely Cause #1: The Output Shaft Speed Sensor went bad. Likely Solution #1: Replace the sensor (Part #4800879). The costs should be about the same as the sensor above. ---------------------------------------Symptom: The transmission is slipping. The 'Check Engine' light may be on, but generally it isn't. Your engine may rev up without the car going any faster (or moving at all). It may only rev up for a short period when shifting, then slowly go back down again as the car accelerates. Either way, excessive slippage of the transmission is usually not a good sign. It generates extra heat and may break things (if they aren't broken already). Some earlier TCMs can be reprogrammed to fix minor slippage problems, but major ones are the sign of a larger problem. Likely Cause: This is a sign of mechanical troubles inside your transmission. Go easy on it; it may get you too much further without repair. Solution #1: Pay somebody a lot of money to rebuild the transmission. It will cost a lot of money, may come with a short warranty, and may fail again at any time. Solution #2: Pick up a used transmission with low mileage from a junkyard. It's not guaranteed to work, but it's a lot cheaper than option #1. Solution #3: Swap in a 5-speed manual from a Neon or a 2.0 Stratus. This option gives you more power and more reliability, but takes some work. It will also cause your 'Check Engine' light to stay on because your PCM will be looking for the TCM and not see it. Instructions can be found in the Performance forums.

A604 Transmission Codes


Codes and Data (What They Mean.....)
The Chrysler A604 transaxle is a fully computerized 4 speed Automatic Transaxle introduced in the 1989 model year. The computer is constantly monitoring critical input and output circuits relating to the control of the transaxle. Some circuits are tested continousouly while others are checked only during normal driving conditions. If the transmission controller senses a problem in the system a fault code will be triggered and stored in memory. These codes will stay in memory until either a technician clears them or they are displaced by newer codes being stored.

17 - RAM check failure 45 - Memory Note: Each one of these codes is a specific test before start up for the controller. When the controller fails the test or doesn't match up to known information these codes are set. Each of the codes calls for replacement of the controller when they are set. These are not commonly seen codes.

Code 12 - Battery was disconnected Note: This code is provided, as reference information to tell you that battery voltage was lost to the controller.

Codes that will cause the transmission to go into limp in mode.


11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 31, 32, 33, 39, 41, 42, 43, 44

The following codes will not cause the transaxle to go into limp in mode.
12, 19, 28, 29, 37, 38, 45, 46 The only way the codes can be pulled from the computer is with the DRBII scan tool. If you have a shop that is nice enough to give you a printout of the codes, a friend with a scanner, or access to one you can decipher these codes below for a better understanding as to what may be going on.

Code 14 - ETAX relay always on. Note: The controller shut down voltage to the etax relay. When it checked pins 16 and 17 on the controller (to see if the points opened in relay) it saw more than 3 volts present.
Diagnostic Tip To check for welded points switch the etax relay with the back up light rely. Relay Locations On controller body Passengers side fender well Driver's side fuse box Other Causes Short to ground in SA1 circuit Open in SA1 circuit between relay and

Code 11 - Watchdog Circuit Test (see


below for sub codes) 13 - Watchdog circuit failure 16 - ROM check failure

ground Open in SF1 circuit between relay and ground Open in J91 circuit from relay to ground Open in J11 circuit from relay to splice 60 pin connector problem (pins 15,16,17) Bad controller

Other Causes Open or short in N7 circuit - distributor pick up signal Bad sensor in distributor 60 pin connector problem (pin 45)

Code 19 - CD2 bus communication Code 15 - ETAX relay always off Note: Controller commanded etax relay
to energize (provide voltage to solenoid block). When it checked pins 16 and 17 for 12 volts it saw less then 3 volts present. Diagnostic Tip To check for welded points switch the etax relay with the back up light rely. Relay Locations On controller body Passengers side fender well Driver's side fuse box Other Causes Short to ground in SA1 circuit Open in SA1 circuit between relay and ground Open in SF1 circuit between relay and ground Open in J91 circuit from relay to ground Open in J11 circuit from relay to splice 60 pin connector problem (pins 15,16,17) Bad controller Note: Transmission controller is not receiving information it needs from the engine controller. Diagnostic Tip Check for opens or shorts between Pin 46 (engine controller) and pin 4 (transmission controller) Pin 26 (engine controller) and 43 (transmission controller) Other Causes Bad engine controller Bad transmission controller

Code 20 - Switched battery Note: When the controller checked pins 16 and 17 it saw less then 3 volts (this confirms that the etax relay is open). However, when it checked the solenoid pack pressure switches it saw voltage. This sets code 20. This is not a common code.
Other Causes Bad etax relay (welded points) with a open SF1 circuit between controller and splice Intermittent short to battery on SF1 circuit Bad relay with an intermittent problem Bad controller

Code 18 - Engine speed signal circuit Note: Transmission controller is not receiving information it needs from the engine controller.
Diagnostic Tip Check to see if the wrong computer is installed on the vehicle.

Code 21 to 27 - Pressure switch circuits


21 - OD 22 - 2/4 23 - 2/4 and OD

24 - L/R 25 - L/R AND OD 26 - L/R AND 2/4 27 - All Pressure Switches

Solenoid pin 1 to controller pin 57 (2/4) Solenoid pin 1 to controller pin 9 (OD) Note: If none of the wires checked are opened or shorted then the controller is bad. This is very uncommon.

Note: When the controller checked the status of the pressure switches they were either opened or closed at the wrong time.
Causes 1. - If you rebuilt or installed a rebuilt solenoid block with new switch rubbers chances are the rubber seals are too big setting these codes. To confirm this install a used solenoid block (not rebuilt). If the vehicle now works the seals were the problem. 2. - The 2nd most common cause of these codes is loose fitting female connector pins in the solenoid harness. Here's How To Check Them A. - Get a # 43 / .089'' drill bit B. - Insert drill bit into each of the female pins. Drill bit must have some drag when installed and removed. Here's How To Fix Them A. - Insert # 43 drill bit into female pin. B. - Use a very small needle nose or screwdriver and squeeze the pin down against the drill bit. C. - Test for drag. 3. - The 3rd most common problem is opens or shorts. Here's How To Check For Them A. - Unplug solenoid 8 pin connector and controller 60 pin connector. B. - Use an ohm meter to check between these wires for opens or shorts. Solenoid pin 2 to controller pin 50 (Low/Rev)

Code 28 - Check PRNDL signal Note: When the controller checked the
status of the PRNDL or NSS switch they were either opened or closed at the wrong time. 1. Check for loose fitting pins on PRNDL/NSS switches or PRNDL/NSS connector end 2. Check for opens or shorts in wires between PRNDL/NSS and controller. 3. Install new PRNDL/NSS switches one at a time

Code 29 - TPS signal Note: Transmission controller sees TPS


out of range or intermittent signal Diagnostic Tip Try clearing code from transmission controller. Here's why. If TPS was replaced at a general repair shop they might only have cleared the code in the engine controller. If you cleared the code and it came back , then hook the scanner up to the engine diagnostic connector ( in engine compartment ) and see if it shows code 29. Yes = bad TPS No = open or short in wiring between engine and transmission controllers.

Code 31 to 33 Pressure switch problem


31 - OD 32 - 2/4 33 - OD and 2/4

Code 37 - Solenoid switch valve stuck


(stuck in L/U position)

Note: These codes are similar to codes 21


to 27 in that the controller has seen the pressure switches opened or closed at the wrong time. The difference is codes 31 to 33 indicate solenoid block or internal transmission problems only - no electrical problems. Diagnostic Tip If you rebuilt or installed a rebuilt solenoid block with new switch rubbers chances are the rubber seals are too big setting these codes. To confirm this install a used solenoid block (not rebuilt If the vehicle now works the seals were the problem Can be worn out accumulator bores (loss of oil pressure to switches) or warped lower channel casting in valve body causing switches to apply at wrong time. Important Always check accumulator bores for wear and flat sand/stone valve body to prevent these problem codes.

Note: The controller sees the SSV stuck


in the L/U position in the valve body. Diagnostic Tip This code is usually only seen after overhaul. The condition you will get is no 1st after a upshift. Vehicle will take off in 2nd gear and upshift. Do not confuse this with fail-safe (2nd and reverse only). There are only 2 things that that will cause this valve to stick. 1. - Over tightening valve body (impact wrench) 2. - Dirt or debris causing restricted cooler (cooler not flushed)

Code 38 Lockup control Note: When controller called for lockup it


saw a slip or no lockup at all. Diagnostic Tip This code is usually set after a overhaul and has 3 possible causes 1. - Pump Wear - Any amount of wear in the pump pocket between suction and discharge will cause low pressures to the lockup apply surface of the converter clutch. 2. - Torque Converter - A poor quality rebuilt will cause slippage of the converter clutch. 3. - Solenoid switch valve stuck in L/R position in the valve body causing no lockup. The problem is most often the pump. Next is the torque converter. Last is the SSV

Code 36 - Fault immediately after shift


Super Important ANYTIME this code appears with any of the 50 series codes it tells you there is NO electrical problem! That means, there is a hydraulic or mechanical problem inside the transmission. Broken UD/OD snap ring Burnt out OD clutch pack Gear train failure

valve stuck in the valve body. Important Most shops when they encounter code 38 replace both the pump and the torque converter at the same time to avoid a 3rd R and R.

43 - OD 44 - UD

Note: The controller has seen an electrical problem when it tested the solenoid circuit.
Diagnostic Tip These codes are usually set by: Opens or shorts in wiring between solenoid pack and controller. Solenoid or controller connections Bad controller Solenoid pack

Code 39 - Gear ratio error (1989 and 1990


only)

Note: This code says the controller is


seeing a slip.

Code 46 3-4 shift abort


Diagnostic Tip If the code is intermittent chances are you have a bad connection at the input or output speed sensors caused by loose fitting female pins in the wiring ends. Do not attempt to resize the female ends in the connector. Replace the wiring ends with Chrysler kit part # 4419478. Input or output sensors can set code 39 (but, usually don't). If you want to verify if the sensors are setting the code then change them one at a time, clear the code and test drive. If code 39 is not intermittent (and goes to limp in mode at the same mph every time slipping clutch) it is a internal transmission problem with 2 possibilities. Before overhaul - broken OD pressure plate tapered snap ring or burned OD clutches in input drum. After overhaul - misassemble of input drum (OD frictions/snap rings/seals).

Note: The controller saw too long of a


input speed change on the 3-4 upshift. Diagnostic Tip When this happens the vehicle will usually try to make the 3 - 4 shift but go right back to 3rd. It feels like it's going in and out 3 -4 / 4 -3 / 3 -4 / 4 - 3. There are 2 causes. Before overhaul - broken OD pressure plate snap ring or burned OD friction. After overhaul - misassembled input drum /OD clutch/snap rings/ seals.

Code 47 - Solenoid switch valve (stuck in


Low/Rev position)

Note: The computer sees the SSV stuck in the downshifted position.
Diagnostic Tip This code is usually seen after overhaul tightening VB with an impact or dirt from cooler not being flushed.

Code 41 to 44 - Solenoid circuit error


41- L/R 42- 2/4

Code 50 to 55 - Speed error 50 - Speed error in Reverse 51 - Speed error in 1st 52 - Speed error in 2nd 53 - Speed error in 3rd 54 - Speed error in 4th 55 - Speed error in Neutral 9 (for future
use)

Code 60 to 63 - Inadequate clutch


volume index - CVI's (1990 and up) 60 - L/R 61 - 2/4 62 - OD 63 - UD

Note: When these codes set the controller


has either seen the wrong gear ratio for a particular gear or an excessive change in turbine or output shaft speeds. Super Important If code 36 is present (fault immediately after shift) with one of these 50 series codes there is a internal transmission problem! UD/OD snap ring broken OD clutch pack burnt up Gear train failure etc.

Note: The controller has seen too low or too high of a CVI to apply a clutch. CVI is the amount of time it takes for a clutch to go to 0 clearance measured in CC's
Diagnostic Tip CVI codes can be set by any of the following Broken OD pressure plate tapered snap ring Clutch packs misassembled or set too tight Misassembled accumulators Worn accumulator bores Leaking accumulator seals

Code 56 - Turbine speed sensor error Code 57 - Output speed sensor error Note: Controller has seen an excessive
change in turbine or output rpm in any gear. Diagnostic Tip If the code is intermittent chances are you have a bad connection at the input or output speed sensors caused by loose fitting female pins in the wiring ends. Do not attempt to resize the female ends in the connector. Replace the wiring ends with Chrysler kit part # 4419478. Input or output sensors can set code 39 (but, usually don't). If you want to verify if the sensors are setting the code then change them one at a time, clear the code and test drive.

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