Waves

W. Kinzelbach
M. Wolf
C. Beffa
Numerical Hydraulics
Wave equation in 1D
c
2
u
ct
2
--------- v
2c
2
u
cx
2
--------- =
u | kx et ( ) =
u amplitude, v phase velocity
k wave number, e angular frequency e = 2tf, f frequency
Insertion yields
v
e
k
---- =
Wave equation 2D
c
2
u
ct
2
--------- v
2 c
2
u
cx
2
---------
c
2
u
cy
2
--------- +
\ .
|
| |
=
u | k
x
x k
y
y et + ( ) =
v
e
k
x
2
k
y
2
+ ( )
1 2
----------------------------- =
Analogous in 2D: 1D-wave front arbitrarily orientied, amplitude u
Solution
Wave velocity by insertion

Abb: 7-1: Ausbreitung einer ebenen W elle mit
W ellenvektor k = (k
x
,k
y
). Die W ellenfront
bezeichnet die Kurven gleicher Amplitude
y
k y
k x
x
Wave front
Gradient: -k x /k y
Wave equation 2D
x
k
k
k
a
y
y
x
y
=
Position of wave front:
Wave vector
( , )
x y
k k k =
Harmonic wave
Wave vector in x-direction
u
k
x t , ( ) a
k
kx et ( ) b
k
kx et ( ) cos + sin =
u
k
x t , ( ) A
k
e
i kx et ( )
=
| x t , ( ) u
k
x t , ( ) k d

}
A
k
e
i kx et ( )
k d

}
= =
k n ( )
t
L
---n =
| x t , ( ) u
k n ( )
x t , ( )

=
More economic way of writing
Decomposition of an arbitrary wave into harmonic waves (Fourier integral)
If domain has finite length L: Only integer k (Fourier analysis)
Group velocity
u
1
a k
1
x e
1
t ( )
u
2
sin
a k
2
x e
2
t ( ) sin
=
=
Ak k
1
k
2
=
k
1
2
--- k
1
k
2
+ ( ) =
Ae e
1
e
2
= e
1
2
--- e
1
e
2
+ ( ) =
u
tot
u
1
u
2
+ 2a
Ak
2
-------x
Ae
2
--------t
\ .
| |
kx et ( ) sin cos = =

Abb: 7-2: berlagerung von 2 W ellen mit leicht
verschiedenen W ellenzahlen
2
t
/
A
k
2
t
/k
x
v
g
Ae
Ak
-------- =
v
g
de
dk
------- =
Superposition of 2 waves with slightly different k
i
and e
i
:
Modulated wave
Velocity of propogation of modulation = group velocity
In the limit of small Ae, Ak
with
Dispersion
v
g
de
dk
------- v = =
v
g
2t
------
\ .
| |
1 2
g
k
---
\ .
| |
1 2
= =
v
g
de
dk
-------
1
2
---
g
k
---
\ .
| |
1 2
1
2
--- v = = =
c
2
u
ct
2
--------- v
2 c
2
u
cx
2
--------- cu +
\ .
|
| |
=
d
2
|
d
2
--------- k
2 e
2
v
2
------
\ .
|
| |
|c + 0 =
If v is constant (independent of k) we get
If group and phase velocity are different the wave packet is smoothed out, as the
components move with different velocities. This phenomenon is called dispersion.
Wave equations which lead to dispersion, have an addtional term:
Waves in water aee dispersive.
e.g. deep water waves
resp. with solution u(kx-et)
Damped wave
c
2
u
ct
2
--------- a
cu
ct
------ + v
2c
2
u
cx
2
--------- =
0 v
2 2 2
= + k iae e
( )
2 2 2
v 4
2
1
a k ia = e
u kx et ( ) Ae
i kx et ( )
=
0 1
i t t i t
e e e for t
e e e
=
Non linear wave equations
Wave equations with an addtional time derivative term lead to damped waves
with
yields
resp.
With a<2k one obtains
Non linear wave equations lead to a coupling of harmonic components. There is
no more undisturbed superposition but rather interaction (enery exchange)
between waves with different k.
Types of waves
Gravity waves
are caused by gravity
Capillary waves :
important force is surface tension
Shallow water wave
Gravity wave, but at small water depth (compared to
wave length)
Solitons (Surge waves)
Waves with a constant wave profile
Internal waves, seiches
Abb: 7-3: Schwerewellen
c, Well engeschwi ndigkeit
r
r
w
2
w
1
Gravity waves in deep water
e
2t
T
------ =
r c w e =
1
r c w e + =
2
w
1
2
2g
------ 2r +
w
2
2
2g
------ =
c
gT
2t
------- =
k
g g
c = =
t

2
c
k
g
dk
d
c
2
1
2
1
= = =
-
e
2t
z
0
z

--------------
\ .
| |
exp
Bernoulli along
water surface
Decrease of amplitude with depth
Phase velocity c and group velocity c* of the wave
Gravity waves are dispersive
/4
Path lines of water particles: Circles
c wave velocity
Capillary waves

o
Rg g
p
g
p
+ =
0
w
1
2
2g
------ 2r
o
Rg
----------- + +
w
2
2
2g
------
o
Rg
----------- =
r
R
2
2
4t

to
t
2
2
+ =
g
c
c
g
2t
------ =

to 2
= c

1
2t
o
g
------ =
For water: = 1000 kg/m
3
o = 0.073 N/m

1
= 1.71 cm c
1
= 23.1 cm/s
In addition to pressure force the surface tension is acting as restoring force
Bernoulli along pathline
Radius of curvature R of water surface
for <<
1
for >>
1
Wave length, at which capillary
and gravity contributions are equal
Waves at finite water depth
(

+ =
2
2
2
4
1 )
2
tanh(
2
t o

t
t

g
h
g
c
2t

------h
\ .
| |
1 tanh

to
t
2
2
+ =
g
c
/ h

Abb: 7-4: Schwerewellen
Im tiefen W a sser Im flachen W a sser
hydrostatische
Druckverteilung
h <

/2

Shallow water equations
c
2
gh = c gh =
2t

------h
\ .
| |
2t

------h tanh
for h << /2
In deep water In shallow water
hydrostatic
pressure distribution

Abb: 7-5: Solitonen
h
A
A
Solitons
Dispersion (small kh)




Front steepening
)
6
1 ( ) (
2 2
h k
gh k c ~
oc
1
gh
h
2
A
2
------ =
c' g h A + ( ) c > gh = =
2
'
2
A
h
g
c c c ~ = o
oc
1
oc
2
=
2
3
2
A
~
h
A
y h
A
x
A
---
\ .
| |
2
cosh
----------------------- =
AA
2 4
3
---h
3
=
Soliton:
Equilibrium between steepening and dispersion
Wave form does not change
mit
Seiches

Abb: 7-7: Oberflchenseiche in
einem Rechtecksee
u
x
q
h
z
0
cu
ct
------
1

---
cp
cx
------ =
p z ( ) p
0
g z d
z
h q +
}
+ p
0
g h q z + ( ) + = =

Abb: 7-6: Stehende Oberflchenwelle, genannt Seiches
Grundschwingung
Schwingungsknoten
Erste Oberschwingung
Schwingungsknoten
Gleichgewichtslage
der Seeoberflche
Assumption: Water movement horizontally
Linearised equation:
Base
Surface seiches
cp
cx
------ g
cq
cx
------ =
c
cx
------ h q + ( )u | | h
cu
cx
------ ~
cq
ct
------ =
c
2
u
cxct
----------- g
c
2
q
cx
2
--------- =
h
c
2
u
cxct
-----------
c
2
q
ct
2
--------- =
c
2
q
ct
2
--------- gh
c
2
q
cx
2
--------- = v gh =

2L
n
------
2t
k
------ = =
T
n
2t
e
n
------
2L
gh
-----------
1
n
--- = =
e
n
vk
n
=
Assumption: Velocity u constant over depth z
Derivative
with resp. to t
Derivative
with resp. to x
From those:
Standing wave (n-th Oberschwingung)
cu
ct
------ g
cq
cx
------ =

Abb: 7-8: Interne Seiche im Rechtecksee
u
x
q
h
H
z
h
H
+h
E
v

Epilimnion
E
Hypolimnion
H
Internal waves
p p
0
g
E
h
E
q z + ( ) + =
cp
cx
------ g
E
cq
cx
------ =
p p
0
g
E
h
E
q + ( ) g
H
h
H
z + ( ) + + =
cp
cx
------ g A
c
cx
------ +
E
cq
cx
------
\ .
| |
=
mit A =
H
-
E

cv
ct
------
1

H
------
cp
cx
------ g
A

-------
c
cx
------ g
cq
cx
------ = =
h
H
cv
cx
------
c
ct
------ =
h
E
cu
cx
------
c
ct
------
cq
ct
------ =
c
2

ct
2
-------- gh
H
A

-------
c
2

cx
2
--------
c
2
q
cx
2
--------- +
\ .
|
| |
=
c
2
q
cx
2
---------
1
gh
E
----------
c
2

ct
2
--------
c
2
q
ct
2
---------
\ .
|
| |
=
c
2

ct
2
-------- g
A

-------
h
E
h
H
h
E
h
H
+
-------------------
c
2

cx
2
-------- g' h'
c
2

cx
2
-------- = =
g'
A

-------g =
1
h'
----
1
h
E
------
1
h
H
------ + =
Pressure in Epilimnion/equ. of motion:
Pressure in Hypolimnion/equ. of motion
Continuity:
And finally:
with
cu
ct
------ g
cq
cx
------ =
Numerical example
Example for basic period of surface seiches und
internal seiches
Length of lake: L = 20 km
Depth: Average h = 50 m, epilimnion h
E
= 10 m, hypolimnion h
H

= 40 m
Density difference H/E A/ = 10
-3

Surface-Seiche
v = (gh)
1/2
= 22.2 m/s
T
1
= 1800 s = 0.5 hours
Internal Seiche
g = gA/ = 9.81 10
-3
ms
-2
h = 8m
v = (gh)
1/2
= 0.28 m/s
T
1
= 1.43 10
5
s = 39.7 hours