1

Becoming a Bonsai
How do they do that? As the Assistant Curator of Collections at the National Bonsai & Penjing Museum, I get asked this question a lot. Many think that it requires years of study and a Ph.D. in botany to create a bonsai; or maybe there are secret techniques used to keep them small. But the truth is, by following a few basic principles, anyone can create a bonsai. Please join me as I show you how to transform a young crapemyrtle into a bonsai.

Aarin Packard became fascinated with bonsai as a child. He began to practice bonsai in 2000, after two friends got bonsai as Christmas gifts. He earned a masters degree in museum studies with an emphasis in exhibitions and collections care. In addition to his experience with the bonsai collections at the National Arboretum, Aarin has had the privilege of studying with bonsai teachers from across the country.

Section 1: The bonsai within

2 Can I find the bonsai within? The first, and most important, step in creating a bonsai is to find the bonsai within. To do this one must keep in mind what a bonsai is: A bonsai is supposed to resemble a tree in nature, evoke great age, and be a thing of beauty. I spend time studying the plant I want to make into a bonsai, while thinking about different types of trees I have seen in nature. This helps me to decide how I will style the tree. When I look at my crapemyrtle, I am reminded of a large oak tree growing in an open field. Once Ive decided how I want the tree to look, I move on to finding its best side. Key Concepts The goal of every bonsai is to resemble a tree in nature. A bonsai should have the impression of great age. The shape of a bonsai should have a pleasingly balanced form.

Since bonsai trees are to look natural, its important to observe how trees grow in the wild. Studying the shapes and forms of trees in different environments can help you in creating bonsai.

Section 2: How do I choose the front?

The next step in creating a bonsai is choosing the best side of the tree, which is called the front. The front will be the side that features the best attributes of the tree. Choosing the front is very important because it will influence how the tree is pruned and wired.

3 Key Concepts Every bonsai has a side that it is meant to be viewed fromthis is called the front. Finding the best side takes time as you must study the tree from different sides and angles. Choosing the front will influence all other decisions, such as pruning and wiring.

Side A

Side B

Side C

Finding the best side of my crapemyrtle may take some time. I begin by looking at the tree from different sides and angles, observing its surface roots, trunk, and branches. I try to imagine trees I have seen growing in nature and how I might us this plant to re-create some of their qualities in miniature. At the same time, I use my clippers to remove any dead leaves or branches, which also helps to reveal the bonsai within. Tree roots in nature

As a tree grows older, surface roots become more prominent and beautiful. A good bonsai should reflect this characteristic. Surface roots are important because they help create a sense of age and stability. When deciding on the front, the plants surface roots should be considered first since they are most difficult to change. Nine times out of ten, the side with the best surface roots will be the front. [Sections 2 (close-up of roots)]

This side has well-developed surface roots and a wide buttress or trunk flare.

Features and Flaws Now that the tree has been cleaned out, its features and flaws become more apparent. The most notable flaw in this specimen is the lack of surface roots on one side. Ideally surface roots should radiate from the trunk on all sides like we see in nature. A thick trunk is another good feature on any bonsai because it represents age and maturity. Fortunately, the side showing the trunks thickness is the same side with the most surface roots; therefore, the front was determined for me by the treeI just had to find it. Perhaps the best advice for finding the best side of a new bonsai comes from bonsai master John Naka: If you cant find the front of your tree, find the backthe front is on the other side.

Section 3: Pruning

How do I know what to prune? The bonsai artist creates the shape and form of a bonsai tree primarily through pruning. The initial pruning is important because it sets the foundation for the future structure of the tree. The goal of pruning is to eliminate branches that look unnatural or have other faults. Faulty branches are branches that obscure a bonsais features or disrupt the overall feeling of natural harmony. If you are ever unsure about cutting a branch, its a good idea to wait. You can always cut it off later. Key Concepts Pruning creates and maintains the size and shape of the bonsai. Faulty branches that detract from the bonsai must be removed. Pruning keeps the tree healthy by allowing more light and air into the plant. Object: Wire trees Section 3 Faulty Branch key text

One of Japans well-known bonsai masters, Toshio Kawamoto (1917- 2006), created these wire bonsai to teach the principles of pruning. He painted the branches that should be pruned white, which helped his students visualize what the tree would look like before and after pruning. All white branches are considered faulty for various reasons. I have identified a few of them for you. *Wire trees donated to the U.S. National Arboretum by Toshio Kawamoto. Section 3 Object: Pruning shears, branch cutter, concave cutter. Pruning shears are the most basic tool used in bonsai. It is important that they are kept sharp and clean. These tools, called branch cutters and concave cutters, have round blades. Their cuts leave concave wounds. Section 3: Cutting branch A

Using my knowledge of faulty branches, I look at my crapemyrtle to see what branches should be eliminated. I see two large branches that need to be removed. Branch A is an eye-poking branch, so I remove it because it comes straight out toward the viewer. I use a branch cutter to make the cut at the base of the branch.

7 Section 3: Cutting branch B

Branch B is too low on the trunk; by removing it the trunk becomes more prominent. Notice how the branch cutter has left a concave wound in the trunk. This will heal faster than a flat cut. Section 3: Branch A&B

Branches A and B are the first of many faulty branches that I will remove. After pruning)]

With the initial pruning finished, the tree has more space between the branches. Now it is easier to see the branchesthis is important for the next step, wiring.

Section 4: Wiring
How else can I change the shape?

Wiring is another technique that helps to refine the shape of the tree. Wire allows the artist to change the shape of the trunk and branches into more interesting forms. Once in position, the tree will adjust to the new shape over time. Wire cannot be left on indefinitely. As the tree grows, the wire must be removed and re-applied to prevent damage to the bark. A bonsai will need to be re-wired many times as it develops over the years. A bonsais shape can be changed through wiring. Wiring allows you to bend branches into more interesting shapes. Wire must be removed before it damages the bark.

Objects: Naka wire gauge plaque and Bonsai Techniques book

\ John Naka (1914-2004), one of the greatest and most beloved American bonsai masters of the 20th century, taught countless students throughout the world the art of bonsai. He consolidated his teachings into two books, Bonsai Techniques and Bonsai Techniques II. In them he uses his sketches to illustrate bonsai techniques, including wiring. He used this plaque to show his students the different types and gauges of bonsai wire.

9 *Wire gauge plaque donated to the U.S. National Arboretum by John Naka. Section 4: Object - wire cutter Snub-nosed wire cutters are designed so they do not damage the bark when cutting wire off the tree. Section 4: Object - pliers Pliers are very helpful when working with heavier gauges of wire that are difficult to bend and twist. You will also see how they are used during the potting process.

Have you ever noticed how older trees have branches that are angled downward? This is the result of gravity continually pulling down on the branches over time. I have seen old oak trees whose lower branches actually touch the ground. I will mimic this natural phenomenon to make my bonsai appear older.

When beginning to wire a bonsai, I start from the bottom and work my up. By pulling the lower branches down first, I will have enough room to bring down the branches above them. Guy wires can also pull branches down, but will be addressed later since they are put on last.

10 I apply the wire at a 45-degree angle, which is best for holding the branch in place. I wire branches from the thickest end to the thinnest, and if possible, I wire two branches with one piece of wire. This causes each branch to act as an anchor for the other.

Section 5: How do I pot the tree?

Potting a bonsai involves soil, a pot, and the tree. Bonsai soil must have good drainage, yet be able to retain moisture. A proper bonsai pot not only enhances the beauty of the tree, but also provides sufficient space for the tree's roots. Before a bonsai goes into its special container, its roots must be pruned. As the tree grows, the roots fill the container, and the soil breaks down. That is why most bonsai will have to be repotted every 2 to 3 years throughout their lives. Key Concepts Repotting every 2 to 3 years is essential for the health of the tree.

The soil must drain well, yet hold moisture.Roots are combed out and cut back by one-third to one-half. Section 5: Object - Crapemyrtle Pot Section 5: Object - Types of soil

Choosing the Soil Bonsai soil needs good drainage so that air and water may flow freely through it. If water does not drain freely, the trees roots may begin to rot. At the same time, the soil must retain sufficient moisture to prevent the roots from drying out. I used equal parts of a baked clay from Japan called akadama, which has good drainage and retains moisture, and lightweight aggregate, which increases drainage.

11 Object: Yujis Soil Sieves ]

Yuji Yoshimura (1921-1997), one of the Wests earliest and most influential bonsai masters, must have sifted countless bags of soil with these sifters, which he owned. Sifting soils is an important step in repotting bonsai. Sifting helps to separate soil into different sizes, which are used for different sized bonsai. Also, if the soil is not sifted, the dust in the soil will inhibit water draining freely through the pot. *Sifter donated to the U.S. National Arboretum by John Romano. Choosing a Pot Not until I plant my tree in a pot will it receive the title of bonsaiafter all, bonsai means tree in a pot! Choosing the right bonsai pot is like choosing the frame for a picture. It should harmonize with the tree while not drawing attention to itself. This makes the relationship between the tree and the pot very important.

12 These images from John Nakas Bonsai Techniques show how to determine the correct pot size. The length of the pot should be two-thirds the trees height. The depth should be equal to the width of the trunk. By choosing a pot with correct length and depth, you automatically have the correct width because the potter has made the container proportional. Section 5: Object - Training Pot] My crapemyrtle is going into a training pot to help the tree get used to life in a small container. I will repot the tree in its final container once it has become established. Training pots are slightly larger than what is considered ideal so that the transition will be less stressful to the tree. I think this pot, despite its larger size, harmonizes with the tree. Section 5: Object: Small Pot with screen and wire I prepare the pot beforehand by adding wires to secure the tree to the pot and putting plastic screens over the drainage holes to keep soil from washing out. I use thicker wire to make anchor points so that guy wires can be added later. The anchor wires hook on the lip of the drainage hole and go up through the soil. [Section 5: Object - Root rake, scissors, root cutters, tamper, pliers, chopstick]

My crapemyrtle has been growing in its nursery pot for a while. In order for it to fit it in the pot I have chosen, I will need to remove almost 75% of the roots. Once I begin repotting, I must work quickly to minimize stress to the tree.

13 Using the root rake, I begin combing out the roots at the bottom of the root ball.

As the roots are exposed, I cut them back with sharp scissors so that the cuts are clean. This helps to promote the development of finer roots, which are important for absorbing water and nutrients.

As I get closer to the trunk, I encounter larger roots that will require a root cutter. Large roots take up valuable space in the pot and need to be removed.

I have cut off nearly three-fourths of the roots. This drastic root pruning is only necessary when first placing the tree it in a pot. When I repot in the future, I will only remove half of the roots.

14

I secure the tree to the pot with wire so that it does not fall over. I like to use pliers to tighten the wire in the pot.

I use a chopstick to work the soil in between the roots to remove any air pockets. Air pockets in the soil can lead to root rot.

Once I have worked the soil into the roots, I use a small trowel to lightly tamp the soil. The wires sticking up through the soil are anchor points for guy wires. I use guy wires to pull down larger branches that would be difficult to wire.

15

The transformation is complete, and I have a new bonsai. Now that you see how easy creating a bonsai can be, I hope you will be encouraged to try it for yourself. Turn around and enter the courtyard to see my bonsai! . Those who have visited the exhibit will appreciate how much the tree has grown since Aarin transformed it into a bonsai last spring. The most notable change is its new pot. The first pot was larger to help the tree transition into a small bonsai pot. Once the bonsai adjusted to life in a pot, Aarin could transplant it into an even shallower container, one that was better proportioned for his tree.