1976.139.

2a-b Wedding Dress, 1896 Ivory silk satin, ivory silk chiffon, ivory silk velvet, tan cotton, white cotton, buckram Scale: 1 box = 1" The back and side back pieces of the satin are sewn together before they are put on the lining, and the rest of the bodice is flatlined as usual. A loose chiffon layer is gathered at the neck and waist and overlaid on the satin, prior to the sewing of the side seams. There is a downwardpointing hook at the X on both side back lining seams, to hold the skirt waistband. The inside of the waist is covered on the dotted lines with a strip of satin; on the outside, there is a 6" (pleated irregularly to 2.5") x 23.5" bias-cut satin belt attached at center back through to the right side. The belt fastens on the right side with hooks and eyes. The collar and cuffs are of satin, interlined with buckram. The collar is sewn down on the right side, sandwiching all of the bodice layers, and hangs free on the left (where the neckline is bound with a satin bias strip); it fastens at the center back with three hooks and thread eyes. The cuffs are tacked together at the points. The sleeves have a fitted cotton lining (indicated with dashed lines), which flatlines the sleeve in the inside seam, and a crumpled buckram interlining through the upper arm to provide volume. The top of the sleeves are gathered tightly on five rows of stitching to fit the armscye. There is a satin facing at the wrist of the sleeve, indicated with a dotted line. The skirt's waistband is satin lined with cotton, with two eyes on the top edge to match the hooks in the bodice. The upper edge is topstitched on the sewing machine; the ungauged part of the skirt is inserted in the bottom and whipped separately on the inside and outside, while the back of the skirt to the mark is gauged to 2.25" on either side of the center back, which is open to the bottom of the placket. This placket is attached to the waistband to A, andt is folded under on the right side. The skirt is fully flatlined with tan cotton, with a 9" deep white cotton facing over a buckram interlining. The hem is bound with a bias-cut length of velvet. A length of elastic is tacked to each seam at the marks, running from the left side of the center front panel around the back to the right side of said panel.