Dr.

Robert Hickson 6 May 2014

Saint John at the Roman Lateran Gate

Saint John the Evangelist and Hilaire Belloc on Patmos and in the Holy Land
--Epigraphs--
Drin! these "ast t#o years $1%&% an' 1%40( the #or)' has ha' more to 'o
than to consi'er the lost beauty of the past. But to some (and I am one) the
destruction of beauty rans very high in the scale of tragedies. *e sha)) not
kno# +or a )on! time to come, - s""ose, the +ate o+ St. .aast an' its to#er/ bt
i+ it has !one, or i+ it 'isa""ears in the sbse0ent +i!htin!, then there #i))
ha""en one o+ those 1ery rare 'ob)e mr'ers o+ beaty #hich are the mark o+
or time. - mean by 2'ob)e mr'er2 the 'estrction not on)y o+ the ori!ina)
thin! $the historic 3ene'ictine Monastery #ith its 4o#er in 5rras, the ca"ita) o+
the 5rtois in 6orth#est 7rance( in a +irst #ar $1%14-1%18(, bt the 'estrction
o+ its care+))y bi)t restoration $1%1%-1%&%( in the corse o+ a secon' #ar
$1%&%-9( #ithin a 0arter o+ a centry....$4(here ha' stoo' +or centries the
monastery o+ St. .aast $est. 66:(. .aast #as the 7)emish +orm o+ .e'asts.
$Saint( .e'asts $circa 4;&-;40( )i1e' in the time o+ the Great <on1ersion,
#hen a)) the Roman =m"ire #as chan!in! +rom the "a!an to the +ina))y
<hristian +orm. It !as he !ho prepared "lovis for baptism $at Reims, on 24
December 4%6, +or years a+ter <)o1is ha' marrie' Saint <)othi)'e/ the
sacrament o+ ba"tism +ina))y bein! a'ministere' by Saint Remi!is himse)+, the
5rchbisho" o+ Reims, #ho #as a)so )ater, in 4%%, to consecrate Saint .aast as a
bisho", the 3isho" o+ 5rras(.> ?Hi)aire 3e))oc, St. .aast,> in his book, Places
?Lon'on@ <asse)) an' <om"any L4D, 1%42A, "". 11%-121.A
BBB
Seein! #hat a !reat "art he $Saint .aast( ha' ")aye' in the trans+ormation
$con1ersion( o+ 6orthern Ga), his tra'ition !re# enormos)y an' the
3ene'ictine abbey o+ 5rras took on his name. St. .aast it became an' St. .aast
it remaine' +or thirteen hn're' years....4here #as raised high above the
roofs of the monastery $"robab)y in the ear)y 16
th
centry( such a to!er as I
do not remember to have seen any!here else in Europe....4he "oint abot
this to#er o+ St. .aast #as that it filled the memory o+ anyone #ho ha' seen it.
5t )east, it certain)y +i))e' mine....*hen - came back to the to#n $o+ 5rras(
a+ter the 5rmistice $o+ 11 6o1ember 1%18( an' co)' note the eCtent o+ the
'estrction, e1erythin! "a)e' be+ore the mr'er o+ St. .aast to#er....that high
ruin of St# $aast to!er% gaping against the sy. - remembere' it as it ha'
been #hen - ha' )ast seen it at the 1ery en' o+ the )ast $1%
th
( centry, intact an'
!)orios. - certain)y tho!ht it co)' ne1er be re1i1e'. 3t....!ra'a))y, stone by
stone, an eCact re")ica o+ the o)' to#er rea""eare' $bet#een 1%1%-1%&%( in the
5rtois air an' n'er the 5rtois sky....*hen - sa# the thin! com")ete' - +e)t the
same a'miration an' sr"rise as #hen - sa# the restore' an' rebi)t com"ani)e
1
in .enice, #hich #as an' is another miracle of rebuilding. 3t the com"ani)e
at .enice ha' a better +ate. 7or it 'i' not come n'er +ire a!ain in another #ar
as 5rras has no# come. *hen sha)) - kno# #hat has ha""ene' to 5rras $no# in
1%42 an' #ith another #ar n'er#ay in the 5rtois(9 6ot +or months, "erha"s.
-t may ha1e been brise' or #on'e' or ki))e' a!ain a+ter that +irst risin! +rom
the 'ea'. 5n' so it is a)) o1er the )an' !here the insane vanity of barbarism
destroys and destroys and destroys.> ?Hi)aire 3e))oc, St. .aast,> in Places
?1%42A, "".121-12&Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
BBB
It is pathetic but illuminating indeed to discover ho! strongly the
barbarian has sought and desired !ine. He #o)' come hn're's o+ mi)es
o1er the an!ry seas to !et it an' it !as one of the chief ob&ects of his piracies.
He #as "ro' to acc)imatise it, as mch as co)' be, in his o#n )an's/ and
sometimes it re!arded him by giving him a very special sort of revelation,
"ro'cin! certain #ines, #hich, tho!h +ar beyon' the bon'aries o+ the
$ancient Roman( =m"ire, #ere still !orthy of "hristian men....En this
accont a)so - trst that the grave peril no! hanging over us% lest continual
!ar should destroy the continuity of !ine, #i)) make men consi'er a!ain the
imperative duty of saving and handing on to those !ho shall come after us
this !reatest o+ materia) thin!s, #ine. I am !illing to believe that for !hat is
irreplaceable there is a special providence.> ?Hi)aire 3e))oc, 5bot *ine,>
in Places ?1%42A, "". 280, 28;Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
BBB
But I say tae plenty of it '!ine( for the sae of your soul and all that
pertains to the soul) scholarship* verse* social memory and the continuity
of all culture. 4here may be eCcess in #ine/...bt in #ine one rare)y comes
across it/ +or it seems to me that true !ine rings a bell to tell you !hen you
have had enough. 3t there is certain)y sch a thin! as a deficiency of !ine
$c+. et deficiente vino> ?John 2@&Dat <ana in Ga)i)eeA(/ an' sch a 'e+iciency
is one o+ the most ra1enos beasts that can +asten "on a )i1in! so) $es"ecia))y
a Scan'ina1ian FirateG(. 4o 'rink an ins++icient "ortion o+ #ine, )ea1in! the
#ho)e bein!, bo'y and so), cra1in! +or a +)) "ortion, is tortre.> ?Hi)aire
3e))oc, 5bot *ine,> in F)aces ?1%42A, ". 281Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
BBB
Short)y a+ter the 1%&% commencement o+ *or)' *ar -- an' the )ar!e)y neC"ecte', ra"i' +a))
o+ 7rance in 1%40, Hi)aire 3e))oc recei1e' another shock, an annoncement #hich mch more 'ee")y
"ierce', an' in'ee' a)most broke, his heart@ the )oss o+ another son, Feter, on 2 5"ri) 1%41. -t #as,
moreo1er, his yon!est son, an' Feter #as then n'er arms on acti1e 'ty #ith the Roya) Marines.
2
?Hi)aire 3e))oc2s e)'est son, Lois, #ho #as a combatant a1iator, ha' a)so been )ost in #ar some thirty-
t#o years ear)ier@ ki))e' in 1%18, near the en' o+ *or)' *ar - an' his bo'y, moreo1er, #as ne1er
+on'.A Er 3e))oc #as so shaken by the s''en a''itiona) 'eath o+ Feter that he #as e1en re+errin! to
him in con1ersation, con+se')y, as Lois,> his e)'est son. He co)' not easi)y assimi)ate the rea)ity o+
another )oss. 5n' soon therea+ter, 3e))oc ha' the +irst o+ a series o+ strokes, an' #as not to #rite mch
more e1er a!ain be+ore his o#n 'eath on 16 J)y 1%;&, the 7east o+ Er La'y o+ Mont <arme).
Het, in 1%42, be+ore his !ra1er stroke came "on him, 3e))oc #as enab)e' to "b)ish his )ast
co))ection o+ 1arie' an' sometimes retros"ecti1e essays, entit)e' Places.
1
4he book #as mch more
than a set o+ historica))y in+orme' 4ra1e) =ssays, an' he #as o+ten to contrast an' c)ari+y ho# he +irst
sa# a ")ace ?#ith his sti))-remembere' 1i1i' "erce"tionsA/ an' then to !o on to consi'er #hat ha'
ha""ene' in that ")ace, or nearby, 'rin! the ensin! years bet#een 18%; an' 1%&%. 3t,
characteristica))y, the )ast ?an' o+ten rmbstios, as #e)) as norishin!A essay in the book is ca))e'
5bot *ine> ?2:6-28;A.
*hat my o#n !rate+) essay no#, there+ore, "ro"oses to consi'er are Hi)aire 3e))oc2s o+ten
'ee" re+)ections "on the 7aith herein, an' so near the en' o+ his )iterary )i+eDes"ecia))y in his essay
sim")y entit)e' Fatmos> an' in his sbse0ent one ca))e' 6aIareth.> *e may then a)so +ittin!)y 0ote
some his #or's abot #ine, as #e)) as some o+ his other ana)o!os asi'es, o+ten +on' neC"ecte')y in
n)ike)y conteCtsG
7or eCam")e, in his essay on 3othnia an' the 7in)an' 3e)t> ?6%-:;A 3e))oc reca))s his yoth
an' a'1entre an' one o+ those memorab)e irritations that #as sti)) to be "ro1ocati1e many years )ater@
-t #as in the hi!h smmer o+ 18%;, bt some#hat a+ter the )on!est 'ay, that #e
$my com"anion an' ->( set ot on this a'1entre. - $then 2; years o+ a!e( ha1e
a)#ays retaine' 1i1i' memories o+ it....Let me 'o #hat - ha1e 'one in the
matter o+ most o+ my Jorneys, that is, set 'o#n the thin!s that strck me
imme'iate)y an' a)most 1io)ent)y at the time. 4here #as the en')ess
'ay)i!ht....an' the 'a#n became "art o+ it $the northern horiIon>( )on! be+ore
it ha' time to cast sha'o#s. +hen there !ere the mos,uitoes. - be)ie1e that
they are common to a)) the arctic shore an' they are a hellish marvelG
1 Hi)aire 3e))oc, Places ?Lon'on@ <asse)) an' <om"any L4D, 1%42A. 7rther re+erences to the essays in this book #i)) be
to this e'ition, an' the s"eci+ic "a!es re+erre' to #i)) be +on' in "arentheses in the main bo'y o+ this essay, abo1e. Most
o+ the em"hases #ithin these eCten'e' 0otations #i)) ha1e been a''e', "r"ose)y, by the "resent #riter.
&
-t has been sai' by a #ise man that the rea))y astonishin! thin!s o+ this #or)'
are har')y e1er em"hasise'. 4hat is certain)y tre o+ the 1ery rare mirac)es o+
art an' o+ !oo' "oetry. It is also true of saintly people% but it is especially
true of the mos,uitoes of the arctic.
4hey are incre'ib)e, +or nmber, +or acti1ity, an' +or bi0ity. 4hey mst be
seen an' +e)t to be be)ie1e'....-n'ee',...the mos0itoes o+ the 6orthG....$5n'(
'rin! the )ast )a" o+ or eC")oration there came $as #e a""roache' by boat the
sma)) archi"e)a!o bet#een 7in)an' an' S#e'en( yet another eC"erience #hich
has stck in my min'. *e)) be+ore #e !ot to the 5a)an' -s)an's ?#hich are a
s!arm of rocs lie a s!arm of mos,uitoes% and !ere% perhaps% inspired
by those insectsA a 'eck-han' #ho co)' s"eak a )itt)e =n!)ish aske' me
#hether - kne# that the #ater o+ the !)+ $o+ 3othnia( #as +resh9 - sai' - 'i'
not kno# it. - ha' tho!ht it to be "art o+ the sa)t sea. 4hen, to prove his
!ords, he ma'e a sort o+ cra')e +or a tmb)er an' )o#ere' it o1er the si'e an'
ba'e me 'rink. 5n' )oG -t #as as fresh as the !ater of any !arm ditch in my
o!n dear county $'ear )itt)e SsseC the 3e)o1e'(G
4hs as - #an'ere' 'i' - )earn ne# thin!s. ?:1-:2, :4-:;Dmy em"hasis
a''e'A
=ar)ier in the book, in his essay En *an'erin!> ?18-26A, he ha' ma'e a brie+ 'istinction
bet#een #an'erin! an' tra1e))in!@
- ha1e #an'ere' a)) my )i+e, an' - ha1e a)so tra1e))e'/ the difference bet#een
the t#o being this, that #e #an'er for distraction, bt #e tra1e) for
fulfilment. 5 man #an'ers in or'er to entertain himse)+ #ith ne# 'isco1eries
an' eC"eriences, the stran!er the better, and if beautiful% !hy then better still.
3t he tra1e)s in or'er to 1isit cities an' men, an' to !et a kno#)e'!e o+ the
rea) ")aces #here thin!s ha""ene' in the "ast $as on the Greek 5e!ean -s)an' o+
Fatmos an' at 6aIareth o+ the -ncarnationG(, !ettin! a kno#)e'!e also o+ ho#
the min' o+ man $has( #orke' in bi)'in! an' #orks $e1en( no! in 'ai)y )i+e.
+he t!o things overlap, 'o #an'erin! an' tra1e). -n a)) tra1e) there is some
e)ement o+ #an'erin!, tho!h o+ten 1ery )itt)e tra1e) in #an'erin! n'ertaken
+or its o#n sake. Het are the t#o 'istinct. ?18-1%Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
6o# #e may more c)ose)y consi'er his +rther sai)in! an' tra1e) ?#ith some #an'erin!, tooA
'o#n in the sotheast o+ =ro"e in the Me'iterranean, an' a)so then a+oot in the Ho)y Lan'. 5n' #e
sha)) thereby come c)oser to the matters an' intimate history o+ the 7aith. Er 3e))oc be!ins his essay,
Fatmos,> re+reshin!)y an' mo1in!)yDes"ecia))y +or those #ho ha1e kno#n ?as ha1e -A these 5e!ean
is)an's an' the co)or o+ the sea an' the Lodos #in's ?Greek Notos>A an' others@
4
Some time a!o - ha""ene' to be sai)in! 'o#n soth a)on! the eastern coast o+
the is)an' o+ Fatmos $#ith ="hess itse)+ some 60 mi)es a#ay to the northeast,
no# on the 4rkish main)an' an' ca))e' =+es(, #hich - ha' ne1er seen be+ore
sa1e once +rom a 1ery )on! #ay o++ +rom the #est $+rom a ")ace c)oser to
main)an' Greece(. 6o#, bein! c)ose at han', - #as ab)e to a""reciate it more
eCact)y an' to see ho# the hi!h ot)ine o+ the is)an' $one o+ the northernmost
o+ the Do'ecanese -s)an's( )ea's " to the Monastery o+ St. John to#ar's the
smmit. ?214A
3e+ore 'iscssin! the eCi)e o+ Saint John the =1an!e)ist an' es"ecia))y his eCi)e on Fatmos,
#here ?aron' %6 5.D.A he #rote the )ast book in the 3ib)e, the Book of Apocalypse, 3e))oc #i)) s"eak
o+ the settin! an' the e++ects o+ the Mohamme'ans "on both natre an' hman c)tre #hen those
in1a'ers )ater came to the is)an' ?bt, re!rettab)y, not )ookin! +or #ineA@
*e a)) s"eak o+ the great beauty $that( these 5e!ean is)an's sho#/ an' so they
'o in !enera) ot)ine. 4he sea $there at Fatmos, s"eci+ica))y, the -karion Sea(
#hich is so hea1en)y o+ itse)+ in co)or an' teCtre is ma'e more #on'er+) by
the diversity o+ its $srron'in!( is)an'sDe1ery sha'e o+ he +rom the intense
!reen abo1e the near shores to the )ast amethyst on the horiIon, #hich may be
)an' or may be c)o' a )on! 'ay2s sai) a#ay. 3t one thin! strikes the #estern
eye at once e1en more than co)or, an' that is the bareness of the land.
-t is not the glaring bareness o+ )imestone rocks sch as makes the burning
shores o+ the Fro1ence $in Me'iterranean Sothern 7rance( )ook )ike ha)+
'esert. 4he ron'e' s)o"es o+ Fatmos an' o+ near)y a)) the other is)an's #hich
cro#' a)) those )o1e)y #aters are +erti)e. 4hey !ould bear 'ense !ro#th an'
norish )ar!e trees, as in anti,uity they did. *hat has 'estroye' the +orests
has been the -ohammedan blight. Islam is the enemy of the tree% as it is
the enemy of all patient and continuous effort. ?214-21;A
4hese )ast )ines remin' s, not on)y o+ "atient 1itic)tre, bt a)so o+ 3e))oc2s ear)ier book,
Esto Perpetua ?1%06A,
2
his historica) an' !eo!ra"hic st'y an' 1arie' im"ressions o+ 6orth 5+rica ?the
Ma!hrebA, to inc)'e his 1i1i', e1i'ence-base' treatment o+ the 'estrcti1e e++ects o+ the s''en an'
s#ee"in! Mohamme'an ca1a)ry an' the conse0ent)y en'rin!, tho!h steri)e, im")antation o+ -s)am.
<ontinin! his )ater, com"arab)e re+)ections abot Fatmos, 3e))oc says@
-s)am #i)) ct 'o#n +or +e) or +or bi)'in! or for mere devastation, bt it #i))
not be at the "ains to re")ant, sti)) )ess at the "ains o+ "rotectin! the yon!
shoots a!ainst !oats an' other enemies. So Fatmos, tho!h it is !reen, is bare,
)ike a)) its nei!hbors $nei!hborin! is)an's( bet#een <rete an' the Dar'ane))es.
2 Hi)aire 3e))oc, Esto Perpetua@ Algerian Studies and Impressions ?6e# Hork@ 5MS Fress, 1%6%Da re"rint o+ the 1%06
+irst e'itionA
;
*e 'o not see, #hen #e )ook on it, the thin!s that St. John sa#, #e see
something that has been ravaged. -n St. John2s time, it #as #oo'e'. -t e1en
ha' !ro1es o+ "a)m trees ?a +e# o+ #hich remainA. -t #as hman #ith )ea1es.
.o! it is stripped and naed. ?21;Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
Resmin! his historica))y in+orme' re+)ections abot the c)tra) an' mi)itary e++ects o+ the
ons)a!ht o+ -s)am "on that re!ion an' "on the 1ery )ocation an' 'is"ersion o+ hman habitation,
3e))oc makes an a fortiori obser1ation@
-+ that $res)t( is tre o+ the absence o+ trees, it is e1en more tre o+ the absence
o+ hoses. 4here is no !reater contrast bet#een the east an' the #est o+ the
Me'iterranean, at any rate bet#een the main <hristian "art and the shores
!hich the +urs harried rather than governed, than this 'ra#in! back o+
hman habitation +rom the sea )ine. 4here is no !reater mark o+ !hat the +ur
meant to the inhabitants o+ the Greek is)an's. He meant sporadic massacre
and loot, both #hen he could not "rotect his sbJects +rom "iracy and #hen he
himse)+ +e)) into one of his fits of anti/"hristian rage. -en built under the
shado! of that terror. ?21;-216Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
4hen 3e))oc #i)) ha1e s consi'er the contrastin! +rits o+ 'i1er!in! 'octrines, an' #e are in
nee' o+ hearin! this trth sti)) to'ay@
-+ #e co)' !et a +)) "ictre o+ #hat that sea-#or)' #as in the ear)y <hristian
time $e.g., e1en at the time o+ St. John the =1an!e)ist( an' com"are it #ith #hat
#e see to'ay $i.e., near the mi'-20
th
centry( #e should n'erstan' !hat ruin
false doctrine can bring upon the !orld. 4he ancient "a!anism, bein! a
"re"aration +or the 7aith, 'i' no sch hrt. -t #as Mohamme'anism, the
greatest and most virulent of the '"hristian( heresies (and the most
persistentA, #hich mst bear the b)ame. ?216Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
5+ter these insi!hts an' eC"resse' con1ictions, 3e))oc in1ites s a)so to consi'er, as he #as
"assin! a#ay +rom those +amos bt no# )one)y coasts> ?216A, another eCistentia) theme@ the conce"t
an' rea)ity o+ eCi)e. ?*e mi!ht a)so say "niti1e banishment or ostraciIation.A -n'ee', #hat #as the
meanin! in those 'aysDand long sinceDo+ eCi)e> ?216Dem"hasis a''e'A9 7or, #e mst reca)) that
St. John #as $circa %6 5.D.( eCi)e' to Fatmos. -t #as con1enient)y near to
="hess $100 ki)ometers 'istant(, an' yet thoro!h)y ct o++. -t #as a sma))
")ace, an' there+ore easi)y !ar'e' $by the Romans(, yet there is here an
historica) "rob)em, #hich - ha1e ne1er seen so)1e' an' #hich is this@ #hat is
the e0act meaning of e0ile9 -t #as, #e may say, a sort of free and large
imprisonment. 4he chie+ br'en o+ it ?+or most menA #as separation from
home and friends. 5)) that #e kno#/ bt ho# #as it en+orce'9 ?216-21:Dmy
6
em"hasis a''e'A
5)tho!h the mo'ern #or)' is +)) o+ an e)aborate an' bi0itos "o)ice system both "b)ic
an' "ri1ate> ?21:ADone o+ the recent b)essin!s $sic( o+ ci1i)isation $G(> ?says 3e))oc, "erha"s
ironica))yGA an', as it no# seems, a)so in+)icti1e)y !ro#in! an' !oo' an' har'Dbt, anti0ity #as
more ha"haIar'.> ?21:A Moreo1er,
5 )itt)e ")ace )ike Fatmos co)' be #atche' +air)y c)ose)y, bt it co)' not ha1e
been im"ossib)e +or an eCi)e to make a#ay. Ho# 'i' they kee" an im"ortant
man )ike E1i' $the "oet( on the shores o+ the 3)ack Sea $to the north, an' to
insre that he #o)' 2stay "t2> ?21:A(9 ?21:A
Lea1in! s to consi'er this matter #hich he himse)+ 'oes not s++icient)y n'erstan', 3e))oc
has s imme'iate)y !o on to consi'er another mch )ar!er "rob)em> an' an enormos)y more
im"ortant 0estion.> ?21:A 7or, he a'mits, it arises in the min' as one )ooks at Fatmos +rom the sea>
?21:A an' it nee's to be ans#ere' in a +ashion at once 'e)icate an' "ro+on'> ?21:A/ an'
-t is this@ #hy 'i' there arise an acte anta!onism bet#een the <atho)ic <hrch
an' the ancient ci1i)isation from !hich !e all spring9 4hat ci1i)isation is or
o#n. -t #as the seed plot of the 1aith, the Greco-Roman #or)' #as that
!hich the "hurch permeated% transformed% and ultimately restored in
better form $i.e., <hristen'om( a+ter the or'ea) o+ the Dark 5!es. 2hy 'i' it
$the Fa!an <i1i)isation( str!!)e so against the first stirrings of the +ruth9
?21:-218Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
-n tryin! to ans#er this 0estion #hi)e reco!niIin! a 'ee"er mystery, an' #hi)e e1en
neC"ecte')y mentionin! 4ert))ian ?bt not Jersa)em>A an' a))'in! to the comin! o+ =m"eror
<onstantine, 3e))oc +irst retrns to Fatmos an' to Saint John the =1an!e)ist@
4he eCi)e o+ St. John to Fatmos #as one o+ the 1ery ear)y eCam")es o+ that
con+)ict #hich #as to en're +or more than three )on! )i+e-times. *hat #as
their 0arre) #ith us9 *hy 'i' 4ert))ian say that the t#in sisters, the =m"ire
an' the <hrch should be at one, save that the Caesars could not e Christian9
*hy 'i' it take the <aesars so )on! to acce"t their 'estiny9 *e ha1e ne1er ha'
a com")ete so)tion to that eni!ma.
*e kno# 1ery #e)) #hy the 1ir)ent, 'ebase', mo'ern hosti)ity to the 7aith is
#hat it is. It is the hatred of corruption for health% the hatred of vice for
virtue. But !hy should that !hich made the height of loveliness in verse
and in stone have !restled !ith complete beauty% and attempted to destroy
the only final harmony3 ?218Dita)ics in the ori!ina)/ my bo)' em"hasis
:
a''e'A
-n the )ast three "ara!ra"hs o+ his essay, or 3e))oc sincere)y tries to n'erstan' at )east a
"ermissib)e "art o+ this abi'in! mystery an' en'rin! cha))en!e o+ the 7aith, an' to the 7aith@
- #o)' s!!est that the batt)e $#ith Fa!anism, as 'istinct +rom J'aism( arose
+rom those c)o'e' bt "ro+on' $"ro"hetic9( intimations o+ the +tre, the cry
o+ the nborn,> #hich seem, in some mysterios #ay, to a++ect men before the
e1ent $as 'i' the Messianic Fro"hecy a++ect the eC"ectant(. 4hey $i.e., these
"ro+on' "ro"hetic intimations( make them dimly sentient o+ #hat $in ho"e(
as yet is not% but is to be. $Sch it #as, +or eCam")e, in the eC"ectancy an'
tem"ora) ncertainty before the -ncarnation ha""ene'.( 4he <atho)ic <hrch
'i' not come to 'estroy bt to com")ete. Kn+ortnate)y, that $Fa!an, as #e)) as
that Hebre#, <i1i)iIation( #hich it came to com")ete #as too !ell satisfied
!ith its o!n evil as !ell as its o!n good. 4he threat o+ so mch chan!e $or
necessary con1ersion>( #as a mortal challenge. Hence ?as it seems to meA
the gro!ing friction bet#een the ancient Roman =m"ire an' the <atho)ic
<hrch +or #hich that =m"ire #as so noble a preparation. Hence, - think a)so,
the eC")anation o+ the violence in #hich the "ersection en'e'. 4here #as a
sort o+ s"asm, a )i+e an' 'eath str!!)e at the 1ery en', #hich #e ca)) by the
!enera) name o+ the Dioc)etian "ersection>Dtho!h Dioc)etian himse)+, "oor
man, #as har')y the "rinci"a) c)"rit. ?218-21%Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
4hen 3e))oc #i)) )ook at the )ar!er an' abi'in! cha))en!e o+ the 7aith, hence o+ the
sacramenta) me'iation o+ <atho)ic <hrch, not Jst in the ancient Roman =m"ire. 7or,
4here is abot the <atho)ic <hrch something absolute #hich 'eman's,
"ro1okes, necessitates a))iance or hosti)ity, +rien'shi" or enmity. 4hat trth yo
+in' nchan!eab)e thro!hot the a!es, an' there+ore it is, that on the first
a""earance o+ the <hrch, the challenge is already declaredD an' that is
#hat is meant by Fatmos.
4here #as very much more o+ corse that came into my min' as - $sai)e'(
s)o#)y soth#ar' into the e1enin! a)on! that coast an' beyon' it/ an' o+ a)) the
tho!hts that cro#'e' in, this one "re'ominate'@ *hat a testimony it is to St.
John that his high vision sho)' ha1e been specially challenged by the
enemies o+ re)i!ionG> -t #as not on)y the "a!an #or)' o+ the 5e!ean coast
#hich sin!)e' him ot +or an enemy. -t is, an' has been, much more the
mo'ern anti-<hristian attack #hich is an' has been obsesse' by him.
He $#ho, bein! entrste' to 'o so, took Mary into his home an' heart, a)so at
="hess( is #e)) ab)e to meet it. ?21%Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
-+ #e no# consi'er the a++ectionate #ay Hi)aire 3e))oc re+ers to the Mother o+ Go' in his short
8
essay entit)e' 6aIareth> ?2;8-264A, #e may +rther be b)esse' to re+)ect "on the #omanDthat
mulier fortis>D#ho #as so attenti1e)y an' #arm)y recei1e' by Saint John the =1an!e)ist, a+ter Er
Lor' ha' enJoine' him an' entrste' him to recei1e her as his mother ?an' she him as her ne# sonA.
-n his essay, 6aIareth,> there is mch "re"aratory !eo!ra"hy an' history, inc)'in! the
!eo!ra"hy an' history o+ the <rsa'es, be+ore 3e))oc toches "on more intimate matters o+ moment@
5 stran!er o+ the *est comin! into the Ho)y Lan' 'oes #e)) to enter by the
north....<omin! ths $in by the Damascs roa'>(, the gate of the country is
.a4areth....6aIareth is the true beginning of his &ourney +or a reason more
"ro+on' than !eo!ra"hy an' $sec)ar( history@ .a4areth is the Home.
3eth)ehem is the acta) birth")ace, bt 3eth)ehem is "art o+ the 4ra!e'y. -n
sitation as in the character o+ the e1ents it conts #ith the Ho)y F)aces o+ the
Fassion. -t is a'Jacent to Jersa)em an' there+ore to <a)1ary an' the 4omb. -t is
associate' #ith Hero'2s massacre $o+ the Ho)y -nnocents( an' #ith the 7)i!ht o+
the Ho)y 7ami)y. 4he 3irth stan's har' by the Death an' Sacri+ice, a symbol of
!hat most men find% that they end !here they began.
3t 6aIareth #as that ")ace in #hich a)) the years in #hich a man is ma'e #ere
"asse', thro!h boyhoo' to matrity. .a4areth is the habitation% and the
mother5s house# +o those of a full religion% .a4areth is especially filled !ith
the silence of 6ur Lady and her presence.
-t $i.e., 6aIareth( is in tne $concor'ant( #ith a)) this@ a ha""y, shinin! )itt)e
to#n, c)imbin! "#ar's in a +o)' o+ hi!h bt !ent)e hi))s, the centre of those
7alilean Highlands....4hese Ga)i)ean hi))s ha1e been ca))e' a !atch to!er, as
in'ee' the se"arate hei!ht o+ 4abor, o+ the 4rans+i!ration, on the soth o+ them
is, +or it $this Ga)i)ean ran!e as a #ho)e( comman's the #ho)e )an'/ an' +rom it
the Me'iterranean, a )on! 'ay2s march a#ay be)o#, seems c)ose at han'. 4hey
$these Ga)i)ean hi))s>( mi!ht be ca))e' a)so a citadel, bt a citadel of peace)
and .a4areth is their heart. ?2;%-261Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
5ttem"tin! to con1ey the ambiance o+ 6aIareth, a)so #ith other meta"hors, 3e))oc !oes on to
say@
Ho# mch fresher $6aIareth( is than the other )itt)e to#ns o+ that !orn )an',
and, as it #ere, youngerG - #o)' a''@ Ho# mch more <hristianG> 4he
con1ents an' monasteries ha1e taken "ossession o+ it as they ha1e not o+ any
other to#nDand the soul of it '.a4areth( is the shrine of the 8nnunciation.
4here in that Sacred Place....the eCistin! chrch is bi)t "on a +raction o+ the
o)' site $i.e., #here ha' been the !reat chrch #hich <onstantine bi)t> ?261A(
an' on a 'i++erent aCis. But the air of authenticity remains. -t is the 1ery s"ot
%
$#here the 5nnnciation occrre'(. 5n' i+ anyone ri'ic)e sch a sense o+
certit'e an' ca)) it an i))sion or a "hantasy, )et him take the matter more
"rosaica))y an' ask himse)+, #hat, a+ter a)), #o)' be "robab)e....for it affects
every site connected !ith the Predication and the Passion of 6ur Lord....
-t is historica))y certain that the <hristian commnity ha' a continos
eCistence in Fa)estine +or the better "art o+ a )i+etime a+ter the <rci+iCion an'
Resrrection o+ Er Lor'. *hen the +ina) Roman attack came, there ha' been
a)) those years in #hich to +ami)iarise its members !ith the places associated
!ith 6ur Lord5s life. Is it conceivable that the home of His childhood and
the house !hich His -other best remembered !ould have been forgotten3
?261-262Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
4he inte!rity o+ Hi)aire 3e))oc sho#s itse)+ +rther, as he bi)'s his ar!ment base' on
ascertainab)e +acts an' roote' in his o#n 'e+erence an' re1erence@
-t #as a time $'rin! the years &&-:0 5.D. an' more( o+ constant comin! an'
!oin!, es"ecia))y in that "artic)ar )an'. 6aIareth #as on the cara1an roa' +rom
Damascs to the sea an' on the main roa' #hich ran north#ar' +rom
Jersa)em. 4he time #as a time o+ hi!h ci1i)isation an' o+ 'etai)e' recor'. Is it
conceivable that men o+ the +irst centry, enemies as !ell as friends, #o)'
ha1e ne!)ecte' an' +or!otten the Home !hence this .e! +hingDso detested
by the o++icia) Je#ish #or)' an' the mass o+ the Je#ish "eo")e, so cherished as
the sa)1ation o+ the #or)' by those #ho #ere to +on' the <hrchD
proceeded9
It is not conceivable to a man #ith any kno#)e'!e o+ ho# men2s min's #ork
or #ith a com"etent se o+ his reason that the site of 6ur Lady5s
8nnunciation !ould be forgotten....6o@ those #ho ha1e )ost the 7aith may
'eny the 5nnnciation, for mysteries are not demonstrable, bt that "art o+
the earth #hich #itnesse' the 5nnnciation is certain eno!h/ more certain
than most o+ the sites that are "ointe' ot as matters o+ corse in Fro+ane
History. 8 man may !orship there 'in .a4areth( in security) he is in the
very place. ?262-26&Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
5s #e a""roach the en' o+ this essay on 6aIareth, #e see e1en more o+ the 'ee" an' +aith+)
heart o+ Hi)aire 3e))oc, an' these )ast three #e))-cra+te' ?an' e1ocati1eA "ara!ra"hs mi!ht e1en stan' as
his o#n +ina) *itness to the 7aith. He a)so 'e+t)y an' mo'est)y +irst retrns to the commencement o+
his essay@
- sai' at the be!innin! o+ this $essay( that 6aIareth #as, +or 1arios reasons,
the right entry into the Ho)y Lan'@ the main gate. 4here is a last reason
#hich sho)' be remembere', an' it is "erha"s, the best.
10
.a4areth is Joy. *e be!in the Rosary #ith the commemoration o+ JoyD#e
on)y )ater !o on to the s++erin!. -t is the "rocess o+ hman )i+e, +or the
be!innin!s o+ it are ha""y $sa))y( an' its tra!e'y is ma'e by the "assin! o+
time. So in the greatest of human lives% !hich !as also divine, Joy came +irst
an' the 5!ony at the en'Dbe+ore the G)ory, #hich )ast 'oes not $+ina))y(
be)on! to this #or)'. 9ou !ill find human &oy at .a4areth% the blessed
seclusion of childhood and the as yet un!ounded years.
6aIareth #as a)so the scene o+ the +irst trib)ations an' the +irst o""osition/ but
the note of the place and its meaning lie in the Holy "hildhood% and the
earlier maturity 'of the Sacred Humanity of "hrist( #hen a)) that #as to
come #as sti)) nkno#n to the #or)'. 6o# in tra1e) a man +in's this $sti))
abi'in! ambiance( abot 6aIareth@ that such a note $sch a mark an' tone o+
the Ho)y <hi)'hoo'>( endures to this 'ay. ?26&-264Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
-s this )ast insi!ht not, in 3e))oc2s o#n ear)ier #or's, another sbt)e symbo) o+ #hat most
men +in', that they end !here they began> ?260A9 5n' is it not, "erha"s, at )east a 0iet #ay o+
conse), as #e)) as a "rece"t, that sch men should e1en +rther matre n'er Grace, an' !ro# ">
into :Spiritual "hildhood;Dthat they ?#eA may thereby a)so attain to !ita Aeterna" a "art o+ #hich is
to be the en'rin! S"ernatra) Joy o+ 3eatit'e9
Er 3e))oc a)so s"eaks in his imme'iate)y +o))o#in! essay ?abot <a"harnamA o+ the Fb)ic
Li+e o+ Er Lor' as those supreme three years during !hich the 7odhead created the "atholic
"hurch> ?264Dem"hasis a''e'ADthat 1ery <hrch #hich #as, n'er Di1ine Grace, a)so
commissione' to brin! that inci"ient Gi+t o+ Joy an' then to +oster its <om")etion, its 7ina) 7)+i))ment.
4he G)a' 4i'in!s themse)1es si!ni+y the Fossibi)ity o+ =terna) Li+e> #hi)e retainin! the
<hristian Risk,> hence a)so the Fossibi)ity o+ Er De+ection>Di+ #e sho)' not +aith+))y an' +ina))y
"erse1ere in the a'1entre an' in the .irte o+ Ho"e.
#ratia est #loria incepta$ #loria est #ratia perfecta.>
Sch is the abn'ance an' +))-hearte'ness an' recrrent sensiti1ity to 3eaty con1eye' in
Hi)aire 3e))oc2s o#n 1%42 4ra1e) *ritin!s, as they are to be +on' in his )ast book, sim")y entit)e'
Places. 7or, a!ain an' a!ain, he im")icit)y mani+ests a sancta simplicitas> an' 'ra#s s, a)so, to that
"romise', more abn'ant )i+e. Si fuerit oculus tuus simple%" totum corpus lucidum erit.> ?Matthe#
6@22A
11
<ED5
Since this essay has attem"te', o+ten im")icit)y, to inter#ea1e the )i1es an' si)ences o+ Saint
John the =1an!e)ist an' Er La'y, es"ecia))y thro!h Hi)aire 3e))oc2s "resentations o+ Fatmos> ?near
="hessA an' 6aIareth,> an' ths to "oint to Er Lor'2s o#n Fb)ic Li+e, #hich e++ecti1e)y be!an at
the Marria!e 7east o+ <ana, #e sho)' remember her #or's to her Di1ine Son, as memorab)y recor'e'
by Saint John the =1an!e)ist himse)+@ !inum non haent.> ?John 2@&A
4hs, #e may consi'erDdeficiente vino> ?John 2@&AD the +esti1e )ast essay in Hi)aire
3e))oc2s book, Places, #hich is sim")y, bt !rate+))y, entit)e' 5bot *ine.>
-n this +are#e)) essay, 3e))oc "reser1es both a serios tone an' an irre"ressib)y ironic,
sometimes comic, Rabe))aisian encomiastic eCa!!eration, as #e))@
*ine is "art o+ the so) o+ =ro"e an' "ro"er to orse)1es....*ine seems to me
the test of things European. *ere =ro"eDessentia) =ro"eDto "erish, #hy,
then, #ine #o)' "erish too. 3t !hen !ine disappears, it #i)) be time +or s
to co1er or +aces an' to 'ie/ +or #ithot #ine !e shall not be ourselves any
more. By !ine came the co)mn an' the tem")e, the marb)e +i!res an' the
ri!ht co)ors, all that is permanent in the beauty man has created/ an'
!ithout !ine that beauty !ould sin a!ay. ?2:8Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
Here in =n!)an',> it is tre, #ine has a har' !oin!, bt it sti)) a+ter a +ashion sr1i1es amon!
sch =n!)ishmen as are in tne #ith the ancient tra'itions o+ the is)an', an' o+ its c)tre> ?2:%A/ bt
they no )on!er 'rink it ot o+ !o)' as #as the roya) cstom,> #hich is a "ity, +or - #i)) e1er maintain
that mere contact #ith !o)' $as in a cha)ice( "ro1okes a res"onse in #ine, #hich, #hene1er it meets
!o)' in any +orm, sa)tes a brother an' a t#in.> ?2:%A
<ontinin! his rmbstios e++er1escences an' so)emn concerns abot the man bere+t o+ #ine,
3e))oc, as i+ a!ain in1okin! 7ather 7ranLois Rabe)ais himse)+, eC"ansi1e)y says@
-t has been sai' that Man *ithot *ine is an EC.> 2ould that he !ere as
much as thatG He is somethin! mch #orse than an oC !hen he lacs !ine.
He is a thie+, a mr'erer, a +oo) an' a ra1in! 'es"airin! +e))o#/ or !hat is
much lo!er, a #ashe'-ot nothin!/ an em"tiness. 1or !ine maes man much
more than man maes !ine. Ft 'o#n a co)ony o+ men !here you !ill an'
yo cannot be sre they #i)) make #ine. -n'ee', the !reater "art o+ them +ai)
ho"e)ess)y in the attem"t, even !hen they desire to reach the glory of !ine/
12
maers. 3t tho!h men 'o not a)#ays make #ine, !ine al!ays maes men
every!here. Introduce it to ha)+ men, 0arter men, an' the !reat masses o+ 6o
men, and it turns them into something ne!er% better% stronger% more
permanent% more multiple% deeper rooted% of firmer fibre% better balanced
and% in a !ord, nourished. 7or #ho can be "ro"er)y norishe', if indeed he be
of human stoc, #ithot #ine9 ?280-281Dita)ics in the ori!ina)/ my bo)'
em"hasis a''e'A
6o# re+errin! to the 6e# 4estamentDSaint Fa) in contra'istinction to Saint Lke, the
Genti)e Me'ica) DoctorDor 3e))oc #i)) no# sho# s his o#n +rther com"assion +or a #ine-'e"ri1e'
man an', ths, his re1erence +or certain +orti+yin! o)' cstoms, +or the retrn o+ #hich #e are a)) to
"ray@
St. Fa) sai' to someone #ho ha' cons)te' him ?#ithot rememberin! that,
n)ike St. Lke, he $Fa)( #as no "hysicianA, 4ake a little #ine +or yor
stomach2s sake.> 3t, - say, tae plenty o+ it +or the sake o+ yor so)....$7or,(
+he feeling of loss 'the loss of !ine( !ill pursue a man for hours. 6n this
account our fathers !ere !ont to leave their guests at liberty to call for
!ine according to their desire/ an' yo may rea' in any o)' book !hen
England !as England, ho# men ca))e' +or #ine at the tab)e o+ a host as
tho!h the tab)e #ere their o#n. Pray heaven this !holesome custom shall
return. 3t )ike other ci1i)ise' thin!s it can on)y come back a+ter !reat tra1ai)
an' strain/ for our vagaries and negligence have already three/,uarters
ruined us. ?281Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
Smmin! " some o+ his o#n #i'e tra1e)s 'o#n the years, es"ecia))y as they are memorab)y
associate' #ith #ine, 3e))oc #i)) no# "resent s #ith an eC"ansi1e set o+ Rhetorica) Mestions, as
#e))@
- ca)) that man +ortnate #ho, )ookin! back o1er a )on! )i+e ?sch as mine has
been $at :2G(A, can mark the 1arios sta!es o+ his tra1e) by eC"erience in #ine.
He #i)) say to himse)+, as he turns over in his soul the memories of youth
an' of better times, So), 'o yo remember the #ine #e 'rank on that
hi))si'e o1er)ookin! the Rhine in the better 'ays9 So), #as it not on the K""er
=bro $in S"ain( that yo an' - sat to!ether #ith a companion #ine, strong and
rough but nobly a friend9 So), 'o yo remember ho#, in the midst of Sicily
$at the #e))-"reser1e' Greek rins in beati+) 5!ri!ento9(, +aintin! +rom
+ati!e, a !o''ess came "on yo, sent to you for your deliverance, an'
bearing a pitcher #hich ha' been dra!n for the gods #ho #ere carousing in
a nei!hborin! room9 So), ha1e yo +or!otten a certain #ine o+ 4oraine $o+
7rance( #hich stam"e' itse)+ "on history +or e1er, a)tho!h no recor' o+ it has
been #ritten 'o#n9 So), are you so ungrateful as to recall no more that
#ine #hich ha' been born in a lonely valley o+ the Jra Hi))s $o+ S#itIer)an'(
1&
an' ma'e the s"ot hallo!ed in aeternum9 So), !ill you not not retain the
benediction o+ a certain +)ask "ro'ce' +or yo by a kin')y crone in the Lo#er
5"ennine $o+ -ta)y(, #hereby this a!e' 'ame earned% and shortly after
received% her entry into paradise ?+or #hen - "asse' that #ay a year )ater, she
#as in !)oryA9> 4o a)) these rhetorica) 0estions the soul replies !ith
enthusiastic gratitude, a++irmin! that it ne1er has an' ne1er #i)) +or!et these
revelations granted to it during its little passage through the daylight.
?281-282Dita)ics in the ori!ina)/ my bo)' em"hasis a''e'A
<ombinin! a )itt)e Homer #ith his Rabe)ais, 3e))oc o++ers a +rther enhancement@
6o# at the mention o+ those $Homeric( #or's, its )itt)e "assa!e thro!h the
'ay)i!ht,> I am reminded of a story...to)' by #or' o+ moth "erha"s a
thosan' times....But it is better to repeat a good thing than to let it die. 4he
yon! crate sai' to the bisho" as he $the bisho"( )ay in his )ast i))ness, My
)or', - ha1e bro!ht yo a !)ass o+ that #ine.> 4he yon! crate then knee)in!
by the be' o+ his 1enerab)e "atron brst into tears an' a''e', Eh, my )or'G
Soon yo #i)) be 'rinkin! another an' better #ine in another an' better
#or)'G> 4o this the hierarch re")ie', )itt)e abo1e a #his"er, In a better !orld
my faith constrains me to believe% but a better !ine than this could never
be.> 5n' this, note yo, #as sai' o+ common "ort $#ine(. 2hat !ould he
have said had they given him &ust !hen it !as ripe% &ust !hen it !as
loudest in its praises of the Lord 7od% the !ine of...o+ the year..., !hich all
&ust men of sufficient e0perience 'lie Sancho Pan4a3( no! to be the
greatest !ine of the greatest moment in the history of manind9 3t the
name o+ that vintage and its date - #i)) not "b)ish nti) - see my #ay to....-t
is $,ho#e1er,( not the year, nor the 1ineyar' that 'istin!ishes !oo' #ine,
eCce"tiona) #ine. It is the taste. ?282-28&Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
*ith his characteristic attenti1eness to continity an' tra'ition an' roote'ness, 3e))oc then
s"eaks o+ the barriers to settin! " a stora!e o+ !oo' #ine, #hat may a)so be ca))e' one2s o#n #ise)y
stocke' an' consistent)y "rotecte' #ine ce))ar@
3t +e# to-'ay )ay " a store o+ #ine #ith any kno#)e'!e, 'iscretion, choice,
intention or continity. It used to be the common habit !ith all men !ho
!ere !orthy to consume !ine/ bt in the !enera) 'ec)ine o+ the #or)' that
habit is 'yin! ot. 6o man can bi)' #hat is ca))e' a ce))ar an' maintain it
#ithot constant attention to one home $as 3e))oc himse)+ ha' 'one +or years
at Nin!2s Lan'(/ an' most men are too "oor to enJoy the same home )on!, for
most men to/day have been turned into pauper vagrants....Het - s""ose
that the maing of a &ust and ade,uate !ine/treasure #i)) not be #ho))y
aban'one' an' that some#here in the en's o+ the earth...I shall come again
upon a man !ho has nursed% cherished and preserved an inheritance of
!ine. 4here #ere many sch men !hen I !as young, es"ecia))y in =n!)an'.
14
?284-28;Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
5)tho!h or be)o1e' 3e))oc +orthri!ht)y says that a)as> he is a )itt)e shaky abot it, an' not
too sre> ?28;A, he a)so says, in his conc)sion, somethin! abot a "ossib)e s"ecia) "rotection +or
certain "recios thin!s in the #or)' that are ni0e an' intrinsica))y +ra!i)e an' ths a)#ays 1)nerab)e@
$Het( - am !illing to be)ie1e that for !hat is irreplaceable there is a special
providence@ +or good verse, that rarest o+ +)o#ers/ +or certain landscapes
threatene' by the !ree' o+ men/ +or certain songs o+ contry "eo")e. - #i))in!)y
be)ie1e, there+ore, that true !ine itse)+ sha)) not "erish either thro!h the
'e!ra'ation o+ man or thro!h ob)i1ion. ?28;Dmy em"hasis a''e'A
&
-t is )ike)y that #e sha)) no# )ook "on the Marria!e 7east at <ana in a re+reshin! ne# #ay,
es"ecia))y the com"assionate inter1ention o+ Mary, the 3)esse' Mother@ Et deficiente vino, dicit
&ater 'esu ad Eum@ 2$inum non habent.2> ?Saint John the =1an!e)ist2s o#n Re"ort in John 2@&A
?4his essay is !rate+))y 'e'icate' to my #i+e, Maike, an in'is"ensab)e an' conso)in! he)" to
my 1arie' com"ositions, an' be)o1e' mother o+ or t#o chi)'ren, -sabe))a Maria an' Robert Richar'.A
--7inis--
O 2014 Robert D. Hickson
& 4he rea'er is es"ecia))y encora!e' to rea' Hi)aire 3e))oc2s Heroic Foem in Fraise o+ *ine,> his o#n 1i1i')y mo1in!
an' memorab)e "iece o+ eCce"tiona))y !oo' 1erse,> an' es"ecia))y in his "oem2s sacre' conc)sion. See Hi)aire 3e))oc,
Sonnets and !erse ?6e# Hork@ Shee' P *ar', 1%44A, "".1%;-20&, it bein! the 1ery )ast "oem in this +ine 5ntho)o!y.
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