A Narragansett tom struts his stuff for

the camera.
Heritage turkeys: a fast-growing and profitabIe niche for
adventuresome farmers
$4 per pound vs. 39 cents; great marketing support from consumer groups;
passionate consumers; the feeI-good preservation of a uniqueIy American
breed .. What's NOT to Iike about raising heirIoom turkeys?
By Kristen Corselius
Raising
Heritage Turkeys
Think heritage turkeys might
be a niche for your farm?
Frank Reese and Dr. Don
Bixby offer some issues to
consider before you start.
Bourbon Red tom
Know your markets. Who do
you plan to sell to? Local
restaurants? Grocery stores?
Slow Food members? "Who
will determine what you feed,
how to process your bird, and
the price your market will bear.
Find your feed source.
Reese sold his bird for $3.50
per pound in 2002. When Slow
Food asked to feed his turkeys
certified organic feed this year,
his feed costs suddenly
doubled. He increased his
price to $4.00 per pound this
year.
November 21, 2003:
This holiday season,
thousands of Americans will forgo their normal Large White turkey
to enjoy a different kind of bird. "Heritage turkeys are enjoying a
culinary comeback.
Thanks to the joint efforts of breed conservationists, farmers and
a consumer's movement called Slow Food, demand for heritage
turkeys surged in 2003. A new niche in a corporate controlled
market, heritage turkeys are helping bring turkey genetics and
profits back to the farm.
Heritage Turkeys
"Heritage is a new term for what the industry calls "standard
turkeys. These birds, eight varieties in total, were bred according
to the color and stock Standard of Perfection recognized by the
American Poultry Association in the late 1800s.
Smart, colorful birds raised in barnyards and pastures, standard
turkeys -- such as the Narragansett, Buff and Slate -- provided
meat, eggs, and on-farm pest control until the 1950s. As the
turkey industry became more concentrated, large corporations
eventually monopolized turkey production and breeding. By the
1970s commercially bred birds, developed solely for meat
production and easy processing, displaced the standard turkeys.
The Large White turkey now accounts for 90 percent of the
commercial market with breeding stock held by three international
companies Hybrid Turkeys, British United Turkeys and Nicholas
Turkey Breeding Farms. Though today's turkey is cheaper and
more plentiful, it's come at a price.
Bred solely for meat, the Large Whites have lost their natural
abilities to fly, run or mate a fact that raises concerns for many
consumers interested in animal welfare issues. Widespread
routine antibiotic use to prevent illness, a common practice in
large-scale turkey operations, is also raising public health
concerns. For all it's white breast meat, more people are starting
to think the Large Whites lack flavor.
Locate your processing
faciIity. Finding a plant that
will process small numbers of
the dark feathered birds may
be tricky. Research your
state's food safety regulations
to determine state or federal
inspection requirements.
Start smaII. Heritage turkeys
can be a handful. Frank Reese
recommends new growers first
try 50 to 60 poults.
Order pouIts earIy. f
interested in raising heritage
turkeys for 2004, Bixby
recommends you think about it
now. With current demand
greater than supply, many
hatcheries will sell out of
heritage poults as early as
March.
Put them to work. Turkeys
are working animals. They
thrive when they have a job to
do. Have a plan to use the
birds be it for meat, soil
fertility or pest control.
Consider becoming a
breeder if you enjoy the birds.
Having been a turkey breeder
for years, Reese knows
knowledgeable turkey
breeders are almost as rare as
the turkeys themselves.
Resources
American Livestock Breeds
Conservancy (ALBC)
P.O. Box 477
Pittsboro, North Carolina
27312
www.albc-usa.org
(919) 542-5704
A member-supported
organization dedicated to the
preservation of genetic
diversity in livestock poultry
species. Members get ALBC's
bi-monthly newsletter, their
annual breeders directory and
access to ALBC surveys and
research.
AII American Turkey
Growers CIub, C/O Danny
Williamson
3441 Mustang
Tampa, Kansas 67483
(785) 227-5149
brahmabrama@hotmail.com
A network of North American
turkey breeders committed to
teaching and expanding the art
of traditional turkey breeding.
SIow Food USA
434 Broadway, 6th Floor
New York, NY 10013
(212) 965-5640
www.slowfoodusa.org
An educational organization
committed to preserving rare
food and food traditions. Visit
the Web site for press
coverage on heritage turkeys.
Eat WeII Guide
n 1997 the American Livestock Breed Conservancy (ALBC), an
organization that conserves rare breeds and genetic diversity in
livestock, surveyed North American turkey populations to assess
the genetic status of the breed. They made an alarming discovery
-- a number of the standard turkey varieties including the Buff,
Narragansett and Slate were on the verge of extinction. Bourbon
Red was close behind.
As one of the only domesticated animals to originate in North
America, preservation of the rare breeds is like preserving a
historical building or rare document. t's a piece of American
history. For turkey growers, heritage birds hold important genetic
traits (such disease resistance and temperament) critical to the
turkey's long-term health and survival.
SIow Food quick to the rescue
Though groups like the All-American Turkey Growers Club and
the Society for Preservation of Poultry Antiquities worked for
years to breed and preserve rare turkey varieties, it is a unique
partnership with consumers that is catapulting heritage turkeys to
the radar screen of food lovers nationwide.
Slow Food is an international movement of people committed to
the perpetuation of unique foods and processes endangered by
agricultural standardization. Started in taly 22 years ago, Slow
Food is now 80 countries and 70,000 members strong.
Among its projects is the Ark of Taste. Primarily a media tool,
Slow Food uses it to identify and promote plant and animal breeds
in jeopardy of extinction. n doing so, Slow Food hopes to build
awareness and create market incentives for farmers to protect
them.
When Slow Food USA formed in 2000, Dr. Don Bixby, technical
programs director for ALBC, saw an opportunity to help the
turkey. He nominated four varieties the American Bronze,
Bourbon Red, Jersey Buff, and Narragansett - for entry into the
USA Ark. The turkey's story -- which he says is "so compelling
and so American -- was a natural fit.
The turkeys joined the USA Ark in 2001 and Slow Food started to
promote them. The birds' dark, moist and flavorful meat soon
became a hit with chefs and food writers.
n 2002, 5,000 heritage birds were sold at Thanksgiving. This
year the turkey population has doubled. Though still a tiny fraction
of the industry's 270 million birds, it's a giant step toward the
heritage turkey's preservation.
Heritage turkey farmers
With market demand for the turkeys growing rapidly in 2003, Slow
Food and ALBC approached growers across the country to raise
heritage birds by a set of production standards. Farmers agreed
to raise birds from one of the four varieties and promised to grow
the birds in a "free range, preferably organic, and sustainable
manner. n return, farmers would get a price of $3.50 to 4.00 per
pound and free publicity.
According to Patrick Martin, Slow Food USA's director, the grower
response has been "very positive.
Heritage birds command a premium (consider a store-bought
turkey at 39 cents per pound) because of their genetic value and
added labor costs. They are, on average, much smaller birds (10
lbs for hens, 12 lbs for toms) that take twice as long to mature as
the Large Whites. Still, Frank Reese, an experienced heritage
turkey farmer (Good Shepherd Ranch in Linsborg, Kansas,
www.reeseturkeys.com), estimates that if done properly, growers
can make a nice profit of $60 to $80 per bird. Thanks to careful
selection and breeding, his heritage birds average 18 - 33
pounds. (Reese and other heroes in conserving heritage turkeys
are recognized by the ALBC at www.albc-usa.org/alerts
/Oct13_03.htm)
Has the expensive price turned people away? Not yet, where
marketing is done well. Well-established players in the free range
and organic turkey industry, Mary and Rick Pittman of Mary's
Turkeys in Madera, California (www.marysturkeys.com) agreed to
raise heritage turkeys for Slow Food this year. Seeing the
potential market for the birds, they raised an additional 1,000
Narragansetts and Bourbon Reds. By the end of October they
sold out of heritage turkeys and continue to get requests.
Product of the nstitute for
Agriculture and Trade Policy
www.eatwellguide.org
An online, national guide to
find heritage, organic and
sustainably grown turkeys
raised without routine
antibiotics.

Amy Kenyon, who raises turkeys and grass-fed livestock (Skate
Creek Farms in Meredith, New York), expects to sell out of her
Bourbon Reds and Standard Bronze this year. She sees potential
for many more next year.
For farmers that direct market, Slow Food's free publicity is an
added benefit. "Their access to food writers and restaurants has
been key to increasing awareness about the turkeys, says Bixby.
Articles in the New York Times, LA Times, USA Today and many
regional papers have increased interest in the birds and their
growers.
As Mary's Turkeys prepare to sell their birds nationally this year,
Mary Pittman says the added farm publicity has been invaluable.
"All it took was one-half hour radio talk show with food guru
Gene Burns to help promote the farm. Though it aired in August,
she continues to get calls daily about that show.
Besides the financial rewards, growers enjoy the lively character
the birds bring to the farm. "You either love them or hate them,
says Reese who raised 3,000 heritage turkeys this year. He
fondly adds, "They'll get into everything. Kenyon admits that their
turkeys have had "the run of the farm, but she adds that the
turkeys have been fun to raise and profitable as well.
Heritage turkeys aren't without their challenges. Managing
predators, modifying consumer expectations and finding adequate
processing facilities are important management challenges for
turkey growers. Like any new venture, Reese says growers
should "expect two to five years to establish markets and hone
their systems.
Are heritage turkeys a fad or a long-term market? f groups like
Slow Food continue to spark consumer interest, Dr. Bixby thinks
these breeds will enjoy a revival. He's hopeful that more
awareness of heritage turkeys will pave the way for other rare
breed markets as well. n the meantime, for innovative farmers
willing to raise poultry, heritage turkeys are an opportunity to
diversify, make money and preserve an American tradition.
Despite all the current hoopla, Reese believes the heritage
turkey's fate will truly be secure only when growers bring turkey
breeding back to the farm.
Kristen Corselius is a program associate with the Institute for
Agriculture and Trade Policy (Minneapolis, MN). For questions or
comments, please contact Kristen at kcorselius@iatp.org.
Breed Conservation Award
In 1999, GIenn Drowns, the originaI turkey hero, was
recognized for his efforts to preserve rare breeds. Here's
an excerpt from the speech announcing the award.
By Donald E. Bixby
The Board of Directors established the Breed Conservation
Award in 1995 to recognize significant accomplishments by
individuals to the survival of rare breeds.
n the past we have recognized: Kenneth and Winifred Hoffman
of llinois for their work on behalf of Dutch Belted cattle; Lyle
McNeal of Utah for conservation strategies of Navajo-Churro
sheep and his efforts in re-connecting this breed with the
Navajo people; David and Millie Holderread of Oregon for the
conservation and promotion of rare breeds of waterfowl; Rea
Swan of Kentucky for recovery of the Rocky Mountain horse;
and John Wheelock of Vermont for his role in the survival of the
Milking Devon cattle breed.
The 1998 Breed Conservation Award was presented to "Mr.
Dominique, otherwise known as, Mark Fields of Missouri, for
his exceptional leadership in the conservation of Dominique
chickens.
The Board of Directors presented this year's award at the
ALBC Annual Conference in May. The 1999 recipient is
dedicated to the conservation of turkeys, chickens, ducks,
geese, guineas, and heirloom vegetables. Today, we especially
honor him for his work with turkeys. As an individual, his
contributions are making the difference between extinction and
survival of several kinds of turkeys. For example, this year he is
responsible for the re-discovery of the gray turkey variety.
t is my pleasure on behalf of the ALBC Board of Directors to
present the 1999 Breed Conservation Award to Glenn Drowns
of Calamus, owa. We honor him for his outstanding
contributions to the survival of rare breeds and the conservation
of important poultry genetic resources.
Glenn Drowns operates Sand Hill Preservation Center and
teaches in the public school system in Calamus, owa. We
appreciate his work in promoting and conserving poultry
genetics.
From the American Livestock Breed Conservancy archives, used by
permission. For more on innovative turkey breeders recognized by
the ALBC, click here.