Minimization of Reworks in The Apparel Industry

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.
4 ISSN 2305-8269

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences
2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reserved
www.eaas-journal.org

147

MINIMIZATION OF REWORKS IN QUALITY AND PRODUCTIVITY
IMPROVEMENT IN THE APPAREL INDUSTRY

1
Md. Mazedul Islam

1
Adnan Maroof Khan
2
Md.Mashiur Rahman Khan

Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University, Bangladesh
1

Department of Apparel Manufacturing Engineering, Bangladesh University of textiles.
mazed@daffodilvarsity.edu.bd ; maroof215@gmail.com ; mrktex@yahoo.com

Abstract

The fast changing economic conditions such as global competition, declining profit margin, customer demand for
high quality product, product variety and reduced leadtime etc. had a major impact on manufacturing industries.
The demand for higher value at lower price is increasing and to survive, apparel manufacturers need to improve
their operations through-Producing right first time quality and waste reduction. This paper discusses the quality
and productivity improvement in a manufacturing enterprise through practical study. The paper deals with an
application of methodology in an industry which provides a framework to identify quantify and eliminate sources of
variation in an operational process, to optimize the operation variables, improve and sustain process performance
with well-executed control plans. The application of this paper improves the process performance of the critical
operational process, leading to better utilization of resources, decreases variations & maintains consistent quality
of the process output. The outcome of this observation reflected that an industry may gain higher productivity and
profitability with improved quality product by minimizing reworks activities. It also minimizes cost and improves
internal throughput time. A general overview over this development is given in this paper.
Keywords Costs, Operation, Productivity, Profitability, product Quality, Reworks.

I. Introduction

As the global economic condition changing in a rapid
motion, generally in an industry more focus is given
on profit margin, customer demand for high quality
product and improved productivity. In garment
manufacturing, it is usual few rejected garments after
shipment. Reason, most of the manufacturers believe
that garments are soft goods and non-repairable
defect may occur due to low quality raw materials or
faulty process or employee casual behavior.
However, factory must have check points to control
over this issue. There is no ready-made solution that
can reduce rejection percentage overnight. Each order
is unique. But this paper works suggest how to
handle this issue and bring down rejection rate to
minimum. We see a lot of rejected garment after
shipment. Most of the organization termed these
garments as rejected because those garments cant be
repaired by any means. Reworks in the garments
industry is a common works that hampers the smooth
production rate and focus poor quality products
having an impact on overall factory economy.
Minimization of reworks is a must in quality and
productivity improvement. Rework is a vital issue for
poor quality product and low production rate.
Reworks are the non -productive activities focusing
on any activity that customer are not willing to pay
for. Non-productive activities describe that the
customer does not consider as adding value to his
product. By reacting quicker in minimization of
reworks to make a product as per customer demand
with expected quality, the company can invest less
money and more costs savings. Therefore, a study
was carried out in the garment industry named Opex
& Sinha Textile Group located at Mirpur, Dhaka,
January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4 ISSN 2305-8269


148

Bangladesh at cutting, sewing and finishing section
to identify reworks so as to eliminate them for saving
time, cost and improved product quality.
2. Problem Definition and Methodology

In the Apparel Manufacturing Industry, main raw
material is fabric; others are different types of
trimming and accessories. Operational wastages in
the Apparel manufacturing process are- top surface
rework, printed label rework, sewing fault rework,
pinhole rework, fabric rework Improper fly shape,
and other reworks. The general methodology
followed to minimize reworks is given below.

1. Review of the existing quality system in the
company
2. Identification of defects in the various
departments by collecting data from old
records
3. Analysis of data collected in order to
identify majorly occurring defects
4. Categorization of defects
5. Development of a model Quality Inspection
System
6. Implementation of check sheets to capture
defects in different departments
7. Training on concepts of quality, importance
of maintaining correct data, usage of the
collected data to analyze and solve quality
issues through the tools of quality
8. Introduction of Inline Inspection on Sewing
floor through a pilot run in one line
9. Training on the Sewing floor to QCs,
supervisors and checkers on filling in the
format and on making Cause & Effect
Diagrams
10. Analysis of defects occurring in the check
sheets implemented in various departments
and devising suggestions to improve upon
them
11. Spreading of Inline inspection to other lines
12. Tracking of improvements and comparing
them with previous situation in different
departments
13. Visual communication of performance.
2.1. Review of factory existing Quality System

Fig. 1 Review of Existing Quality System


149

2.1. Identification of Defects
The reports of quality inspections in various departments were studied for the period of January April- 2012.

2.1.1 Cutting Department:

Fig. 2 Lots percentages overview of cutting departments

2.1.2 Sewing Department

Fig. 3 Defect categories wise D.H.U in the sewing department
0.00
1.00
2.00
3.00
4.00
5.00
6.00
5.06
3.36
3.12
2.70
2.63
2.00
1.57
1.30
1.19
1.13 1.11
1.02 0.94
0.68
0.49
0.36 0.34
0.23
0.19
0.10 0.09
OPEN SEAMS JOINT OUT
UNEVEN MARGIN BALANCING OUT
UNEVEN NECK/PLACKET/W.BAND PUCKERING
EXPOSED RAW STITCH ROPING
FULLNESS WRONG LABEL ATTACH/LABEL MISSING
UNEVEN GATHER FABRIC DEFECTS
BROKEN STITCH LOOSE TENSION
SHADE VARIATION WRONG PANEL ATTACH
ZIPPER PLACEMENT HOOK /LACE/ BUTTON PLACEMENT
Defect categories wise D.H.U.
76%
21%
3%
Percentage of lots
PASS
FAIL
HOLD


150

2.1.3 Categorizations of Defects

Sewing Defects: These defects are usually caused by
errors arising from wrong functioning of sewing
machines.
Seaming defects: These defects are usually caused by
errors arising from the interaction of the operator and
machine in the handling of garment.
Placement Defects: These defects are usually caused
by errors arising in marking and cutting as well as
sewing operations in the sewing room or a
combination of these
Fabric defects: These defects are usually caused by
errors arising from the fabric processing like knitting
and dyeing.
Embroidery defects: These defects are usually caused
by errors arising from the embroidery processing of
the garments.

2.1.4 Sewing Department Defects categories wise

Fig. 4 Defect categories wise D.H.U in the sewing department

0.00
5.00
10.00
15.00
20.00
25.00
20.73
14.00
3.37
1.02
0.10
D
.
H
.
U
.

Defect Categories
Defect categories wise D.H.U. (Defects per Hundread Unit)
SEAMING DEFECTS
SEWING DEFECTS
PLACEMENT DEFECTS
FABRIC DEFECTS
EMBROIDERY DEFECTS
Total pieces inspected- 30030
Defects encountered-11778
D.H.U.- 39.22
Where,
Seaming defects- 6224
Sewing defects- 4204
Placement defects-1012
Fabric defects-307
Embroidery defects-31



151

2.2 Stages of Model Development

2.3 Development of Model

2.4 Formats introduced in various departments.

1. Cutting audit format 2. Cutting pattern check
format. 3. Sewing in-line inspection format
4. Sewing end-line inspection format 5. Sewing cause
& effect analysis format. 6. Finishing initial
inspection format

Identification of
various options at the
check points to capture
defects
Selection of various
tools to be used the
model
Developments of
model
Inline
Inspection
through Defect
Frequency
Rating System
Defect
capturing at the
End Line
through check
sheets
Analysis of
defects
Cause & Effect
Analysis of
highest
occurring
Defects
Effective
Solutions
Provided


152

3.0 Experimental Sewing Data

Table.1 Defect categories wise and percentage defectives in the sewing department

D
A
T
E

T
h
r
e
a
d

T
e
n
s
i
o
n

S
l
i
p

s
t
i
t
c
h

B
r
o
k
e
n

s
t
i
t
c
h

R
o
p
i
n
g

P
u
c
k
e
r
i
n
g

U
n
e
v
e
n

f
l
y

s
h
a
p
e

U
n
e
v
e
n

T
o
p

S
t
i
t
c
h

U
n
e
v
e
n

R
a
w

M
a
r
g
i
n

E
x
p
o
s
e
d

R
a
w

s
t
i
t
c
h

L
a
b
e
l

A
t
t
a
c
h
m
e
n
t

M
e
a
s
u
r
e
m
e
n
t

o
u
t

O
t
h
e
r
s

T
o
t
a
l

C
h
e
c
k
e
d

P
i
e
c
e
s

T
o
t
a
l

D
e
f
e
c
t
i
v
e

P
i
e
c
e
s

P
e
r
c
e
n
t
a
g
e

D
e
f
e
c
t
i
v
e

1-Mar 4 56 56 56 100
3-Mar 6 10 4 8 42 22 52
4-Mar 13 9 11 77 22 29
5-Mar 2 2 4 42 5 12
6-Mar 2 9 8 78 12 15
7-Mar 1 6 9 6 67 16 24
8-Mar 10 7 8 75 17 23
10-Mar 1 1 5 4 3 70 10 14
11-Mar 4 3 1 3 2 3 15 139 23 17
12-Mar 9 4 2 3 5 97 17 18
13-Mar 2 3 4 5 55 11 20
14-Mar 5 2 1 3 3 4 116 12 10
15-Mar 2 1 2 5 1 2 3 7 203 18 9
17-Mar 5 1 3 3 9 151 14 9
18-Mar 11 1 11 139 17 12
19-Mar 20 2 3 12 207 29 14
20-Mar 4 2 12 135 14 10
21-Mar 4 2 1 3 87 8 9
24-Mar 2 3 3 2 70 8 11
25-Mar 3 2 2 2 1 94 8 9
TOTAL 1 35 2 72 14 27 30 5 2 55 70 134 2000 339 17


153

4.0 Cause & Effect diagram for major occurring defects and their implemented solutions

4.1 Measurement out of tolerance

Solutions Provided

Cause Solution
Notches improper at pleats Cutting Department was informed about the cause and the reason
identified was misalignment of plies during cutting. This being a
major defect causing activity was asked to be checked 100% in the
audit before sending the bundles to sewing. A template was provided
against which the pieces were checked and in case of any deviation,
white pencil was used to mark pleat positions.
Improper sweep shape after
panel attachment
Bottom trimming was done to make the sweep uniform.

Improper sweep shape
after panel attachment

Notches not proper



154

4.2 Puckering at waistband

Causes

Solution

Improper pre- setting of waistband after thumb
pressing

Pressing was done by steam iron with a spray of starch over it.
This made the handling of the waistband easier while stitching and
thus reduced puckering at the waistband.

Improper pre-setting of
waistband


155

4.3 Roping

4.4 Waistband extension uneven

Causes Solution
Improper folder setting on machine

The folder guide was adjusted and improper materials
handling avoided


156

4.5 Improper fly shape

Causes Solution
Margin not followed while attaching waistband and
waistband edge not finished properly
The operator was instructed to be careful while feeding
and following the margins strictly
Causes Solution
Top stitch is being inhibited by zipper lock underneath

A template was provided to the operator and the stitch
was shifted a little below, altering the fly shape within
tolerance level


157

4.6 Fusing shining marks

5.0 Trend chart showing reduction in defect levels after implemented solutions

Fig. 5 Defects level Reduction in Measurements Out

Causes Solution
Poor quality fusing used Fusing was changed and skilled operator required
0
20
40
60
1-Mar 2-Mar 3-Mar 4-Mar
D.H.U. levels in Measurement Out


158

Fig. 6 Defects levels Reduction in Puckering

Fig. 7 Defects levels Reduction in Roping

0
5
10
15
20
25
D.H.U. levels in Puckering
0
10
20
30
40
3-Mar 4-Mar 5-Mar 6-Mar
D.H.U. levels in Uneven fly shape
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
6
-
M
a
r
7
-
M
a
r
8
-
M
a
r
9
-
M
a
r
1
0
-
M
a
r
1
1
-
M
a
r
1
2
-
M
a
r
1
3
-
M
a
r
1
4
-
M
a
r
1
5
-
M
a
r
1
6
-
M
a
r
1
7
-
M
a
r
1
8
-
M
a
r
1
9
-
M
a
r
D.H.U. levels in Roping


159

Fig. 8 Defects levels Reduction in Uneven Fly Shape

Fig. 9 Defects levels Reduction in Label Attachment

Fig. 10 Defects levels Reduction in Uneven top Stitch

0
5
10
15
20
25
3-Mar 4-Mar 5-Mar 6-Mar 7-Mar 8-Mar 9-Mar 10-Mar 11-Mar 12-Mar
Defects levels in Uneven Top Stitch
Uneven top stitch
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
Defects levels in Label Attachment


160

6.0 Defects analysis in finishing department

Fig. 11 Defects analysis in finishing department

6.1 Recommended Suggestions Implemented to Reduce Defects in finishing section

1.Oil spots: Application of a scrap paper under the
presser feet of sewing machines after the days work
so that the machines which are leaking oil can be
tracked.
2. Proper oiling level to be maintained in order to
prevent leakage of extra oil
3.Operator to take responsibility of cleaning the
machine after lubrication
4. Immediate reporting of oil leakage
Ink/ chalk marks: Usage of good quality markers, the
marks of which are easily washable 2.Avoid using
pencils for marking. 3. Usage of chalks on white and
light colored fabrics.
Soil and dust: 1.Usage of plastic bags for storing and
transportation of pieces. 2. Cleaning of checking
tables and machines before the start of days work 3.
Avoid keeping garments on the floor, using trolleys
for storage. 4. Creating a polyethene sheet partition
between sewing and finishing departments so that
fabric dust doesnt come over to the finishing unit
and settle down on the washed fabric.
Suggestions implemented to reduce no. of uncut &
loose thread: 1.Thread cutting operation to be carried
out after washing in order to counteract unraveling of
threads after washing 2. Use of thread sucking
machine to prevent any loose threads to reach the
checkpoint

0
50
100
150
200
250
239
206
132
106
4 3
3
SOIL/ DUST/ RUST OIL SPOT
STICKER MARKS INK/CHALK MARK
SWEAT MARKS TOBACCO MARK
VEGETABLE MARKS


161

7.0 Department wise results and discussion (Sewing, Finishing and Cutting department)

7.1 Cutting Department

Fig. 12 Overall reductions in defect levels for cutting department

7.2 Sewing Department

Fig. 13 Overall reductions in defect levels for sewing department

0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
0
1
/
0
2
/
0
8
0
8
/
0
2
/
0
8
1
5
/
0
2
/
0
8
2
2
/
0
2
/
0
8
2
9
/
0
2
/
0
8
0
7
/
0
3
/
0
8
1
4
/
0
3
/
0
8
2
1
/
0
3
/
0
8
2
8
/
0
3
/
0
8
0
4
/
0
4
/
0
8
1
1
/
0
4
/
0
8
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
1
-
M
a
r
2
-
M
a
r
3
-
M
a
r
4
-
M
a
r
5
-
M
a
r
6
-
M
a
r
7
-
M
a
r
8
-
M
a
r
9
-
M
a
r
1
0
-
M
a
r
1
1
-
M
a
r
1
2
-
M
a
r
1
3
-
M
a
r
1
4
-
M
a
r
1
5
-
M
a
r
1
6
-
M
a
r
1
7
-
M
a
r
1
8
-
M
a
r
1
9
-
M
a
r
2
0
-
M
a
r
2
1
-
M
a
r
2
2
-
M
a
r
2
3
-
M
a
r
2
4
-
M
a
r
2
5
-
M
a
r
Overall Percent defective trend
Percentage defective


162

7.4 Finishing Department

Fig. 14 Overall reductions in defect levels for finishing department

Cutting lot failure rate reduced to zero percent
generally. Sewing percent defective reduced to
approximately 40%. In finishing, stitching D.H.U.
came down to approximately 8% from 16% as
earlier, uncut thread D.H.U. came down to
approximately 10% from 22% as earlier. Rework
increased the cost of the different work categories
between 2% to 30%. However, some best practices to
control defect generation within the factory were
suggested as- Make the workplace clean from
fabric store to cutting to sewing to washing and
finishing. Place quality control system in proper
place. Implies that sufficient no. of checkers, trained
checkers, checkers making report while checking,
analysis of reports and take action based on the
quality check reports. Conduct training program for
the checkers on how to check piece correctly to
capture defective pieces. Train them to make garment
checking reports. Run quality awareness program for
your employees. Quality standard must be understood
by each employee and everybody have to work to
meet quality goal. No low standard work should be
accepted by the following department. In sewing line
dont allow operators to keep bundles open and each
bundle must be completed before forwarding to the
next. It will help you track missing pieces. It is usual
experience that operators throw pieces under tables
when they make mistake or receive defective
(incomplete) garments from previous operator.
Nobody keeps track of these missing pieces until you
found shortage of garments in finishing. Set standard
operating procedures (SOP) for each task performed
by your employees. SOP for quality control system
for each department. Set audit team to audit your
quality system in a regular interval. These
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
F
a
b
r
i
c

F
a
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t
S
h
a
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e

V
a
r
i
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L
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O
t
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e
r
s
February March April 1- 15


163

recommendations were suggested to the individual department.

8. Conclusion

The suggestive tools developed in this article cover a
comprehensive series of aspects in minimizing
reworks in the sewing section of apparel industries by
ensuring quality production. The importance of the
textile industry in the economy of Bangladesh is very
high. The explosive growth of the RMG industry in
the country, however, has not been enough supported
by the growth of backward linkage facilities. So
manufacturing the quality product is mandatory to
sustain in this global competitive market. Quality is
ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good
Quality increases the value of a product or service,
establishes brand name, and builds up good
reputation for the garment exporter, which in turn
results into consumer satisfaction, high sales and
foreign exchange for the country. The perceived
quality of a garment is the result of a number of
aspects, which together help achieve the desired level
of satisfaction for the customer. However, we should
bear in mind that 1% defective product for an
organization is 100% defective for the customer who
buys that defective product. The study clearly
indicates that by eliminating non-productive activities
like reworks in the apparel industries time as well as
cost are saved by ensuring quality production which
have an important impact on overall factory
economy.

References
[1] Dr P Khanna: Work study, time and motion study,
Dhanpat Rai and Sons, New Delhi, (pp 21-31).
[2] F.M. Gryna, J.A. DeFeo, Quality Planning &
Analysis for Enterprise Quality, Tata McGraw-
Hill, Edition, 2008
[3] (Opex Group) (n.d.). Retrieved december 2012,
from viyellatex group: http//www.opexgroup.com
[4] (viyellatex group)(n.d.). Retrieved december
2012, from viyellatex group:
http//www.viyellatexgroup.com
[5] http//www.asiantextilejournal.com
[6] (Sepal Group)(n.d.). Retrieved december 2012.
From sepal group http//www.sepalgroup.com
[7] (n.d.). Retrieved nov 2012, from fiber 2 fashion:
http//www.fiber2fashion.com
[8]Saroj Bala, Factors Influencing Costing of
Woven Fabrics, The Indian Textile Journal, 2003
[9]Dean J W and Bowen D E., 1994, Management
Theory and Total Quality: Improving Research
and Practice and Theory Development, the Academy
of Management Review 19, (3) PP 392-418.
[10]O.H. Khan, A Study of Six Sigma
Implementation and Critical Success Factor,
Pakistans Ninth International Convention on Quality
Improvement, Karachi, Pakistan, pp. 1-12, Nov. 2005
[11]Hawken, Paul, Amory Lovins, and L. Hunter
Lovins. Natural Capitalism: Creating the Next
Industrial Revolution (New York Little, Brown and
Company, 1999)
[12] Florida, R. Lean and Green The Move to
Environmentally Conscious Manufacturing.
California Management Review 39, (1996) 80-105
[13]Environmental Technology Best Practice
Programmed. (1996). saving money through waste
minimization raw material use, GG25, Crown
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[14]M.Mahajan, Statistical Quality Control,
Dhanpat Rai & Co. (P) LTD. pp.186-206,

Authors Biographies:

Md. Mazedul Islam
The author is associated as Lecturer in
the Department of Textile Engineering
at Daffodil International University,
Dhaka, Bangladesh. His research
interest fields are- Apparel production
and Merchandising, Production
Management. Industrial Engineering,
Apparel and fabric finishing, Textile
and Apparel Quality control, Apparel
Brand management, Apparel Washing
etc.

Adnan Maroof Khan
The author is associated as Lecturer in
the Department of Textile Engineering
at Daffodil International University,


164

Dhaka, Bangladesh. His research
interest fields are- Garments
Technology, Production Management,
Garments Quality Control &
Management, Textile Coloration &
Fabric Structure and design, etc.

Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan
Assistant Professor & Head,
Department of Apparel Manufacturing
Engineering, Bangladesh University
of textiles.

Minimization of Reworks in The Apparel Industry

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