Gordon Ramsay S Ultimate Cookery Course Book

www.hodder.co.
uk
First published in Great Brit ain in 2012
by Hodder & St ought on
An Hachet t e UK company
1
Text copyright Gordon Ramsay 2012
Programme, Programme Mat erial and Format copyright One Pot at o Two Pot at o Limit ed
2012
Phot ography copyright Anders Schnnemann 2012
The right of Gordon Ramsay t o be ident ified as t he Aut hor of t he Work has been assert ed by
him in accordance wit h t he Copyright , Designs and Pat ent s Act 1988.
All right s reserved. No part of t his publicat ion may be reproduced, st ored in a ret rieval syst em,
or t ransmit t ed, in Any form or by any means wit hout t he prior writ t en permission of t he
publisher, nor be ot herwise circulat ed in any form of binding or cover ot her t han t hat in which it
is published and wit hout a similar condit ion being imposed on t he subsequent purchaser.
ISBN 978 1 444 75670 8
Typeset in Bembo and Fut ura
Design by James Edgar at Post 98design.co.uk
Hodder & St ought on Lt d
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www.hodder.co.uk
CONTENTS
COVER
TITLE PAGE
COPYRIGHT
GETTING STARTED
CLASSICS WITH A TWIST
Past a wit h t omat oes, anchovy and chillies
Bacon, pea and goat s cheese frit t at a
Tomat o risot t o
St uffed roast chicken
Miso salmon
Slow-cooked fiery lamb
Beef wellingt ons
Chicken and aut umn veget able pies
Treacle-glazed gammon
Lemon curd t reacle t art
Apple crumble
Coconut pancakes wit h mango slices and lime syrup
Baked cheesecake
FISH
Roast ed cod wit h a walnut , lemon and Parmesan crust
Pan-fried scallops wit h crunchy apple salad
Chilli and spice whit ebait
Grilled seafood wit h sweet pepper sauce
Roast ed mackerel wit h garlic and paprika
Crab and mascarpone crpes
Gordons kedgeree
Sea bream wit h t omat o and herb salsa
Sea bass wit h fennel, lemon and capers
Red mullet wit h sweet chilli sauce
Fish pie
Mussels wit h celery and chilli
MEAT
Pork chops wit h peppers
Sichuan chicken t highs
Pan-fried duck breast s wit h blackcurrant sauce
Smoky pork sliders wit h barbecue sauce
Chicken wit h garlic and chest nut st uffing
St eak sandwiches
Pork st uffed wit h Manchego and membrillo
Easy bollit o mist o
Slow-braised st uffed lamb breast
Chicken and chicory in Marsala sauce
Beef brisket wit h new pot at o piccalilli salad
Roast guinea fowl wit h apple
SPICES
Curry-spiced sweet corn soup
Spicy pancakes
Grilled corn wit h chipot le chilli but t er
Roast ed squash houmous
Noodles wit h chilli, ginger and lemongrass
Spicy beef salad
Viet namese-st yle beef baguet t e
Sichuan dan dan noodles
Jerk chicken
Shawarma spiced chicken wraps
Chilli beef let t uce wraps
Pork neck curry wit h mango salsa
Chocolat e mousse wit h chilli and mango
Fragrant spiced rice pudding
GOOD FOOD FOR LESS
Spicy black beans wit h fet a and avocado
Nort h African eggs
Chicken st ir-fry wit h rice noodles
Home-made gnocchi
Leek and gruyre rost i wit h fried eggs
Spaghet t i wit h chilli, sardines and oregano
Easy fragrant fried rice
Cheat s souffl wit h t hree cheeses
Easy arancini
Lamb wit h fried bread
Spicy sausage rice
Pork and prawn meat balls in aromat ic brot h
Chickpea, cumin and spinach koft as wit h t ahini dressing
Charent ais melon and crme frache
Bread and but t er pudding
COOKING IN ADVANCE
Spicy meat ball soup
Beef meat balls wit h orecchiet t e, kale and pine nut s
Meat balls in fragrant coconut brot h
Beef meat ball sandwich wit h melt ing mozzarella and t omat o salsa
Spicy chut ney
Slow-cooked aubergine
Slow-roast ed pork belly wit h fennel
Coriander, ginger and chilli but t er chicken
Moroccan lamb wit h sweet pot at o and raisins
Slow-cooked beef wit h orange gremolat a
Slow-cooked beef short ribs
Blondies
Caramelised figs wit h ricot t a
COOKING FOR ONE OR TWO
Bruschet t e wit h garlic, t omat oes, caper berries and pecorino
Cannellini bean crost ini wit h anchovy and olives
Farfalle wit h ricot t a, pancet t a and peas
Flat breads wit h fennel and fet a
Sweet corn frit t ers and yoghurt dip
Mushroom and leek past a
Tagliat elle wit h quick sausage-meat bolognese
Spicy t una fishcakes
Chilli dogs
Beef t acos wit h wasabi mayo
Griddled pineapple wit h spiced caramel
Blueberry and ricot t a pancakes wit h yoghurt and honey
COOKING FOR CROWDS
Green papaya salad
Roast ed red pepper, lent il and herb salad
Chopped salad
Green bean salad wit h must ard dressing
Fresh prawn rolls
St icky pork ribs
St uffed lamb wit h spinach and pine nut s
Paella
Roast sirloin of beef
Poached wint er fruit s wit h zabaglione
Raspberry millefeuille
Apricot and frangipane t art
Pimms jellies
BAKING
Olive, t omat o and rosemary focaccia
Soda bread
Mozzarella and rosemary pizza
Leek and pancet t a quiche
Beef empanadas
Easy chicken past illa
Flat breads wit h lemon t hyme ricot t a
Fresh ginger sponge cake
Home-made crumpet
Lemon polent a cake
Lemon t hyme short bread
Indulgent mini chocolat e t art s wit h peanut brit t le
Malt chocolat e doughnut s
BASIC SKILLS
St Clement s souffls
Noodle soup wit h poached egg
Macaroni and cauliflower bake wit h t hree cheeses
Prawn and fet a omelet t e
Spiced lent il soup
Roast ed red onion vinaigret t e wit h green bean salad
Frit t o mist o wit h garlic and saffron mayonnaise
Asparagus wit h lemon and t arragon hollandaise
Lemongrass cust ard cups
INDEX
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
A DECADE OR SO AGO, THERE WAS
A FASHION FOR MICHELIN-STARRED
CHEFS TO PRODUCE THESE INCREDIBLY
COMPLICATED COOKBOOKS.
You know t he sort of t hing I mean where following one recipe meant you had t o t urn t o five
ot her recipes t o prepare t he various st ages before you could even begin t o t ackle t he feat ured
dish. It was crazy, and complet ely failed t o recognise t hat home cooking and rest aurant
cooking are t wo very different t hings.
So t he first t hing I want t o do is t o reassure you t hat t his book isnt going t o be anyt hing
like t hat . Im not set t ing out t o t urn you int o Michelin-st arred chefs here. Im not expect ing you
t o spend hours bent over plat es, t weaking and primping in pursuit of perfect ion. I just want t o
t each you how t o cook and enjoy good food at home. Im going t o st rip away all t he hard graft
and complexit y and show how, from humble beginnings, anyone can produce mout h-wat ering
recipes. Put simply, Im going t o show you how t o cook yourself int o a bet t er cook.
Not t hat Im t urning my back on my experience. Over t he past 25 years Ive been lucky
enough t o work wit h some of t he best chefs in t he world, from Albert and Michel Roux in
London t o Guy Savoy and Joel Robuchon in Paris. Ive held Michelin st ars in many of t he major
cit ies of t he world, including t hree at Rest aurant Gordon Ramsay in London for more t han 10
years now. Like all chefs, Ive learnt an incredible amount along t he way: t echniques, t ricks
cheat s, even t hat I incorporat e inst inct ively int o my cooking every day. Half t he t ime I dont
even know Im using t hem, but t hey are always t here, giving me confidence in t he kit chen.
And believe me, t he best t hing you can have in a kit chen is confidence. I really t hink t hat s
what separat es good cooks from t he mediocre ones. Sure, you need t o be able t o t ast e and t o
mast er a few basics, but being able t o act boldly and decisively, t o have t he confidence t o
ramp up t he seasoning, for example, or t o t urn t he gas up high and use t he heat t o your
advant age t hat s t he real secret . That s what t akes your cooking t o anot her level.
Some people say t hey cant cook t hat given half a chance, t heyll burn wat er. I just dont
buy t hat . I t hink t heyre just not very int erest ed in t rying. Fair enough. Im not int erest ed in
needlepoint and Ill t ell you t hat I cant sew. But in t rut h, t heres no one wit h a genuine int erest
in learning who cant improve and, wit h enough pract ice, become a decent cook. They might
not get t o t he st age where t hey can hold down a job in a professional kit chen, but t hey can
learn t o produce good home cooking and t o get pleasure from it . And if you are already a good
cook? Well, t hat s t he great t hing about cooking t heres always somet hing new t o learn,
anot her way of doing t hings, a different way of combining flavours t hat t ake a recipe in a new
direct ion.
So where do we st art ? Wit h t he absolut e basics, of course. Before you even get t o t urn on t he
gas, t he first job in any new kit chen is always, always, always t o get t o know your environment ,
t o get familiar wit h t he layout and be comfort able wit h where everyt hing is. Are t he pans wit hin
easy reach? Are your sieves close t o hand? Im not t alking about major DIY here. Im not
suggest ing you need t o rip out your kit chen sink and shift it across t he room. It s just a
quest ion of get t ing yourself familiar wit h where everyt hing is. You dont want t o be just about
t o finish off your risot t o and have t o spend 10 minut es looking for t he cheese grat er. That s
t he kind of t hing t hat t hrows you off your st ride and from t hen on youll be playing cat ch-up.
Time spent get t ing yourself ready is never wast ed. Get out t he ingredient s and t he
equipment you need. This mise-en-place, as we call it , is crucial. It set s you off on a calm
course and t akes t he st ress out of cooking. Wit hout it , any professional kit chen would be dead
in t he wat er, and it s equally import ant for t he home cook t oo. Get it right and you have won 90
per cent of t he bat t le.
KITCHEN KIT
Speaking of equipment , what do you need? Less t han you might t hink. Im always suspicious of
people who have every gadget under t he sun because I suspect t hey collect it as a kind of
displacement t herapy, t o make up for t he lack of cooking t hey act ually do. Like a foot baller
whos afraid t o make a t ackle for fear of get t ing grass st ains on his kit , t hey line up t heir
blenders and juicers and past a machines t o look t he part , and t hen let t hem collect dust .
Bet t er t o be a poorly equipped doer t han an over-equipped poser.
Essent ial kit chen equipment st art s and pret t y much finishes wit h a good set of knives and
pans. Armed wit h t hese, t here are not a lot of jobs you cant t ackle. A knife will do t he job of
bot h food processor and garlic press, a pan can be bot h meat mallet and flan t in. Buy t he best
qualit y you can, and by t hat I dont necessarily mean t he most expensive as in everyt hing,
youll somet imes pay over t he odds for fashionable brands but I do mean somet hing built t o
last . Spend t he money now and t hese kit chen workhorses will last you a lifet ime, saving you a
fort une in t he long run.
HOW TO CHOP AN ONION
1. Cut t he onion in half lengt hways, going t hrough t he point ed end and t he root . Peel off t he
papery skin t o get t o t he shiny layers but leave t he root int act or t he juices will st art t o bleed
and make you cry.
2. Make a series of parallel vert ical cut s down t he lengt h of t he onion, st opping just short of t he
root .
3. Holding t he onion st eady, make t wo horizont al cut s t hrough t he onion, again st opping just
short of t he root .
4. Now grip t he onion like a t ennis ball t o hold it t oget her, pushing down wit h your forefinger,
middle finger and ring finger on t op and t humb and pinkie at t he sides. Have your middle finger
slight ly ahead of it s t wo neighbours and use t he knuckle t o guide t he knife down t o make
repeat ed slices, inching your fingers back t owards t he root as you go.
5. You should be left wit h a pile of neat ly diced onion, and a root , which you can t rim more if you
like or reserve for t he st ockpot .
KNIVES
Knives are t he first t hing every aspiring chef buys. I st ill remember t he day I came home as a
pimply t eenager clut ching my first set t ight ly under my arm. From day one, t hey st ay wit h you,
t aken from kit chen t o kit chen and guarded wit h your life. At cat ering college I was t aught t hat
t he t est of a good knife was in t he balance. The blade should be forged all t he way t hrough t o
t he but t of t he handle and you should be able t o balance it on an ext ended forefinger where
t he blade and handle meet .
Most knives are made of st ainless st eel. French st eel is soft er, so easier t o sharpen, but
more vulnerable t o wear. German st eel is harder, so t akes more skill t o sharpen, but it will
maint ain it s sharp edge for longer. Japanese knives, t oo, are made of very hard st eel and t end
t o be light er and more st ylish-looking. I favour Wst hof, a German brand, but t he import ant
t hing is t o find a make t hat feels comfort able in your hand. That way it will become your best
friend.
A basic set of knives should include a 57cm paring knife for peeling fruit and cut t ing small
veget ables, a 20cm cooks knife for chopping, a 12cm boning knife wit h a slight ly flexible blade
for cut t ing around meat and bone, and a 25cm serrat ed or bread knife. Youll also need a
honing st eel t o keep t hem sharp. A blunt knife is far more dangerous t han a sharp one as it
can easily skid off what you are cut t ing and do serious damage t o fingers. Get int o t he habit of
brushing your knife against a st eel every t ime you use it . Hold t he st eel confident ly as you
would a t ennis racket in your left hand (or right , if you are left -handed) and place t he heel of
t he blade (where t he sharpened edge meet s t he handle) on t op of t he st eel near it s base. Now
draw t he knife up t he st eel in a sweeping mot ion so t hat you st roke t he ent ire lengt h of t he
blade against t he st eel, keeping t he angle bet ween t he blade and t he st eel at a st eady 20
degrees. Now hone t he ot her side of t he knife by placing t he blade edge underneat h t he st eel
and repeat ing t he mot ion. Do t his five or six t imes, always alt ernat ing t he side of t he blade,
unt il you have a sharp edge.
Wit h pract ice, youll be able t o build up a rhyt hm and do t his inst inct ively in fast and fluid
movement s, but speed isnt t he issue it s about keeping t he blade in cont act wit h t he st eel
at a consist ent angle and st roking it all t he way t o t he t ip.
If t he knife has lost it s edge, no amount of honing will bring it back. In t hat case youll need
t o regrind t he blade, eit her wit h a household knife sharpener or, bet t er st ill, by asking your
but cher or kit chen shop t o do it for you.
When using a knife, always ensure you are cut t ing ont o a solid surface such as a chopping
board. Glass and marble boards may look t he part , but t hey have no real place in t he kit chen
as t hey will blunt t he knife. Heavy wooden boards, which are what I use at home, are more
knife-friendly but st ill look good. They can be cleaned wit h hot wat er and a lit t le det ergent , but
never leave t hem t o soak. They should be t reat ed periodically wit h oil (wood, veget able, it
doesnt really mat t er, but probably not your best ext ra virgin). Plast ic boards are highly pract ical
as t hey can be put in t he dishwasher. We use polyet hylene boards in t he rest aurant s colour-
coded for meat , fish and veget ables. That s probably overkill for t he domest ic kit chen, but do
be aware of hygiene and cert ainly dont chop anyt hing t hat isnt going t o be t horoughly cooked
on a board you previously used for raw meat . Dont forget , you can always flip a board over if
you need a clean surface.
Make sure t he board is st eady (placing it on a damp dishclot h will prevent it from slipping)
and press what ever you are cut t ing down firmly t o hold it st eady. Always cut forwards, let t ing
t he weight of t he knife do t he work. If your knife is sharp enough, you shouldnt hear a loud
chopping noise as t he blade hit s t he board. You should be using more of a rocking mot ion, wit h
t he point of t he knife st aying largely in cont act wit h t he chopping board.
PANS
Again, buy t he best you can afford. Good-qualit y const ruct ion is key; not only will t he pans last
longer, but t he heavier t hey are, t he more evenly t heyll conduct heat , prevent ing hot spot s
from scorching your food. Look for a weight y pan wit h a copper or aluminium base, and a
st ainless st eel inner lining for ease of cleaning. Most chefs prefer copper because it not only
heat s up quickly but also cools fast , meaning you have more cont rol. It does need more looking
aft er, t hough. Long, heat proof handles should be securely rivet ed, so check t he fixings. Three
sizes 2 lit re, 34 lit re and 68 lit re, all wit h snugly fit t ing lids should see you right for most
jobs. One ot her pan wort h considering is a saucier, which has sloping sides, making it ideal for
reducing st ocks because t he liquid evaporat es more easily. It s also good for making risot t os or
anyt hing else t hat needs const ant st irring. A large, cast -iron lidded casserole t hat can t ransfer
from t he hob t o t he oven is also invaluable, especially for slow braises and wint er st ews.
Youll also need a couple of frying pans: a 20cm pan for omelet t es and a 30cm one for
general frying. These should be ovenproof up t o 200C/Gas 6 so t hat you can st art cooking
somet hing on t he hob and t hen finish it in t he oven a rack of lamb, say, or a t art e t at in.
If your pan doesnt already have a non-st ick coat ing, you can season it by sprinkling it wit h
salt and heat ing it t o a high t emperat ure on t he hob. Then you t hrow away t he salt and rub
t he pan wit h a t hin layer of groundnut or veget able oil. This will give it a prot ect ive layer and
prevent t hings st icking. Once youve finished using it , simply wipe it out while it s st ill hot wit h
more oiled kit chen paper. Dont wash it in det ergent or you will need t o season it again.
I also use a griddle pan for searing st eaks. Pressing t he meat down ont o t he ridged
surface not only creat es a professional-looking finish (especially if you give your st eak a
quart er t urn halfway t hrough cooking t o give cross-hat ched pat t ern), but also gives some of
t he chargrilled flavour youll get from a professional grill.
Well, t hat s t he essent ials out of t he way. But t here are some ot her good kit chen st andbys you
may find useful.
BLOWTORCH
We chefs love a blowt orch. It s great not just for caramelising sugar on t op of a crme brle,
for example but for unmoulding frozen dessert s.
DIGITAL SCALES
The great t hing about digit al scales is not just t hat you can weigh t hings down t o t he last
gram, which is so import ant in baking, but t hat you can weigh everyt hing int o t he same bowl,
set t ing t he scales t o zero bet ween each addit ion, which saves bot h t ime and washing up.
FOOD PROCESSOR
For making past a dough, past ry and crumble t oppings. Choose a processor t hat has a low
st art ing speed as some are t oo powerful and will blow your flour and icing sugar around t he
room when you swit ch t hem on.
FREE-STANDING OR STICK BLENDER
For pureing soups, sauces, making smoot hies or quickly blending a bat t er.
ICE CREAM MAKER
You can make ice cream wit hout a machine, but it will never be as smoot h. There are t wo
t ypes: ones wit h built in coolers, which are much bulkier and more expensive, and t hose where
you have t o freeze t he bowl ahead of using it . What you buy depends on how much you t hink
youll use it .
MANDOLINE
No mat t er how good you get wit h a knife, youll always be able t o slice veget ables more finely
and more quickly on a mandoline (a met al, wood, or plast ic board wit h a sharp met al blade built
in). Choose one wit h a good guard t o prot ect your fingers.
MICROPLANE ZESTER
Not just for zest ing oranges and lemons, but for pureing garlic or fresh ginger.
PESTLE AND MORTAR
Invaluable for crushing and grinding herbs and spices. It gives a coarser, more eart hy t ext ure
t han using an elect ric blender, which is ideal for Asian cooking. It s also great for pounding garlic
t o a past e. Choose a mort ar wit h a large bowl and a heavy-weight pest le.
POTATO RICER
A bit like a giant garlic press, a ricer is essent ial if you want t o make silky smoot h mashed
pot at o. Boiled pot at oes are pushed t hrough t o make t hin st rands, which can t hen be beat en
wit h but t er, milk or cream. You can get a similar result wit h a mouli (a hand-operat ed st ainless
st eel mincer t hat pushes cooked veget ables t hrough perforat ed discs).
PROBE THERMOMETER
A handy device t hat t akes t he guesswork out of cooking meat . There are t wo t ypes: inst ant -
read t hermomet ers for a one-off reading, or alarm t hermomet ers t hat will t ell you when t he
t emperat ure reaches a preset level. This is very useful if you are roast ing meat , for example,
and want t o be sure it is cooked at t he cent re.
SIEVE
Essent ial for st raining st ocks and sauces or for draining veget ables. Choose one wit h a long
handle and a balancing hook so t hat you can rest it over a deep bowl or pan. Conical-shaped
sieves, known as chinois, are part icularly useful when you want t o pure somet hing, as you can
push down wit h t he back of a ladle and exert considerable force.
VEGETABLE PEELER
The swivel t ypes make peeling so much less of a chore, alt hough t o be honest , Ill oft en leave
veget able skins on if Im cooking at home. It s where so many of t he vit amins and nut rient s, and
a lot of t he flavour, are t o be found, so why wast e t hem?
WHISKS
Elect ric whisks are useful for meringues and sponges, but a balloon whisk gives you much more
cont rol and makes it less likely youll overwhip cream.
So having st art ed by saying you dont need much kit , I realise Ive gone on t o ment ion rat her a
lot . I suppose t he best advice is t o buy t hings as and when you need t hem, rat her t han in one
big pre-empt ive shop. That way at least you know everyt hing will be used at least once. But
please, no egg separat ors or garlic peelers. That s what hands and fingers are for.
ONCE UPON A TIME,
WE TOOK COMFORT
IN OUR ROUTINES.
People found it reassuring t o follow t he kind of weekly diet you could t ell t he day of t he
week by. As long as t here was st eak on Wednesdays, fish on Fridays, and a roast on
Sundays, all was well wit h t he world. And woe bet ide anyone who t ried t o change t he way
t hese t hings were cooked. You really could get by wit h just a handful of old fait hful recipes.
In a way, t here was a lot t o be said for t hat . It was proper home cooking, and t he
meals you did cook you became absolut ely expert at . Theres no subst it ut e for repet it ion
when you want t o mast er a dish, and t he old ways cert ainly allowed for plent y of t hat . But
t he worlds moved on. It s a fast er place now, and were spoilt for choice in everyt hing we
do, from going t o t he cinema t o buying a car. Going out t o eat , youll find t hat even t he
smallest t own will t hrow up plent y of choices, from t he usual It alian, Chinese or Indian t o
Mexican, Thai or even Cambodian. Weve grown accust omed t o new flavours and food
t hat excit es us. And yet back at home how many of us are guilt y of get t ing st uck in a rut ,
of always doing t he same old dishes t he same old way? Let s be honest , how many of us
see cooking as a chore?
That s what I want t o change in t his chapt er. I want t o show you t hat cooking can be
fun and excit ing. I want t o encourage you t o look afresh at some familiar ingredient s, and
t o t hrow in a few new ones t oo. Because t he more you cook, t he more confident you
become, and t he more confident you become, t he more youll enjoy spending t ime in t he
kit chen.
Part of t he problem is t hat you open t he fridge or larder door, see t he usual ingredient s
and inst ant ly st art cooking t he recipes you are familiar wit h. You see a t in of t omat oes and
some onions, and you make past a and t omat o sauce. You see half a dozen eggs and you
make a cheese omelet t e. Theres not hing wrong wit h t hat . But I want t o show you how
just a few changes in your shopping habit s, int roducing a couple of new ingredient s, can
t ake your cooking in a new direct ion.
This is always t he best way t o develop t o build on dishes you are already familiar
wit h. If you are used t o roast ing a chicken, t hen it s a small st ep t o st art st uffing it wit h
chorizo and but t er beans, but it t akes it t o anot her level in t erms of flavour. Add some
dried chillies, capers and anchovies t o t hat t omat o sauce and youve got t he most
beaut iful, rich, spicy put t anesca sauce. If you are used t o making a risot t o, why not t ry
pan-frying it in squares (see here) t o give it a new t wist ? Im not saying dont cook t he
basics ever again, but just ring t he changes.
The best place t o st art is wit h your shopping. Ordering your supermarket shop off t he
int ernet is a real t ime-saver, no quest ion, but it does t end t o make us creat ures of habit .
It s very easy t o order t he same t hings week in, week out , and t hat s t he deat h knell for
creat ivit y. Id always suggest you walk around a market or some local shops and see what
cat ches your eye. Ask t he st allholder or shopkeeper what s good at t he moment . Ask him
how he would cook it . Youll be surprised at how much informat ion you can pick up.
TASTING
The ot her t hing I cant urge you enough t o do is t o get int o t he habit of really t ast ing your
food as you cook. It s t he first t hing I t each any new chef in my kit chens and is t he only
way t o underst and how t o combine new flavours. Cooking is far more int uit ive t han you
might t hink, and you should learn t o t rust your palat e it will t ell you if somet hing is
missing.
Oft en it comes down t o building up layers of t he five basic t ast es sweet , sour, salt y,
bit t er and umami. The first four t ast es are self-explanat ory. Sweet ness, of course, comes
mainly from sugar, but also from t reacle, maple syrup, honey, fruit , et c., each bringing a
subt le difference t o t he final dish. It s useful not only for count ering acidit y, but also for
t empering t oo much heat . So if you t hink youve overdone it on t he chillies, add a bit more
sugar. I always add a pinch t o a simple t omat o sauce t oo, as it just helps t o bring out t he
t omat oes nat ural sharpness. Sourness normally comes in t he form of lemon or lime juice,
t amarind or vinegar, and salt iness in a lot of Asian condiment s, such as soy sauce, fish
sauce and oyst er sauce.
Salt you should t hink of as t he backbone t ast e on which t o hang t he ot hers. It really
helps ot her flavours t o shine: a lit t le salt in caramel, for example, exaggerat es it s
sweet ness.
Bit t erness is found in beer, olives, cit rus rind, coffee, cocoa and some veget ables, such
as chicory. It s t he t ast e t o use wit h t he most caut ion as it can set peoples t eet h on edge
and is difficult t o disguise.
Umami was ident ified as a separat e t ast e only in t he last cent ury. It means meat y or
savoury in Japanese, and describes t hat lip-smacking, more-ishness you find part icularly
in soy sauce, dashi and ot her ferment ed or aged foods. It s also in t hings such as Marmit e,
Parmesan cheese and t omat oes.
Asian cooking, in part icular, oft en calls for a balance of t he basic t ast es, especially t he
first t hree: sweet , sour and salt y. Once you underst and t his, you can st art t o experiment
wit h more confidence. Tast e your food. What is it lacking? Salt iness? Add a splash of soy
or fish sauce. A bit more acidit y? Maybe lime juice or rice vinegar. Sweet ness? Mirin or
palm sugar. Wit h pract ice, your cooking will become inst inct ive and all t he richer for it .
CLASSICS WITH A TWIST
Tomat o risot t o
Miso salmon
Beef wellingt ons
Chicken and aut umn veget able pies
Apple crumble
Baked cheesecake
PASTA WITH TOMATOES,
ANCHOVY AND CHILLIES
SERVES 4
Past a and t omat o sauce has become a midweek st andby in every home. In t his classic It alian
dish, we are t aking t hat basic sauce t o anot her level by adding a few st ore cupboard st aples
chilli, anchovies, olives and capers. Ready in t he t ime it t akes for t he past a t o cook, and ut t erly
delicious.
400g dried spaghet t i or linguine
Olive oil, for frying and drizzling
23 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 dried red chilli, crumbled or chopped int o small pieces
1 50g t in anchovies in oil, drained and finely chopped
200g pit t ed black olives, roughly chopped
3 t bsp capers, drained and rinsed
250g cherry t omat oes, halved
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Basil leaves, t o garnish
1. Cook t he past a in boiling salt ed wat er unt il al dent e, according t o packet inst ruct ions.
2. Meanwhile, heat a wide high-sided frying pan or saut pan over a medium heat and add a
glug of olive oil. Fry t he garlic, chilli and anchovies for 12 minut es unt il t he garlic is aromat ic
and t he anchovy is beginning t o melt int o t he oil.
3. Add t he olives, capers and t omat oes t o t he pan and st ir over a medium heat for 45 minut es
unt il t he t omat oes have collapsed and everyt hing is well combined.
4. Drain t he past a and t oss in t he pan wit h t he sauce. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning as
necessary (you probably wont need any salt because of t he salt iness of t he anchovies, olives
and capers).
5. Serve drizzled wit h a lit t le olive oil and garnished wit h basil leaves.
HOW TO COOK PASTA
Always use well-salt ed wat er t o cook past a because it is impossible t o season lat er. The
It alians always use 10g (2 t easpoons) salt for every lit re of wat er. Adding olive oil t o t he
cooking wat er is helpful, but if you really want t o ensure t hat your past a doesnt st ick as it
cooks, use plent y of wat er and t wist t he pan from side t o side a few t imes t o get t he past a
swirling around just aft er youve put it in.
BACON, PEA AND GOATS
CHEESE FRITTATA
SERVES 46
Dont limit yourself t o cheese or ham when filling an omelet t e. This open It alian version is a
meal in it self, and because it is finished under t he grill, doesnt involve any awkward folding or
flipping. Check t hat one of your goat s cheeses is firm enough t o grat e finely if not , firm it up
in t he freezer first .
Olive oil, for frying
8 rashers of smoked st reaky bacon, chopped int o bit e-sized pieces
1 red pepper, deseeded and sliced
3 spring onions, t rimmed and sliced diagonally
150g frozen peas
Handful of basil, leaves roughly chopped
2 goat s cheese crot t ins (about 120g in t ot al)
8 eggs, beat en
34 t bsp grat ed Parmesan cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Preheat t he oven t o 180C/Gas 4.
2. Heat a glug of oil in a 27cm non-st ick ovenproof frying pan and fry t he bacon for 23
minut es. Add t he red pepper and cont inue t o cook for anot her few minut es unt il t he bacon is
golden brown and crisp. Add t he spring onions and sweat for 45 minut es unt il everyt hing is
t ender. St ir in t he peas and heat t hrough. Sprinkle in t he basil, roughly mixing it t hrough t he
veget ables. Cut one of t he goat s cheeses int o chunks and scat t er on t op.
3. Heat t he grill on it s highest set t ing.
4. Put t he beat en eggs in a bowl, add t he Parmesan and season generously wit h pepper. Pour
int o t he pan over t he veget ables and gent ly shake over a medium heat . As t he omelet t e
begins t o set at t he bot t om, grat e t he remaining goat s cheese on t op and season wit h
pepper.
5. Place t he pan under t he hot grill in t he hot oven for 45 minut es unt il cooked t hrough and
golden on t op.
6. Slide t he frit t at a out of t he pan and cut int o wedges t o serve.
TOMATO RISOTTO
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR 2 AS A MAIN COURSE
The secret t o making a good risot t o is t o add your hot st ock very gradually, st irring t o make
sure it has all been absorbed before adding t he next ladleful. This way you can cont rol t he
consist ency bet t er and ensure t he rice st ill has a slight bit e t o it al dent e, as t he It alians call it
when you t ake it off t he heat . This classic risot t o just needs a garnish of rocket or baby
spinach. For a Brit ish t wist , use spelt barley inst ead of rice it has a lovely nut t y flavour.
23 t bsp olive oil
200g risot t o rice
500ml chicken or veget able st ock
50g unsalt ed but t er
100g mascarpone cheese
25g Parmesan cheese, grat ed
1. Heat t he oil in a large frying pan, add t he rice and st ir well t o coat t he grains in t he oil. Bring
t he st ock t o t he boil and add 1 ladleful of it at a t ime t o t he rice, st irring well aft er each addit ion,
unt il t he liquid has been absorbed and t he rice is cooked, but st ill al dent e. (This will t ake about
1518 minut es.)
2. Meanwhile, heat t he but t er in a small saucepan, add t he t omat oes and gent ly cook for about
10 minut es unt il soft . Pass t hrough a mouli or coarse sieve; alt ernat ively, mash wit h a pot at o
masher.
3. When t he rice is cooked, fold in t he mascarpone, Parmesan and t he t omat o mixt ure, adjust
t he seasoning and serve.
HOW TO SERVE RISOTTO AS A CAKE
To remove t he need for last -minut e st irring, you can serve risot t o as a cake. Make t he risot t o
in advance, t aking it slight ly beyond t he al dent e st age (about 20 minut es), t hen add t he
mascarpone, Parmesan and t omat o. Spread t he mixt ure out in a square t in lined wit h
greaseproof paper, cover and chill for 24 hours. When ready t o serve, heat 50g but t er in a
large frying pan. Cut t he risot t o cake int o 4 squares and quickly pan-fry for about 3 minut es on
each side unt il golden, t aking care when you flip t hem over. Serve immediat ely.
STUFFED ROAST CHICKEN
SERVES 46
This is a very simple t wist guarant eed t o impress. The chorizo, bean and t omat o st uffing helps
t he bird t o cook evenly and perfumes t he meat as it cooks. Serve it alongside t he chicken wit h
some st eamed greens or a mixed leaf salad.
1 large free-range chicken, about 2kg
1 lemon
Olive oil, for drizzling
1 heaped t sp paprika (sweet or smoked, as preferred)
400ml whit e wine
FOR THE CHORIZO STUFFING
150200g chorizo, skinned and cubed
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
Bunch of t hyme sprigs
2 400g t ins cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
200g semi-dried/sunblush t omat oes in oil
2. First make t he st uffing. Heat a lit t le olive oil in a large frying pan, add t he chorizo and fry for
about 3 minut es unt il t urning golden. Add t he onion and cook for a minut e or t wo unt il
soft ened, t hen add t he garlic. Cook for a furt her couple of minut es before adding t he leaves
from 3 t hyme sprigs. St ir in t he cannellini beans, seasoning well. Cook for a minut e or t wo t o
warm t hrough. Add t he t omat oes and a couple of t ablespoons of t he oil t hey are st ored in. St ir
t o combine, t hen remove from t he heat .
3. Now prepare t he chicken. Season t he cavit y wit h salt and pepper, t hen fill wit h t he chorizo
st uffing and place a whole lemon at t he cavit y opening, t ucking any excess skin over it . Drizzle
t he chicken wit h olive oil, sprinkle over t he paprika and season wit h salt and pepper. Rub int o
t he chicken skin.
4. Pour t he wine and about 200ml of wat er int o a roast ing t ray and season. Add t he chicken
and t he remaining sprigs of t hyme, t hen cover wit h foil and roast for 1 hour in t he preheat ed
oven.
5. Aft er 1 hour, remove t he foil from t he chicken, bast e wit h t he roast ing juices and t urn t he
oven up t o 200C/Gas 6. Roast for anot her 2530 minut es unt il t he skin is golden brown and
t he juices from t he t high run clear. Remove from t he oven and rest for 15 minut es before
serving.
6. Remove t he lemon from t he chicken cavit y, and squeeze t he juice int o t he pan juices. Whisk
t oget her t o creat e a light gravy if you prefer a t hicker gravy, reduce over a high heat .
HOW TO KEEP CHICKEN MOIST WHILE ROASTING
Roast ing chicken under a t ent of foil wit h st ock and wat er is a lovely way t o keep it moist
during t he first part of cooking. Once it has st eamed for an hour, you simply remove t he foil for
t he final 30 minut es t o brown t he breast s. The result ing chicken will be much plumper and fuller
t han if you had roast ed it all t he way.
MISO SALMON
SERVES 4
Miso is a salt y past e made from ferment ed rice or soya beans and is t radit ional in Japanese
cooking. It gives a rich and sumpt uous flavour t o t his spicy brot h. Poaching is a lovely, delicat e
way of cooking salmon. Keep t he skin on t o st op it from breaking up as t he st ock gent ly
simmers.
3 t bsp light miso past e
750ml fish st ock
2 kaffir lime leaves
12 red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped, t o t ast e
3cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and finely sliced
500g side of salmon, skin on, scaled and pin-boned (see here, st ep 6)
1 pak choi
150g t enderst em broccoli
2 small bunches of enoki mushrooms, separat ed
1 t sp t oast ed sesame oil
Sea salt
Coriander leaves, t o garnish (opt ional)
1. Place t he miso past e in a pan and whisk in t he st ock. Tast e and add a lit t le salt if necessary.
Bring t o a simmer (dont boil t oo rapidly, or it may separat e), t hen add t he lime leaves, chillies
and ginger.
2. Cut t he salmon in half widt hways, t hen add t o t he st ock, skin side down, and gent ly simmer
for 810 minut es, bast ing t he salmon in t he liquid unt il cooked t hrough.
3. Separat e t he pak choi leaves from t he st ems. Chop t he st ems int o bit e-sized pieces and
shred t he leaves. Slice t he broccoli int o bit e-sized pieces.
4. Carefully t ransfer t he salmon t o a plat e wit h a fish slice and pour a small ladleful of brot h
over it . Bring t he st ock remaining in t he pan back t o t he boil.
5. Put t he broccoli int o t he brot h t o cook, and aft er 30 seconds add t he pak choi st ems. Cook
for a furt her 12 minut es, t hen add t he shredded pak choi leaves. Cook for about 1 minut e
unt il wilt ed. Meanwhile, flake t he cooked salmon int o large chunks, discarding t he skin.
6. Just before serving, add half t he mushrooms t o t he brot h. Rub your serving bowls wit h a lit t le
t oast ed sesame oil, t hen divide t he remaining mushrooms bet ween t hem. Add some flaked
salmon and veget ables t o each bowl, t hen spoon over some brot h. Serve immediat ely,
garnished wit h coriander if liked.
HOW TO COOK FIBROUS GREENS
Wit h veget ables such as pak choi and kale, which have quit e fibrous st alks, it is oft en best t o
remove t he leaves and add t hem a few minut es lat er, or else t hey will be overcooked by t he
t ime t he st alks are t ender.
SLOW-COOKED
FIERY LAMB
SERVES 4
I love cooking wit h lamb shanks because t he longer you leave t hem, t he bet t er t hey t ast e.
Three hours may seem a long t ime, but t rust me, once you see t he way t he meat falls off t he
bone, youll underst and. Marinat e t he lamb in t he spice mix overnight if you can as it will really
improve t he flavour. Serve wit h couscous or mashed pot at o.
4 lamb shanks
2 carrot s, peeled and sliced
1 onion, peeled and t hickly sliced
2 bay leaves
1 750ml bot t le red wine
500ml chicken st ock
Small handful of mint leaves, t o garnish
FOR THE MARINADE
12 green chillies, deseeded and sliced, t o t ast e
12 red chillies, deseeded and sliced, t o t ast e
2 t sp smoked paprika
2 t sp dried oregano
1 t sp cumin seeds
2 cinnamon st icks, snapped in half
3 garlic cloves, peeled, roughly chopped and crushed
Olive oil
1. First prepare t he marinade. Mix t he chillies (use only one of each if you dont like hot dishes),
smoked paprika, oregano, cumin seeds, cinnamon st icks, garlic, 1 t ablespoon of olive oil and
seasoning t oget her. Rub t he mixt ure int o t he lamb so t hat it is well flavoured. You can cook
t he lamb st raight away, but if you have t ime, cover and leave t o marinat e for at least 1 hour, or
even overnight .
3. Heat a large casserole dish on t he hob and add a couple of t ablespoons of olive oil. Brown
t he lamb in it for about 6 minut es unt il coloured on all sides, t hen add t he chillies and cinnamon
from t he marinade.
4. Add t he carrot s, onion and bay leaves t o t he casserole and brown for a minut e or t wo. Lift
t he lamb so t hat it is rest ing on t op of t he onions and carrot s. Add t he red wine t o deglaze t he
pan, scraping up t he bit s from t he bot t om, t hen bring t o t he boil and cook for 78 minut es t o
reduce t he liquid by half. Add t he chicken st ock, bring t o t he boil, t hen t ransfer, uncovered, t o
t he preheat ed oven. Cook for 3 hours unt il t he meat is really t ender and t he sauce reduced. (If
t he t ops of t he shanks look like t hey might be drying out , just bast e and occasionally t urn
t hem.)
5. Remove t he cooked meat from t he oven and serve garnished wit h t orn mint leaves and t he
cooking juices spooned on t op.
BEEF WELLINGTONS
SERVES 4
You can dress up a beef Wellingt on wit h foie gras, cep mushrooms, or even t ruffles, but in my
opinion, t hat beaut iful fillet of beef should always be t he st ar. The t rick here is in wrapping t he
mushrooms and beef wit h Parma ham. That seals in t he juices and st ops t he past ry going
soggy.
2 400g beef fillet s
500g mixt ure of wild mushrooms, cleaned
1 t hyme sprig, leaves only
500g puff past ry
8 slices of Parma ham
2 egg yolks, beat en wit h 1 t bsp wat er and a pinch of salt
FOR THE RED WINE SAUCE
2 t bsp olive oil
200g beef t rimmings (ask t he but cher t o reserve t hese when t rimming t he fillet )
4 large shallot s, peeled and sliced
12 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 t hyme sprig
Splash of red wine vinegar
750ml beef st ock
1. Wrap each piece of beef t ight ly in a t riple layer of cling film t o set it s shape, t hen chill
overnight .
2. Remove t he cling film, t hen quickly sear t he beef fillet s in a hot pan wit h a lit t le olive oil for
3060 seconds unt il browned all over and rare in t he middle. Remove from t he pan and leave
t o cool.
3. Finely chop t he mushrooms and fry in a hot pan wit h a lit t le olive oil, t he t hyme leaves and
some seasoning. When t he mushrooms begin t o release t heir juices, cont inue t o cook over a
high heat for about 10 minut es unt il all t he excess moist ure has evaporat ed and you are left
wit h a mushroom past e (known as a duxelle). Remove t he duxelle from t he pan and leave t o
cool.
4. Cut t he past ry in half, place on a light ly floured surface and roll each piece int o a rect angle
large enough t o envelop one of t he beef fillet s. Chill in t he refrigerat or.
5. Lay a large sheet of cling film on a work surface and place 4 slices of Parma ham in t he
middle, overlapping t hem slight ly, t o creat e a square. Spread half t he duxelle evenly over t he
ham.
6. Season t he beef fillet s, t hen place t hem on t op of t he mushroom-covered ham. Using t he
cling film, roll t he Parma ham over t he beef, t hen roll and t ie t he cling film t o get a nice, evenly
t hick log. Repeat t his st ep wit h t he ot her beef fillet , t hen chill for at least 30 minut es.
7. Brush t he past ry wit h t he egg wash. Remove t he cling film from t he beef, t hen wrap t he
past ry around each ham-wrapped fillet . Trim t he past ry and brush all over wit h t he egg wash.
Cover wit h cling film and chill for at least 30 minut es.
8. Meanwhile, make t he red wine sauce. Heat t he oil in a large pan, t hen fry t he beef t rimmings
for a few minut es unt il browned on all sides. St ir in t he shallot s wit h t he peppercorns, bay and
t hyme and cont inue t o cook for about 5 minut es, st irring frequent ly, unt il t he shallot s t urn
golden brown.
9. Pour in t he vinegar and let it bubble for a few minut es unt il almost dry. Now add t he wine and
boil unt il almost complet ely reduced. Add t he st ock and bring t o t he boil again. Lower t he heat
and simmer gent ly for 1 hour, removing any scum from t he surface of t he sauce, unt il you have
t he desired consist ency. St rain t he liquid t hrough a fine sieve lined wit h muslin. Check for
seasoning and set aside.
10. When you are ready t o cook t he beef wellingt ons, score t he past ry light ly and brush wit h
t he egg wash again, t hen bake at 200C/Gas 6 for 1520 minut es unt il t he past ry is golden
brown and cooked. Rest for 10 minut es before carving.
11. Meanwhile, reheat t he sauce. Serve t he beef wellingt ons sliced, wit h t he sauce as an
accompaniment .
HOW TO COOK BEEF TO PERFECTION
The only sure-fire way t o ensure t hat your beef is perfect ly pink is t o check t he int ernal
t emperat ure wit h a probe t hermomet er. It should read 29C.
CHICKEN AND AUTUMN
VEGETABLE PIES
SERVES 23
Ive always loved serving individual pies. It inst ant ly elevat es a casual family dish int o somet hing
a bit smart er, but wit hout really increasing t he work. The t wist here is t hat t he lids are cooked
separat ely from t he pie filling. If serving more t han t wo or t hree people, simply double t he
quant it ies for t he filling, but t he amount of past ry required depends on t he size of your
dish(es). Use t he meat from t he chicken t high and leg as it is less likely t o dry out t han t he
breast .
50g pancet t a, chopped
1 t bsp olive oil
1 leek, t rimmed and sliced
200g celeriac, peeled and cut int o small cubes
200g but t ernut squash, peeled and cut int o small cubes
Handful of t hyme sprigs, leaves only
50ml dry sherry
100ml crme frache
200g puff past ry
Plain flour, for rolling
1 egg yolk, beat en wit h 1 t sp wat er
250g cooked chicken, cut int o chunks
1. Fry t he pancet t a in a hot , dry pan for 34 minut es unt il light ly golden. Tip ont o a plat e lined
wit h kit chen paper. Wipe out t he pan.
2. Heat t he oil in t he pan and saut t he veget ables wit h t he t hyme and some seasoning for
about 7 minut es unt il soft ened. Pour in t he sherry and bubble for 5 minut es unt il well reduced.
Ret urn t he pancet t a t o t he pan and pour in t he st ock.
3. Ret urn t he liquid t o t he boil and cook for 1015 minut es unt il reduced by half. St ir in t he
crme frache and cook for about 5 minut es unt il t he sauce has reduced by about a t hird.
Check for seasoning, t hen remove from t he heat and set aside.
4. Preheat t he oven t o 200C/Gas 6. Roll out t he past ry on a light ly floured surface t o t he
t hickness of a 1 coin. Cut out 2 or 3 rounds, using a small saucer as a t emplat e. Carefully
place t he past ry rounds on a large, non-st ick baking sheet and score t he surface in a diamond
pat t ern, using t he t ip of a small sharp knife.
5. Brush t he past ry wit h t he egg yolk glaze and bake for about 10 minut es unt il risen and
golden. Bake for a furt her 2 minut es wit h t he oven door slight ly ajar, t o help crisp t he past ry.
Remove from t he oven and slide ont o a wire rack.
6. Meanwhile, add t he chicken t o t he sauce and reheat unt il t he meat is warmed t hrough.
Check t he seasoning and divide t he chicken mixt ure bet ween your warmed serving plat es. Top
each pile wit h a past ry round and serve.
TREACLE-GLAZED
GAMMON
SERVES 8
Ive always loved gammon, not just hot wit h mashed pot at o and a cider gravy, but cold wit h
salads and pickles. The sweet st icky glaze st eals t he glory here, but t he poaching liquor has
just as big a part t o play. It s t he chance t o really inject ext ra flavour, especially when you
replace most of t he wat er wit h a couple of bot t les of st out .
1 unsmoked, boneless gammon joint , about 2kg, soaked overnight
1 large onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1 large carrot , peeled and roughly chopped
1 large leek, t rimmed and roughly chopped
1 large cinnamon st ick
2 bay leaves
1 t sp black peppercorns
2 500ml bot t les st out
Cloves, t o st ud
FOR THE GLAZE
60ml t reacle
2 t bsp Dijon must ard
1 t bsp soy sauce
1 t bsp Worcest ershire sauce
60g light soft brown sugar
1. Drain t he gammon and place in a st ockpot or large saucepan. Fill wit h enough cold wat er t o
cover and slowly bring t o t he boil, skimming off any frot h and scum t hat rises t o t he surface
wit h a large met al spoon. Lower t he heat and simmer for a few minut es, t hen carefully pour off
t he wat er along wit h any more frot h and scum.
2. Add t he onion, carrot , leek, cinnamon st ick, bay leaves and peppercorns t o t he gammon in
t he pot and pour in t he st out . Top wit h enough cold wat er t o ensure t he gammon is
complet ely covered. Bring t o a simmer and cook, part ially covered, for 2 hours over a gent le
heat . Skim off any scum during cooking and t op up wit h boiling wat er as necessary.
3. Remove t he gammon from t he pot and rest on a board unt il cool enough t o handle. Preheat
t he oven t o 190C/Gas 5. Peel t he skin off t he ham, leaving behind an even layer of fat about
5mm t hick. Using a sharp knife, score t he fat in a crisscross diamond pat t ern at 1.5cm int ervals,
t hen st ud each diamond wit h a clove. Transfer t he gammon t o a roast ing t ray.
4. Mix t oget her all t he ingredient s for t he glaze and brush half of it over t he gammon. Roast for
15 minut es, t hen pour over t he rest of t he glaze and cont inue t o roast for a furt her 1015
minut es, bast ing every 5 minut es. Remove from t he oven and give t he meat a final bast ing
wit h t he pan juices. Leave t o rest before carving int o t hin slices.
HOW TO STORE THE GAMMON
The boiled gammon can be chilled for up t o 2 days, and once roast ed will keep in t he fridge for
a couple more days. If you arent going t o roast it st raight away, leave it t o cool in t he cooking
liquor so t hat it absorbs even more flavour.
LEMON CURD
TREACLE TART
SERVES 810
I love t he t angy sharpness t hat lemon curd adds t o a classic t reacle t art . Do make sure t he
past ry base is well cooked before you add t he curd or it will go soggy, and t ake t he t art out of
t he oven while it st ill has a slight wobble. It will firm up more as it cools.
450g golden syrup
60g but t er, melt ed
70ml double cream
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
150g whit e breadcrumbs
3 large egg yolks
3 t bsp lemon curd
FOR THE SWEET PASTRY
125g unsalt ed but t er, soft ened t o room t emperat ure
90g cast er sugar
1 large egg
250g plain flour
1. First make t he sweet past ry. Place t he but t er and sugar in a food processor and whiz unt il
just combined. Add t he egg and whiz for 30 seconds.
2. Tip in t he flour and process for a few seconds unt il t he dough just comes t oget her. (Do not
overprocess or it will become t ough.) Add a lit t le ice-cold wat er (around a t ablespoon) if t he
dough seems t oo dry.
3. Knead t he dough light ly on a floured surface and shape int o a flat disc. Wrap in cling film and
chill for 30 minut es before rolling out .
4. To make t he t art , roll out t he past ry on a light ly floured surface t o a large round t he
t hickness of a 1 coin. Use t o line a loose-bot t omed t art t in (2324cm), leaving some excess
past ry overhanging t he rim. Chill for 30 minut es. Meanwhile, preheat t he oven t o 190C/Gas 5.
5. Line t he past ry case wit h baking paper and ceramic baking beans or uncooked rice and bake
blind for 1520 minut es unt il t he base is cooked t hrough. Carefully remove t he beans and
paper and allow t he past ry t o cool a lit t le. While st ill warm, cut off t he excess past ry t o level
wit h t he rim of t he t in. Lower t he oven set t ing t o 140C/Gas 1.
6. To make t he filling, gent ly heat t he golden syrup in a saucepan along wit h t he but t er. (Be
careful not t o boil t his just allow t he but t er t o melt .)
7. When t he but t er has melt ed, st ir in t he cream, lemon zest and juice, breadcrumbs and egg
yolks. Mix well.
8. Spread t he lemon curd over t he base of t he baked past ry case, t hen pour in t he filling.
9. Bake for 3040 minut es unt il t he t op has just set but t he cent re is slight ly wobbly when you
shake t he t in gent ly. It should st ill feel slight ly soft in t he cent re.
10. Let t he t art cool complet ely before slicing and serving.
HOW TO PREVENT PASTRY SHRINKAGE
Past ry t ends t o shrink when cooked t hat s why leaving it overhanging t he t in and t rimming
aft er baking is a good idea. Use a very sharp knife and you will be left wit h a lovely neat edge.
APPLE CRUMBLE
SERVES 4
Who doesnt love crumble? By combining bot h fruit pure and chunks, and sweet , chewy dried
cranberries, Im creat ing layers of t ext ure and int erest beneat h a beaut iful crunchy granola
t opping. Dont worry about peeling t he fruit . Whet her it s apples, pears or peaches, t he flavour
is all in t he skin.
6 t bsp cast er sugar
Pinch of ground cinnamon
1 vanilla pod, seeds only
6 apples, cored but not peeled, 3 of t hem grat ed, 3 cut int o chunks
3 t bsp dried cranberries
Zest of 1 lemon, juice of
FOR THE CRUMBLE TOPPING
100g plain flour
2 t bsp demerara sugar
50g but t er, chilled and cubed
4 t bsp nut t y granola or muesli
2. Heat a small hob-proof baking dish, add t he cast er sugar and heat for about 5 minut es unt il
it caramelises. Add t he cinnamon, vanilla seeds and grat ed apples and cook for 12 minut es.
St ir in t he apple chunks, t hen mix in t he cranberries, lemon zest and juice. Remove from t he
heat and set aside.
3. To make t he t opping, place t he flour, sugar, but t er and cinnamon in a bowl and rub t oget her
wit h your fingert ips unt il t he mixt ure resembles breadcrumbs. Add t he granola and mix unt il
fully incorporat ed.
4. Scat t er t he crumble t opping over t he fruit and heat t he dish again on t he hob. Once t he
apple mixt ure is bubbling, t ransfer t o t he preheat ed oven and bake for 1214 minut es unt il t he
t opping is a deep golden colour. Remove and serve warm.
HOW TO MAKE A CRUNCHY CRUMBLE
Demerara sugar works best in a crumble mixt ure because it st ops t he but t er melt ing int o t he
flour, and adding one-t hird muesli or granola t o t wo-t hirds crumble opens out t he t ext ure t o
give a crunchier result . Finally, only ever sprinkle your t opping over t he fruit . Dont push it down
or it will go soggy.
COCONUT PANCAKES
WITH MANGO SLICES
AND LIME SYRUP
MAKES 12 PANCAKES
This makes t he most brilliant breakfast or brunch, and rings t he changes if you are in a rut of
making t he same old plain crpes wit h lemon or maple syrup. It s import ant t o leave t he bat t er
t o relax for 15 minut es as it will t hicken slight ly, making for fuller, fluffier pancakes.
100g unsweet ened desiccat ed coconut
100g plain flour
1 t sp baking powder
1 egg, beat en
250ml coconut milk (shake t he t in before measuring t o dist ribut e t he solids evenly)
1 t bsp runny honey
Oil, for frying
1 ripe mango
FOR THE LIME SYRUP
150g cast er sugar
Juice of 4 limes, finely grat ed zest of 1
1. To make t he pancake bat t er, put t he coconut int o a blender and blit z for 1 minut e or unt il it
becomes finely chopped. Add t he flour and baking powder and pulse for a couple of seconds t o
combine. Pour int o a mixing bowl.
2. Make a well in t he flour and add t he egg. St ir int o t he flour, t hen add t he coconut milk and
honey, mixing unt il a smoot h bat t er forms. Cover and leave t o rest for 15 minut es.
3. Meanwhile, make t he lime syrup. Put t he sugar, 150ml wat er, t he lime juice and zest int o a
small saucepan or frying pan. Bring t o a gent le simmer and st ir unt il t he sugar has dissolved.
Cont inue t o simmer for 10 minut es unt il t he liquid has reduced slight ly and developed a syrupy
consist ency. Tast e and add a lit t le more lime zest if necessary. Leave t o cool unt il just warm.
4. To cook t he pancakes, heat a lit t le oil in a large non-st ick frying pan, swirling it around t o
cover t he bot t om. Place heaped t ablespoons of bat t er in t he pan (you will probably have t o do
t his in bat ches) and cook over a medium-low heat for 23 minut es unt il golden. Turn over wit h
a palet t e knife and repeat on t he ot her side unt il golden and cooked t hrough. Remove and set
aside in a warm place while you cook t he remaining bat t er.
5. Peel t he mango and cut t he flesh int o t hin slices. Serve t he pancakes wit h slices of mango
and a drizzle of lime syrup on t op.
HOW TO HANDLE HONEY
St icky ingredient s, such as honey, t reacle and golden syrup, can be a mess t o measure out , so
rub t he spoon first wit h a neut ral oil, like grapeseed. The ingredient will slide off immediat ely.
BAKED CHEESECAKE
SERVES 8
If t here is one t hing t he Americans know how t o do, it s how t o make great cheesecakes. The
mixt ure here is like a sweet ened quiche filling, which is slight ly denser and less fluffy t han t he
classic Brit ish cheesecake. But because it has no biscuit base, t he result is less sweet and
heavy.
But t er, for greasing
550g cream cheese, at room t emperat ure
160g cast er sugar
3 eggs, light ly beat en
2 t bsp plain flour
Finely grat ed zest of 1 lemon
200g raspberries
1. Preheat t he oven t o 180C/Gas 4. But t er a 23cm springform cake t in.
2. Beat t oget her t he cream cheese and sugar. Add t he beat en eggs bit by bit unt il combined.
Add t he flour and lemon zest , t hen fold t hrough t he raspberries.
3. Spoon t he mixt ure int o t he prepared cake t in, t apping it against t he work surface t o remove
any bubbles and help t he raspberries rise up from t he bot t om. Bake in t he preheat ed oven for
35 minut es unt il set on t he edges but wobbling slight ly in t he middle.
4. Once cooled, remove from t he t in, running a knife around t he edges t o loosen if necessary,
and serve.
HOW TO ZEST A LEMON
Place a four-sided grat er on a plat e. Using t he side wit h t he smallest holes, rub t he lemon
down it in long, sweeping st rokes, t urning t he fruit a lit t le aft er each st roke so you dont grat e
any of t he bit t er whit e pit h.
GIVEN THAT WE LIVE ON AN ISLAND AND ARE
THEREFORE SURROUNDED BY WATER, IM ALWAYS
SURPRISED WE DONT EAT MORE FISH IN THIS
COUNTRY, OR AT LEAST COOK MORE OF IT AT HOME.
It seems t hat unless it comes covered in bat t er and wrapped up wit h chips, we have a
deep mist rust of it . That s a great shame because, put t ing aside for a moment concerns
about sust ainabilit y and dwindling st ocks, fish is one of t he simplest and most rewarding
t hings t o cook. It really doesnt need any adornment .
If you dont believe me, go out and get yourself a fillet of whit e fish. It doesnt mat t er
what whit ing, plaice, coley, what ever. Now heat a t ablespoon of olive oil in a pan and
while you are wait ing for t hat t o get really hot , dredge t he fish in some seasoned flour,
shaking off any excess. Lay t he fish down in t he hot oil. Give it t hree t o four minut es,
depending on t he t hickness of t he fillet , t hen t urn it over and add a knob of but t er t o t he
pan. Now spoon t he but t er over t he fish, infusing it wit h all t hat lovely fishy, nut t y flavour
as it cooks. Anot her couple of minut es and it should be done. Now slip it ont o a plat e,
squeeze a lit t le lemon juice over it and have a t ast e. Amazing, isnt it ? So simple, yet so
ut t erly delicious. And ready wit hin five or six minut es. If only more people realised how easy
and versat ile fish can be, wed eat a lot more of it , so I hope t he recipes in t his chapt er will
give you t he confidence t o explore t he world beyond t he fish finger.
BUYING
As I ment ioned, t here is right ly much concern about sust ainabilit y. Overfishing has
deplet ed a lot of st ocks worldwide, wit h new species, from t una t o anchovy, being added
t o t he danger list all t he t ime. There are frequent campaigns t o encourage us t o eat less
popular fish pollack inst ead of cod, for example, or dab inst ead of plaice and while it s
import ant t o get t hese messages out , I dont t hink t he occasional fish-eat er should feel
t oo guilt y. Provided t hat t he fish you are buying is cert ified by t he Marine St ewardship
Council, which works t o ensure sust ainabilit y, you can eat fish wit h a clear conscience.
Broadly speaking, fish can be divided according t o six cat egories: freshwat er or
salt wat er, flat or round, whit e or oily. All have t heir own dist inct flavours and t ext ures t hat
suggest how t hey should be cooked, but t hey are oft en int erchangeable. A recipe t hat
calls for mackerel, for example, might work equally well wit h herring because t hey are bot h
oily salt wat er fish; similarly, brill will work in t he place of t urbot . So dont be put off if your
fishmonger doesnt have exact ly what you are aft er. He is sure t o be able t o suggest an
alt ernat ive.
I always like t o buy my fish whole because it gives you more clues about it s freshness, and
t hat is very import ant when buying. Some fish, such as mackerel, will det eriorat e very
quickly, and can t ake on a muddy flavour. Look for bright , glossy eyes, fresh red gills and
firm flesh wit h a shiny, but not slimy, sheen. Cont rary t o popular belief, fish should not smell
fishy but just faint ly briny. St eer clear of anyt hing t ired-looking, especially wit h sunken or
cloudy eyes or dry, soft skin t hat doesnt bounce back when you prod it wit h a finger.
Dont be put off if you see t hat fish has been previously frozen. It may well be fresher
t han t he fresh fish. Deep-sea fishing boat s are oft en out for weeks at a t ime, and bet t er
t hat it is frozen on board rat her t han merely kept on ice. Of course, t his should never be
t he case wit h fish caught by day boat s around our shores.
In an ideal world, wed all buy our fish from t he local fishmonger, who can t ell us what
has just come in, but sadly t hey are disappearing fast er t han independent but chers. If
buying from t he supermarket , it is oft en bet t er t o buy pre-packaged fillet s t hat sit in a
plast ic t ray rat her t han from t he fish count er, as pre-packed fish is flushed wit h inert gas
t o preserve it bet t er. There seems t o be a fashion now t o shrink-wrap fillet s, which I t hink
is t he worst way t o buy fish as it marinat es in it s own juices and t he flesh quickly becomes
wat erlogged and mushy. As a count ry, we are blessed wit h some of t he best seafood in
t he world. Crabs, lobst ers, mussels, oyst ers and scallops all t hrive in our cold wat ers,
producing sweet , juicy flesh. Lobst ers are prohibit ively expensive t hese days, t hough I
oft en prefer t he flavour of crab anyway, which can be really good value, alt hough t he meat
doesnt come out as easily as lobst er meat does. For ease, you can buy t hem ready
dressed, i.e. cracked open, t he flesh removed and picked over, t hen repacked int o t he
empt y shell. Wit h a bit of pract ice, t hey are easy t o dress yourself t oo. When buying a
whole crab, look for one t hat feels heavy for it s size.
Mussels are probably t he most sust ainable seafood on t he planet . Youll find t hem in
large net bags at supermarket s and t hey make a great quick lunch or supper, but for
scallops and oyst ers youll normally have t o go t o a fishmonger or buy online. Molluscs
should always be cooked live, so as soon as you get t hem home, st ore t hem wrapped in a
damp t ea t owel in t he bot t om of your fridge and eat wit hin a day. Clean mussels only
when you are about t o eat t hem. Discard any wit h cracked shells or any open ones t hat
fail t o close when you give t hem a sharp t ap. Now rinse t hem under running wat er, pulling
away t heir st ringy beards and using a knife t o cut away any barnacles.
PREPARING
Fish and seafood somet imes need t o be prepared before cooking. It s easiest , of course, t o
ask your fishmonger t o do t his job for you, but if you have a sharp, flexible knife, it s not
t hat hard once you get t he hang of it . Here are some of t he t echniques you may find most
useful.
HOW TO FILLET, SKIN AND PIN-BONE A FISH
1. Cut t he fishs head off at a diagonal just behind t he gills. Keeping t he fish flat , wit h it s
t ail t owards you, and st art ing at head end, cut t hrough skin along t he lengt h of t he
backbone, using long sweeping st rokes. Arching t he fishs back slight ly wit h your free hand
will make t he skin t aut er and t herefore easier t o cut .
2. Once you have reached beyond t he ribcage, insert t he knife fully and cut along t he
backbone t o t he t ail, releasing t he t ail end complet ely.
3. Now go back t o t he head end and, using your free hand t o pull t he fillet away from t he
backbone, use short st rokes of t he knife t o t ease t he flesh away from t he ribcage. Work
your way down t he fish unt il t he fillet is released.
4. Turn t he fish over, wit h t he t ail away from you, and repeat t he process, keeping t he
knife flat so t hat it st ays as close as possible t o t he fishs backbone.
5. To remove t he skin, place t he fillet skin side down on your work surface. Grip t he t ail
firmly wit h your free hand and cut down t hrough t he flesh, as low down t he fish as you
can, unt il you reach t he skin. Now, pulling t he fish t aut and keeping t he knife angled
slight ly downwards, cut t he flesh away from t he skin using a long sawing mot ion.
6. To remove fine pin bones, use eit her t weezers or a swivel-bladed veget able peeler.
Cat ch t he bones bet ween t he t wo blades and flick up, t wist ing as you do so, t o pull out
t he bones. Pin bones in some larger fish, such as cod, can be difficult t o remove wit hout
t earing t he flesh. These are best removed once t he fish is cooked.
HOW TO SHUCK AN OYSTER
Just before serving, scrub any dirt from t he shell under running wat er. Holding t he oyst er
level in a clean t ea t owel, insert a shucking knife t hrough t he hinge (t apered end) of t he
oyst er and t wist unt il t he shell pops open. Run your knife around t he inside of t he t op shell
t o release t he oyst er. Remove t he t op shell, being careful not t o spill any of it s precious
juice.
HOW TO BUTTERFLY A MACKEREL FILLET
By removing t he backbone from small fish but leaving t he t wo fillet s int act , you make t hem
easier t o st uff and much less fiddly t o eat . Remove t he head, but leave t he t ail. Cut along
t he lengt h of t he belly and place t he fish, belly down, on a work surface. Now push down
on it s backbone t o flat t en t he fish out . Using your fingers and a sharp knife, you should be
able t o work t he backbone free. Dont worry about any small bones as t hey will be soft
enough t o eat .
COOKING
Unlike meat , which doesnt generally require minut e-precise cooking t imes, fish does
require more accuracy. Overcooked fish will dry out and t urn mushy. You want t o bring
your fish t o t he st age where t he flesh has just t urned whit e or opaque inst ead of
t ranslucent , and it divides easily int o individual flakes. The t hinner t he fish, obviously, t he
quicker it will cook. Check by insert ing a sharp knife. If it meet s no resist ance, it s done.
FRYING
This is probably t he most common met hod for cooking fillet ed fish as you have t ot al
cont rol and can easily see when it is cooked. There are a couple of rules. First , as wit h
frying meat , make sure your pan is properly hot . I cant say oft en enough t hat overcoming
t he fear of a really hot pan will improve your cooking no end. This, along wit h confident
seasoning, are t he t wo t hings t hat most mark out a professional chef from an amat eur.
Add olive oil and once it is at smoking point , lay your fish in. It should sizzle on cont act
wit h t he oil. If it is a skinned fillet , especially of whit e fish, which has more delicat e flesh, you
may need t o dust it in flour or breadcrumbs first t o prot ect it from t he heat . However, I
always like t o cook my fish wit h t he skin on because t he skin does t hat job for you and
also adds ext ra flavour. So cook it skin side down for 90 per cent of t he t ime, finishing it off
only briefly on t he ot her side. Dont worry if it looks like it is st icking. If you wait , it will
release it self once it is cooked. The worst t hing t o do is t o keep fiddling and shift ing it
around, or it will break up. During t he last minut e or so of cooking, add a knob of but t er and
bast e t he fish cont inuously t o keep it moist and flavoursome.
GRILLING AND ROASTING
Bot h t hese met hods work well for whole fish and large st eaks, part icularly oily t ypes such
as salmon or mackerel. Somet imes I will pan-fry t hick fillet s first t o get some colour on t he
skin, and t hen finish t hem off in a hot oven for about 10 minut es, t his t ime wit h t he skin on
t he t op. Whit e fish may need brushing wit h oil or melt ed but t er t o st op it from drying out .
POACHING
This is t he gent lest way of cooking fish t o enhance it s delicat e flavour and ensure it st ays
perfect ly moist . The fish is cooked in liquid, somet imes wine, somet imes st ock, somet imes
milk, t o which you can add herbs, spices and veget ables t o infuse t he fish. The key is t o let
t he liquid barely simmer as a rolling boil will break up t he fish. The st ock you are left wit h
can t hen be used t o make a sauce t o go wit h t he fish.
STEAMING
Anot her very easy cooking met hod. You can, of course, use a fish ket t le or st eamer, but it
is more int erest ing t o st eam fish en papillot e, where you wrap t he fish (normally a fillet ) in a
paper or foil parcel along wit h a splash of liquid, herbs and ot her flavourings. The great
t hing about cooking t his way is t hat all t he flavour is t rapped in t he bag and it makes a
great dinner dish because each guest can cut open t heir own parcel.
HOW TO COOK A CRAB
Yes, it is t ime-consuming and fiddly t o cook a crab, but it s also incredibly sat isfying. The
first t hing t o check in a crab is t he weight : it should feel quit e heavy for it s size. A good live
crab will also have ext remely st rong reflexes. A flaccid crab is a half-dead crab, and t hat s
no good because t he minut e it begins t o die, an enzyme is released t hat st art s t o break
down t he meat , making it wet and lacklust re.
Every fisherman and cook seems t o have different opinions on t he correct way t o kill and
cook a crab (for t he most humane way, consult t he RSPCA websit e). I t hink t he simplest
solut ion is t o place it in a large pan of salt ed, cold wat er and boil for five minut es per 500g.
Remove from t he heat , allow it t o cool and prepare t o pick.
Cover t he t able in plent y of old newspaper. Twist t he claws t o remove t hem from t he
body. Now hold t he crab upside-down by it s shell and pull t he abdomen away. Inside t he
shell you will find all t he brown meat . You can now t ake t his meat out wit h a t easpoon and
set it aside for lat er. Next , remove t he crabs gills, or dead mans fingers, from t he abdomen
and t hrow t hem away.
Now, using a sharp knife, dissect t he abdomen. You will be able t o see small t unnels, like a
honeycomb, crammed wit h good, whit e crab meat . Here t he real work begins. Use any
small, sharp inst rument , such as a skewer, t o pick out t he meat , keeping it separat e from
t he dark meat .
Finally, gent ly crush t he claws wit h a hammer or rolling pin and pick out more of t he whit e
meat . There will also be some meat in t he legs but you might feel t hey are not wort h t he
t rouble.
FISH
Roast ed cod wit h a walnut , lemon and Parmesan crust
Gordons kedgeree
Fish pie
ROASTED COD WITH
A WALNUT, LEMON
AND PARMESAN CRUST
SERVES 4
This dish makes a lovely fuss-free supper dish and is very quick t o make. One large fillet makes
an impressive cent repiece but you can just as well use four separat e fillet s of about 180g each.
For a change from cod, t ry haddock, hake or any ot her meat y whit e fish.
1 whole skinless cod fillet , about 700g
Olive oil, for greasing
Lemon wedges, t o serve
FOR THE WALNUT, LEMON AND PARMESAN CRUST
75g but t er
75g walnut pieces
75g fresh breadcrumbs
Grat ed zest of 1 large lemon
75g freshly grat ed Parmesan cheese
FOR THE PARSLEY AND CAPER SAUCE
500ml fish st ock
200ml half-fat crme frache
3 t bsp capers
Small bunch of flat leaf parsley, chopped
1. First make t he walnut , lemon and Parmesan crust . Chop t he but t er int o small cubes and put
int o a food processor. Add t he walnut s, breadcrumbs, lemon zest , t wo-t hirds of t he Parmesan
and some salt and pepper, t hen whiz everyt hing unt il t he mixt ure binds t oget her.
2. Check t he cod for pin bones, removing any you find wit h a pair of t weezers (see here, st ep
6). Lay t he fillet on a light ly oiled non-st ick roast ing t ray, skin side down, and season. Spread
t he crust mixt ure in an even layer over t he t op of t he fish. Chill for 20 minut es unt il t he crust
feels firm.
3. Preheat t he oven t o 200C/Gas 6. Sprinkle t he remaining Parmesan over t he t op of t he
crust , t hen roast t he cod for 2025 minut es unt il t he crust t urns golden and crisp and t he fish
is just cooked.
4. Meanwhile, prepare t he sauce. Pour t he st ock int o a small saucepan and bring t o t he boil.
Cook over a high heat for about 10 minut es unt il reduced by t wo-t hirds. Off t he heat , whisk t he
crme frache int o t he reduced st ock. Ret urn t o a low heat and simmer for 510 minut es unt il
you have t he consist ency of a light pouring cream.
5. Add t he capers and parsley just before serving and adjust t he seasoning t o t ast e. Transfer
t he cod t o a serving plat t er and pour over t he sauce. Serve wit h lemon wedges on t he side.
PAN-FRIED SCALLOPS WITH
CRUNCHY APPLE SALAD
SERVES 2
Scallops are cooked when t he out side is golden brown and t he cent re is just going from
t ranslucent t o opaque. Any longer t han 2 minut es on each side and t heyll go t ough, so it s
essent ial you st and over t hem and remember t he order you put t hem in t he pan. The simple
salad goes equally well wit h crab or lobst er.
6 large scallops, cleaned
Juice of lemon
FOR THE SALAD
1 sharp apple, e.g. Granny Smit h
2 handfuls of lambs let t uce
Juice and zest of lemon
Olive oil
1. First make t he salad. Peel, core and cut t he apple int o julienne st rips. Mix wit h t he lambs
let t uce and season wit h salt and pepper. Add some of t he lemon zest (keeping a lit t le back t o
garnish) and squeeze over t he juice. Drizzle t he salad wit h olive oil and mix well.
2. Heat a large non-st ick frying pan over a high heat unt il smoking hot , t hen add 1 t ablespoon
of olive oil. Lay t he scallops out on a board, pat dry wit h kit chen paper and season one side
wit h salt and pepper.
3. Think of t he frying pan as a clock face and add t he scallops, one by one, seasoned side
down, in a clockwise order, t hen fry for 12 minut es unt il golden brown. Season t he
unseasoned side of t he scallops, t hen flip t hem over in t he same order you placed t hem in t he
pan and repeat t he process. Squeeze t he lemon juice over t he scallops and give t he pan a
good shake.
4. When t he scallops are cooked, t ip t he cont ent s of t he pan ont o a plat e lined wit h kit chen
paper. This will inst ant ly st op t he cooking process, while t he kit chen paper will absorb any
excess oil.
5. Divide t he salad bet ween 2 serving plat es and arrange t he scallops around each pile.
Garnish wit h t he remaining lemon zest and serve immediat ely.
HOW TO CUT JULIENNE STRIPS
Julienne are fine st rips about t he size of mat chst icks. To make t hem, peel and core your
ingredient , as necessary, t hen cut in half or int o quart ers. Place flat side down on a work
surface and cut int o slices about 5mm t hick. Cut t hese slices int o mat chst ick-sized pieces.
CHILLI AND SPICE
WHITEBAIT
SERVES 4
Fresh whit ebait , dust ed in seasoned flour, quickly fried in oil and sprinkled wit h lemon juice is
very quick and simple but makes a great st art er on a summers evening. If you cant find
whit ebait , t ry raw t iger prawns, squid or even crab claws.
1 t sp Sichuan peppercorns
1 t sp coriander seeds
1 t sp dried chilli flakes
600g whit ebait , defrost ed if frozen
Flavourless oil, e.g. groundnut , for deep-frying
4 t bsp plain flour
Lemon wedges, t o serve
1. Toast t he Sichuan peppercorns and t he coriander seeds in a dry frying pan for 12 minut es
unt il aromat ic. Transfer t o a mort ar, add t he chilli flakes and pound wit h a pest le unt il
powdered, t hen set t o one side.
2. Gent ly wash t he whit ebait and pat dry wit h kit chen paper. Pour t he oil int o a deep-fat fryer
and heat t o 170C, or fill a large saucepan one-t hird full of oil and heat unt il a cube of bread
dropped int o t he hot oil sizzles and t urns golden aft er 30 seconds.
3. Season t he flour wit h salt and pepper and mix wit h t he ground spices. Dust t he whit ebait in
t he spiced flour, shaking off any excess, and deep-fry in bat ches for 12 minut es on each side
unt il golden and cooked t hrough.
4. Remove and drain on kit chen paper. Tast e and season wit h a lit t le more salt if necessary.
Repeat wit h t he remaining bat ches.
5. Serve while st ill warm wit h wedges of lemon.
HOW TO SHALLOW-FRY WHITEBAIT
You can shallow-fry t he whit ebait if you prefer. Just cook smaller bat ches at a t ime in less oil.
GRILLED SEAFOOD WITH
SWEET PEPPER SAUCE
SERVES 4
Im always happy eat ing grilled seafood wit h a garlicky mayonnaise, but somet imes it s good t o
ring t he changes. The sauce, somet imes called romesco, originat ed in Cat alonia in Spain, and is
a blend of roast ed peppers, t omat oes, nut s, vinegar and olive oil. You can use it st raight away
but it benefit s from a night in t he fridge for t he flavours t o develop.
4 medium t o large squid, prepared and cleaned
12 king prawns, shell on
2 t bsp chopped parsley, t o garnish
FOR THE SWEET PEPPER SAUCE
2 red peppers
1 t hick slice of ciabat t a or farmhouse whit e bread, crust s removed, t orn int o chunks
Olive oil
3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
3 ripe t omat oes, e.g. plum, on t he vine
60g blanched almonds, t oast ed and roughly chopped
Juice of lemon
12 t bsp sherry vinegar
1. First make t he sauce. Heat a grill unt il very hot . Put t he peppers on a foil-lined baking t ray
and place under t he grill. Cook for 5 minut es, t urning regularly unt il t he skin is blackened and
blist ered all over. Transfer t o a bowl, cover wit h cling film and set aside t o cool.
2. Cook t he bread chunks for 2 minut es in a small frying pan wit h a dash of oil, t hen add t he
garlic and cook for a furt her minut e unt il t he garlic is t ender and t he bread t oast ed. By t his
st age t he peppers should have cooled and it will be easy t o peel and rub off t he charred skins.
Peel, deseed and roughly chop t hem, t hen place in a blender. Roughly chop t he t omat oes and
add t o t he peppers wit h t he bread and garlic. Blit z t o form a rough past e.
3. Add t he smoked paprika, chilli flakes, almonds, lemon juice, vinegar and a pinch of salt and
pepper t o t he blender and blit z unt il well mixed. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning. Wit h t he
mot or running, slowly pour in 100ml olive oil. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning again if necessary.
Allow t o come t o room t emperat ure and st ir well before serving.
4. Prepare t he seafood. Heat a griddle pan over a high heat unt il hot . Light ly score one side of
t he squid in a diamond pat t ern before cut t ing int o st rips. Toss t he prawns and squid t oget her
in a lit t le olive oil and season wit h salt and pepper. Place t he prawns on t he hot griddle and
cook for 23 minut es. St art ing diamond side up, cook t he squid for about 1 minut e on each
side. Leave it t o curl up, and give it a furt her minut e unt il just cooked.
5. Serve t he seafood hot , garnished wit h parsley, and wit h t he sweet pepper sauce alongside.
ROASTED MACKEREL
WITH GARLIC AND PAPRIKA
SERVES 4
I dont know why some people dont like mackerel. Perhaps t hey were put off by t he t inned
st uff at school. It s such a lovely fish, cheap and plent iful, and, served wit h t his gent ly Spanish
vinaigret t e, an absolut e winner. Make sure you dress t he pot at oes while t hey are st ill warm as
t heyll t ake on t he dressing much bet t er.
2 garlic cloves, peeled
2 t sp paprika
1 t sp salt
Olive oil
8 mackerel fillet s, skin on
450g new pot at oes
23 spring onions, t rimmed and finely sliced
FOR THE VINAIGRETTE
Pinch of saffron
1 t bsp whit e wine vinegar
1 t sp Dijon must ard
4 t bsp ext ra virgin olive oil
2. Put t he garlic and paprika int o a mort ar, add t he salt and pound t o a smoot h past e. Add a
few drops of olive oil, t hen rub t he flesh side of t he mackerel fillet s wit h t he past e and set
aside.
3. Make t he vinaigret t e. Put all t he ingredient s int o a small bowl and whisk t oget her wit h a fork.
Season t o t ast e.
4. Line a baking t ray wit h greaseproof paper and brush light ly wit h olive oil. Lay t he mackerel
fillet s skin side up on t he paper and season t he skin wit h sea salt . Roast for 810 minut es unt il
t he skin is crisp and t he fish is cooked t hrough. Remove from t he oven and leave t o rest .
5. Meanwhile, boil t he pot at oes in a large pan of salt ed wat er for about 15 minut es unt il t ender,
t hen drain. Ret urn t o t he pan wit h 1 t ablespoon of olive oil. Crush light ly wit h t he back of a fork,
t hen add t he spring onions and st ir t o combine. Season, t hen add a couple of t ablespoons of
t he vinaigret t e.
6. Serve t he crushed pot at oes t opped wit h t he mackerel and a drizzle of t he remaining
vinaigret t e.
CRAB AND
MASCARPONE
CRPES
MAKES 6 CRPES
This is an unusual way of serving crab but makes a great change from a crab sandwich or crab
wit h chilli, lemon and linguini. The whit e crab meat looks pret t y and has a lovely sweet flavour,
but it s t he brown meat t hat packs t he real punch. I always use a combinat ion of t he t wo, but it
is up t o you.
Pinch of cayenne pepper
4 t bsp chopped chives
Juice and zest of lemon, or t o t ast e
300g cooked whit e crab meat , or mixed whit e and brown meat , if preferred
Lemon wedges, t o serve (opt ional)
FOR THE CRPE BATTER
125g plain flour
Good pinch of salt
1 egg, beat en
275300ml milk
1. First make t he crpe bat t er. Sift t he flour and salt int o a mixing bowl. Make a well in t he
middle and add t he egg. Slowly pour in t he milk, mixing wit h t he flour as you add. Whisk t o form
a smoot h bat t er wit h no lumps, t he t hickness of double cream. Cover and leave t o rest for 15
minut es.
2. Mix t oget her t he mascarpone, cayenne pepper, half t he chives, some lemon juice and zest .
Add some salt and pepper, t hen fold in t he crab meat . Tast e and adjust t he seasoning as
necessary, adding more lemon juice and/or zest and anot her pinch of cayenne or salt and
pepper, as preferred.
3. To cook t he crpes, heat a dash of oil in a small t o medium non-st ick frying pan and swirl
around t o cover t he bot t om. When hot but not smoking, add a small ladleful of t he bat t er, just
enough t o coat t he bot t om of t he pan, and swirl t o spread it out t hinly.
4. Cook on one side for 11 minut es unt il golden, t hen flip t he crpes and repeat on t he
ot her side. Transfer t o a plat e and keep warm while using t he remaining bat t er in t he same
way.
5. To serve, place spoonfuls of t he crab mascarpone mixt ure in t he cent re of t he warm crpes,
fold t hem over it and garnish wit h a sprinkling of t he remaining chopped chives. Serve wit h
lemon wedges, if desired.
GORDONS
KEDGEREE
SERVES 46
Kedgeree is wonderfully comfort ing, especially aft er a hard night , and very easy t o make.
To enrich it at t he end and make a light er dish, Ive used nat ural yoghurt inst ead of t he more
usual but t er or cream. Hot -smoked t rout or even mackerel work just as well as smoked
haddock, but in t hese cases use plain wat er t o cook t he rice.
2 bay leaves
700g undyed smoked haddock fillet s, pin-boned (see here, st ep 6)
110g but t er or ghee
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped or 1 bunch of spring onions, t rimmed and finely chopped
Thumb-sized piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and grat ed
2 t bsp curry powder
1 t bsp must ard seeds
2 t omat oes, seeded and chopped
170g long-grain or basmat i rice
Juice of 2 lemons
100g nat ural yoghurt
TO SERVE
2 good handfuls of coriander, leaves chopped
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
4 large eggs, boiled for about 5 minut es wit h yolks left soft , peeled and halved
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Heat 750ml wat er and t he bay leaves in a large frying pan and bring t o a simmer. Put in t he
haddock, skin side up, and simmer for 5 minut es unt il t he fish feels flaky and is cooked t hrough.
Remove wit h a fish slice and drain on a plat e. Reserve t he cooking liquid.
2. In a second pan, melt t he but t er, add t he garlic and onion and gent ly fry for a couple of
minut es. Add t he ginger, curry powder, must ard seeds and t omat oes and cook for a furt her 3
minut es unt il t he onions have soft ened.
3. Add t he rice, st ir a couple of t imes t o coat it in t he but t er, t hen gradually add t he lemon juice
and cooking liquid from t he fish, st irring well aft er each addit ion. (This should t ake about 20
minut es.)
4. Carefully pull t he skin off t he haddock and flake t he flesh, checking for any bones, t hen st ir
int o t he rice along wit h t he yoghurt .
5. To serve, divide t he kedgeree bet ween 4 warmed serving plat es, sprinkle on t he coriander
and chilli, t op wit h t he eggs and season wit h salt and pepper.
SEA BREAM WITH TOMATO
AND HERB SALSA
SERVES 2
This is a beaut iful way of serving all kinds of fish fillet s, from sea bream t o sea bass or even
cod. The salsa is effect ively a warm vinaigret t e, so dont heat it t oo vigorously. The idea is just
t o encourage t he flavours t o mingle so t hey cut t hrough t he fish.
2 sea bream fillet s, about 150g each
FOR THE TOMATO AND HERB SALSA
Olive oil
200g cherry t omat oes
60g pit t ed black olives (Kalamat a if possible), drained
Small bunch of coriander
Small bunch of basil
1 lemon
1. First make t he salsa. Place a small saucepan over a gent le heat and add 3 t ablespoons of
olive oil. Chop t he t omat oes in half and add t o t he oil. Add t he olives, season wit h salt and
pepper and st ir over a low heat for 12 minut es. Set aside.
2. Hold t he coriander and basil st alks t oget her and slice down wit h a sharp knife t o shave off
t he leaves. Discard t he st alks, t hen gent ly roll t he coriander and basil leaves int o a ball and
chop. Keeping a lit t le back for garnish, add t he coriander and basil t o t he salsa and st ir t o
combine.
3. Roll t he lemon on a chopping board t o soft en it and release t he juices, t hen cut in half. Add
t he juice of one half t o t he pan, st ir and set t he salsa aside t o allow t he flavours t o infuse.
4. To cook t he bream, heat a heavy-based frying pan over a high heat . Meanwhile, slash t he
skin of t he fillet s in 2 or 3 places. Add a dash of oil t o t he pan and, when really hot , add t he
bream fillet s skin side down. Season and cook for 23 minut es unt il t he fish is dark golden and
t he skin is crisp. (The flesh should be opaque t wo-t hirds of t he way up t he fillet .)
5. Turn t he fillet s and cook on t he ot her side for 1 minut e, bast ing wit h t he oil in t he pan, unt il
just cooked t hrough.
6. To serve, sit t he fish fillet s on t op of t he t omat o and herb salsa and sprinkle wit h t he
reserved coriander and basil.
HOW TO CHOP HERBS
Soft herbs, such as basil, parsley, coriander and mint , can bruise very easily, so t ry t o ensure
you cut t hem only once. The easiest way t o do t his is t o roll t hem gent ly int o a ball or cigar
shape, and slice along t heir lengt h. Dont be t empt ed t o go back over t hem unlike rosemary,
say, t hey never have t o be cut t hat fine.
SEA BASS WITH FENNEL,
LEMON AND CAPERS
SERVES 4
Cooking fish in individual foil packet s, or en papillote, as t hey say in France, is a great way of
sealing in all t he flavours. The smell t hat hit s you when you open t hem up are just phenomenal,
so let everyone do t heir own at t he t able. Feel free t o change t he fish and aromat ics but make
sure you include a lit t le liquid so t he fish st eams. Serve wit h crushed new pot at oes and
courget t e ribbons.
2 sea bass, 1.25kg in t ot al (or use 4 small ones, about 300g each), scaled and cleaned
2 small fennel bulbs, fronds reserved
3 t bsp small capers, drained and rinsed
1 lemon, sliced
2 dill sprigs
25g but t er
Olive oil
100ml whit e wine
2. Season t he fish really well inside and out . Finely slice t he fennel and place, along wit h some
fronds, inside t he sea bass st omach cavit y. Sprinkle in t he capers and line t he lemon slices on
t op of t he fennel inside t he cavit y. Top wit h t he dill and dot over t he but t er in small pieces.
3. Drizzle t he fish wit h a lit t le olive oil and t hen wrap in foil. Pour t he wine int o t he parcel just
before you close up t he last corner and make sure t he parcel is well sealed, wrapping it in a
second piece of foil if necessary.
4. Place t he parcel on a roast ing t ray and bake in t he oven about 20 minut es for t he 600g
fish, or 810 minut es if using t he smaller ones unt il t he fish is just cooked t hrough wit h t he
flesh flaking away from t he bone.
5. Remove from t he oven and leave t o rest for a few minut es before serving (be careful of t he
hot st eam when you unwrap t he foil). Serve sprinkled wit h t he reserved fennel fronds.
RED MULLET WITH
SWEET CHILLI SAUCE
SERVES 4
What I love about t he Asian st yle of food is t hat it has made my cooking so much light er, and
t aken me away from using t oo much but t er and cream. Red mullet is a sweet , robust fish t hat
needs a lot of help wit h flavours, and t he chilli, fish sauce, lime and coriander really give it a
wake-up call. The peanut s are t here t o add crunch dont crush t hem t oo much or t hey will
burn. Serve wit h fragrant rice and st ir-fried broccoli.
4 red mullet fillet s, about 150g each, descaled
1 lime
FOR THE CRUST
150g skinned peanut s
Salt
Small handful of coriander, leaves chopped
2 eggs, beat en
Dash of fish sauce
FOR THE SWEET CHILLI SAUCE
2 red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
Pinch of salt
2 t bsp fish sauce
1 t bsp rice vinegar
3 t bsp olive oil
3 spring onions, t rimmed and chopped
Handful of coriander, leaves chopped
Juice of 1 lime
1. First make t he sweet chilli sauce. Place t he chillies in a mort ar wit h t he garlic, salt and sugar.
Pound unt il smoot h. Add t he fish sauce, rice vinegar and olive oil, and mix wit h a spoon. St ir in
t he spring onions, coriander leaves and lime juice. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning, adding
more sugar if necessary. Pour int o a serving bowl.
2. To make a crust for t he fish, place t he peanut s, chilli flakes and a good pinch of salt in a
mort ar. Pound unt il t hey look finely chopped but not powdered, t hen mix in t he coriander
leaves. Scat t er ont o a plat e or int o a shallow bowl, and place t he beat en eggs on a separat e
plat e or in a shallow bowl. Season t he eggs wit h a dash of fish sauce and a pinch of salt .
3. Dip t he fish skin side down int o t he egg. Shake off any excess egg wash, t hen dip int o t he
peanut mix, coat ing t he skin wit h a layer of peanut s. Repeat unt il all t he fillet s are coat ed on
one side.
4. Add a lit t le oil t o a hot frying pan and fry t he seasoned fillet s over a medium heat , crust side
down, for 23 minut es unt il t he crust is golden and t he fish half cooked. Turn and cook for
furt her 12 minut es, bast ing as you cook. Remove from t he heat and finish wit h a fresh
squeeze of lime juice over each fillet .
5. Spoon t he chilli sauce over t he fish t o serve.
FISH PIE
SERVES 46
I can never underst and why most fish pie recipes require you t o pre-cook t he fish in milk, t hen
subject it t o 30 minut es in t he oven. No wonder t he fish is oft en chewy or t urned int o mush. A
nicer and much quicker way is t o bake it from raw. Invest in a bot t le of Noilly Prat t hat ,
rat her t han t he t ype of st ock, is what gives t he sauce it s flavour.
2 large shallot s or 1 onion, peeled and chopped
2 t bsp olive oil
40g but t er
1 large t hyme sprig, leaves only
4 t bsp Noilly Prat or dry vermout h
2 t sp Pernod (opt ional)
4 t bsp plain flour
250ml fish, chicken or veget able st ock (a st ock cube is fine)
200 ml milk
4 t bsp double cream
3 t bsp chopped fresh parsley
180g skinless salmon fillet s
250g skinless cod or haddock fillet s
200g queen scallops
150g king prawns
1 t bsp fresh lemon juice
FOR THE MASHED POTATO TOPPING
750g Desire pot at oes, peeled
75g but t er, cubed
50ml hot milk
2 large egg yolks
75g medium Cheddar cheese, grat ed
1. Preheat t he oven t o 200C/Gas 6. Grease a shallow (about 2 lit re capacit y) pie dish.
2. St art by making t he mashed pot at o for t he t opping. Chop t he pot at oes int o chunks and
cook in boiling salt ed wat er unt il t ender. Drain well and push t hrough a pot at o ricer, or mash
unt il smoot h. Add t he but t er and hot milk and mix unt il well incorporat ed. Allow t o cool slight ly,
t hen st ir in t he egg yolks. Season well and put t o one side.
3. Saut t he shallot s or onion in t he oil and but t er wit h t he t hyme leaves for about 5 minut es
unt il soft ened. Add t he Noilly Prat and Pernod (if using), t hen cook for 45 minut es unt il
reduced right down.
4. St ir in t he flour and cook for a minut e or so. Heat t he st ock in a small pan or a jug in t he
microwave. Gradually st ir it int o t he shallot mixt ure wit h a wooden spoon unt il smoot h, and boil
for about 5 minut es unt il reduced by a t hird. Mix in t he milk, lower t he heat and simmer for a
few minut es. Season well, t hen add t he cream and parsley.
5. Meanwhile, cut t he salmon and cod int o bit e-sized chunks and scat t er in t he pie dish wit h
t he scallops and prawns. Sprinkle wit h t he lemon juice and seasoning. Put t he dish on a baking
sheet .
6. Pour over t he sauce and mix well wit h a fork. Spread t he mashed pot at o on t op and fluff up
wit h a fork. Scat t er wit h t he grat ed cheese and put t he pie immediat ely in t he oven. Bake for
10 minut es, t hen t urn t he oven down t o 180C/Gas 4, and bake for anot her 20 minut es, t urning
if it browns unevenly. Allow t o st and for 10 minut es before serving.
MUSSELS WITH CELERY
AND CHILLI
SERVES 2
If you are worried about sust ainabilit y, t he one seafood you can eat wit h a t ot ally clear
conscience is mussels. This recipe is a reworking of a classic moules marinires. Just be sure t o
eat it wit h some good bread t o soak up all t hose fant ast ic juices.
1kg fresh mussels
1 banana shallot , peeled and t hinly sliced
1 celery st ick, t rimmed and finely diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and t hinly sliced
1 fresh red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
4 t hyme sprigs, leaves only
1 bay leaf
12 t bsp vermout h
150ml dry whit e wine
2 t bsp crme frache
Small bunch of flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped
Crust y bread, t o serve
1. To t est t hat t he mussels are OK t o eat , place t hem in a sink or large bowl of cold wat er.
Throw away any t hat do not close when t apped against a hard surface. Drain t he mussels and
remove t he beards.
2. Heat a large, heavy-based saut pan or shallow saucepan over a high heat . Add a good glug
of oil and fry t he spring onions, shallot , celery, garlic, chilli, t hyme and bay leaf t oget her. Cook for
2 minut es, shaking t he pan, unt il t he shallot and celery st art t o become t ender.
3. Add t he mussels t o t he pan and shake over a very high heat for about 30 seconds. Cover
t ight ly wit h a lid and leave t o st eam for 12 minut es, shaking t he pan now and again. When
t he mussels begin t o open add t he vermout h and wine and cont inue t o cook, uncovered, for a
furt her 12 minut es t o reduce t he liquid. Cover and cook for a final 3060 seconds unt il t he
mussels have complet ely opened. Discard any t hat remain shut at t he end of cooking.
4. Add t he crme frache and parsley t o t he pan, t hen t ast e and adjust t he seasoning as
necessary. Cover t he pan and shake t o combine t he flavours. Remove t he lid, st ir, and serve
immediat ely wit h plent y of crust y bread.
FOR LOTS OF PEOPLE,
A MEAL ISNT A MEAL
WITHOUT A PIECE OF
MEAT AS ITS CENTREPIECE.
My generat ion was brought up on meat and t wo veg, and it s a t radit ion t hat lives on in
houses up and down t he count ry. I st ill remember t he Sunday roast s I sat down t o as a
child, but t he rest of t he week would be punct uat ed by meat of some sort t oo, whet her it
was a piece of gammon, a cot t age pie, or t he occasional st eak as a t reat .
What has changed is our underst anding of what const it ut es good meat . In t he old
days, in t he absence of chemical fert ilisers and growt h-promot ing hormones, all meat was
by definit ion slow-reared and organic. But t hings went a bit wobbly in t he second half of
t he last cent ury, when speed and efficiency t ook priorit y over compassion and t ast e. In a
world wit h a fast -expanding populat ion and ever more mout hs t o feed, I can see how t hat
happened, but Im pleased t hat many farmers have st art ed once again t o value slow-
growing t radit ional breeds over t heir more int ensively reared cousins. The rewards in t erms
of animal welfare and t ast e are amazing. Theres a price implicat ion in t hat , of course
t here is: free-range and organic animals will always cost a premium, but it s fant ast ic t hat
we once again have t he choice.
I dont want t o get on my high horse and t ell you t o buy only t his or t hat t ype of meat
because we all have budget s we have t o live by. What I will say is t hat personally Id rat her
eat meat less oft en, but buy bet t er-qualit y meat when I do, t han eat cheap meat every
day. Everyt hing in an animals life, from t he moment it is born t o t he way it is slaught ered,
will have an effect not just on it s well-being but on it s flavour. If a producer is having t o cut
corners t o keep t he price down, t he end result is bound t o suffer, and as a chef I know my
cooking can only ever be as good as t he raw ingredient s I st art wit h.
Does t hat mean I always buy organic? Not at all. Organic is a useful label t hat
suggest s more careful husbandry but it can only ever be a guide. You can get good
organic farmers and you can get bad organic farmers. What is far more import ant is t o find
a supplier you can t rust , someone who knows all his animals and want s t o do his best by
t hem, who really cares what you t hink of his produce. That way you are sure t o end up
wit h bet t er-qualit y meat . I remember visit ing my chicken supplier in Essex and asking if he
had t hought of upgrading from free-range t o organic. Why would I want t o do t hat ? he
asked. I already t reat my birds t he best I possibly can, and I dont need a cert ificat e t o
prove it . You can t ast e it in every mout hful. Equally, he want ed t o know t hat if one of his
birds did get sick, hed be able t o give her ant ibiot ics t o make her bet t er. That s what you
want . The very definit ion of compassionat e farming.
BUYING
CHICKEN
is far and away t he most popular meat in t his count ry, t he st aple of count less fast -food
t akeaways, sandwich fillings and Sat urday night curry houses. As a result , it is one of t he
most open t o abuse. At it s best it can be t he Rolls-Royce of meat s rich, dense and
versat ile but equally it can be produced as cheap prot ein fodder devoid of all flavour.
That s why of all meat s, I t hink t he difference here bet ween free-range and int ensively
reared is t he most obvious in bot h appearance and flavour. A bat t ery bird killed at six t o
seven weeks, wit h it s pumped-up breast s and legs weedy from all t hat sit t ing around, is
never going t o have t he personalit y of one t hat s lived a lit t le. Nat urally reared birds arent
killed unt il t hey are about 12 weeks old. That means an ext ra six weeks scrat ching in t he
dirt , pecking at seeds and grains, and working t hose leg muscles t o build up a rich dept h of
flavour. We use poulet s de Bresse in t he rest aurant s t heyre import ed from France
because we need t hem in such quant it ies, but t here are plent y of good suppliers in Brit ain
now. Do check out farmers market s and farm shops.
If you are st ruggling t o find a bird wit h real dept h of flavour, look out for guinea fowl
inst ead, which has a slight ly gamier t ast e but can be cooked in exact ly t he same way. A
lot of people say it t ast es t he way t hey remember chicken used t o t ast e in t he old days.
PORK
has also had a bad t ime of it recent ly, wit h many pigs kept in at rocious condit ions on t he
Cont inent hemmed int o concret e-floored pens t oo small for t hem t o t urn around in.
Brit ish st andards are much higher and we owe it t o our farmers t o support t hem. As ever,
happy animals make for happier eat ing, and slow-growing rare breeds t hat have been
allowed t o do what pigs do best , root ing around in t he mud, are what we should be buying.
What ever recipe you are making, be it a spiced slow-roast belly, a rack of chops or smoked
back bacon, youll always not ice t he difference. Im a part icular fan of Berkshires (first bred
for Queen Vict oria), Gloucest er Old Spot s and Tamwort hs.
LAMB
is a less cont roversial meat because sheep are nat urally less int ensively reared as t hey
are happy grazing on scraggy hillsides t hat cant be put t o any ot her agricult ural use.
Lamb from t he harshest , most exposed count ryside, such as t he Black Mount ains in Wales
or t he Yorkshire Dales, is among t he best because t he animals have t o lay on ext ra layers
of fat t o prot ect t hemselves from t he weat her, and t his t ranslat es as ext ra moist ness and
flavour when t hey are cooked. Im also a fan of salt marsh lamb from Romney in Kent . The
sheep feed on t he salt y grasses and samphire t hat grow on t he coast al plains and t ake
on a sweet ly delicat e flavour.
Spring lamb (from animals born before Christ mas but slaught ered in March or April) is
t he most prized, but t he flavours bet t er lat er in t he summer, once it s had t ime t o mat ure
and be fed not just on it s mot hers milk but on t hat mineral-rich grass as well. A lamb t hat s
lived t hrough t o a second summer is called a hogget , and by it s t hird summer it s known as
mut t on. These older animals need slower cooking as t hey will be t ougher, but t hey can be
more rewarding in t erms of flavour.
We use a lot of t he present at ion cut s in t he rest aurant s, such as loin, saddle and best
end (or rack), which cook very quickly. At home, I love t hings like leg, shoulder and shanks,
from t he lower rear legs, which all need longer in t he oven. Breast is anot her lovely cut , but
is quit e fat t y, so benefit s from slow roast ing.
BEEF
is t he meat t hat t hrows up t he biggest divide in opinion, mainly because t he same cut can
t ast e so different depending on how it has been produced. Again, I favour slow-growing
rare breeds, such as Aberdeen Angus, Longhorn, Dext er, or Whit e Park, which have a good
marbling of fat t hroughout t heir meat . People are scared of fat t hese days, but it is so
import ant t o flavour and t ext ure. Not only does it prot ect t he meat from t he heat of t he
oven or t he pan and st op it burning, but it melt s as t he muscle fibre cooks, adding flavour
at t he same t ime as keeping t he meat moist . Youll find less marbling in young animals,
and in cut s from muscles t hat arent used as much, such as fillet st eak. That s why t hese
cut s need more careful cooking, as t hey can go dry and t ough if overdone.
Hanging beef for anyt hing up t o 35 days is import ant as it gives t ime for enzymes t o
st art t o break down t he muscle fibre, making it more t ender and allowing t he flavour t o
develop. Your but cher should be able t o t ell you how long his meat has been hung, but
colour can also be a clue. Well-hung beef should be a dark ruby colour, rat her t han a bright ,
bloody red. You should know t hat supermarket s are less likely t o age t heir meat , not only
because t he delay in get t ing it t o t he shop floor cost s t hem money, but also because
meat loses moist ure as it hangs, so reducing it s final selling weight . As ever, farm shops,
farmers market s and t radit ional but chers are t he best places t o buy.
If you are buying for a t radit ional Sunday roast , Id always recommend a sirloin or rib
joint , from t he middle of t he cows back. Youll oft en see t opside and silverside, from t he
t op of t he t high, dressed up as roast ing joint s, somet imes wit h an ext ra layer of fat
st it ched on t op like a poor mans hairpiece. These cut s are never as flavoursome and can
be very t ough. They are bet t er suit ed t o slower pot -roast ing, wit h a bit of liquid in t he pan
t o keep t hem moist .
STORING
Once you get your meat home, you need t o keep it correct ly. Meat needs t o breat he, so
remove any plast ic wrapping st raight away. This is part icularly import ant wit h vacuum-
packed cut s, which will ot herwise marinat e in t heir own blood and t ake on a nast y met allic
t ast e. Put t he meat on a plat e loosely covered wit h paper or cling film pierced wit h a few
holes and place it at t he bot t om of t he fridge so it cant drip ont o any ot her foods.
If you choose t o freeze meat , wrap it up t ight ly in cling film t o st op wat er cryst als
forming on t he surface and chill it as quickly as possible. Always defrost meat slowly,
ideally in t he fridge or at room t emperat ure. Never defrost raw meat in t he microwave or all
t he juices will seep out and t he meat will t oughen.
PREPARING
The meat t hat s likely t o need t he most fiddly preparat ion prior t o cooking is chicken. I
always buy my chickens whole and t hen joint t hem myself. It works out so much cheaper
and youll be amazed how far t hey go. The met hod described below will produce six joint s
of dark brown meat (wings, t highs and drumst icks) and t wo beaut iful plump breast s. Ive
also given inst ruct ions for deboning, but t his is alt oget her a more complicat ed affair, and,
unless youre brimming wit h confidence, is probably best done by your but cher.
HOW TO JOINT A CHICKEN
1. Open up t he chicken legs and pierce t he skin where t he t high joins t he body. Holding
t he bird st eady, pull t he leg out and down unt il t he t highbone pops out of it s socket . Cut
t hrough t he skin and sinew wit h a sharp knife unt il you can pull t he t high and drumst ick off
in one piece. Turn t he bird around and repeat wit h t he ot her side.
2. Wit h your t humb, feel where t he knuckle is bet ween t he t high and t he drumst ick and
slice t hrough, let t ing t he weight of t he knife do t he work. The t high is great for roast ing or
barbecuing, but t he drumst ick is t he most difficult part t o cook evenly. A t rick is t o slice
t hrough t o t he bone about halfway down t he drumst ick, where t he meat gives way t o skin
and sinew. Scrape away t he t endons unt il you expose a lengt h of bare bone. Now cut off
t he end of t he knuckle by placing your left hand on t op of t he knife blade and banging
down hard t o cut t hrough t he bone. Keep t he knuckle for making st ock.
3. Pull out t he wings and feel wit h your t humb for where t he bone joins t he body. Slice
t hrough and t ake off t he wing. You can also slice off t he wing t ips for st ock if you like.
4. Place t he chicken on a board wit h it s neck end t owards you. Wit h a nice dry knife t o
st op it slipping, slice down one side of t he breast bone, st art ing at t he leg end and keeping
t he blade as close t o t he bone as possible. When you reach t he wishbone, pull t he knife
out slight ly, t ilt it slight ly upwards and, using your ot her hand t o guide t he blade, push it
t hrough t he wishbone. You should now be able t o work t he breast free of t he
breast bones. Turn t he carcass round, and repeat wit h t he ot her breast , again cut t ing
t hrough t he wishbone and keeping t he knife as close t o t he carcass as possible so as not
t o leave any meat behind. Keep t he carcass for making st ock.
HOW TO DEBONE A CHICKEN
Place t he chicken on it s front , and cut down t hrough t he skin t o expose t he whole lengt h
of it s backbone. Using your knife t o loosen t he meat from t he bones, pull t he chicken flesh
away, as t hough ripping open a shirt , t o expose it s ribcage. Cut t hrough t he t highbone at
it s joint and, using your fingers, pull t he bone out of t he t highs, pulling t he t high meat
inside out as you do so. Repeat on t he ot her side. Now cont inue t o work around t he
ribcage, releasing t he wing bones as you do so, unt il you have released t he breast bone
from t he breast . Cut t he t wo t endons at eit her end of t he ribcage and you should now be
able t o remove t he carcass, leaving a single piece of meat , all of uniform t hickness.
COOKING
Meat lends it self t o every t ype of cooking, from roast ing, grilling or frying t o poaching and
braising. As a rule, t he leaner and more delicat e t he cut of meat , t he quicker you want t o
cook it , or else it will t oughen up and dry out . Fat t ier cut s need slower cooking so t hat t he
fat can melt int o t he meat and imbue it wit h flavour.
Unless you are poaching your meat (a wonderful, healt hy way of cooking chicken
breast s, for example), t he key is t o get a good searing of colour on t he out side. This is
what will give your finished dish t hat lovely, Marmit ey richness and is essent ial for
everyt hing from a pork loin t o a sirloin st eak or a lamb casserole. Chefs used t o t alk about
t his as searing in t he juices, but it s not about keeping t he meat moist it s about kick-
st art ing t hat flavour-building process.
There are t wo ways t o do t his: eit her t o st art your meat in a hot oven, and t hen t urn it
down aft er an init ial sizzle (t his is t he way many people cook joint s of meat ), or t o cook it
over a high heat on t he hob, and t hen t ransfer t o t he oven as necessary. If doing t he
lat t er, t he key t hing is t o get your pan good and hot so t hat it drives off t he moist ure in t he
meat inst ant ly and st art s browning it . If t he pan is not hot enough, t he meat will st art t o
boil in it s juices and t hen it will never brown. And wit hout colour, youll have no flavour.
So st art wit h dry meat (pat t ed dry wit h kit chen paper if necessary) and a very hot pan. Put
in a swirl of oil groundnut , rapeseed or light olive oil are all good, but not but t er as t hat
will burn (unless t he meat is very t hin and will cook in seconds) and once it is almost
smoking, add t he meat . It should sizzle as soon as it hit s t he pan. If it doesnt , t ake it out
and wait a bit . Dont crowd t he pan as t his will cause t he t emperat ure t o drop. It s bet t er t o
brown meat in bat ches t han t o t ry t o rush it . Also, avoid t he t empt at ion t o fiddle wit h it .
People oft en feel t hey are being bet t er cooks if t hey are const ant ly prodding or st irring but
somet imes you need t he confidence t o leave t hings alone. If you keep t he meat moving
around t he pan, it wont caramelise. Dont worry about it st icking; once it is browned, t he
meat will release it self. That s t he t ime t o t urn it over t o ensure all t he sides are seared.
Your meat is now ready for t he next st age, be it roast ing in t he oven, bubbling away in
a casserole or, in t he case of a st eak or pork chop, for eat ing.
HOW TO FRY A SIRLOIN STEAK
1. Bring your st eak t o room t emperat ure 20 minut es before cooking; ot herwise, t he out side
will be cooked before t he middle has had a chance t o warm t hrough. Meat at room
t emperat ure will also absorb t he seasoning bet t er.
2. Get t he pan really hot , hot t er t han youd normally dare. If it s not hot , it wont colour t he
meat and wit hout any colour, t herell be no flavour. Season your st eak well wit h lot s of salt
and pepper.
3. Pour some groundnut or ot her neut ral-flavoured oil int o t he pan. Rapeseed is also good
as it has a high burning point , which means you can get more colour on t o t he st eak. Wait
unt il t he oil is almost smoking, t hen lay in t he st eak, wit h t he fat t o t he back of t he pan.
4. Leave it t o cook for 23 minut es on one side, t hen t urn it over. Dont keep fiddling or
t he meat wont t ake on a caramelised crust . About 1 minut es before it is ready, add a
knob of but t er and spoon it over t he st eak as it cooks, giving it a rich, nut t y brown finish.
Finally, use your t ongs t o hold t he st eak up and cook t he fat .
5. The best way t o t ell if a st eak is cooked is by feel. A rare st eak will have t he same
t ext ure as t he fleshy base of your t humb when t he hand is open. Now move your t humb
so it t ouches your middle finger, and feel t he fleshy base again. It will feel slight ly firmer and
is equivalent t o a medium st eak. If you move your t humb over t o t ouch your lit t le finger,
t he fleshy base feels very firm and is equivalent t o well done.
6. Now leave t he st eak t o rest in a warm place for up t o 5 minut es. This will allow t he
muscle fibres t o relax and redist ribut e t he moist ure t hroughout t he meat . Slice t he st eak
at an angle not t oo t hinly or it will cool down t oo quickly and serve.
MEAT
St eak sandwiches
Pork st uffed wit h Manchego and membrillo
Chicken and chicory in Marsala sauce
Beef brisket wit h new pot at o piccalilli salad
PORK CHOPS
WITH PEPPERS
SERVES 2
Youll be amazed at how t wo such simple t hings can t ast e so good t oget her. The sweet and
sour peppers really cut t hrough t he richness of t he beaut ifully saut ed chops and make for a
really good, quick supper dish. As always when frying chops, leave t hem t o rest as long as you
cooked t hem so t hat t hey can t enderise and reabsorb t heir juices.
2 pork chops, about 200g each
2 garlic cloves, skin on, crushed
Small bunch of t hyme
But t er
FOR THE SWEET AND SOUR PEPPERS
1 red onion, peeled and sliced
2 red peppers, deseeded and t hinly sliced
3 t bsp red wine vinegar
Small bunch of basil, leaves shredded
1. First prepare t he peppers. Heat a lit t le olive oil in a large frying pan, t hen add t he onion and
peppers. Season wit h salt and pepper, add t he sugar and saut over a high heat for 45
minut es unt il soft and coloured. (Make sure you can hear t he veget ables hissing in t he pan. If
not , t he pan isnt hot enough and youre in danger of boiling t he veget ables inst ead of frying
t hem.)
2. Add t he vinegar and let it bubble for a minut e or t wo unt il it has reduced and t he peppers are
soft . Turn down t he heat , add t he t ablespoon of ext ra virgin olive oil and cook for a furt her 23
minut es. St ir in t he shredded basil and cont inue t o cook for 30 seconds, t hen t urn off t he heat .
Decant int o a bowl and set aside t o infuse. Wipe t he pan clean, ready t o cook t he pork.
3. Using a sharp knife, make cut s int o t he fat of t he chops, about 5mm deep and at 34cm
int ervals, making sure you dont cut int o t he meat . (This will st op t he meat from curling up
during cooking and will make it cook more evenly.) Season t he chops really well on bot h sides,
pushing t he seasoning int o t he meat .
4. Place t he cleaned-out frying pan over a high heat unt il hot and add a dash of oil. Add t he
chops, garlic and t hyme and fry for 23 minut es unt il coloured. Turn and fry for a furt her 23
minut es on t he ot her side, pushing t he t hyme under t he chops and breaking up t he garlic a
lit t le.
5. Towards t he end of cooking t ime, add 3 knobs of but t er and bast e t he chops wit h it as t hey
are cooking, t o speed up t he cooking process and keep t he chops moist . (Push t he fat t y edge
of t he chops t owards t he back of t he pan t o help render t he fat .) Squeeze t he garlic out of it s
skin and place wit h t he herbs on t op of t he chops.
6. Transfer t he chops t o a plat e, and rest for 510 minut es, spooning over t he bast ing but t er
now and again.
7. Serve t he chops on t op of t he peppers wit h t he rest ing juices and a lit t le juice from t he
peppers.
HOW TO SLICE PEPPERS
Chop off t he green st alk and st and t he flat end on your chopping board. Now slice down from
t he t op, almost like peeling an orange, working your way around t he pepper, t o leave a t ree of
seeds. Now place t he pepper slices down on t he workt op, and holding t hem down wit h your
t hree middle fingers, cut t hem int o slices. Dont t ry t o rush: speed will come wit h pract ice.
SICHUAN CHICKEN
THIGHS
SERVES 4
Chicken t high is t he best part of t he bird for me because it s rich meat is t ast ier and st ands up
t o robust flavours. This dish shows just how good it can be, cooked in a wonderfully st icky
marinade. Shaoxing is a Chinese rice wine. You can find it in most supermarket s nowadays, but
you could use medium-dry sherry inst ead. Serve wit h rice or noodles.
8 skinless, boneless chicken t highs
Sunflower or groundnut oil, for frying
4cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and grat ed
1 t sp Sichuan peppercorns, t oast ed and roughly ground
Zest of orange
Pinch of cast er sugar
FOR THE MARINADE
4 t bsp light soy sauce
2 t bsp Shaoxing rice wine
TO SERVE
3 spring onions, t rimmed and roughly chopped
Soy sauce
Sesame oil
1. Cut each chicken t high int o t hree pieces, t hen mix t oget her all t he marinade ingredient s wit h
2 t ablespoons of wat er. Use t o coat t he chicken. Season and mix well, t hen leave t o marinat e
for up t o 2 hours.
2. Heat a heavy-based frying pan or a wok over a high heat , add a lit t le oil and fry t he garlic,
ginger and chilli for 3 minut es unt il t ender and aromat ic. Add t he Sichuan peppercorns and
orange zest and st ir over t he heat for 30 seconds.
3. Add t he chicken and t he marinade. Sprinkle in t he sugar and st ir well. Cover t he pan and
cook t he chicken over a medium heat for 2025 minut es unt il coloured on all sides and t he
marinade has reduced t o a st icky sauce.
4. To serve, add t he spring onions and a drizzle each of soy sauce and sesame oil.
HOW TO PEEL ROOT GINGER
The easiest way t o peel ginger, get t ing neat ly around all t hose knobbly bit s, is t o use a
t easpoon rat her t han a knife.
PAN-FRIED DUCK BREASTS
WITH BLACKCURRANT
SAUCE
SERVES 2
Duck wit h orange or cherries is such a classic, but t here is no reason why you cant pair it wit h
ot her fruit or veget ables, such as rhubarb, gooseberries, or, as here, wit h blackcurrant s
anyt hing wit h a lit t le acidit y t o cut t hrough t he meat s richness. Baby new pot at oes and
chopped greens would make ideal accompaniment s.
2 duck breast s, skin on
FOR THE SAUCE
150ml dry red wine
2 garlic cloves, skin on and light ly crushed
A few t hyme sprigs
150ml duck or chicken st ock
3 t bsp blackcurrant jam or conserve
25g but t er, cut int o cubes
2. Score t he skin of t he duck breast s in a crisscross pat t ern, t hen rub wit h salt and pepper.
Place t hem skin side down in a dry hob-proof roast ing t ray and cook over a very low heat t o
render most of t he fat . This may t ake 1015 minut es.
3. Meanwhile, make t he sauce. Place t he red wine in a pan wit h t he garlic and t hyme and boil
for 78 minut es unt il reduced by half. Pour in t he st ock and reduce again by half. St ir t he
blackcurrant jam int o t he sauce and add a few knobs of but t er t o give it a shine. Tast e and
adjust t he seasoning, t hen st rain t hrough a fine sieve and discard t he solids.
4. Turn up t he heat under t he duck breast s and fry for about 5 minut es unt il t he skin is crisp.
Turn t hem over and fry on t he ot her side for 12 minut es unt il cooked t hrough. Place t he t ray
in t he hot oven for 810 minut es unt il t he duck is slight ly springy when pressed.
5. Rest t he duck breast s on a warm plat e for 5 minut es, t hen cut int o slices on t he diagonal.
Place on warmed serving plat es. Spoon over t he blackcurrant sauce and serve.
HOW TO MINIMISE FATTINESS IN DUCK MEAT
Normally, meat should be added t o a hot pan and sizzle t he moment it goes in. Duck breast ,
however, should be added t o a cold pan and slowly brought up t o t emperat ure. This is because
t he breast skin is very fat t y and needs t ime for t he fat t o run out int o t he pan, or render. If you
added t he breast t o a hot pan, it would seal t he fat in.
SMOKY PORK SLIDERS
WITH BARBECUE SAUCE
SERVES 24
These mini burgers are absolut ely st unning, all smoky from t he bacon and paprika and wit h t he
sweet and sour hit from t he home-made barbecue sauce. People oft en add t oo much t o t heir
burgers, t hinking it will enrich t he flavour, but let me t ell you, when it comes t o burgers, less is
more. Trust me.
4 rashers of rindless smoked back bacon, finely chopped
1 banana shallot , peeled and finely chopped
500g minced pork
FOR THE BARBECUE SAUCE
1 small onion, peeled and finely diced
23 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 t bsp brown sugar
1 t bsp cider vinegar
2 t sp Worcest ershire sauce
6 t bsp t omat o ket chup
TO SERVE
Mini burger buns/bread rolls
Baby gem let t uce leaves, shredded
Slices of smoked Cheddar cheese, e.g. applewood smoked
Slices of t omat o
1. First make t he barbecue sauce. Heat t he oil in a frying pan, add t he onion and garlic wit h
some seasoning and t he sugar, and fry for 5 minut es unt il soft ened. Add t he paprika and st ir t o
combine. Cook for 1015 minut es unt il t he onion is caramelising, t hen add t he vinegar and let it
cook out for a couple of minut es. Add t he Worcest ershire sauce and t omat o ket chup, mix well
and cont inue t o cook for about 8 minut es unt il t he sauce has reduced t o a dropping
consist ency. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning as necessary. Remove from t he heat and set
aside.
2. While t he barbecue sauce is reducing, st art preparing t he burger mince. Fry t he bacon in an
oiled pan for about 5 minut es unt il almost cooked t hrough. Add t he shallot and cont inue t o
cook for 5 minut es unt il t he shallot is t ender and t he bacon crisp. Sprinkle in t he smoked
paprika and mix well. Cont inue t o cook for 12 minut es, t hen remove from t he heat , draining off
any excess fat on kit chen paper.
3. Season t he minced pork and mix well wit h t he cooked shallot s and bacon. Shape int o balls
t he size of golf balls and flat t en int o pat t ies.
4. Heat a large, heavy-based frying pan wit h a lit t le oil. Season t he pat t ies and cook t hem for
12 minut es on each side, bast ing wit h t he juices unt il cooked t hrough and coloured. Turn off
t he heat and leave t hem t o rest in t he pan. Top each pat t y wit h a slice of cheese, allowing it t o
melt slight ly.
5. Assemble your sliders in mini buns, layered wit h t he barbecue sauce, let t uce and slices of
t omat o. Any remaining barbecue sauce will keep in t he fridge very well. Serve immediat ely.
CHICKEN WITH GARLIC
AND CHESTNUT STUFFING
SERVES 6
This is an all-in-one dish, where t he deboned chicken encases a st uffing of rice and chest nut s.
It will slice very easily and t he sweet ness of t he chest nut s is set off wit h a simple parsley
vinaigret t e. Deboning a chicken is a fiddly job, so unless you are very confident , it is best t o ask
your but cher t o do it for you. If youre feeling brave, see here.
1 large deboned free-range chicken, wings removed
FOR THE STUFFING
onion, peeled and diced
1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped
1 celery st ick, t rimmed and diced
50g pine nut s
75g peeled cooked chest nut s, broken int o pieces
100g cooked mixed rice, e.g. basmat i and wild rice
2 t bsp chopped parsley
FOR THE PARSLEY DRESSING
Small bunch of flat leaf parsley
1 garlic clove, peeled
t bsp wholegrain must ard
5 t bsp olive oil
2. First prepare t he st uffing. Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat and add a glug of oil.
Saut t he onion for 4 minut es, t hen add t he garlic and cont inue t o cook for anot her 12
minut es unt il soft ened. Add t he celery, t hen st ir in t he pine nut s and chest nut s, t ast e and
season well. Add t he cooked rice and parsley, st ir again, t hen t ast e and adjust t he seasoning
as necessary.
3. Place t he deboned chicken skin side down on a work surface. Season inside. Place t he
st uffing in t he cent re of t he chicken and fold t he sides around it . Tie t he chicken at regular
int ervals wit h st ring, t hen t urn t he parcel over so t hat t he breast faces upwards.
4. Drizzle olive oil over t he out side of t he chicken and season wit h salt and pepper. Place in a
roast ing t ray and roast for 1 hour, bast ing now and again, t hen t urn t he oven up t o 200C/Gas
6 and roast for a furt her 1520 minut es unt il t he chicken is cooked t hrough and t he skin
golden and crisp. Remove and rest for 15 minut es before serving.
5. Meanwhile, make t he parsley dressing. Finely chop t he parsley and garlic. Mix wit h t he
must ard and vinegar, t hen add t he olive oil bit by bit , whisking cont inuously t o t hicken.
6. Serve t he st uffed chicken in slices wit h t he dressing spooned on t op.
STEAK SANDWICHES
SERVES 46
These are effect ively very posh burgers. You t ake a rare beef fillet , add home-made relish and
must ard mayonnaise, and sandwich it bet ween t wo pieces of t oast ed ciabat t a. Heaven! It s
very import ant t o st art t he beef on t he hob because meat t hat goes st raight in t he oven looks
boiled rat her t han beaut ifully caramelised.
700g fillet of beef
1 whole head of garlic, cut in half horizont ally
34 t hyme sprigs
But t er
1 baby gem let t uce, t o serve
FOR THE SPICY TOMATO RELISH
red onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 red chillies, deseeded and chopped
250g mixed red and yellow cherry t omat oes, halved
12 t sp sherry vinegar, t o t ast e
Small handful of shredded basil leaves
FOR THE MUSTARD MAYONNAISE
3 t bsp good-qualit y mayonnaise
3 t sp wholegrain must ard
FOR THE TOASTED CIABATTA
12 slices of ciabat t a, about 1.5cm t hick
23 t bsp olive oil
2. Heat a large ovenproof frying pan unt il hot and add a glug of oil. Grind a generous amount of
salt and pepper ont o a board and roll t he fillet in t he seasoning. Fry over a high heat for 12
minut es on each side unt il gent ly coloured all over, including t he ends. Add t he garlic and
t hyme sprigs, heat for a minut e, t hen sit t he beef on t op of t hem. Add a couple of knobs of
but t er, spooning it over t he st eak t o bast e.
3. Place t he beef in t he preheat ed oven and roast for 1517 minut es unt il rare or medium rare.
It should feel springy when pressed. Remove from t he oven, cover loosely wit h foil and leave t o
rest for 15 minut es, bast ing now and again wit h t he juices from t he pan.
4. Meanwhile, make t he relish. Heat t he olive oil in a large frying pan, add t he onion and chillies
and fry over a medium heat for about 5 minut es unt il soft ened. St ir in t he t omat oes, t hen
season and cook for 68 minut es unt il t he t omat oes are beginning t o collapse. Add t he
vinegar and st ew down over a medium heat for about 6 minut es unt il reduced t o a rough relish
consist ency. Remove from t he heat , st ir in t he basil and season well. Tip int o a serving bowl
and set aside.
5. Combine t he ingredient s for t he must ard mayonnaise. Season, t hen spoon int o a serving
bowl and set aside.
6. To make t he t oast , heat a griddle pan unt il smoking hot . Drizzle t he sliced ciabat t a wit h t he
olive oil, season and t hen griddle for 12 minut es unt il golden on bot h sides. Repeat unt il all t he
bread is t oast ed and t hen place on a serving plat t er.
7. To serve, t hickly slice t he rest ed fillet of beef, place on a plat t er and put on t he t able wit h
t he t oast , mayonnaise, relish and let t uce leaves t o be assembled by your guest s.
PORK STUFFED
WITH MANCHEGO
AND MEMBRILLO
SERVES 4
Membrillo is a sweet ened quince jelly, which, given t hat quince is relat ed t o t he pear and apple,
goes brilliant ly wit h pork. The Spanish normally eat it wit h cheese, so Ive paired it here wit h
Manchego, a hard sheeps milk cheese. You could equally use a hard pecorino inst ead. Serve
wit h roast pot at oes and saut ed carrot s.
1kg pork loin roast ing joint , skin scored
175g Manchego cheese, finely sliced
150g membrillo
2 sage sprigs
1 head of garlic, cut in half horizont ally
1 t hyme sprig
200ml medium-dry sherry
1. Preheat t he oven t o 220C/Gas7.
2. Lay t he joint , skin side down, on a chopping board and cut t hree-quart ers of t he way int o t he
flesh lengt hways from t op t o bot t om. Open t he meat out t o form a long rect angle and season
wit h salt and pepper.
3. Arrange t he slices of cheese and t he membrillo along t he cent re of t he meat . Scat t er t he
leaves from 1 sage sprig on t op, and roll t he meat up t o enclose t he st uffing. Tie at 3cm
int ervals along t he lengt h of t he meat wit h st ring.
4. Place t he t hyme and remaining sage in a hob-proof roast ing t ray wit h t he garlic. Lay t he pork
on t op, skin side up. Drizzle wit h olive oil and season generously wit h salt and pepper.
5. Transfer t he roast ing t ray t o t he preheat ed oven and cook for 20 minut es unt il t he skin is
crispy and golden. Turn t he oven down t o 180C/Gas 4 and cook for a furt her 50 minut es unt il
t he pork is just cooked t hrough. Remove t he pork from t he t in and set aside on a serving dish
t o rest .
6. Put t he roast ing t ray on t he hob. Pour in t he sherry and bring t o t he boil, scraping up any bit s
st uck in t he bot t om of t he t ray. Lower t he heat , squash t he garlic and remove t he herbs. Add
any rest ing juices from t he meat .
7. To serve, carve t he pork int o t hick slices, st rain t he sauce and pour it over t he meat .
EASY BOLLITO MISTO
SERVES 4
This sausage casserole is t radit ionally served in It aly on Christ mas Day wit h salsa verde, a
dressing of garlic, anchovies, must ard, vinegar, oil and lot s of chopped herbs. Ive added lent ils
t o make a more self-cont ained meal, but simplified t he dressing just a scat t ering of fresh
parsley.
6 It alian fennel sausages
220g cooking chorizo sausages, halved lengt hways
2 celery st icks, t rimmed and t hickly sliced diagonally
2 carrot s, peeled and sliced diagonally
200g Puy lent ils
1 bay leaf
2 t hyme sprigs
Chopped flat leaf parsley, t o garnish
1. Heat a large saucepan over a medium heat and add a lit t le oil. Fry t he fennel sausages for
34 minut es unt il coloured on all sides. Remove and set aside. Add t he chorizo pieces, cut side
down, and fry for 23 minut es unt il t hey st art t o release t heir coloured oil and begin t o crisp up.
Turn over and colour on t he ot her side for a minut e or t wo. Remove and set aside wit h t he
sausages.
2. Add t he garlic, celery and carrot s t o t he pan and st ir for 2 minut es unt il t he garlic is t ender.
St ir in t he lent ils, t hen ret urn t he sausages and chorizo t o t he pan wit h t he bay leaf and t hyme
springs. St ir well.
3. Add 600ml of t he st ock, t hen t ast e and season wit h salt and pepper. Bring t o t he boil, t hen
lower t he heat and simmer gent ly for 2530 minut es unt il t he sausages are cooked t hrough,
t he lent ils t ender and t he st ock well flavoured. If t he st ock levels drop t oo low while t he lent ils
are cooking, t op up wit h a lit t le of t he remaining st ock.
4. Discard t he bay leaf and t hyme sprigs and serve t he bollit o mist o in shallow bowls, garnished
wit h t he chopped parsley.
SLOW-BRAISED
STUFFED LAMB BREAST
SERVES 6
Breast of lamb is a fat t y cut t hat needs slow cooking, but it can be just as rewarding as t he
more expensive choice cut s. Here Im st uffing it wit h anchovies, garlic and olives, which all go so
well wit h lamb, and braising it in t inned t omat oes inst ead of st ock. Try t o st uff t he breast s a
day ahead as it helps t o t enderise t he meat even more. Serve wit h mashed pot at oes and
but t ered kale.
3 lamb breast s, bones and skin removed
1 t bsp dried oregano, plus a pinch for lat er
1 t bsp dried chilli flakes, plus a pinch for lat er
Zest of 2 lemons
2 90g jars anchovies, drained
1 onion, peeled and sliced
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 t bsp capers
200g pit t ed black olives, e.g. Kalamat a, drained
1 750ml bot t le dry whit e wine
1 400g t in whole peeled plum t omat oes
2. Open out t he lamb breast s and place t hem on a chopping board. Season each one on bot h
sides wit h salt and pepper. Scat t er t he oregano, chilli flakes and t hree-quart ers of t he lemon
zest evenly over t he fleshy side of t he meat . Arrange t he anchovies equally over each breast .
3. St art ing at t he smaller end of t he meat , roll each breast int o a t ight sausage shape and t ie
at int ervals wit h st ring.
4. Fry t he rolled breast s in a large hot , oiled casserole dish for about 3 minut es unt il light ly
browned all over. Remove t he lamb and set aside, t hen add t he onion and garlic t o t he pan.
Cook over a medium heat for 5 minut es unt il soft and coloured. Add t he pinches of chilli flakes
and oregano, t he remaining lemon zest , t hen t he capers and olives.
5. Add t he wine t o deglaze t he pan, scraping up any bit s from t he bot t om. Boil for 5 minut es,
t hen add t he t omat oes and gent ly bring back t o t he boil. Ret urn t he lamb breast s t o t he pan,
bast ing t hem in t he sauce.
6. Cover t he pan wit h a lid and cook in t he preheat ed oven for 22 hours unt il t he meat is
t ender. Bast e and t urn t he meat oft en.
7. Remove t he meat from t he oven and let it rest for a couple of minut es before slicing t hickly.
Skim any excess fat from t he pan, t hen spoon t he sauce over t he lamb.
HOW TO USE DRIED HERBS
Everyone assumes t hese days t hat you should always use fresh herbs. While some, such as
basil and parsley, dont dry well, ot hers, such as marjoram, bay and oregano, do. I would never
use t hem t o finish a dish, but t hey can work well in a slow braise, where t hey will nat urally
rehydrat e and flavour t he meat . Never use as much as you would fresh, t hough, as t he flavour
can be very concent rat ed.
CHICKEN AND CHICORY
IN MARSALA SAUCE
SERVES 2
Chicken breast s make for a quick and easy main course, but because chicken is such a lean
meat , it can easily dry out . Here it is coloured in a pan and t hen braised in chicken st ock, but t er
and Marsala. Marsala is a fort ified wine from Sicily, and can be subst it ut ed wit h Madeira or
medium-sweet sherry.
2 chicken breast s or supremes, skin on
2 heads of chicory, t rimmed and cut in half lengt hways
4 t hyme sprigs
1 garlic clove, peeled and light ly crushed
3 t bsp Marsala wine
But t er
1. Heat a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and add a lit t le oil. Season t he chicken on bot h
sides, and place it , skin side down, in t he hot pan. Add t he chicory, cut side down, 2 t hyme
sprigs and t he garlic and cook for 34 minut es unt il t he chicken skin is dark golden.
2. Turn t he chicken and chicory over. Pour in t he Marsala t o deglaze t he pan, scraping up t he
bit s from t he bot t om, t hen add t he chicken st ock and a couple of knobs of but t er. Cook over a
medium heat for 10 minut es, occasionally spooning over t he sauce, unt il t he chicken is just
cooked t hrough.
3. Serve t he chicken and chicory t opped wit h spoonfuls of sauce and garnished wit h t he
remaining t hyme sprigs.
BEEF BRISKET
WITH NEW POTATO
PICCALILLI SALAD
SERVES 6
Brisket is a cut of beef from t he cows lower chest and is t radit ionally used t o make salt beef
and past rami. However, Im not brining it here, but inst ead poaching it in aromat ics, saut ed off
first t o boost t heir flavour. Just like salt beef, t his is great served wit h piccalilli.
2kg beef brisket , boned, rolled and t ied
1 carrot , peeled and roughly chopped
2 celery st icks, t rimmed and roughly chopped
1 head of garlic, cut in half horizont ally
1 t sp black peppercorns
1 t sp cloves
1 t sp freshly grat ed nut meg
FOR THE NEW POTATO PICCALILLI SALAD
500g new pot at oes of a similar size
1 small cauliflower, cut int o floret s
275g green beans, t opped and t ailed
1 carrot , peeled and grat ed
1 small shallot , peeled and finely sliced
3 spring onions, t rimmed and finely chopped
Pinch of ground t urmeric
12 t sp English must ard powder, t o t ast e
1 t bsp wholegrain must ard
12 t sp honey, t o t ast e
100ml olive oil
2. Season t he brisket all over wit h salt and pepper. Heat a large flameproof casserole dish or
high-sided roast ing t ray on t he hob. Add a glug of oil and brown t he meat in t he hot pan for
about 5 minut es unt il coloured on all sides. Turn t he heat down t o medium, add t he carrot ,
celery, garlic and spices and st ir t hem t hrough t he oil at t he bot t om of t he pan.
3. Pour in enough wat er t o almost cover t he brisket . Bring t o t he boil, t hen cover t ight ly.
Transfer t he dish t o t he preheat ed oven and leave t o cook for 34 hours, t urning t he meat
halfway t hrough, unt il it is really t ender. Remove t he meat from t he cooking liquor and allow t o
rest for 20 minut es.
4. Meanwhile, make t he salad. Boil t he new pot at oes in salt ed wat er for about 15 minut es unt il
t ender and cooked t hrough. Blanch t he cauliflower and green beans by dropping t hem int o
boiling salt ed wat er for 2 minut es unt il t heir rawness has been removed but t hey are st ill
crunchy. Refresh immediat ely in cold wat er.
5. Mix t oget her t he carrot , shallot , spring onions and t urmeric and add t he pot at oes, cauliflower
and green beans. To make t he dressing, st ir t he must ard powder int o t he wholegrain must ard,
making sure t here are no lumps. Add t he honey and vinegar, mix well, t hen slowly pour in t he
oil, st irring as you do so t o t hicken. Dress t he salad and season wit h salt and pepper t o t ast e.
6. Slice t he rest ed brisket and serve wit h t he salad.
ROAST GUINEA FOWL
WITH APPLE
SERVES 4
Guinea fowl is a great alt ernat ive t o chicken, wit h a slight ly deeper flavour, but like a lot of
game birds it needs careful cooking t o avoid t he breast drying out . In t he rest aurant we remove
t he legs and wings, and poach t he crown in flavoured st ock before quickly roast ing it at a high
t emperat ure. Ive simplified t he recipe for t he home, where you may prefer t o serve t he whole
bird.
1 guinea fowl, about 1kg
68 rashers of smoked st reaky bacon
75g but t er
4 sweet apples, e.g. Coxs, cored and sliced
200ml double cream
100ml Calvados or English apple brandy
2. Season t he guinea fowl wit h salt and pepper, cover t he breast wit h t he bacon and place in a
roast ing t ray.
3. Melt t he but t er in a cast -iron frying pan and carefully lay t he apple slices in t he but t er. They
need t o be kept in a single layer, so cook in bat ches if necessary. Saut t he apples for 34
minut es unt il t hey are nicely caramelised, t hen arrange t hem around t he guinea fowl. Brush t he
breast of t he bird wit h t he remaining melt ed but t er and season again. Pour over half t he cream,
t hen place in t he preheat ed oven and cook for 20 minut es.
4. Remove t he bacon and set aside. Lower t he t emperat ure t o 180C/Gas 5, t hen bast e t he
bird and cook for a furt her 2025 minut es.
5. Remove t he guinea fowl from t he oven and t ransfer t o a warm plat e wit h t he bacon. Leave
t o rest for 15 minut es.
6. Add t he brandy and t he remaining cream t o t he t ray and bring t o t he boil. Tast e and adjust
t he seasoning. Pour t he sauce over t he guinea fowl and serve immediat ely, wit h t he reserved
bacon on t he side.
SPICES NEVER PLAYED A HUGE PART
IN THE FOOD I GREW UP ON. I DONT
THINK THEY DID FOR ANYONE OF
MY GENERATION.
There was t he occasional curry or chilli con carne, of course, but t heyd have been made
wit h generic mixes t hat did lit t le t o excit e my palat e beyond t he init ial hit of heat . Once I
st art ed cooking professionally, t hough, I slowly came t o see how excit ing t hey could be,
how t hey could t ake dishes in a t ot ally new direct ion. Were all familiar wit h cloves in a
bread sauce, or grat ed nut meg on a rice pudding, but t he t ime I first t ried st ar anise in a
navarin of lamb it blew my mind. I couldnt believe what a difference it made t o a dish I
t hought I knew. From t hen on I was hooked and loved experiment ing wit h unusual
combinat ions, but always wit hin t he cont ext of classic French and Brit ish cooking.
It wasnt unt il I went t o India a couple of years ago t hat I was exposed t o spices in all
t heir glorious colours and variet ies. I remember visit ing a market in Cochin and seeing all
t he ginger, t urmeric, cinnamon, cardamom and saffron piled up and knowing I had t o learn
t he art of spicing. We st ill t end t o view it in a one-dimensional way in t his count ry, as a way
of delivering an addict ive heat , but it s so much about fragrance, flavour and subt let y t oo. If
you learn t o use spices confident ly t hey can add a new dimension t o your cooking. The
t rick is t o find t he balance of flavours t hat really suit you.
Let s st art closer t o home, t hough, wit h t he t wo most common forms of seasoning:
salt and pepper. These are like t he cement t hat holds your cooking t oget her. They help t o
meld all t he ot her flavours and make t hem st ronger for it , and provide t he backbone on
which t he ot her ingredient s will rest . By seasoning confident ly, and early on in t he cooking
process, you lock in t he flavours and allow t hem t o permeat e t he whole dish.
People are somet imes shocked at how much seasoning professional chefs use. When
we say a pinch, we somet imes mean a handful. But as I say, t his is what helps t o develop a
dept h of flavour, and alt hough it looks a lot , you probably end up using less t han you would
if you had t o add salt at t he t able. There was a rumour t hat I had CCTV inst alled in my
rest aurant at Claridges in order t o see who was adding salt t o t heir food so I could have
t hem t hrown out . It wasnt t rue, of course we did have cameras, but t hey were t o see
when cust omers were finishing t heir dishes so we could t ime t heir next course but I do
t hink t hat if t he kit chen is doing it s job properly, by t he t ime food leaves t he kit chen it
should be perfect ly seasoned.
SALT
I never have refined t able salt in my house, not even for salt ing veget able wat er. I always
use sea salt fleur de sel from Brit t any out of preference, but Maldon salt from Essex is
very good t oo. I find t he minerals in it give it a more complex flavour, and again you need
less of it . If you wat ch It alians cooking past a, youll see t hem act ually t ast e t he boiling
wat er t o make sure it is seasoned properly. They will use 10g salt (2 t easpoons) for every
lit re of wat er. It should be a similar rat io for boiling veget ables.
PEPPER
All pepper is not t he same eit her, alt hough t he t hree t ypes black, green and whit e all
come from t he same bush. Black peppercorns are fully mat ure and have t he st rongest
flavour. Green peppercorns are immat ure berries t hat are eit her dried or brined. They are
milder and much used in Asian cooking. Whit e peppercorns are black ones wit h t he husk
removed. They t end t o have a more nose-prickling qualit y but lack t he brut e st rengt h of
black ones. They are generally used for aest het ic purposes in a whit e sauce, for
example, where you might not want t o have black specks. You cert ainly dont need t o
worry about st ocking bot h, but , as wit h all spices, it is bet t er t o keep t hem whole and grind
t hem as and when you need t hem. The recipe for Sichuan Dan Dan Noodles (see here)
uses Sichuan pepper, which is not act ually pepper at all, but t he pod of an Asian berry. It
has a mild lemony flavour and causes a slight t ingling around t he mout h when you eat it .
BASIC SPICE KIT
Were probably all guilt y of having a few jars of spice fest ering at t he back of our
cupboards, but you should really have a clear-out at least every 12 mont hs. Spices
det eriorat e very quickly, and aft er six mont hs t heyll have lost most of t heir flavour,
especially if t hey are already ground. So t he first rule is not t o buy in bulk. Only purchase
what you t hink you will need wit hin t he next six mont hs or so. Keep t hem in an airt ight
cont ainer, away from direct sunlight and heat (a t in is bet t er t han a jar for t his reason).
Whole spices will st ay fresh longer t han ground ones, so, where possible, buy whole and
grind as and when you need t hem. List ed opposit e are t he basic spices I keep t o hand.
Theyll allow you t o make your own Madras powder for t he Curry-spiced Sweet corn Soup
(see here), for example, or a Moroccan-st yle ras el hanout mix for t he Roast ed Squash
Houmous (see here).
CARDAMOM
A versat ile spice wit h a warm, sweet flavour. You can eit her add t he pod whole, or crush it
t o ext ract t he seeds, which can t hen be ground if you like.
CHILLI POWDER
Made of ground dried chillies, t he powder can vary in pot ency, so t reat wit h caut ion.
Cayenne pepper is specifically from t he cayenne chilli.
CINNAMON
The rolled bark of a Sri Lankan t ree, cinnamon goes part icularly well wit h sugar. It s also
used a lot in meat y savoury dishes such as Moroccan t agines.
CLOVES
These dried flower buds, wit h t heir medicinal flavour, are essent ial in dishes as diverse as
bread sauce, roast gammon, apple crumble and mulled wine. Go easy wit h t hem, as t hey
can easily overpower.
CORIANDER
These dried berries have a sweet aromat ic flavour t hat bears no similarit y t o t he herb t hat
produces t hem. Great wit h cumin in home-made burgers or poaching liquor for fish.
CUMIN
These small seeds have a st rong, pungent aroma t hat lends a familiar backnot e t o many
Indian and Mexican dishes. A lit t le goes a long way.
FENNEL SEEDS
The seeds of t he fennel plant have a more pronounced aniseed flavour t han t he bulbs
and go part icularly well wit h pork.
FENUGREEK
A bit t er Medit erranean seed used in curry powders, wit h an aroma similar t o celery. An
essent ial part of home-made ras el hanout , a Moroccan spice mix also cont aining
cinnamon, cloves, coriander and cumin.
GINGER
I use fresh ginger where possible because it has a much more lively, zingy flavour. But
ground ginger is also useful, part icularly in baking.
MUSTARD SEEDS
We are used t o seeing t hese in wholegrain must ard. Their nat ural fieriness is t empered
when t hey are roast ed and t hey become nut t ier in flavour. Essent ial in Indian cooking.
NUTMEG AND MACE
Bot h t hese spices come from t he nut meg t ree, mace being t he out er lat t ice covering of
t he nut meg seed. Bot h have a warm, eart hy, aromat ic flavour, but mace is slight ly st ronger
and sweet er; it works part icularly well in cust ard-based dessert s. Nut meg is essent ial in a
t radit ional whit e sauce or rice pudding.
PAPRIKA
A bright red powder made from dried peppers. It can be sweet or hot , smoked or
unsmoked, and is a charact erist ic feat ure of Spanish and Hungarian cooking.
STAR ANISE
I love st ar anise more t han any ot her spice. It has a fragrant , slight ly sweet aniseed flavour
and is a key ingredient in Chinese five-spice powder. It lends it self t o everyt hing from lamb
casserole t o t art e t at in.
SUMAC
A dark reddish spice, sumac is widely used in Middle East ern cooking, impart ing a t angy,
lemony flavour.
TURMERIC
A bright yellow spice t hat comes from a dried root . It gives curry powder it s hallmark colour
and has an eart hy, must ardy flavour.
HOW TO USE SPICES
Toast ing spices before cooking wit h t hem releases t heir oils and aromas, making t hem
much more fragrant and easier t o grind. Place t hem in a dry pan over a medium heat and
shake t he pan unt il t he spices give off a warm, nut t y aroma about a minut e. Take t hem
off t he heat and allow t hem t o cool before crushing t hem wit h a pest le and mort ar.
Alt ernat ively, if t he recipe calls for leaving t he spices whole, you can fry t hem gent ly in
oil. The oil will t hen t ake on all t he spices flavours and pass t hem on t o anyt hing else t hat
is now added t o t he pan, such as chopped onions or t omat oes. Be careful, t hough, as
spices can quickly burn, so you need t o keep st irring t hem. Add more oil or a lit t le wat er if
t hey st art t o cat ch.
CHILLIES
As wit h most ingredient s, we are really spoilt wit h t he range of chillies we can buy now.
Not so long ago, youd be lucky t o find a choice bet ween red and green. Nowadays most
supermarket s st ock a choice of variet ies and t here are lot s of chilli farms t hat will do mail
order. (Whod have t hought England would t urn out t o be such a good place t o grow a
t ropical plant ?) The best chillies deliver a wonderful fruit iness alongside a liberal dose of
heat .
Which chillies you use in your cooking depends on how spicy you like your food. The
heat comes from an alkaloid called capsaicin and is measured in unit s known as Scovilles.
The birds eye chilli t he small red one used in a lot of Thai cooking measures 225,000
Scovilles, while t he Scot ch bonnet , which I use in Jerk Chicken (see here) comes in at
350,000. If t hat all sounds t oo much, t he green jalapeo is just 5,000, alt hough t he heat
does develop t he longer it cooks. When smoked and dried, t he jalapeo becomes t he
chipot le. Sold dried, or in a sweet adobo sauce, it adds a rich spiciness t o braised meat s
and sauces.
If you want t o reduce t he heat of a chilli, remove t he seeds before cooking as t hese
are t he fieriest part . To do t his, hold t he chilli bet ween t he palms of your hands and rub
t hem t oget her backwards and forwards. This will break t he membrane holding t he seeds.
Now cut t he t op off and shake t he chilli t o release all t he seeds. To chop chillies finely, see
here.
SPICES
Spicy pancakes
Spicy beef salad
Jerk chicken
Shawarma spiced chicken wraps
CURRY-SPICED
SWEETCORN SOUP
SERVES 4
One of t he first t hings I learnt on my t ravels t o India was t hat t here is no such t hing as curry
powder. Every household would have it s own favourit e blend of spices, wit h subt le dist inct ions.
Below is my version of a spicy Madras mix, which t akes a simple sweet corn soup int o anot her
league. Dry-frying and grinding up t he spices fresh and t o order make a world of difference t o
recipes.
1 onion, peeled and finely diced
1 large pot at o, peeled and cubed
1 lit re veget able or chicken st ock
1 420g t in creamed corn
2 200g t ins sweet corn
FOR THE MADRAS CURRY PASTE
1 t bsp coriander seeds
1 t bsp cumin seeds
1 t sp chilli powder
1 t sp ground t urmeric
2 t sp peeled and chopped fresh root ginger
t sp salt
Olive oil
1. First make t he curry past e. Toast t he coriander and cumin seeds in a dry, medium-hot frying
pan for about 1 minut e unt il aromat ic. Grind in a mort ar t o a fine powder, t hen add t he garlic
and grind t o form a smoot h past e. Add t he chilli powder, t urmeric, ginger and salt and mix well.
Loosen by adding a lit t le oil.
2. To make t he soup, heat a large oiled saucepan over a medium heat . Sweat t he onion for 5
minut es unt il soft but not coloured. Add t he curry past e and cook wit h t he onion for about 2
minut es unt il aromat ic. Add t he pot at o and st ir around in t he curry past e. Pour in t he st ock,
season and bring t o t he boil. Lower t he heat and simmer gent ly for about 7 minut es unt il t he
pot at o is soft and cooked t hrough.
3. Add t he creamed corn, t hen add half t he t inned sweet corn and half t he liquid it s st ored in.
Heat t hrough, t hen remove from t he heat and blend wit h a st ick blender unt il t he chunks of
pot at oes have been fully blit zed and t he soup is smoot h. Add t he remaining t inned sweet corn
and it s liquid. Heat , t ast e and adjust t he seasoning as necessary. Serve warm.
SPICY PANCAKES
MAKES 6 PANCAKES
These spicy pancakes are t radit ionally served for breakfast in India. I know some people might
baulk at so much spice for breakfast but t hey are st rangely addict ive. Theres no reason why
you shouldnt have t hem for lunch or supper inst ead, washed down wit h beer inst ead of chai.
12 t sp cumin seeds
1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped, t o t ast e
3cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped or grat ed
125g plain flour
1 large egg
275ml whole milk, plus an ext ra 12 t bsp
FOR THE SPICED POTATO FILLING
1 t sp must ard seeds
onion, peeled and t hinly sliced
46 cold, peeled boiled pot at oes, roughly chopped
TO SERVE
6 t bsp nat ural yoghurt
2 t bsp chopped coriander
1. Toast t he cumin seeds wit h a pinch of salt in a dry, medium-hot pan for about 1 minut e unt il
aromat ic. Add a dash of oil and saut t he chilli, garlic and ginger for a furt her 2 minut es unt il
soft ened. Remove from t he heat .
2. Put t he spice/garlic mix int o a bowl. Sift in t he flour, season and make a well in t he middle,
t hen break in t he egg and add half of t he milk. Whisk t he flour int o t he egg slowly unt il well
incorporat ed, t hen gradually add t he remaining milk. Cont inue whisking unt il t he mixt ure is
smoot h and has t he consist ency of double cream. Whisk in 1 t easpoon of oil, t hen t ast e and
adjust t he seasoning if necessary. Leave t he bat t er t o rest for 10 minut es.
3. Meanwhile, make t he spiced pot at o filling. Heat a lit t le oil in a large frying pan over a medium
heat , add t he must ard seeds and cook for 12 minut es unt il t he seeds begin t o pop. Add t he
onion and cook for 5 minut es unt il soft and golden brown. St ir in t he t urmeric and cooked
pot at oes and season, adding a dash of olive oil if necessary t o aid frying. Fry over a medium
heat for 34 minut es unt il soft ened and heat ed t hrough. Leave t o one side while you cook t he
pancakes.
4. Heat a large, wide frying pan, t hen add a lit t le oil. If t he bat t er has t hickened t oo much, add a
t ablespoon or t wo of milk. Pour in a ladleful of bat t er and t ilt t he pan t o spread t he bat t er out .
Cook for a minut e on one side unt il golden and crisp, t hen flip t he pancake and cont inue t o
cook for a furt her minut e unt il cooked t hrough. Keep warm while repeat ing wit h t he remaining
bat t er.
5. Mix t he yoghurt and coriander t oget her and season t o t ast e.
6. To serve, place a large spoonful of t he pot at o filling in t he middle of each pancake, adding a
dollop of t he yoghurt if you like, t hen roll up int o a sausage shape.
GRILLED CORN WITH
CHIPOTLE CHILLI BUTTER
SERVES 4
Were swit ching cont inent s here and going t o Mexico, where youll find st reet vendors selling
grilled sweet corn on every corner. Chipot les are smoked and dried jalapeo peppers wit h a
sweet , eart hy flavour, and Lancashire cheese has just t he right milkiness t o t ame t he mild heat .
4 whole corn on t he cob, husks removed
80g but t er, soft ened
12 dried chipot le chillies, rehydrat ed and finely chopped
2 t bsp chopped coriander leaves
4 t bsp crumbled Lancashire cheese
Lime wedges, t o serve
1. Heat a large, heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat . Add a lit t le oil and gent ly cook t he
cobs in t he pan for about 5 minut es unt il coloured and light ly charred all over. Add 34
t ablespoons of wat er t o t he pan and cont inue t o cook over a medium heat for about 8 minut es
unt il t he liquid has evaporat ed and t he corn is cooked t hrough (t urn down t he heat if it st art s
t o colour t oo much).
2. Meanwhile, mix t oget her t he but t er, chillies, coriander and a lit t le seasoning.
3. Once t he corn is cooked, remove and cover wit h knobs of t he chipot le but t er, allowing it t o
melt over t he corn. Sprinkle over t he cheese and serve wit h wedges of lime.
ROASTED SQUASH
HOUMOUS
SERVES 810
Just as t heres no universal curry powder, nor is t here a universal ras el hanout . It is Arabic for
head of t he shop and is t radit ionally a blend of t he best spices a merchant has t o offer.
Combined wit h chickpeas, roast ed squash and t ahini, and served wit h pit t a, it makes a lovely
dip t o accompany drinks or, wit h a salad, a nice light lunch.
1 but t ernut squash, about 850g, peeled, deseeded and cubed
2 garlic cloves, bashed
3cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped
Olive oil
1 t bsp t ahini
1 400g t in chickpeas, drained and rinsed
Juice of lemon
Warmed or griddled pit t a bread or flat bread, t o serve
FOR THE RAS EL HANOUT SPICE BLEND
1 cinnamon st ick
1 t sp cloves
1 t bsp coriander seeds
t bsp fenugreek seeds
t bsp fennel seeds
t bsp cumin seeds
1 t sp paprika
1. First make t he spice blend. Break t he cinnamon st ick int o pieces. Place in a dry pan wit h t he
cloves and seeds, and t oast over a medium heat for about 1 minut e unt il aromat ic and t he
seeds are popping (shake t he spices in t he pan as you heat t hem t o prevent t hem from
burning).
2. Once t oast ed, remove from t he heat , and add t he paprika. Place in a spice grinder, blender or
mort ar and grind unt il t he mixt ure is a powder sift it if necessary. This spice blend will keep for
up t o 3 mont hs if st ored in an airt ight cont ainer.
4. Make t he houmous. In a large bowl mix t he cubed squash, garlic cloves and ginger wit h 2
t ablespoons of olive oil and 1 t ablespoon of t he spice mix. Season wit h salt and pepper and
scat t er in a single layer in a roast ing t ray. Place in t he preheat ed oven and cook for 30 minut es
unt il t ender all t he way t hrough.
5. Once t he squash is soft , add t he cont ent s of t he t ray t o a blender, discarding t he garlic
skins. Add t he t ahini, chickpeas and a squeeze of lemon juice along wit h 2 t ablespoons of olive
oil. Blend unt il smoot h. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning as necessary you might need some
ext ra lemon juice.
6. Transfer t he houmous t o a bowl and sprinkle wit h a lit t le of t he spice mix. Drizzle wit h olive
oil and serve wit h warmed or griddled pit t a bread on t he side.
NOODLES WITH
CHILLI, GINGER
AND LEMONGRASS
SERVES 2
The best noodles t o use for t his dish are t hose fine ones dried int o flat t ened nest s sold in
Asian supermarket s. They are packed slight ly less t ight ly t han t he ones t hat come in round
nest s or st icks in ot her supermarket s, meaning t hat t hey will be even bet t er at expanding and
puffing up. If you prefer not t o fry t he noodles, you can simply rehydrat e t hem according t o t he
packet inst ruct ions.
1 lemongrass st ick, bashed and cut in half
1 kaffir lime leaf
1 t sp ground cumin
t sp ground coriander
t sp ground t urmeric
500ml veget able or chicken st ock
150ml coconut cream
Fish sauce, t o t ast e
250ml veget able or groundnut oil, for deep-frying
150g rice vermicelli noodles
Coriander leaves and sliced red chilli, t o garnish
1. Heat a saucepan over a medium heat and add a lit t le oil. Fry t he onion for 34 minut es unt il
soft , t hen add t he garlic, chilli and ginger and fry for a furt her 2 minut es unt il t he garlic is soft .
2. St ir in t he lemongrass and lime leaf. Sprinkle in t he spices, being careful not t o burn t hem,
and immediat ely add t he st ock and coconut cream. Season wit h fish sauce, salt and pepper.
Bring t o t he boil, t hen lower t he heat and simmer gent ly for 1015 minut es unt il t he sauce is
slight ly t hickened, aromat ic and flavourful. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning as necessary,
adding more fish sauce if needed.
3. To make t he noodles, heat t he veget able oil in a large wok or wide, high-sided frying pan
unt il it reaches 170C or a cube of bread dropped int o t he oil sizzles and t urns brown aft er 30
seconds. Drop small handfuls of t he noodles int o t he hot oil (st and back as t hey will expand
rapidly as soon as t hey hit t he heat ). As soon as t hey puff out , t urn t hem over wit h kit chen
t ongs, and cook on t he ot her side for 1 minut e. Do not allow t hem t o colour at all. Remove,
drain on kit chen paper and repeat wit h t he remaining bat ches of noodles.
4. Place t he noodle nest s in 2 wide serving bowls. Remove t he lemongrass and lime leaves
from t he sauce, t hen spoon it around t he noodles. The underside of t hem will absorb some of
t he sauce, but t he t op will remain crisp and crunchy. Serve garnished wit h coriander leaves and
chilli.
SPICY BEEF SALAD
SERVES 4
I fell in love wit h t his simple dressing of garlic, chilli, fish sauce, sugar and lime in Viet nam and
Cambodia. It s t he perfect blend of sweet , sour, salt y and bit t er, and works wit h most seafood
and meat , but is part icularly good wit h st eak.
2 beef sirloin st eaks, 200250g each
2 carrot s, t rimmed and peeled
6 radishes, t rimmed and finely sliced
200g cherry t omat oes, sliced in half
Bunch of mint , leaves only, shredded
1 small banana shallot , peeled and finely sliced
3 spring onions, t rimmed and shredded
large cucumber, t rimmed, peeled, deseeded and sliced
2 baby gem let t uces, shredded
4 t bsp skinned peanut s, t o garnish
FOR THE THAI-STYLE DRESSING
1 garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1 red chilli, deseeded and chopped
2 t sp grat ed palm sugar or palm sugar past e (if unavailable, use golden cast er sugar)
23 t bsp fish sauce, or t o t ast e
Juice of 12 limes
1. Season t he st eaks generously on bot h sides, pushing t he seasoning int o t he meat . Add a
dash of oil t o a hot pan and fry t he st eaks over a high heat on eit her side for 23 minut es
(medium rare). Hold t he fat side of t he st eaks against t he pan t o render t he fat . When cooked
t o your liking, remove t he st eaks from t he heat and leave t o rest , pouring any cooking juices on
t op.
2. To make t he dressing, put t he garlic and chilli in a mort ar wit h a pinch of salt and grind t o a
past e. Add t he sugar, fish sauce and lime juice and st ir wit h a spoon. Tast e, add a lit t le more
lime juice if needed, and set aside.
3. Meanwhile, using a veget able peeler, cut t he carrot s int o ribbons. Place in a bowl wit h t he
radishes, t omat oes, mint , shallot , spring onions, cucumber and let t uce. Add about 46
t ablespoons of t he dressing and mix well t o combine.
4. Thickly slice t he st eak at an angle. Toast t he peanut s wit h a pinch of salt for a few minut es
in a clean dry pan and roughly chop. Place t he st eak on t op of t he salad and scat t er over t he
chopped peanut s. Drizzle over t he remaining dressing and serve immediat ely.
HOW TO CHOOSE SALAD ONIONS
Banana shallot s are part icularly good used raw in salads. They are sweet and flavoursome and
have none of t he acridness of Spanish onions.
VIETNAMESE-STYLE
BEEF BAGUETTE
SERVES 2
France and Viet nam have an associat ion going back t o t he ninet eent h cent ury, so mixing t heir
cuisines isn't as odd as it sounds. The ingredient s used here baguet t es on t he one hand and
a Viet namese marinade and dressing on t he ot her work really well t oget her, proving t hat
somet imes cooking is all about combining t he unexpect ed.
1 t bsp soy sauce
1 t bsp runny honey
2 t hin sirloin st eaks or minut e st eaks, t rimmed of fat , each cut int o 1cm st rips
1 carrot , peeled and grat ed
1 t sp rice vinegar
1 baguet t e
cucumber, deseeded and julienned (see here)
2 t bsp chopped coriander, t o t ast e
FOR THE DRESSING
1 t bsp fish sauce
Juice of 1 lime, t o t ast e
1 t sp cast er sugar
red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1. Mix t he soy sauce and honey t oget her in a bowl. Once combined, add t he st rips of st eak and
t oss well. Leave t o marinat e for up t o 2 hours.
2. Meanwhile, mix t he dressing ingredient s t oget her, st irring t o dissolve t he sugar. Tast e and
adjust t he flavours as necessary, adding a lit t le more lime juice if needed.
3. Mix t he grat ed carrot wit h t he rice vinegar and leave t o one side t o marinat e.
4. Cut off t he ends of t he baguet t e and cut t he loaf in half. Slice t he t wo halves open and push
down t he bread inside.
5. Thread t he st rips of st eak ont o skewers (if using bamboo skewers, soak t hem in wat er for
20 minut es beforehand), reserving any left over marinade. Heat a frying pan over a high heat ,
add a dash of oil and fry t he skewered meat on each side for 1 minut e, pouring over any
reserved marinade.
6. Remove t he st eaks from t he skewers and press int o t he opened baguet t e so t hat any meat
juices run int o t he bread. Drain t he carrot and divide bet ween t he sandwiches. Top wit h t he
cucumber and season t o t ast e.
7. Drizzle t he dressing over t he filling. Garnish wit h coriander, close t he sandwiches and serve.
SICHUAN DAN DAN
NOODLES
SERVES 2
Dan dan noodles is a classic Chinese dish from Sichuan, which is not ed for it s spicy food. The
heat here comes not from fresh chilli, but from chilli bean past e. If you cant find any, replace it
wit h 1 t ablespoon of Chinese chilli oil inst ead.
250g minced pork
t bsp Shaoxing rice wine
t bsp soy sauce, plus ext ra t o t ast e
t bsp sesame oil, plus ext ra t o garnish
2cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and chopped
1 t bsp Chinese chilli bean past e, t o t ast e
Rice vinegar, t o t ast e
200g dried Chinese egg noodles
TO SERVE
1 t bsp t oast ed sesame seeds
1. Marinat e t he mince in t he Shaoxing wine, soy sauce and sesame oil. Leave for at least 10
minut es.
2. Heat a wok over a medium-high heat and add a dash of oil. Add t he garlic and ginger t o t he
pan and cook for 30 seconds t o soft en t heir raw flavour. Add t he mince, along wit h any
marinade, and t he Sichuan peppercorns. Cook for 5 minut es, breaking up t he mince unt il it s
coloured on all sides. Tast e and season wit h a lit t le ext ra soy sauce if needed. Add t he chilli
bean past e and a couple of drops of rice vinegar.
3. Cook t he pork mixt ure for a furt her 2 minut es t o allow t he flavours t o develop. Add a couple
of t ablespoons of wat er and mix over a low heat t o creat e a sauce.
4. Meanwhile, cook t he noodles following t he packet inst ruct ions. Drain, t hen st ir int o t he pork
in t he wok. Tast e and re-season if needed. Serve garnished wit h drops of sesame oil, t he
spring onions and t oast ed sesame seeds.
JERK CHICKEN
SERVES 4
This is real feel-good carnival food. Theres not hing demanding about it , but t he warmt h of t he
spices punct uat ed by t he fierce heat of t he Scot ch bonnet chillies always put s a smile on my
face. If you dont like t oo much heat , use less chilli, of course, or even a milder variet y, such as
t he Tabasco or jalapeo.
4 large chicken legs, skin on, cut int o drumst icks and t highs and scored
Rice, t o serve
45 t hyme sprigs, t o garnish (opt ional)
FOR THE MARINADE
12 Scot ch bonnet chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
1 t sp ground cloves
1 t sp ground cinnamon
1 t sp ground nut meg
2 t sp ground allspice
57 t hyme sprigs, leaves only (you will need about 2 t bsp)
Olive oil
2. First prepare t he marinade by combining all t he ingredient s wit h a good grinding of black
pepper and a dash of oil. Rub t he marinade int o t he chicken pieces, massaging it int o t he
scored meat . Leave t o marinat e for at least 1 hour (or, bet t er st ill, overnight ).
3. Heat a large ovenproof pan over a medium-high heat and add a dash of oil. Fry t he chicken
pieces for about 10 minut es unt il golden brown on all sides. Add t he Worcest ershire sauce and
cook for 2 minut es.
4. Cover wit h an ovenproof lid or foil and place in t he preheat ed oven for 20 minut es unt il
cooked t hrough (if your pan isnt ovenproof, simply t ransfer t he chicken t o a roast ing t ray).
Remove t he foil for t he last 5 minut es if t he chicken needs colouring a lit t le more.
5. Serve t he chicken hot wit h rice.
SHAWARMA SPICED
CHICKEN WRAPS
SERVES 2
Shawarma is t he name of t he vert ical spit s of meat you see in Arabic rest aurant s, normally
eat en in pit t a bread wit h t abbouleh, cucumber and t omat o and t opped wit h houmous or t ahini.
It s t he Middle East ern t ake on fast food, and just as good made at home. We used t ort illas for
t he wraps, but parat has can be used if you prefer.
4 boneless, skinless chicken t highs
24 t ort illa wraps or parat ha breads
2 spring onions, t rimmed and finely shredded
head of point ed cabbage, finely shredded
FOR THE MARINADE
t sp ground cinnamon
t sp ground ginger
Seeds from 3 cardamom pods, ground in a mort ar
Pinch of freshly grat ed nut meg
Juice of lemon
Small bunch of coriander, leaves chopped
Olive oil
TO SERVE
Mayonnaise
Chilli sauce or sauce of your choice
1. First make t he marinade. Place t he spices, garlic, lemon juice and coriander in a small blender
or mort ar and grind unt il smoot h. Add 5 t ablespoons of olive oil, along wit h a generous pinch of
salt and pepper, and blend again t o mix well. Transfer t he marinade t o a large dish. Add t he
chicken and rub in t he marinade, making sure t hat all of t he chicken is covered. Leave t o
marinat e for up t o 2 hours.
3. Heat a griddle pan over a medium heat . Remove t he chicken from t he marinade, shaking off
any excess, and cook on t he hot griddle for 34 minut es on each side unt il slight ly charred but
not burnt . Transfer t o a roast ing t ray and finish cooking in t he oven for 58 minut es. Leave t he
chicken t o rest .
4. Meanwhile, cook t he t ort illa wraps in bat ches in a single layer on t he cleaned, slight ly oiled
griddle pan. Toast on each side for 2 minut es or unt il t he wraps are hot all t he way t hrough but
st ill pliable. Keep warm.
5. Remove t he chicken from t he oven and slice int o bit e-sized chunks. Place some chicken on
each warm wrap and sprinkle wit h spring onions and shredded cabbage. Add mayonnaise and
chilli sauce t o t ast e, t hen roll up t he wraps and serve.
CHILLI BEEF
LETTUCE WRAPS
SERVES 4
Great food doesnt have t o be complex, as t hese simple beef wraps show. They are really
quick t o make and perfect wit h a few beers at t he st art of t he evening. It s really import ant t o
get a good colour on t he mince. Be bold and t ake it furt her t han youve ever dared before.
200g lean minced beef
200g minced pork
Toast ed sesame oil, for frying
12 red chillies, deseeded and chopped
1 t bsp light brown sugar
1 t bsp fish sauce
Zest of 1 lime, juice of
2 lit t le gem let t uces, separat ed int o leaves, t o serve
FOR THE DRESSING
1 t bsp soy sauce
Juice of lime
1 t sp sesame oil
red chilli, t hinly sliced
Small bunch of coriander leaves, chopped
12 t sp fish sauce, t o t ast e
1 t sp light brown sugar
1 t bsp olive oil
1. Heat a large frying pan and add a lit t le oil. Mix t he minced beef and pork t oget her. Season
wit h salt and pepper and mix well t o ensure t he seasoning is evenly dist ribut ed. Fry t he mince
in t he hot pan for 57 minut es unt il crisp and brown and broken down t o a fine consist ency.
Drain t he crisped mince in a sieve t his will help it st ay crispy. Set aside.
2. Wipe out t he pan and add a t ablespoon of t oast ed sesame oil. Add t he garlic, ginger and
chilli. Fry wit h a pinch of salt and t he sugar for 2 minut es. Add t he drained mince and st ir t o mix.
3. Add t he fish sauce and heat t hrough. St ir in t he lime zest and juice, t hen add t he spring
onions, st irring for 30 seconds. Turn off t he heat .
4. Mix all t he dressing ingredient s t oget her and adjust t o t ast e.
5. To serve, spoon some of t he mince mixt ure int o t he let t uce leaves, drizzle wit h a lit t le
dressing and serve.
PORK NECK CURRY
WITH MANGO SALSA
SERVES 46
This has got t o be my favourit e curry in t he world: all t hose zingy Thai flavours wit h one of t he
most overlooked cut s of pork, and t opped off wit h a really fresh, light mango salsa. Dont be put
off by t he long list of ingredient s: t his is one of t hose dishes t hat t akes a bit of set t ing up, but
t hen bubbles away on it s own.
1kg pork neck, cut int o 2.5cm chunks
1 onion, peeled and finely sliced
1 400ml t in coconut milk
1 t bsp palm sugar or golden cast er sugar
1 t bsp soy sauce, t o t ast e
1 t bsp fish sauce, t o t ast e
Rice, t o serve
FOR THE CURRY PASTE
1 lemongrass st ick, bashed and finely chopped
4 kaffir lime leaves, 2 shredded
12 red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped, t o t ast e
1 t sp ground cinnamon
2 t sp ground coriander
2 t bsp olive oil
FOR THE MANGO SALSA
1 mango, not t oo ripe, peeled and finely diced
1 small red onion, peeled and finely diced
Small bunch of coriander, roughly chopped
2 t bsp chopped t oast ed peanut s
Juice of 1 lime
1. First make t he curry past e. Combine t he lemongrass, shredded lime leaves, chillies, ginger,
garlic, cinnamon and coriander wit h a good pinch of salt and a generous grinding of pepper in a
small food processor. Blit z t o a smoot h past e, t hen add t he oil t o loosen slight ly.
2. Heat a glug of oil in a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and brown t he pork neck (you
may have t o do t his in bat ches, depending on t he size of your pan) for about 5 minut es unt il
coloured all over. Remove and set t o one side. Add a lit t le more oil t o t he pan, t hen add t he
onion and cook for 34 minut es unt il t ender and beginning t o colour on t he edges.
3. Add t he curry past e, st irring it around unt il aromat ic and well mixed int o t he onions. Ret urn
t he pork t o t he pan, st ir t o coat in t he curry past e, t hen add t he coconut milk. St ir t horoughly,
scraping up any bit s st uck t o t he bot t om of t he pan.
4. Add t he chicken st ock, mixing well, t hen st ir in t he sugar, whole lime leaves, soy sauce and
fish sauce. Tast e and adjust t he flavours as necessary, adding more soy and/or fish sauce
along wit h salt and pepper if needed. Bring t o t he boil t hen simmer gent ly for 1 hour, st irring
occasionally unt il t he sauce is t hick and flavourful and t he pork t ender.
5. Meanwhile, mix t oget her t he salsa ingredient s and season t o t ast e. Serve t he curry wit h rice
t opped wit h t he mango salsa.
CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
WITH CHILLI AND MANGO
SERVES 4
Chocolat e and chilli is one of t hose combinat ions made in heaven, and t he mango just t akes it
t o anot her dimension. As ever, make sure you use a good-qualit y chocolat e, and if you can get
a sweet , perfumed Alphonso mango, in season from April t o May, so much t he bet t er.
23 mild red chillies, deseeded and chopped
150g dark chocolat e (70 per cent cocoa solids)
2 large egg yolks
60g cast er sugar
175ml double cream
1 small ripe mango
1. Melt t he but t er in a small pan wit h t he chopped chilli over a low heat . Leave t o infuse for 30
minut es, t hen st rain and discard t he chilli.
2. Break t he chocolat e int o pieces in a large heat proof bowl. Add t he infused but t er and set
t he bowl over a pan of gent ly simmering wat er. Heat t he chocolat e for about 10 minut es,
st irring frequent ly, unt il it melt s, t hen remove and cool t o room t emperat ure.
3. Meanwhile, put t he egg yolks, sugar and 2 t ablespoons of cold wat er in a large bowl. Place
t he bowl over a pan of gent ly simmering wat er. Using a hand-held elect ric whisk, beat t he eggs
and sugar for 510 minut es, unt il you are left wit h a pale, t hick foam t hat holds a t rail when t he
beat ers are lift ed up. Remove t he bowl from t he heat and set aside.
4. Using a balloon whisk, soft ly whip t he cream in a separat e bowl. When t he melt ed chocolat e
and egg yolk mixt ures are at t he same t emperat ure as t he whipped cream, gent ly fold t he egg
yolk mixt ure int o t he chocolat e using a large met al spoon. Using a figure-of-eight mot ion, fold in
t he whipped cream quickly and gent ly.
5. Divide t he mixt ure bet ween 4 small glasses and chill for at least 2 hours. When you are ready
t o serve, cut t he mango eit her side of t he st one, t hen peel and slice t he flesh int o t hin wedges.
Place a couple of mango slices delicat ely on t op of each mousse and serve.
HOW TO WHIP CREAM
It is very easy t o overwhip cream and cause it t o go grainy if you are using an elect ric whisk.
Whisking cream by hand is t iring but gives you more cont rol and allows you t o achieve t he
perfect , soft billowy t ext ure you're looking for.
FRAGRANT SPICED
RICE PUDDING
SERVES 46
I really got int o t he fragrance of chai t ea when I was in India, and t ransferring t he same spices
of cardamom, cloves, vanilla and cinnamon t o rice pudding t ransforms it from a Plain Jane int o
somet hing spect acular. Dont wash t he rice first , as you would for a savoury dish, because t he
st arch helps t he pudding.
2 cardamom pods, light ly crushed
1 vanilla pod, split open and seeds scraped out
3 cloves
cinnamon st ick, snapped in half
600ml whole milk
Zest of 1 limes
225g pudding rice
2 egg yolks
2 heaped t bsp mascarpone cheese
2. Put t he cardamom pods, vanilla pod and seeds in a hob-proof baking dish wit h t he cloves
and cinnamon st ick. Place over a medium heat and t oast for 2 minut es unt il aromat ic.
3. Add t he coconut milk, sugar, milk and double cream and bring slowly t o t he boil, st irring
gent ly as you do so. Add t he zest of 1 lime, t hen t ast e, adding more if you like. Pour in t he rice
and mix well. Bring t o t he boil, reduce t o a simmer and cook gent ly for 5 minut es, st irring
cont inuously.
4. Mix t oget her t he egg yolks and mascarpone and add t o t he rice mixt ure off t he heat ,
ensuring it is well combined. Sprinkle t he remaining lime zest over t he t op of t he dish and place
in t he preheat ed oven for 1520 minut es unt il golden brown on t op and t he rice is cooked
t hrough.
HOW TO TOAST SPICES
Toast ing spices in a dry pan for even just a few seconds enhances and draws out t heir
fragrance. Be careful not t o burn t hem or t hey will t urn bit t er and youll t ast e it in t he final dish.
WEVE ALL SEEN HOW OUR
FOOD BILLS HAVE ROCKETED
OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS.
Were feeling it at home and in t he rest aurant t oo, and t he signs are t hat it s only going t o
get worse. Weve grown used t o a period when t he cost of food has act ually been very low
as a percent age of our income, so now were all having t o readjust . That s why it s such a
great skill in t he kit chen t o be able t o conjure up great meals from cheap ingredient s. What
would a Michelin-st arred chef know about economy, you might ask? Dont we just buy t he
best ingredient s, t he most expensive cut s, and t hen charge our cust omers accordingly?
Well, best ingredient s, yes; but most expensive, no. Of course cust omers will expect a
piece of t urbot , scallops and saddle of lamb on t he menu of a smart rest aurant , but you
always have t o balance t his out wit h cheaper ingredient s. The secret is knowing how t o
make t hose cheaper ingredient s sing.
When I opened Aubergine in t he early 1990s, money was incredibly t ight , so I t ook t wo
approaches. The first was t o make sure t hat absolut ely not hing was wast ed. Every meat
carcass, every veget able peeling, every scrap of left over bread had t o be re-used, whet her
for a st ock or just a st aff meal. I swear we had t he empt iest bins in London.
Second, I used all t he less fashionable, cheaper cut s of meat , t he ones t he ot her smart
rest aurant s would t urn up t heir noses at t hings like belly of pork, oxt ail and lamb shanks.
I knew t hat t hrough my skill as a chef, Id be able t o add value t o t hose humble cut s, t o
wrest le maximum flavour out of t hem. Any fool (well, almost any fool) can make a meal out
of fillet st eak or a t ranche of wild salmon you just add heat and serve but t o produce
somet hing magical out of breast of lamb or t he humble sardine is so much more rewarding.
It may t ake a lit t le more work, a lit t le more imaginat ion, but it means you can eat well for
considerably less.
The first t ask is t o ident ify t he best -value ingredient s. Your main source of prot ein,
t ypically meat or fish, is normally t he most expensive t hing on your plat e, so if you want t o
keep cost s down, t his is t he place t o st art . You have t wo choices: eit her, as I say, t o use
cheaper cut s or less popular fish, or t o eat less of t hem. When I say cheaper cut s, I dont of
course mean poorer qualit y. Cheap meat wont cook as well, it wont t ast e as good, and in
t he long run it is always a false economy. But cheaper cut s from a qualit y animal are
anot her mat t er. It s a shame we dont eat as much liver or kidney as we used t o, because
t hey st ill represent great value and can be fried off very quickly in a pan. Ot herwise,
cheaper cut s t end t o lend t hemselves t o slow cooking somet hing Ill cover in t he next
chapt er, where youll find recipes for economical braises of all sort s of unfashionable cut s,
such as lamb neck, beef short ribs or oxt ail.
Similarly wit h fish, we t end t o t urn out of habit t o t he prime pieces loins of cod, fillet s
of salmon, whole sea bass when less fashionable and cheaper fish, such as sardines or
mackerel, have a superb flavour and can be dressed up t o become just as excit ing. Try my
Spaghet t i wit h Chilli, Sardines and Oregano (see here) if you dont believe me. Cooking
wit h more veget ables, rice and pulses is probably t he best way t o save money, t hough.
They are fant ast ic for bulking out a dish if you want t o make your meat or fish go furt her
in risot t o, for example, or a prawn jambalaya but t hey can just as easily be t he st ar of
t he show in t heir own right . The t rick is t o give t hem a bit of at t it ude, t o perk t hem up wit h
spices and build up layers of flavour.
Veget ables are always cheaper t han meat , even more so if you shop seasonally. We
t alk endlessly about t he provenance of food, where it is sourced, how far it s t ravelled,
carbon foot print t his, food miles t hat , and t he debat e will rumble on for years. But t he best
argument for buying in season is t hat it s how t o get produce at it s best and it s cheapest .
Asparagus flown in from Peru in November? No t hanks. Ill wait for t he Brit ish asparagus t o
arrive in April, when it will be much fuller of flavour and half t he price. Apples shipped in
from New Zealand? Well, yes, but I wont cook wit h t hem wit h such abandon as I will when
t he English crop is coming in and t he shops and market s are full of t hem.
Always make t he most of t hese seasonal glut s. Visit pick-your-own farms for gooseberries
in June or blackberries in Sept ember, freezing what you dont use immediat ely, and youll
never have t o reach for anot her over-priced punnet of summer fruit s again. Thinking
ahead is always essent ial. It s not just about planning what you will eat in t wo or t hree
days t ime (import ant t hough t hat is t o ensure you dont wast e food) but what you might
eat in t he mont hs ahead.
Ive been inspired t o cook wit h more veget ables and pulses from my t ravels around
t he world. To see t he way t he Indians can make a whole meal out of lent ils, t he Mexicans
t heir black beans, and t he Thais a st ir-fry of rice noodles shows how much t hey have t o
t each us. Developing count ries like t hese have had t o invent healt hy, nourishing and
cheap meals out of necessit y, and now it s a lesson well do well t o learn in t he West .
Wit h all of t hese dishes wit h cooking in general but even more so here t he key is
t o make your ingredient s work for you. If you are using fewer ingredient s, or less of t hem,
you must get t he maximum flavour out of what you do have. You need t o lock every last
inch of flavour int o t he pan. Never rush an onion, for example. Let it sweat slowly and
gent ly in but t er or oil and you will be rewarded wit h a sweet ness you could never imagine.
Crumble a sausage out of it s skin and you will be harnessing far more of it s flavour. Youll
be able t o spread it around t he pan and it will lend more of it s herbs and spices t o t he
ot her ingredient s in t here. Finally, remember what every shrewd housewife has always
known: embrace your left overs and t hrow not hing away. St ale bread makes a great bread
and but t er pudding, but also t urn it int o breadcrumbs so you can make t he meat in a
burger st ret ch furt her. Left over mash or baked pot at oes arent just for bubble and squeak:
bound wit h ricot t a in Home-made Gnocchi (see here) t hey make a fant ast ic alt ernat ive t o
past a. If you can get int o t he habit of incorporat ing your left overs int o t he next days meal,
youll not only eat bet t er, but youll save a fort une t oo.
GOOD FOOD FOR LESS
Nort h African eggs
Home-made gnocchi
Easy arancini
Spicy sausage rice
SPICY BLACK BEANS
WITH FETA AND AVOCADO
SERVES 4
This is Mexican st reet food at it s best , and shows t hat you dont need meat t o make a t ast y
dish. Black beans are a st aple of Mexican cooking because t hey are so robust and filling, and
t he spices, fet a and squeeze of lime juice really bring t hem t o life. When enclosed in crisp
t ort illa wraps, known as t ost adas, t he beans make great st art ers or snacks t o go wit h beer.
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 t bsp olive oil
1 t sp ground cumin
2 400g t ins black beans, drained, liquid reserved
FOR THE TOSTADAS (OPTIONAL)
Veget able oil, for shallow-frying
23 t ort illa wraps, each cut int o 6 wedges
TO SERVE
100g fet a cheese, crumbled
1 avocado, peeled, st oned and roughly chopped
Small bunch of coriander, roughly chopped
Lime wedges
1. Fry t he onion in olive oil for about 5 minut es unt il soft , t hen add t he chilli and garlic and cook
for a furt her 23 minut es. Add t he cumin and cinnamon and cook for a furt her minut e unt il
aromat ic. Add t he beans and a couple of t ablespoons of t he reserved liquid.
2. Cover t he beans and cook gent ly for 10 minut es unt il t hey st art t o break down, t hen remove
from t he heat and leave t o cool slight ly. Mash about t hree-quart ers of t he beans roughly wit h a
fork or t he back of a spoon, leaving some whole. Alt ernat ively, if it s a less rust ic-looking effect
youre aft er, pour t he beans int o a liquidiser and blit z unt il smoot h. Heat t hrough gent ly if t he
mixt ure is t oo t hick, add a lit t le more of t he reserved liquid from t he beans. Season t o t ast e.
3. The beans can be served as t hey st and, scat t ered wit h t he fet a, avocado, coriander and
lime juice. If making t he t ost adas, pour t he veget able oil int o a large frying pan t o a dept h of
2cm and set over a medium-high heat . When hot , fry t he t ort illas in bat ches for 12 minut es on
each side unt il golden. Remove wit h a slot t ed spoon and drain on kit chen paper.
4. The crispy t ort illas should be assembled just before serving so t hat t hey dont go soggy:
spread t hem wit h t he black bean mixt ure and garnish wit h crumbled fet a, avocado and
coriander. Serve wit h wedges of lime.
NORTH AFRICAN EGGS
SERVES 24
Eggs poached in t omat o, pepper, chilli and onions is a t ypical breakfast dish t hroughout t he
Middle East and makes a great st art t o t he day, or a lat e-morning brunch. The roll-call of spices
varies from count ry t o count ry and can include anyt hing from fennel seeds t o caraway or
ginger, but cumin is generally a const ant . To make a more subst ant ial meal, you could always
add some herby sausages. Prick t heir skins first and poach t hem in t he t omat o sauce for 20
minut es.
1 onion, peeled and diced
1 red pepper, deseeded and diced
1 green pepper, deseeded and diced
1 t sp cumin seeds
5 ripe t omat oes, roughly chopped (add a pinch of sugar if t he t omat oes arent quit e ripe)
4 eggs
TO SERVE
1 spring onion, t rimmed and finely chopped
Crust y bread
1. Heat a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat . Add a dash of oil and sweat t he onion
for 5 minut es unt il soft . Add t he peppers and cont inue t o sweat for 5 minut es, t hen add t he
garlic and chilli and fry for 12 minut es unt il soft and t ender.
2. Add t he cumin and fry for 1 minut e, t hen add t he t omat oes, season and cook for 1520
minut es unt il t he t omat oes have complet ely collapsed (add 34 t ablespoons of wat er t o t he
mixt ure if t he t omat oes arent t hat moist ). The mixt ure should be t he consist ency of a t hick
sauce. St ir t o mix well, t ast e and adjust t he seasoning.
3. Make 4 wells in t he t omat o mixt ure and break an egg int o each well. Cover t he pan and cook
gent ly over a medium-low heat for 56 minut es, or unt il t he egg whit e is set and t he yolk is st ill
a lit t le runny.
4. Serve sprinkled wit h coriander leaves and chopped spring onion, plus plent y of crust y bread
on t he side t o mop up any juices.
CHICKEN STIR-FRY
WITH RICE NOODLES
SERVES 2
Youll find versions of t his recipe all across Asia, and it shows how good fast food can be.
Because you are cooking over a high heat , it s import ant t o work quickly and keep everyt hing
moving around t he wok, especially once t he garlic has been added, as it will burn easily and
t ast e bit t er. Flat t ening t he chicken not only means it will cook more quickly, but helps t o
t enderise it t oo.
200g flat , wide rice noodles (similar in shape t o t agliat elle)
250g chicken breast fillet
Flavourless oil, e.g. groundnut , for st ir-frying
200g t enderst em broccoli, cut in half lengt hways
About 2 t bsp soy sauce, t o t ast e
2 eggs, beat en
Wedges of lime, t o serve
1. If using dried noodles, soak t hem in warm wat er unt il soft ened, according t o packet
inst ruct ions. (This will t ake about 10 minut es, depending on t he brand.)
2. Meanwhile, but t erfly t he chicken fillet by slicing t hrough it horizont ally, but leaving it joined
down one side, t hen open it out . Flat t en it wit h a rolling pin, t hen cut it diagonally int o st rips.
3. Heat a wok over a high heat and add a dash of oil. Season t he chicken wit h salt and pepper,
and st ir-fry for about 3 minut es unt il golden brown all over but not quit e cooked t hrough.
4. Add t he garlic and st ir-fry for 30 seconds, t hen add t he broccoli and cont inue t o st ir-fry for a
few minut es unt il t ender; add t he soy sauce t o season. When t he broccoli is t ender, remove
t he cont ent s of t he wok and set t hem t o one side. Wipe out t he wok, add a dash of oil and
heat t hrough.
5. Drain t he soaked noodles. Add t he eggs t o t he hot wok, season and st ir over t he heat ,
allowing t he bot t om of t he egg t o cook. Add t he noodles and t oss well, breaking up t he egg as
you do so. Ret urn t he chicken and broccoli mixt ure t o t he wok and heat t hrough, st ir-frying
over a medium heat .
6. Serve t he noodles immediat ely wit h wedges of lime t o squeeze on t op.
HOW TO STIR-FRY
Tossing t he cont ent s of a pan wit h a smoot h flick of t he wrist doesnt just look good it
means you can st ay in cont rol and keep t hings cooking evenly. The secret is t o push t he pan
away from you and sharply pull it back. Push away, pull back, push away, pull back. It will t ake a
lit t le pract ice, but it s a skill definit ely wort h perfect ing.
HOME-MADE GNOCCHI
SERVES 4
This is anot her great way t o use up baked or boiled pot at oes. You can make gnocchi wit h just
flour and eggs, but pot at o gives it a beaut iful, light , fluffy t ext ure, while t he ricot t a adds a rich
creaminess. When you see what a beaut iful meal t his makes, you wont believe it all st art ed
wit h left over pot at oes.
2 large floury pot at oes
50g ricot t a cheese
90g plain flour
1 free-range egg, beat en
Sea salt and freshly ground whit e pepper
Grat ed Parmesan cheese, t o serve
FOR THE SAUCE
150g peas, podded if fresh, defrost ed if frozen
But t er
Zest of 1 lemon
2. Bake t he pot at oes in t heir skins for 11 hours unt il t ender t he whole way t hrough. Remove
t he flesh from t he skins (ideally while st ill warm) and mash unt il smoot h a pot at o ricer works
best here. Mix in t he ricot t a, a pinch of salt and whit e pepper and t he flour. Make a well in t he
middle, add t he beat en egg and begin t o combine t he mixt ure wit h floured hands. Work in t he
t hyme leaves and cont inue unt il a smoot h dough has formed. (Be careful not t o overwork it or
t he dough will end up t oo dense and wont expand when it goes int o t he wat er.)
3. Cut t he dough in half and shape each piece int o a long cigar shape about 1.5cm t hick. Using
t he back of a floured t able knife, cut each lengt h of dough int o 2cm pieces t o make pillows or
individual gnocchi. Gent ly press each one in t he cent re using your floured finger. The dent will
hold more sauce and allow t he gnocchi t o t ake on more flavour.
4. Bring a large pan of wat er t o t he boil. Add t he gnocchi, t ilt ing t he pan from side t o side briefly
t o st op t hem st icking t oget her, t hen simmer for about 12 minut es unt il t hey st art t o float .
Drain t he gnocchi and leave t hem t o st eam-dry for 12 minut es.
5. Meanwhile, st art t o make t he sauce. Heat a frying pan over a medium-high heat and add a
lit t le olive oil. Add t he gnocchi t o t he hot pan wit h a pinch of salt and black pepper and saut
for 12 minut es on each side unt il nicely coloured.
6. Add t he peas t o t he pan wit h a knob of but t er and t he t hyme leaves. Toss t o heat t hrough,
t hen add t he lemon zest . Serve wit h grat ed Parmesan cheese.
LEEK AND GRUYRE ROSTI
WITH FRIED EGGS
SERVES 2
Every good cook has a few ideas up t heir sleeve for using left over pot at o, and t his Alpine dish
is one of my favourit es. The Swiss will somet imes flavour t heir rost is wit h bacon, onion or even
apple, but I like t o add leeks, t o make a kind of cheesy, European t ake on bubble and squeak.
This would make a light supper wit h a green salad, or, moulded int o separat e pat t ies, goes
really well wit h roast chicken or grilled chops.
500g waxy pot at oes, e.g. Maris Piper or Charlot t e, of a similar size
3 t bsp olive oil, plus a lit t le ext ra for t he eggs
About 40g but t er
1 leek, t rimmed and finely shredded
60g Gruyre cheese, grat ed
2 eggs
Tarragon leaves, t o garnish
1. Parboil t he pot at oes in boiling salt ed wat er unt il t urning t ender but not soft (about 10
minut es if using 2 medium pot at oes). Remove, drain t horoughly and leave t o cool (you can
leave unt il complet ely cooked and chill overnight if you have t ime).
2. Meanwhile, heat a t ablespoon of t he oil and a knob of t he but t er in a pan. Saut t he leeks
for 34 minut es unt il soft but not coloured; season t o t ast e.
3. When t he pot at oes are cool enough t o handle, peel off t he skin and coarsely grat e t he flesh.
Pat dry wit h kit chen paper or a clean t ea t owel.
4. Gent ly mix t he grat ed pot at o wit h t he leeks and cheese. Season and mix again.
5. Heat a frying pan over a medium heat . Add anot her t ablespoon of t he oil and knob of t he
but t er. When t he but t er has melt ed, add t he pot at o mixt ure, shaking t he pan t o form an even
layer of pot at o. Leave t o cook for 10 minut es over a medium heat unt il golden brown (t urn t he
heat down if t he pot at o is browning t oo quickly).
6. Place a plat e over t he frying pan and invert bot h plat e and pan so t hat t he browned side of
t he rost i is facing upwards on t he plat e. Add t he final t ablespoon of oil and knob of but t er t o
t he pan and, once melt ed, slide t he rost i back int o t he pan, browned side up. Cont inue t o cook
for 10 minut es or unt il golden brown underneat h and cooked t hrough.
7. Meanwhile, fry t he eggs in a separat e oiled hot frying pan unt il cooked t o your liking.
8. Serve t he rost i wit h t he egg on t op and garnish wit h t arragon leaves.
HOW TO FRY WITH BUTTER
Frying wit h but t er gives a richer flavour, but you have t o be careful it doesnt burn. By adding a
splash of oil t o t he but t er as you cook t he pot at o cake, you raise t he but t ers burning point ,
meaning you can get a bet t er colour on t he pot at o wit hout compromising t he flavour.
SPAGHETTI WITH
CHILLI, SARDINES
AND OREGANO
SERVES 2
Never be sniffy about t inned fish as every st udent knows, it can be t he secret behind plent y
a quick and cheap meal. Ive used sardines in t his It alian st andby, but mackerel would work just
as well. The secret is t o get t he breadcrumbs beaut ifully golden, garlicky and crunchy so t hey
add a bit of t ext ure t o t he past a and fish.
Olive oil, for frying (or use t he oil from t he t inned sardines if you wish)
75g rough breadcrumbs, made from st ale bread
200g dried spaghet t i
1 120g t in good-qualit y boneless sardines in olive oil or wat er, drained
5 oregano sprigs, leaves only, or t sp dried oregano
50g rocket leaves
1. Heat a small frying pan over a medium heat . Add a glug of oil and, when hot , add half t he
chopped garlic along wit h t he breadcrumbs. Cook over a medium heat for about 3 minut es unt il
t he breadcrumbs are golden and t oast ed and t he garlic t ender and light ly browned. Season
wit h salt and pepper and t oss t oget her. Drain on kit chen paper.
3. Meanwhile, heat a frying pan over a medium heat and add a lit t le oil. Fry t he remaining garlic
and t he chilli for 12 minut es. Flake t he sardines int o small pieces, t hen t oss in t he pan wit h
t he garlic and chilli.
4. Drain t he cooked past a and add t o t he pan wit h t he sardines. Toss t o mix well. Add t he
oregano, t ast e and adjust t he seasoning as necessary.
5. When ready t o serve, st ir t he rocket leaves int o t he past a and divide bet ween serving
plat es. Garnish wit h t he crispy garlic breadcrumbs and serve immediat ely.
HOW TO USE UP STALE BREAD
While st ale bread is perfect for making breadcrumbs, it s also great for crout ons, and for making
t he classic Tuscan salad Panzanella, based on st ale bread, t omat oes, olives, peppers and
capers.
EASY FRAGRANT
FRIED RICE
SERVES 4
Most of us are familiar wit h egg-fried rice from our local Chinese, but here I t ake it one st ep
furt her by adding ext ra broccoli and greens t o make it t he original one-pot meal. Tast y, cheap
and nut rit ious, it s a great way of using up any left over rice.
Flavourless oil, e.g. groundnut , for frying
250g broccoli, cut int o small floret s
2 big handfuls of shredded greens, e.g. cabbage or spring greens
600g day-old cooked jasmine rice (from 200g uncooked weight )
2 eggs, beat en
2 spring onions, t rimmed and finely chopped
Fish sauce, t o t ast e
Pinch of cast er sugar, t o t ast e
TO SERVE
24 lime wedges
1. Heat a large, high-sided frying pan or wok over a medium heat . Add a glug of oil and fry t he
chilli, garlic and ginger for 30 seconds unt il aromat ic.
2. Add t he broccoli and greens t o t he pan wit h 12 t ablespoons of hot wat er t o creat e a bit of
st eam. Cook over a high heat for about a minut e unt il t he wat er has evaporat ed and t he
veget ables are becoming t ender.
3. Add t he rice and st ir-fry in t he pan, mixing it int o all t he ingredient s. Cook for 12 minut es
unt il t he rice is hot all t he way t hrough.
4. Make a well in t he middle of t he pan and add t he beat en eggs. Sprinkle over t he spring
onions and a couple of drops of fish sauce. Scramble t he egg over a medium-high heat unt il
cooked t hrough and separat ing int o clumps, t hen mix t he egg int o t he rice.
5. When t he eggs are cooked and mixed int o t he rice, t ast e t he dish. Add a pinch of sugar and
season wit h fish sauce.
6. Serve t he fried rice garnished wit h shredded spring onions, and lime wedges on t he side t o
squeeze over.
HOW TO ENSURE FLUFFY COOKED RICE
To get fluffy grains of rice t hat dont st ick t oget her, you should always wash rice in a sieve
under a running t ap t o rinse away t he st arch. Once cooked, if you are not serving it st raight
away, t he rice should be cooled down as quickly as possible by spreading it out on a t ray and
placing it in t he fridge. When st ir-frying rice, it is essent ial t o use cooked rice t hat has spent at
least a few hours in t he fridge, as t his helps t o dry it . Ot herwise you will end up wit h a mushy
mess.
CHEATS SOUFFL
WITH THREE CHEESES
SERVES 6
This is eit her a giant eggy pancake or a giant doughy omelet t e, depending how you look at it .
You can play wit h t he cheeses as much as you want , but I like t o keep t hings light by always
including cot t age cheese.
30g but t er, plus ext ra for greasing
50g plain flour
6 eggs, beat en
225ml whole milk (see t ip here)
200g cot t age cheese
350g Mont erey Jack cheese, grat ed (if unavailable, use Port Salut , mild Cheddar or Edam)
75g cream cheese
1. Preheat t he oven t o 180C/Gas 4. But t er a 20 30cm baking dish.
2. Mix t oget her t he flour, sugar and baking powder in a bowl. Make a well in t he middle and add
t he beat en eggs, milk and a pinch of salt and pepper. Beat well.
3. St ir in t he cot t age cheese and grat ed cheese. Dot small lumps of t he cream cheese and
but t er over t he egg mixt ure, t hen fold in wit h a spoon.
4. Pour int o t he greased baking dish and bake in t he preheat ed oven for 3040 minut es unt il
golden and set all t he way t hrough. This is ideal served wit h a light t omat o and wat ercress
salad.
HOW TO MAKE A LOWER-FAT BAKE
This bake is deliciously creamy, but if youre worried about t he fat cont ent , use semi-skimmed
milk and half-fat versions of t he cot t age cheese and cream cheese.
EASY ARANCINI
MAKES 18 ARANCINI
You might like t o double up t he ingredient s here, because t his is effect ively t wo meals in one.
You st art by making a wonderful, rich mushroom risot t o, which you could serve warm one night
(perhaps finished wit h a drizzle of olive oil), and t hen you could make t hese rice balls for t he
following evening. They are perfect wit h a glass of prosecco (or champagne if you havent
really got t he hang of t his economising business).
25g mixed dried wild mushrooms
But t er
1 small onion or banana shallot , peeled and finely diced
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
250g risot t o rice
500ml veget able or chicken st ock
25g Parmesan cheese, grat ed
9 mini mozzarella cheese balls or a large ball
12 eggs, beat en
About 100g plain flour
125g panko breadcrumbs or ordinary breadcrumbs
Lemon wedges, t o serve (opt ional)
1. Soak t he mushrooms in 250ml hot wat er for 20 minut es.
2. Heat a heavy-based, high-sided frying pan or saucepan over a medium heat . Add a
generous knob of but t er and a glug of oil and saut t he onion and garlic for about 5 minut es
unt il soft but not coloured.
3. Add t he rice and st ir vigorously around t he pan for a couple of minut es unt il t he grains st art
t o t urn slight ly t ranslucent at t he edges. Deglaze t he pan by pouring in t he wine and scraping
up t he bit s at t he bot t om. Bring t o t he boil, t hen lower t he heat and simmer for a minut e or t wo
t o burn off t he alcohol.
4. Meanwhile, heat t he st ock and add t he soaking liquor from t he mushrooms. Add a ladleful of
t he hot st ock mixt ure t o t he rice and st ir over a medium heat unt il absorbed, t hen add anot her
ladleful. Repeat unt il all t he st ock is used up or t he rice is t ender but st ill al dent e. Make sure t o
st ir regularly t o creat e a creamy risot t o. (This should t ake about 20 minut es.)
5. Chop t he rehydrat ed mushrooms int o small pieces and gent ly st ir int o t he cooked risot t o.
Add a knob of but t er and t he Parmesan, t hen st ir t o mix well. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning if
necessary, t hen leave t he risot t o t o cool (it will do t his more quickly if you spread it on t o a
baking t ray).
6. If using mini mozzarella balls, halve t hem; if using part of a large ball, cut it int o 1.52cm
cubes.
7. Lay out 3 plat es or shallow bowls. Put t he beat en egg in one, t he flour (seasoned wit h a
pinch of salt and pepper) in anot her and t he breadcrumbs in t he final one.
8. Once t he risot t o is cooled (it doesnt mat t er if it is st ill a lit t le warm, as long as it has st iffened
up a bit and is cool enough t o handle), roll it int o balls t he size of golf balls. Push a piece of
mozzarella int o t he middle of each ball, ensuring t hat t he cheese is complet ely enclosed. Leave
t o set in t he fridge for at least 30 minut es or overnight .
9. Heat a deep-fat fryer t o 170C or fill a large saucepan one-t hird full of flavourless oil and
heat unt il a cube of bread dropped int o t he hot oil sizzles and t urns golden brown in 30
seconds.
10. Dip a rice ball int o t he flour, shake off any excess, t hen dip int o t he egg, allowing any excess
t o drip off. Finish by coat ing complet ely in t he breadcrumbs. Repeat wit h t he remaining balls.
11. Deep-fry t he balls in bat ches for 23 minut es unt il golden brown all over. Remove wit h a
slot t ed spoon and drain on kit chen paper. Serve immediat ely while t he middles are st ill melt ing.
Drizzle wit h lemon juice if desired.
HOW TO SHALLOW-FRY ARANCINI
You can make arancini wit h left over risot t o, if you happen t o have some t o hand. They can
also be shallow-fried rat her t han deep-fried. Cook t hem over a medium heat and make sure
you t urn t hem frequent ly, bast ing wit h t he oil.
LAMB WITH
FRIED BREAD
SERVES 2
Lamb st eak is cut from t he upper part of t he leg, and t he bone running t hrough it is full of
flavoursome marrow. Because it s a cheap cut , it does need lot s of colour on it t o impart
flavour, so alt hough you can grill it , it will never be t he same as sealing it in a pan and bast ing it
t o keep it moist . Wit h t he anchovy dressing and crout ons, t he lamb just needs a green salad or
some French beans t o make it int o a complet e meal. Whod have t hought you could make
somet hing so delicious out of a cheap cut plus a st ale loaf of bread?
2 lamb leg st eaks
2 garlic cloves, skin on, bashed
200g crunchy whit e bread roll, cut int o chunks
34 t bsp milk
FOR THE ANCHOVY DRESSING
25g anchovies preserved in olive oil
1 t bsp capers
2 t bsp red wine vinegar, or t o t ast e
Ext ra virgin olive oil
Small bunch of parsley, leaves roughly chopped
1. Make small cut s int o each edge of t he lamb st eaks t o prevent t hem curling up while cooking.
Season well wit h salt and pepper (lamb needs a lot of pepper), pushing t he seasoning int o t he
meat . (This will be much easier if t he meat has been t aken out of t he fridge earlier and allowed
t o come up t o room t emperat ure.)
2. Heat a frying pan unt il hot and add a lit t le oil. When it s hot , add t he lamb and t he garlic.
Colour t he lamb for 23 minut es on each side unt il golden brown, bast ing wit h t he oil as you
cook and t urning t he garlic regularly t o ensure t hat it doesnt burn. Remove t he meat from t he
pan and leave t o rest , pouring over any pan juices and reserving t he garlic.
3. Meanwhile, season t he chunks of bread wit h salt and pepper. Soak in t he milk, t ossing t he
bread t o help it soak evenly. (The milk will give it a rich creamy t ext ure, almost like French
t oast .) Set aside.
4. Make t he dressing by placing t he reserved garlic in a mort ar wit h t he anchovies and capers,
grinding unt il smoot h. St ir in t he must ard, vinegar and enough oil t o bring it t o a t hick dressing
consist ency. Add t he parsley t o t he mort ar and mix well wit h a spoon. Tast e and adjust t he
seasoning as necessary.
5. Heat a lit t le olive oil in a clean frying pan over a medium heat . Squeeze out any excess milk
from t he bread, t hen fry it wit h some ext ra seasoning for 45 minut es, t urning it regularly unt il
it s golden on all sides. Remove and drain on kit chen paper.
6. To serve, spoon t he dressing ont o serving plat es, scat t er over half t he crout ons and place
t he lamb st eaks on t op. Finish wit h t he remaining crout ons and a lit t le ext ra dressing. Serve
immediat ely.
HOW TO FRY MEAT PROPERLY
When frying any meat , you want t o be able t o hear a sizzling sound as t he meat cooks t o
show t hat t he pan and oil are hot enough. If you cant hear it , t ake t he meat out and bring t he
oil up t o t emperat ure. Cut s such as rib-eye or leg st eak have a fat t y rind on t hem t hat needs
t o be cooked unt il golden. To do t his, always lay t he fat t y part away from you in t he pan and
t ilt t he pan so t hat t he rendered fat pools at t he bot t om edge and cooks as it does so.
SPICY SAUSAGE RICE
SERVES 4
This is like an old-fashioned jambalaya a mixt ure of rice, veget ables and meat , a bit like
risot t o but wit hout t he need for st irring. Sausages are cheap but packed wit h flavour, and
t aking t hem out of t he casing first flavours t he rice beaut ifully. You can use any sausage you
want chorizo, merguez, pork or beef, depending on how spicy you want it .
1 red onion, peeled and sliced
1 red pepper, deseeded and chopped
5 spiced sausages, e.g. It alian chilli
1 heaped t sp smoked paprika
200g long-grain rice
glass whit e wine
1 t omat o, chopped
Small bunch of flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped
1. Add a glug of oil t o a heavy-based casserole dish and fry t he onion for 5 minut es unt il soft
but not coloured. Add t he pepper and garlic and cook for 2 minut es. Slit t he sausage skins and
crumble t he sausage meat int o t he pan, t hen cook over a medium heat for 45 minut es unt il
coloured. Add t he smoked paprika and mix. Season t o t ast e.
2. Add t he rice and st ir well t o mix t horoughly and absorb t he flavour. Deglaze t he pan by
pouring in t he whit e wine and scraping any bit s st uck t o t he bot t om. Add t he st ock and bring
t o a simmer. Cook gent ly for 1520 minut es unt il t he rice is t ender and t he liquid almost
ent irely absorbed.
3. Remove from t he heat , gent ly fold in t he spring onions, t omat o and parsley and serve.
HOW TO FRY ONIONS
If frying onion, dont slice it t oo t hinly or it will burn before it has had a chance t o caramelise.
Never rush cooking an onion. Always give it 5 or 6 minut es in t he pan on it s own.
PORK AND PRAWN
MEATBALLS IN
AROMATIC BROTH
SERVES 2
Ive always been a fan of t hat surf n t urf combinat ion, seafood and meat , and t hese simple
pork and prawn meat balls in a comfort ing brot h make a great light lunch or supper dish. As
ever, it s import ant t o t ast e as you go along so t hat you can cont rol t he dept h of flavour of t he
st ock. The longer you cook it , t he more pot ent it will become.
100g raw prawns, peeled and deveined (see t ip here)
250g minced pork
1 t bsp finely chopped chives
1.5cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and diced
2 big handfuls of spinach
1 spring onion, t rimmed and finely sliced, t o garnish
FOR THE BROTH BASE
1 lit re chicken or fish st ock, home-made or from st ock cubes
2 whole st ar anise
12 t sp oyst er sauce, t o t ast e
12 t sp soy sauce, t o t ast e
2cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and chopped
1. Finely chop t he prawns unt il almost minced. Place in a bowl wit h t he pork, chives and ginger,
season wit h a good pinch of salt and pepper and mix unt il t he ingredient s are well combined
and st icking t oget her. Roll t he mixt ure int o small balls about 2.5cm wide. Transfer t o a plat e,
cover and chill unt il needed.
2. Meanwhile, make t he brot h base. Heat t he st ock in a saucepan, add t he ot her ingredient s
and mix well. Bring t o t he boil, lower t he heat and gent ly simmer for 10 minut es t o infuse, t hen
t ast e and adjust t he seasoning as necessary. (For a st rong brot h base, leave t he mixt ure t o
simmer for longer.)
3. Heat a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat and add a dash of oil. Fry t he pork and
prawn balls, t urning frequent ly, for 67 minut es unt il golden brown all over. Transfer int o t he
gent ly simmering pan of brot h and leave t o cook for 5 minut es unt il t he balls are cooked
t hrough. Add t he spinach and cook for 1 minut e unt il just wilt ed.
4. Tast e t he dish and adjust t he seasoning if necessary. Serve garnished wit h spring onions.
HOW TO PREPARE PRAWNS
First , t wist off t he head, t hen peel off all t he shell and pull off t he t ail. Wit h t he t ip of a sharp
knife, score t he prawn along t he back and lift out t he black vein. Rinse t he prepared prawns
before using.
CHICKPEA, CUMIN
AND SPINACH KOFTAS
WITH TAHINI DRESSING
MAKES ABOUT 20 KOFTAS
Chickpeas can be very bland on t heir own, but t hey t ake on spicy flavours really well. Because
of t heir t ext ure, t hey make a great subst it ut e for mince in a burger, say, or in t hese classic
koft as. It s import ant t o let t hem rest in t he fridge so t hat t hey hold t heir shape when you come
t o shallow-fry t hem.
200g spinach
1 t bsp cumin seeds
2 420g t ins chickpeas, drained
1 t sp paprika
2 t bsp chickpea (gram) flour, plus ext ra for dust ing
FOR THE DRESSING
12 t bsp t ahini past e, t o t ast e
Juice of lemon
Olive oil (opt ional)
1. Wash t he spinach, t hen place in a medium-hot oiled pan and st ir unt il wilt ed. Drain
t horoughly, squeezing out any excess wat er, t hen finely chop.
2. Toast t he cumin seeds in a dry hot pan for about 1 minut e unt il aromat ic and golden, t hen
grind in a mort ar wit h a pest le.
3. Place t he chickpeas, cumin and spices, along wit h a good pinch of salt and pepper, in a
blender and blit z t o a fine past e. (If t he mixt ure looks t oo dry t o hold t oget her, add 23
t ablespoons of wat er and blit z again.) Add t he spinach, sprinkle in t he flour and mix well t o
combine.
4. Dust your hands wit h flour, t hen t ake a t ablespoon of t he mixt ure and mould it int o an egg
shape. (If t his is t oo t ricky, simply roll it int o a ball.) Repeat unt il all t he mixt ure has been used,
t hen place on a plat e or t ray dust ed wit h flour. Chill for at least 1 hour unt il you are ready t o
cook.
5. Preheat t he oven t o 120C/Gas .
6. Heat some oil in a pan and shallow-fry t he koft as in bat ches over a medium heat for 23
minut es unt il golden brown on all sides and hot all t he way t hrough. Drain aft er frying, and keep
t hem warm in t he oven.
7. Combine all t he dressing ingredient s and season t o t ast e. Add a lit t le olive oil if you want a
looser consist ency.
8. Serve t he koft as warm wit h t he dressing on t he side.
CHARENTAIS MELON
AND CRME FRACHE
SERVES 4
When you buy fruit at t he peak of it s season, not only is it cheaper, but you dont have t o do
much t o it t o bring out it s best . This recipe shows how simple a fruit salad can be just melon,
sugar syrup and grapes. To check if a melon is ripe, sniff it near t he st alk. A ripe melon will smell
sweet . A smell of pear-drops means it is past it s best .
1 ripe Charent ais or Galia melon
1 t bsp lemon juice
200ml st ock syrup (see t ip here)
4 t bsp crme frache
A few small seedless grapes, halved
8 mint sprigs, t o garnish
1. Peel t he melon and discard t he seeds, t hen use a melon baller t o remove t he flesh. Place in a
food processor wit h t he lemon juice and st ock syrup, and blit z unt il smoot h. Chill for 34 hours.
2. Spoon t he soup int o 4 chilled glass bowls, t op wit h t he crme frache and grapes, garnish
wit h t he mint and serve.
HOW TO MAKE STOCK SYRUP
Boil 150ml wat er wit h 75g sugar for 5 minut es, t hen allow t o cool. You can add any flavours you
like during cooking a st rip of lemon rind, a knob of ginger or a st ar anise would all work
beaut ifully here.
BREAD AND BUTTER
PUDDING
SERVES 68
Bread and but t er pudding was absolut ely my favourit e when I was growing up. My mot her
always made it wit h cheap whit e sliced bread, but Ive experiment ed wit h all sort s since:
baguet t e, panet t one, brioche, croissant s. Pain au chocolat is my current favourit e, as t he
nugget s of chocolat e give it t hat ext ra dimension.
50g soft ened but t er, plus ext ra t o grease
23 t bsp apricot jam
6 pains au chocolat , cut int o slices 1cm t hick
12 t bsp ground cinnamon
4 t bsp demerara sugar
35g golden raisins
500ml whole milk
120ml double cream
6 eggs
2 vanilla pods, seeds scraped out
1. Preheat t he oven t o 180C/Gas 4. Light ly but t er an 18 23cm baking dish.
2. Heat t he jam in a pan over a low heat for a couple of minut es unt il melt ed. Remove and set
aside.
3. But t er t he slices of pain au chocolat on one side, place t hem in a large bowl and set aside.
Now sprinkle about 2 t easpoons of t he cinnamon int o t he but t ered serving dish along wit h 2
t ablespoons of t he sugar and all t he raisins. Pour over most of t he melt ed jam, reserving a
small amount for glazing at t he end.
4. Whisk t oget her t he milk, cream, eggs, vanilla seeds and 1 t easpoon of t he cinnamon and
pour half of t his mixt ure all over t he bread. When it has soaked in slight ly, arrange t he bread in
t he serving dish so t he pieces are overlapping. Cont inue layering t he bread unt il all t he pieces
have been used, t hen pour over t he rest of t he egg mixt ure and scat t er t he surface wit h t he
remaining sugar and a light dust ing of cinnamon.
5. Place in t he preheat ed oven and bake for 3540 minut es unt il golden.
6. To serve, brush t he pudding wit h t he reserved melt ed jam and serve immediat ely.
AN ORGANISED COOK IS A RELAXED COOK,
AND ONE OF THE BEST WAYS OF BEING
ORGANISED IS TO DO AS MUCH WORK IN
ADVANCE AS YOU CAN.
That doesnt just mean put t ing out your ingredient s before you st art cooking, or prepping
all your veget ables before you t urn on t he gas import ant as t hese t hings are
somet imes it also means fully preparing dishes ahead of t ime. Not only will t he meal be
less st ressful if you know one of t he courses is already t aken care of, but a lot of dishes
act ually t ast e bet t er if cooked in advance. It s what you might call a win-win, and it s why
forward planning is so import ant in t he kit chen.
Wit h some t hings you have no choice: t hey have t o be made beforehand anyway. A
jar of chut ney, for example, is a great way t o add flavour t o a simple supper, but youre
hardly going t o look in your fridge at 7 p.m., see some ham and t hink, I know, Ill make a
quick chut ney t o go wit h t hat . These are t hings t o make in bat ches and have sit t ing in
t he fridge or larder. Wit h all t hat vinegar and sugar, t hey can keep for years if you st erilise
t he jars properly somet hing our grandparent s knew only t oo well. (To st erilise jars, and
t heir lids, wash t hem t horoughly and allow t o dry on a clean t ea t owel. Preheat t he oven t o
it s lowest set t ing, t hen place t he jars and lids on a t ray and heat in t he oven for 30
minut es.)
The freezer can be anot her life-saver when it comes t o cooking in bulk. Weve
become a bit sniffy about frozen foods over t he past decade or so, I t hink, because weve
been encouraged t o see chilled foods as somehow being fresher. In fact frozen is oft en
best (Ill t ake frozen peas over t he so-called fresh pods you see in supermarket s anyt ime;
likewise a lot of fish). When it comes t o your own cooking, t heres no quest ion t hat making
in bulk and t hen freezing some of it makes sense. Ive always got t hings like chicken st ock,
t omat o sauce, and meat balls in handy sizes in t he freezer, ready t o be t aken out when
needed. Meat balls are a good example as t hey freeze really well and are so versat ile t hat
you can t ake t hem in any direct ion you like once t heyve defrost ed: in a Mexican soup, a
past a bake, a melt ed cheese sandwich
Ot her t hings are best served at room t emperat ure anyway, so it s a good idea t o make
t hem during a quiet t ime in t he day. That doesnt just mean cakes, biscuit s and t he like,
but also delicat ely flavoured t hings, such as quiches. When food is t oo hot we t end t o gulp
it down wit hout savouring it ; t oo cold and t he flavours almost hibernat e. That s why you
should always allow t hings youve kept in t he fridge, like cheese or cold meat s, t o come t o
room t emperat ure before you serve t hem, t o give t he flavours a chance t o wake up.
Similarly, t here is no shame in serving a main course like poached salmon at room
t emperat ure. Again, less st ress for t he cook.
Then t here are dishes where t he flavour genuinely improves wit h t ime. Marinades and
casseroles are t he most obvious examples. So much of cooking is about maximising
flavours, making t he ingredient s work for you, and t he easiest way t o do t hat is t o leave
t hem in cont act wit h each ot her for longer t o meld t oget her. If you marinat e a piece of
meat in herbs and wine for a couple of hours, it s going t o t ake on some of t he flavours
and become more t ender. Marinat e it for 24 hours, t hough, and your pat ience will be
rewarded a hundred t imes over. Make a casserole t he day before, and as t he meat sit s in
all t hose lovely juices, it almost act s like a sponge and soaks up all t hat flavour, making it
moist er and t ast ier when you gent ly reheat it t he next day. It s a t rick we use so oft en in
t he rest aurant s.
Im also including in t his chapt er a lot of slow-cooked dishes, such as Slow-roast ed Pork
Belly wit h Fennel and Slow-cooked Beef Short Ribs (see here and here). Youre not
necessarily making t hem in advance (alt hough wit h t he short ribs t heres no reason why
you shouldnt ), but what you are doing is put t ing in t he work much earlier on and t hen just
leaving t hem t o t heir own devices. Slow cooking works best on t he fat t ier, t ougher, less
fashionable cut s of meat , such as cheek, neck and belly. This is gut sy, robust cooking at
it s best . Ten minut es spent really caramelising t he meat , cooking out t he wine and
packing in t he flavours will result , a couple of hours lat er, in a melt ingly t ender and
flavoursome dish wort hy of any dinner t able. And t he great t hing is t hat because it s all
self-cont ained in one pan or casserole pot , youve got almost no washing up.
COOKING IN ADVANCE
Spicy chut ney
Blondies
SPICY MEATBALL SOUP
SERVES 46
This is real comfort food, meat balls in a richly spicy soup. It adds hugely t o t he flavour if you can
find chipot les in adobo jalapeo chillies in a smoky, sweet and sour pure but if you cant ,
you could t ry Aleppo chillies from Syria, which have a lovely smoky flavour, or regular chillies
wit h a t easpoon or t wo of smoked paprika.
1 onion, peeled and diced
1 t sp cumin seeds
1 t bsp chipot le chilli past e or chipot les in adobo
1 400g t in chopped t omat oes
1 lit re beef or chicken st ock
1 340g t in sweet corn, drained
2 courget t es, t rimmed and diced int o 2cm pieces
FOR THE MEATBALLS
500g minced beef
34 t bsp milk
TO SERVE
1 large handful of t ort illa chips, roughly chopped
2 t bsp jalapeo peppers, deseeded and chopped
1. First prepare t he meat balls. Saut t he onion and garlic wit h seasoning in a hot oiled frying
pan for about 5 minut es unt il soft and light ly coloured, adding t he chilli flakes aft er a minut e or
t wo. Place t he mince in a large bowl and add seasoning. Put t he breadcrumbs in a separat e
bowl and moist en wit h t he milk. Add seasoning, t hen st ir t he breadcrumbs and onion mixt ure
int o t he mince and combine well. Wit h wet hands, shape t he mince mixt ure int o balls just
smaller t han a golf ball (about 3cm wide). Transfer t o a light ly greased plat e or t ray and chill for
30 minut es unt il firm.
2. Heat a lit t le oil in a large saucepan and saut t he onion and garlic for t he soup base wit h a
pinch of salt and pepper for 45 minut es unt il soft ened. Add t he cumin seeds and meat balls
and cook over a high heat t o t oast t he cumin seeds and colour t he meat balls on all sides.
3. Add t he chipot le chilli past e and st ir over a high heat . Add t he t inned t omat oes, oregano and
st ock, bring t o t he boil, t hen lower t he heat . Season and gent ly simmer for 20 minut es unt il t he
meat balls are cooked t hrough and t he soup has t hickened a lit t le. (This can be done in
advance, t hen left overnight for t he flavours t o develop if you prefer.)
4. Before serving, add t he sweet corn and courget t es and cook for 34 minut es unt il bot h are
t ender. Serve t he soup garnished wit h crushed t ort illa chips, coriander and jalapeo peppers.
HOW TO FREEZE MEATBALLS
The meat balls above freeze brilliant ly and can be used in many different ways. Just remember
t o let t he onion and garlic mixt ure cool complet ely before combining it wit h t he mince and
rolling int o balls. Freeze st raight away and allow t o defrost complet ely before cooking.
BEEF MEATBALLS
WITH ORECCHIETTE,
KALE AND PINE NUTS
SERVES 4
Orecchiet t e means lit t le ears, and refers t o t he ear-shaped past a t radit ionally used in a
Puglian dish of broccoli, anchovy and chilli. This dish is similar in feel, wit h kale inst ead of
broccoli, and t he meat balls replacing t he anchovy and chilli.
500g dried orecchiet t e past a
200g kale or cavolo nero, shredded
4 t bsp pine nut s, t oast ed
Freshly grat ed Parmesan cheese, t o t ast e
FOR THE MEATBALLS
500g minced beef
34 t bsp milk
int o t he mince and combine well. Wit h wet hands, shape t he mince mixt ure int o small balls
about 2cm wide. Transfer t o a light ly greased plat e or t ray and chill for 30 minut es unt il firm.
3. Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan over a medium heat and add a lit t le olive oil. Brown t he
meat balls for 6 minut es unt il coloured on all sides. Add t he garlic t o t he pan and cook for 2
minut es unt il t ender, t hen add t he kale and season. Sweat t he kale over a medium heat for 5
minut es wit h a couple of t ablespoons of t he cooking wat er from t he past a. Tast e and adjust
t he seasoning as necessary, t hen st ir in t he pine nut s.
4. Drain t he past a, reserving a few t ablespoons of cooking wat er. Tip t he past a int o t he pan
wit h t he meat balls and st ir over a medium-low heat unt il well mixed. Add a good handful of
finely grat ed Parmesan, and mix well wit h a lit t le cooking wat er t o help coat t he past a. Tast e
and adjust t he seasoning as necessary.
5. Serve garnished wit h anot her grat ing of Parmesan.
HOW TO SWEAT VEGETABLES
The aim of sweat ing veget ables is t o soft en t hem wit hout colouring. St art by heat ing a heavy-
based pan over a medium heat . When hot , add a lit t le oil (or wat er, as specified opposit e) and
your veget able, and fry, st irring frequent ly, for 510 minut es. It is import ant t hat t he veg
doesnt brown or it will develop a bit t er flavour.
MEATBALLS IN FRAGRANT
COCONUT BROTH
SERVES 24
To me, a meat ball is all about t he soft ness and t ext ure and t he way it melt s in your mout h.
Adding milk t o t he breadcrumbs light ens t he meat balls and means t hat you shouldnt need t o
bind t hem wit h eggs. Dont make t hem t oo small or t heyll dry out about golf ball size is just
right . This is a classic way of making meat balls, but cooking t hem in t his beaut iful aromat ic
brot h means t hey really soak up t he fresh, spicy flavours. Asian cuisine uses coconut milk t o
enrich a sauce, in much t he same way as classic French cooking uses cream, but of course it
isnt as heavy.
4 cardamom pods, light ly crushed
12 t sp dried chilli flakes, t o t ast e
2 lemongrass st alks, t rimmed, bashed and cut int o bat ons
5cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and sliced
Zest and juice of 1 lime
FOR THE MEATBALLS
500g minced beef
34 t bsp milk
int o t he mince and combine well. Wit h wet hands, shape t he mince mixt ure int o balls about t he
size of a golf ball. Transfer t o a light ly greased plat e or t ray and chill for 30 minut es unt il firm.
2. Brown t he meat balls in a cleaned oiled pan for 45 minut es, t urning frequent ly unt il nicely
coloured on all sides.
3. Add t he coriander seeds, cardamom, t urmeric, cinnamon, chilli flakes, lemongrass and ginger.
Heat t hrough, st irring, unt il aromat ic, t hen add t he st ock and coconut milk and bring t o a gent le
simmer. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning as necessary. Simmer for 812 minut es unt il t he
sauce is flavourful and t hickened and t he meat balls are cooked t hrough.
4. Add t he lime zest and juice and serve hot .
HOW TO STORE COCONUT MILK
Left over coconut milk can be st ored in t he fridge for about five days before it sours. If you dont
plan t o use it t hat quickly, simply freeze it in ice-cube t rays or small plast ic pot s. Aft er freezing,
t he milk will look curdled, but t he flavour will be fine.
BEEF MEATBALL SANDWICH
WITH MELTING MOZZARELLA
AND TOMATO SALSA
SERVES 4
A simple variat ion on t he beef burger, wit h mozzarella inst ead of Swiss cheese and a t omat o,
onion and coriander salsa as a fresher t ake on ket chup.
500g minced beef
34 t bsp milk
4 submarine or hot dog rolls
2 balls of mozzarella cheese, t orn
FOR THE SALSA
3 t omat oes, finely chopped
red onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 t sp whit e wine vinegar
Pinch of sugar
int o t he mince and combine well. Wit h wet hands, shape t he mince mixt ure int o large balls
about 4cm wide. Transfer t o a light ly greased plat e or t ray and chill for 30 minut es unt il firm.
2. Put a lit t le oil in a frying pan and cook t he meat balls over a medium-low heat wit h a dash of
oil for about 10 minut es unt il coloured on t he out side and cooked all t he way t hrough. Set
aside t o rest .
3. Meanwhile, combine all t he salsa ingredient s and mix well. Leave t o one side.
4. Heat a grill unt il medium hot . Slice t he bread rolls in half and t oast t he insides for a couple of
minut es unt il golden. Remove from t he grill and sit t he meat balls on half t he sliced rolls,
pressing t hem down int o t he bread. Spoon over any cooking juices from t he meat ball pan. Top
t he meat balls wit h mozzarella and place under t he grill t o melt t he cheese. Once melt ed,
spoon t he salsa on t op and sandwich t oget her wit h t he remaining halves of t he t oast ed rolls.
5. Serve while st ill warm wit h any ext ra salsa on t he side.
SPICY CHUTNEY
MAKES 750ML
Spicing is t he light and shade of a good chut ney, t he element t hat gives it dept h and
personalit y, but dont go overboard on t he chillies as t he heat will increase t he longer you keep
it . Tamarind is a t ropical fruit t hat t ast es a lit t le like sour dat es and is used in veget able curries
and chut neys. Youll find it in past e form in most supermarket s.
6 dried curry leaves
1 t sp cumin seeds
3 dried red chillies
1 onion, peeled and grat ed
46 t bsp t amarind past e or wat ered-down t amarind block (see t ip here)
4 heaped t bsp desiccat ed coconut
2 large carrot s, peeled and coarsely grat ed
1. Toast t he curry leaves, cumin, must ard and coriander seeds in a dry pan over a low heat for
about 2 minut es unt il aromat ic (be careful not t o burn t hem). Add a pinch of salt and t he dried
chillies. Add a lit t le oil, t hen sweat t he onion in it for 2 minut es. Add t he garlic and cook over a
low heat for 12 minut es unt il soft .
2. Add t he t amarind past e and sugar and cook over a medium heat for about 2 minut es unt il
t he sugar has dissolved. St ir in t he coconut .
3. Add t he carrot s and mix well. Bring t o t he boil, t hen lower t he heat and simmer gent ly for 56
minut es, adding 23 t ablespoons of wat er if necessary t o loosen. Tast e and adjust t he
seasoning and sweet ness as needed. Remove from t he heat .
4. Pour t he chut ney int o st erilised jars (see here) st raight away and seal. You can eat t his
chut ney immediat ely or st ore it in t he fridge for up t o a mont h. Serve wit h cold meat s or
cheese.
HOW TO PREPARE TAMARIND
To wat er down a block of t amarind, soak it in a lit t le hot wat er, remove t he seeds, and mash it
well t o creat e a t hick juice.
SLOW-COOKED
AUBERGINE
SERVES 46 AS A STARTER
This veget able st ew is such a simple combinat ion of ingredient s, but t hey undergo t his
amazing t ransformat ion during cooking t o become more t han t he sum of t heir part s. Anot her
dish t hat just get s bet t er and bet t er t he longer you allow t he flavours t o mingle.
2 aubergines, t rimmed and cut int o 3cm chunks
3 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 red onion, peeled and diced
1 400g t in but t er beans, drained and rinsed
2 t bsp pomegranat e molasses (see here)
TO SERVE
1 loaf of crust y whit e bread, e.g. sourdough or pain de campagne
Small bunch of mint , leaves roughly chopped
1. Heat a heavy-based casserole dish over a high heat . Add a glug of oil and fry t he aubergine
for 34 minut es unt il coloured on all sides. Add t he garlic and onion and fry for anot her 5
minut es unt il t he onion is t ender.
2. St ir in t he but t er beans and pomegranat e molasses wit h a generous pinch of salt and
grinding of pepper. Add t he t omat oes and sugar. Bring t o t he boil, t hen lower t he heat and
simmer, uncovered, for 4045 minut es unt il t he aubergine is t ender and collapsed and t he
st ew reduced and flavoursome. (If you find t he mixt ure is drying out t oo much, add a couple of
t ablespoons of wat er.)
3. To serve, slice t he bread and t oast on each side unt il golden. St ir t he mint t hrough t he
aubergine, spoon ont o t he slices of t oast and scat t er over t he crumbled fet a. Serve warm.
HOW TO SALT AUBERGINES
Alt hough it s not essent ial t o salt aubergine before you fry it , doing so draws out t he moist ure
and makes it absorb less oil. Simply chop or dice t he aubergine as required, place in a colander
and sprinkle wit h about 1 t easpoon of salt . Leave for 30 minut es, t hen rinse well, pat dry on
kit chen paper and cook as you wish.
SLOW-ROASTED
PORK BELLY
WITH FENNEL
SERVES 4
Pork is a very sweet meat , so it s nice t o add t he vibrant aniseed flavour of fennel. Youve got
t o t ake your t ime cooking pork belly, making sure t he crackling on t op is beaut ifully roast ed
while t he meat beneat h braises gent ly in t he pans juices. Cut t ing diamonds in t he skin allows
t he seasoning t o really penet rat e, and alt hough it may seem odd, adding more salt aft er youve
seared it really helps t he skin t o crisp up. Serve wit h dauphinoise pot at oes and broccoli.
1kg pork belly
Sea salt and black pepper
1 fennel bulb, t rimmed and roughly sliced
4 fresh bay leaves
3 garlic cloves, peeled and bashed
1 t sp cardamom pods, bashed
4 st ar anise
1 t bsp fennel seeds
Olive oil
325ml whit e wine
500750ml chicken st ock (depending on t he size of your pan)
1 t bsp wholegrain must ard
2. Score t he pork belly skin diagonally in a diamond pat t ern at 1 cm int ervals. Season
generously wit h salt and pepper, rubbing it well int o t he skin.
3. Put t he fennel, bay leaves, garlic, cardamom, st ar anise and half t he fennel seeds int o a hot
roast ing t ray on t he hob wit h a lit t le oil and heat for about 2 minut es unt il aromat ic. Push t o t he
side of t he t ray, t hen add t he pork, skin side down, and cook for at least 5 minut es unt il t urning
golden brown. Turn t he pork over, season t he skin again wit h salt and sprinkle wit h t he
remaining fennel seeds. Pour in t he wine t o deglaze t he pan, scraping up t he bit s from t he
bot t om (be careful not t o get t he skin of t he pork wet ). Bring t o t he boil, t hen pour in enough
st ock t o come up t o t he layer of fat just below t he skin and allow t o boil again.
4. Transfer t he t ray t o t he preheat ed oven and cook for 2 hours.
5. Transfer t he meat t o a warm plat e and set aside t o rest . Meanwhile, spoon off any excess
fat in t he roast ing t ray or drag a slice of bread along t he surface of t he cooking juices t o absorb
it . Heat t he t ray on t he hob, adding t he must ard. Mix in wit h a whisk, t hen t ast e and adjust t he
flavours as necessary. Remove t he st ar anise and cardamom pods and pour t he sauce int o a
jug. Serve t he rest ed pork wit h t he sauce alongside.
HOW TO SEASON PORK SKIN
If you slight ly bend t he pork as you are rubbing in t he salt and fennel seeds, it will open up t he
diamond incisions in t he rind, making it easier for t he flavours t o penet rat e.
CORIANDER, GINGER AND
CHILLI BUTTER CHICKEN
SERVES 4
But t er Chicken, or Murgh Makhani, is t he dish I always order in Indian rest aurant s. I had an
amazing version at Mot i Mahal rest aurant in Delhi, where it originat ed, and t his is my t ake on it .
St art marinat ing t he meat t he night before t o allow t he flavours t o develop.
500g boneless, skinless chicken t highs, cut int o 4cm pieces
Olive oil or ghee, for frying
1 t sp garam masala
Pinch of chilli powder, or t o t ast e (opt ional)
2 t bsp t omat o pure
25g but t er
Small bunch of fresh coriander, leaves roughly chopped, t o garnish
FOR THE MARINADE
Juice of lemon
1 t sp cumin seeds
1. Put t he garlic, ginger, chilli and lemon juice from t he marinade ingredient s in a bowl. Toss t he
chicken in t he mixt ure, t hen cover and set aside.
2. Cont inue preparing t he marinade. Toast t he coriander and cumin seeds in a dry pan for
about 1 minut e unt il aromat ic and t he coriander seeds are popping. Grind t o a powder, t hen
mix wit h t he t urmeric, yoghurt and a good pinch of salt and pepper.
3. Pour t he yoghurt mixt ure over t he chicken. Mix well, cover and leave t o marinat e for at least
2 hours (or, ideally, overnight if you have t ime).
4. When ready t o cook t he chicken, heat a large, heavy-based pan over a medium heat and
add a lit t le olive oil or ghee. When t he pan is hot , saut t he onion wit h a pinch of salt for 5
minut es. Add t he garlic and cook unt il light ly golden before adding t he ginger and cooking for a
furt her minut e.
5. Add t he ground coriander, garam masala, t urmeric and chilli powder (if using) and st ir int o t he
onions over a medium heat unt il aromat ic. Add t he t omat o pure and st ir for 30 seconds. Add
t he but t er and allow t o melt before st irring it t hrough.
6. Remove t he chicken from t he marinade and wipe off any excess. Add t he chicken pieces t o
t he pan and cook for 10 minut es, t urning now and again, unt il cooked t hrough. Lower t he heat ,
add t he remaining marinade t o t he pan and cook gent ly for 5 minut es unt il piping hot (be
careful not t o let t he sauce boil as t his will cause it t o split ). Tast e and adjust t he seasoning as
necessary. Serve garnished wit h chopped coriander leaves.
MOROCCAN LAMB
WITH SWEET POTATO
AND RAISINS
SERVES 46
Morocco is famed for it s slow-cooked t agines, or st ews, made in a dist inct ively shaped
eart henware pot . This is my t ake on t hem, made in a regular casserole dish, but including all
t he sweet spices youd expect . Make sure you get plent y of colour ont o t he lamb as t his is
what gives t he st ock it s wonderful dept h of flavour. The dish will be even bet t er if made a day
in advance and reheat ed.
750g boneless leg or shoulder of lamb, cut int o 4cm chunks
2 red onions, peeled and cut int o eight hs
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
t sp ground ginger
Pinch of saffron st rands
t sp cumin seeds
t sp paprika
t sp fennel seeds
1 cinnamon st ick
1 bay leaf
375g sweet pot at o, peeled and cut int o 3cm chunks
2 t bsp raisins
500ml chicken or lamb st ock
Chopped parsley, t o garnish
1. Heat a large, heavy-based casserole dish over a high heat . Add a lit t le oil and brown t he
lamb pieces in bat ches for about 5 minut es unt il coloured all over. Remove and set aside.
2. Add a lit t le fresh oil t o t he pan, t hen add t he onions and a good pinch of salt and pepper. Fry
for 45 minut es unt il light ly coloured, t hen add t he garlic, ground ginger, saffron, ground
coriander, cumin seeds, paprika, fennel seeds, cinnamon st ick and bay leaf. St ir for 2 minut es
unt il aromat ic.
3. Add t he t omat o pure and st ir for 30 seconds, t hen add t he sweet pot at o, coat ing well wit h
t he mixt ure in t he pan. Ret urn t he lamb, plus any rest ing juices, t o t he pan along wit h t he
raisins and st ock. Bring t he st ock t o t he boil, scraping up any bit s st uck t o t he bot t om of t he
casserole dish.
4. Lower t he heat and simmer really gent ly, uncovered, for 12 hours, st irring occasionally, unt il
t he lamb is really t ender. If t he liquid is reducing t oo much, cover t he casserole dish or add a
cupful of wat er. This dish will be delicious if left overnight once cooked and gent ly reheat ed so
t hat t he flavours have even longer t o develop.
5. Serve garnished wit h chopped parsley.
SLOW-COOKED BEEF WITH
ORANGE GREMOLATA
SERVES 46
Veal shin is t he classic cut used in t he It alian dish Osso Bucco, but cheaper beef shin is just as
good. The bone marrow gives t he st ock it s melt ing richness, so do t ry t o get shin from t he
upper end wit h a larger bone. For best result s, make t he day before and gent ly reheat from
room t emperat ure.
2 pieces of beef shin, about 450g each
1 carrot , peeled and diced
2 celery st icks, t rimmed and diced
2cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
200g small shallot s or pearl onions, left whole but peeled and t rimmed
Juice of 1 orange
1 glass of dry whit e wine
FOR THE SWEET POTATO MASH
750g sweet pot at oes, peeled and chopped
Olive oil
FOR THE ORANGE GREMOLATA
1 orange, zest only
1 garlic clove, peeled and very finely chopped
2 t bsp olive oil (opt ional)
1. Heat a heavy-based casserole dish over a high heat . Add a glug of oil and brown t he beef
shin in bat ches for about 5 minut es unt il well coloured on all sides. Remove and leave t o one
side.
2. Add a dash of oil t o t he casserole dish if necessary and saut t he carrot , celery, ginger, garlic
and shallot s for 5 minut es unt il light ly coloured. Add t he t omat o pure and cook for 12
minut es. Put t he beef back int o t he pan, t hen pour in t he orange juice and wine, st irring and
scraping up all t he bit s at t he bot t om. Bring t o t he boil, t hen lower t he heat and simmer for 2
minut es unt il t he alcohol has burnt off.
3. Add t he st ock, season and bring t o t he boil. Lower t he heat , cover and simmer gent ly for 1
hour, t hen remove t he lid and cont inue t o cook for a furt her 2030 minut es unt il t he beef is
complet ely t ender but not falling apart .
4. Meanwhile, make t he mash. Boil t he sweet pot at oes in boiling salt ed wat er for 15 minut es
unt il t ender. Drain well and allow t hem t o st eam-dry for 5 minut es. Mash t he pot at oes wit h a
generous pinch of salt and pepper and a drizzle of olive oil unt il smoot h. Tast e and adjust t he
seasoning as necessary.
5. To make t he gremolat a, mix t oget her t he orange zest , parsley and garlic, adding t he olive oil,
if liked, unt il a t hick spooning consist ency is reached. Tast e and season wit h salt and pepper.
6. Serve t he beef shins t opped wit h t he gremolat a and serve immediat ely wit h t he sweet
pot at o mash alongside.
SLOW-COOKED
BEEF SHORT RIBS
SERVES 2
Short ribs are going t hrough a real renaissance, just like lamb shanks and pork cheeks have
before t hem. They are a cheap cut full of fat and sinew but t hat disappears as you slowly cook
t hem in red wine and st ock. Roast ing t he t omat o pure or cooking it out , as we say in
kit chens rounds off t he t art not es you somet imes get in t omat oes.
6 t hick-cut meat y beef short ribs
1 large head of garlic, cut in half horizont ally
1 heaped t bsp t omat o pure
1 lit re beef st ock
150g pancet t a lardons
250g small chest nut mushrooms, t rimmed and halved
Chopped flat leaf parsley, t o garnish
2. Heat a deep-sided roast ing t ray on t he hob and add a glug of olive oil. Season t he short ribs
t horoughly, t hen fry for 1015 minut es t o brown really well on all sides.
3. Add t he halved garlic head, cut side down, pushing it t o t he bot t om of t he pan. Add t he
t omat o pure and heat for a minut e or t wo t o cook it out . Pour in t he wine t o deglaze t he pan,
scraping up t he bit s at t he bot t om. Bring t o t he boil and cook for 1015 minut es unt il t he liquid
is reduced by half, t hen add st ock t o nearly cover t he ribs (youll need less st ock if your roast ing
t ray isnt very large). Bring t o t he boil again, bast ing t he ribs wit h t he juices.
4. Cover t he roast ing t ray wit h foil and cook in t he preheat ed oven for 34 hours, bast ing now
and t hen unt il t he meat is t ender and falling away from t he bone.
5. About 10 minut es before t he short ribs are ready t o come out , fry t he pancet t a for 23
minut es unt il crisp and golden. Add t he mushrooms and cook for 45 minut es unt il t ender.
Drain off any excess fat .
6. When t he short ribs are ready, remove from t he oven and t ransfer t o a serving dish. Squeeze
t he garlic cloves out of t heir skins and pass t hrough a sieve. Spoon off any excess fat from t he
beef cooking liquid, t hen st rain it t hrough t he sieve and mix wit h t he garlic. (If t he sauce is t oo
t hin, reduce t he cooking liquid by heat ing for 1015 minut es more aft er st raining.)
7. Serve t he short ribs t opped wit h t he hot pancet t a and mushrooms and t he sauce poured
around. Garnish wit h chopped flat leaf parsley.
BLONDIES
MAKES 9 SQUARES
As t he name suggest s, blondies are a whit e chocolat e version of brownies. I find t hem a bit
more subt le in flavour and t hey make a great end t o a meal, especially wit h a few chewy
cranberries t hrown in for t ext ure.
230g but t er, plus ext ra for greasing
340g dark brown sugar
Pinch of salt
1 t sp vanilla ext ract
280g plain flour
t sp bicarbonat e of soda
240g whit e chocolat e, chopped int o small chunks
4 t bsp dried cranberries
1. Preheat t he oven t o 180C/Gas 4. Light ly but t er a 23cm square cake t in and line wit h
greaseproof paper.
2. Melt t he but t er in a saucepan and whisk in t he sugar and salt . (A good whisk now will make
t he mixt ure slight ly light er and fluffier.) Add t he vanilla ext ract and whisk again. Remove from
t he heat .
3. Add t he eggs t o t he but t er mixt ure and st ir well. Sift t he flour, bicarbonat e of soda and
baking powder int o a large bowl, t hen whisk in t he egg and but t er mixt ure a lit t le at a t ime. (It s
import ant t o do t his in st ages so t hat you dont get any lumps.)
4. Leave t he mixt ure t o cool slight ly, t hen fold in t he chocolat e chunks and t he cranberries. (If
t he mixt ure is t oo hot , t he chocolat e will melt .)
5. Spoon int o t he prepared cake t in and spread out evenly. Bake for 3540 minut es unt il t he
out er edges are firm and t he middle st ill a lit t le soft .
6. Leave t o cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minut es, t hen cut int o squares before serving.
Once cooled, t he blondies will keep in an airt ight cont ainer for up t o a week.
HOW TO BAKE WITHOUT STICKING
Lining t he t in wit h greaseproof paper act s as an insurance policy t o st op t he blondies from
st icking and means you can have a higher rat io of chocolat e in t he mix. Remember t o smoot h
out t he t op of t he blondies when you fill t he t in so t hat t hey cook evenly.
CARAMELISED FIGS
WITH RICOTTA
SERVES 4
Slow cooking benefit s not only meat : it allows fruit t o develop it s nat ural sugars t oo. The figs
here are bast ed in a balsamic vinegar caramel and t hen roast ed gent ly in t he oven. True, were
t alking about 15 minut es here, not several hours, but it is st ill enough t o t ransform t he fruit .
Serve wit h ricot t a t o keep t he dish light .
4 woody rosemary sprigs
12 fresh figs
4 t bsp icing sugar
3 t bp balsamic vinegar
30g but t er, cubed
TO SERVE
150g200g ricot t a cheese
4 t bsp t oast ed chopped almonds
Zest of 1 lemon
2. Remove t he leaves from all but one end of each rosemary sprig and t rim a point at t he ot her.
Use t he point ed end t o pierce t hrough t he figs, insert ing horizont ally t hrough t heir t ops, about
1cm below t he st alk. Thread 3 figs ont o each sprig.
3. Place t he t hreaded figs on a plat e and dust generously wit h icing sugar. Drizzle wit h 1
t ablespoon of t he balsamic vinegar.
4. Heat an ovenproof frying pan on t he hob and add t he cast er sugar in an even layer. Cook for
34 minut es unt il t he sugar has complet ely melt ed and is st art ing t o caramelise. As soon as it
begins t o t ake on a dark golden colour, remove it from t he heat and whisk in t he but t er. Add
t he remaining balsamic vinegar and 2 t ablespoons of wat er and whisk t o combine.
5. Add t he figs t o t he pan and bast e wit h t he caramel unt il well coat ed. Place t he figs in t he
preheat ed oven and cook for 1015 minut es, bast ing now and again as t hey cook.
6. Place t he figs on a serving plat e, spooning over t he caramel from t he pan. Serve immediat ely
wit h a spoonful of ricot t a, t oast ed almonds and a sprinkling of lemon zest .
MUCH AS I LOVE BIG-OCCASION COOKING
THE SOCIABILITY, THE CHANCE TO SHOW OFF A BIT
THE REALITY OF DAY-TO-DAY LIFE ISNT LIKE THAT.
Much more oft en it s about coming back lat e from work and needing t o get dinner on t he
t able quickly, and t hat calls for a whole different set of skills. It s easy t o be mot ivat ed
when youve got t he promise of an appreciat ive audience who will make all t he right
noises, but when you are cooking just for yourself or perhaps a part ner, you can quickly
lose heart and see t he whole process as a chore. That s when t he t empt at ion t o fall back
on ready-meals is t he st rongest .
Dont be ashamed if t hat sounds like you Ill let you int o every chefs dirt y lit t le
secret . When t hey get home aft er evening service, what is t he t hing t hey are most likely t o
whip up before going t o bed? A home-made burger? A cheese souffl? I wish. No. Baked
beans on t oast . Half of t hem dont even bot her warming t hem up, t hey just spoon t hem
out of t he t in. I know, I know: it s lat e, t heyve spent all day in t he kit chen and t hey just
want t o collapse int o bed. But it does show t hat it isnt skill or know-how t hat get s in t he
way of proper cooking, it s convenience.
So t he solut ion t o cooking for small numbers is t o make it as easy as possible so simple,
in fact , t hat picking up t he phone and wait ing for t he pizza boy t o deliver will seem like t oo
much of a hassle in comparison. That s my aim here. We t hink of fast food as being what
comes in cardboard boxes from t he t akeaway, but in t his chapt er youll find a bolognese
sauce t hat will be ready before t he past as even had t ime t o boil (see here), fishcakes you
can assemble from a few t ins and jars (see here), and a chilli hot dog t hat s in anot her
league t o anyt hing youve had before (see here). When everyday food is t his fast and
t ast es t his good, it soon becomes a pleasure. If you want cooking t o be hassle-free, youve
got t o st art at first principles, and make t he shopping as uncomplicat ed as possible.
Dishes should focus around t wo or t hree key flavours on t he plat e, maximum, as in
Mushroom and Leek Past a (see here). Any more and youre not only making ext ra work for
yourself but youll be confusing your palat e.
In my years of filming Kit chen Night mares, in which I go around rest aurant s t rying t o
sort out failing businesses, t his has been by far t he most common mist ake. Young chefs,
in part icular, feel t hey have t o put t heir all int o every plat e, and t end t o overcomplicat e
t heir cooking t o show what accomplished cooks t hey are. In fact t he opposit e is t rue. The
best cooks know not t o hide behind lot s of compet ing flavours and are happy t o let t heir
main ingredient s shine. Mushroom and leek past a, for example, should t ast e of
mushrooms and leeks. You might like t o add some t arragon, perhaps, which marries t he
t wo ingredient s t oget her, or some bacon, but t here really is no need t o st art t hrowing in
lot s of ot her st rong flavours. It doesnt need t hem. Respect your main ingredient s and t hey
wont let you down.
A happy side effect of t his is t hat t he shopping is much easier t oo even more so if
you keep a well-st ocked st ore cupboard. Think of t his as t he springboard for your cooking,
so you need only pick up a couple of main ingredient s some sausages, say, or some
eggs t o t hen t ake your cooking in whichever direct ion you choose when you get home.
BASICS
Ive list ed opposit e t he kind of basics you might like t o keep. The list by no means
exhaust ive, but t he main t hing is t o build it up as you go. I wouldnt recommend you go out
and buy everyt hing in one massive shop. Youll soon see t he kind of t hings t hat crop up in
t he recipes you like, and before you know it youll have built up an arsenal of ingredient s
t hat arm you for happy evenings of cooking.
BEANS AND PULSES
I use a lot of haricot beans, cannellini beans, chickpeas and lent ils. It is always bet t er t o
soak and cook your beans from dried as t he flavour and t ext ure will be bet t er (you can add
flavourings, such as t hyme, bay and smoked bacon, t o t he wat er when you boil t hem, but
never salt as t his will make t heir skins t ough). That said, t inned beans and pulses are very
useful st andbys, especially when you are cooking on t he spur of t he moment .
CHOCOLATE
By using good-qualit y dark chocolat e, wit h a minimum of 70 per cent cocoa solids, you
have much more cont rol as you can always let it down wit h more sugar and/or milk if you
find it t oo bit t er. Valrhona is my favourit e brand.
OILS
As a minimum, you need a good ext ra virgin olive oil for drizzling over finished dishes and
making vinaigret t es, light olive oil for frying, and a neut ral-flavoured oil for when you want a
less discernible flavour. Groundnut oil is ideal, but rapeseed oil is increasingly popular and
has a very high smoking point , meaning you can cook at higher t emperat ures wit hout it
burning. Hazelnut , sesame and t ruffle oils are useful for drizzling.
POMEGRANATE MOLASSES
Pomegranat e juice t hat has been boiled down t o a dark brown, sweet ly t art liquid.
Essent ial t o much Middle East ern cooking and available from Persian or Asian grocery
shops, or online.
RICE
Long-grained basmat i, which cooks and t ast es bet t er t han ot her variet ies; short -grained
for puddings; bomba and calasparra rice for paellas; and risot t o rice, which cont ains more
st arch and maint ains t he bit e you need. I prefer carnaroli, but arborio is also good.
SAUCES
Nat urally ferment ed soy sauce and fish sauce are essent ial in Asian cooking for delivering
a salt y kick. Ot her st ore-cupboard essent ials include Tabasco, t amarind ext ract , English
and seeded must ards, Worcest ershire sauce, and good old t omat o ket chup.
SPICES
I cover t hese in more det ail here, but remember, t hey lose t heir flavour quickly, so buy lit t le
and oft en. Asian shops t end t o be cheaper t han supermarket s, and because of t he higher
t urnover t heir spices are likely t o be fresher.
TINS
It alian t omat oes (preferably whole, as t he qualit y t ends t o be bet t er); cannellini beans;
anchovies; sardines; and mackerel.
VANILLA PODS
Fresh vanilla pods impart much more sweet , perfumed flavour t han vanilla ext ract . Look for
plump, oily pods from Madagascar. Once you have used t he seeds, place t he empt y pod
int o a bag of sugar, which will t ake on t he vanilla aroma and be ideal for baking.
VINEGARS
Essent ial not just for vinaigret t es and dressings but also t o deglaze pans. Sherry,
balsamic, whit e wine, cider and red wine vinegars all have dist inct ive flavours. Rice vinegar
is slight ly milder and sweet er, and much used in Chinese and Viet namese cooking. Malt
vinegar is best left for your fish and chips.
Ot her st aples I never like t o be wit hout are: flours (plain, st rong bread flour, and self-
raising); past a; maple syrup, leaf gelat ine (easier t o use t han granules); inst ant (dried)
yeast ; capers; and nut s (like spices, t hey go st ale very quickly, so buy in small quant it ies).
COOKING FOR ONE OR TWO
Tagliat elle wit h quick sausage-meat bolognese
Chilli dogs
Griddled pineapple wit h spiced caramel
BRUSCHETTE WITH GARLIC,
TOMATOES, CAPER BERRIES
AND PECORINO
SERVES 2
Bruschet t e make a great st art er for a dinner part y, or equally a nice light supper dish if you are
feeling lazy. You can use any bread wit h an open crumb, such as baguet t es, sourdough or pain
de campagne one t hat , once t oast ed, has a dried surface t hat will really soak up t he garlic
and t omat o flavours.
8 slices good-qualit y baguet t e
Olive oil, for brushing
garlic clove, peeled
8 cherry t omat oes, halved
8 caper berries, sliced diagonally
50g pecorino cheese, cut int o t hin flakes
Ext ra virgin olive oil
1. Heat a griddle pan unt il hot . Brush t he baguet t e slices wit h olive oil and t oast for 12
minut es on each side unt il golden brown and marked.
2. Remove t he bread and, while warm, rub it light ly wit h t he cut side of t he garlic clove. Rub t wo
of t he cherry t omat o halves, cut side down, int o each slice of baguet t e, pushing t he flesh
against t he bread t o squash it int o t he surface.
3. Season t he bruschet t e wit h salt and pepper. Top wit h t he sliced caper berries and t he
remaining t omat oes, t hen scat t er t he pecorino over t he t op. Serve wit h a drizzle of ext ra virgin
olive oil.
HOW TO MAKE PECORINO SHAVINGS
The humble veget able peeler is not just for peeling veg, it s ideal for making t hin shavings or
ribbons of cheese, carrot s, cucumbers and chocolat e.
CANNELLINI BEAN
CROSTINI WITH
ANCHOVY AND OLIVES
SERVES 2
Cannellini beans are rat her bland on t heir own, so t hey need plent y of help. Here you are
adding salt iness from t he anchovy, bit t erness from t he olives, sweet ness from t he oil and
sourness from t he vinegar. The four main t ast es all covered on a single piece of bread. Genius.
68 slices ciabat t a bread
1 400g t in cannellini beans, drained
Olive oil, for brushing
10 pit t ed black olives, chopped
t bsp red wine or sherry vinegar
4 preserved anchovy fillet s, roughly chopped
1. Heat a griddle pan unt il hot . Brush t he bread wit h olive oil and t oast for 23 minut es on each
side unt il golden brown and marked.
2. Meanwhile, heat a small saucepan over a medium heat , add t he cannellini beans and a
drizzle of olive oil and heat t hrough. Crush roughly wit h a fork or pot at o masher and st ir in t he
olives, vinegar, parsley and salt and pepper t o t ast e.
3. Pile t he crushed cannellini beans on t op of t he t oast ed bread and scat t er t he anchovy
pieces over t he t op. Season wit h pepper and serve.
FARFALLE WITH RICOTTA,
PANCETTA AND PEAS
SERVES 2
Bacon, peas and cream make a classic past a sauce. Ive light ened t he whole dish here by using
crme frache inst ead of double cream, and nat urally low-fat ricot t a cheese inst ead of
Parmesan.
200g dried farfalle past a
125g smoked pancet t a lardons
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
100g frozen peas
3 t bsp crme frache
2. Meanwhile, put t he pancet t a lardons in a dry frying pan large enough t o hold t he past a when
cooked. Fry for 5 minut es unt il t he lardons are cooked t hrough and light ly coloured on t he
out side, t hen add t he garlic and cook for 1 minut e unt il soft but not coloured. Turn off t he heat .
3. Three minut es before t he past a is ready, add t he peas t o it t o cook t hrough. Drain well,
reserving a couple of t ablespoons of t he cooking wat er.
4. Tip t he past a and peas int o t he pan wit h t he pancet t a and st ir well over a low heat . Add t he
crme frache and st ir unt il melt ed, adding a t ablespoon or t wo of t he past a cooking wat er t o
loosen if necessary. Dot in t he ricot t a, gent ly mixing. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning as
necessary.
5. Serve t he farfalle hot , drizzled wit h a lit t le olive oil.
HOW TO MAKE SILKY PASTA SAUCES
Whenever you make a creamy past a dish, always st ir in a lit t le of t he past a wat er t o make t he
sauce silky smoot h.
FLATBREADS WITH
FENNEL AND FETA
SERVES 2
Youll find count less variat ions of pizza around t he world, where a dough base is used as a
plat e t o carry ot her ingredient s. In t his version t he salt iness of t he fet a works beaut ifully wit h
t he sharp sweet ness of t he pomegranat e molasses and t he aniseed crunch of fennel.
2 Middle East ern flat breads, e.g. Khobez
1 t sp fennel seeds
1 small fennel bulb, t rimmed
1 t bsp pomegranat e molasses (see here)
1. Drizzle t he flat bread wit h a lit t le olive oil on each side and season wit h salt and pepper. Heat
a frying pan over a medium heat and t oast t he flat breads individually for 2 minut es on each
side unt il golden and t urning crisp.
2. Remove t he flat breads from t he pan and keep warm. If necessary, wipe away any remaining
oil in t he pan, t hen t oast t he fennel seeds for about 1 minut e unt il aromat ic. Remove and set
aside.
3. Shave t he fennel bulb int o t hin slices using a mandolin or veget able peeler.
4. Sprinkle t he shaved fennel over t he flat breads, t hen scat t er wit h t he fet a and fennel seeds.
Drizzle some pomegranat e molasses over each flat bread and serve.
SWEETCORN FRITTERS
AND YOGHURT DIP
MAKES 8 SMALL FRITTERS
Weve all got a t in of t wo of sweet corn lurking in a cupboard somewhere, and t hese t hick
savoury pancakes show how easily you can t ransform t hem int o an int erest ing light lunch or
supper. The secret here is not t o make t he bat t er mix t oo wet . You are aiming for a balance of
one-t hird bat t er t o t wo-t hirds filling.
100g plain flour
t sp baking powder
1 egg, beat en
4 t bsp whole milk
Olive oil
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped (see t ip here)
250g t inned sweet corn, drained and dried on kit chen paper
FOR THE YOGHURT DIP
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped, t o t ast e
Juice of lime
1. First , mix t oget her all t he ingredient s for t he dip. Tast e and season as necessary, t hen set
aside.
2. Sift t he flour and baking powder int o a mixing bowl. Season wit h salt and pepper. Mix
t oget her, make a well in t he middle and add t he egg and milk. Whisk, gradually bringing t he
flour int o t he wet mixt ure unt il it forms a smoot h bat t er. Add 1 t ablespoon of olive oil and whisk
again unt il smoot h, adding a lit t le more milk if necessary.
3. St ir t he spring onions, chilli, coriander and sweet corn int o t he bat t er and mix well.
4. Heat a large frying pan and add a glug of oil. Put a heaped dessert spoon of mixt ure per
frit t er int o t he hot pan, pushing it down light ly. Fry in bat ches for 12 minut es on each side unt il
golden. Keep warm.
5. Serve t he warm frit t ers wit h t he yoghurt dip alongside.
HOW TO CHOP CHILLIES FINELY
Press a chilli against a work surface and cut a line along it s lengt h, st opping just short of t he
st alk. Rot at e t he chilli by an eight h of a t urn and cut again. Repeat t his unt il you have 8 cut s
and t he chilli looks like a t assel when you hold it by t he st alk. Now hold t he chilli down firmly
wit h t hree fingers, t he middle one slight ly in front of t he ot hers, and, using t he knuckle of your
middle finger t o guide t he blade, slice across t he chilli, gradually working your way t owards t he
st alk.
MUSHROOM
AND LEEK PASTA
SERVES 2
There are very few dishes you cant simplify and st rip back t o t heir essence. This is a fast and
simple open lasagne t hat doesnt need any t ime in t he oven. Put t he ket t le on for t he past a
before youve even t aken your coat off, and youll have dinner on t he t able in 10 minut es.
8 chest nut mushrooms, t rimmed and sliced
1 leek, t rimmed, quart ered and sliced
46 lasagne sheet s, dried or fresh
100ml double cream
2 t bsp roughly chopped t arragon leaves
FOR THE GARLIC BRUSCHETTE
2 slices ciabat t a bread
Olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled and halved
1. Heat a large frying pan and add a dash of oil. Season t he mushrooms and st art t o saut
t hem, adding t he garlic aft er 2 minut es and t he leeks a minut e lat er. Cook for 68 minut es unt il
t he leeks are soft and t he mushrooms coloured on t he out side. Tast e and adjust t he
seasoning.
2. Add t he st ock and boil for 5 minut es unt il reduced by half.
3. Meanwhile, cook t he lasagne sheet s in a large saucepan of boiling salt ed wat er for 4
minut es or unt il just al dent e.
4. While t he lasagne is cooking, add t he cream t o t he frying pan and simmer for 23 minut es t o
reduce a lit t le.
5. When t he lasagne sheet s are cooked, drain and add t o t he pan wit h t he sauce, st irring unt il
well coat ed. Turn off t he heat , add t he t arragon leaves and allow t o sit while t he bread t oast s.
6. To prepare t he bruschet t e, preheat a griddle pan or grill. Rub t he slices of ciabat t a wit h olive
oil and t he cut side of t he garlic clove and t oast for 12 minut es on each side unt il golden
brown.
7. To serve, spoon t he lasagne and mushroom mixt ure ont o serving plat es, layering t hem up
at t ract ively. Serve t he t oast ed bruschet t e slices on t he side.
HOW TO COOK LASAGNE WITHOUT STICKING
Simply bring t he wat er t o a rolling boil and t hen gent ly t ilt t he pan from side t o side as you add
t he lasagne t o st op t he sheet s from st icking. Allow it t o simmer gent ly unt il al dent e. To t est if
it is ready, nip it bet ween your fingers. If you can feel t hem meet ing in t he middle, it is perfect ly
al dent e.
TAGLIATELLE WITH
QUICK SAUSAGE
MEAT BOLOGNESE
SERVES 2
Sausages always make a great quick-supper st andby. Rat her t han grilling t hem, t hough, Ill
oft en split t hem open t o get at all t he meat inside. Because it s already beaut ifully seasoned, it
gives you a head st art and means you achieve great er dept h of flavour in double quick t ime.
34 best -qualit y It alian-flavoured sausages (e.g. fennel or Sicilian, if possible)
150g dried t agliat elle
Freshly grat ed Parmesan cheese, t o serve
1. Heat a frying pan large enough t o cont ain t he past a once cooked. Add a lit t le oil and sweat
t he onions and garlic t oget her for 34 minut es unt il t he onions have soft ened. Remove t he
meat from t he sausage skins, add t o t he pan and brown for 45 minut es. Break up t he
sausage meat as you fry so t hat it resembles small pieces of mince.
2. Meanwhile, cook t he t agliat elle in boiling salt ed wat er unt il al dent e, according t o packet
inst ruct ions.
3. When t he sausage meat is light ly coloured, add t he halved t omat oes and a lit t le seasoning
t o t he pan and cont inue t o cook over a medium heat for 5 minut es unt il t he t omat oes begin t o
break down. Add a t ablespoon or t wo of t he past a wat er t o t he pan as it cooks t o creat e a
sauce.
4. Drain t he past a, reserving a furt her couple of t ablespoons of t he cooking wat er. Add t he
drained past a direct ly t o t he pan wit h t he sauce. Toss well, and loosen wit h a lit t le more of t he
cooking wat er if necessary. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning. Serve hot wit h freshly grat ed
Parmesan cheese.
SPICY TUNA
FISHCAKES
MAKES 8 SMALL CAKES
Anot her miraculous t ransformat ion of t he kind of ingredient we all have knocking about in a
kit chen cupboard. Text ure is always import ant in fishcakes, and t he wat er chest nut s add a
lovely light , pickled crunch. Grat ing t he ginger releases all of it s fresh, fiery juices, so make sure
you cat ch t hem all in t he bowl.
400g good-qualit y t inned t una
6 t inned wat er chest nut s, drained and finely sliced
3 spring onions, t rimmed and sliced
3 kaffir lime leaves, finely chopped (rehydrat ed for 5 minut es in boiling wat er if dried)
2 t sp Thai fish sauce
2 eggs, beat en
Veget able oil, for frying
FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE
Good pinch of cast er sugar
2 t bsp Thai fish sauce
Juice of lime
1. First make t he dipping sauce. Mix t oget her all t he sauce ingredient s, st irring unt il t he sugar
has dissolved. Tast e and adjust t he flavours as necessary. Set aside.
2. Drain t he t una and place in a bowl; use a fork t o separat e t he chunks. Add t he wat er
chest nut s, spring onions, ginger, coriander, chilli and lime leaves and season wit h salt and
pepper. Add t he fish sauce and beat en eggs. Mix well.
3. Squeezing t he mixt ure t o t ight ly compress it and get rid of any excess liquid, shape it int o
balls t he size of golf balls. Flat t en t hem light ly int o pat t ies.
4. Heat a frying pan over a medium heat , add a lit t le oil and shallow-fry t he fishcakes on each
side for 12 minut es unt il golden on all sides and heat ed t hrough. Serve wit h t he dipping
sauce.
HOW TO HANDLE CHILLIES
When youve been chopping chillies, rub your hands wit h olive oil before washing t hem. The oil
helps dissolve t he capsaicin, t he source of t he chillis heat , which is more soluble in oil t han in
wat er, and it will t hen rinse away easily.
CHILLI DOGS
SERVES 2
Im a real sucker for proper American hot dogs a juicy frankfurt er covered wit h caramelised
onions and t hat weirdly addict ive sweet must ard. Even bet t er when it is t opped wit h an easy
chilli con carne. The quant it y of chilli here will produce enough for left overs for anot her night .
2 large frankfurt er-st yle hot dog sausages
2 hot dog buns
50g Lancashire cheese, crumbled or grat ed
1 spring onion, t rimmed and finely chopped
FOR THE QUICK CHILLI CON CARNE
t sp cumin seeds
1 t sp chilli powder, t o t ast e
300g minced beef
1 t sp Worcest ershire sauce
2 t sp t omat o pure
t sp dried oregano
FOR THE CARAMELISED ONIONS
2 red onions, peeled and finely sliced
1 t bsp brown sugar
1 t bsp balsamic vinegar
1. First make t he quick chilli con carne. Heat a saucepan over a medium heat . Add a dash of oil
and, once hot , sweat t he onion for 45 minut es, t hen add t he garlic and fry for anot her minut e
unt il soft . Add t he cumin seeds and st ir over a medium heat for 12 minut es unt il aromat ic.
Add t he chilli powder and mix well.
2. Season t he mince. Turn up t he heat and add anot her dash of oil t o t he pan. Fry t he mince
over a high heat for 68 minut es, st irring well t o break it up. When it is light ly browned, add t he
Worcest ershire sauce, t urn down t he heat and add t he t omat o pure, cooking for 12 minut es.
3. Add t he t omat oes, sugar and oregano along wit h a pinch of pepper. Bring t o a simmer, cover
and simmer gent ly for 20 minut es, st irring frequent ly.
4. Meanwhile, prepare t he caramelised onions. Heat a small frying pan over a medium low heat
and add a dash of oil. Add t he onions wit h a good pinch of salt and gent ly sweat for 1015
minut es unt il complet ely soft ened and t urning a rich golden colour. (Dont increase t he heat t o
speed up t his process as youll end up wit h burnt onions.) Once t he onions are golden and
really soft , add t he sugar and balsamic vinegar. Increase t he heat t o medium and allow t o
caramelise gent ly. Cook for about 5 minut es unt il t he liquid is reduced and t he onions are nice
and st icky. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning as necessary.
5. When ready t o serve, boil or griddle t he sausages for 6 minut es or unt il heat ed t hrough.
Remove and drain. Divide t he caramelised onions bet ween t he opened hot dog buns. Top wit h
t he cooked sausage and a generous spoonful or t wo of chilli con carne. Crumble over t he
cheese and finish wit h a sprinkling of chopped spring onion.
BEEF TACOS WITH
WASABI MAYO
MAKES 68 TACOS
This mix of Mexican and Japanese flavours seared st eak marinat ed in a rich, sweet sauce
and wrapped in a t aco (a t oast ed corn t ort illa) makes a really quick meat y feast . Normally,
meat is marinat ed before cooking, but here you cook t he st eak and t hen let it cool in t he
marinade t o absorb all t hat flavour. The st eaks can be left t o marinat e fo up t o four days t he
longer t he bet t er.
2 beef sirloin st eaks
68 small (14cm) corn t ort illas, t o serve
FOR THE MARINADE
2 t bsp light miso past e
2 t bsp mirin
2 t bsp olive oil
FOR THE QUICK PICKLED CABBAGE
head of Chinese cabbage, finely shredded
11 t bsp rice vinegar or lemon juice
t sp t oast ed sesame oil
FOR THE WASABI MAYO
t sp wasabi, t o t ast e
2 heaped t bsp mayonnaise
1. First prepare t he marinade. Mix t he miso past e, mirin, sugar and olive oil, st irring well t o
dissolve t he sugar. Season and add a t ablespoon of wat er if t he mixt ure needs loosening a
lit t le.
2. Leave t he fat on t he st eaks t o st op t hem drying out as you cook t hem. Season t hem well
and fry in a hot oiled frying pan for 23 minut es on eit her side for rare/medium rare, or unt il
cooked t o your liking. (Shake t he pan gent ly as you put t he st eaks in t he pan t o st op t hem
st icking, ot herwise t hey might burn.) Render t he fat by t ipping t he st eaks ont o t heir sides and
cooking unt il t he fat is golden and crisp. Keep bast ing t he st eaks as you cook.
3. When t he st eaks are cooked, remove from t he pan and cut off t he remaining layer of fat .
Place t he st eaks in t he marinade, coat ing all sides. Leave t o rest , spooning t he marinade over
now and again.
4. Meanwhile, prepare t he quick pickled cabbage. Put t he cabbage in a bowl and season wit h
salt and pepper. Add t he rice vinegar, sesame oil and chilli flakes. Toss t he mixt ure t o coat ,
t hen leave t o soft en slight ly for a couple of minut es.
5. Meanwhile, mix t oget her t he wasabi and mayonnaise, t ast e and add a lit t le more wasabi if
you like a st ronger flavour.
6. Heat t he t ort illas for 3060 seconds over a naked gas flame unt il charred and light ly t oast ed
(use a pan if you dont have gas). Roll t hem around a rolling pin while t heyre st ill hot , and hold
unt il cooled t o set in half-moon shapes. In t his form t hey are called t acos.
7. Drain t he beef of any excess marinade, t hen slice and place in t he t acos. Top wit h t he
cabbage (drained of excess liquid) and a lit t le wasabi mayo.
GRIDDLED PINEAPPLE
WITH SPICED CARAMEL
SERVES 2
Dessert s for one or t wo have t o be really easy or else you wont bot her. This griddled pineapple
st rikes just t he right balance. It can be ready in minut es and adds anot her dimension t o a
familiar fruit . To t est if your pineapple is ripe, t ry pulling a leaf from t he t op. It should come out
easily. If it doesnt , leave t he pineapple in t he fruit bowl for a day or t wo and t ry again.
1 ripe pineapple
4 t bsp cast er sugar, plus a lit t le ext ra for sprinkling
1 vanilla pod, seeds removed
Pinch of Chinese five-spice powder
20g but t er, cut in half
150ml double cream
1. First prepare t he pineapple. Using a serrat ed knife, cut off t he t op and base, t hen cut t he
pineapple int o 8 long wedges. Cut along t he inside edge of t he wedges t o remove t he core.
Slice bet ween t he flesh and t he skin as you would a piece of melon but leave t he last 2cm of
skin at t ached.
2. Heat a griddle pan. Place t he pineapple wedges in t he hot pan, pushing t he fruit against t he
griddle bars t o help it colour. Cook for 2 minut es on each side unt il marked. Sprinkle over a lit t le
cast er sugar 1 minut e before t he end of cooking t o glaze t he fruit .
3. To make t he caramel, t ip t he 4 t ablespoons of cast er sugar, t he vanilla seeds and five-spice
powder int o a heavy-based frying pan and cook over a medium heat for 34 minut es unt il t he
sugar has dissolved and is t urning a dark golden brown. Remove from t he heat , add t he but t er
and 2 t ablespoons of t he cream. Shake t he pan t o melt t he but t er, whisk t o combine, t hen add
t he remaining cream.
4. To serve, drizzle t he caramel sauce over t he pineapple wedges and serve immediat ely.
HOW TO GRIDDLE
Whenever you use a griddle pan, always press down hard what you are cooking and hold it
t here for a few seconds. This will help achieve t hose charact erist ic scorch lines, which not only
look at t ract ive but mean more flavour.
BLUEBERRY AND RICOTTA
PANCAKES WITH YOGHURT
AND HONEY
MAKES 8
Who says pancakes are only for breakfast ? These are cert ainly good enough t o eat at any
t ime of t he day. If you beat t he ricot t a wit h a fork first , it will loosen up and be easier t o fold int o
t he bat t er. And remember, when whisking egg whit es, make sure your bowl and whisk are
spot lessly clean. Any grease will st op t he whit es from fluffing up. This will make enough bat t er
for t he following day t oo.
125g plain flour
Pinch of salt
2 eggs, separat ed
100ml whole milk
100g fresh blueberries, plus ext ra t o serve
Oil and but t er, for frying
Greek yoghurt and runny honey, t o serve
1. Sift t he flour, baking powder, salt and sugar int o a large bowl and mix t oget her. Make a well
in t he middle and t ip in t he egg yolks. Gradually add t he milk and whisk slowly, bringing t he flour
in from t he edges unt il it is all combined. Fold in t he ricot t a and blueberries.
2. In a separat e bowl, whisk t he egg whit es unt il t hey almost reach soft peaks. Fold a spoonful
of t he egg whit es int o t he pancake mix t o loosen it slight ly, t hen fold in t he rest .
3. Heat a wide, non-st ick frying pan over a medium heat . Add a dash of oil and a small knob of
but t er. Once t he but t er has melt ed, cook t he pancakes in small bat ches, using 1 heaped
t ablespoon of bat t er per pancake. Shape t hem int o round discs in t he pan. Cook for 12
minut es on each side unt il golden and fluffy and hot all t he way t hrough. Keep warm in a low
oven while you repeat wit h t he remaining bat t er.
4. To serve, divide bet ween serving plat es, t op wit h a dollop of Greek yoghurt , a sprinkling of
fresh blueberries and a drizzle of honey.
SOMETIMES COOKS CAN BE
THEIR OWN WORST ENEMIES.
I occasionally go round t o friends for dinner and when I see what t hey are put t ing
t hemselves t hrough, it almost makes me cry. Theyll be manfully st ruggling t o carve a joint ,
wit h four different veget ables all coming t o t he boil, a gravy st ill t o be made, and t hey want
t o plat e it all up t hemselves and bring it t o t he t able. Meanwhile, we guest s sit t here,
wat ching as t he st ress levels go t hrough t he roof, wishing t heyd let us help.
And I just want t o say, Are you mad? No one can get food out under t hose
condit ions. Ive worked in professional kit chens for more t han 25 years, and Id never dream
of t rying t o do all t hat on my own. In a rest aurant youve got chefs on all t he different
sect ions, each cooking t heir own element s: t he meat , t he veget ables, t he sauces. Youve
got a head chef whose job it is t o check each plat e is perfect . Youve got wait ers ferrying
t he dishes t o t he t able, and youve even got a kit chen port er t o do t he washing up. That s
what ? a minimum of six people. And t here you are t rying t o do t he whole t hing on your
own. No wonder youre st ressed.
The first t hing t o remember when you are cooking for a crowd is t hat it hasnt got t o
be perfect . Youre not running a rest aurant here. Your guest s have hopefully come
because t hey want t o spend t ime in your company, not because t hey want a Michelin-
st arred meal on t he cheap. So relax and make sure t he meal will work for you in order t hat
you can enjoy yourself at t he same t ime.
That means choosing t he right menu. It doesnt mat t er if it s one course or five, it s
got t o be somet hing you can produce wit hout breaking a sweat . Cooking can be st ressful,
t heres no denying it , but if you plan ahead, youll be able t o minimise it . Think about what
you are set t ing yourself up t o do. Are you going t o have t o do lot s of last -minut e prepping,
or can everyt hing be made ready in advance? Will you be t rying t o cook eight st eaks wit h
only one frying pan, or can it all be left alone in t he oven? Will t he fish need fillet ing before
you can plat e it up? This is t he kind of forward t hinking t hat makes most disast ers
avoidable and will, hopefully, save you a world of hurt .
Let s st art by t alking about t iming. I find a lot of people misunderst and t his. They t hink of
t hose count downs you oft en see in magazines around Christ mas t ime you know t he
sort : 10.30 Put in t he t urkey; 12.15 Put on t he pot at oes; 12.50 Boil t he veg. These are
always geared t owards everyt hing coming t oget her at t he same moment so t hat on t he
st roke of 1 p.m. your joint is ready, your pot at oes are roast ed, your sprout s and carrot s are
perfect ly cooked. Success, you t hink. Except t hat you t hen have t he most almight y panic
as you t ry t o drain t he veg, carve t he t urkey and put t he pot at oes in t he serving dish all at
t he same t ime.
When chefs t alk about t iming, it is almost t he opposit e. We are t rying t o make sure
t hat everyt hing doesnt come t oget her at t he same t ime. Far bet t er t hat t he joint has
come out of t he oven half an hour earlier (it will always benefit from having t ime t o relax),
t hat t he veget ables are keeping warm in a low oven, t hat only t he gravy is st ill t o be
finished off.
Anyt hing you can make ahead is t o t he good. That doesnt just mean t he kind of slow
braises and casseroles I covered in Cooking in Advance (alt hough, of course, t hey are ideal
for feeding a crowd). Just as import ant are dishes t hat can be prepared a few hours ahead
and t hen finished off at t he last minut e. The St icky Pork Ribs here, for example, is ideal for
crowds, as it can be t aken t o t he final st age and t hen finished off on t he hob, leaving you
in t ot al cont rol. A cold st art er or side dish is always a fant ast ic st ress-bust ing opt ion, one
you can get ready hours before your guest s arrive. The only problem wit h salads is t hat
once you add t he vinaigret t e, t he leaves will st art t o wilt , and wit hin minut es t hey will t urn
limp and slimy. One t rick is t o put t he vinaigret t e in t he base of t he bowl, t hen cross t he
salad servers over it t o form a kind of st and you can rest t he salad leaves on, so t hey
arent in cont act wit h t he dressing. Then, when t he t ime comes t o serve, a quick t oss and
you are good t o go. Alt ernat ively, t here are all manner of robust salads t hat oft en benefit
from being dressed ahead of t ime. The Green Papaya Salad here is a good example. You
can make t hat a few hours in advance and it will act ually improve wit h t he ext ra t ime.
If you are super-organised, dont forget t hat veget ables can be blanched in boiling wat er
for a couple of minut es and t hen refreshed in iced wat er, ready for reheat ing at t he last
minut e, eit her in t he microwave or by plunging t hem int o boiling wat er.
A quick word about boiling veget ables for crowds. As a general rule, you shouldnt use
more liquid in a saucepan t han you need t o cover t he t hing you want t o cook; ot herwise
you encourage more flavours t o leach out . However, when boiling veget ables, part icularly
frozen ones, you should always bring a generous amount of wat er t o t he boil. That way
t he wat er will ret urn t o heat much more quickly once youve added t he veget ables, and
t heyll st ay firmer and greener as a result .
Somet imes a dish will require lot s of last -minut e work, so dont be afraid t o ask for
help. Kit chens work on delegat ion, and one of t he first t asks a head chef has t o learn is t o
organise his brigade. I always assign t asks t o my guest s, from pouring drinks t o laying t he
t able. Get t hem involved. Even bet t er, make t he food preparat ion part of t he
ent ert ainment . Get your guest s t o make t heir own Viet namese prawn rolls, ask t hem t o
mix t he salad.
You also need t o t hink about how you will present your food. Will you plat e it all up in
t he kit chen, or will you let guest s help t hemselves? For me, it depends ent irely on what I
am serving. If Ive got a big cent repiece dish, like a magnificent rib of beef, Ill let guest s
share in t he excit ement and carve it at t he t able. Eight fillet s of fish, on t he ot her hand,
arent going t o look t oo impressive sit t ing in t heir hot frying pans, so Ill t end t o plat e t hose
up, but ask someone t o come and help. That way t hey can be served on hot plat es
st raight out of t he warming oven (part icularly import ant wit h fish as it will go cold quickly).
Ill t end t o let t he guest s help t hemselves t o veget ables.
If it s a more casual gat hering (and t o be honest , we are all heading t his way more and
more wit h our home cooking), Ill simply put big bowls of salad or st ew or what ever out on
t he t able and let everyone t uck in. If you invest in some nice serving bowls or cast -iron
casserole dishes t his can st ill look elegant just remember t o warn guest s when pans are
hot if you want t o avoid any lawsuit s.
Finally t he pudding. This is one area where I t hink you can afford t o show off a bit . It s
t he last t hing your guest s will t ast e, t he memory t heyll t ake home wit h t hem, so why not
finish on a bang? It hasnt got t o be super-complicat ed, but it should look t he part , so st ick
t o somet hing you can t ake your t ime over and t hat wont need lot s of last -minut e work.
Then put it in t he cent re of t he t able and let your guest s t uck in.
COOKING FOR CROWDS
Green papaya salad
Chopped salad
Fresh prawn rolls
St icky pork ribs
Paella
Pimms jellies
GREEN PAPAYA SALAD
SERVES 68
This is a great salad t o serve at a part y. It is delicious and robust enough t o last t he whole
evening wit hout wilt ing. The secret is in t he sour, t angy past e, which is a st aple of Thai cooking
and adds t he salt y dept h of flavour youll find in so many of t heir dishes. Im using super-hot
birds eye chillies here, so do be careful. The sugar will soft en t he blow of t he heat , but wont
hide it . If serving fewer numbers, t he ingredient s below can easily be halved.
46 t bsp dried shrimp, t o t ast e
Sea salt
2 red birds eye chillies, chopped
4 t bsp golden cast er sugar
2 t bsp t amarind past e
4 t bsp fish sauce
Juice of 2 limes
2 large green papayas, peeled and grat ed, cent ral core and seeds discarded (see t ip here)
2 shallot s, peeled and grat ed
2 carrot s, peeled and grat ed
6 t bsp roughly chopped coriander
6 t bsp roughly chopped Thai basil
6 t bsp roughly chopped skinned peanut s
1. Using a large pest le and mort ar, grind t he dried shrimp wit h a pinch of salt unt il it s broken
int o small pieces. Add t he garlic, chillies, sugar, t amarind past e and fish sauce and grind unt il
t he mixt ure has a past e-like consist ency. St ir in t he lime juice t o loosen.
2. Mix t he papaya, shallot s, carrot s, coriander and basil t oget her in a bowl.
3. Toast t he chopped peanut s, rolling t hem around in a dry pan wit h a pinch of salt for 23
minut es unt il golden. This will make t he nut s sweet er and more int ensely flavoured. (Dont
chop t hem t oo small or t hey will burn.)
4. Add 6 t ablespoons of t he shrimp past e t o t he salad and t oss really well. Tast e and add a
lit t le more of t he past e if needed. Garnish t he salad wit h t he peanut s and serve.
HOW TO PREPARE GREEN PAPAYA
Green papaya doesnt look much from t he out side but it has a unique flavour. The t ext ure is
very st rong and durable, like a palm heart , so it t akes t he dressing but doesnt wilt . To peel it ,
st and it up and cut down around t he sides, as if paring an orange.
ROASTED RED PEPPER,
LENTIL AND HERB SALAD
SERVES 68
I love t o add pulses t o my salads as a way of bulking t hem up for a hungry crowd. That way
t hey work as bot h veget able and carbohydrat e, freeing you up t o concent rat e on t he main
element perhaps a lemony roast chicken, or but t erflied leg of lamb grilled on t he barbecue.
Dont dice t he avocado unt il t he last minut e or it will discolour.
400g Puy lent ils
2 lit res hot veget able st ock
2 bay leaves
4 courget t es, t rimmed
4 red peppers
Olive oil, for roast ing
350g sunblush/semi-dried t omat oes in olive oil
2 ripe avocados
Juice of 1 lemon
8 t bsp chopped chives
Bunch of basil, leaves roughly t orn
2. Boil t he lent ils in t he st ock wit h t he bay leaves for about 15 minut es unt il just cooked. Drain
and leave t o cool in a large bowl.
3. Meanwhile, chop t he courget t es and peppers int o bit e-sized pieces. Toss wit h olive oil and
season wit h salt and pepper. Place in a single layer on a roast ing t ray and place in t he oven for
1215 minut es unt il t ender and slight ly colouring at t he edges. Leave t o cool.
4. Drain t he t omat oes, reserving t he oil, and chop int o small chunks. Add 12 t ablespoons of
t he reserved oil t o t he lent ils. Add t he t omat oes, courget t es and red peppers and season well.
5. To serve, dice t he avocado and st ir int o t he cooled lent ils along wit h t he lemon juice, chives
and basil.
HOW TO SEASON LENTILS
Pulses, such as lent ils, beans and chickpeas, are great bargain ingredient s, but have a
prot ect ive membrane t hat can t oughen if seasoned t oo early. For t his reason, always wait unt il
t hey are cooked before you season t hem.
CHOPPED SALAD
SERVES 68
Anot her robust salad t hat s pret t y much a meal in it self. You may not t hink you like chicory
because it is quit e a bit t er leaf, but t rust me, it works really well here as a foil t o t he sweet ness
of t he cheese and t omat oes. Dont add t he vinaigret t e unt il you are ready t o serve or t he
let t uce will go limp.
2 banana shallot s, peeled and very finely sliced
250g baby plum t omat oes or cherry t omat oes, halved
4 romaine let t uces, shredded
4 small heads of red chicory, shredded
2 Romano or regular red peppers, deseeded and diced
2 400g t ins chickpeas, drained and rinsed
300g Edam cheese, sliced int o mat chst icks
250g salami, sliced int o st rips
Juice of about lemon
2 t bsp dried oregano, t o garnish
FOR THE SALAD DRESSING
2 t bsp sherry vinegar
180ml olive oil
1. Place t he shallot s and t omat oes in a large serving bowl. Season wit h salt and pepper, t hen
drizzle wit h a lit t le olive oil. Toss t o mix evenly and leave t o st and.
2. To make t he dressing, mix t oget her t he sherry vinegar, Worcest ershire sauce and sugar and
st ir unt il t he sugar has dissolved. Add t he garlic and mix well. Slowly pour in t he olive oil,
whisking cont inuously unt il t hick and glossy. Tast e and season, adjust ing t he oil or vinegar
level as necessary.
3. Mix t he let t uce, chicory, peppers, chickpeas, cheese and salami int o t he bowl wit h t he
t omat oes. Toss t o mix, t hen season wit h a lit t le more salt and pepper.
4. When ready t o serve, squeeze over t he juice of half a lemon and add t hree-quart ers of t he
salad dressing. Mix t horoughly and t ast e, adding a lit t le more lemon juice and/or salad dressing
as necessary. Sprinkle over t he dried oregano, t oss once more and serve.
HOW TO STOP YOUR CHOPPING BOARD SLIPPING
An unst able chopping board is a dangerous one; t o keep it securely in place, wet a dishclot h or
kit chen t owel and place it underneat h t he board t o st op it from slipping around.
GREEN BEAN SALAD
WITH MUSTARD DRESSING
SERVES 68
Green beans seem t o have replaced frozen peas as t he ubiquit ous all-year-round veget able.
This is a very simple way of jazzing t hem up during t he summer mont hs. Roast ing t he garlic
brings out it s nat ural sweet ness so it has none of t he ast ringency you find in t he raw bulb.
1kg green beans, t opped and t ailed
200g flaked almonds
FOR THE DRESSING
2 small heads of garlic
2 t sp runny honey
150ml olive oil
2. Wrap t he garlic for t he dressing in foil and roast in t he oven for 2025 minut es unt il soft .
Remove and leave t o cool.
3. Meanwhile, blanch t he green beans by plunging t hem in plent y of boiling salt ed wat er for 1
minut es unt il t heir rawness has been removed but t hey are st ill crunchy. Refresh immediat ely
under cold running wat er, t hen drain and leave t o one side.
4. Light ly t oast t he almonds in a medium-hot dry frying pan for 23 minut es unt il golden. Leave
t o cool.
5. Mix t oget her t he cooled beans and almonds wit h a lit t le seasoning.
6. Remove t he flesh from t he garlic heads and mash wit h 1 t ablespoon of t he whit e wine
vinegar unt il a smoot h past e is formed. Add t he must ard and honey and mix well. Pour in t he
olive oil in a slow drizzle, st irring const ant ly t o t hicken. Tast e and season as necessary, adding
a lit t le more vinegar if needed.
7. Dress t he green beans, t oss t o coat well and serve.
HOW TO MIX DRESSINGS EASILY
Inst ead of whisking t he ingredient s in a bowl, put t hem in a jar wit h a t ight -fit t ing lid and shake
vigorously. This emulsifies t he mixt ure more easily t han whisking, and any left over dressing can
be st ored in t he jar for fut ure use.
FRESH PRAWN ROLLS
MAKES 2428 ROLLS
I grew up loving spring rolls, but t ravelling around Asia gave me a new respect for t his really
simple dish. The prawns give a really nice sweet ness t o t he wraps, but you need t o t hink about
t ext ure t oo. That s why Ive included baby gem let t uce and carrot s t o provide some crunch.
You can make t hese rolls in advance and t ake t hem out of t he fridge seconds before your
guest s arrive.
200g dried vermicelli or fine rice noodles
500g cooked king prawns, peeled, deveined and roughly chopped (see here)
2 baby gem let t uces, shredded
2 large carrot s, peeled and grat ed
4 t bsp chopped Thai basil
4 t bsp chopped mint
Juice of 2 limes
2428 round rice paper sheet s (16cm diamet er)
FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE
180ml fish sauce
2 red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
4 t bsp chopped mint
1. To rehydrat e t he vermicelli noodles, soak in boiling wat er for 34 minut es; drain and refresh
under running cold wat er. When cool, shake off any excess wat er and leave t o one side.
2. To make t he dipping sauce, mix t oget her t he sugar, rice vinegar, fish sauce, chillies and
garlic. Mix well, st irring unt il t he sugar has dissolved. Add t he remaining ingredient s. Mix, t ast e
and adjust as necessary, t hen set aside.
3. To make t he rolls, roughly chop t he noodles in a bowl. Mix in t he prawns, let t uce, spring
onion, carrot , coriander, basil and mint . Add t he lime juice along wit h 2 t ablespoons of t he
dipping sauce and mix t oget her. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning, adding a lit t le more sauce if
needed.
4. Dip a rice paper in a bowl of hot wat er for about 20 seconds unt il soft ened and pliable.
Splash a board wit h a lit t le wat er before placing a rice paper on it (t his will st op it from st icking),
t hen put a spoonful of mixt ure int o t he cent re of t he rice paper and fold t he sides over t he
filling. Roll up t ight ly int o a spring roll shape and repeat wit h t he remaining mixt ure and rice
papers.
5. Serve t he rolls wit h t he dipping sauce on t he side.
HOW TO MAXIMISE CITRUS JUICE
To get t he maximum amount of juice from a lemon or lime, roll it hard under your palm for a
minut e before juicing.
STICKY PORK RIBS
SERVES 68
St icky, chewy, sweet and sour, t hese ribs are impossible t o resist . The glaze is packed full of
vibrant , cit rusy flavours, wit h t he sweet ness of t he honey count eract ing t he spices. The secret
is t o get t he ribs really well caramelised before you add any of t he ot her ingredient s. As t hey
braise in t he oven, all t hat colour will t urn int o t he most amazing flavour.
2kg pork ribs, separat ed
10cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and sliced
8 whole st ar anise
8 t bsp runny honey
300ml soy sauce
600ml Shaoxing rice wine or medium-dry sherry
10 spring onions, t rimmed and sliced
2. Season t he ribs wit h salt and pepper, pushing t he seasoning int o t he meat . Heat a roast ing
t ray on t he hob wit h a lit t le olive oil and brown t he ribs for 510 minut es unt il t hey are coloured
on all sides.
3. Add t he garlic, ginger, chilli flakes, Sichuan peppercorns, st ar anise and honey and cont inue
t o cook over t he heat for 2 minut es unt il t he honey begins t o caramelise. Add t he soy sauce,
rice vinegar and Shaoxing wine and bring t o t he boil, simmering for 1 minut e. Tast e and adjust
t he flavours, adding a lit t le ext ra vinegar if necessary. Add t he spring onions and st ock and
bring t o t he boil. Place in t he preheat ed oven and cook for 1 hour unt il t ender, t urning t he ribs
halfway t hrough t he cooking t ime.
4. Remove t he pan from t he oven and place back on t he hob. Heat t he marinade and reduce
for 810 minut es unt il t he sauce is t hick and syrupy. Turn t he ribs in t he sauce t o coat t hem
well, t hen serve.
HOW TO GIVE RIBS EXTRA FLAVOUR
Once t he ribs have cooked in t he oven, you can leave t hem sit t ing in t heir st icky marinade for a
day or t wo, which really helps t o develop t he flavour. Then, when you come t o finish t hem off,
give t hem about 20 minut es on t he hob, ensuring t hey are well heat ed t hrough.
STUFFED LAMB WITH
SPINACH AND PINE NUTS
SERVES 68
Everyone t hinks lamb should go wit h mint , but it s nice t o go off pist e, as here, wit h fet a, pine
nut s and spinach. A lovely yoghurt and cucumber dressing complet es t his dish. Make sure you
sear t he saddle on t he hob before put t ing it int o t he oven t o kick-st art t he roast ing process
and get a well-coloured crisp out side in cont rast t o a perfect ly pink inside.
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
3 t bsp pine nut s
250g young spinach, washed
1 boned saddle of lamb, about 1.752kg (ask your but cher t o bone it for you)
12 t sp sumac (see here), t o t ast e
FOR THE DRESSING
large cucumber, peeled, deseeded and sliced int o rings
150ml nat ural yoghurt
Small bunch of mint , shredded
1 t bsp pomegranat e molasses (see here), t o t ast e
Zest of 1 lemon, squeeze of juice
1. Saut t he onion and garlic in a medium-hot pan wit h a dash of olive oil for 5 minut es unt il
soft ened. Season, t hen add t he pine nut s and fry for about 1 minut e unt il golden. Add t he
spinach and wilt briefly in t he pan, t ossing t o mix well. Remove from t he heat and st ir in t he
fet a.
2. Lay t he saddle of lamb open on a board, flesh side up. Season wit h salt and pepper and
sprinkle over t he sumac. Spoon t he spinach mixt ure along t he middle of t he meat , using t he
fillet s t hat run down t he inside lengt h of t he meat t o support t he sides of t he st uffing.
3. Roll t he meat around t he filling and t ie at int ervals wit h st ring. Season t he out side of t he
lamb all over, t hen chill for at least 30 minut es or overnight t o help it firm up and make it easier
t o brown.
5. Put a roast ing t ray on t he hob and heat unt il hot . Add a glug of oil and fry t he joint for 10
minut es unt il brown all over. Transfer t o t he preheat ed oven and cook for 4555 minut es,
depending on t he weight of t he lamb and how pink you like it . When cooked, set aside t o rest .
6. Meanwhile, mix all t he dressing ingredient s t oget her and add a lit t le seasoning.
7. Serve t he rest ed lamb hot or at room t emperat ure, t hickly sliced, wit h t he dressing on t he
side.
HOW TO STUFF MEAT
The secret of any st uffing is t o part -cook it first . Raw onions and raw garlic will t ake for ever t o
cook inside t he meat . If you are not going t o be roast ing t he meat immediat ely, you must let
t he st uffing cool before using it . When filling t he saddle, put ext ra st uffing at t he edges as
some will inevit ably squeeze out as you roll, and dont t ie it t oo t ight ly.
PAELLA
SERVES 810
The original one-pot Spanish dish. Unlike risot t o, paella does not have t o be st irred as it cooks,
so it is bet t er suit ed t o ent ert aining. As always when cooking rice, you need t wice t he quant it y
of liquid t o t he rice. The ot her t hing t o wat ch is t hat you add t he seafood according t o how
long it needs t o cook: squid goes in last as it becomes rubbery if cooked for t oo long.
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
1 large red pepper, deseeded and diced
34 garlic cloves, peeled and t hinly sliced
200g cooking chorizo sausage, skinned and sliced
400g skinless and boneless chicken t highs
500g paella rice, e.g. calasparra or bomba
1 lit re hot chicken st ock
Generous pinch of saffron st rands
24 mussels, cleaned
300g raw king prawns, whole or heads removed
300g squid, cleaned and sliced int o t hin rings
400g peas, t hawed if frozen
Handful of chopped flat leaf parsley, t o garnish
2 lemons, cut int o wedges, t o serve
1. Heat a lit t le olive oil in a large paella pan or frying pan. Add t he onion and red pepper and
saut for 23 minut es t o soft en. Add t he garlic and saut for a furt her 2 minut es before adding
t he chorizo and paprika.
2. Meanwhile, cut t he chicken int o bit e-sized pieces and season wit h salt and pepper. Add t o
t he pan and fry for a few minut es over a high heat , st irring frequent ly, t o light ly seal t he meat .
3. Tip in t he rice and st ir for 23 minut es, t hen add t he wine and cook for about 5 minut es t o
evaporat e before adding t he st ock. Bring up t o a simmer, t hen add t he saffron and t omat oes.
Season wit h salt and pepper and st ir well.
4. Simmer for 10 minut es, t hen gent ly push t he mussels and prawns int o t he t op of t he rice.
Cook over a medium heat for 5 minut es unt il t he prawns are opaque and t he mussels have
opened (discard any t hat havent ). St ir in t he squid and t he peas and cook for a furt her 23
minut es. (The rice should now be cooked and all t he liquid absorbed.)
5. Tast e and adjust t he seasoning as necessary.
6. Remove t he pan from t he heat , cover t ight ly wit h foil and allow t o rest for 10 minut es.
Garnish wit h t he parsley and lemon wedges and serve.
ROAST SIRLOIN OF BEEF
SERVES 68
If you buy a good piece of beef, you need do not hing more t han rub it wit h a lit t le olive oil and
season it generously before put t ing it int o a very hot oven. The fat will bast e t he meat as it
cooks, result ing in a beaut ifully flavoursome roast . Dont forget t o leave t he joint t o relax for at
least 15 minut es so t hat it has t ime t o reabsorb it s juices. If you want t o have a t radit ional
roast , serve wit h Yorkshire puddings, roast pot at oes and st eamed broccoli. Alt ernat ively, serve
at room t emperat ure wit h a salad (see here).
1.52kg sirloin of beef, t rimmed
2 t bsp olive oil
A few rosemary sprigs, leaves chopped
FOR THE GRAVY
2 banana shallot s, peeled and t hinly sliced
2 t bsp plain flour
12 t bsp balsamic vinegar
150ml red wine
500ml beef st ock
A few t arragon sprigs, leaves chopped
1. Preheat t he oven t o 230C/Gas 8. Put t he beef in a large roast ing t ray and drizzle wit h t he
olive oil. Sprinkle over some salt , pepper and t he chopped rosemary and rub t he seasoning all
over t he beef. Turn t he joint so t hat t he fat is on t op. Roast in t he hot oven for 20 minut es,
t hen reduce t he heat t o 200C/Gas 6. Roast for 510 minut es per 500g for medium rare meat ,
or 1015 minut es per 500g for medium. Turn t he beef halfway t hrough cooking for an even
roast .
2. Transfer t he beef t o a warm plat t er, cover loosely wit h foil and leave t o rest for 1520
minut es. To make t he gravy, pour off any excess fat from t he roast ing t ray, leaving behind a
couple of t ablespoons, t hen place t he t ray over a medium heat . Add t he shallot s, garlic and a
lit t le seasoning. Fry for about 46minut es, st irring frequent ly, unt il t he shallot s begin t o soft en.
Add t he flour and st ir for a few more minut es.
3. Pour in t he vinegar and red wine and bring t o t he boil. Add t he st ock and ret urn t o t he boil for
about 10 minut es unt il t he sauce has reduced and t hickened, t hen st ir in t he t arragon.
4. Carve t he beef t hinly and serve t he gravy in a warm jug.
POACHED WINTER FRUITS
WITH ZABAGLIONE
SERVES 6
This dessert shows t hat you dont have t o spend hours in t he kit chen t o creat e a st unning and
delicious end t o a meal. Alt hough a lit t le muscle power is needed for t he zabaglione, it s simple
t o make just before it s eat en. Cooking t imes for t he fruit will vary depending on how ripe it is t o
begin wit h you want it t ender but not falling apart .
1 750ml bot t le red wine, e.g. Chiant i
500ml ruby port
50g cast er sugar
2 cinnamon st icks
2 firm ripe pears
2 dessert apples
3 ripe fresh figs
3 ripe plums
Amaret t i biscuit s, t o serve
FOR THE ZABAGLIONE
5 egg yolks
125g cast er sugar
100ml sweet dessert wine, e.g. Marsala
1 t bsp whisky
1 t bsp brandy
1. Pour t he wine and port int o a pan, st ir in t he sugar and add t he cinnamon st icks. Place over a
low heat and warm for about 5 minut es unt il t he sugar has complet ely dissolved. Bring t o a
rolling boil and allow t o bubble for 510 minut es unt il reduced by half.
2. Meanwhile, prepare t he fruit . Peel, quart er and core t he pears and apples. Halve t he figs and
plums, and remove t he st ones from t he lat t er.
3. Add t he fruit s t o t he reduced wine mixt ure and simmer over a low heat for about 10 minut es
unt il deep red in colour and soft but holding t heir shape. Transfer t he fruit t o a large bowl,
ret urn t he poaching liquid t o t he boil and cont inue t o cook for 510 minut es unt il it has
reduced by anot her t wo-t hirds, or unt il you are left wit h a syrupy glaze. Pour t his over t he fruit
and leave t o st eep.
4. Meanwhile, make t he zabaglione. Pour a shallow dept h of wat er int o a saucepan and bring
t o simmering point . Put t he egg yolks and sugar in a heat proof mixing bowl t hat will fit snugly
on t op of t he pan wit hout it s base t ouching t he wat er. Wit h t he bowl on a work surface, whisk
t he yolks and sugar t oget her wit h a hand-held elect ric whisk for 23 minut es unt il pale and
t hick. Add t he dessert wine and spirit s and whisk again.
5. Place t he bowl over t he pan of simmering wat er and cont inue t o whisk for 810 minut es unt il
t he mixt ure is t hick and creamy and has almost t ripled in volume (youll know it s ready when
you lift t he beat ers and t he mixt ure leaves a t rail on t he surface).
6. Divide t he fruit and poaching liquor bet ween serving bowls and spoon over t he hot
zabaglione. Pass a cooks blowt orch over t he surface or place under a hot grill for a few
minut es unt il t he zabaglione t urns light ly golden. Serve immediat ely wit h amaret t i biscuit s.
RASPBERRY
MILLEFEUILLE
SERVES 46
Dessert s should always have t hat wow fact or, and t his dish is incredibly simple t o prepare, yet
looks and t ast es absolut ely st unning. By light ly dust ing t he t op of t he past ry wit h icing sugar it
caramelises t he t op and allows all t he layers t o separat e int o t he t housand leaves t hat give
t he dessert it s name.
320375g ready-rolled all-but t er puff past ry
3 t bsp icing sugar, plus ext ra t o dust
Seeds from 2 vanilla pods
600ml double cream
Zest of 1 orange
t bsp orange-flavoured liqueur, e.g. Grand Marnier
200g fresh raspberries
2. Unroll t he past ry and place on a non-st ick baking t ray. Dust generously wit h icing sugar and
bake in t he preheat ed oven for 8 minut es, t hen reduce t he t emperat ure t o 200C/Gas 6 and
cook for a furt her 712 minut es unt il t he past ry is golden and glazed. Remove and leave t o
cool slight ly on a wire rack.
3. Meanwhile, mix t he vanilla seeds int o t he cream. Add t he 3 t ablespoons of sugar and whip
t he mixt ure unt il it forms soft peaks. (Dont overbeat or it will separat e.) Add t he orange zest
and liqueur and fold in using a spat ula.
4. Spoon t he cream int o a piping bag fit t ed wit h a plain nozzle, t wist ing slowly t o move t he
cream t o t he point ed end. Chill unt il ready t o use.
5. When t he past ry has cooled, slice it very gent ly int o 3 equal-sized lengt hs wit h a bread knife.
6. Assemble t he millefeuille just before serving. Take t he piping bag from t he fridge, add a dot
of cream t o t he serving plat e t o act as glue and put a piece of past ry on t op. Pipe a layer of
cream over t he past ry and add a border of raspberries around t he out er edges. Pipe anot her
layer of cream inside t he raspberry border, t hen t op wit h anot her layer of past ry and repeat t he
cream and raspberry st ages. Finish wit h a t op layer of past ry. Serve immediat ely, dust ed wit h
more icing sugar.
HOW TO VARY THE MILLEFEUILLE FILLING
You can vary t he filling of t he millefeuille as much as you like. Use crme frache, mascarpone,
st rawberries, lime what ever t akes your fancy.
APRICOT AND
FRANGIPANE TART
SERVES 810
This almond-flavoured t art is not dissimilar t o our own Bakewell t art , which can be paired wit h
any fruit s in season: cherries, pears, peaches or, as here, apricot s. Serve warm or cold wit h a
dollop of crme frache for a simple, make-ahead pudding.
But t er, for greasing
500g sweet short crust past ry
Flour, for dust ing
4 large, or 6 small, apricot s, halved and st oned
34 t ablespoons apricot jam
FOR THE FRANGIPANE
125g unsalt ed but t er, soft ened t o room t emperat ure
125g cast er sugar
25g plain flour
125g ground almonds
1 large free-range egg, beat en
1. Light ly but t er a 25cm loose-bot t omed t art t in.
2. Roll out t he past ry on a light ly floured surface t o t he t hickness of a 1 coin (3mm). Use t he
past ry t o line t he t in, gent ly pressing it int o t he sides and leaving about 1cm overhanging t he
t op edge.
3. Use a fork t o prick t he base, t hen line wit h greaseproof paper and fill wit h ceramic baking
beans or uncooked rice. Chill for 20 minut es.
4. Meanwhile, preheat t he oven t o 200C/Gas 6.
5. When t he t art case has chilled, blind bake it in t he preheat ed oven for 15 minut es. Remove
t he paper and beans, t hen ret urn t he past ry t o t he oven for 5 minut es t o cook t he base.
6. When cooked, use a sharp knife t o t rim t he excess past ry level wit h t he t op of t he t in and
set aside t o cool.
7. Reduce t he oven set t ing t o 150C/Gas 2.
8. To make t he frangipane, cream t he but t er, sugar, flour and almonds t oget her, t hen slowly
add t he egg, mixing unt il fully incorporat ed. Allow t he frangipane t o rest for 5 minut es before
smoot hing it inside t he past ry case.
9. Cut each apricot half int o 3 or 4 wedges and arrange t hem on t op of t he frangipane, skin
side up. Push t he apricot s gent ly int o t he mixt ure, t hen bake in t he preheat ed oven for 3035
minut es unt il golden.
10. Heat t he apricot jam gent ly in a small pan for about 2 minut es unt il warmed. Remove t he
t art from t he oven and brush wit h t he melt ed jam while st ill warm.
11. Leave t he t art t o cool slight ly before removing from t he t in and serving in slices.
PIMMS JELLIES
MAKES 68
This is such a beaut iful pudding t o have in t he garden on a summers aft ernoon, especially if
served in some pret t y glasses or t eacups. Depending on t he size of your cont ainers, you may
find t he fruit float s t o t he surface. If so, fill t hem in t wo st ages, set t ing t hem in bet ween, so t hat
t he fruit is t rapped t hroughout t he jelly.
8 sheet s of leaf gelat ine
500ml lemonade
200g small st rawberries, hulled
2 small oranges
1 Granny Smit h apple, peeled, cored and quart ered
Juice of 1 lemon
200ml Pimms No.1
150ml double cream
A few mint sprigs
Short bread biscuit s, t o serve (opt ional)
1. Soft en t he gelat ine in cold wat er for about 5 minut es. Meanwhile, heat half t he lemonade
unt il almost boiling, t hen remove from t he heat . Squeeze t he wat er from t he gelat ine, t hen st ir
it int o t he hot lemonade unt il complet ely dissolved.
2. Quart er t he st rawberries and peel and segment 1 of t he oranges. Chop t he apple int o equal-
sized pieces and t oss in half of t he lemon juice.
3. Once t he lemonade and gelat ine mixt ure has cooled, st ir in t he Pimms, t he remaining
lemonade and t he lemon juice. Pass t hrough a sieve. Divide t he prepared fruit bet ween 68
moulds, t umblers or t eacups (t he number depends on t heir capacit y), t hen pour t he jelly
mixt ure over and chill for 23 hours unt il complet ely set .
4. To make t he cream, finely zest and juice t he second orange. Mix wit h t he sugar and boil in a
small pan for about 5 minut es unt il reduced t o about 2 t ablespoons. Beat int o t he mascarpone.
Soft ly whip t he double cream and fold int o t he orange mascarpone. Chill unt il ready t o use.
5. Remove t he jellies from t he fridge 2030 minut es before serving, placing t hem on small
plat es or saucers and t urning t hem out if you wish. Spoon some of t he orange cream on t op of
each jelly and garnish wit h mint leaves. Serve wit h a biscuit on t he side if you like.
IF YOU ARE LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE PARENTS OR
GRANDPARENTS WHO COOKED A LOT WHEN YOU
WERE A CHILD, IM SURE FRESH BAKING IS ONE OF THE
MOST EVOCATIVE SMELLS YOU CAN COME ACROSS.
It always t ransport s me back t o t he t imes when my mot her ran a t earoom in St rat ford-
upon-Avon, and wed come home from school t o all t hese wonderful scent s. Theres
somet hing so homely and comfort ing about t he smell of cakes cooling on wire racks, or
freshly baked bread coming out of t he oven.
It s curious how t he cycles of food fashion go. Baking used t o be one of t he first t hings
t hat cooks would mast er banana loaves and Vict oria sponges were t he st aples of every
home economics class but oft en nowadays even t hose who cook regularly dont
necessarily bake very much. Maybe t hey see it as being t oo t ime-consuming or t oo much
hassle, and it s t rue t hat food manufact urers have gone out of t heir way t o make sure you
need never be short of a sweet t reat . But baking is about so much more t han flapjacks
and t eat ime t reat s. It opens up a whole world of savoury dishes t oo, and once you mast er
t he art of t he perfect past ry or light est sponge, your cooking will be all t he st ronger for it .
A lot of people give up before t heyve even st art ed and claim t hey cant bake, full
st op. My hands are t oo warm, t heyll say, or My kit chens t oo cold. It s all rubbish, of
course. The t rut h is t hat baking, more t han any ot her discipline in t he kit chen, is a science
and youve got t o follow t he formula. Just like in t hose chemist ry lessons you hat ed at
school, accuracy is all-import ant . You need t he right ingredient s and you need t o combine
t hem in t he right way. Self-raising flour is not same as plain flour; plain flour is not same as
bread flour. If you dont put enough baking powder int o a cake mix, it wont rise; put t oo
much in and it will rise t oo much and t hen collapse. Im an inst inct ive cook, and I judge most
t hings by eye, but baking is t he one t ime youll see me reaching for t he scales. A bit t oo
much flour in sweet corn pancakes is not going t o make a whole world of difference, but
t oo much flour in hazelnut short bread and it will. So follow t he recipe, pay at t ent ion and
weigh out t o t he final gram. This is no t ime t o come over all creat ive. St ick t o t he rules and
youll get perfect result s.
BREAD
I absolut ely love making bread. Theres somet hing so sat isfying magical almost about
t he process. You can really swit ch off and lose yourself in it . I learnt my craft as a 22-year-
old working in Paris. Id st art at midnight and by 7 a.m. had t o have produced whit e, brown,
sourdough and cheese breads wort hy of a t hree-st ar est ablishment . That s a lot of
pressure, and t he sense of danger, t hat everyt hing would go wrong, never quit e left me.
But I did learn t o have no fear and t o get st uck in and enjoy it . That s t he secret .
If you ever st op t o read t he list of ingredient s in your average supermarket bread, wit h
it s emulsifiers and fungicides and st abilisers, youll be amazed at how lit t le goes int o a
proper old-fashioned loaf: flour, salt , yeast and wat er. And t hat s it . If ever you needed an
incent ive t o make your own, youve got it right t here.
Yeast is what gives most breads t heir lift and t ext ure, and t his t akes t ime t o wake up
and feed on t he sugars in t he flour. So t he quickest and easiest breads of all are t hose
wit hout yeast soda bread and flat breads being t wo of t he most common. As it s name
suggest s, soda bread, which is t ypical of Ireland, relies on bicarbonat e of soda t o aerat e it .
It s a simple combinat ion of ingredient s t hat barely even need kneading, yet it produces
t his fant ast ically dense, brooding loaf. Flat bread is ent irely unleavened and can be ready
t o eat wit hin 30 minut es.
Of breads made wit h yeast , t he It alian focaccia is a good one t o st art wit h. It s a very
simple hands-on bread t hat produces really impressive result s, wit h a lovely silky, rich
t ext ure. Because it s baked in a t ray, it s easy t o shape you simply massage it int o t he
corners and you can t op it wit h almost anyt hing t hat t akes your fancy, from t omat oes,
olives and rosemary t o bacon, onion or chorizo. Yes, you can buy bread, but once youve
t ried t his, youll be addict ed.
Making bread can also be a good workout , as kneading requires a bit of effort . This is
where you st ret ch and aerat e t he dough by pushing it away from you wit h t he heel of your
hand, t hen pulling it back over it self and pinching it in. You repeat t his process unt il t he
dough feels smoot h and elast ic and comes cleanly away from t he work surface. This can
t ake anyt hing up t o 15 minut es.
PASTRY
The cornerst one of any proud home cook. You can buy very good ready-made past ry
t hese days, and I must admit I seldom bot her making my own puff past ry at home (Ill only
buy a good all-but t er version, t hough), but short crust is anot her mat t er. Rich, but t ery and
robust , it is one of t he st aples of t he kit chen and is very versat ile and easy t o make. There
is a cert ain knack t o making past ry, but once you crack it , it will make such a difference t o
your cooking.
For savoury short crust past ry, I normally use t he rub-in met hod, where you rub cold
but t er int o flour using your fingert ips unt il t he mixt ure resembles fine breadcrumbs. It s
import ant not t o handle t he mixt ure any more t han necessary at t his st age or t he but t er
will become oily, result ing in t ough past ry (t hat s where t he hot hands myt h comes in).
Then you add enough wat er (or beat en egg if you want a richer result , alt hough I dont
t hink it oft en needs it ) for t he dough t o come t oget her. This is anot her crucial st age t hat
you will learn t o judge wit h pract ice. If t he dough is t oo dry now, it will end up t oo crumbly
t o roll or crack as you cook it . If it is t oo wet , it may be easier t o handle, but when you cook
it , t he wat er will evaporat e and t he dough will shrink in t he oven. You can do all t his mixing
in a food processor, but it is good t o do it by hand so t hat you learn t o ident ify t he t ext ure
you are looking for. Give t he dough a very quick knead, folding it and pushing it away wit h
t he heel of your hand, unt il it is homogenous.
Next , it is really import ant t o allow t he dough t o relax for about 20 minut es in t he
fridge so t hat t he but t er and flour can synchronise t oget her. The st rands of glut en will
absorb some of t he moist ure, making t hem more durable and less likely t o crack when you
roll out t he dough. Once rest ed, it will be much firmer. No mat t er how t empt ing, you
shouldnt rush t his st age.
Next comes t he rolling out . Sprinkle t he work surface wit h flour, place your flat t ened disc of
dough in front of you and, using a floured rolling pin, roll once away from you. Give t he
dough a one-eight h t urn and roll again. Turn, roll, t urn, roll, t urn, roll, and so on, re-flouring
t he pin if t he dough st art s t o st ick, unt il you have t he size and shape you require. This
rot at ing process will ensure you have evenly rolled dough.
To line your t in, lift t he past ry up by half-rolling it ont o t he pin, t hen drape it over t he
t in, allowing it t o overhang t he edges. Take a lit t le ball of left over dough and use it like a
soft mallet t o gent ly push t he dough int o t he corners t o ensure a snug fit . Be sure not t o
t rap any air under t he past ry or it will bubble up when it is cooking.
Alt hough ceramic pie dishes may look at t ract ive, t hey are poor conduct ors of heat
and oft en result in a soggy base, and t hat s t he last t hing you want . Always use met al
cont ainers, eit her a flan t in wit h a removable base, or an ovenproof frying pan, and place
t hem on a preheat ed met al t ray rat her t han direct ly on a rack. This will ensure more heat
is direct ed at t he bot t om of t he past ry and result in a crisper base.
Recipes will oft en call for you t o cook t he past ry blind, which means giving it an init ial
cooking wit hout it s filling. This is part icularly t he case when you are adding a liquid filling,
which would ot herwise make t he past ry soggy. To do t his, line t he past ry case wit h foil or
baking paper and fill it wit h somet hing inert t hat will weigh it down. You can buy special
ceramic baking beans, but dried rice or lent ils will work just as well (st ore t hem for use
again but dont eat t hem). Aft er 1015 minut es, t ake out t he beans and paper and cook
t he past ry case uncovered for anot her 510 minut es t o crisp up t he base. (To seal t he
base even more, you can brush it wit h beat en egg and cook for anot her minut e.) Trim t he
excess past ry wit h a knife. The past ry case is now ready for filling.
Sweet short crust is very similar t o savoury short crust , but is enriched wit h cast er or
icing sugar and egg. This one I t end t o make in t he processor, creaming t he but t er, sugar
and egg t oget her first , t hen adding t he flour and pulsing briefly t o bring t he dough
t oget her. This result s in a slight ly more pliable, user-friendly dough. It will be slight ly less
flaky, perhaps, but easier t o handle and st ill very crisp, as you want any good past ry t o be.
You t hen t reat it just as you would a savoury short crust .
These are just beginnings, of course. You can add any flavours you like. Try
subst it ut ing a quart er of t he flour wit h ground nut s or cocoa powder, or add some
chopped t hyme, lavender, lemon zest or vanilla seeds. Take it in any direct ion you like.
CAKES AND BISCUITS
There are various ways of making cakes, but t he most common is t he creaming met hod,
where you beat t oget her but t er and sugar, add eggs one by one and t hen fold in t he
sift ed flour. Air is t he key ingredient here, t he t hing t hat gives cakes t heir light ness, so
everyt hing you do is geared t owards incorporat ing as much of it as possible.
Unlike in past ry, but t er should be at room t emperat ure; t oo cold and it wont cream
properly, t oo warm and it will be oily and coat t oo much of t he flour. St art by beat ing it unt il
creamy, t hen add t he sugar and whisk for at least 5 minut es, ideally wit h an elect ric
beat er, unt il it is pale and fluffy. It s so import ant t o st art t his aerat ion process properly at
t he beginning, and it s where so much cake-making fails. The eggs should also be at room
t emperat ure or else t hey are more likely t o curdle when you add t hem t o t he but t er and
sugar mixt ure. (If t hat st art s happening, add a t ablespoon of flour at t his st age t o bind t he
mixt ure t oget her again.)
Once t he eggs are incorporat ed, sift in t he self-raising flour and use a met al spoon or
spat ula t o cut and fold t he mixt ure t oget her. Again, you are t rying t o keep as much air as
possible in t he mix, so dont be t oo heavy-handed. You are looking for what s called a
dropping consist ency, when t he mixt ure falls slowly from your spat ula, so you might need
t o let t he mixt ure down wit h a lit t le milk. Again, wit h pract ice youll learn t o judge t his.
Have a but t ered cake t in ready and dust t he inside wit h flour so t hat not hing will st ick,
t hen spoon in t he cake mix. Level it out wit h your spat ula and t hen bang t he t in on t he
work surface a couple of t imes t o help set t le t he mixt ure and get rid of any air pocket s
t hat will make t he cake rise unevenly.
You can always smell when a cake is ready, so t rust your inst inct s more t han t he t ime
given in a recipe. All ovens and flours vary, so it is impossible t o give ent irely accurat e
cooking t imes. When you t hink t he cake is cooked, t ake it out and insert a knife blade or
met al skewer int o t he middle. If it comes out clean, t he cake is ready. If not , put it back in
for five minut es more.
Biscuit s oft en have t he same mix of ingredient s but t er, flour, sugar and eggs but
you change t he chemist ry of t hem by incorporat ing less air t o produce a short er, crumblier
t ext ure. That means less beat ing, and using plain flour inst ead of self-raising. The key
t hing t o remember when making t hings like Lemon Thyme Short bread (see here) is t o
make even-sized biscuit s so t hat t hey cook at t he same rat e. A good t rick wit h a solid
dough such as t his is t o roll it int o a cylinder, wrap it in cling film and t hen chill it . This way,
you can not only cut beaut iful, even slices of dough, but also, because t he dough is chilled,
t he biscuit s are more likely t o keep t heir shape as t hey cook.
BAKING
Soda bread
Beef empanadas
Home-made crumpet
Lemon polent a cake
OLIVE, TOMATO AND
ROSEMARY FOCACCIA
SERVES 68
Focaccia is a great place t o st art when making bread. It is hands-on but very quick and t ast y.
Adding oil t o t he whit e dough makes t he finished loaf silky soft , and t he semolina gives it a
more rust ic edge. You can finish your dough wit h anyt hing from t omat oes, rosemary and
roast ed garlic t o olives, or even salami. Some people like t o push t hese int o t he dough, but I
t hink t hat st ops t he aerat ion so I leave mine on t op.
500g st rong bread flour
1 heaped t bsp coarse semolina
2 7g sachet s dried yeast
50ml olive oil, plus a lit t le ext ra
75g pit t ed black olives, sliced
150g sunblush t omat oes
23 rosemary sprigs, leaves only
1. Thoroughly mix t he flour, semolina and yeast wit h a couple of generous pinches of salt . Mix
320ml warm wat er wit h t he olive oil. Make a well in t he middle of t he flour mixt ure and gradually
add t he liquid. (It s easiest t o mix t his t oget her wit h a fork t o st art wit h and t hen, when it is just
coming t oget her, use your hands t o make it int o a ball.) Tip t he dough out ont o a light ly floured
surface and knead for about 10 minut es unt il smoot h, elast ic and springy t o t ouch.
2. Place t he dough in a large floured mixing bowl and leave t o rise in a warm place for 3060
minut es unt il doubled in size.
4. Place t he risen dough in an oiled baking t ray (about 28 20cm) and sprinkle wit h a lit t le salt .
Grease your fingers wit h a lit t le olive oil and prod out t he dough t o t he edges of t he t ray.
5. Press t he olives and sunblush t omat oes int o t he dough so t hat t hey are slight ly poking
above t he surface. Season wit h salt and pepper and scat t er over t he rosemary leaves.
6. Drizzle t he bread wit h a lit t le ext ra olive oil and place in t he preheat ed oven for 30 minut es
unt il golden and cooked t hrough.
7. Turn out of t he t ray, t hen t ransfer t o a board, slice and serve.
SODA BREAD
MAKES 1 LOAF
This t radit ional Irish loaf uses bicarbonat e of soda inst ead of yeast as it s raising agent . The
advant age is t hat you dont have t o wait for it t o rise or prove, but t he result ing loaf will not
keep as long and is best eat en t he same day. If you cant buy but t ermilk, use ordinary milk
inst ead, but add a level t easpoon of cream of t art ar.
350g plain flour, plus ext ra for dust ing
150g wholemeal flour
1 t sp bicarbonat e of soda
1 t sp t able salt
450ml but t ermilk
2. Sift t he dry ingredient s int o a bowl and make a well in t he middle. Reserve 2 t ablespoons of
t he but t ermilk and add t he rest t o t he bowl, mixing light ly wit h a fork as you add it . (Be careful
not t o overwork t he dough but make sure all t he dry ingredient s are mixed in. Add t he
remaining but t ermilk if necessary.)
3. Tip t he dough on t o a floured work surface and knead gent ly for 30 seconds t o combine. Do
not overwork. Line a baking sheet wit h baking paper and dust wit h flour. Form t he bread int o a
round, place on t he t ray and flat t en slight ly. Use a serrat ed knife t o cut a deep cross in t he t op
of t he loaf.
4. Place in t he preheat ed oven and bake for 3035 minut es unt il t he soda bread is golden on
t he out side and cooked t hrough. A good way t o check is by t apping t he base it should sound
hollow when cooked.
5. Cool on a wire rack before enjoying warm or cold.
MOZZARELLA AND
ROSEMARY PIZZA
MAKES 4
Making your own pizza dough couldnt be simpler, and is always so much nicer t han buying a
ready-made base. Most domest ic ovens dont get hot enough t o achieve t hat really crisp crust
flecked wit h scorch marks, so I t end t o cook pizzas in a very hot frying pan and finish t hem
under t he grill.
2 7g sachet s dried yeast
1 t bsp golden cast er sugar
500g st rong bread flour or It alian 00 flour
1 t bsp fine sea salt
FOR THE MOZZARELLA AND ROSEMARY TOPPING
8 t bsp t omat o passat a
2 balls of mozzarella cheese
2 rosemary sprigs
Olive oil
ALTERNATIVE GORGONZOLA AND RADICCHIO TOPPING
150g Gorgonzola cheese
2 small heads of radicchio, shredded
2 rosemary sprigs
Olive oil
ALTERNATIVE MEAT AND CHILLI TOPPING
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely sliced
6 slices of salami
1 ball of mozzarella cheese
Olive oil
1. First make t he pizza dough. Mix t oget her t he yeast and sugar wit h 325ml warm wat er and
leave for a couple of minut es. Meanwhile, sift t he flour int o a mixing bowl, add t he salt and
make a well in t he middle. Pour t he oil int o t he well, followed by t he yeast mix. Using a spoon,
bring t he flour int o t he middle from t he sides, mixing slowly, bit by bit , unt il a dough begins t o
form. Once you reach t his st age, work t he rest t oget her wit h your hands.
2. When combined, t ip t he dough ont o a floured work surface and knead for 10 minut es unt il
smoot h. Clean out your mixing bowl, dust it wit h flour and put t he dough back int o t he bowl.
Cover wit h a t ea t owel and leave t o rise in a warm place for about 1 hour unt il doubled in size.
3. When t he dough is risen punch out t he air and t ip ont o a floured work surface. Knead t he
dough for 12 minut es t o push out any excess air, t hen wrap in cling film and chill if not using
immediat ely.
4. When youre ready t o make t he pizzas, divide t he dough int o 4 equal balls and keep t hem
covered. Put a large (26cm) grillproof frying pan on t he heat (you can cook 2 bases at a t ime if
you have 2 pans) and roll out one ball of dough on a floured work surface wit h a floured rolling
pin unt il it s t he same size as your pan. Pour a lit t le olive oil int o t he pan and add t he pizza
base, pressing it down. Cook over a medium heat for 58 minut es unt il t he base crisps and t he
dough st art s t o cook t hrough and bubble up.
5. Spread 2 t ablespoons of t he passat a over t he pizza base. Tear t he mozzarella balls in half,
t hen t ear one half int o 4 pieces and dot t hem over t he base. Season wit h pepper and scat t er
over a few rosemary leaves. Remove from t he pan and set aside. Repeat wit h t he remaining
pizzas. (If you want t o t ry t he alt ernat ive t oppings, build t hem up in a similar way.)
6. Drizzle t he pizzas wit h a lit t le olive oil before placing under a preheat ed grill. Cook for about
4 minut es unt il t he t opping is golden and bubbling and t he dough along t he edges is nice and
crisp.
7. Serve warm, cut int o slices, and drizzle wit h ext ra olive oil wit h a couple of ext ra rosemary
sprigs sprinkled on t op.
LEEK AND PANCETTA
QUICHE
SERVES 2
Quiche is a really versat ile dish t hat you can t ake in any direct ion you like just be generous
wit h t he filling: you want about t wo-t hirds flavouring ingredient s t o one-t hird cust ard. Quiches
are oft en bet t er t he next day, once t he cust ard has had a chance t o set properly and t he
flavours t o mingle.
200g pancet t a lardons
2 leeks, t rimmed and finely chopped
4 eggs
100g Gruyre cheese, finely grat ed
2 t bsp chopped flat leaf parsley
FOR THE SHORTCRUST PASTRY
Pinch of salt
100g but t er, at room t emperat ure, cubed
1. First make t he past ry. Sift t he flour and salt int o a mixing bowl. Using your fingert ips, rub t he
but t er int o t he flour, lift ing t he mixt ure up and dropping it back int o t he bowl you want t o
keep t he mixt ure light and airy. When it resembles fine breadcrumbs, mix in 23 t ablespoons of
cold wat er. Bring t he past ry t oget her, t hen knead light ly on a floured work surface t o creat e a
smoot h, solid ball. Wrap in cling film and chill for 20 minut es.
2. Preheat t he oven t o 200C/Gas 6. Oil a 25cm loose-bot t omed t art t in.
3. Flour a work surface and roll out t he past ry t o t he t hickness of a 1 coin (3mm). Use t o line
t he prepared t in, pushing it int o t he corners and sides wit h a small ball of left over past ry. Leave
some excess past ry overhanging t he edges, t hen prick t he base wit h a fork. Chill for 10
minut es.
4. Line t he chilled past ry case wit h greaseproof paper and fill wit h ceramic baking beans or
uncooked rice. Blind bake in t he preheat ed oven for 1015 minut es. Remove t he paper and
beans, t hen bake for a furt her 58 minut es unt il golden. Trim off t he excess past ry wit h a
sharp knife, t hen set t he case aside.
5. Meanwhile, fry t he pancet t a in a large oiled frying pan over a medium heat for 34 minut es
unt il coloured and almost crisp. Add t he leek and saut for 34 minut es unt il soft and
complet ely cooked t hrough. Drain t o remove excess oil if necessary.
6. Mix t he eggs and cream t oget her in a bowl. Season wit h a pinch of salt and pepper. Add
t hree-quart ers of t he Gruyre and st ir in t he leek mixt ure. Mix well t hen add t he parsley. Tast e
and adjust t he seasoning as necessary. Pour t he mixt ure int o t he cooked past ry case, sprinkle
t he t op wit h t he remaining cheese and cook in t he preheat ed oven for 1520 minut es unt il
golden and set .
7. Remove t he quiche and allow t o cool slight ly before serving.
HOW TO MAKE SHORTCRUST IN A FOOD PROCESSOR
Blend t he flour, but t er and salt t oget her first , t hen add t he cold wat er and pulse unt il combined.
Tip t he dough ont o a floured surface and knead one or t wice t o bring it t oget her in a smoot h
ball.
BEEF EMPANADAS
MAKES 18 EMPANADAS
The empanada resembles a past y and probably st art ed out in Spain but soon spread
t hroughout Lat in America and Asia. The piquant chimichurri sauce is a great accompaniment .
2 375g packet s all-but t er puff past ry
1 onion, peeled and finely diced
Pinch of ground cumin
t sp paprika
300g minced beef
4 t bsp pit t ed green olives, chopped
t sp dried chilli flakes
Pinch of sugar
2 hardboiled eggs, finely chopped
1 large egg, beat en
FOR THE CHIMICHURRI SAUCE
Bunch of flat leaf parsley
1 t bsp chopped fresh oregano leaves, or 1 t sp dried oregano
1 t bsp lemon juice
5 t bsp olive oil
1. Roll out bot h blocks of past ry t o a t hickness of 3mm and cut out eight een discs, using an
11cm cut t er or saucer. Cover t he discs wit h cling film and chill while you prepare t he filling.
2. Heat a saucepan over a medium heat and add a lit t le olive oil. Sweat t he onion and garlic
gent ly for about 5 minut es unt il soft but not coloured. Add t he cumin, cinnamon and paprika
and st ir unt il aromat ic.
3. Add t he beef, season wit h salt and pepper and cook for about 5 minut es unt il light ly
browned. Mix in t he olives, oregano, chilli flakes, sugar and eggs. Tast e and adjust t he
seasoning as necessary. Leave t o cool.
4. Once t he beef has cooled, spoon about 1 t ablespoon ont o each past ry disc, leaving a 1cm
border around t he edge. Brush beat en egg around half t he border, t hen fold t he past ry over
and press t he edges t oget her t o seal and creat e a half-moon shape. Crimp t he edges,
removing any air pocket s as you go.
5. Chill t he empanadas for 20 minut es t o firm up. Meanwhile, preheat t he oven t o 180C/Gas 4.
6. Place t he empanadas on a baking t ray. Make a st eam hole in t he t op of each one wit h a
skewer, t hen brush wit h beat en egg. Bake in t he preheat ed oven for 1820 minut es unt il t he
past ry is golden brown.
7. Meanwhile, make t he chimichurri. Place t he parsley, garlic and fresh oregano (if using) in a
small food processor and roughly chop. Add t he rest of t he ingredient s and blit z briefly t o
combine. Tast e and season. (If using dried oregano, add it at t his st age.)
8. Once t he empanadas are cooked, cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or cold wit h t he
chimichurri on t he side t o spoon over or dip int o.
EASY CHICKEN PASTILLA
SERVES 4
Chicken inst ead of beef, filo past ry inst ead of puff, but t he concept is t he same as for t he
empanada. In Morocco, where t he past illa originat ed, t hey are fond of mixing sweet ness and
spice in savoury dishes hence t he combinat ion of cinnamon, sugar and almonds in t hese
delicat e parcels.
4 skinless, boneless chicken t highs
Olive oil, for drizzling and frying
1 onion, peeled and finely sliced
1 t sp ground cinnamon, plus ext ra t o dust
100g t oast ed flaked almonds
25g but t er, melt ed
10 sheet s filo past ry
Icing sugar and/or ext ra ground cinnamon for dust ing (opt ional), t o serve
1. Preheat t he oven t o 200/Gas 6.
2. First cook t he chicken. Place t he t highs in a roast ing t ray, drizzle wit h oil and season wit h
salt and pepper. Roast in t he preheat ed oven for 35 minut es unt il golden brown and cooked
t hrough. Set aside t o cool, but keep t he oven on. When t he t highs are cool enough t o handle,
chop t hem int o bit e-sized pieces.
3. Heat a wide pan over a medium heat and add a dash of oil. Sweat t he onion and ginger for 8
minut es unt il soft ened. St ir in t he cinnamon and sugar. Add t he chicken, season and cover wit h
t he st ock. Bring t o a simmer and cook for 5 minut es so t hat t he st ock is reduced by half. St ir
t he eggs int o t he chicken mixt ure as t he st ock reduces so t hat t hey are well combined. When
t he st ock is reduced, add t he almonds, t hen t ast e and adjust t he seasoning as necessary.
Leave t o cool.
4. Brush a 22cm cake t in or pie dish wit h some of t he melt ed but t er. Line t he dish wit h 4 sheet s
of filo, brushing melt ed but t er bet ween each layer and let t ing t he ends of t he filo drape over
t he sides.
5. Place half t he chicken mixt ure in t he past ry cases, t hen cover wit h 4 more sheet s of filo,
brushing wit h but t er and overlapping t he edges as before. Flat t en down and spoon in t he
remaining chicken mix. Cover wit h t he remaining sheet s of filo, brushing wit h melt ed but t er
bet ween t he layers. Fold t he overhanging filo ont o t he t op of t he pie, t ucking any ot her edges
int o t he sides. Give one final brush wit h melt ed but t er before placing in t he preheat ed oven.
Cook for 1015 minut es unt il golden and crisp on t op.
6. Remove from t he oven, place a plat e over t he dish and, using an oven clot h, flip t he dish
upside down t o t urn out t he past illa. Slide it from t he plat e ont o a non-st ick baking sheet . The
bot t om should now be facing up. Cont inue t o cook for a furt her 510 minut es unt il golden.
7. Remove and cool before serving dust ed wit h a lit t le icing sugar and ext ra cinnamon if
desired.
FLATBREADS WITH
LEMON THYME RICOTTA
SERVES 24
Flat breads are t he simplest of all breads t o make because, as t he name suggest s, you dont
need any raising agent at all. They are simply a mix of flour, wat er and oil, and are cooked on
t he hob or a fire rat her t han in an oven. Ive added saut ed leeks t o t he dough here for ext ra
int erest . Serve wit h any curry or Lebanese rice dish, or simply wit h ricot t a, lemon and t hyme.
1 leek, t rimmed and halved lengt hways
15g but t er
3 t bsp olive oil
TO SERVE
Zest of lemon
1. Finely slice t he leek int o half-moons. Saut in a medium-hot pan wit h t he but t er, a
t ablespoon of t he oil and some seasoning. Cook for 34 minut es unt il t ender and wilt ed.
Remove from t he heat .
2. Meanwhile, mix t oget her t he flour, t he remaining olive oil and a couple of pinches of salt and
pepper. Add t he leeks and bring t he mixt ure t oget her wit h approximat ely 100ml warm wat er,
being careful t o mix in any lumps of flour t horoughly. If t he mixt ure is t oo st icky, add a lit t le more
flour.
3. Knead t he dough for 23 minut es on a clean floured work surface unt il smoot h and elast ic.
Cover and leave t o rest for 20 minut es.
4. Divide t he rest ed dough int o 4 balls and roll t hese out on a floured work surface unt il 23mm
t hick.
5. Heat a dry, non-st ick frying pan and cook t he flat breads one at a t ime over a medium heat
for 12 minut es on each side unt il t hey begin t o bubble slight ly and t urn golden brown. Keep
warm and cook t he remaining flat breads in t he same way.
6. Serve t he flat breads warm wit h spoonfuls of ricot t a sprinkled wit h t hyme leaves and lemon
zest along wit h a pinch of salt and pepper.
FRESH GINGER SPONGE
CAKE
MAKES 8 SLICES
Every cook should mast er how t o make a light , even sponge. Once you have, you can use it as
a canvas for any flavours you like. Chocolat e and ginger is a classic combinat ion t hat works
really well here.
175g but t er, at room t emperat ure, plus ext ra for greasing
175g cast er sugar
3 eggs, beat en
1 t sp vanilla ext ract
About 2 t bsp milk, t o loosen
FOR THE ICING
200g plain chocolat e, finely chopped
300ml double cream
2 t bsp golden syrup
FOR THE GINGER CREAM FILLING
300ml double cream
2 t bsp icing sugar
3cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and finely grat ed
1. Preheat t he oven t o 180C/Gas 4. Light ly but t er and flour a deep 20cm loose-bot t omed
cake t in.
2. Cream t he but t er and sugar unt il light and fluffy. Beat in t he eggs one at a t ime, add t he
vanilla ext ract and mix well.
3. Sift in t he flour and baking powder and fold in gent ly using a spat ula unt il complet ely
combined. Add a lit t le milk, if necessary, t o creat e a bat t er of dropping consist ency.
4. Pour t he mixt ure int o t he cake t in, smoot hing it down wit h t he back of a spat ula. Knock t he
t in on t he work surface t o get rid of any air pocket s and t o creat e a level mix. Bake in t he
preheat ed oven for 25 minut es unt il golden and just firm t o t ouch.
5. To t est if t he cake is cooked, insert a knife or met al skewer int o t he middle: it should come
out clean. Remove from t he oven and leave t o cool in t he t in for 10 minut es before t urning out
ont o a wire rack t o cool complet ely.
6. Make t he icing while t he cake is baking because it needs t o t hicken for 30 minut es before
use. (If it is t oo runny, it will pour off t he sides and look messy.) Put t he chocolat e and but t er
int o a heat proof bowl. Place t he cream and golden syrup in a saucepan and st ir over a medium
heat unt il t hey come just t o t he boil. Pour immediat ely int o t he bowl, st irring unt il t he chocolat e
and but t er have complet ely melt ed, and t he mixt ure is t hick and glossy. Set aside.
7. To make t he filling, whip t he cream and icing sugar t o soft peaks, t hen mix in t he ginger.
8. Once t he sponge is cool, cut it in half horizont ally. Spread t he ginger cream over one half,
t hen place t he ot her half on t op, pressing down light ly t o push t he cream t o t he edges.
9. Using a spat ula, spread t he icing over t he cake and allow t o set before serving.
HOME-MADE CRUMPET
SERVES 24
Dripping wit h but t er and jam, crumpet s were t he sort of t eat ime t reat we all grew up wit h and
loved. Making individual crumpet s can be a hassle, so it s much more fun t o make a giant one
t o share. Topped wit h a quick home-made st rawberry jam and a dollop of crme frache, t he
crumpet t ruly is wort h rediscovering.
175g st rong whit e flour
t sp salt
t sp bicarbonat e of soda
1 t sp dried yeast
125ml warm milk
Oil, for frying
But t er
Crme frache, t o serve
FOR THE QUICK STRAWBERRY JAM
2 heaped t bsp cast er sugar
225g st rawberries, hulled and sliced in half
Zest of 1 lemon and juice of
1 t sp balsamic vinegar
1. Sift t he flour, salt , sugar and bicarbonat e of soda int o a bowl. Make a well in t he middle, add
t he yeast , and slowly pour in t he warm milk mixed wit h 150ml warm wat er. Draw t he flour int o
t he cent re, mixing t horoughly, and beat t o a t hick bat t er. (You may need t o add up t o anot her
100ml warm wat er if t he mixt ure is very t hick.) Whisk for a couple of minut es unt il smoot h.
Cover and leave t o rise in a warm place for about 1 hour, unt il it has almost doubled in size and
has a spongy consist ency.
2. Meanwhile, make t he jam. Heat t he sugar in a frying pan for 34 minut es unt il caramelised
and golden. Turn t he heat down and add t he st rawberries, coat ing t hem in t he caramel. Cook
for about 10 minut es unt il t he st rawberries are t ender and collapsing slight ly and t he sauce is
nice and syrupy. Add t he lemon zest and juice followed by a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.
Cont inue t o heat for 57 minut es unt il t he mixt ure has reduced t o t he consist ency of jam.
Leave t o cool.
3. Heat a large non-st ick frying pan over a medium heat and add a lit t le oil. St ir t he bat t er and
pour int o t he pan. Cook for 1015 minut es on a low heat t o prevent burning unt il t he bat t er is
dry and t he surface is set wit h lit t le holes. Dot a few lit t le pieces of but t er around t he out side
edge of t he crumpet , and when t his has melt ed, flip t he crumpet over and cook on t he ot her
side for 12 minut es.
4. Serve t he crumpet wit h t he quick st rawberry jam and crme frache.
HOW TO MAKE INDIVIDUAL CRUMPETS
If you want t o make several small crumpet s, drop individual spoonfuls of t he bat t er int o t he pan
and reduce t he cooking t ime t o 710 minut es before flipping over. You might want t o use a
greased met al ring or biscuit cut t er t o help hold t he mixt ure and prevent t he crumpet s from
being t oo t hin.
LEMON POLENTA CAKE
SERVES 16
This is a classic cake t hat works well at t eat ime but even bet t er as a pudding served wit h a
spoonful of mascarpone or crme frache spiked wit h vanilla seeds. The almonds give t he cake
a moist ness you just dont get wit h flour, and t he polent a cont ribut es a slight crunch as well as
a rich yellow colour.
250g unsalt ed but t er, soft ened, plus ext ra for greasing
100g polent a
250g ground almonds
310g cast er sugar
3 large eggs
Zest of 3 lemons and juice of 2
1 vanilla pod, split
1. Preheat t he oven t o 180C/Gas 4. But t er a 23cm round cake t in and line wit h greaseproof
paper.
2. Mix t he polent a, baking powder and ground almonds in a bowl and set aside.
3. Using an elect ric whisk or wooden spoon, beat t oget her t he but t er and 250g of t he sugar for
510 minut es unt il light and fluffy. Light ly beat t he eggs, t hen beat t hem int o t he but t er
mixt ure a spoonful at a t ime, ensuring it is well incorporat ed before adding t he next spoonful. (If
t he mixt ure looks like it s split t ing, beat in a spoonful of t he polent a mixt ure before cont inuing
wit h t he eggs.)
4. When t he eggs have been combined, beat in t he polent a mixt ure. Finally, add t he lemon zest
and t he juice of one lemon.
5. Bake in t he preheat ed oven for 4060 minut es unt il golden brown and just firm t o t ouch. To
t est if t he cake is cooked, insert a knife or met al skewer int o t he middle: it should come out
clean and t he edge of t he cake should come away easily from t he side of t he t in. Remove from
t he oven and leave t o cool in t he t in.
6. Make a syrup by heat ing t he remaining lemon juice and sugar wit h t he vanilla pod in a
saucepan unt il t he sugar has dissolved. Prick t he t op of t he cake wit h a fork and pour t he
syrup over it . Leave t o cool complet ely before t urning out of t he t in.
LEMON THYME SHORTBREAD
MAKES ABOUT 20 FINGERS
You can add all sort s of flavourings t o short bread, from vanilla and cocoa powder t o hazelnut s
and almonds. Herbs are good t oo: rosemary and lavender bot h work well, as does lemon t hyme,
which gives t he biscuit s a lovely delicat e perfume.
340g plain flour, plus ext ra for rolling
t sp fine sea salt
225g unsalt ed but t er, soft ened, plus ext ra for greasing
140g cast er sugar, plus ext ra t o sprinkle
2 t bsp finely chopped lemon t hyme
1. Sift t he flour int o a bowl wit h t he salt and set aside. Put t he but t er and sugar in a mixing
bowl and beat wit h an elect ric mixer unt il smoot h and creamy.
2. Turn t he mixer t o it s lowest set t ing and, wit h t he mot or running, add t he lemon t hyme, t hen
t he flour, a lit t le at a t ime. St op mixing as soon as t he dough comes t oget her. Shape int o a
flat t ened ball, wrap in cling film and chill for at least 20 minut es.
3. Meanwhile, preheat t he oven t o 180C/Gas 4.
4. For short bread fingers, gent ly pack t he dough int o a light ly but t ered Swiss roll t in (roughly 30
20cm). Score t he surface t o mark out t he fingers and prick all over wit h a fork. If you want t o
make circular biscuit s, roll out t he dough on a light ly floured board t o 57mm t hick, t hen st amp
out t he rounds using a 6cm cut t er. Transfer t o 2 light ly but t ered baking sheet s, leaving a lit t le
space bet ween each biscuit , t hen prick t hem wit h a fork.
5. Bake for 1520 minut es unt il pale golden, checking oft en as ovens vary and t he short bread
can easily burn. Cool in t he t in or on t he sheet unt il firm, t hen t ransfer t o a wire rack t o cool
complet ely.
6. Sprinkle wit h cast er sugar, if you like, and st ore in an airt ight cont ainer.
INDULGENT MINI
CHOCOLATE TARTS
WITH PEANUT BRITTLE
MAKES 10
These small chocolat e t art s are fant ast ic at t eat ime, t he perfect combinat ion of rich, crumbly
past ry, smoot h ganache and crunchy peanut t opping. It s so easy t o make your own sweet
short crust past ry in a processor, but shop-bought past ry made wit h all but t er will work as well.
Oil, for greasing
400g plain chocolat e, broken up
60g but t er, cubed
2 t bsp cast er sugar (opt ional)
FOR THE SWEET PASTRY
125g but t er
90g cast er sugar
1 egg
FOR THE PEANUT BRITTLE
150g cast er sugar
100g salt ed peanut s, roughly chopped
1. First make t he past ry. Whiz t he but t er and sugar in a food processor unt il just combined.
Add t he egg and whiz for 30 seconds. Add t he flour and process for a few seconds unt il t he
dough just comes t oget her (add 1 t ablespoon of cold wat er if it seems t oo dry). Knead light ly
on a floured surface, t hen shape int o a flat disc. Wrap in cling film and chill for 30 minut es.
2. Preheat t he oven t o 190C/Gas 5. Light ly grease t en 8cm flut ed loose-bot t omed mini t art
t ins. Roll out t he past ry as t hinly as possible on a floured work surface and cut out 10 small
discs using an 11cm flut ed cut t er. Line t he t ins wit h t he past ry, allowing it t o overhang t he
edges, t hen prick t he base wit h a fork and rest for 20 minut es in t he fridge. (They should be
really firm and cold so t hat you can avoid having t o blind bake t hem.)
3. Bake t he rest ed t art cases in t he preheat ed oven for 12 minut es unt il golden. Use a sharp
knife t o t rim off t he excess past ry, t hen cool t he cases in t heir t ins on a wire rack.
4. While t he t art s are cooking, make t he peanut brit t le. Line a baking sheet wit h greaseproof
paper or a light ly oiled sheet of foil. Put t he sugar int o a dry frying pan over a medium-high heat
for 34 minut es and allow it t o caramelise wit hout st irring. Once t he caramel begins t o form,
swirl it around t he pan t o ensure it colours evenly. Aft er 23 minut es, when it s beginning t o
t urn light brown, add t he peanut s and swirl t o coat . Pour ont o t he prepared baking sheet , t ilt ing
it so t hat t he peanut mixt ure spreads out t hinly and evenly. It should harden almost
immediat ely. Set aside for about 10 minut es t o cool.
5. Meanwhile, make t he chocolat e ganache. Put t he chocolat e, cream, but t er and sugar int o a
heat proof bowl and place over a pan of gent ly boiling wat er for 78 minut es, st irring t o
combine once melt ed. (Tast e and add a lit t le sugar if you prefer a sweet er ganache.)
6. Spoon t he ganache mix int o t he cooled t art cases and t op wit h broken shards of peanut
brit t le. Chill for 20 minut es, t hen serve.
MALT CHOCOLATE
DOUGHNUTS
MAKES 12
I know deep-fried doughnut s dont st rict ly count as baking, but Ive included t hem here
because t hey st art wit h a dough, and t hey t ast e t oo good t o leave out , especially made wit h a
chocolat e ganache filling inst ead of t he usual jam. Youll need fresh yeast for t his recipe, which
you can buy from t he bread sect ion of most supermarket s.
50g cast er sugar, plus 23 heaped t bsp for dust ing
150ml whole milk
15g fresh yeast
Pinch of sea salt
2 egg yolks
Veget able oil, for deep-frying
23 heaped t bsp malt powder, e.g. Ovalt ine for dust ing
FOR THE FILLING
250ml double cream
24 t bsp runny honey, t o t ast e
250g dark chocolat e, chopped
60g unsalt ed cold but t er, cubed
1. Heat t he sugar and milk in a pan for about 5 minut es unt il t he milk is warm and t he sugar has
dissolved. Crumble t he yeast int o a bowl, pour in half t he warm milk, t hen mix and leave t o one
side. Place t he remaining milk back on t he heat and add t he but t er. Heat gent ly for about 3
minut es (be careful not t o let t he milk boil).
2. Sift t he flour and salt int o a large bowl and make a well in t he cent re. Add t he egg yolks,
yeast ed milk and t he hot milk. Mix t oget her, drawing in t he surrounding flour t o make a dough.
3. Tip t he dough ont o a floured work surface and knead wit h floured hands for a few minut es
unt il t he dough is smoot h and elast ic. Dust wit h a lit t le ext ra plain flour if t he mix is t oo st icky.
Place in a clean bowl dust ed wit h flour. Cover wit h cling film t o st op t he dough forming a skin
on t op and leave t o rise in a warm place for 11 hours unt il doubled in size.
4. Meanwhile, make t he filling. Put t he cream in a pan and mix in t he honey t o t ast e. Put t he
chocolat e and but t er int o a bowl. When t he cream is almost boiling, pour it over t he chocolat e
mixt ure and st ir unt il well mixed, smoot h and glossy.
5. When t he dough has risen, knock it back by giving it a t hump and knead light ly on a floured
work surface. Roll out t he dough wit h a floured rolling pin t o a t hickness of about 2cm and
shape it int o a rect angle. Using a sharp knife, cut t he dough int o 12 rect angular pillows, t hen
place on a baking sheet lined wit h baking paper and leave t o rise again for 3040 minut es unt il
doubled in size. (This will make t he doughnut s light and fluffy once cooked.)
6. Combine t he remaining sugar wit h t he malt powder in a bowl and set aside. Put t he oil in a
deep-fat fryer and heat in a bowl t o 170C, or fill a large saucepan one t hird full wit h t he
veget able oil and heat unt il a cube of bread dropped in it sizzles and t urns golden brown in 30
seconds. Fry t he doughnut s, in bat ches, for 34 minut es unt il evenly golden brown and cooked
t hrough. (You will need t o moderat e t he heat bet ween bat ches according t o whet her t he
doughnut s brown t oo quickly or t oo slowly.) Using a slot t ed spoon, remove t he doughnut s from
t he hot oil and roll in t he malt sugar t o coat .
7. To fill t he doughnut s, spoon t he warm chocolat e filling int o a piping bag fit t ed wit h a small
plain nozzle. Make sure you pipe t he chocolat e filling while it s st ill warm. If it cools down t oo
much, it will set and be difficult t o work wit h. Insert t he nozzle int o t he doughnut and gent ly
squeeze in t he filling. Serve st raight away.
WHAT IT SOMETIMES TAKES EVEN
PROFESSIONAL CHEFS A WHILE TO
LEARN IS THAT COOKING IS A CRAFT
RATHER THAN AN ART.
By t hat I mean t hat it is about learning a set of rules, t he right way t o do t hings, rat her
t han simply flying by t he seat of your pant s. The vast majorit y of what you do in a kit chen
is based on a series of basic t echniques t hat come up again and again, and it s not unt il
you have underst ood and mast ered t hese core skills t hat you can st art t o experiment a
bit more and get creat ive.
During t he filming of my TV series Kit chen Night mares a few years back, when Id
t ravel t he count ry put t ing failing rest aurant s back on t heir feet , t he biggest problem I
came across was chefs who were t rying t o run before t hey could walk. Theyd come int o
t he kit chen full of swagger and st art t rying t o st amp t heir personalit y on t he menu, yet
t hey had no idea how t o do t he most basic t hings like cook an omelet t e or make a st ock.
There t hey were, t rying t o reinvent t he Caesar salad wit h scallops or langoust ines, and yet
t hey couldnt even dress t he leaves properly. They were put t ing out t ruffled woodland
mushroom lasagne but didnt know how t o make a bchamel sauce.
They were on a hiding t o not hing, of course. All cooking has t o be underpinned by an
underst anding of t he basics. These are t he building blocks you need t o const ruct a dish.
And, like any building, wit hout t hem your cooking will always fall flat . In t his chapt er youll
find nine recipes t hat demonst rat e different t echniques or processes t hat come up again
and again in cooking. Whet her it s poaching an egg or making a beaut iful glossy
mayonnaise, t hese are skills needed in count less recipes. Get t hem right and youll already
be a bet t er cook t han an alarming number of so-called professionals.
POACHING EGGS
This seems t o defeat so many people, but couldnt be simpler provided you follow a couple
of rules. First , use really fresh eggs. The fresher t he egg, t he more viscous t he whit e will
be, and t he bet t er it will cling t o t he yolk. Second, use a deep saucepan of very gent ly
simmering wat er: deep because t he egg will t ake longer t o fall t hrough t he wat er, which
will give more t ime for t he whit e t o set around t he yolk, gent ly simmering because a rolling
boil will disperse t he whit e and make it rise t o surface in a horrible scum. You can, as an
ext ra precaut ion, add a splash of whit e wine vinegar t o t he wat er, which helps t he whit e t o
coagulat e, but it shouldnt be necessary if you get t he ot her element s right and t heres
always t he danger youll t ast e it in t he final dish.
Once your wat er is simmering, crack t he egg int o a cup and use a slot t ed spoon t o
swirl t he wat er round, like a mini-whirlpool, creat ing a well in t he cent re. Now, very gent ly,
ease t he egg int o t he wat er. It should be carried by t he current and slowly spin t o t he
bot t om. Dont drop it from t oo high or t he yolk will fall t hrough t he whit e: t he idea is t hat it
becomes enrobed as it falls. You can cook up t o four eggs at a t ime, but make sure t he
wat er is spinning before you add each one. You can eit her cook t hese fully now, for 34
minut es, or do as we do in t he rest aurant s and remove t hem aft er 12 minut es and
shock t hem in iced wat er t o st op t he cooking process. Now you can drain t hem on
kit chen paper and t rim t he whit e t o neat en t hem up. Cover t hem wit h cling film and st ore
in t he fridge unt il needed. To reheat , eit her plunge t hem in boiling wat er for a minut e, or
bast e t hem in hot but t er, perhaps flavoured wit h t hyme or spring onions, in a pan for a
richer, creamier result .
The recipe for Noodle Soup wit h Poached Egg (see here) is an opport unit y t o pract ise
your poaching t echnique.
SOUFFLS
Souffls are one of t hose dishes t hat people cant help but be impressed by. They see
t hat beaut ifully risen crust and assume t hey are in t he presence of a mast er chef. It s t rue
t hat souffls t ake a cert ain amount of pract ice and confidence t o pull off, but t hey are not
act ually t hat difficult .
The secret is t o ensure t hat t he egg whit es are folded evenly t hrough t he mix for an
even rise, but t o t ake care t hat you dont knock t he air out of t hem while doing so. The
ot her t rick is t o apply a double layer of soft ened but t er t o t he ramekins in upward st rokes.
This will also encourage t he souffls t o rise evenly. You can t hen dust t he but t er wit h
flour, grat ed chocolat e, blit zed air-dried blueberries, sumac what ever suit s t he st yle of
souffl. If you get your souffl mixt ure t o t he right consist ency, it will hold in t he fridge for
up t o 1 hours, so you can make it before your guest s arrive and cook it at t he last
minut e. The final t rick before cooking is t o run your finger around t he edge of t he souffl t o
make a slight indent just inside t he rim. This also will help it t o rise. Try t he recipe here.
ROUX
The Macaroni and Cauliflower Bake wit h Three Cheeses (see here) incorporat es one of
t he most import ant kit chen skills, namely making a bchamel or whit e sauce. Youll come
across t his again and again in t hings such as moussaka, lasagne or fish pies. You combine
equal part s but t er and flour in a pan and cook t hem t oget her over a medium heat unt il
t hey t urn golden, t hen you add your liquid normally milk or st ock. The secret for a
smoot h sauce is t o add t he liquid very gradually, especially at t he beginning, and t o whisk
it in complet ely aft er each addit ion. If you add all t he liquid at once, it is much harder t o get
rid of any lumps. Once all t he liquid has been incorporat ed, t he sauce needs t o be gent ly
simmered t o cook out t he flavour of raw flour.
OMELETTES
The secret t o any good omelet t e is t o use a light ly oiled heavy-based pan. Add a knob of
but t er and only once it st art s t o foam do you add t he eggs. Then you st ir t he eggs
const ant ly t o beat in some air, and t ilt t he pan from side t o side t o make any uncooked
egg run t o t he sides. If you are adding lot s of fillings t o your omelet t e ham, leeks, t omat o,
or bacon for example make sure t hese are all well caramelised before you add t he light ly
beat en eggs, which will cook in 23 minut es. I t end t o use a fork t o gent ly st ir t he mix t o
ensure it is evenly dist ribut ed. Once t he t op is almost set but st ill moist and creamy (we
call it baveuse in professional kit chens), lift t he edges of t he omelet t e t o see you have got
a t ouch of colour on t he bot t om and t hen t ake st raight off t he heat .
The t radit ional way t o serve an omelet t e is folded t hreeways. You t ilt t he pan away
from you and flip t he edge closest t o t he handle t o t he middle, and t hen roll t he omelet t e
so it folds over it self. But t o be honest , I oft en dont bot her. Theres not hing wrong wit h an
open omelet t e, especially if youve got a nice vibrant filling such as prawns, fet a and
t omat o (see here).
MAYONNAISE
It s wort h learning how t o make a basic mayonnaise because it is such a versat ile
condiment t hat you can t ake in so many direct ions. Ill oft en flavour mine wit h basil or
t arragon, garlic, lemon, lime, capers, wat ercress even anchovies (see t he lovely variat ion
see here).
You st art wit h your egg yolks, vinegar, must ard and salt and t hen very gradually add
your oil, whisking furiously all t he t ime, t o creat e a rich, t hick sauce. The great est danger is
t hat your sauce will split (it will look curdled and t he oil wont emulsify wit h t he egg yolk).
To prevent t his happening, make sure your ingredient s are all at room t emperat ure t o
begin wit h, and add t he oil almost drop by drop at t he beginning and never at more t han a
slow t rickle. If t he worst does happen, simply beat anot her egg yolk in a clean bowl and
slowly add your split mixt ure, whisking all t he t ime. It will soon come t oget her and re-
emulsify.
You can use any oil you like in mayonnaise. I find ext ra virgin olive t oo rich and
overpowering so like t o use groundnut , which has a very neut ral flavour. A furt her way t o
make it less cloying is t o let it down at t he end wit h a couple of t ablespoons of iced wat er.
This will not only make it a nice whit e colour, but means it will coat salad leaves more
easily.
CHICKEN STOCK
Classic French cooking used t o rely on lot s of heavily reduced veal and beef st ocks, but
t he fashion now is t o use more chicken st ock, which gives a far light er result . This is good
news for t he home cook because of all t he st ocks, chicken is t he easiest t o make, yet will
absolut ely t ransform your cooking. There are t imes when you can just about get away
wit h a good st ock cube making gravy, for example, where t he pan juices will already
have plent y of meat y oomph but not hing comes close t o providing t he same body and
dept h of flavour t hat you get from a proper home-made st ock. If you eat much chicken in
your house, t he biggest favour you can do yourself is always t o buy whole birds, use t he
meat as you want roast ed whole or joint ed as you need it (see here) and t hen use t he
carcass t o make t he most fant ast ic versat ile st ock. This will be your secret weapon, your
way of inject ing so much more flavour int o your cooking and, as Ive said elsewhere, t hat
is half t he bat t le. The Spiced Lent il Soup here is a good example of using st ock t o great
effect , as t he lent ils readily t ake up t he ext ra flavour it provides.
There are t wo st yles of chicken st ock: whit e and brown. Whit e is made wit h uncooked
carcasses and veget ables, and produces a much paler, more delicat e st ock, which is used
for light brot hs, risot t os and t he like, where you are looking for a light er flavour. Brown
st ock is made wit h roast ed carcasses and veget ables, somet imes wit h t he addit ion of
t omat o pure. The result is much richer and more int ense, and is great for sauces, st ews
and heart y soups such as French onion. Bot h are made in roughly t he same way. I reckon
on making about a lit re of st ock from one carcass.
For a whit e st ock, place your carcass bones plus any whit e veget ables in a large
saucepan. Onions, leeks, celery, garlic and t urnips are all good addit ions, but not pot at oes
as t heyll make t he final st ock cloudy. Add a bay leaf, a sprig of t hyme and a few
peppercorns, t hen pour in just enough cold wat er t o cover t he carcass, and slowly bring it
all t o a simmer. The wat er must be cold t o begin wit h so t hat any fat will solidify and rise t o
t he surface, where you can skim it off. Bring t he st ock t o t he gent lest simmer, so you can
see just t he occasional bubble breaking t he surface, and cook for up t o 4 hours, skimming
scum from t he surface regularly. Pass t he finished st ock t hrough a sieve, leave t o cool, and
keep in t he fridge for up t o a week or in t he freezer for up t o t hree mont hs.
A brown st ock is made in just t he same way, but you need t o roast t he carcass and
veget ables first . Place t he carcass in an oven t ray and roast for 15 minut es at 200C/Gas
6, t hen dust it wit h a couple of t ablespoons of flour and cook for anot her 5 minut es. The
flour will not only act as a t hickening agent , but will also absorb t he fat and st op your st ock
from being greasy. Meanwhile, chop your veget ables int o rough chunks (t his t ime including
carrot s if you like, as well), and saut t hem in oil in your st ockpot for a few minut es, st irring
regularly, unt il golden. Add a t ablespoon or t wo of pured t omat oes (passat a) or a small
squeeze of concent rat ed t omat o pure, and cook for 5 minut es. Then add t he roast ed
bones and cont inue as for whit e chicken st ock, but cook for about 1 hour inst ead of 4.
VINAIGRETTE
A vinaigret t e is so much more t han just a dressing for salad. We use it in t he rest aurant s
t o finish anyt hing from fish, and even meat , t o spring veget ables (see t he recipe see here).
It s a lovely way of bringing freshness t o a dish and is much healt hier t han covering
everyt hing in but t er. You can also use it t o mark t he seasons, adding cit rus flavours in t he
summer and robust herbs like rosemary and t hyme in t he wint er. It helps t o t hink of it more
as a seasoning t han just a dressing.
A classic vinaigret t e is made wit h 34 part s olive oil t o 1 part whit e wine vinegar, but
t hat is only t he st art ing point . You can change t he oil sesame, hazelnut , rapeseed;
change t he vinegar red wine, balsamic, sherry, lemon juice; change t he flavourings
shallot s, red pepper, must ard, honey, lemongrass, garlic. There really is no end. Somet imes
I find using all olive oil t oo heavy. It becomes cloying and almost st icks t o t he roof of your
mout h. When you have some beaut iful young salad leaves t he last t hing you want t o do is
kill t hem wit h a heavy vinaigret t e, so I usually subst it ut e a t hird of t he olive oil wit h some
sunflower or groundnut oil t o let it down a bit . Ill even somet imes add 2 or 3 t ablespoons
of iced wat er, which is a really nice way of light ening t he vinaigret t e st ill furt her and means
a salad will st ay fresh longer.
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
Hollandaise is best known for t hat breakfast classic of Eggs Benedict , but is also great
wit h cold t rout or salmon, and st eamed veget ables. Like vinaigret t e, you can st eer it in
plent y of different direct ions by adding different cit rus flavours grapefruit or lemon, for
example or different herbs (see t he recipe for Asparagus wit h Lemon and Tarragon
Hollandaise, see here). Wit h mint it makes a part icularly good accompaniment t o
barbecued lamb.
For a t radit ional hollandaise, you whisk egg yolks wit h a splash of wat er and whit e
wine vinegar in a bowl set over a pan of boiling wat er. Once it is pale and creamy and
forms ribbons, you remove it from t he heat and whisk in large quant it ies of clarified but t er
(where t he milk solids and fat have been separat ed by gent le heat ing). The key is t o keep
t he sauce warm unt il you serve it as once it cools, it will solidify and is very difficult t o make
creamy again.
In t rut h, very few chefs st ill make hollandaise in t his way, but use olive oil inst ead of
but t er t o make a kind of cooked mayonnaise. This result s in a much more pract ical and
st able sauce and it s also less cloying. I like t o let it down furt her wit h lemon juice or wat er
at t he end.
CUSTARD
Making a proper egg cust ard is one of t he t hings t hat really marks out a compet ent home
cook. It s wort h perfect ing as it is t he base for so many t hings, from ice-cream t o crme
pat issire, and t he difference bet ween home-made and inst ant is like night and day.
Making your own also allows you t o flavour it as you want by infusing t he milk wit h mint ,
lemongrass, basil, bay leaves, rosemary, t hyme, cinnamon, st ar anise you name it . (Also
see t he recipe for Lemongrass Cust ard Cups here.)
There are t hree golden rules here. First , when you bring your milk and cream t o t he
boil, make sure you t ake it off t he heat t he moment it st art s t o bubble. Even anot her 30
seconds will complet ely change t he consist ency and st op t he cust ard t hickening. Second,
dont add t he sugar t o t he egg yolks unt il t he last second before you are ready t o whisk in
t he milk, ot herwise t he sugar will dissolve int o t he egg and lose t he st rengt h t hat you
need t o make t he cust ard t hicken as you heat it .
The t hird, and most import ant , rule is not t o allow t he egg mixt ure t o boil. If it does,
youll end up wit h a pan of sweet scrambled eggs. Most cookbooks will advise you t o
t hicken your cust ard in a bain-marie, a bowl set over a pan of boiling wat er. The idea is
t hat t he indirect heat makes it less likely t o boil. The t rouble is, youll be t here for 20
minut es wait ing for it t o t hicken, and can easily get dist ract ed at t he key moment . I t hink
t he quicker you cook it , t he safer it is. That means in a saucepan over direct heat , st irring
const ant ly and making sure you really get int o t he corners of t he pan t o keep all t he
cust ard moving and avoiding any hot spot s. If you keep it moving, it will always t hicken
before it overheat s, so provided you t ake it off t he heat as soon as it st art s t o coat t he
back of your spoon and you immediat ely decant t he cust ard t hrough a sieve int o anot her
bowl st anding by, youll have a perfect ly smoot h, t hickened cust ard.
BASIC SKILLS
Spiced lent il soup
ST CLEMENTS
SOUFFLS
SERVES 4
Souffls have a reput at ion for being difficult t o pull off, but t hey really arent so long as you fold
t he egg whit es carefully int o t he base so t hey ret ain t heir air, and you have your oven at t he
right t emperat ure. My ot her t rick is t o apply a double layer of soft ened but t er t o t he ramekins
in upward st rokes t o help t hem rise evenly. If you get t he souffl mixt ure t o t he right
consist ency, it will hold in t he fridge for up t o 1 hours, so you can make it in advance and
cook it just when you need t o.
150ml milk
100ml double cream
100g cast er sugar
3 large egg yolks
15g plain flour
10g cornflour
40g unsalt ed soft ened but t er, for brushing
40g plain chocolat e, finely grat ed
4 large egg whit es
Zest and juice of 1 large lemon
Zest and juice of 1 orange
Icing sugar, for dust ing
1. Begin by making t he souffl base. Pour t he milk and cream int o a pan. Bring t o scalding point
(just below boiling), t hen remove from t he heat . Place half t he sugar in a bowl, add t he egg
yolks and whisk unt il pale and t hick. Sift in t he flours and whisk again. Gradually add t he
scalded milk, whisking as you go.
2. Pour t he mixt ure back int o t he pan and place over a low heat . St ir const ant ly wit h a wooden
spoon for about 5 minut es unt il it t hickens t o a smoot h, velvet y consist ency. Leave t o cool t o
room t emperat ure.
3. Brush four 250ml souffl moulds or ramekins wit h t he soft ened but t er, applied in upward
vert ical st rokes. If your moulds have a rim, make sure t he but t er covers t his as well. Chill for a
few minut es, t hen repeat wit h a second layer of but t er. Sprinkle some of t he grat ed chocolat e
int o each mould, shaking it around t o cover t he inside complet ely. Tip out any excess and chill
t he moulds unt il needed.
5. Put t he egg whit es in a bowl and whisk unt il t hey hold st iff peaks. Add a few drops of lemon
juice t o st abilise and whisk again. Gradually add t he remaining sugar, a spoonful at a t ime,
whisking const ant ly unt il you have a very t hick and glossy mixt ure.
6. Whisk t he lemon and orange zest int o t he souffl base. Mix t he lemon and orange juice
t oget her, measure out 120ml, t hen whisk it in as well. Whisk a t hird of t he egg whit e mixt ure
int o t he souffl base t o loosen it . Carefully fold in t he rest of t he egg whit es wit h a large met al
spoon unt il evenly dist ribut ed. Fill each mould t o t he t op and t ap each one once on t he work
surface t o get rid of any air bubbles.
7. Smoot h t he surface wit h a small palet t e knife. Run t he t ip of your finger around t he inside
edge of t he moulds t o separat e t he mixt ure from t he dish, t hen place on a baking sheet . Bake
in t he middle of t he oven for 1520 minut es or unt il risen wit h a slight wobble in t he middle.
Dust wit h icing sugar and serve st raight away.
NOODLE SOUP
WITH POACHED EGG
SERVES 2
In Asia t hey oft en finish off noodle or rice dishes wit h eggs, be t hey cooked in a wok or, as here,
in a brot h. This a great dish for pract ising your egg poaching skills (see here) as it doesnt
mat t er if t hey break int o st rands.
2 t bsp light /whit e miso past e, t o t ast e
3 dried shiit ake mushrooms, rehydrat ed t hen sliced
Soy sauce, t o t ast e
100g Port obello mushrooms
200g fresh noodles, e.g. udon
75g baby spinach leaves
2 eggs
2 spring onions, t rimmed and finely chopped, t o garnish
1. Pour 750ml wat er int o a saucepan and bring t o a simmer over a medium heat . Add t he miso
past e, ginger, sliced shiit ake mushrooms and a dash of soy sauce and simmer gent ly for 5
minut es t o flavour.
2. Finely slice t he Port obello mushrooms. Divide t hem equally, along wit h t he noodles and
spinach, bet ween 2 warm serving bowls. Pour over a ladleful of st ock t o wilt t he spinach, and
keep warm.
3. Break t he eggs int o individual ramekins or mugs and drop one at a t ime int o t he gent ly
simmering st ock. Poach for 23 minut es (it doesnt mat t er if t hey break up slight ly).
4. Spoon t he eggs int o t he serving bowls wit h a slot t ed spoon and pour t he st ock around
t hem, dividing t he shiit ake mushrooms equally bet ween t he bowls.
5. Serve garnished wit h spring onions and wit h ext ra soy on t he side t o flavour as necessary.
MACARONI AND
CAULIFLOWER BAKE WITH
THREE CHEESES
SERVES 4
This is my t wist on t he classic American mac n cheese, using a t rio of English cheeses.
Mat ure Cheddar adds a t angy dept h of flavour t o t he base, while t he crumbly Lancashire and
Cheshire cheeses melt int o a smoot h and creamy sauce (a good opport unit y t o pract ise your
roux t echnique, see here).
300g cauliflower floret s
300g dried macaroni
60g but t er, plus a few ext ra knobs
4 t bsp plain flour
2 t sp English must ard powder
600ml whole milk
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Sea salt , t o t ast e
100g mat ure Cheddar cheese, grat ed
100g Lancashire cheese, crumbled
100g Cheshire cheese, crumbled
3 t bsp fresh whit e breadcrumbs
1 t bsp t hyme leaves
1. Bring a large pan of well-salt ed wat er t o t he boil. Add t he cauliflower and cook for 45
minut es unt il t ender. Remove wit h a slot t ed spoon and refresh in a bowl of ice-cold wat er t o
prevent it from cooking any furt her. Drain well.
2. Tip t he macaroni int o t he boiling salt ed wat er and cook unt il al dent e, according t o packet
inst ruct ions. Drain, refresh under cold, running wat er and drain again. Mix t he macaroni,
cauliflower and a few knobs of but t er t oget her in a large bowl.
3. Preheat t he oven t o 200C/Gas 6. Heat t he 60g but t er in a pan, and st ir in t he flour and
must ard powder t o make a roux. Gradually add t he milk, beat ing cont inuously wit h a balloon
whisk unt il t he mixt ure is smoot h. Slowly bring t o t he boil over a low heat , whisking frequent ly,
unt il t he mixt ure t hickens. Season well wit h cayenne pepper and sea salt t o t ast e.
4. Mix t he t hree cheeses t oget her and st ir half int o t he whit e sauce. Mix well unt il t he cheese
has melt ed and t he sauce is smoot h again. Add t he macaroni and cauliflower t o t he sauce and
mix well t o coat . Spread t he mixt ure int o a large, wide grat in dish.
5. Combine t he remaining cheeses wit h t he breadcrumbs and t hyme leaves. Sprinkle over t he
t op of t he macaroni and cauliflower mixt ure. Bake for about 1520 minut es unt il t he t opping is
golden and crisp. Serve immediat ely.
PRAWN AND
FETA OMELETTE
SERVES 2
When you fill an omelet t e wit h so many good t hings, it makes no sense t o fold it and hide t hem
away. Just finish it off under t he grill and slip it from pan t o plat e.
1 ripe t omat o, diced
1 spring onion, t rimmed and chopped
8 cooked king prawns, peeled and deveined (see here)
Pinch of dried chilli flakes, t o t ast e
4 eggs, beat en
1 t sp chopped fresh oregano or pinch of dried oregano
1. Preheat t he grill t o medium.
2. In a small frying pan, heat a dash of oil and add t he t omat o and spring onion. Season and
cook over a medium heat for 23 minut es or unt il t he t omat oes are st art ing t o break down.
Add t he prawns and chilli flakes, mix well t o coat in t he t omat oes and cook for 1 minut e t o
warm t hrough.
3. Meanwhile, heat a grillproof frying pan over a medium heat . Add a lit t le oil and, when hot ,
pour in t he beat en eggs, seasoning t hem well first . Cook for 12 minut es unt il t he underside of
t he egg is beginning t o set but t he t op remains runny.
4. Sprinkle t he oregano over t he omelet t e, t hen pour t he t omat o and prawn mix over t he t op,
making sure t he prawns are in an even layer. Crumble over t he fet a cheese, season and add a
drizzle of oil.
5. Place t he omelet t e under t he hot grill and grill for 23 minut es unt il t he egg is just cooked
t hrough. Remove and serve.
SPICED LENTIL SOUP
SERVES 4
Wit h a good chicken st ock at it s base, you dont need many ingredient s t o creat e a delicious
soup. Red lent ils, onion, garlic, t omat o pure and a few spices are all it t akes t o creat e t his
st unning wint er warmer.
275g split red lent ils
2 t bsp olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 t sp ground cumin
2 t sp garam masala
12 t sp ground ginger
TO SERVE
34 t bsp nat ural yoghurt
Coriander leaves
1. Rinse t he lent ils under cold running wat er in a colander, drain well and set aside.
2. Heat t he olive oil in a pan and add t he onion and garlic. Saut for 46 minut es unt il light ly
golden. St ir in t he ground spices and t omat o pure and cook for anot her 2 minut es.
3. Add t he lent ils and pour in t he st ock t o cover. Bring t o t he boil, t hen lower t he heat and
simmer, uncovered, for 2530 minut es, st irring every now and t hen, unt il t he lent ils are very
soft . (You may need t o t op up wit h a lit t le more wat er t owards t he end of cooking if t he soup
seems t oo t hick.) Tast e and adjust t he seasoning.
4. Ladle half of t he soup int o a blender and whiz t o a pure, t hen pour back int o t he pan. The
soup should be somewhat chunky. Adjust t he consist ency again if necessary, adding a lit t le
boiling wat er t o t hin it down.
5. Ladle t he soup int o warm bowls and t op wit h a spoonful of yoghurt and a few coriander
leaves.
HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF HERBS
Fresh herbs are a great way t o add maximum flavour on a budget . Make t hem last longer by
st anding t he st ems in a glass of wat er. Theyll keep t his way for up t o 2 weeks in t he fridge.
ROASTED RED ONION
VINAIGRETTE WITH GREEN
BEAN SALAD
SERVES 46
A lovely salad t hat works any t ime of t he year alongside grilled meat or fish. By roast ing t he
onions first , you add anot her layer of flavour t o t he dressing, which would go equally well wit h
pot at oes or cauliflower. If you dress t he veget ables while t hey are st ill warm, t heyll t ake on
more flavour st ill.
125g runner beans
125g French beans
125g sugarsnap peas
Roughly chopped mint and parsley
FOR THE VINAIGRETTE
2 red onions, peeled
150ml ext ra virgin olive oil, plus ext ra for roast ing
2 t hyme sprigs
50ml sherry vinegar
1. First make t he vinaigret t e. Preheat t he oven t o 220C/Gas 9.
2. Place t he onions in a roast ing t ray wit h a lit t le olive oil, t he t hyme, garlic and a lit t le salt and
roast for 2530 minut es unt il t he onions are complet ely cooked and have a nice roast ed
flavour.
3. Remove t he onions from t he t ray and chop int o rough dice (you want t he dressing t o have a
rust ic t ext ure).
4. Mix t he onions wit h t he 150ml ext ra virgin olive oil and t he sherry vinegar and season wit h a
lit t le salt and pepper t o t ast e.
5. To make t he salad, blanch t he beans by plunging t hem in boiling salt ed wat er for 1
minut es unt il t heir rawness has been removed but t hey are st ill crunchy. Refresh immediat ely
in cold wat er, t hen remove and put ont o kit chen paper t o absorb t he moist ure. Cut each bean
int o bit e-sized pieces.
6. Put t he chopped beans int o a large bowl, st ir in t he red onion dressing and t oss wit h t he
parsley and mint . Serve immediat ely in chilled salad bowls.
FRITTO MISTO WITH
GARLIC AND SAFFRON
MAYONNAISE
SERVES 4
Bat t ered and fried seafood dipped int o garlicky mayonnaise is one of my favourit e summer
holiday dishes. But if you find t he idea of preparing all t hat seafood t oo int imidat ing, it s a recipe
t hat works just as well wit h veget ables.
Bunch of asparagus, t rimmed if necessary
1 fennel bulb, sliced
1 head of radicchio, cut int o small wedges
2 courget t es, cut int o bat ons
Plain flour, for dust ing
Veget able oil, for deep-frying
12 sage leaves
FOR THE BATTER
1 t bsp olive oil
1 egg
150ml milk
FOR THE MAYONNAISE
Pinch of saffron st rands
3 free-range egg yolks
1 t bsp Dijon must ard
Juice of lemon
200ml veget able oil
200ml olive oil
1. First make t he mayonnaise. Soak t he saffron in 1 t ablespoon of boiling wat er for 30 seconds.
Beat t he egg yolks wit h t he must ard, garlic, lemon juice and saffron plus a lit t le of it s wat er in a
bowl (or blend in a food processor). Add t he oils gradually in a slow, st eady st ream. Season wit h
salt and pepper, adding a lit t le more lemon juice if you like a sharp flavour. Set aside.
2. Heat a deep-fat fryer t o 170C, or fill a large saucepan a t hird full of oil and heat unt il a cube
of bread dropped in t he hot oil sizzles and t urns golden in 30 seconds. (Alt ernat ively, shallow-
fry wit h less oil, t urning frequent ly.)
3. Put t he flour for t he bat t er int o a bowl and season wit h salt and pepper. Mix in t he olive oil,
t hen make a well in t he middle and slowly whisk in t he egg, milk and 150ml wat er. Whisk for 2
3 minut es unt il smoot h.
4. Dust t he prepared veget ables in seasoned flour, shaking off any excess before dipping t hem
int o t he bat t er. Fry in bat ches in t he hot oil for about 23 minut es each or unt il golden. Remove
wit h a slot t ed spoon and drain on kit chen paper, and repeat wit h t he remaining veget ables.
Finally, dip t he sage leaves in t he bat t er, shake off any excess and fry for 2030 seconds unt il
crisp.
5. Serve t he bat t ered veget ables and leaves warm wit h t he mayonnaise on t he side for
dipping.
HOW TO CHOP GARLIC
Garlic is brilliant ly versat ile and can be used in many different ways. The smaller you cut it , t he
more pot ent but short er-lived it s flavour, so leave it whole or t hickly sliced if you want a mellow
backnot e, but crush it for more oomph. The best way t o chop it finely, as required above, is t o
cut it as you would an onion (see here).
ASPARAGUS WITH
LEMON AND TARRAGON
HOLLANDAISE
SERVES 4
Were all becoming more healt h conscious, and making hollandaise wit h olive oil inst ead of
but t er result s in an equally rich sauce. You can flavour t he hollandaise wit h any cit rus fruit
grapefruit or orange, for example but wit h asparagus I always like t o keep it simple, wit h
lemon and a sprinkling of t arragon.
450g asparagus, t rimmed
FOR THE HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
3 large egg yolks
Squeeze of lemon juice, plus ext ra t o t ast e
200ml olive oil
2 t bsp chopped t arragon
1. First make t he hollandaise sauce. Using a large balloon whisk, beat t he egg yolks wit h a
squeeze of lemon juice and seasoning in a bowl set over a pan of simmering wat er. Beat
vigorously for about 10 minut es unt il t he mixt ure t hickens. (To make sure t he sauce doesnt
overheat , t ake it on and off t he heat while you whisk, scraping around t he sides of t he bowl
wit h a plast ic spat ula.) The aim is t o achieve a golden, airy sauce t hat forms ribbons on t he
surface when t he whisk is lift ed.
2. Warm t he olive oil in a small pan, t hen set aside. Off t he heat , gradually add a lit t le of t he
warmed olive oil at a t ime t o t he egg mix, t hen ret urn t he bowl over a gent le heat t o cook a
lit t le more. Remove from t he heat again and whisk in anot her dash of warm oil. Repeat unt il all
t he oil is incorporat ed and t he sauce has a t hick, mayonnaise-like consist ency.
3. Whisk in lemon juice, salt and pepper t o t ast e, plus 23 t ablespoons of warm wat er t o give
t he mixt ure a pouring consist ency, t hen add t he chopped t arragon.
4. Blanch t he asparagus by plunging it int o boiling salt ed wat er for 23 minut es unt il it s
rawness has been removed but it is st ill crunchy. Drain well and serve wit h t he hollandaise.
HOW TO USE UP LEFTOVER CITRUS FRUIT
Cut t he fruit int o wedges and freeze unt il needed. Theyre ideal for cooling drinks wit hout
wat ering t hem down as ice does, and also add flavour.
LEMONGRASS CUSTARD
CUPS
MAKES 8
Inst ant cust ard is all very well, but not hing beat s a proper crme anglaise, especially when it s
perfumed wit h lemongrass. These cups make a fant ast ically elegant dessert , which can be
made well in advance and finished off wit h a dust ing of sugar and blast of a chefs blowt orch.
400ml double cream
180ml milk
2 large lemongrass st alks, split and slight ly crushed
6 free-range egg yolks
75g cast er sugar
Demerara sugar, for t he t opping
1. Scald t he cream and milk in a large saucepan, t hen add t he lemongrass st alks, pressing
t hem down in t he liquid t o ext ract as much flavour as possible. Allow t o cool, t hen remove t he
st alks.
2. Beat t he egg yolks in a large heat proof bowl set on a damp clot h t o hold it st eady. Scald t he
creamy milk again and when it is on t he point of boiling, whisk it int o t he yolks in slurps,
beat ing well.
3. Ret urn t he mixt ure t o t he pan, pouring t hrough a fine sieve. Beat in t he sugar. On t he lowest
heat possible, st ir t he liquid wit h a wooden spoon unt il it st art s t o coat t he back of t he spoon.
Remove from t he heat immediat ely and pour int o 8 small ramekins or heat proof cups.
4. Heat t he oven t o 140C/Gas 1. Place t he ramekins in a roast ing t ray or high-sided ovenproof
dish, pour in enough warm wat er t o reach halfway up t he sides of t he ramekins and bake for
about 1 hour unt il t he mixt ure becomes slight ly set . Remove, cool and chill unt il firm.
5. When you are ready t o serve, sprinkle t he ramekins evenly wit h demerara sugar and
caramelise it wit h a hand-held blowt orch or under a hot grill.
HOW TO PREVENT THE CUSTARD SPLITTING
Beat ing in t he sugar aft er t he eggs helps t o st abilise t he mixt ure and means it will t hicken
more quickly.
INDEX
A
Aioli
Almonds:
Lemon polent a cake
Romesco sauce
Anchovies:
Anchovy dressing
Apples:
Apple crumble
Crunchy apple salad
Arancini, easy
Asparagus:
Aubergines:
Salt ing
Slow-cooked
Avocados:
B
Bacon:
Barbecue sauce
Bass:
Beans
Beef:
Beef empanadas
Beef wellingt on
Buying
Frying sirloin st eak
Quick chilli con carne
Simple beef brisket wit h new pot at o piccalilli salad
Spicy beef salad
St eak sandwiches
Biscuit s
Black beans:
Blackcurrant sauce, pan-fried duck breast s wit h
Blondies
Bread:
Soda bread
Using st ale bread
Broccoli:
Miso salmon
Brot hs:
Fragrant coconut brot h
Bruschet t e:
Wit h garlic, t omat oes, caper berries and pecorino
But t er beans:
But t ernut squash:
Chicken and aut umn veget able pie
C
Cabbage:
Quick pickled cabbage
Shawarma spiced chicken wrap
Cakes
Fresh ginger sponge
Lemon polent a
Cannellini beans:
Crost ini wit h anchovy and olives
Capers:
Parsley and caper sauce
Cardamom
Cauliflower:
New pot at o piccalilli salad
Celeriac, chicken and aut umn veget able pie
Cheese:
Chilli dogs
Chopped salad
Easy arancini
Pork st uffed wit h manchego and membrillo
Roast ed cod wit h a walnut , lemon and parmesan crust
See also mascarpone cheese; ricot t a cheese
Cheesecake, baked
Chest nut s:
Chicken:
Buying
Chicken and chicory in marsala sauce
Chicken st ock
Jerk chicken
Joint ing and deboning
Paella
Chickpeas:
Chopped salad
Chicory:
Chicken and chicory in marsala sauce
Chopped salad
Chillies
Chilli dogs
Chilli powder
Chopping chillies
Green papaya salad
Handling chillies
Jerk chicken
Miso salmon
Nort h African eggs
Salami and chilli pizza
Spicy chut ney
Spicy pancakes
Spicy t omat o relish
St icky pork ribs
Chimichurri sauce
Chocolat e
Blondies
Chopping boards
Chorizo:
Paella
Chut ney, spicy
Cinnamon
Cit rus fruit s:
Juicing
Using up left over
Cloves
Coconut :
Spicy chut ney
Cod:
Fish pie
Coriander
Courget t es:
Crab:
Cooking
Cranberries:
Apple crumble
Blondies
Cream, whipping
Crumble, apple
Crumpet s, homemade
Cucumber:
Spicy beef salad
Cumin
Curries:
Cust ard
D
Dip, yoghurt
Doughnut s, malt chocolat e
Dressings:
Anchovy
Mixing
Must ard
Parsley
Salad
Tahini
Thai-st yle
Duck:
Minimising fat t iness in duck meat
E
Eggs:
Beef empanadas
Cust ard
Lemon and t arragon hollandaise sauce
Nort h African eggs
Omelet t es
Poaching
Souffls
Zabaglione
Equipment
F
Fennel:
Fennel seeds
Fenugreek
Fet a cheese:
Figs:
Fish
Buying
Cooking
Fish pie
Preparing
See also individual t ypes of fish
Flat breads:
Wit h fennel and fet a
Wit h lemon t hyme ricot t a
Focaccia, olive, t omat o and rosemary
French beans:
Green bean salad
Frit t at a, bacon, pea and goat s cheese
Frit t ers, sweet corn
Fruit :
See also individual t ypes of fruit
Frying:
Fish
Meat
Onions
Wit h but t er
G
Gammon:
St oring
Treacle-glazed
Garlic:
Chopping
Garlic bruschet t e
Simple beef brisket wit h new pot at o piccalilli salad
St eak sandwiches
Ginger
Peeling ginger
St icky pork ribs
Gnocchi, home-made
Gordons kedgeree
Green beans:
Green bean salad
Greens:
Cooking
Gremolat a, orange
Griddles
Grilling fish
Guinea fowl:
H
Haddock:
Fish pie
Gordons kedgeree
Herbs:
Chopping
Dried
Fresh
Hollandaise sauce
Lemon and t arragon
Honey
Houmous, roast ed squash
J
Jam, quick st rawberry
Jellies, pimms
Jerk chicken
Julienne veget ables
K
Kale:
Beef meat balls wit h orecchiet t e
Kedgeree, gordons
Koft as, chickpea, cumin and spinach
L
Lamb:
Buying
Lambs let t uce:
Crunchy apple salad
Leeks:
Lemongrass:
Lemons:
Lemon polent a cake
Zest ing
Lent ils:
Seasoning
Spiced lent il soup
Let t uce:
Chopped salad
Fresh prawn rolls
Spicy beef salad
Limes:
Fresh prawn rolls
Lime syrup
M
Mace
Mackerel:
Fillet ing
Madras curry past e
Mangoes:
Mango salsa
Mascarpone cheese:
Pimms jellies
Tomat o risot t o
Mayonnaise
Saffron
Wasabi
Meat :
Buying
Cooking
Preparing
St oring
St uffing
See also beef; chicken; lamb; pork
Meat balls:
Melon:
Membrillo, pork st uffed wit h manchego and
Millefeuille, raspberry
Miso salmon
Mousse:
Mushrooms:
Beef wellingt on
Easy arancini
Miso salmon
Mussels
Paella
Must ard seeds
N
Noodles:
Fresh prawn rolls
Nut meg
O
Oils
Olives:
Beef empanadas
Tomat o and herb salsa
Omelet t es
Prawn and fet a
Onions:
Caramelised
Chopping
Frying
Salad onions
Oranges:
Orange gremolat a
Pimms jellies
Oyst ers, preparing
P
Paella
Pak choi:
Miso salmon
Pancakes:
Spicy
Pancet t a:
Papaya:
Green papaya salad
Preparing
Paprika
Parma ham:
Beef wellingt on
Past a:
Cooking
Sauces
Tagliat elle wit h quick sausage meat bolognaise
Past ry
Prevent ing shrinkage
Short crust
Sweet
Peanut s:
Mango salsa
Peanut brit t le
Pears:
Peas:
Home-made gnocchi
Paella
Pepper
Peppers:
Chopped salad
Nort h African eggs
Paella
Romesco sauce
Slicing
Spicy sausage rice
Sweet and sour
Pie, chicken and aut umn veget able
Pimms jellies
Pine nut s:
Pineapple wit h spiced caramel
Pizza, mozzarella and rosemary
Plums:
Poaching:
Eggs
Fish
Polent a:
Lemon polent a cake
Pomegranat e molasses
Pork:
Buying
Seasoning pork skin
St icky pork ribs
Pot at oes:
Fish pie
Home-made gnocchi
Spicy pancakes
Prawns:
Fish pie
Fresh prawn rolls
Paella
Preparing
Pulses
Q
Quiche, leek and pancet t a
R
Radicchio:
Radishes:
Spicy beef salad
Raisins, moroccan lamb wit h sweet pot at o and
Ras el hanout spice blend
Raspberries:
Baked cheesecake
Relish, spicy t omat o
Rice
Cooking
Easy arancini
Gordons kedgeree
Paella
Spicy sausage rice
Tomat o risot t o
Ricot t a cheese:
Blueberry and ricot t a pancakes
Home-made gnocchi
Romesco sauce
Roux
Runner beans:
Green bean salad
S
Salads:
Chopped salad
Crunchy apple
Green bean
Green papaya
New pot at o piccalilli
Roast ed red pepper, lent il and herb
Spicy beef
Salami:
Chopped salad
Salami and chilli pizza
Salmon:
Fish pie
Miso salmon
Salsa:
Mango
Tomat o
Tomat o and herb
Salt
Sardines:
Sauces
Barbecue
Blackcurrant
Chimichurri
Dipping
Hollandaise
Marsala
Parsley and caper
For past a
Romesco
Sweet chilli
Sausages:
Chilli dogs
Spicy sausage rice
Scallops:
Fish pie
Seafood:
Buying
Fish pie
Seasoning
Lent ils
Shallot s:
Short bread, lemon t hyme
Souffls
St Clement s
Soups:
Curry-spiced sweet corn
Spiced lent il
Spicy meat ball
Spices
Toast ing
Spinach:
Squash:
Squid:
Paella
St ar anise
St eaming fish
St ir-frying
St ock, chicken
St ock syrup
St rawberries:
Pimms jellies
Quick st rawberry jam
St uffing:
Chorizo
Garlic and chest nut
St uffing meat
Sugar-snap peas:
Green bean salad
Sumac
Sweet pot at oes:
Sweet corn:
Syrup, st ock
T
Tamarind, preparing
Tart s:
Tast ing
Thai-st yle salad dressing
Tins
Lining
Tomat oes:
Chopped salad
Nort h African eggs
Paella
Spicy beef salad
Spicy t omat o relish
Tomat o and herb salsa
Tomat o risot t o
Tomat o salsa
Tuna:
Turmeric
V
Vanilla pods
Veget ables, boiling
See also individual t ypes of veget able
Vinaigret t e
Roast ed red onion
Spanish
Vinegars
W
Walnut s:
Wasabi mayo
Wat er chest nut s:
Whit ebait , chilli and spice
Y
Yoghurt dip
Z
Zabaglione
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
First and foremost , I would like t o t hank t he brilliant t eam at Hodder Nicky Ross, Sarah
Hammond, Eleni Lawrence, Alasdair Oliver, Kat e Brunt , Susan Sprat t and Joanna Seat on for
t heir belief and passion. Wit hout t hem t his book would not have been possible.
Tony Turnbull has my sincerest grat it ude for his invaluable guidance and advice on
producing and complet ing t his book.
A big t hank you t o Sarah Durdin Robert son, and Lisa Harrison who have bot h worked on
so many of my books and programmes and who worked across t his project wit h endless
energy and ent husiasm. Also t hank you t o Anna Burges-Lumsden for her great work and t o my
Group Execut ive Chef, Simon Gregory (who has aided me for many years) for his input and
dedicat ion.
This book has t he most breat ht aking phot ography court esy of t he t alent ed Anders
Schnnemann, aided by st ylist Cynt hia Inions whose creat ivit y has made t he book so st ylish.
Im indebt ed t o James Edgar at Post 98 Design for his design and art direct ion his
inspired vision has led t o a book t hat is bot h ent icing and beaut iful and t o Miren Lopat egui,
who copy-edit ed t he recipes wit h an eagle eye.
A massive t hank you t o all at One Pot at o Two Pot at o for producing anot her fabulous
series, especially Pat Llewellyn, Ben Adler, Sue Murphy, Paul Rat cliffe, Kimberley Sangst er,
Karen Kelly, Colin St eele, Tom Clarke, and Anna Horsburgh, a t eam whose expert
craft smanship guarant eed a successful and excit ing product ion. Thanks also t o Charles
Walker at PFD.
I would also like t o t hank Jennifer Aves-Elliot t , my t ireless PA, who makes t hings possible
and has t he daunt ing and unenviable t ask of managing my diary.
Finally a huge t hank you t o my beaut iful wife Tana for her unwavering support and our
four incredible children, Megan, Jack, Holly and Tilly for being t he best t eam a fat her could hope
for.

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