HOW TO STITCH SARI BLOUSE

Learn to stitch the indian sari blouse used for sari costume. The method
to stitch a blouse is very easy.
The pattern is useful in stitching a cut blouse.
Lets use a readymade measurement to stitch the blouse (refer above
diagram). I have used measurements in centimeter, You can do it with
inch measurement.
* chest =91 cm
* full length =38 cm
* Across back =35 cm
* sleeve length =25 cm
FRONT PART
* A - B =full length =38 cm
* A-C =arm hole =(chest/4)-4 =(91-4)/4 =18.7 cm
* C-D =chest loose =(chest/4)+2.5 =(91/4)+2.5 =25.2 cm
* A-I =front part =chest/3 =91/3 =30.3cm
* A-E =shoulder =AB/2 =35/2 =17.5 cm
* A-F =Neck Breadth =(chest/12)+1.5 =9 cm
* A-H =Front Neck =chest/8 =11.3 cm
* K-B =patti part =full length-front part=7.7 cm
PATTI PART (K-B part in the above diagram)
* A-C =full length =11 cm
* A-B =patti width
SLEEVE PART
* A-B =sleeve length =(chest/4)+2.5
* A-C =sleeve width =(chest/4)+2.5
* E-D =(chest/4-4)
Now let's see how to stitch the sari blouse. Before going to stitch the real
material , we'll draw the stitching pattern. I have used chart paper to
draw the stitching pattern. If u want to stitch a blouse of your size, take a
sample blouse you already have and take the measurements using inch
tape. It is nessesary to draw stitching patterns for both front and back
side .
BACK PART PATTERN
The curve on the right is the arm hole while the other curve is neck.
FRONT PART PATTERN
First draw a pattern same as the back side then from the
top measure 12 inch and draw a straight line. You can see
a straight line drawn at a distance of 12 inch from the
shoulder. The distance can vary from 12 to 13 inch based
on the breast size . A normal women can draw a line at
distance of 12" else 13".
Next measure 1/2 inch from the horizontal line and mark it.
Likewise measure 1/2 inch above the horizontal line on
both the extremes. Now as shown in the above diagram
draw a neat curve along the points . I've drawn the curve
in blue colour. Next step is to cut along the blue line like
the one below. The image below shows the front and the
back part pattern together.
Front part is cut into 2 parts. In the first part we have to
sewdarts then attach the patti part(2nd part) to the front
piece.
In the above image i've drawn the darts . Those are the
places where you have to sew darts.Now let's see how to
sew darts using the cloth. Then take the material to stitch
blouse. Below is the material i have used. Fold the cloth to
the exact breadth size of the pattern once as shown in the
figure . Then mark the edges with marking chalk. Next
carefully cut the edges without disturbing them. Make sure
the neck part is placed on the folded side.
After unfolding you can see both sides of the blouse.
Then 2 small darts have to stitched at the back part
straight to the shoulders.
Then the main three darts have to be stitched carefully in
the front part. Look at the stitching pattern diagram above
for the three main darts. The dart stitched at the bottom
should be bigger that the 2 darts at the left and right sides.
Darts at the back part and front part are stitched.
Next to the front part , the patti part has to be stitched.
After stitching the three main dots , the front part has to be
stitched to the patti part. The patti part should have the
remaining length so that it equals the back part.
Now the patti part is stitched to the main part. See to that
both back and front parts are of same length. Then make
sure you fold around the bottom line.
Next the front parts have to be joined to the back part. J ust
do that by stitching the shoulders correctly.
Next sleeve part is cut and attached to the arm. There are
2 options to stitch sleeve, you can join the sides then stitch
the sleeve else you can stitch the sleeve and then join the
sides. It depends on your comfort level. To cut the sleeve
use ur model blouse for size. J ust fold the cloth once and
place the model sleeve on it, then draw the shape and cut
it.
After the sleeve part is stitched, the neck crosspeice has
to be stitched and then hooks have to be stitched. Finally
we finish the complete blouse like this. Try and send your
feedback.