NATIONAL INSTITUTE

OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY PATNA

2D Apparel CAD and Grading

________________________________________________

Learning Diary
Submitted to –
Navanendra Singh

Submitted by –
Akansha Choudhary
BFT/19/286
2D APPAREL CAD AND GRADING

Objective
The objective of this subject is –
 To become aware of the concept of grading.
 To understand anthropometry.
 To know the fundamentals of pattern making, pattern
grading and marker making on apparel CAD software.

Introduction to Pattern Grading

Pattern grading is a technique used to increase or decrease
the size of a garment pattern according to the measurements
in a given size chart. It is the drafting process of enlarging or
diminishing a style pattern into patterns for other sizes.

The function of grading is to see that this is accomplished

with proper fit for the other size without changing the style
sense of the original model. This can be done manually or
digitally using computerized pattern cutting software. These
increments are referred to as garment grading rules. Each
specific clothing market area and level has different grading
rules.

Through pattern grading, you can maintain the essence of the

garment without altering the shape, fit, dimensions, design, or
the balance of the article of clothing. With the use of pattern
grading, it is possible to take one design and create alternate
dimensions as the size of the dress changes. This allows
designers and sewers of apparel to create one middle size,
usually size twelve, and then grade up or down as necessary.
Pattern Grading Methods
Pattern grading can be done manually or by using
computerized pattern making software. When it comes to
making graded patterns on the digital platform, first patterns
are made for all garment components for one size. Then is
grading of the pattern is by is done on the CAD system and
using plotter graded patterns are printed for use. Using
graded patterns you can cut samples for different sizes.

Manual Grading
The desired range of size is created one by one using pattern
templates/master patterns. A first master pattern pieces are
sketched on the pattern board and then the points are
marked around the pattern pieces as per the direction of
grade rules. In this way we can get both the enlarged or
reduced size patterns for all sizes of a particular style of
garments. A manually operated grading machine can also
perform this job. This device grips the master pattern pieces
and places on the pattern board as per the predetermined
direction after which appropriate edge can be traced out
maintaining the grade rule.

Advantages:

 Cost effective process

Disadvantages:
 Time consuming process
 Expected accuracy may not be obtained.

Computer Aided Grading

At first grade rules are stored in the computer memory and
then the computer can automatically develop pattern sets for
all sizes using the direction given in the grade chart.

Advantages:
 Quick process i.e. less time consumption;
 High accuracy may be obtained
Disadvantages:
 High initial cost is involved
 Skilled operator is required.

Two types of pattern grading are generally done in garment

industry:
 Half part grading: If the increasing is done in every sides
of a pattern, then it called half part grading.
 ¼ th part grading: If the grading acquires increasing or
decreasing in any two sides of a pattern, then it is called ¼
th part grading.

Stacking or “0” point for grading

For grading it is important to have stack point which will
define the “x” or “y” grading of pattern. It is defined as “0”
point located at the centre of the pattern of a Front, back or
sleeve panel. For centre front it is perpendicular to the centre
of check line. For sleeve the “0” point is centre of sleeve at the
bicep line.

Length Grade
 Front and back neck drop is applied to shoulder neck
point. Shoulder line should remain parallel between sizes.
 Body length is distributed between the shoulder neck
point and the bottom. Grading is divided between
shoulder/beck point, neck drop, armhole, waist, hip and
bottom. Body length combined grading is total of centre
front length and neck drop.
 Neck width is applied at the shoulder neck point it is
always parallel to check line.
 Armhole curve is combined measurement of armhole
width and armhole height grade.

Sleeve Grade
 Sleeve armhole is combined measurement of sleeve cap
height grade and sleeve bicep grade along the armhole
curve.
 Sleeve length from shoulder is distributed between the
sleeve cap and bottom sleeve edge. Sleeve cap grade is
applied above bicep line and sleeve cap while balance
length is divided between bicep line and sleeve cuff.
 Sleeve length from shoulder is distributed between the
sleeve cap and bottom sleeve edge. Sleeve cap grade is
applied above bicep line and sleeve cap while balance
length is divided between bicep line and sleeve cuff.

Sizing System
The commercial sizing system for Men’s clothing provide a
broad range –

Height groups and body form

Height Group:
 Short
 Medium
 Tall

Body Form:
 Regular
 Slim
 Large
 Athletic
 Stocky
 Portly

Men’s International Size Conversion

Chart
The below chart will help a person find the International
conversion chart for men’s sizing as it relates to finding the
right size for the following clothing items: jackets, coats,
trousers and dress shirts.
Each country has its own sizing standard. The below chart
covers all international sizing conversions for the American,
Italian, English, British, Japanese, Russian as well the European
size system for French, German, Italian, Spanish, Swedish,
Dutch and Portuguese clothing.

International Conversion Chart for

Men’s Suite Jackets, Blazers & Coats
US UK Europe Russia Japan Korea S-M-L
 Pants
US UK

Dress Shirts
US England Europe Japan S-XL
Height Groups and Garment Length
Important Measurements for Pattern
Making
Our key measurements are different depending on the type of
garment you’re planning to make. Before we can talk about
them, let’s get some common acronyms out of the way.

 CB - Center Back: refers to the center back of a garment

or body, along the spine.

 CF - Center Front: refers to the center front of a garment

or body from the hollow at the bottom of the neck straight
down.

 HPS - High Point Shoulder: refers to the top point of the

shoulder on either side of the neck.
Tops and Dresses
 Full Bust/Chest
 Full Hip
 Across Shoulder
 HPS to Apex
 CB Neck to Waist
 CF Neck to Waist
 Waist to Hip Length
 Additional measurements for dresses only:
 CB neck to floor
 CF neck to floor

Bottoms
 Full Hip
 High Hip
 Waist
 Total Rise
 Thigh
 Inseam

One-Piece Swimsuits, Rompers, and Other One

Piece Garments
 Full Bust/Chest
 Full Hip
 Across Shoulder
 HPS to Apex
 CB Neck to Waist
 CF Neck to Waist
 Waist to Hip Length
 Vertical Trunk

Secondary Body Measurements

Secondary body measurements are still important to pattern
making and even more important to grading your pattern
later on, so it’s important to be familiar with them. Just like
with the Key measurements, they vary depending on the type
of garment you want to make a pattern for. The reason for this
is that you wouldn’t necessarily need to take a bust cup
measurement if you’re making pants, but you’d certainly need
to make a bra.

Tops and Dresses

 Underbust
 Waist
 Neck Base
 Across Back
 Across Front
 Shoulder Length
 Arm Length from CB Neck to Wrist
 Arm Length from Shoulder Point to Wrist
 Bicep Circumference
 Elbow Circumference
 Forearm Circumference
 Wrist Circumference

Bras or Swim Tops

 Front Bust
 Apex to Apex
 Cup width
 Cup Depth
 Apex to Underbust
 Underbust

Bottoms
 Knee Circumference
 Calf Circumference
 Ankle Circumference
 Inseam
 Outseam
Different Girth Measurement of
Human Body

head girth

neck girth

chest girth

arm length
waist girth

hip girth

height

inside leg length

body mass KG
How to measure
Full Bust/Chest - this is measured at the fullest point of the
bust/chest (typically along the apex) around the full
circumference of the body, parallel to the floor.

Full Hip - this is measured at the fullest point of the hip

(typically at the lower ⅓ of the buttocks), parallel to the floor.

Across Shoulder - measured from shoulder socket to

shoulder socket. Sometimes it can be helpful to have the
model raise and then lower their arms so you can feel the
socket joint.

HPS to Apex - measured from HPS to apex point.

CB Neck to Waist - measured vertically from the C7
vertebrae to the natural waist along the spine.

CF Neck to Waist - measured vertically from the base of the

neck to natural waist along the center front of the body.

Waist to Hip length - measured along the natural side of the

body from natural waist to full hip level.

High Hip - circumference of the body measured at the hip

bones.

Waist - circumference measured at natural waist. It can be

helpful to have the model bend to the side to mark where
they bend, this is natural waist.
Total Rise - wrap the second measuring tape or ribbon
around the model at natural waist to mark it. Measure from
the CF waist point, through the legs, and up to the CB waist
point.

Vertical Trunk - measured from HPS, along the front of the

body, around the crotch, and up the back of the body back to
HPS.

Thigh - measured around the fullest part of the thigh.

Typically 1-2” below the hip joint.

Inseam - measured from the crotch to the floor along the

inner leg.
Thigh - measured around the
fullest part of the thigh. Typically 1-
2” below the hip joint.

Inseam - measured from the crotch

to the floor along the inner leg.

Total Rise - wrap the second

measuring tape or ribbon around
the model at natural waist to mark
it. Measure from the CF waist point,
through the legs, and up to the CB
waist point.

Vertical Trunk - measured from

HPS, along the front of the body,
around the crotch, and up the back
of the body back to HPS.
Pattern Grading
Pattern grading is the process of turning base size or sample
size patterns into additional sizes using a size specification
sheet or grading increments. This can be done manually or
digitally using computerized pattern drafting software.

Grading Terminology
 Grade – The ‘grade’ of a pattern is the incremental increase
or decrease in a pattern size at a given cardinal point. For
example; a large majority of commercial patterns will have
a 2″ grade. This means that there is a 2″ difference
between sizes.

 Grading – The process of increasing or decreasing the

dimensions of a base pattern style.

 Cardinal Points – The points on a pattern where it either

increases or decreases. E.g: Neck, shoulder, armhole,
length, girth etc. Base pattern – The original pattern
created (usually the middle of the size run). This is an
industry term. However, in the home setting…the base
pattern would be whatever pattern you are working with.
For example, in the ITS Insider Exclusive Library….there are
certain patterns that are only offered in 1 size, a size 6. This
would be your base pattern.

 Trueing – is the process of smoothing and shaping angular

and curved lines on a seam to create a nice transition.
Trueing includes checking to make sure seam lengths
match, corners are 90° angles where necessary, as well as
folding darts to create proper seam pattern shape.

 Size Run – The sizes included in a specific style. For

example; small, medium, large, xl…or, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12.
 Cut and Spread | Cut and Overlap – The process of
manually grading a sewing pattern by cutting the pattern
apart and increasing or decreasing its size.

 Pattern Shifting – The process of manually grading by

shifting a pattern back and forth to increase or decrease its
size.

 Suppression grading – This term is applied when the

amount of suppression in a pattern is increased or
decreased. Suppression is all forms of darts, seams, pleats
and gathers which are used to control shapes or contours.
It is nothing to do with styling. The suppression is to
reduce the girth measurements in relation to another
adjacent girth measurement.

 Balance – These are various interpretations of balance, but

it refers to the relationship between the front length from
nape over the bust to waist and floor, and back length
from nape to centre back waist to floor. It is also used as a
general description, as the word suggests, for a lack of
distortion.

 Nested (stacked) grading – This described the

superimposing of one size on another so that the
progression of increase is clearly visible.

Methods of Grading
In the apparel manufacturing basic pattern grading methods
are mainly divided into 2 types. They are

1. Manual pattern grading or two dimensional grading.

2. Computer-aided pattern grading or three dimensional
grading.
Manual pattern grading or 2D grading
The desired range of sizes is created, one by one, using a
pattern template. Marks are made around the master pattern
at the appropriate distances and the marks the later joined up
to form the enlarge pattern. There are two basic methods of
pattern grading. These include:

Cut and Spread

Cut and Spread grading method are starts by the use of
tracing and marking techniques from the original master
pattern to a white paper. Ensure that all the marking lines like
grain line, darts are visible here. In this method original
patterns are cut vertically into 3 parts and spread the cutting
pieces by a specific amount to grade up. Then overlap them
to grade down. To do this process, only scissors, a pencil,
measurement tape, and a ruler is required. This is the easiest
method, which acts as the basis of the other two methods. To
perform this method, you must cut the pattern and spread the
pieces by a certain amount to grade up, or overlap the pieces
to grade down. The only tools you will need for this method
are a pencil, tape, ruler, and scissors.

Base Pattern Draw lines + Cut Spread Blend + True

Pattern Shifting
Pattern shifting is another process of pattern grading. When
pattern or fashion designer want to increase or decrease the
overall dimensions of a pattern to get different sizes is called
pattern shifting. To make the pattern larger, transfer the
original pattern onto another sheet of paper. To make it
smaller, they will have to trim the edges to the desired
dimensions. It is done by moving the master pattern a certain
measured distance up and down and left and right using a
special designed ruler. To get the same result as the cut and
spread method designer redraw the outlines.

Base Pattern New Pattern

Advantages
 Cost effective process

Disadvantages:
 Time consuming process
 Expected accuracy may not be obtained.

Computer-aided pattern grading or 3D

grading
Computed grading (CAD) is the fastest pattern grading
techniques. But when it first came, it was only used by larger
fashion or apparel manufacturers for their production process.
Now CAD is more affordable software. By this method every
manufacturer’s get more accurate, precise, detailed patterns in
a short time. Computer grading is the most recent
development in grading technology. It is also the fastest
method. Computer grading, however, is expensive and usually
only large manufacturers can afford it. Computer grading
takes the processes of the two former methods and digitizes
them. There is not a superior method; they are all equally
capable of producing a correct garment grade.

Computer based grading systems operate in one of two ways:

 The grading increments are feed into the computer and
the different sizes are generated automatically using the
same methods as applied for manual grading.
 The pattern for each individual size is calculated separately
starting from the data in the size specification charts.

The resulting nest of patterns can be displayed to scale on the

computer monitor for visual assessment and if necessary,
adjustment.

Once the pattern set has been generated on the computer, it

may be used in various ways, depending on the level of
automation in the factory. In a fully automated system, the
garment parts will be sorted automatically and arranged into
a lay plan which can then be transmitted in the form of a
control program to the automatic laying and cutting system.
Alternatively, the patterns can be sent to a large plotting
device where they will be drawn at full scale to serve as paper
patterns for manual cutting. The patterns can also be used in
an automatic device for cutting templates from more durable
material.
Advantages:
 Quick process i.e. less time consumption;
 High accuracy may be obtained

Disadvantages:
 High initial cost is involved
 Skilled operator is required.

Grade Rule
A grade rule is a designated amount a pattern is made larger
or smaller at one given point in order to make it fit a range of
sizes.

[The “one given point” at which a grade rule is placed is called

a cardinal point. The grading police will not come and get you
if you don’t know this.]
In the illustration at right,
there are grade rules
placed at the (cardinal
points) neck and shoulder
juncture, the outside
shoulder tip and midway
down through the armhole.
The illustration is only a
visual example that shows
how a manual pattern is
mapped.

A CAD pattern is graded at the same cardinal points of course

but it doesn’t look like this on screen. A discussion of grade
mapping is in my book in the section titled A practical guide
to grading starting on pages 170-175. Because designers are
not expected to specify grade rules, there will not be a test on
this later.

Grade Rule Library

A grade rule library is a collection of grade rules that will be
used to grade a pattern according to the desired size
specifications. I realize that the word “Library” conjures up the
idea of a large collection but a library amounts to a chart of
data. It’s a library in that it is a “collection” but not in that it is
large.
Each library will vary according to the type of grade, features
and fabric properties of a design. For example, you will need
two different libraries for two identical tops if one is knit and
the other is a woven. Or, you will need two different libraries if
one of the tops is graded SML and the other in numbered
sizes. Grade rule libraries are usually made by copying and
pasting data from one or more rule libraries to create new
ones. Again you don’t have to worry about this. I cannot think
of an instance in which a designer would be responsible for
creating grade rule libraries unless they wanted to.

Grade Specifications
Grade specifications are relatively general but can be more
complex depending. A grade spec is a measure you specify to
indicate how much you want each size to grow or shrink (this
is also in my book in the grading section I mentioned). You
should know something about sizing to know whether you
want each size to increase an inch or two and also for height.
There are several earlier entries about this on this site that I
will link to at close.

More complex grade specs are appropriate if you are

targeting a specific niche but again, you need to know
something about grading and in that case, probably won’t be
reading this except to double check yourself because it seems
like half the time that the rest of the world has gone crazy so
you begin to wonder if it’s you or everyone else.

Grading of Skirt
The Müller & Sohn grading system is recognized worldwide
and is considered the optimal basis for grading manually.
Increasing and reducing patterns in size is a tough task even
within a computer program. It requires the ability to reason as
well as technical knowledge. Thorough control of the system
is absolutely necessary when grading design patterns.
Grading a Straight Skirt Pattern with
Darts and Waistband from Size 38 to
Size 36 and 34
Each size is drawn since
there are two different
waist and hip girth
increments when grading
down the skirt pattern.

The grade rules are shown in the illustration. The hip grade for
the respective size is ¼ hip girth increment whereas the grade
rule for the waist grade is ¼ waist girth increment.
Grading Increment Calculations
Based on size chart Gr. 38 – Gr. 34:

 Waist girth: Size 38 to 36 = 40 mm

 Waist girth: Size 36 to 34 = 30 mm
 Hip girth: Size 38 to 36 = 30 mm
 Hip girth: Size 36 to 34 = 40 mm
 Skirt length: 5 mm + 5 mm = 10 mm

Basic Bodice Measurement Chart

Grade Rule Chart

Grade Lines
Grading of Shirt – Measurement
Specification Chart

Digital Pattern Making

Pattern making process is required to run an apparel business
smoothly. Accuracy in pattern decides garment quality. With
the time, everything is coming in software so pattern making
cannot be an exception.

Before it achieved manually, but now it is impossible to run it

perfectly considering time, situation and business volume.
Manual pattern making task was tough and clumsy because
all tasks handled by a skilled technician. Now it become very
easy due to the advancement of computer technology.

The pattern making software is a part of CAD system.

Abbreviation of CAD is Computer Aided Designing. A CAD
system is used for pattern making as well as for marker
making and pattern grading. Other than garment business,
many professionals use the CAD system to provide pattern
making services.
Pattern making is a system where a pattern maker can
transform a sketch into a digital image and then can be
printed through a plotter. The efficiency and overall profit &
loss of the industries depend on pattern making and marker
making efficiency. Thus, a proper CAD software should be
chosen.

Pattern Making Software used in

Industry
 Lectra
 Optitex
 Tuka CAD
 Gerber Accumark
 Richpeace
 Crea
 GT CAD Software
 Etelestia
 Fashion CAD
 Gemini CAD system
 PAD system
 Romans CAD
 Dimension CAD
 Wild Ginger

These are some well-known software, which are generally

used in the apparel industry.

Common Features Provided by any

Pattern Making Software
Pattern Making
All the above listed software provides pattern making tools to
make pattern faster and accurately.
Digitizing
Many time buyer gives a manual block and by using digitizer,
manual blocks are transferred in to software to alter in to
required shapes. After alteration these patterns are used for
further process.

Pattern Grading
In this process, patterns of different sizes are produced from
the original master pattern. In the tech pack grading chart is
given – Pattern maker follow that grading chart and then do
grading. Digitally graded pattern blocks are perfected for each
size and digitally checked for accuracy for each size before
proceeding to final bulk production.

Marker Making
After pattern making by using tools or by altering pattern
from digitization- grading is done. After grading the next
process is marker making. Marker efficiency is the percentage
of total fabric that is actually used in garment parts. This is
determined automatically by marker making software. Marker
efficiency is the most important part of garment
manufacturing as this is directly connected to fabric cutting
and how much fabric may waste during the production. Fabric
utilization directly affects costing so all software making
companies are continuously working hard to provide special
features to get maximum efficiency.

3D Visualization and Simulation

This program is getting popular in apparel industry. Many are
working on 3D virtual fit simulation. How any design will look
with a particular drape property can be visualized with 3D
simulator.
These are some common features provided by the pattern
making software, one can always learn more about the
software by visiting their official website, and by knowing
individual features.

Cutting Section in Apparel Industry

Cutting room is a section in the garments industry where to
cut fabrics as per the pattern, marker; cutting parts sew to
bring in garments form. Cutting is the most sensitive
operation in the apparel industry, cutter man work accuracy is
the key here to maintain good cutting quality. If you are
related to the apparel industry or apparel manufacturing
process you should know cutting work activities. Some certain
rules and procedure have to maintain by the cutting
department I am giving the cutting process flow chart step by
step below for your easy understanding.

Cutting Working Process Flow chart

Cutting plan based on shade band record

↓
Receive PO sheet, Tech pack, and other detail
↓
Fabric received from a store as per requisition
↓
Relax fabric if necessary with record
↓
Make a Marker to Determine consumption
↓
Marker and pattern Cross Check (ratio, grainline, jumping,
etc.)
↓
 Laying as per marker length (Spreading)
↓
Spreading quality control
↓
Random quality check on fabric fault & others
↓
A cutting (if necessary hand scissoring done during check
fabric) and band Knife cutting (small panel such as single fly
etc.)
↓
Cutting Quality control
↓
Randomly Panel check with hard pattern
↓
Panel check with CAD marker paper
↓
Layer numbering &bundling
↓
100% panel check
↓
Replace defective parts shade wise
↓
Ready cutting parts to input.
↓
Supply to Fusing & Sewing as per approved requisition &
ratio

Flow Chart of Garments Cutting

Section
The process flow is described briefly –

Fabrics Relaxation
 Spandex fabrics can be relaxed from 24 to 48 hours before
spreading as per customer requirements.
 Cotton fabric relaxation will depend on customer
requirements.

Pre-Spreading and Spreading Quality control

1. Pattern and marker checking using approved sample
2. Pattern grainline
3. Spreading table marking lengthwise with allowance
4. Shade wise spreading by using a fabrics shade chart
5. Spreading defects like leaning, bowing, skew, narrow
goods, tension, and marking visual defects.

Cut Panel Inspection

1. Quality an inspector will check Panel using a Hard pattern

after cutting from three different positions Top, Middle,
and Bottom
2. If there is any discrepancy, a correction will be immediate.
If the panel is found plus from hard patterns, it will have to
cut extra parts. If the panel is found minus from the hard
pattern, will have to place the fabric under marker as per
lay chart to remake again.
3. All cut panels will be inspected to detect any types of
fabric fault if any defective panel is found, will be replaced
from lay chart wise remnants by following the shade and
pattern grain line.

 Production Order Sheet: Cutting Section firstly takes the

PO sheet. They find out all detailed information in the PO
sheet especially size breakdown, size-wise, and color-wise
order quantity.

 Pattern receives: They receive the approved pattern from

the sample section.

 Marker Making: After pattern receiving, they make

 markers according to the order sheet and pattern size.

 Fabric receives: Fabric is the main raw material in the

cutting section. All success depends on cutting. So the
cutting section has to become serious when they receive
the fabric. Is the right fabric for the right marker or not.

 Fabric Spreading: Before spreading the fabric on a table

they relax the unrolled fabric for 12-24 hr. After completing
relaxation they spread the fabric on a table with proper
tension.

 Marker Placing: Marker is a thin paper that carries all the

garments components and is placed on fabric lay for
cutting. Before cutting the marker from CAD was placed on
the fabric lay. Marker checked very carefully before
placement on fabric.

 Cutting: In this step, cutting is done by a cutter machine.

Straight knife cutting machines, Round knife cutting
machines are mostly used for cutting.

 Sorting: After cutting the cut parts are sorted according to

shade, size-wise.

 Numbering & checking: In this step, the cut parts are

numbered and checked carefully so that the single
components are never mistaken. QC checks the cut parts. If
any defect is found they replace the cut piece.

 Bundling: The cut pieces are bundled finally.

 Input to Sewing: The bundled cut piece is ready for
sewing.
Marker
A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern
pieces for sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from in
one spread. (source: Apparel Manufacturing, Glock and Kunz)

Marker Making
Marker making is the process of determining a most efficient
layout of pattern pieces for a style, fabric and distribution of
sizes (source: Apparel Manufacturing, Glock and Kunz).
Factories those don’t have a CAD system perform this process
manually. In manual marker making to make an efficient
marker one need time, skill and concentration. Now-a-day
Marker making is mostly done by CAD systems which give
accuracy, increase control over variables and reduces the time
required in making markers

Marker Efficiency?
Marker efficiency is defined as a ratio of area of marker used
in a garment and area of total marker.

Secondly, Glock and Kunz have defined this term in their

book, Apparel Manufacturing as Marker efficiency is
determined from fabric utilization, the percentage of total
fabric that is actually used in garment parts.

Note: Marker efficiency and Fabric utilization is not same

thing. In marker efficiency calculation fabric wastage due to
end bits and end loss is not included but in fabric utilization
calculation all kinds of fabric wastage are included.

How to calculate Marker Efficiency?

The calculation method of marker efficiency has been
explained below with formula.
Formula 1
Marker efficiency% = (Area of marker used for garments / Area
of total marker) * 100

 Area of marker used for garments: In case of CAD

marker, CAD system automatically calculates the total area
of garment pattern pieces placed in a marker. So you get
the area of marker that is consumed by garments from a
CAD system.

 Total Marker Area: To calculate the total marker area

simply multiply marker length by marker width.

In a manual marker, it is difficult to measure the surface area

of garments patterns in a marker. You can use a mechanical
device, Planimeter, to calculate the surface area of pattern
pieces from outlines of the pattern pieces.

Another method can be practiced to calculate marker

efficiency when you don’t have CAD system or Panimeter.
Calculate ratio of weight of fabric consumed by pattern pieces
and total weight fabric under total marker area. So a separate
formula is used to find marker efficiency.

Formula 2
Marker efficiency% = (Weight of fabric consumed by patterns
pieces in a marker / Total weight of fabric under the marker
area)*100

 Weight of garment parts: To calculate the weight of

garment parts cut one layer of fabric according to markers
and weigh all garment parts that are included in a marker.

 Weight of marker total area: Measure the weight of

fabric (one layer) of total marker area.
Methods of marker planning
The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most
efficient combination of sizes and shades for each order and
to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization.
One garments cutting order may require several markers to
achieve optimum efficiency of marker.

A marker is made for a specific style, fabric, and number of

sizes. The length of the marker determines the length of the
lay that will be spread. Completed markers are sent to the
cutting room electronically or in hard copy for the spreading
and cutting processes.

Manually produced marker

Manually produced markers may be created by arranging full-
size pattern pieces on marker paper or directly on the top ply
of fabric in a spread. Pattern pieces are traced using a pencil
or tailor’s chalk. Manual methods of marker making are time-
consuming and require a great deal of space. Full-size pattern
pieces must be manipulated and adjusted, on normal fabric
widths by moving around until a satisfactory plan is obtained.
Manually made markers are also subject to errors and
inconsistencies that may occur in grain variations, poor line
definition, placement and alignment of pieces, and omission
of pieces. Accuracy of a manually made marker depends on
the skill of the individual who laid out the marker and traced
it.

After completion of marker planning, it is necessary to draw

on paper as more commonly a paper marker is used for
cutting. Multiple copies of paper marker are normally needed.
These copies can either be made when the marker plan is first
drawn, or the master marker can be reproduced as needed by
a variety of methods. Such as;

Carbon Duplicating: Carbon duplicating method is used

when small numbers of copies are to be made as the original
is drawn. Double sided carbon paper or special type of paper
can be used. In this method, six to eight copies can be made
without too great a deterioration in the fineness of the line.

Spirit Duplicating: In Spirit Duplicating or hectograph

carbon system, the master marker is drawn on the paper with
the layer of special hectograph paper underneath it. This
paper transfers a blue line on the back of the master as it is
drawn. The master marker is then used to make one copy at a
time in a duplicating machine. The machine uses alcohol to
wet a plain white paper which is then passed with the master
marker between two rollers transferring lines onto the copy.

Diazo photographic method: The diazo photographic

method makes as many copies of the markers are needed,
one at time, following the drawing of a master marker. The
master marker and light-sensitive paper are passed under
high intensity of ultraviolet light and the light –sensitive paper
is developed using ammonia vapor. The lines and other
markings on the master marker prevent exposure to light
sensitive paper which forms the copy; when developed the
lines remain visible.

These copying methods were widely used in the 1970s, but

have been steadily overtaken by the popularity by
computerized plotting. After computerized marker planning,
markers are plotted out as a required. This procedure has
proved far more versatile and more appropriate for responsive
manufacturing than any of these predecessors

Computerized marker
Computerized marker making is more accurate and provides
the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation, marker
efficiency, reuse of previously made markers, and shortest
response time. Production patterns may be developed on the
computer and/or digitized or scanned into the computer. In
addition, parameters for markers are entered into the
computer from cutting orders. These might include style
numbers, size distribution, and fabric width. Technicians
manipulate pattern images on computer screens and
experiment with various configurations to determine the best
material utilization for the marker. Protective devices are built
into the programs to ensure grain alignment and prevent
overlapping or omission of pieces or other errors. Once
markers have been planned and stored, they can be printed or
recalled and modified for new cutting orders.

With newer marker-making software, markers can be

automatically created. A computer can automatically develop
different markers according to the criteria set by a technician.
Automated marker making may be used to determine
yardage requirements and fabric costs for designs prior to line
adoption. Other firms use automated marker making to
generate their markers.
Plotting
Plotting is the process of drawing or printing pattern pieces or
markers on paper so they can be reviewed or cut. Computer-
driven plotters may draw pattern pieces, graded nests of
patterns, and/or markers with complete annotation,
depending on the needs of the apparel firm. New multi-head
jet plotters are much faster and can print variable line density
and width, text identification information, and bar codes.
Plotting may be the bottleneck in the pre-production
processes if a firm runs a lot of copies. Firms using
computerized cutters may not need paper markers to guide
the cutting process and therefore may only print identification
information for bundles.

Cutting Parameters
Cutting and Lay preparation depends on the following
parameters -
 Fabric type
 Spreading mode
 Marker mode
 Garment type
 Pattern types

Spreading
Fabric spreading is a process by which plies of fabric is
spreaded in order to get required length and width as per
marker dimension. This is a preparatory operation for cutting
and consists of laying.

It means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed

layer (plies) of specified length. The cutting marker is laid on
the top most layers. The maximum width of the cutting
marker is considered by the usable width of the fabric. During
spreading number of lay should be not more than three
hundreds. But it depends on thickness of the fabric and the
height of the knife. The spread can be of two basic types:

1. Flat and
2. Stepped

Objects
 To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the
marker plan correctly aligned as to length and width and
without tension.
 To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric through the
use of multi garment maker plans and the saving in cutting
time per garment that result from cutting many plies at a
time.
 To make every ply plain and flat.

Spreading Mode
The modes of marker making and spreading are essential
concepts in apparel mass production, where garment
symmetry and fabric symmetry affect the selection of marker
modes as well as the methods of spreading and cutting. These
factors affect the cost of the product as well.

To define marker making and spread modes, we use specific

definitions of fabric and garment symmetry. There are two
types of fabrics classified based on their visual appearance-

Symmetric Fabrics
No change in appearance when the fabric is turned 180
degrees in the same plane. In most cases, fabric symmetry is
concerned with only the face side and the back is of minimal
concern, as it shall be inside the garment and out of the view.
Solid colour plain weave fabrics are often symmetric.
Asymmetric Fabrics
If there is a change in appearance when the fabric is turned
180 degrees in the same plane then the fabric is said to be
asymmetric. Even if a fabric when rotated at 180 degrees,
causes a change in colour due to light reflection is
asymmetric. Refer to the illustration below-

Understanding fabric nap directions

The surface directionality or the view of the fabric is called a
nap. Or if the fabric has surface fibres /short threads (like
velvet, corduroy, etc), the direction that they naturally lay is
the nap of the fabric. A nap of the fabric is created by its
structure, a finish, or a directional print.
Spreading Mode of Fabrics
The way in which fabric plies are spread for cutting is called
determination of the spreading mode. While spreading the
fabric it is important to consider the direction of the fabric
nap. There are two ways in which a fabric can be spread
depending on its type (symmetry, asymmetry)-
Spreading Mode of Fabrics
The way in which fabric plies are spread for cutting is called
determination of the spreading mode. While spreading the
fabric it is important to consider the direction of the fabric
nap. There are two ways in which a fabric can be spread
depending on its type (symmetry, asymmetry)-

 Nap one way - As the name suggests, the nap is in the

same direction implying that this spreading mode is for
asymmetric and unidirectional fabrics. (Refer to example 1)

 Nap either way- As the name suggests, the nap can be

in any direction which means that this type of spreading
mode is ideal for symmetric fabrics that do not change
their appearance despite 180° rotation in the same plane.
(Refer to example 3)

Now, the fabric face (while placing different layers on top of

each other) may be positioned in two ways-

 Face one way (F/O/W) - Which means, all plies facing

in the same direction (either upward or downward)

 Face-to-face (F/F) - This means, the face side of one

layer is placed against the face side of another fabric layer.

Overall, we can now say that for any fabric there are the
following possibilities in which they can be spread-

1. Nap one way, face one way (NOW, F/O/W)

2. Nap either way, face to face (NEW, F/F)
3. Nap one way, face to face (NOW, F/F)
4. Nap either way, face one way (NEW, F/O/W)
 Spreading Modes

Marker Mode
There are three types of marker modes:
 Nap-either-way (N/E/W)
 Nap-one-way (N/O/W)
 Nap-up-and-down (N/U/D)

Nap-either-way (N/E/W):
In this case, the term nap is to indicate the fabric is directional
- it is different end-to-end. The nap of a fabric is created by its
structure (corduroy or an unbalanced plaid), a finish, or a
directional print. With symmetric, no directional fabrics,
pattern pieces can be placed on a marker with only
consideration for grain line. This marker mode is called nap-
either-way (N/E/W). Pieces are placed for best fabric
utilization.
Nap-one-way (N/O/W):
With asymmetrical and directional fabrics the orientation of
pattern pieces is extremely important to the consistency and
quality of the product. These fabrics require that all pattern
pieces be placed on a marker in only one direction. This is
called Nap-one-way.

Nap-up-and-down (N/U/D):
On some directional fabrics, such as corduroy, it may be
possible for all the pattern pieces of one size to be placed in
one direction and another size placed ill the opposite
direction. This is called nap-up-and-down (N/U/D).