SPRITE and BIGFOOT DESKTOP CNC MACHINE

KIT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

README FIRST:
Thank you for purchasing your MyDIYCNC Desktop CNC Machine Kit. We hope this versatile
and innovative machine brings you many hours of productive work and enjoyment.
Login to your MyDIYCNC account on our website and from the Support > Downloads and
the Support > Resources areas download the Comprehensive Plans & Manual (CP&M)
eBook, the Anti-backlash & Motor Couplings Assembly instructions and the Electronics &
Wiring Instructions. If you purchased the optional limit switches kit, you will also need to
download the Limit Switch Assembly Instructions.
While these instructions apply to both our Sprite and BigFoot models, the instructions
depict a Sprite build. Assembly of a BigFoot Desktop CNC Machine Kit will be identical.
Your unpacked kit should look like this:

PLEASE NOTE: Do not remove the tape on the underside edges of the table. This is a
special wear-resistant, ultra-slip Teflon tape and is necessary for the your CNC to perform
properly.
CAUTION: Using manual and power tools is usually a safe endeavor, as long as the user
is attentive and cautious. Your CNC machine is a sophisticated and versatile power tool
that can bring you many hours of creative and rewarding use. Please use it with the
same caution and respect you would give any power tool with a sharp cutting bit .
Always Safery First.
MyDIYCNC Sprite Desktop CNC Machine Step-by-Step Assembly Instructions

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN:

For this project you will need the following tools:

Two 7/16 (metric 11) wrenches or one 7/16 wrench and a pair of pliers

A #1 and a #2 Phillips screwdriver

Some dishsoap and water

Light machine oil, such as 3 in 1 oil, sewing machine oil, or airtool oil.

Two Hex wrenches (Allen keys), 7/64 and 1/16

The 7/64 will attach carriage parts.
The 1/16 hex is for the set screw in the spindle mounts. Your set screw is already
installed inside of the upper and lower spindle mounts for you, however you will
need to tighten them.

A sharp utility knife (AKA box cutter or Stanley knife)

Power drill or screwdriver with #2 Phillips bit (optional)

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PREPARATION:
You should assemble the Anti-backlash wing nuts and springs onto the threaded rods before
starting assembly of the machine. Please refer to the Anti-backlash & Motor Couplings
Instructions document. Doing this in advance will make your build easier. You can find
additional instructions for this step in the CP&M eBook. Make sure that the wingnut with
holes in it is the one nearest the motor coupling. Once assembled they will look like those
shown in the picture below. Put them to one side until step 3.2 below.

So, let's begin...

STEP 1: Assembling the Frame

1.1: Locate the front and rear frame members, as shown. The rear frame member has the
set of three holes in a row (top bar in picture), while the front frame member has a row of
five holes and a recess for the motor (bottom bar in picture).

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Insert the grommets into the front and rear frame members in the outside holes of the
group, making sure that they are inserted completely, as shown in the picture.

Take care not to tear the grommets, and make sure they are seated uniformly in their hole.
The hole through the center of the grommet will look nice and round if seated correctly.
Your front and rear frame members should now look like this.

1.2: Building the rest of the chassis assembly upside down is the easiest way to complete
the frame. You will have 4 long rail tubes: 2 will have a row of 6 holes and a single hole in
each end (rail A); 2 will have a row of four holes with a large hole through each end (rail B),
as shown in the picture.

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First, lay out both of rail A so that the end holes face upwards. Place the rear frame
member across the rail A's frame members on the end where the row of 6 holes are closer
together, aligning the end holes on each piece. Please refer to the picture for correct
orientation. The rear frame member's holes face inwards as show.
Place the front frame member across the other end of rail A's making sure that the recess
of the center hole faces outwards, the grommets are on the inside of the frame and that
the end holes align, as shown in the picture.

Now place the remaining two side members on top of the frame so that they are directly
above bottom side frame members and that as shown.

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1.3: Align the holes holes and place diagonal brace from one corner to the opposite end
corner as shown (doesn't matter which opposing corners you choose). Insert 1/4-20 X 2 1/2
Hex cap bolt into the 4 end holes as shown. Hold the locknut in place with a finger while
you start the thread.

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Use two 7/16 (metric 11) wrenches, or a wrench and pliars, to tighten until snug. Do not
over tighten as the frame members could bend under too much torque.

Attach the 4 black bumpers (feet) provided in your hardware kit.

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Now turn over your assembled frame. It should now look like the one shown in the picture.

STEP 2: Assemble Table

NOTE: As already mentioned, do not remove the tape from the table.
2.1: Locate the 12
Igus bearings in your
kit. Insert 4 bearings
into their holes in the
X Carriage Block.
They should snap in
easily and fit snugly
in their hole.
Repeat the process
for the remaining 8
bearings in the Y and
Z carriages. Your set
of 3 carriages will
look like those shown
in the picture below.
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2.2: Locate the table, 4 table spacers and 4 6-32 x 1 flathead machine screws as shown.

Place spacers on top of X Carriage Block, aligning them with corresponding holes on the flat
face of the X Carriage Block.

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Place the table on top of the spacers with the holes counter-sink side facing upward.
Insert the (4) 6-32 X 1 flathead screws through holes. Finger-start the screw into the
assembly, taking care not to cross-thread the screws. Once started they should screw in
easily.

Snug them down with your screwdriver. Your table is now assembled and should look like
the one in the picture below.
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2.3: Make a small solution of water with a little dish soap. Taking the two longest guide
rods, lubricate them with the soapy water so that you can easily slide them through the
rubber grommets. With a rotating motion push the rods through the front grommets so that
they protrude inside the chassis frame. If the grommets become difficult to thread through
or if they start to curl out of their holes, add some more soapy solution to lubricate them.
Now pass the
rods through
the X Carriage
bearings and
into the rear
frame
member
grommets.
Make sure
that the
closer two
holes on the
anti-backlash
mounting
block are
nearest the
front of the
chassis, as
shown in this
picture.
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The rods should pass easily through the bearings. If you encounter resistance, do not force
the rod through. Retract the rod, apply a small drop of lubricating oil on the rod and try
again.

Pass each rod through the bearings and into the rear grommets so that you feel them touch
the back of the frame member.

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Your completed chassis base should

look like this.

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STEP 3: Drivetrain Assembly

3.1: Insert the 1 piece of white tubing into the center hole on the inside of the rear frame
member, as shown in the picture. This tubing prevents the threaded rod from rubbing
against the frame member.

Push it in until it touches the back of the frame member. When inserted it should look like
the picture below.

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3.2: Insert the longest threaded rod with your anti-backlash assembly on it through the
frame so that the end with the coupling on it passes through the front frame member, as
shown in this picture. Slide the table all the way forward as shown.

Align the holes in the wingnut with the corresponding holes in the X Carriage Block as
shown.

Please be sure to read the separate Anti-backlash & Coupling Assembly Instructions for
details on adjusting the mechanism to eliminate backlash from your drivetrain. Once
adjusted, attach the anti-backlash wingnut to the X Carriage Block using the 6-32 x 3/8
machine screws provided in the anti-backlash kit.

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STEP 4: Attaching the Y Axis to the Chassis

4.1: Locate the two Gantry Support Uprights (GSU) as shown in the picture. Note that they
are different. The right-hand GSU (when looking from the front of the machine) has
additional holes to mount the Y axis motor and the guide rod holes are all the way through
the piece. On the Left-hand GSU they are pockets, as opposed to holes. The picture below
shows the difference in the two GSU's. The outside face of each GSU is facing up in this
picture.

Locate the set of 8 #8 x 3/4 screws and screw them into the outside face of each GSU
through the four GSU mounting holes at the bottom of each piece as shown.

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Screw them in far enough that the tip of the screw is just starting to protrude from the
material, as shown in in the next picture. You will use this protruding tip to locate the GSY
in the frame.

When orienting the GSU's on the frame, please note that the longest flat edge of the GSU
faces rearward. The GSU with the motor mounting holes is attached to the right[hand side
of the chassis frame while the GSU with the guide rod pockets attached to the left-hand
side. The GSU will mount to the corresponding set of four holes in the frame, two in each
side rail, as shown in the picture below.

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Starting with the left-hand GSU, use the protruding screw tips to locate the GSU in it's
mounting holes. It will be easier if you put the chassis frame on it's side as shown. Screw
the GSU to the frame as indicated in the following picture. Make sure that the screws are
firm, but do not over-tighten as that will distort the GUS material.

There should be no gap between the side rails and the GSU's. If you have any gaps, back out
the screw(s) nearest the gap until the GSU lays flat against the rail. Hold the GSU against
the rail and tighten the screws again to eliminate the gap.

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Once attached the chassis with GSU should look like this.

4.2: Flip the assembly over onto its other side. Press the Y axis guide rods (the secondlongest pair) into the pockets in the left-hand GSU as shown below. They should fit snugly.

Slide the Y Carriage Block over the rods, making sure that the pair of anti-backlash holes
are on the motor side of the carriage, as you did with the X axis. The larger part of the Y
Carriage is above the Y axis rails, and the flat face of the carriage is facing the rear of the
frame. See the pictures for reference.

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Place the right-hand GSU over the rods so that they fit into the two guide rail holes. You
may need to tap down the GSU to fit it evenly over the rods. You can use the Gantry Back
Brace to place over the GSU and tap it to distribute the force of your hammer and even the
pressure of the GSU going over the rods.
CAUTION: DO NOT tap or hit the rods directly with your hammer as this may distort
them and may damage the pockets on the other end. Always use a board to dissipate
the force.
When the rods are firmly in the holes, using the remaining 4 #8 x 3/4 screws and attach
the right-hand
GSU in the
same manner
as you did the
left-hand GSU.
As you did for
the other side,
be sure that
there are no
gaps between
the GSU and
the frame.

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Finally, insert the 3/8 white tube into the left-hand GSU as shown.

STEP 5: Build the Y and Z Carriages

5.1: Locate one of your stepper motors, the Z Axis Upper Cap Plate and the 4 14mm M3
machine screws provided, as shown in the picture.

Place the motor on the side of the Upper Cap Plate without guide rod pockets. Rotate the
motor so that the wires come out of the motor on the same side as the edge that has two
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threaded holes. This is the rear of the plate and your motor wires will face backwards when
installed.

Insert the M3 machine screws through the four motor mounting holes and tighten them
down to secure the motor firmly to the plate. Your Upper Cap Plate will look like the
following picture. Put this assembly aside and locate the Lower Cap Plate.

As with the Upper Cap Plate, the Lower Cap Plate has two threaded holes in the rear edge
that match the two holes at the bottom of the Y Carriage Block, as seen in the picture.
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With the guide rail pockets facing upwards, attach the Lower Cap Plate to the Y Carriage
Block with 2 of the hex socket head 6-32 x 3/4 screws using your 7/16 hex wrench as
shown. Finger-start them so as to not cross-thread the screws, and tighten down firmly with
the hex wrench.

5.2: Place the Y axis threaded rod assembly between the Y axis guide rods so that the
wingnut holes align with their mounting holes, as shown in the picture. The coupling end of
the rod should pass through the motor mounting hole in the right-hand GSU.

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Attach the anti-backlash wingnut to the Y Carriage Block with the 2 6-32 x 3/8 machine
screws provided. Please follow the instructions in the separate Anti-backlash & Motor
Coupling Instructions document for dialing out backlash in your Y axis.

5.3: Take the Z motor assembly you built in step 5.1 above and firmly press the motor
coupling onto the motor driveshaft as shown in the next picture. It is a tight fit, so you will
need too exert firm pressure to press it onto the shaft. It should cover the entire shaft BUT
NOT TOUCH the motor casing.

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As you have already done for the X and Y axes, align the Z anti-backlash wingnut holes with
the corresponding holes in the Z Carriage Block and attach it with the 2 6-32 x 3/8
machine screws provided. Make sure that the rounded corners of the Z Carriage Block are
nearest the motor. Use the same technique you found in the separate Anti-backlash & Motor
Coupling instructions to dial out backlash from your Z axis. Your Z axis drivetrain should
look like this.

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5.4: The tips of the wingnuts have to be trimmed to clear the two Z guide rods. Make sure
you have a sharp/new blade in your utility knife for this step.
CAUTION: To avoid injury please be very careful to keep your fingers away from your knife
when cutting in this next step.
As shown in the next picture, trim the tips of the wingnut back so that they are flush/even
with the sides of their mounting block. Use the edge of the mounting block as a guide.

When trimmed pass the two Z guide rods through the Z Carriage Block to make sure they
clear the trimmed wingnut, as shown below. Slide the Z guide rods up into the pockets in
the Upper Cap Plate.
5.5: Place the Z
Carriage and the Z
guide rods into the
two pockets in the
Lower Cap Plate.
Your Z guide rods
should now be held
on both ends in the
cap plates. Align the
two holes in the rear
of the Z upper cap
plate with the
corresponding holes
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in the top edge of Y Carriage Block. Attach the Upper Cap Plate with the 2 hex socket head
6-32 x 3/4 screws provided, using your 7/16 hex wrench as shown. Finger-start them so
as to not cross-thread the screws, and tighten down firmly with the hex wrench.

STEP 6: Attach the X and Y Motors

6.1: You can use either remaining motor for either axis. Just as you attached the Z Motor to
it's coupling, press the X axis motor into its coupling as shown. Apply firm pressure as it is a
tight fit, making sure that the coupling doesn't touch the motor casing.

6.2: Align two of the motor mounting holes with the corresponding holes on the chassis
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front frame member. The motor cables should point downwards. The raised flange on the
motor should fit snugly into the recess machined into the frame. Attach with the two
longest M3 30mm machine screws as shown in the picture. Tighten down for a firm fit.

Your Sprite Desktop CNC Machine should now look

like this.
6.3: Press the Y motor into it's coupling as you have
done with the X and Z axes as shown in the picture.
Use firm pressure and DO NOT LET the coupling
touch the motor casing.

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Align the motor with the four

motor mount holes in the GSU
and attach the motor using the
4 M3 x 14mm machine screws
provided. The motor cables
should point downwards. The
raised flange on the motor
should fit into the large center
hole of the motor mount.
Tighten them down with a
screwdriver to ensure a firm,
secure fit.

STEP 7: Attach the Spindle

Note: Shown is the HiTorque spindle. The procedure is identical for the Standard
Spindle.
7.1: Locate the two spindle retaining rings. Place them over the spindle body, starting with
the largest, sliding it up the body. The smaller spindle mount will be a snug fit for the nose
of the spindle. Press the spindle firmly into the mount as shown.

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Orient the spindle mounts so that the speed control knob

and the chuck lock both face forward. Make sure the
upper spindle mount is in the correct location by holding
it against the Tool Backplate as shown in the picture
below. The holes in the back edge of the spindle mounts
must match the location of the corresponding holes on the
Tool Backplate.
7.2: In the rear of the spindle mounts you will find set
screws in the threaded holes. In the smaller nose mount
the set screw is in the center of the rear face, between
the two mounting holes. In the larger spindle mount,
there are set screws INSIDE the two threaded mounting
holes. Using your 1/16 hex wrench, tighten the set
screws in only the nose mount so that its clamp the spindle in position.

7.3: Using 2 of the hex head 6-32 x 1/2 machine screws provided, attach the spindle nose
mounting bracket to the Tool Backplate. Make sure the screws are firmly tightened.

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Align the upper mounting bracket so that you can see the bracket mounting holes through
the corresponding holes in the Tool Backplate. Using the 1/16 hex wrench, tighten the set
screws in the upper spindle mount to lock in the spindle as shown in the picture.

Using 2 of the hex head 6-32 x 1/2machine screws to attach the upper spindle mount to
the Tool Backplate through the same holes. Tighten down the screws. The Spindle should
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now be firmly attached to the Tool Backplate.

7.3: Using the 4 hex

head 6-32 x 3/8
machine screws
provided, attach the
spindle assembly to
the Z Carriage as
shown below.

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Finally, align the holes in the edges of the Gantry Backbrace with the corresponding holes in
the GSU's. Attach the Gantry Backbrace using the 6 #4 x 3/4 screws provided. A power
screwdriver will be helpful for this step, though a manual screwdriver will also work well.

You should now have a fullyassembled Sprite Desktop CNC

Machine that looks like the following
picture.
NEXT STEPS:
Please refer to the Comprehensive
Plans & Manual eBook and the
Wiring and Electronics Instructions
to complete the wiring of your
electronics to your PC and your
Sprite Desktop CNC Machine. You'll
find both in the Support section of
our website. If you purchased our
USB Solution, please refer to the
FabCAM docs for operation.
For technical assistance please use
the tech support ticket form under
the Contacts section of our website.
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