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Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Report On Industrial Training


Sinha Knitting LTD.
COURSE NO : TEX-500 .
NAME OF THE STUDENT : MOSANNEF HOSSAIN BHUIYA
ROLL: 03.02.06.039

SUPERVISED BY :-

* PROF. DR. MD. MUSTAFIZUR RAHMAN.


HEAD, DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY.

* ABU SAYEED MD. ATIQUZZAMAN.


Asst. Prof., DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY.

4TH YEAR 2ND SEMESTER, SPRING 2007

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY


Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer)

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Industrial training is very much essential just after finishing the
theoretical course. It is a great opportunity to take the challenge of
doing something for a technologist. For this manner I am grateful to
all helping me to do this program. I am grateful to Almighty to give
this opportunity to learn practical knowledge.
Firstly, I am very much thankful to our head of the department Prof.
Dr. Md. Mustafizur Rahman for his encouragement and valuable
suggestions for constant improvement of the report. I would also like
to thank Prof. Dr. Md. Mahbubul Haque & Mr.Abu Sayeed Md.
Atiquzzaman for all necessary information delivery as well as for
help.
I would like to express my sincere gratitude & appreciation to
Sorwar Mohi Alam, Director (Technical),Sinha Textile Group.

Mr.

Finally I want to thank Mr. Joynul Abedin, Assistant Manager , Knit


Dyeing department for his enormous support as well as Manager &
Production Officers for helping to get proper information about every
section during industrial training.

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer)

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


INTRODUCTION:Textile technology education is based on industrial ground. Theoretical background is not
sufficient so, industrial training is an essential part of study to make a technologist technically
sound in this field. Industrial training provides us that opportunity to gather practical
knowledge.
Sinha Textile Group is a truly integrated undertaking. The textile division has the capability to
offer a complete product range for the export & domestic textile markets. The goal of the
textile division is to become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics & clothing
from Bangladesh. With high advanced technology & an emPhasis on developing local human
resources, the textile division has the potential to make an important contribution to the
nations growing ready made garments export sector.
The rational behind the existing structure & future expansion of the textile division is to
capture value added at each stage of the textile manufacturing process. Despite Bangladeshs
lack of indigenous cotton production capability, SKL has leveraged Bangladeshs labor cost
advantage & export competitiveness to maximum level.

GENERAL INFORMATION
NAME OF FACTORY: Sinha Knitting Ltd. (SKL).
OWNER OF THE MILL: Mr. Anisur Rahman Sinha.
LOCATION OF MILL: Kanchpur, Sonargaon, Narayanganj.
HEAD OFFICE:

House No. 363, road no: 02 New DOHS, Mohakhali, Dhaka-1206.

COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION: 1997.


BUSSINESS LINE: Manufacturing & Marketing of high quality
Knitted fabric.
TOTAL PRODUCTION: 9 to 10 ton per day.
VISION: Building a true marketing led enterprise with motivated workforce, innovative
vision, strong revenue based product portfolio, customer satisfaction & understand of global
market.
MISSION: Each of the activities must benefit & add value to the common wealth of our
society. We firmly believe that, in the final analysis we are accountable to each of the
constituents with whom we interact; namely our employees, our customers, our business
associates, our fellow, citizens & our shareholders.
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Mosannef hossain bhuiya

ORGANOGRAM OF SKL DYEING


OIC

Manager/D.G.M(Production)

Asset Manager Production

Administrative
Section (19)
1 X Admin officer
(Common with knitting
division)
1X computer operator(MIS)
4 X TK
13 X floor Cleaners/
sweeper

Asset Manager Production

Asset Manager Production

Maint(13)

LAB(12)

Store(18)

1 X Maint Officer
2 X SAE(Elec)
2 X SAE(Mech)
3 X Fitter
5 X Helper

1 X SPO
1 X PO
1 X APO(QC)
3 X ATO/ lab asst.
6 X Lab helper

1X store Offer
1X ASO (D&C)
1X SK. (D&C)
4X SK (Fabrics)
3X S.Helper(D&C)
8X S Helper (Del)

Batch Prep(15)
3 X Supervisor
12 X Helper

Dyeing(84)

A-shift(28)
2 PO
2 Sr.OP
15 M/c Operators
9 Helpers

B-shift(28)
2 PO
2 Sr.OP
15 M/c Operators
9 Helpers

Finishing(122)

QC Sec (33)
1XQC Incharge
3XQCO
10XQCI
19XHelper

Sample Sec(4)
1 X In Charge
3 X helper

C-shift(28)
2 PO
2 Sr.OP
15 M/c Operators
9 Helpers

A-shift(42)
1 PO
4 x APO(General-2)
9 x OP
28 Helpers

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer)

B-shift(40)
1 PO
2 x APO(General-2)
9 x OP
28 Helpers

C-shift(40)
1 PO
2 x APO(General-2)
9 x OP
28 Helpers

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

LAY OUT OF SKL:


SINHA KNITTING LIMITED
KANCHPUR, NARAYANGANJ
(DYEING DIVISION)

PLANT LAYOUT
Chemical
Chemical
Store
Store

S.D.B-2
S.D.B-2

Control Room
Control Room

Slitting
Slitting
M/C
M/C
5 KW
5 KW

Entry / exit

Padder
Padder
M/C
M/C
7 KW
7 KW

Finishing

Toilet
Toilet

S.D.B-1
S.D.B-1
M/C#
M/C#
01
01
17.5
17.5
KW
KW

Actual Load =

276.5 KW

Control Room
Control Room

M/C#
M/C#
02
02

M/C#
M/C#
03
7.503
7.5
KW
KW

5 KW
5 KW

Sampl
Sampl
e
e
5 KW
5 KW

Extracto
Extracto
r
r
M/C
M/C
15 KW
15 KW
M.D.B
S.D.B-3
M.D.B
S.D.B-3
GNS
GNS
7.5
7.5
KW
KW

M/C#
M/C#
04
5204
52
KW
KW

M/C#
M/C#
05
5205
52
KW
KW

Dyeing
Bangl
Bangl
a
a
M/C
M/C
5 KW
5 KW

Sampl
Sampl
e
e
5 KW
5 KW

M/C#
M/C#
12
12

M/C#
M/C#
11
11

M/C#
M/C#
10
10

M/C#
M/C#
09
09

M/C#
M/C#
08
08

M/C#
M/C#
07
07

M/C#
M/C#
06
06

17.5
17.5
KW
KW

17
17
KW
KW

10
10
KW
KW

10
10
KW
KW

7.5
7.5
KW
KW

15
15
KW
KW

53
53
KW
KW

Boiler Room
5.5 KW

SINHA KNITTING LIMITED


Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer)
Boiler Room
5.5 KW

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


KANCHPUR, NARAYANGANJ
(DYEING DIVISION)

SOUTH

LAYOUT OF FINISHING SECTION

NEW
NEWSTENTER
STENTER
133
133XX22
22

MDB
25

COLLAR
6 X 8
24
Delivery

30

Entry / Exit

30

71

Brushing
Brushing
M/C
M/C

19

TUBETEX COMP
TUBETEX
27 X 8 COMP
27 X 8

SLITTING
SLITTING
12
12XX13
13

22

13

TUBE
TUBE
CALENDER
CALENDER
16 X 14
16 X 14

OPEN
OPEN
COMPECTOR
COMPECTOR
57
57XX17
17

AREA : 182 X 72

PRODUCT VARIATION
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer)

16

20

BOILER
10x10

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Name of product mix :


The product , which are available in knit dyeing floor are given below :
Single jersey / Single jersey with lycra. .
Polo pique, Lacost ( Single / Double) .
Rib - ( 1x1), (2x2), (8x2), (9x2), (9x1) .
Lycra Rib , Drop needle fabric .
Interlock .
Grey mlange .
Stripe ( S/J, rib, interlock, grey mlange )

For cotton / Blend / CVC fabric : S/J without lycra Fabric G.S.M
110 - 120
120 - 130
130 - 140
140 - 150
150 - 160
170 - 210

Yarn Count
40 S 36 S
36 S - 32 S
32 S 28 S
28 S
26 S
24 S

Rib without lycra Fabric G.S.M


180 - 190
190 - 200
200 - 215
215 - 230
230 - 250
250 - 300

Yarn Count
36 S - 32 S
30 S
28 S
26 S
24 S
24 S

Interlock without lycra Fabric G.S.M


200 - 220
220 - 230
230 - 250
250 - 300

Yarn Count
34 S
32 S
30 S
26 S

Lacost ( S/L, D/L ) without lycra Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer)

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


Fabric G.S.M
180 - 190
190 - 210
210 - 230
230 250

Yarn Count
30 S
28 S
26 S
26 S

40D Lycra Rib Fabric G.S.M


230 - 240
240 - 250
250 - 280
280 - 300

Yarn Count
32 S
30 S
26 S
24 S

40D Lycra S/J Fabric G.S.M


180 - 190
190 - 210
210 - 220
220 240
240 - 250

Yarn Count
34 S
32 S
30 S
28 S
26 S

KNITTING
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer)

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Process flow chart of knitting:


Yarn in cone form
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and
tension devices
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
Inspection
Numbering

Raw materials for knitting:


Type of yarn

Count
20S ,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S ,40S,
45S
70D, 100D,150D
20D,40D, 70D
24S, 26S
24S, 26S, 28S
24S, 26S, 28S
24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

Cotton
Polyester
Spandex yarn
Grey Mlange (C-90% V-10%)
Ecru Mlange (C-85% V-15%)
Cotton Mlange (100%)
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton)
CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton)

Source of yarn for knitting:


Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer)

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Sinha rotor Spinning Ltd.


Arif textile
HK Spinning
Padma Textile
Prime Textile
Kader Synthetic
Shohagpur Textile
Jamuna Spinning
Shamim Spinning
Amber Textile
Yasmeen spinning
Square Textile

Lycra :
CREORA
Made in Korea
Type # H-100 (20D)
This fibre contains less than 1% di-methylacetamide( DMAC) which can be released during
processing.

FABRIC TYPES:
1) Single Jersey
a) Single jersey (Plain)
b) Single lacoste
c) Double lacoste
d) Polo pique
e) Fleece fabric
2) Double jersey
a) Rib fabric
i)
1x1 Rib
ii)
2x1 Rib
iii)
2x2 Rib
iv)
Lycra Rib
v)
Flat Back Rib
b) Interlock Fabric
i) Plain interlock
ii) Drop needle interlock

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Mosannef hossain bhuiya


3) Back Brush.
4) Collar and Cuff
i)
Plain Collar or Solid collar
ii)
Shaving Collar.
iii)
Jacquard Collar.
iv)
Tipping Collar.
v)
Race Collar.
vi)
Stripe Collar.
5) Different decorative single and double jersey fabric.

MACHINE DESCRIPTION:
Knitting division is divided into four sections
i)
Flat knitting section
ii)
Circular knitting section
iii)
Inspection section
iv)
Store section

i) Flat knitting Section:


Generally collar and cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section there are 51 flat
knitting machines of the same type. There specifications of the machines are given below:

No

M/C BRAND

M/C
ORIGIN

MODEL

M/C
DIA

GA
UGE

(IN
INCH)

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11

KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG

TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN

KH-313
KH-313
KH-313
KH-313
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J

54
54
54
54
40
40
40
40
40
40
40

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 11

14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14

TOTAL
NEEDL
E

740X2
740X2
740X2
740X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2

PRODUCTION
CAPACITY
IN COLLAR

IN CUFF

450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs

1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs

Run time
(HOURS)

24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40

KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
STOLL

41 STOLL
42 STOLL
43 STOLL
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51

JAMES
JAMES
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG
KAUOHENG

TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
GERMA
NY
GERMA
NY
GERMA
NY
GERMA
NY
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN

KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313J
KH-313
KH-313
KH-313
KH-313
KH-313
KH-313
CMT211

40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
40
84

14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14

560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
1180X2

450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
450 Pcs
300 Pcs
300 Pcs
300 Pcs
300 Pcs
300 Pcs
300 Pcs
800 Pcs

1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
1200Pcs
600Pcs
600Pcs
600Pcs
600Pcs
600Pcs
600Pcs
1600Pcs

24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24

CMT211

84

14

1180X2 800 Pcs

1600Pcs

24

CMS311

72

14

1180X2 600 Pcs

1200Pcs

24

CMS311

72

14

1180X2 600 Pcs

1200Pcs

24

LY-101
LY-101
KH323D
KH323D
KH323D
KH323D
KH323D
KH323D

40
40
60
60
60
60
60
60

14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14

560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2
560X2

600Pcs
600Pcs
1400Pcs
1400Pcs
1400Pcs
1400Pcs
1400Pcs
1400Pcs

24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24

ii) Circular knitting Section:


Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 12

300 Pcs
300 Pcs
750 Pcs
750 Pcs
750 Pcs
750 Pcs
750 Pcs
750 Pcs

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

This section contains 66 circular knitting machines of different types and made by different
manufacturers. In this section body fabrics for knitwears are produced. Specifications of the
machines are given below:
Type

M/C
No

Brand Name

Origin

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17

FUKAHAMA
ORIZIO
FUKAHAMA
FUKAHAMA
ORIZIO
MAYER
ORIZIO
FUKAHAMA
ORIZIO
ORIZIO
FUKAHAMA
MAYER
FUKAHAMA
ORIZIO
MAYER
MAYER
MAYER

TAIWAN
ITALY
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
ITALY
GERMANY
ITALY
TAIWAN
ITALY
ITALY
TAIWAN
GERMANY
TAIWAN
ITALY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY

Single jersey,
P.K,
Lacoste
With
Full Feeder
Lycra attachment.

Type

Rib
with
lycra

M/C
No

Brand Name

Origin

1
2
3
4
5
6
7

FUKAHAMA
ORIZIO
HUPTER
ORIZIO
HUPTER
HUPTER
FUKAHAMA

TAIWAN
ITALY
TAIWAN
ITALY
ITALY
ITALY
TAIWAN

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 13

Dia.
in
inch
20
20
21
22
22
23
24
24
25
26
26
28
30
30
32
34
36

Dia.
in
inch
18
30
30
30
34
36
36

Gauge

Quantity

24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
Gauge
16
16
18
20
18
18
18

1
1
1
2
2
2
4
1
2
3
2
2
4
2
2
2
2
Quantity
1
1
1
2
1
1
1

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


Type

M/C No

Brand Name

Origin

Rib &
Interlock

1
2
3
4

PAILUNG
PAILUNG
PAILUNG
PAILUNG

TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN

Type

Dia.
in
inch
30
32
34
36

M/C No

Brand Name

Origin

1
2
3
4
5

FUKAHAMA
FUKAHAMA
FUKAHAMA
FUKAHAMA
FUKAHAMA

TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN
TAIWAN

Type

M/C No

Brand Name

Origin

ENGG
-STRIPE

1
2

MAYER
ORIZIO

GERMANY
ITALY

Type

M/C No

Brand Name

Origin

POLAR
FLEECE

1
2

ORIZIO
HUPTER

ITALY
TAIWAN

Type

M/C No

Brand Name

Origin

JACQUARD

MAYER

GERMANY

INTERLOCK

3) Fabric inspection section:


Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 14

Gauge
20
20
20
20

Quantity
1
1
1
1

Dia.
in
inch
26
28
30
34
38

Gauge

Dia.
in
inch
30
30

Gauge

Dia.
in
inch
30
30

Gauge

Dia.
in
inch
30

Gauge

22
22
22
22
22

24
24

20
18

22

Quantity
1
2
2
1
1
Quantity
2
2
Quantity
4
2

Quantity
2

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

There is one machine in cloth inspection section. Specification of this machine is given
below:
Type
Country
Model No
Manufacturing date
Speed

Cloth Inspection Machine


China
YX-2400 A
2005
32 m/min

REMARKS:
Production runs with the help of mechanical fitters. For any kind of mechanical
fault of any machine the fix and work under technical in charge. Production officers take
account of daily production by running after the supervisor and workers so on.

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND OPERATIONS OF


KNITTING DIVISION
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Mosannef hossain bhuiya

PROCESS DEFINITION:
Knitting is the interlocking of one or more yarns through a series of loops. The
length wise columns of stitches, corresponding to the warp in woven cloth, are called
WALES; the cross wise rows of stitches, corresponding to the filling in woven cloth, are
called COURSES, FILLING KNITS (WEFT KNITS) are those fabrics in which the courses
are composed of a single strand of yarn, while warp knits are those in which the Wales are
composed of single strand of yarn. GAUGE corresponds to the yarn in a woven fabric, and is
defined as the number of needles of yarns in half inches of cloth. The higher the gauge, the
more compact and finer is the cloth.
DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PROCESS:
In every mill, there maintains a sequences in production processing. It is also followed in this
mill where we were in industrial attachment. The process sequences are in list below:
1) Firstly, knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as
accordance as consumer requirements then he informs or orders production
officer about it.
2) Production officer informs technical in charge and knows about machine in
which the production will be running.
3) Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take
decision about machine for production considering machine condition,
production capacity, maintenance complexity, etc.
4) Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch
length and grey GSM for required final GSM.
5) Supervisor checks daily production regularity and make operator conscious
about finishing tin due time.
6) Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the
fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabric fault, then he calls for the
mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs
technical in charge. Then he comes in spot.
7) After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they sent in
dyeing section.
PROCESS REQUIREMENTS:
We have already discussed there are basically three kinds of machine which is used to
produce knit fabric and these are:
1. Circular knitting machine (Single Jersey Machines).
2. Circular knitting machine (Double Jersey Machines).
3. Flat knitting machine.
PRODUCTION PARAMETERS:
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 16

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1. Machine Diameter;
2. Machine rpm (revolution per minute);
3. No. of feeds or feeders in use;
4. Machine Gauge;
5. Count of yarn;
6. Required time (M/C running time);
7. Machine running efficiency.
CONSIDERABLE POINTS TO PRODUCE KNIT FABRICS:
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and
quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as
follows- Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
- Finished G.S.M.
- Yarn count
- Types of yarn (combed or carded)
- Diameter of the fabric.
- Stitch length
- Color depth.
G.S.M.
It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter.
Point considered while setting grey GSM:
-

Enzyme level
Color
Suided or non- suided

Changing of GSM:
Major control by VDQ pulley.
Minor control by stitch length adjustment.
Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley
moves towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse
direction G.S.M will increase.
FACTORS THAT SHOULD BE CHANGED IN CASE OF FABRIC DESIGN ON
QUALITY CHANGE:

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a) Cam setting
b) Set of needle
c) Size of loop shape
EFFECT OF STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR DEPTH:
If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in
case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so
GSM is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively
smaller.
METHODS OF INCREASING PRODUCTION:
By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased
1. By increasing m/c speed:
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be
increased. But it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this
high speed.
2. By increasing the number of feeder:
If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number
of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
3. By using machine of higher gauge:
The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of
higher gauge production can be increased.
4. By imposing automation in the m/c:
a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system.
b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation.
c) PHoto electric fabric fault detector.
5. By imposing other developments:
a) Using creel-feeding system.
b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities
of yarn damage.
c) Using yarn feed control device.
.Production

calculation:

1. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:


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RPM No. of Feeder No. of Needle SL (mm) 60 12
10 2.54 36 840 2.2046 Yarn count
RPM No. of Feeder No. of Needle SL( mm)

3527.80 Yarn count

2. Production/shift in meter:
Course / min .
Course / cm
RPM No. of Feeder 60 12 Efficiency

Course / cm 100

3. Fabric width in meter:


Total no. of wales
Wales / cm 100
Total no. of Needles knitting

Wales / cm 100

QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM


OF KNITTING DIVISION:
INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM:

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After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly
by the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing. Quality assurance of knitted
grey fabric is described here.
SOME POINTS ARE NEEDED TO MAINTAIN FOR HIGH QUALITY FABRIC:
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)

Brought good quality yarn.


Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.
G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.
Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.
Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system.

LIST OF EQUIPMENT FOR QUALITY CONTROL:


The list of equipments to assure quality:1) Inspection m/c.
2) Electronic balance
3) GSM cutter.
4) Measuring tape.
5) Scissors.
6) Indication sticker.
QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE:
Body & rib inspection:
All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the
inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like
thick-thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubs etc
are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system.
Collar & cuff inspection:
Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor fault in
collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round
problem etc properly counted and recorded.

QUALITY STANDARD:
SKL maintains the ISO: 9001:2000 standards in case of quality. Therefore, the four point
system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given
against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four point grading
system followed by inspection at SKL
Four point grading system
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Size of defects
3 inches or less
Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch
Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch
Over 9 inch

Penalty
1 point
2 point
3 point
4 point

Relationship between knitting parameter:


1. Stitch length increase with the increase of GSM.
2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and WPI decrease.
3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease.
4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase.
5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and WPI increase.
6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
7. Grey GSM should be less than finish GSM.

Faults and their causes in knitting:


Hole mark:
Causes:
Buckling of the needle latch
Buckling the sinker
Higher G.S.M
Star mark:
Causes:
Buckling of the needle latch.
Yarn tension variation during production.
Low G.S.M.
Oil spot/Grease spot:
Causes:
Excess oil/Grease use.
Jamming of needle & sinker.
Patta:
Causes:
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Yarn comes from different lot.
Faulty cam use in the m/c.
Needle mark:
Causes:
Faulty needle use in the m/c.
Sinker mark:
Causes:
Faulty sinker use in the m/c
Fabric Shrinkage:
Causes:
Yarn twist.
Knitting tension.
Fabric G.S.M.

Twist
`

G.S.M.

Shrinkage
Shrinkage

GREY FABRIC INSPECTION


KNITTED FABRIC INSPECTION AND GRADING
BASED ON THE FORTY POINTS SYSTEM

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The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of Quality
Control in the grey or finished state, the grading of fabric is a difficult task, taking two
primary considerations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects.
The grading has two primary functions: First, to classify the fabrics according to
standard qualities based on the end-use and costumer demands and second, to supply
information as to the qualities actually being produced.
The Knitted fabric can be classified into three levels of quality, each one have a
number of points for defects as follows.
The First quality level

40 points per 100 Linear Yards.

The Second quality level

(40 80) points per 100 Linear Yards.

The Third quality level

80 points or more per 100 Linear Yards.

General Instructions for the final inspections: 1-

All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 Linear yards Mapping will
be done on each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per
one yard.

2-

All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account
of points made to insure proper grading.

3-

All fabric must meet specifications.

4-

At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide
whether the piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked, placed in lower
quality, or cut and upgraded for shipment. Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first
quality.

5-

The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and
check the lower quality.

6-

Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll or piece will be cut. All
defects of one yard length or more will be cut out of the piece. Defects within the first
2 inches or the last 2 inches of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading.

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 23

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7-

Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be
included in the grading of fabric.

8-

Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade.

9-

All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out.

10- Fabric up to 70 inches will be allowed a bow of not more than 1 inch and a Bias of not
more than 2 inches.
11- Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular
fabrics. All defects will be counted in tubular goods.
Grading procedure: 1. All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defect.
2. Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defect.
3. Surface defects 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per defect.
4. Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with 2 points per defect.
5. Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with one point per defect.
6. Running defects, such as tucks, needle lines, barre, crack marks, are judgment defects

Function or purpose of batch section:


-

To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
To perform the grey inspection.
Turn the grey fabric if require.
To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria
Order sheet (Received from buyer)
Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
M/C capacity
M/C available
Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PET, PC, CVC)
Other
To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
To keep records for every fabrics before dyeing.

Proper batching criteria:


- To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
- To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
- To keep the no of batch as less as possible for same shade.
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-

To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

Batch management:
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under
consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager.
Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.

M/Cs in batch section:


M/c no
Machine Name
Origin
Capacity

: 01
: Turning m/c
: Local
: 10 ton to 16 ton per day

DYEING
Sequence of operations for each product:Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 25

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For Cotton Knitted fabric Fabric receiving


Fabric inspection
Batching
Scouring & Bleaching
Dyeing
After treatment & Softening
Fixing
Dewatering/ Squeezing
Drying
Compacting
Final Inspection

Machine Description for Dyeing Section:


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M/c No: 01
Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: FONGS Model:-WINCH GN 18 2T (AtmosPheric)


: Hong kong
: 600 Kg
: 03
: 950 C
: .75 Bar
: 1996 Fongs

M/c No: 02
Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: FONGS Model:-WINCH DW 2T (AtmosPheric)


: Hong kong
: 300 Kg
: 02
: 950 C
: .75 Bar
: 1996 Fongs

M/c No: 03
Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year
M/c No: 04

: FONGS Model:-WINCH DW 3T (AtmosPheric)


: Hong kong
: 500 Kg
: 03
: 950 C
: .75 Bar
: 1996 Fongs

Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: Tecninox
: Portugal
: 1000 Kg
: 05
:1050 C
: 1.5 Bar
: 1997

M/c No: 05
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Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: Tecninox
: Portugal
: 1000 Kg
: 05
:1050 C
: 1.5 Bar
: 1997

M/c No: 06
Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: Tecninox
: Portugal
: 1200 Kg
: 05
:1050 C
: 1.5 Bar
: 1997

Dyeing M/c No: 07


Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: GATSON COUNTRY (high temperature high pressure)


: USA
: 500 Kg
: 02
:1400 C
:5 Bar
: 1996

Dyeing M/c No: 08


Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: FONGS Model:-WINCH DW 3T (AtmosPheric)


: Hong kong
: 500 Kg
: 03
: 950 C
: .75 Bar
: 1996 Fongs

Dyeing M/c No: 09


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Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: FONGS Model:-WINCH DW 3T (AtmosPheric)


: Hong kong
: 500 Kg
: 03
: 950 C
: .75 Bar
: 1996 Fongs

Dyeing M/c No: 10


Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: FONGS Model:-WINCH DW 3T (AtmosPheric)


: Hong kong
: 500 Kg
: 03
: 950 C
: .75 Bar
: 1996 Fongs

Dyeing M/c No: 11


Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: FONGS Model:-WINCH DW 3T (AtmosPheric)


: Hong kong
: 500 Kg
: 03
: 950 C
: .75 Bar
: 1996 Fongs

Dyeing M/c No: 12


Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: FONGS Model:-WINCH DW 3T (AtmosPheric)


: Hong kong
: 500 Kg
: 03
: 950 C
: .75 Bar
: 1996 Fongs

Dyeing M/c No: 13(sample)


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Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: tecninox(HTHP)
: portugal
: 15 Kg
: 01
: 1000 C
: .1.5 Bar
: 1996

Dyeing M/c No: 14(sample)


Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: tecninox(HTHP)
: portugal
: 15 Kg
: 01
: 1000 C
: .1.5 Bar
: 1996

Dyeing M/c No: 15(sample)


Brand Name
Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: FONGS Model:-Winch GNS 1 T


: Hong Kong
: 10 Kg
: 01
: 950 C
:0.75 Bar
: 1996

Dyeing M/c No: 16(Washing)


Origin
Capacity
No. of Nozzle
Max. Operating Temperature
Max. Operating Presser
Manufacturing Year

: local
: 15 Kg
: 02
: 850 C
:1
: 1998

Raw materials for dyeing:


Raw materials used in the dyeing section are:
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Mosannef hossain bhuiya


1. Grey fabrics
2. Dyes
3. Chemicals.

Grey fabrics:
Following types of gray fabrics are dyed:
Single jersey

Single jersey with lycra

Polo pique

Single laquest

Fleece

Interlock

Interlock with lycra

Rib

Rib with lycra

Different types of collar & cuff

Dyes:
No
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20

Dyes name
Kemifix Red XF-3B
Kemifix Yellow XF-RL
Kemifix Red XF-6B
Kemifix Yellow XF-4G
Kemifix Blue XF-2R
Kemifix Orange XF-2RL
Kemifix BLACK GR
Kemifix TURQ. Blue-G
Remazol Yellow RR
Remazol Red RR
Remazol Blue RR
Remazol Br Blue RR
(SPL)
Remazol Blue RGB
Remazol T/Blue G
Remazol Navy RGB
Remazol Red 3BS
Drimarin Yellow CL-2R
Drimarin Red HF2B
Drimrin Blue CL-2RL
Drimarin Navy CL-GN

Type
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye

Source
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A

Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye

Dyestar
Dyestar
Dyestar
Dyestar
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 31

Dyestar
Dyestar
Dyestar
Dyestar

Origin
India
India
India
India
India
India
India
India
Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53

Drimarin Red CL5B


Drimarin Navy CLBN
Drimarin Orange CL3R
Drimarin Yellow CL3GL
Drima. Turquis Blue
CLB
Drima. Turquis Blue
K2B
Imcozin Black VB
Imcozin Red 3BF
Imcozin Yellow E3R
Imcozin Blue V3R
Imcozin T. Blue VG
Imcozin Br. Orange V3R
Ciba Yellow FN2R
Ciba Red FB
Ciba Blue FNR
Ciba Navy Blue NFB
Ciba Red FN3F
Ciba Yellow F4G
Levafix Blue CA
Levafix Rubine CA
Levafix Amber CA
Terasil Yellow W4G
Terasil G. Yellow W3R
Terasil Navy WRS
Terasil Red W4BS
Terasil Blue WBLS
Terasil Black WNS
Terasil Black BFE
Taicon Yellow HW-T
Taicon Brown XF-T
Taicon Crimson XF-T
Taicon Red XF-T
Taicon Navy Blue HWT

Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye

Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant

Reactive Dye

Clariant

Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse

Impo color
Impo color
Impo color
Impo color
Impo color
Impo color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Dyestar
Dyestar
Dyestar
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color

Chemicals:
Detergent:
1. Jet
2. ladiquest 1097

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 32

Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany
Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland
Germany
Germany
Germany
Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


3. NSR
Levelling Agent:
1. ladiquest 1097
Sequestering Agent:
2. EMG
3. Heptol EMP
Anticreasing Agent:
1. Drivol PAMN
2. Biovine-109
Stabilizer:
1. Lanapex HPXT
2. STZM
Anti-foam:
1. Antimussol-HTS
Per-oxide Killer
1. OEM (oxygyme)
Enzyme:
1. Bio-polish AOL
Softener:
1. PBD (colour)
2. Tubiyal-1112 (white)
Dispersing Agent:
1. Palagel SFD
Buffering Agent:
1. Eulysin S
Reducing Agent:
1. Hydrose
Acid:
1. Acetic Acid
2. Hydrochloric Acid
Salt:
1. Gluber Salt
2. Common Salt
Fixing Agent:
1. Soda Ash

Alkali:
1. Caustic soda
2. Soda ash
Bleaching Agent:

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1. Hydrogen per oxide
Brightner:
1. Uvitex BHV(for cotton fabric)
2. Uvitex EBF (For polyester fabric)
3. Bluton BBV(For polyester fabric)
Bioscouring Agent:
1. Scorgyme
Dyeing Parameter:
A. PH Check during Wet Processing:
-

Bleaching bath Ph
Neutralization / After bleaching Ph
Initial dye bath Ph
After salt addition Ph
After alkali addition Ph
After dyeing Ph
Fixation bath Ph
Softener bath Ph

: 10.5 - 11
: 5.5 6.5
: 5.5 6.5
: 6.5 7.5
: 10.5 11.2
: 5.0 6.0
: 4.5 5.5
: 4.0 -5.0 ( for color)
: 5.5 6.0 (for white)

B. Fixation Time:
-

For light shade


For medium shade
For deep shade

: 30 40 min
: 45 50 min
: 50 60 min

C. M: L ratio
: 1:6 1:9
D. The amount of Glaubers salt and Soda ash on the basic shade percentage:
Shade %
0.0010 - 0.2
0.2 - 1
1 2.5
2.5 - 4
4-8
Above 8
For some spacific color:
Name
Mixed alkali
Glaubers salt (g/l)
Soda ash
Caustic soda

Glaubers salt
20 g/l
40
60
70
80
100

Soda ash
5 g/l
10
15
20
20
20

Red 4%

Navy 4%

Black 4%

80
5
1

80
5
1

100
5
1

E. Fixation is done for medium and deep shade


F. Reduction clearing is done for medium and deep shade in case of PET/CO dyeing.

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Wet processing recipes:


Pre treatment bio-scouring
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30

Action
Fabric load & Stitching
Water load
Runtime
Drain
Desired water loading M:L = 1:12
Temperature Raising
Anti-creasing
Sequestering
making alkaline medium
Applying wetting Agent
Applying bio-scouring agent
Temperature Raising
Runtime
chemical addition
chemical addition
Temperature Raising
Detergency
Cooling to 70c
Hot Rinsing
Temperature Raising to 90c
Hot wash
Cooling to 70c
Hot Rinsing
Drain
Desired water loading M:L = 1:12
Temperature Raising
Acid Addition
Runtime
Clod Rinsing
Drain

Chemicals

Quantity(g/L)

Biovine-109
EMG
Soda Ash
Jet
Scourgyme

0.3
0.3
0.4
0.3
0.8

Jet
Ladquest-1097

Acetic Acid

0.8
0.5

0.4

Temp. (c)
RT
RT
RT
RT
RT
RT to 50
50
50
50
50
50
50 to 55
55
55
55
55 to 80
80
80 to 70
70
80 to 90
90
90 to 70
70 to 60
60
45
45 to 65
45 to 65
65
5 to RT
RT

Time-temperature diagram for bio-scouring/ half bleaching


Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 35

Time (Minute)
30
3
10
3
5
5
10
2
1
1
20
1
5
20
10
5
7
20
20
5
2
5
0.5
0.5
10
5
2

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Pre treatment Full scouring

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38

Action
Fabric load & Stitching
Water load
Runtime
Drain
Desired water loading M:L = 1:12
Temperature Raising
Anti-creasing
Temperature Raising
Sequestering
Applying wetting Agent
cooling to 50
Detergent applying
Scouring Agent Applying
Stabilizing Agent applying
Oxidizing Agent applying
Temperature Raising
Scouring & Bleaching action
Cooling to 70c
Hot Rinsing
Drain
Desired water loading M:L = 1:12
Temperature Raising to 90c
Hot wash
Cooling to 70c
Hot Rinsing
Drain
Desired water loading M:L = 1:12
Temperature Raising
Detergency Agent applying
Cooling to 70c
Hot Rinsing
Drain
Desired water loading M:L = 1:12
Acid Addition
Acid treating
Per-oxide killer Applying
Hot Rinsing
Drain

Chemicals

Quantity(g/L)

Biovine-109

0.3

EMG
Jet

0.3
0.7

Ladquest1097
Caustic Soda
STZM
H2O2

1
3
0.3
2.5

Jet

0.5

Acetic Acid

0.4

OEM
(Oxygyme)

0.5

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 36

Temp. (c)
RT
RT
RT
RT
RT
RT to 50
50
50 to 70
70
70
70 to 50

Time
(Minute)
30
3
10
3
5
5
10
5
15
20

50
50
50
50
50 to 95
95
95 to 70
70 to 60
60
45
45 to 90
90
90 to 70
70
60
45
70 to 90
90
90 to 70
70
70
45
45 to 65
60

12
65
25
5
2
5
10
20
20
5
2
5
4
15
20
5
2
5
4
20

55
60
60
Total Time

20
5
2
385

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

For White Fabric


1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28

Action
Fabric load & Stitching
Water load
Runtime
Drain
Desired water loading M:L = 1:12
Temperature Raising
Anti-creasing
Temperature Raising
Sequestering
Applying wetting Agent
cooling to 50
Detergent applying
Scouring Agent Applying
Stabilizing Agent applying
Oxidizing Agent applying
Temperature Raising
Scouring & Bleaching action
Cooling to 70c
Hot Rinsing
Drain
Desired water loading M:L = 1:12
Optical brightening agent
Applying
Hot Rinsing
Drain
Desired water loading M:L = 1:12
Temperature Raising to 90c
Hot wash
Cooling to 70c

Chemicals

Quantity(g/L)

Biovine-109

0.3

EMG
Jet

0.3
0.7

Ladquest-1097
Caustic Soda
STZM
H2O2

1
3
0.8
5 or 7

OBBHT
(Taiwan)

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 37

0.5% to 1%

Temp.
(c)
RT
RT
RT
RT
RT
RT to 50
50
50 to 70
70
70
70 to 50
50
50
50
50
50 to 110
110
95 to 70
70 to 60
60
45

Time
(Minutes)
30
3
10
3
5
5
10
5

60
60
60
45
45 to 90
90
90 to 70

30
5
2
5
10
20
20

15
20
1
14
45
25
5
2
5

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42

Hot Rinsing
Drain
Desired water loading M:L = 1:12
Temperature Raising
Detergency Agent applying
Cooling to 70c
Hot Rinsing
Drain
Desired water loading M:L = 1:12
Acid Addition
Acid treating
Per-oxide killer Applying
Hot Rinsing
Drain

Jet

0.5

Acetic Acid

0.4

OEM
(Oxygyme)

0.5

70
60
45
70 to 90
90
90 to 70
70
70
45
45 to 65
60

5
2
5
4
15
20
5
2
5
4
20

55
60
60
Total
Time

20
5
2
409

Time temperature diagram


BIO POLISH
After bleaching if bio polish is recommended then Acids Ph is checked, as if it must be in
between 4 to 4.5. The recipe is provided below:
1
2

Action
Bio polishing
Checking hairiness

Chemicals
Bio polish AOL

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 38

Quantity(g/L)
1

Temp. (c)
45

Time
(Minute)
60
30

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


3
4

Rinsing
Drain

45

5
2

Dyeing recipes for dark shades


For dark shades after bio scouring, following recipe is applied

4
5

Action
Rinsing
Desired Water
Anti creasing
Wetting & leveling agent
applying
Sequestering

6
7
8

Salt
Run time for salt
Dyes addition

9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29

Temp. Increase
dyeing runtime
Soda addition
soda runtime
Fixation & shade matching
Hot rinsing
Drain
Desired Water
temperature raising to 60c
soaping
Shade matching
Cooling to 70c
Hot rinsing
cold rinsing
Drain
Desired Water
temperature raising to 60c
Neutralizing
Hot rinsing
cold rinsing
Drain

1
2
3

Time
(Minute)
10
5

Chemicals

Quantity(g/L)

Biovine-109
ladiquest1097
EMG
common
Salt

Temp. (c)
RT
RT
RT

1
0.5

RT
RT

10

80

RT

Dyes

X%

RT
RT to 60 (3c /
min)
60
60
60
60 to 80
70
70
45
45 to 60
70 to 95
95
95 to 70
70
RT
RT
RT
RT to 60
60
60
RT
RT
Total time

10
10
2

Soda ash

15

NSR

Acetic Acid

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 39

10
20
10
20
45
5
2
10
10
20
10
15
10
5
2
5
5
15
10
5
2
283

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Time-temperature diagram

For light /critical shade:


First of all full scouring and bleaching has done then it is followed by the methods below,
c
1
2
3
4
5
8

Action
Rinsing
Desired Water
Anti creasing
Wetting & leveling agent
applying
Sequestering
Dyes addition

9
10

Temp. Increase
dyeing runtime

6
7

Salt
Run time for salt

8
9
12

Migration Dyeing
Cooling to 45c
Soda addition

Chemicals

Quantity(g/L)

Biovine-109
ladiquest1097
EMG
Dyes

common
Salt

Soda ash

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 40

1
0.5
X%

30

Temp. (c)
RT
RT
RT

Time
(Minute)
10
5

RT
RT
RT
RT to 60 (1c /
min)
60

10

60
60
60 to 85 (1c /
min)
85 to 45
45

10
10

2
30
10

35
40
10

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
27
28
29

soda runtime
Fixation & shade matching
Hot rinsing
Drain
Desired Water
temperature raising to 60c
Neutralizing
Hot rinsing
cold rinsing
Drain
Desired Water
soaping
Shade matching
Hot rinsing
cold rinsing
Drain

Acetic Acid

jet

45 to 60
60 to 80
70
70
45
45 to 60
60
60
RT
RT
45
60 to 80
80
70
RT
RT

20
65
5
2
10
10
15
10
5
2
10
20
10
10
5
2

Total time

373

Time-temperature diagram for light shade

Softening Methods:
1
2
3
4
5

Action
Desired Water
For acidic medium
Softening
Drain
Fabric un loading

Chemicals

Quantity(g/L)

Acetic acid
PBD

0.2
1

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 41

Temp. (c)
RT
RT
RT
RT
RT

Time
(Minute)
5
3
10
2
15

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Polyester-Cotton Blend Dyeing process:


Shade Navy
Fabric Quality Flat Knit
Finish GSM 210

Buyer: zara
Grey GSM 190
M: L 1: 8

Polyester part dyeing:


Dyeing Program: Polyester Light 135 process.

Dyeing Recipe:
Pretreatment
Detergent JET
Sequestering Agant EMG
Anti-creaser biovine-109
Stabilizer STZM
Antifoam Antimussol HTS
Alkali Causti Soda
Bleaching Agent H2O2

: 1 g/l
: 1 g/l
: 2.5 g/l
: 0.3 g/l
: 0.2 g/l
: 2 g/l
: 3 g/l

Neutralization:
Acid Acetic Acid
Soaping:
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 42

: 1 g/l

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


Soaping Agent JET

: 0.7.5 g/l

Dyeing:
Dispersing Agent Satanal WS
Buffer Etasan S

: 1 g/l
: 1.5 g/l

Taicon Yellow HWT


Taicon Crimson XTF
Taicon Navy Blue HWT

: 0.114 %
: 0.093 %
: 1.728 %

Reduction Clearing:
Caustic Soda
Hydrose -

: 2 g/l
: 2 g/l

Neutralization:
Acid Acetic Acid

: 1 g/l

Soaping:
Soaping Agent JET

: 0.7.5 g/l

Cotton Part Dyeing:


Dyeing Program: 02; Cotton Dk Isothermal Process:
Pretreatment:
Detergent Sandaclean PCLF

: 1 g/l

Neutralization:
Acid Acetic Acid
Dyeing:

: 1 g/l

Sequestering Agant LadiQuest 1097


Anti-creaser Drivol PAM-N
Levelling Agent Drimagen E2R
Antifoam Antimussol HTS

: 2 g/l

Remazol Yellow RGB


Remazol Red RGB
Kemifix Navy SPW

: 2 g/l
: 2 g/l
: 0.2 g/l
: 0.88 %
: 0.929 %
: 2.04 %

Electrolyte Gluber Salt


Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 43

: 80 g/l

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


Alkali Soda ash
Caustic Soda

: 5 g/l
: 1 g/l

Neutralization:
Acid Acetic Acid

: 1 g/l

Soaping:
Soaping Agent Dekol SN

: 0.7.5 g/l

Fixing:
Acid Acetic Acid
Fixing Cyclonol ERL

: 0.3 g/l
: 0.75 g/l

Softner:
Acid Acetic Acid
Cationic softner Cerenine KWL
Cationic softner Basosft F- Euk

: 0.45 g/l
: 1.25 g/l
: 0.75 g/l

Common faults in knit dyeing


Fabric faults creating during dyeing:
Crack, rope & crease marks:

Causes:
Poor opening of the fabric rope
Shock cooling of synthetic material
Incorrect process procedure
Higher fabric speed

Remedies:
Pre-Heat setting
Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
Reducing the m/c load
Higher liquor ratio
Running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 44

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Fabric distortion and increase in width:


Causes:
Too high material speed
Low liquor ratio

Remedies:
By decreasing both nozzle pressure & winch speed

Pilling:
Causes:
Too high mechanical stress on the surface of

the fabric

Excess speed during processing


Excess foam formation in the dye bath

Remedies:
By using of a suitable

chemical lubricant

By using antifoaming agent


By turn reversing the Fabric

before dyeing

problem:
a. Ballooning:

Causes:
Seam joining with too densely sewn

Remedies:

By cutting a vertical slit of 10-15 cm in length for escaping the air.

b. Intensive foaming:

Causes:
Pumping a mixture of air and water

Running

Remedies:
By using antifoaming agent

Dyeing faults & their remedies:


Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 45

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Uneven dyeing:
Causes:

Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring, bleaching & mercerizing)


Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres
Quick addition of dyes and chemicals
Lack of control of dyeing m/c

Remedies:
By ensuring even pretreatment
By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres
By slow addition of dyes and chemicals
Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
Shade variation (Batch to batch): Batch to batch shade variation is
common in exhaust dyeing which is not completely avoidable. Even though, to
ensure a consistent batch to batch production of shade the following matters
should be controlled carefully Use standard dyes and chemicals
Maintain the same liquor ratio
Follow the standard pretreatment procedure
Maintain the same dyeing cycle
Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of
the shade
Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same
time and temperature in the process.
The Ph, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should
check daily.

Dye spot:
Causes:
Improper mixing of dyestuff in the solution, in right amount of water, at
the temperature.

Remedies:
We should pass the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel
mesh strainer when adding it to the chemical tank, so that the large undissolved particles are removed.

Patchy dyeing:
Causes:
Uneven heat in the machine.
Improper impregnation of dye liquor due to the low wetting property of
the fabric.
Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.

Remedies:
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 46

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


By proper pretreatment.
By adding extra wetting agent.
Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.

Specky dyeing:
Causes:
Excessive foam in the dye bath.
Fall of water droplets on fabric surface before or after dyeing.
In sufficient after treatment.

Remedies:
By using antifoaming agent.
Sufficient after treatment.
By using a good wetting agent in the dye bath.

Dyeing machine shortdescription

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 47

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

FINISHING
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 48

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Machine Description for Finishing Section:


Finishing section is consisting of two lines. They are
A. Tube line
B. Open line
A. The machine that are used for open line are given bellow
-

Slitting and Dewatering machine


Stenter machine
Compector machine

B. The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow .
-

Dewatering machine
Dryer
Compector machine

Tube Line:
Machine no: 01
Machine name
Brand name
Origin
Speed

: Dewatering machine
: SHANKU HYDRO EXTRACTOR
: TAIWAN
: 400- 600 rpm

Machine name: 02
Machine name
Brand name
Origin
Speed
Conveyor belt speed
Over feed

: Dryer machine
: Kiefer dryer machine
: Germany
: 6 40 m/min
: 30 m/min
: 2 -20 % as required

Machine name: 03
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 49

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


Machine name
Brand name
Origin
Speed
Over feed
Temperature

: Compactor machine
: Tubetex
: USA
: 15 30 m/min
: 2 - 8 % m/min
: 100 1500C

Open line
Machine no: 01
Machine name
Brand name
Origin
Speed
Over feed

: Slitting & Dewatering machine


: Bianco Slitting machine
: Italy
: 30 80 m/min
: 0 -10 % as required

Machine no: 02
Machine name
Brand name
Origin
Speed
Over feed
Burner (Gas)
Blower
Temperature range
GSM Control
Manufacturing Year

: Stenter machine
: Brockner Stenter machine
: Germany
: 5 - 30 m/min
: 2 -10 % as required
: 4*2
: 4*2
: 100 - 2200C
: By over feed
: 1996

Machine no: 03
Machine name
Brand name
Origin
Speed
Over feed
Burner (Gas)
Blower
Temperature range
GSM Control
Padder roller
Padder Presser range
Manufacturing Year

: Stenter machine
: Brockner Stenter machine
: Germany
: 5 - 30 m/min
: 2 -10 % as required
: 5*2
: 5*2
: 100 - 2200C
: By over feed
: Single
: 3 - 7 bar
: 1996

Machine no: 04
Machine name
: Open Compactor machine
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 50

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


Brand name
Origin
Speed
Over feed
Temperature range

: Tubetex
: USA
: 15 - 20 m/min
: 4.5 - 6.5 % as required
: 100 - 1200C

Other M/C in finishing section:


Machine name
Brand name
Origin
Brush Speed
Brush roller
Drum speed

: Suiding machine
: Marino Crosta
: Italy
: 850 1200 r.p.m
: 06 (Pile roller -3, counter Pile roller 03)
: 65 120 r.p.m

QUALTY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT


Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 51

Mosannef hossain bhuiya


The Quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the
material in process and various stages of its manufacturing.
OBJECTS OF QUALITY CONTROL:

Research or analysis.
Selection of raw materials.
Process control and development.
Product testing.
Specification test.
Should be given economic requirements.
Quality assurance and so on.

The way to bulk production :


In this topic we are going to discuss about the role & responsibilities of testing
laboratory from where it is possible to get a direction of doing bulk production of dyed fabric.
Here, we tried to present the way by which standard samples are being brought in the factories
& principle work done with the sample before bulk production of it.
Firstly, when a buyer goes to a factory with an order, he/she gives a standard sample of
fabric or mentions on the book which represents the demand of the buyer.
The type of fabric, the color of fabric everything include to their demand. This is the object of
an industry to produce the product with complete satisfaction of buyers.
The laboratory dyeing techniques & procedure are given below
LABORATORY WORK
1.

Development of lab dip

2.

Physical test

3.

Chemical test

4.

Purity test (dyes and chemicals)

Development of lab dip:


Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 52

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Receiving standard swatch


Spectrophotometer reading
Recipe start up software
Start up recipe given
Manual dispersion (pipatting)
Pot dyeing
Unload
Normal wash
Acid wash
Hot wash
Cold Rinsing
Drying

4. Purity test
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 53

Auto dispersion machine

Pot dyeing
Unload
Normal wash
Acid wash
Hot wash
Cold Rinsing
Drying

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Purity tests of dyes and chemicals are not done in the lab because of the good will of the
supplier. But still for dyes, especially newly introduced dyes, the sample is dyed with the new
one and then compared with previous samples by visual observation and then they check new
samples absorbency, strength, and fastness.
Colour measurement of standard samples :Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as perfectly
as possible. Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard one is compulsory.
Color measurement can be done by two methods
Color measurement
Manual method

Instrumental method

In manual method, the std. samples color is measured by comparing it with previously
produced samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample with which the
color of the std. matched, that samples color recipe is being taken for shade matching .This
methods accuracy completely depends on the vision of the person related to it but person
must be needed gather experience about color matching.
The instrumental method is more reliable if it is operated accurately to do the work of color
measurement. Spectrophotometer interfaced with a PC is used for shade matching .This
instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of light at different wave
length. When the standard sample is being subjected under spectrophotometer, then the
instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic colors within the tolerance limit of
color difference. In this way, color measurement of the standard sample is carried out for the
purpose of shade matching.
PREPARATION AND STORAGE OF STOCK DYES AND CHEMICALS:
Preparation of Concentration of stock dye soln Normally 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5% and 2% stock solution of dyes are
prepared in beakers for daily used.
Preparation of Concentration of stock chemical soln Similarly 25% salt and 25% soda stock solutions are prepared in beakers

for daily use.

DYES AND CHEMICALS MEASURING FORMULA FOR LABORATORY:


Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 54

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow Fabric weight x Shade %
Amount of dye soln (ml) = ------------------------------------------Concentration of stock dye soln %

Example
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5gm
Shade % = 2%
[If used 0. 5 % stock soln of dyes ] then ,
5X2
--------0. 5

Amount of dye sol (ml) =

= 20ml .

The amount of chemical soln (ml) is measured as follow -

Amount of chemical soln (ml) =

Fabric wt. * M : L * g/l


-------------------------------------1000 * Conc. of stock soln %

Example
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5 gm
Salt
= 20 g/l
M: L = 10
[ if taken 25 % stock soln of salt ] then ,
5 x 10 x 20
Amount of chemical soln (ml) = --------------------- = 4 ml
1000 x 0.25
QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM:
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 55

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Q.C
On-Line

Off-Line

Off-line Tests:
All the Off-line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows,
1) Physical test
a.
b.
c.
d.

GSM
Spirality test
Shrinkage test
Pilling test

2) Chemical test or Color fastness test


a.
b.
c.
d.
e.

Fastness to perspiration.
Fastness to light and perspiration.
Fastness to rubbing and crocking.
Fastness to wash.
Fastness to light.

On-Line Tests:
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 56

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

1) For Pretreatment -

pH test.
Absorbency test.
Fabric width measure.
Whiteness test.
Water quality test.

2) For Dyeing -

Shade matching check.


pH check.
Wash fastness Check.
GSM checking

3) Machine checking.
QUALITY STANDARD:
In SKL is mainly followed AATCC, Oeko-Tex Standard and ISO methods. Selection of the
method depends on the buyer requirements. Most of the American buyers prefer AATCC and
Oeko-Tex method. For the European buyers ISO method is followed.
SKL, is certified by Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and ISO 9001:2000
Shortly described about Oeko-Tex stdandard 100:
Oeko-Tex std. 100 certificates are designed by the International Association for Research &
Testing considering the consumer safety & environment protection for the purchase of
textiles. This certificate ensures Confidence in Textiles - tested for harmful substances &
show to the consumer that goods bought by them are free from any hazards to health such as ,
f. Formaldehyde.
g. Toxic pesticides.
h. Penta Chloro Phenol.
i. Heavy metal traces.
j. Azo dyes which release carcinogenic amines.
k. Halogen carriers.
l. Chlorine bleaching.
m. PH of the aqueous extract.
Oeko-Tex std. 100 from ecological point on textile substrates (Yarn, Fabric, garments etc.)
marked by textile manufacturers. This does not depend solely on the dyestuffs. It also depends
on the processing conditions, various chemicals & other auxiliaries used in the manufacture of
such a substrate.
So, Oeko-Tex std. 100 is not a quality label, it is just only ensures the safety of the textile
goods and eco-labeled.
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 57

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

These products tested in foreign countries and it is done by the buyers.


SCOPE OF QUALITY CONTROL AND TESTING:
The scope of quality control testing in SKL LTD. is good. It has the following ability for
quality control & testing,
1.
ICI pilling tester.
2.
Perspiration tester.
3.
Spectroflash.
4.
Data color dispenser.
5.
Data color mixture station.
6.
Data color solution maker.
7. Washing machine.
8.
Dryer.
9.
Smart dyer.
10. Smart dryer.
11. Rota wash.
12. Padding mangle.
13. Observer

Machine name
Machine function

:
:

Origin
Model
Manufacturer
Manufacturing year

:
:
:
:

ICI Pilling Tester


Measurement of fabric surface
Deterioration
England
M227A
SDL ATLAS
2005

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 58

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ICI Pilling Tester


1. Remove any fibres or fluff from the empty boxes of the test machine by light brushing,
vacuum cleaning or using a compressed air gun and inspect the cork linings for wear or
damage.
2. Turn on the mains switch on the machine. Before testing switch off the test switch to stop
all motion of the boxes. Place four mounted specimens into each box and close the lids
securely.
3. Set the machine to run for the required number or revolutions. This number of revolutions
must be agreed by the buyer.
4. Select the number of revolutions using the blue prog key on the counter located on the
front of the instrument. Using the small grey buttons increase the figure shown on the
display until the required number is shown. Press the small red button on the counter face
to set. The pre-set number of revolutions will be displayed on the LED display. When
testing commences the LED will count up to the pre-set number. The machine will then
stop. If the same number of cycles is needed for the next test, simply press the small red
button on the counter to reset. If not, follow the above procedure to change the pre-set
count.
5. Care should be taken when the boxes are rotating to avoid injury to personnel.
6. The red emergency stop button can be pressed at any time to stop the test. The test can
then be resumed from where it left off by pressing the start button.
7. After the set number of revolutions, the machine will automatically stop. Remove the
tubes from the machine. To remove the specimens from the tubes carefully remove the
samples using a small pair of scissors.
8. When removing the specimen from the tube, special care must be taken not to damage the
tubes.
9. The sample fabric is then rated with the bobbin taster scale according to the procedure
written previously.

Machine name
: Perspiration Tester
Machine function
: Fastness to perspiration.
Origin
: UK
Manufacturer
: SDL ATLAS
Manufacturing year : 2004

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Perspiration tester
To test color fastness to perspiration, specimens (fabric, yarn or fiber) in contact with multi
fiber fabric are treated in two different solutions. One solution is acid and one solution is
alkaline. Then the sample is put in a beaker and placed inside the machine at temperature of
37 degree Celsius for 48 hours. Then the sample fabric is rated using the grey scale.
Solutions should be made up immediately prior to use as the chemicals can degrade over time.
Alkaline solution (makes 1 Litre)
1.1 g of l-histidine-mono-hydrochloride monohydrate
(C6H9O2N3.HCl.H2O)
And
1.1 g of disodium hydrogen-Ortho-Phosphate dihydrate
(Na2HPO4.2H2O)
The solution is brought to Ph 8.0 with 0.1 mol sodium hydroxide solution.

Acid solution (makes 1 Litre)


2.5 g of l-histidine-mono-hydrochloride monohydrate
(C6H9O2N3.HCl.H2O)
And
2.2 g of sodium dihydrogen-Ortho-Phosphate dihydrate
(NaH2PO4.2H2O)
The solution is brought to pH 5.5 with 0.1 mol sodium hydroxide solution.

Machine name
Machine function
Model

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 60

: Spectro Photometer

: Data Color
: SF 600X

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Spectro Photometer
SpectroPhotometry involves the use of a spectroPhotometer. A spectroPhotometer is a
Photometer (a device for measuring light intensity) that can measure intensity as a function of
the color, or more specifically, the wavelength of light.
For automatic color matching there are two software that are used,
1. Color tools.
2. DCI match.
In DCI color match the machine is first calibrated by a white and a color tiles. Then here the
color is selected or retrieved. For having the percentage of different colors for the selected
shades these soft wares are used.
After dyeing the sample with the sample dyeing machine the specimen is putted again into the
spectro-Photometer for the assessment of the shade.
The software then gives a clear of the shade. If the shade does not match then it shows the
reason also for taking further step.

Brand name
:
Machine function :
Origin
:
Model
:
Manufacturer
:
Manufacturing year :

Data Color Auto Dispensing


Color dispersion
Taiwan
Auto lab TF-40
Logic Art
2005

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Auto Dispensing Machine

Stock Solution Platform

In this machine color is mixed automatically with the help of computer. There are 40 bottles
for color mixing and automatic pipetting. The percentage of color and chemicals are given
into the computer and then it is automatically mixed. This machine helps to consume time and
labor.

Brand name
Machine function
Origin
Model
Manufacturer
Manufacturing year

: Data Color Mixture Station.

:
:
:
:
:

Mixture Making
Taiwan
Auto lab SPS
Logic Art
2005

Data Color Mixture Station.


This machine is used for making mixture. Solutions are taken into a beaker and then putted
on the machine. The mixing is done with the help of two magnets and one of the magnets is
Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 62

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electric magnet. In this machine six beakers can be placed at a time. It saves time and
manpower with an
Efficiency of 100%.

Brand name
: Data Color Solution Maker
Machine function
: Making Solution.
Origin
: Taiwan
Model
: Auto lab SPS
Manufacturer
:
Logic Art
Manufacturing year :
2005

Nozzle
Solution Maker
With the help of this machine it is possible to make solution with a very less time and
accuracy. There are two water tanks on the top which can supply hot and cold water according
to the program through the nozzles. Required amount of chemicals are first taken into the
beaker and then it is placed on the silver plate just under the nozzles. Hot or cold water is
mixed through the nozzles and the solution is mixture with the help of magnets.

Machine name
Machine function
Origin
Model
Manufacturer

: Washing Machine

: Shrinkage Test
: Italy
: KM-150-WD
: Kelvinator

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Washing machines
These are very basic washing machines used in house hold activities. For the shrinkage test
these are used.
For shrinkage and spirallity test, two sample fabrics of 60 inches length and width are taken.
These two samples are then seamed together and in one side two lines are drawn in both the
directions at a distance of 50 inches each.
Seam line
50 inch

It is then taken into the washing machine and at temperature of 60 degree it is washed. After
that the measurements of the lines and seam movement is taken again.
Seam movement
47 inch

The line distance is reduced to 47 inches.


(50-47) X 100
Shrinkage percentage is =

%=6%
50

Machine name
:
Dryer
The acceptable range for shrinkage test is 5%

Machine function : Drying


Origin
: Taiwan
Mosannef hossain
Model
bhuiya (Textile engineer)
: R-364
Manufacturer
: Rapid
Manufacturing year:
2003.

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

DRYER
This machine performs drying of ample fabric right after dyeing by the sample dyer .Fabric is
dyed at a temperature of 120-130 degree.

Machine name
:
Dyeing Testing
Machine function : Sample Dyeing
Origin
: Taiwan
Model
: SD-16P
Manufacturer
: Smart Dry
Capacity
: 16 pots
No of Machine
:2
Manufacturing year : 2003.

SAMPLE DYEING MACHINE

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Mosannef hossain bhuiya

Machine name
:
Rota Wash
Machine function : Fastness to Washing
Origin
: England
Model
: M228A
Manufacturer
: SDL ATLAS
Manufacturing year:
2003.

Rota Wash
The M228 Rota wash wheel is suitable for color fastness testing according to many standards
and methods, including ISO, AATCC, IWSTM, Marks and Spencer and Next.
The unit uses water as the heating medium and can be used in different configurations of pot
numbers and capacities. If 1200ml pots are purchased, an adaptor is supplied to enable these
to be fitted to the carrier.
For testing color fastness to wash fabric is kept for 30 min at temperature of 60 degree along
with malty fiber. Time, temperature and cooling system is automatic.

Machine name

Dyeing Testing (High


Temperature)
Machine function : Sample Dyeing
Origin
: Hong Kong
Model
: SDM2-12-140
Manufacturer
: FONGS
Manufacturing year :
2003.
:

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SAMPLE DYEING
It is also a sample dyeing machine but with less capacity. It has got 12 pots. It also used for
fastness test and it has an automatic cooling and heating.

Machine name
:
Padding Mangle
Machine function : Pigment Dyeing
Origin
: India
Model
: PM
Manufacturing year :
2002.

PADDING MANGLE
This is also a sample dyeing machine for pigment dyeing. The fabric is first dipped into the
dyeing solution and then padded through the rollers. After that the fabric is dried. Temperature
120-130 degree and time is 2 min.

Machine name
: Observer
Machine function : Light Source for observation
Model
: CAC 60
Manufacturer
: Verivide
This observer is placed at a dark room. It consists of for\ur light source and these are
1. D65
2. TL84
3. F
4. UV
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Here D65 is always used for color matching. Sometimes buyer demands a match by the TL84
also. So D65 and TL84 are used. Here white shades are observed by UV light.
Normally in SKL metamerism is not seen. In case of samples with combination colors,
metamerism is observed but single shades are free from this problem. Sometimes metemarism
is observed due to the position variation of the two fabrics.

Machine name
Machine function
Origin
Model
Manufacturer
Manufacturing year

Crock Meter
: Fastness to Rubbing
: England
: M238AA
: SDL ATLAS
:
2002.
:

Crock meter
The AATCC Crock meter is the official instrument of the American Association of Textile
Chemists and Colorists. The Crock meter tests the transference of color from the surface of
one material to another by either wet or dry rubbing. Test conditions are controlled and
reproducible through the use of standard pressure and motion.
1. The rubbing arm is attached to the hook.
2. Center a piece of abrasive paper, abrasive side up, on the base of the Crock meter.
The papers long dimension should be in the direction of the rubbing.
3. The specimen is placed flat and face-up on the abrasive paper. The specimens long
dimension should be in the direction of the rubbing.
4. A piece of test cloth is centered over the finger so that the weave is parallel with the

direction of rubbing. Wrap the sides of the cloth evenly around the finger, making sure
the cloth is smooth and taut over the fingers rubbing area.
5. The covered finger is then lowered onto the test specimen.

6. The cycle counter is reset.

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7. The handle is turned at the rate
of one turn per second for ten times. (Each back and forth motion of the arm equals
one stroke and at a speed of 1 stroke/second.)
8. After 10 strokes the specimen is removed and compared with the gray scale.
The acceptable range is normally 3.
SPECIAL FEATURES OF SAMPLE DYEING MACHINE:

It is contain 16 pots and 16 samples can be dyed at the same time.


Maximum 15 gm of sample can be dyed / pot.
Auto time and temperature control.
Speed controller unit.
IR heating system.
Good movement of liquor.

M/c maintenance: Wash by Cold acetic acid two or three times in a day.
PROCEDURE OF LAB DIP:
For 100% cotton fabric (all in method)

Fabric weight measured by electric balance.


Calculate the recipe.
Keep the fabric in the pot.
Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are
taken to the pot by pipe ting .
Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depend on
types of dyes being used.
Program 1: For light shade
Fixed temp. = 600c
Time
= 60 min.

Program 2: For dark shade


Fixed temp. = 800c
Time
= 60 min.
After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.
Acid wash for neutralization.
Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950c.
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Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard.

For Polyester/cotton blend fabric (all in method)

Fabric weight measured by electric balance.


Calculate the recipe for polyester part.
Keep the fabric in the pot.
Then required amount of dyes, water, dispersing agent, acetic acid and
sodium acetate are taken to the pot by pipetting.
Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature are carried
out for 30 min. at 1300c.
After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.
Then reduction clearing by hydrose, caustic & detergent for
20 min at 700c.
Cold wash then drying and match with the standard sample.
Again,

Calculate the recipe for cotton part.


Keep the fabric in the pot.
Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are
taken to the pot by pipetting .
Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depends on
what types of dyes are being used.
Program 1:
Fixed temp. = 600c
Time
= 60 min.
Program 2 :
Fixed temp. = 800c
Time
= 60 min.
Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950c.
Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard sample.
RANGE OF SALT AND SODA ACCORDING TO THE SHADE %:
Shade %

Crystal salt ( g/L)

Soda ash ( g/L )

0- 0.1
0.1 0.5
0.5 1
12
23
3-4
4-5
5-6

20
30
40
50
60
70
80
100

10
15
20
20
20
20
20
25

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QUALITY CONTROL STANDARD VALUES:

Wash fastness test by ROTAWASH:


Standard value:

For color change, grey scale = 4.5


For color staining, grey scale = 4.5

Rubbing fastness test by Crocking meter.


Standard value:

For dry fabric staining value, grey scale = 4.5


For wet fabric staining value, grey scale = 4

G.S.M test:
At first, Cut the fabric by G.S.M cutter and then it is weighted by electric balance.

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Inventory
Inventory is stock or store of good. Inventory management is a vital part for any factory
because smooth production as well as cost of storage depends on it.
SCOPE OF INVENTORY CONTROL:
-

Raw materials inventories


In process inventories
Finished good inventories
Maintenance, repair and operational inventories
Miscellaneous inventories

FUNCTION OF INVENTORY:
-

To smooth production requirement


To meet anticipate demand
To protect against stock outs
To take advantages of order cycles
To take advantages of quality discounts

PROCUREMENT SYSTEM:
`
Dyes (mostly used like Dyechufix, Remazol, Levafix dyes) and chemicals (regular
items like Sequestering agent, Anti creasing agent, Caustic, Stabilizer etc.) are
imported from CHINA, GERMANY & INDIA.
Some dyes (from Clarient) and chemicals (from BASF) are collected by direct
purchase through indent.
Crystal salt and Soda ash is purchase from local distributor.
INVENTORY STORE SYSTEM FOR RAW MATERIAL:
In SKL LTD, there are different inventory systems for different raw materials.
Grey Fabric Store:
All the grey fabrics are stored in the fabric store near the batch section. Different types of
fabric are listed in the sheet according to fabric types, quantity and consumers requirement.
Dyes and Chemicals store:
There is a different store for dyes and chemicals. Varies types of dyes and chemicals are
stored here according to dyes and chemicals companies. Different types of dyes and chemicals
are listed in a sheet. In the sheet the stored quantity of dyes and chemicals are also included.
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Every day the sheet is updated and a copy of this sheet is supplied to the dyeing manager, dye
house and lab section.
Finished goods store:
In SKL supplies its finished dyed fabrics to its garments section. So, dyed finished
fabrics are stored for short time in the finishing section. All the delivered fabrics are noted on
the tally khata according to the lot no, quantity, fabrics diameter, buyer's name, color &
considering other technical parameters.
Spares part store:
In SKL required amount of spares of different machines are stored in the mechanical
store room. All the spares are listed in a sheet which is controlled by the mechanical &
maintenance personnel. Spares are arranged in the store room according to there size, quantity
& requirements. There are shelves in the store room to keep the small spare parts.
STORE CAPACITY:
Items
Dyes
Chemicals
Yarn storage
Grey fabric
Finished fabric

Amount
7-8 tons
30-35 tons
300 tons
120 tons
200 tons

FREQUENCY OF INVENTORY CONTROL:


-

Daily inventory control


Monthly inventory control
Yearly inventory control

RE-ORDER POINT:
The re-order point is stated in terms of level of inventory at which an order should be placed
for replenishing the current stock of inventory. Re order quantity depends on the lead time of
the product with some additional safety period. It also depends on the store capacity of
factory. For example if the lead time of a product is two month then normally re ordering
quantity may be for two and half months.
REMARKS:
SKL has individual stores for raw materials, finished goods, etc. There is not enough
space to store the finished goods. It requires increasing the store area. In SKL the store for
inventory control is satisfactory. Sometimes, they fluctuate from ideal process otherwise they
are okay.
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PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL

BASIC PROCEDURE OF PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL:


A planned work brings success. With out planning nothing is complete within the required
time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable. Planning gives a scheduled
task and control completes it successfully. But production planning and control is not an easy
task. Its basic working procedure is as follows

Taking order from marketing division.


Analyzing the orders.
Planning for knitting the fabric.
Planning for dyeing the fabric.
Planning for finishing the fabric.

It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order. Sometimes the order
is placed only for finishing the materials or only for dyeing the goods. Then some steps are
minimizing for planning.

Taking order from marketing division:

Marketing division supplied fabric orders to the planning and control division by a
specific format.

Analyzing the orders:

After getting the fabric order, this section analyzes the orders according to buyers order
quantity, type of orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.), delivery date etc. This
section plans for required quantity of fabric to be knitted (order quantity + 10% of the
order quantity), knitting balance, fabric to be dyed, dyeing balance, RFD (ready for
delivery), RFD balance, delivery fabric & delivery balance etc.

Planning for knitting:

This section plans for knitting production. It selects m/c for knitting the fabric, no of m/c
to be used, type of yarn used, from which source yarn will be collected, required GSM,
width etc. It also gives delivery date of knitted fabric.

Planning for dyeing the fabric:

Production planning for dyeing is called Batch plan. Batch plan is prepared according to
the batch no, fabric construction, color, width, GSM and priority of delivery etc and
written in a batch card.
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Planning for finishing the fabric:

Finishing schedule are same as the dyeing. After dyeing, materials go to the finishing
section with the batch plan. Finishing data is written to the batch card and is informed to
the planning section. However, this section always forces to all the departments to finish
all the work within the delivery time given by the buyers. Thus, it plays a very important
role in the success of the company.

COST ANALYSIS

COSTING OF THE PRODUCT:


Costing system mainly describe how the cost of the final product is fixed by the company or
top managements. As it is a garments manufacturing factory, so according to the buyer or
customer requirements of final garments, merchandiser give the consumption of the fabric
with specifications. Then it is calculated how much dyestuffs & chemicals are required for
processing. After that, the final cost is fixed including some profit. Then the unit price is
offered to the buyer for their approval.
COSTING OF A PRODUCT INCLUDES:
Yarn cost
Knitting cost
Dyes & chemicals cost
Cost of dyeing
Cost of finishing
Cost of cutting ,sewing, accessories etc
Cost of printing (If any)
Labor cost (direct & indirect)
Factory cost
Office & administrative cost
Sales and caring cost
Others cost
Profit, etc.
REMARKS:
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The costing of the product is most secret matter of the industry. They are not
interested to flash the cost related data. So we could not collect the price of the product.

UTILITY SEVICE
UTILITY SERVICES
SKL is a big project. So, it required adequate utility services without the factory cant run.
Here the following utility services are available-

Water
Electricity
Steam
Gas
Compress air

WATER:

WATER TREATMENT PLANT


Water Treatment Plant for Sinha knitting Ltd. is illustrated below. Here for knit wet
processing SKL is like to use clarified water generally and soft water for the case of critical
shade.

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The plant processes 200 cubic meters per hour. The chief source of water is the surface water.
By using various pump and pipe arrangement surface water is carrying to the WTP. Water is
collected at 10 ft depth from the surface. First of all 5 ppm of hypochlorite per cubic meter is
added to the water raw water then 60 to 150 ppm of ferrous sulphate and 0.1 ppm of
polyelectrolyte is added to per cubic meter of raw water.
The water flow direction is clear at the picture. Here water flow through the first hollow
cylinder and moves under the cylinder then it passes through the second to third by means of
over flow. A few sludge is sediment at second cylinder and a lot of sludge is sediment at the
third. From third cylinder water is passing to the filter chamber is also followed by the over
flow of water. At the second cylinder water stayed for a little time as its volume is poor
enough than the third thats why few sludge is estimated over there. In filtration chamber
water is kept for a long duration like 22 hours which is allowed to sediment a lot of sludge
remaining in the treated water. At the out late of filtration chamber there is a stone filtration
and fabric filtration system has applied. After filtration chamber water is kept at collection
tank. This water is clarified water. It is directly used for knit dyeing. And for boiler and woven
dyeing water is allowed to pass through a carbon screening chamber and a softener. For water
softening geolyte is used that means sodium permutit.

STANDERD WATER QUALITY FOR DYE HOUSE:

Parameter

Permissible concentration

Color

Color less

Smell

No bed smell

Water Hardness

<5 ppm

PH value

7-8 (Neutral)

Dissolve solid

< 1 ppm

Inorganic salt

< 500 ppm

Iron(Fe)

< 0.1 ppm

Manganese(Mn)

< 0.01 ppm

Copper (Cu)

<0.005 ppm

Nitrate(NO3)

< 50 ppm

Nitrate(NO2)

< 5 ppm

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ELECTRICITY:
In SKL there are 6 generators for electricity supply and they supply current through bus bars
to different sections.
TYPES OF
MODEL MANF.NO BRAND
RATING(KW ORIGIN
MACHINE
NO
)
Generator -01 G3412 7DB0094 CATERPILLA 380
USA
4
R
Generator G3412 7DB0114 CATERPILLA 390
USA
02
0
R
Generator G3412 AFE00362 CATERPILLA 360
USA
03
R
Generator-04 G3412 5NA1100 CATERPILLA 360
USA
7
R
Generator-05 G3412 5NA0959 CATERPILLA 385
USA
3
R
Generator D3412 5NA0957 CATERPILLA 360
USA
06
5
R
Generator D3406 5N18CATERPILLA 166
USA
06
458H461 R
0
Total
2401

GENERATORS

Boiler:
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The equipment used for producing steam is called steam generator or boiler. The boiler used
for producing steam is a fire tube type boiler. Fire tube type is mainly used in small plant
requiring small quantity of steam and where floor area is limited.
Here, gas is fed to the burner which run by thermo motor and produce flame. The flame
produces hot flue gases, which pass through the tubes that are surrounded by water. This
water is supplied from the soft water tank to the feed water tank, which is situated above the
boiler. The heat energy of the flue gas is transfer to water which is converted into steam. This
steam is supplied to the whole plant. The spent gases are then discharged to the atmosphere
through chimney.
TYPES
MODEL
MANF.NO.
OF
NO.
MACHINE
Boiler-01 RFB
80A/10.45/E/
80A/10.54/ 2-96
E
Boiler-02 80A/10.54/
7

BOILERS
Compress air:
In the compressor section following machines are used

Mosannef hossain bhuiya (Textile engineer) 79

MANF.

ORIGIN CAPACIT
Y
(KG/DAY)
THERMA INDIA 8000
X
THERMA INDIA 8000
X

Mosannef hossain bhuiya

TYPES OF
MACHINE

MODEL NO. MANF.NO.

Compressor GA 55VSD
Compressor GA 55VSD
Compressor GA 55VSD
Compressor GA 55VSD
Air dryer

FD 245A

Air dryer

FD 260

MANF.

API-572545 ATLASCOPC
O
API-573595 ATLASCOPC
O
API573596 ATLASCOPC
O
API574726 ATLASCOPC
O
CAQ 258835 ATLASCOPC
O
CAQ 124083 ATLASCOPC
O

ORIGIN

CAPACIT
Y
(Ltr/sec)

BELGIUM

171.7

BELGIUM

171.7

BELGIUM

171.7

BELGIUM

171.7

BELGIUM
BELGIUM

260

COMPRESSORS
Gas:
SKL uses natural gas from Titas Gas Transmission Company. Gas is used as the fuel of Boiler,
Generator and also used for heating dryer, Stenter and compactor m/cs etc.

EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT


Effluent treatment plant of Sinha Textile group is based on combined method, ie biological
and physicochemical treatment is accomplished together. This plant can treat 350 cubic
meter of raw effluent per hour. The raw character of this plant is described below,

Basic characteristics of raw effluent


Sl
NO

CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS

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PARAMETERS
1.
2.
3.
4.

pH
Suspended solids
Biological Oxygen Demand(BOD)
Chemical Oxygen Demand(COD)

UNIT

AMOUNT

mg/L
mg/L
mg/L

11.8
378.8
416
850

PHYSICAL CHARECTERISTICS
5.
6.
7.

Color
Odour
Temperature

Brown to black
Not distinct
40

First of all raw effluent is allowed to pass through the screening chamber. Here the filtration
system to separate the suspended solids. Then it is allowed to keep in collection tank for 1 hrs
and then to the equalization tank for 12 hrs. Here effluent is mixed properly. After the
equalization tank effluent is followed to treat at flocculation chamber for 2 hrs. Here 1.66 ppm
of ferrous sulPhate solution, 0.5 ppm of lime solution and 0.0016 ppm (1.6 gm / L) of poly
electrolyte solutions are prepared to react with effluent solution. These solutions are flowed to
effluent continuously. After the flocculation chamber treated effluents are allowed to sediment
the sludge. Effluent without sludge is passed by over flow and the sludge is separated by
pumping action described in picture. This chamber is known as clarification-1. Then the
effluent is followed to the FAB-1 & FAB-2 here the biological action is going on. There are
bio reactors (is a plastic residence for bacteria) those are used to keep bacteria. FAB means
fluidus attached bed. And here the aeration is carried on by means of blower diffuser
arrangement. After this chamber

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Mosannef hossain bhuiya

there are another clarifier used to sediment sludge. All the sludge goes to central sludge tank
where centrifugal action is applied for de-watering sludge. And the sludge is kept in bag to
sludge store. Treated water from second clarifier is directly discharged to the river finally.

COMPLIENCE
Sinha Textile group is maintaining a lot of compliance issues since its starting. There is a
hospital inside factory. Also there are schools, collage and quarters for all kinds of employee.
For fire issue there is a fire brigade truck and a fire team is employed. There is an ambulance
per 6 units. To control fire problems there is a dry powder spray cylinder after every 15 meters
in floor. There is a day care centre for ladies operators. In salary they are paying ceremony
bonuses, health bonuses and a lot. In one word it can be an ideal compliance industry.
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Mosannef hossain bhuiya


To inspire students they facilitate different training programs for the students. It is not only
facilitating for the student of textile faculty but also for the Electrical, Mechanical, Business
and chemistry faculty.

CONCLUSION
Industrial training is an important and essential part of education as through this training we
learn all the implementations of the processes which we have studied theoretically. It gives us
an opportunity to compare the theoretical knowledge with practical facts and thus develop our
knowledge and skills. This industrial training also gives us an opportunity to enlarge our
knowledge of textile administration, production planning, procurement system, production
process, and machineries and teach us to adjust with the industrial life.
I have found myself fortunate to have my industrial training at SKL. It has a huge production
capacity with a very efficient production team. SKL has a very good, well equipped and
modern laboratories and producing a wide range of color. During my training period I have
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Mosannef hossain bhuiya


noticed that SKL is very concern about their quality and they rarely have any quality
complain. The management of SKL is very organized, pre-active and co-operative.
At the end of the day I realized that industrial training make my knowledges application
practically and make me confident to face any problem of my job sector.

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