Hiram Bingham III, “The Discovery of Machu Picchu.” /n Richard L. Burger and Lucy C. Salazar, eds., Machu Picchu: Unveiling the Mystery of the Incas, pp. 7-18. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2004. Hiram Bingham is usually thought to be the modem discoverer of Machu Picchu. In this essay, originally written in 1913, he reflects back on his visit to the site in 1911. Although modern scholars no longer accept Bingham’s interpretation of the function of Machu Picchu, they agree that is an interesting and important example of Inca architecture, justly deserving of its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Bingham’s essay will give you some background for Course 7, Who Built Machu Picchu and Why?Il The Discovery of Machu Picchu Hiram Bingham IL One. chief problems that faced the Yale Peruvian Expedition of ign was the question 3 to whether the young Inca Manco, fleeing from Pizarro's armies and establishing himself inthe wilds of Vie bamba, had left ang tracesin the shape of ruined palaces and temples, $0 we went about asking every one ifthey knew of any such, twas known to a few people in Cuzco, chiefly resi: dents of the province of Convencion, that there were ruins, still undescribed, in the valley ofthe Urubamba (Figure 21), One friend told us that muleteer had told him of some ruins neat the bridge of San Miguel Knossing the propensity of his countrymen to exaguer- ate, he placed little confidence in the report, and had passed by the place a score of times without taking the trouble to Took into the matter. Another friend, who ‘owned a sugar plantation onthe river Vileabamba, said he also had heard vague tumorsof ruins. He was quite sure there were some near Pacyura. although he had been there and had never seen any: At length a talkative old peddler said there were nains “finer than Chogque- Note: Thisaticl rina appeared in Harpers Monte ag ine. vol 17.1913. PP. 709-1. {quirau” down the valley somewhere, But as he had never been to Chogguequirau, and na one placed any ‘confidence in his word anshow, we could only hope there was some cause for his enthusiasm, Finally; there was the tory in Wiener’ picturesque but unreliable Pérou et Bolive that when he was in Ollantaytambo in 1875, oF thereabouts, he as told there were interesting ruins down the Urubamba Valley at “Huaina-Piechu, or Matcho Picchu” (sic), Wiener decided to g0 down the ‘alley an look for them, but, owing to one reason or another, he failed to find them, Should we be any snore sucessful? We left Cuzco about the middle ofl, The second day out brought usto the romantic valley of llantay- tambo (Figure 2.2). Squier described itin glowing terms searsago, and it has lest none ats charm. The wonder fal megaliths of the ancient fortress, the curious gabled buildings perched her ble crags, the magnificent andenes (terraces), where ind there on almost inaccessi- abundant crops ae sill harvested, will stand for ages to ss monuments tothe energy and skill of a bygone con race (Figure 23). Ibis now quite generally believed that the smaller buildings, cronded with niches, and made cofsmal stones lid in clay and covered witha kind ofHiram Bingham IHL 22 View across the wheat fields to the mountains north of Yucay. stucco, were the work of the Incas and thei subjects On the other hand, the gigantic rocks so carefully fied together to form the defenses ofthe fortes itsll proba blvantedated the Incas, and, lke the eyelopean walls of the Sacsahuaman fortress neat Cuzco, were putin posi tion by a pre-Inca or megalithie folk who may have built Tiahwanaco in Bolivia Atal events, both Cuzco and Ollantaytambo have the advantage of being the sites ofa verrancient civiliza tion, now shrouded in romance and mystery. The eli- mate and altitude 1,000 fet) of Cuzco deprive it of lovely surroundings, but here at Tambo, asthe natives call it, there is eversthing to please the eye, from Tightly cultivated green fields, flower-gardens, and brooks shaded by willows and poplars to magnificent precipices, crowned by glaciers 1 snomeapped peaks Surely this deseres to bea place of pilgrimage, After day or tof rest and hard scrambles over the Clif tothe various groups of ruins, we went down the Unb fortress the road forks.‘The right branch ascendsa steep nba Valley to the northwest. A league from the valley and crosses. a snow-covered pass neat the little- known and relatively unizmportant eins of Havaspampa and Panticalla Tso leagues beyond the for, the Urubamba River has cut its was through precipitous Clif. This isthe natural gateway to the ancient province ‘oF Vileabamba, For centuries it was virtually closed by the combined efforts of Natnre and man, The danger- cous rapid ofthe river were impassable, but the precipices on the north side might with considerable el fott be scaled. In fact, the old road into the province ap. parently lay over theirdizzy heights, Accordingly man, vad built atthe foot of the precipices a small but power ful fortress, Salapunco, fashioned after Sacsahuamnan, but with only five salients anid re-ent ntangles. The lifftself was strengthened defensively by walls, kill fully built on narrow ledges. Salaprneo has Tong been unoccupied. My fist in Dian lley from enemies coming tp from the pression was that it was placed here to defend taytambo V Amazon valleys. Later I came to the conclusion that it was intended to defend against enemies coming downthe valley hom Olfantaytambo, Ava monolithie work of this kind could notin the nature of things have been builtby the Inca Manco when fleeing from the Spaniards, and as its whole style and character seen to place it alongside the well-known monolithic structures of the region about Cuzco and Ollantaytambo, it seemed al he more extraordinary that it should have been placed as.adefense against that very region. Could ite that itwas built by the megalithic folk in order to fend a possible retreat in Vileabamba? Hitherto no ‘one had found or reported any megalithic remains far- ther down the valley than this spot. Infact, Squier, whose Peru has fora generation been the standard work ‘on Inca architecture, does not appear to have heard ‘even of Salapunco, and Markham makes no mention of it never occurred tous that in hunting for the re mains of such paces as Manco Inea had the stength and time to build we were about to find remains ofa far more remote past mins that would explain why the fortress of Salapunco was placed to defend Vileabamba against the south, and not the south against Vileabamba and the savages of the Amazon jungles Passing Salapunco, we skirted the precipices and en- tered a most interesting region, where we were contin ally charmed by the extent af the ancient terraces, the length of the great andenes, the grandeur of the snow clad leys The next day we continued down the valley for an- other twenty miles. And such a valley! While neither so intains,and the beauty of the deep, narrow val- grand asthe Apurimac, near Choqguequitau, nor so ex. uisiteas the more highly cultivated valleys ofthe Alps, the grand canon, ofthe Unibamba fiom Torontoy to Collpani,a distance of about thirty miles, has few equals 23 Ollantaytambo, Panoramic view showing the ancient fortress and terraces.Hiram Binghare I in the work, Itlacks the rugged, massive severity of the Canadian Rockies and the romantie associations ofthe Rhine, but | know of no place that ean compare with it inthe variety and extent ofits chan, Not only has it snio»-cupped peaks, gigantic precipices of slid granite rising abmuptly thousands of fet from is roaring stream, and the usual great beauty ofa deep canon winding i but there isadded to thisthe mystery ofthe dense topical through mountains of almost ineredible hei jungle and the romance of the ever-present remains of a bygone race [ewould make a dul story, fall ofrepetition and s perlatives, were Ito hy to deseribe the countless tet races, the towering cliff, the constantly changing panoraina, with the jungle inthe foreground and glac «in the lofty background. Even the so-called road got 24 Plemts growing on the side ofa lif ct San Miguel 0 «bit monotonous, although itran recklessly up and dlown rock stairways, sometimes cut out ofthe side of the precipice, at others running on frail bridges propped om brackets against the granite cliffs overhanging the swirling rapids (Figure 2.4), We made stow progress, but we lived in wonderland With what exquisite pains did the Incas, or their pre- decessors,resene narrow strips of arable land from the river! Here the prehistoric people builta retaining wall of great stones along the very edge ofthe rapids. There they piled terrace on andene until stopped by a solid wall ofrock, On this sightly bend inthe river, where thete is particularly fine view up and down the valle they placed a temple flanked bya great stone stairway On that apparently insurmountable cif they bul un. sealable walls, so that it should be actualy, as well as seemingly, impregnable. They planted the lower levels, with bananasand coca, and also yucca, that strange lit tle tree whose roots make such a sticculent vegetable On the more lofty terraces they grew maize and pota toes. Inthe afternoon we passed a hut called La Maguina, where travelers frequently sop forthe night (Figur There is some fodder here, but the density of the tropi cal forest, the steepness of the mountains, and the scarcity of anything like level land rmake living very pre- carious. We arrived at Mandor Pampa, another grass thatched hut, about five o'clock. ‘The scenery and the road were more interesting than anything we had seen so far, or were likely to see again, Our camp was pitched ina secluded spat on the edge of he river (Figure 2.6) artasco, the sergeant sent with me from Cuzco, talked with a muleteer who lives near by a fellow named Melchor Arteaga, who leases the land where we were camping, He said there were ins in the vicinity, and some excellent ones ata place called! Mach Picci on top ofthe precipice near by, and tha there were also riinsat Fluayna Picchu, tll more inaecesible, on top ofa peak not far distant from our earn. The next da, although it was drizzling, the promise ‘of.1s0 (fifty cents gold) tobe paid to him on our return from the tuins, encouraged Arteaga to guide me upto Macha Picchu. Heft camp atbout te o'clock, and ‘went fom his house some distance upstream, The va levis very narrow, with almost sheer preipices of solidgranite on each side, On the road we passed a snake that hhad recently been killed, Arteaga was unable to g other name for it than “vvora,” which means ven- omou in distinction from “eulebra,” or harmless snake Our naturalist spent the day in the bottom of the valk le, collecting insets; the surgeon busied himself in anid about camp and Iwas accompanied on this excur sion only by Carrasco and the guide, Arteaga. Atten s 28 CampatMandor Pampa. forty-five, after having left the road and plunged down through the jungle to the riverbank, we came toa prim= itive bridge, made of four logs bound together with vines, and stretching across the stream a few inches above the roaring rapids (Figure 27}. On the other vide we had a fearfully hard climb for an hour and twenty ‘minutes. A good part of the distance L went on all-fours The path was in many places a primitive stairway, oF | iHiram Binghayn IHL 2.7 Ourguide Arteaga crossing the bridge over the Urubamba River. crude stepladder, at first through a jungle, and later upa \ery steep, grass-covered slope. The heat was excessive, but the view was magnificent after we got above the jun ale. Shortly afer noose reached a hut where several good-natured Indians welcomed us and gave us gourds full of cool, delicious water, and afew cooked sweet potatoes. All that we could see wasa couple of smal grass huts and afew terraces, faced with stone walls. The pleasant Indian family had chosen this eagle's nest fora hhome. They told us there were better rains. little far theralong, One can never tell, in this country, whether such are- port is worthy of eredence. “He may have been Iying” is 1 good footnote to affix toall hearsay evidence. Aecord- ingly we were not unduly excited, Nor was Lin a great hurry to move.’The water was cool, the wooden bench, covered with a woolen poncho, seemed most comfort able, and the view was marvelous. On both sides tremendous precipices fll away tothe white rapids of the Urubamba River below. In front was the solitary peak of Hiuayna Picchn, see sides. Behind us were rocky heights and impassable ingly inaccessible on all 2 cliffs, Down the face of one precipice the Indians had tmade a perilous path, which was their only means of ‘egress in tte wel season, when the bridge aver which we hhad come would be washed away. Of the other precipice we had already had a taste, We were not sur= prised to hear the Indians say they only went away from home about once a month Leaving the huts, we climbed still farther up the ridge, Around a slight promontory the character of the faced andenes began to improve, and suddenly we found ourselves in the midst ofa jungle-covered maze of small and large walls, the ruins of buildings made of blocks of white granite, most carefully cut and beaut fully fitted together without cement. Surprise flowed surprise until there came the realization that we were in the midst of as wonderful ruins a any ever found in Peru (Figure 28). It seemed al City, oly ive days’ jonmey from Cuzco, should have re- ‘mained so long undescribed and comparatively n= wst incredible that this now. Yetsofaras Ihave been able to discover, there is no reference in the Spanish chronicles to Machu Pic. chu. Its possible that not even the conquistadors ever‘a this wonderful place, Frou some ride sera on the stones ofa temple we learned that it as visited i agos by one Lizareagat local mueteer. Bans ave been known long before that, because, as we said above, Wiener, who was in Ollantastambo in the 70, speaks cofhavingh cli chich he did not find 1 of ins ata place named “Matcho Pic DIscovERY oF MACHU PICCHU 28 One ofthe first photographs taken of Machu Picchu, July 24.1811. The Indians living here say tha they have been here four years. They have planted com and vegetables “among the tans anxl on some ofthe terraces, One or two families live in ancient buildings on which they have buill roof. There are also three huts of recent con struction. The climate seems to be excellent, We no- ticed growing sweet and white potatoes, maize, sugar 13Hiram Bingham UH 29 Window ofthe semicircular building. cane, beans, peppers, tomatoes, and kind of goose berry Traveler like the great ‘Wiener, and the picturesque Marcou, who have gone north from Cuzco to the Urubamba River and beyond, hd to avoid this region, where they would have found x1 is not nacigable, even for canoes at this point and is anked by such steep wall that travel along its banks was impossible until few years ago. Fxen wstelnau, the flowery most of interest The Unubam epid explorers like Castelnan. were obliged to make a long detontr and to follow a trail that led over snowy passes into the parallel valleys of the Occobamba and the Yanatili. Thus it happened thatthe Unabamba Valley from Oflantaytambo to the sugar “ plantation of Hadguifa offered usa virgin field, and by the same token it asin this very region thatthe Ineas and their predecessors found it eas olive in safety: Not ‘only did they find here every variety ofelimate, valleys so deep as to produce the precious coca, yucca, and plantain ofthe tropies, and slopes high enongh to be suitable for maize and potatoes, with nights cold enough to freeze the later in the approved aboriginal fashion, but also a practically impregnable place of refine About twenty years ago the Peravian gov ‘ognizing the needs ofthe enterprising planters who ‘were opening up the lower valley ofthe Unubamba, de- cided to construct mule trail along the banks to the river. The road was expensive, butt has enabled the muich-desired coca and aguardiente tobe shipped far ore quicklyand chea ply than from the Santa Ana Vale Jey to Cuzco, and it avoids the ne ssily of climbing over the dangerous snowy passes so vividly described by Marcon and others."This new road enabled us to dis- cover thatthe Incas —and their predecessors —had left here, in the beautiful witnesses oftheir ane! tnesses of Vileabarmba, stone nt civilization more interesting and extensive than any found since the days of the con ‘quistadors Its difficult to deseribe Machu Picchu The re located om a ridge which ends in a magnificent peak, on top of whieh are said to be the ruins of Huay Picchu, There ate precipices on both sides, and a large ‘number of terraces, evidently intended for agricultnal purposes There are also azequias (stonectined water- courses} although itis at present somewhat difficult to see whence the water was brought. There are three small springs here, but the Indians do not know of any rninning water, As it must have taken a considerable wa ter supply to urish water to the inhabitants of such a large place as Machu Picchu. it maybe that an irrgat ing ditch was cattied back into the mountains for many niles to some point from which an unfailing supply of water could be secured ‘There isa very nicely made bathhouse, a fountain with some niches, and an adjoining retiingtoom with a seat The water was conducted into the bathhouse through a ston anne overs nicely eut stone block (On top ofa gigantic granite boulder near the bathhouse isasemicirculae building, made of nearly rectangular2.10 The three-sided building later called the Principal or Main Temple. blocks, and containing nicely finished niches on the in side (Figure 2.9). Underneath the boulder isa cave lined with carefully worked stone and containing very large niches, the best and tallest that I have ever seen. There are many stairways made of blocks of granite ‘One stairway is divided so as to permit the insertion of catelbasin for water, This stairway leads toa point fa ther up the ridge, where there isa place which I have called the Sacred Plaza. On the south side ofthis plaza there are tertaces lined with large blocks, after the fashion of Saesabuaman, and also.a kind of bastion, semiciscular, with carefally cut, nreatly rectangular stones, somewhat lke those in the well-known semiciteular Temple of the Sun, now the Dominican Monastery, at Cuzco. On the eastside of the Sacred Plaza are the walls of a rectangular bnilding, fiventysnine feet long by thisty-seven wide, containing, niches and projecting eylinders resembling in many sways the buildings 1 Choqqurequirau, It has two doors con the side toward the plaza but no windows. (On the westside iva remarkable structure, tly ‘megalithie, entirely open on the side facing the Plaza, anid entirely closed on the other three sides (Figure ‘210}.'The interior measurements of this building are 35. x1 feet. Asin the ease ofall the other buildings, its roofs missing, Itis made of blocks of white granite srranged in tiers. The stones in the lower tierare very inch larger than those in any ofthe others. One block in the lower tier measures 9.6 feet in lengthy another, to. feet, third, 13,2 feet. As will be seen from the pho- tographs they are considerably higher than 3 about 2.8 feet thick, The uppert gular blocks, very nich sinaler. and fitted logethe ted toa bottle. The distinguishing characteristie of this sare of nearly rectam nat ent with indescrib= able aceurac ssa glass stopper is fit building i thatthe endsof the walls are not vertical, but project in an obtuse angle, Atthe pointof the angle the stone was ent avy, appasently to admit a large wooden, ‘beam, which probably extended across in front of the structure to the point of he angle atthe other end of the wall. This may have been used to support the roof, orto bring it down part way; like a mansard roof, This build- 1sHiram Bingham U0 , 46 fom inngis lined sith small niches. high mpabave reach, and rade with yreat cate and precision, hr the center ef the deack walf, andl near the geound, isthe largest stone of Tenth. tid app aM svhich measnres 14.1 fee tare heen either high seat or an altar. both sides: tothe north a onbled amass ef gigantic for 6 2.11 Pago of Bingham’s 1811 notebook ‘with the first map made of the ‘estclad inonntin, rising te sneom-eapped peaks and te ley, with the river the Sonth the widening Ulrabamba ¥ ‘winding Henig its botany, protected on bath sds by precipitous: mountains, On the highest partof the river isa small stracteee, carefully built oF rcofanigar blocks, ie niches, Near itis large boulder tone. sup. with nively is nan avan intilinatana2.12 Plan of Machu Picchu (published in original 1919 Harper's Monthly article. posed by somic to have been a sural thas steps carved in it and isin fine state of preservation. Dincetly below the Sacred Plaza the terraces rm dow to large horseshoe-shaped plaza, evidently an ancient playground, or possibly an agricultural iekd. On the other side of thisarea great many houses of lesser well built and huddled closely to- importance, thong igtliet. Many ofthe houses are simple in construction. Some have gabled ends. Nearly ll have niches. few are of remarkably fine workmanship, as fine as anything in Cuzco. The material used is nearly uniformly white serait. The finish is exquisite, and the blocks are fitted together with a nicety that surpasses deseription. The work isof the same character as that which so arowsed the manvel ofthe Spanish conquerors, Some of the siructures are nicely squared, like the palaces at Cuzco, Others have niches which resemble the best at Ollar tavtambo, Cylindrical stone blocks, projecting from the ‘wall, are common, both inside and ontside the struc hue. In general they are larger and very muck better fashioned than those at Chogentequiran. In places the ruins are almost labyrinthian, The plan gives. better idea than can be expressed in words of the extent and character of Machu Picebu (Figures. and On the north side of the Sacred Plaza is another structure, somewhat resembling that described as being fon the westside in thatthe side facing the plaza is en- tirely open. Outside ofthe building are cylindrical stones projecting fom the wall. Huge stones were em- ployed inthe lower tier, asin the similar building on the ‘vest side of the plaza, and their ends—that is to say, the tens of the side walls —are followed out in an obtuse at sl, asin the other structure, Similarly, the point of the angle contains hole cutinto the stone, evidently in tended to permit the admission ofa large wooden beam. In order to support this beam, which extended across from one end ofthe building to the other, a single block svas erected, hallway between the ends, and notched at the top, soas to permit the beam, or the ends of two beats if such were used, to rest upon it, This stractute hasan internal measurement of 14.9 33-7 fee. Its most striking feature i its ow of eemarkable windows (Figure 213). Three large windows, 3. feet wide and nearly 4 feet high, are let into the back wall, and Took out upon a ‘magnificent prospect over the jungle-clad mountains Nowhere else in Peru have I seen an ancient building ‘whose most noticeable characteristic is the presence of three lage windows. Can itbe that this unique feature will help us solve the riddle of this wonderful city of granite? Sir Clements Markham, in hisrecent and valuable book on the Incas of Pens, devatesa chapter toa myth 72.12 Plan of Machu Picchu (published in original 1919 Harper's Monthly article. posed by some to have been a sundial, H has steps carved init and isa fine state of preservation. Directlv below the Sacred Plaza the terraces nan hhorseshoe-shaped plaza, evidently an ancient playground, or possibly an agricultural field. On down tos kn the other side of this area great many houses of lesser importance, although yell built and huddled closely to gether. Many af the houses are simple in construetion. Some have gabled ends. Nearly all have niches. A few are of rematkably fine workmanship, as Bne as anything, in Cuzco, The material used is nearly union white granite. The finish is exquisite, and the blocks are fitted together with anicety that surpasses deseription. The work is ofthe same character as that whieh so aroused the mance of he Spanish conquerors. Some of the structuresare nicely squared, lke the palaces at Cuzco, Othershave niches which resemble the best at Olan tastambo. Cslindtical stone blocks, projecting from the wall ze comsnan, both inside and onside the strue ‘ure. In general they are larger and vere ch better fashioned than those at Choqqnequiran In places the ruinsare almost labyrinthian. ‘The plan gives a better idea than can be expressed in words of the extent and character of Machu Picchu (Figires 2. and 2.13, On the north side of the Sacted Plaza is another strcture, somesshatreserubling thal deseribed as being cn the west side in thatthe side facing the plaza isen- tirely open. Outside of the building are esindrical stones projecting from the wall Huge stones were em- ployed in the lowertier, asin the similar building on the west side ofthe plaza, and their ends —that ist sy; the cends ofthe side walls ~are followed out in an obtuse ane ele, asin the otherstractore, Similarly, the point of the angle contains a hole eut into the stone, evidently in- tended to permit the admission ofa harge woosien beam. Inorderto support this beam, which estended across from ane end ofthe building to the other, a single block was erected, halfavay between the ends, and notehed at the top, soso permit the beam, or the ends of two Iyeams if such were used, to rest pon itis structure hasan intemal measurement of 4.9 33-7 feet. Its most its tow of remarkable windows (Figure striking fate sas): Three large windows, 3.1 feet wide and nearly feet high, ate lt into the back wall, and look out upon a tmagnificent prospect over the junge-clad mountains. Nowhere else in Pert hace I seen an ancient building, sshose most noticeable characteristic is the presence of three large windows, Can it be that this tnigqre feature will help us sole the riddle ofthis wonderful ity of granite? ‘Sir Clements Markham, in his recent and valuable ook on the Ineas of Pera devotes chapter toa mth 7Hiram Bingham HL 2.18 Niches in one of the larger buildings. which was told tol the Spanish chroniclers by their native informants, which he believes isthe fabulous ver- sion of distant historical event. The end ofthe early inegalithic civilization is stated to have been caused by a «great invasion from the south, possibly by barbarians from the Argentine pampas, The whole country broke up into anarchy, and savagery returned, ushering in a period of medieval barbarism. A remnant ofthe highly Civilized folk took refuge ina district called ‘Tam: pulocco, where some remnants ofthe old civilization were protected fiom the invaders by the inaccessible character ofthe country. Here the fugitives maltiplied. ‘Their descendants were more civilized and more power- ful than theirneighbors, and in time became erowded, and started out lo aequire a better and more extensive tervitory. "The legend relates that out of hill with three ‘openings or windows there came three tribes, These wzco and founsled the Inca tribes eventually settled at ‘empire. ‘Eampu means “tavern,” and toco a “window "The Spaniards were told that Tamputoceo was not far from Cuzco, ata place called Paccaritampu, but the e- act locality of Tamputocen is uncertain, So far no place 1B answering to its description has been located. It seems to me that there isa possibilty the refuge ofthis presnea fugitive tribe was herein the Vileabamba mountains, and that Machn Piechu is the original Tamputocco, al though this is contrary tothe aecepted location. Certainly this region was well fitted by nature to be such a refuge; unguestionably here we have evidences cof megalithic occupation; and here at Machu Picchu is, “tavern” with three windows. A view taken ofthis Temple ofthe Three Windows from below makes it easy to suggest that this was the hill with the three openings ‘or windows referred to in the myth of the origin of the Ina empire. may be wholly mistaken in this, and L shall await wit that fitsso well the description of Tampuitocco, whence came the Ineas In the meantime it seems probable that Machu Pic- chu, discovered while on a search for the last nea caps tal, wasthe fis, the capital fiom which the Incas started 1 that glorious career of empite that eventually en braced large part of South America terest the discovery af any other place